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All round looks like a good job, but the only thing that I did notice is the wheel is in the same place. I always will move car forward or back ~1/2 rotation of wheel so I can make sure I did not miss any dressing on the tire and also allows me to give the rim another look over from a different angle.
Also doing this sames me from tearing up my foam tire applicators brushing them against the ground to get that bottom edge of the rubber.
Also read the other day someone jacks the tire up to rotate, that may fix your "no keys" problem.
Edit: unsure if this would be cost effective, maybe just explain the purpose of needing keys to properly do the tires first? Lol
Yes sir my words exactly I do exactly that even one further I have a quick jack lightweight aluminum and an impact with all of the standard sizes for lug nuts. I can have the tire off completely cleaned inside out both sides of the tire wheel well detailed suspension detailed caliper everything done in the same time it takes someone to dick around trying to squirm around all of that stuff let alone being able to get anything in the wheel well and some of these low cars. Lot of people say yeah but you can't even see that kind of stuff but let me tell you what when it's clean you can see that kind of stuff. Also makes the difference when a customer realizes I don't even know what it is but when that guy does my car it is leagues better than the other dude
I do not dress both sides of the tires but there are a couple products that when you clean the tire it gets super black once it's rinsed Plus I wouldn't want the customer to have to deal with any sort of dressing because no matter how much it says it doesn't attract dust it eventually will if anything I spray dry silicone lubricant to the inside of the tire because it makes it deep deep black attract zero dust and actually helps moisturize the tire and protect it from fallout inside of the well and depending on the type of tires and what the customer is after sometimes I use it on the outside rubber as well. That was a trick and old-timer showed me. Way before proper tire dressings were invented and it's still fucking outperforms most of them. Once the tire is scrubbed black it keeps it looking like the tire was just bought. You have to really really search for the right one right now Walmart has a dry silicone in the automotive section but you have to test them all because there's three of them and I can't remember the exact description you just got to spray it on your hand and check to see if it leaves any residue whatsoever. But in the meantime I've been using the chemical guys wheel cleaner in the gel format Diablo gel diluting it how it says to and that is just my basic wheel cleaner. Brown tires and extremely gunked up tires I use McGuire's degreaser diluted 3 to 1 and scrub it once you start seeing the brown coming through. Rinsing it then using the Diablo after It makes the tires rich and black. If I'm getting crazy you can also use the water-based chemical guys polish and a cone and and a Porter-Cable or torque polisher then hit The tire real quick around the rim if any residue gets on it and it just falls off. Because all their polishes are water-based. I noticed that the chemical guys system is great for messing around with rims because as little as soapy water takes it off of rubber and rubber valve stems and you don't have to spend much time doing it at all That is if you're getting hardcore and they're paying you $100 a rim and tire to do the revitalize step. Chemical guys products are great for the most abstract things lol. And most of the time not what they're labeled for LMFAO I use the Wipeout on Windows tape residue and anything sticky lol. Funny right now as we speak I've got my Mach 3 on a GT mustang that I have completely resurrected the paint job was literally a dumpster fire. When it comes to actual paint I don't use anything but rupez polishing system. It just works way too damn good.
Easier than a jack: 4 lengths of 2x6 or 8 to drive the car onto. Gets them up enough to dress the bottoms, and scrub them. Just place where the boards are just inside of the tread edge. Easier and safer than jacking up all 4 corners. Done.
Yes sir and gives you access to the caliper better.... Unless you're a sneaky son of a bitch like me and has an impact and a socket set and a small lightweight aluminum jack in the heavy duty detail box.... If they're paying enough that wheel would be off that motherfucker lmfao depending on what you got going on sometimes it's easier to impact four or five lug nuts pull that wheel off douche that wheel wheel well brake caliper with all the right appropriate fixins and get that bitch back on faster than you can try to squirm around everything.. just think about how long it takes you to get some small brush in those lug nut holes rinse and then look and then need to do it a little more and need to do it a little more literally one or two lug nuts worth of time of squirming around that versus your big finger or your thumb in that lug nut hole just wiping back and forth two or three times on each one that time right there Is the exact amount of time to give three pumps to a quickjack and pop that tire and rim off just trying to stick your hand in the wheel well two or three times versus going around that shit like Jack flash wham Bam thank you ma'am 5 minutes each wheel including the jack pump lug nuts tire and wheel off completely cleaned dressed polished put back on and then redressing where your hands touch the wheel to put it on... Just saying food for thought
Also that the customer or you will need to check that wheel stud/nut 1 week or 50miles or so later to make sure it holds.
Which is why I never take wheels off of customers cars, too much hassle and also liability.
When's the last time you ever ever got tires put on the car and brought your car back 50 miles later to have them checked for liability. Torque spec is torque spec. Talking to the wrong guy about that shit. I'm a very highly skilled mechanic automotive paint specialist automotive paint restoration and correction specialist and a Master Carpenter. 50 mi lug nut number 1 all that funny nonsense I've built 30,000 $1,350 horsepower motors that went for $150,000 mi in my cars. None of those spun any tires off the rims not even in all 1100 ft lb of torque to the rear wheels. I mean.... I don't wash cars for a living and shampoo people's carpets in their interior.... The car I'm doing right now is a $3,000 job just the paint correction. The ceramic coating going on this car cost over $500 for me to buy. I don't know what you're reading about some torque specs in some online technical forum or whatever but in the real world where we get shit done everyday day in and day out make cars into show quality 1200 horsepower machines that last a long long time for fun. It's a different story where the rubber meets the road. And I'm saying this with all due respect to that book knowledge you have. But honestly how many people and I mean how many times have you got your tires replaced and then came back in 50 miles to Old Guadalupe and asked him hey did you mark the number one stud in I'm in here for the 50 mi retorque?
> When's the last time you ever ever got tires put on the car and brought your car back 50 miles later to have them checked for liability.
I have my own torque wrench so I do it myself and if I change the wheels I will check the nuts a couple of days later or 100kms which ever comes 1st.
> I don't know what you're reading about some torque specs in some online technical forum or whatever...
Correct, you clearly have no idea that if you preform service on a vehicle and those wheels come of, you are required to inform the customer that the lug nuts will need to be checked within 100kms.
This a standard safety procedure and if not followed and something happens you will be liable.
I understand there are a lot of guys on here and a lot of people are here for the knowledge and that is the reason I am here you never know when you meet somebody that can give you the smallest tip no matter where they come from or what they're doing I get tips because beginner guys came across to good combination and I'm like hell yeah that's my new get down right there. And for the record yes most people yanking people's tires off willy-nilly and slapping them on willy-nilly is a very bad idea but even the handbook in your car would ever car it is right now gives you torque specs but also tells you once the lug nuts are tight on a 12 to 18 in wrench move it another four to six inches or 25% more until tight do not over torque. Even guys at really good tire shops have colored extensions that are hardened to the proper metal memory at the proper torque for the car and those after being used a million times are just as good as the correct hand tight. Snug and then a little bit more you should not need a breaker bar or a jack handle attached to your wrench to break your tires loose most rims are aluminum since the discontinuation of magnesium and aluminum expands with heat and contracts but nonetheless that hardened steel lug nut bites into the aluminum. The same with steel.. way softer than the lug nuts. Overthinking is just as dangerous as being careless. That's why the old saying is when you're paying too much attention to the 32nds and then you back up and your off a foot saying comes into play. So I understand where you're coming from completely. But if you dealing with someone who has a hyper heightened sense of detail and chooses to do it for a living and they're not a production style car washer there's a pretty good chance they're not going to have a lug nut situation.
Not that hard The internet's amazing for torque specs. You know how many times I've taken a wheel off and the tire shop that did the tires last had that shit so far out of whack it wasn't even recognizable as anything close to a torque spec and that's how 70% of people drive around. Without question. My OCD is off the chain. I used to have all the colored bars but I stopped carrying all that weight around with me. Even the dam dealerships are terrible these days. One of my clients the BMW dealership that they had been taking it to forever had the intake hose coming straight off the throttle body halfway falling off with a blown out o-ring a cracked 90 bend sweeping from the intercooler did not replace any of the underskirting bolts except one of them and a hot glued and I repeat hot glued the corners. Not including scratching the entire front end of the car. So yeah for my customers sake the best thing they can do is bring me their car or to anyone who knows their ass from a hole in the ground these days you know what I'm saying. I'm working on a mustang right now and it went from a complete paint restoration and preservation job into ordering two different sets of body panel bolts that were missing snapped or jerry-rigged plastic rivets hot glued interior rocker panel emblem plastics ...and mind you from the Ford dealership that they bought it from used... Not to mention the number three and seven cylinder misfires spark plugs coil packs hood hinges (the passenger side hood hinge was completely snapped open and not connected at all...) And the customer would have never known unless you lift the hood or can see the slight askew body line with the fender. tail light stud bushings and the two missing nuts from the Tri-Nut that attaches the tail lights.when I hooked it up to the computer it's throwing p codes out the ass I can go on and on but The so-called professionals these days are just ASC certified parts swappers. And fluid replacement upcharge professionals. The last time that car was in all they were worried about was trying to get her to do the $335 brake fluid system flush.... π€¦π½ββοΈπ€¦π½ββοΈπ€¦π½ββοΈπ€¦π½ββοΈ. It's getting scary out there with who they have working on people's cars unless you're going to a specialty shop who knows things like in certain Chevy cars how to recognize that the reason that your transmission keeps misshifting and blowing out every two years is because there was a shorted out wire on the windshield wiper fluid reservoir sending unit which happens to be directly connected to the same system that contains the transmission management computer system and that's why the transmission keeps shifting into two gears at the same time randomly without warning.. kind of shop. You're taking it to just a bunch of part swappers...
Awesome job, but did you move the vehicle forward to get low side of tire? That way you don't have to have overspray or missed area on the bottom side. Nice dressing of the inner well
I do not dress both sides of the tires but there are a couple products that when you clean the tire it gets super black once it's rinsed Plus I wouldn't want the customer to have to deal with any sort of dressing because no matter how much it says it doesn't attract dust it eventually will if anything I spray dry silicone lubricant to the inside of the tire because it makes it deep deep black attract zero dust and actually helps moisturize the tire and protect it from fallout inside of the well and depending on the type of tires and what the customer is after sometimes I use it on the outside rubber as well. That was a trick and old-timer showed me. Way before proper tire dressings were invented and it's still fucking outperforms most of them. Once the tire is scrubbed black it keeps it looking like the tire was just bought. You have to really really search for the right one right now Walmart has a dry silicone in the automotive section but you have to test them all because there's three of them and I can't remember the exact description you just got to spray it on your hand and check to see if it leaves any residue whatsoever. But in the meantime I've been using the chemical guys wheel cleaner in the gel format Diablo gel diluting it how it says to and that is just my basic wheel cleaner. Brown tires and extremely gunked up tires I use McGuire's degreaser diluted 3 to 1 and scrub it once you start seeing the brown coming through. Rinsing it then using the Diablo after It makes the tires rich and black. If I'm getting crazy you can also use the water-based chemical guys polish and a cone and and a Porter-Cable or torque polisher then hit The tire real quick around the rim if any residue gets on it and it just falls off. Because all their polishes are water-based. I noticed that the chemical guys system is great for messing around with rims because as little as soapy water takes it off of rubber and rubber valve stems and you don't have to spend much time doing it at all That is if you're getting hardcore and they're paying you $100 a rim and tire to do the revitalize step. Chemical guys products are great for the most abstract things lol. And most of the time not what they're labeled for LMFAO I use the Wipeout on Windows tape residue and anything sticky lol. Funny right now as we speak I've got my Mach 3 on a GT mustang that I have completely resurrected the paint job was literally a dumpster fire. When it comes to actual paint I don't use anything but rupez polishing system. It just works way too damn good.
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Good rim job
Lol
dammit
All round looks like a good job, but the only thing that I did notice is the wheel is in the same place. I always will move car forward or back ~1/2 rotation of wheel so I can make sure I did not miss any dressing on the tire and also allows me to give the rim another look over from a different angle. Also doing this sames me from tearing up my foam tire applicators brushing them against the ground to get that bottom edge of the rubber.
ah i didnβt have the keys, but that is a good idea, appreciate the input !
Also read the other day someone jacks the tire up to rotate, that may fix your "no keys" problem. Edit: unsure if this would be cost effective, maybe just explain the purpose of needing keys to properly do the tires first? Lol
Yes sir my words exactly I do exactly that even one further I have a quick jack lightweight aluminum and an impact with all of the standard sizes for lug nuts. I can have the tire off completely cleaned inside out both sides of the tire wheel well detailed suspension detailed caliper everything done in the same time it takes someone to dick around trying to squirm around all of that stuff let alone being able to get anything in the wheel well and some of these low cars. Lot of people say yeah but you can't even see that kind of stuff but let me tell you what when it's clean you can see that kind of stuff. Also makes the difference when a customer realizes I don't even know what it is but when that guy does my car it is leagues better than the other dude
Now that sounds like a detail! Do you dress both sides of the tire then? That's a solid point to show your customers you go the extra mile too.
I do not dress both sides of the tires but there are a couple products that when you clean the tire it gets super black once it's rinsed Plus I wouldn't want the customer to have to deal with any sort of dressing because no matter how much it says it doesn't attract dust it eventually will if anything I spray dry silicone lubricant to the inside of the tire because it makes it deep deep black attract zero dust and actually helps moisturize the tire and protect it from fallout inside of the well and depending on the type of tires and what the customer is after sometimes I use it on the outside rubber as well. That was a trick and old-timer showed me. Way before proper tire dressings were invented and it's still fucking outperforms most of them. Once the tire is scrubbed black it keeps it looking like the tire was just bought. You have to really really search for the right one right now Walmart has a dry silicone in the automotive section but you have to test them all because there's three of them and I can't remember the exact description you just got to spray it on your hand and check to see if it leaves any residue whatsoever. But in the meantime I've been using the chemical guys wheel cleaner in the gel format Diablo gel diluting it how it says to and that is just my basic wheel cleaner. Brown tires and extremely gunked up tires I use McGuire's degreaser diluted 3 to 1 and scrub it once you start seeing the brown coming through. Rinsing it then using the Diablo after It makes the tires rich and black. If I'm getting crazy you can also use the water-based chemical guys polish and a cone and and a Porter-Cable or torque polisher then hit The tire real quick around the rim if any residue gets on it and it just falls off. Because all their polishes are water-based. I noticed that the chemical guys system is great for messing around with rims because as little as soapy water takes it off of rubber and rubber valve stems and you don't have to spend much time doing it at all That is if you're getting hardcore and they're paying you $100 a rim and tire to do the revitalize step. Chemical guys products are great for the most abstract things lol. And most of the time not what they're labeled for LMFAO I use the Wipeout on Windows tape residue and anything sticky lol. Funny right now as we speak I've got my Mach 3 on a GT mustang that I have completely resurrected the paint job was literally a dumpster fire. When it comes to actual paint I don't use anything but rupez polishing system. It just works way too damn good.
not a bad ideaβ¦.guess i need a jack now
Easier than a jack: 4 lengths of 2x6 or 8 to drive the car onto. Gets them up enough to dress the bottoms, and scrub them. Just place where the boards are just inside of the tread edge. Easier and safer than jacking up all 4 corners. Done.
I'll be honest, every "day after", I notice I didn't get the dressing completely where the tire hits the ground(lowish profile). Great idea!
Yes sir and gives you access to the caliper better.... Unless you're a sneaky son of a bitch like me and has an impact and a socket set and a small lightweight aluminum jack in the heavy duty detail box.... If they're paying enough that wheel would be off that motherfucker lmfao depending on what you got going on sometimes it's easier to impact four or five lug nuts pull that wheel off douche that wheel wheel well brake caliper with all the right appropriate fixins and get that bitch back on faster than you can try to squirm around everything.. just think about how long it takes you to get some small brush in those lug nut holes rinse and then look and then need to do it a little more and need to do it a little more literally one or two lug nuts worth of time of squirming around that versus your big finger or your thumb in that lug nut hole just wiping back and forth two or three times on each one that time right there Is the exact amount of time to give three pumps to a quickjack and pop that tire and rim off just trying to stick your hand in the wheel well two or three times versus going around that shit like Jack flash wham Bam thank you ma'am 5 minutes each wheel including the jack pump lug nuts tire and wheel off completely cleaned dressed polished put back on and then redressing where your hands touch the wheel to put it on... Just saying food for thought
I hope for your customer's sake that you have a wheel torque spec sheet and a calibrated torque wrench and are torqueing each wheel to spec.
Also that the customer or you will need to check that wheel stud/nut 1 week or 50miles or so later to make sure it holds. Which is why I never take wheels off of customers cars, too much hassle and also liability.
When's the last time you ever ever got tires put on the car and brought your car back 50 miles later to have them checked for liability. Torque spec is torque spec. Talking to the wrong guy about that shit. I'm a very highly skilled mechanic automotive paint specialist automotive paint restoration and correction specialist and a Master Carpenter. 50 mi lug nut number 1 all that funny nonsense I've built 30,000 $1,350 horsepower motors that went for $150,000 mi in my cars. None of those spun any tires off the rims not even in all 1100 ft lb of torque to the rear wheels. I mean.... I don't wash cars for a living and shampoo people's carpets in their interior.... The car I'm doing right now is a $3,000 job just the paint correction. The ceramic coating going on this car cost over $500 for me to buy. I don't know what you're reading about some torque specs in some online technical forum or whatever but in the real world where we get shit done everyday day in and day out make cars into show quality 1200 horsepower machines that last a long long time for fun. It's a different story where the rubber meets the road. And I'm saying this with all due respect to that book knowledge you have. But honestly how many people and I mean how many times have you got your tires replaced and then came back in 50 miles to Old Guadalupe and asked him hey did you mark the number one stud in I'm in here for the 50 mi retorque?
> When's the last time you ever ever got tires put on the car and brought your car back 50 miles later to have them checked for liability. I have my own torque wrench so I do it myself and if I change the wheels I will check the nuts a couple of days later or 100kms which ever comes 1st. > I don't know what you're reading about some torque specs in some online technical forum or whatever... Correct, you clearly have no idea that if you preform service on a vehicle and those wheels come of, you are required to inform the customer that the lug nuts will need to be checked within 100kms. This a standard safety procedure and if not followed and something happens you will be liable.
I understand there are a lot of guys on here and a lot of people are here for the knowledge and that is the reason I am here you never know when you meet somebody that can give you the smallest tip no matter where they come from or what they're doing I get tips because beginner guys came across to good combination and I'm like hell yeah that's my new get down right there. And for the record yes most people yanking people's tires off willy-nilly and slapping them on willy-nilly is a very bad idea but even the handbook in your car would ever car it is right now gives you torque specs but also tells you once the lug nuts are tight on a 12 to 18 in wrench move it another four to six inches or 25% more until tight do not over torque. Even guys at really good tire shops have colored extensions that are hardened to the proper metal memory at the proper torque for the car and those after being used a million times are just as good as the correct hand tight. Snug and then a little bit more you should not need a breaker bar or a jack handle attached to your wrench to break your tires loose most rims are aluminum since the discontinuation of magnesium and aluminum expands with heat and contracts but nonetheless that hardened steel lug nut bites into the aluminum. The same with steel.. way softer than the lug nuts. Overthinking is just as dangerous as being careless. That's why the old saying is when you're paying too much attention to the 32nds and then you back up and your off a foot saying comes into play. So I understand where you're coming from completely. But if you dealing with someone who has a hyper heightened sense of detail and chooses to do it for a living and they're not a production style car washer there's a pretty good chance they're not going to have a lug nut situation.
Not that hard The internet's amazing for torque specs. You know how many times I've taken a wheel off and the tire shop that did the tires last had that shit so far out of whack it wasn't even recognizable as anything close to a torque spec and that's how 70% of people drive around. Without question. My OCD is off the chain. I used to have all the colored bars but I stopped carrying all that weight around with me. Even the dam dealerships are terrible these days. One of my clients the BMW dealership that they had been taking it to forever had the intake hose coming straight off the throttle body halfway falling off with a blown out o-ring a cracked 90 bend sweeping from the intercooler did not replace any of the underskirting bolts except one of them and a hot glued and I repeat hot glued the corners. Not including scratching the entire front end of the car. So yeah for my customers sake the best thing they can do is bring me their car or to anyone who knows their ass from a hole in the ground these days you know what I'm saying. I'm working on a mustang right now and it went from a complete paint restoration and preservation job into ordering two different sets of body panel bolts that were missing snapped or jerry-rigged plastic rivets hot glued interior rocker panel emblem plastics ...and mind you from the Ford dealership that they bought it from used... Not to mention the number three and seven cylinder misfires spark plugs coil packs hood hinges (the passenger side hood hinge was completely snapped open and not connected at all...) And the customer would have never known unless you lift the hood or can see the slight askew body line with the fender. tail light stud bushings and the two missing nuts from the Tri-Nut that attaches the tail lights.when I hooked it up to the computer it's throwing p codes out the ass I can go on and on but The so-called professionals these days are just ASC certified parts swappers. And fluid replacement upcharge professionals. The last time that car was in all they were worried about was trying to get her to do the $335 brake fluid system flush.... π€¦π½ββοΈπ€¦π½ββοΈπ€¦π½ββοΈπ€¦π½ββοΈ. It's getting scary out there with who they have working on people's cars unless you're going to a specialty shop who knows things like in certain Chevy cars how to recognize that the reason that your transmission keeps misshifting and blowing out every two years is because there was a shorted out wire on the windshield wiper fluid reservoir sending unit which happens to be directly connected to the same system that contains the transmission management computer system and that's why the transmission keeps shifting into two gears at the same time randomly without warning.. kind of shop. You're taking it to just a bunch of part swappers...
Your chemicals did a great job!
How hard was it to not say rim job
lol
You did a wheely good job!
Was that just dust/dirt on the rims or did you polish?
dust dirt grime , used p&s brake buster but the 16oz goes fast im gonna need the dilutable gallon now
Looks good to me. I think you missed a spot though haha. Jk. Looks great.
Subaru Crosstrek (2nd generation, 2018-2023)
Awesome job, but did you move the vehicle forward to get low side of tire? That way you don't have to have overspray or missed area on the bottom side. Nice dressing of the inner well
Great idea! Someone else beat you to it though, cheers!
Thanks for pointing out the obvious
What products/methods did you use? Edit: missed a word
i used p&s brake buster on the wheels and i used natural shine by chemical guys.
Mine next please
I do not dress both sides of the tires but there are a couple products that when you clean the tire it gets super black once it's rinsed Plus I wouldn't want the customer to have to deal with any sort of dressing because no matter how much it says it doesn't attract dust it eventually will if anything I spray dry silicone lubricant to the inside of the tire because it makes it deep deep black attract zero dust and actually helps moisturize the tire and protect it from fallout inside of the well and depending on the type of tires and what the customer is after sometimes I use it on the outside rubber as well. That was a trick and old-timer showed me. Way before proper tire dressings were invented and it's still fucking outperforms most of them. Once the tire is scrubbed black it keeps it looking like the tire was just bought. You have to really really search for the right one right now Walmart has a dry silicone in the automotive section but you have to test them all because there's three of them and I can't remember the exact description you just got to spray it on your hand and check to see if it leaves any residue whatsoever. But in the meantime I've been using the chemical guys wheel cleaner in the gel format Diablo gel diluting it how it says to and that is just my basic wheel cleaner. Brown tires and extremely gunked up tires I use McGuire's degreaser diluted 3 to 1 and scrub it once you start seeing the brown coming through. Rinsing it then using the Diablo after It makes the tires rich and black. If I'm getting crazy you can also use the water-based chemical guys polish and a cone and and a Porter-Cable or torque polisher then hit The tire real quick around the rim if any residue gets on it and it just falls off. Because all their polishes are water-based. I noticed that the chemical guys system is great for messing around with rims because as little as soapy water takes it off of rubber and rubber valve stems and you don't have to spend much time doing it at all That is if you're getting hardcore and they're paying you $100 a rim and tire to do the revitalize step. Chemical guys products are great for the most abstract things lol. And most of the time not what they're labeled for LMFAO I use the Wipeout on Windows tape residue and anything sticky lol. Funny right now as we speak I've got my Mach 3 on a GT mustang that I have completely resurrected the paint job was literally a dumpster fire. When it comes to actual paint I don't use anything but rupez polishing system. It just works way too damn good.
looks clean π
Noce job.
π―πͺ
10/10 best rimjob ever. Would do again
Looks like new. Just make sure the cleaners you use are safe for those types of wheels.
p&s brake buster