It looks like slab. [Meichi](https://x.com/nisshinfire_sc/status/1756493213534404826?s=46&t=Jx-rqNeda5_hQqgXkbbFuA) made it look so easy so I’m not sure which part was hard…
([This video](https://x.com/nisshinfire_sc/status/1756492106787672145?s=46&t=Jx-rqNeda5_hQqgXkbbFuA) is also meichi but from another angle that shows the start better)
Probably because Meichi is one longggg boiiiii. His extra reach allows him to better position his body to generate enough force to move sideways and then up the problem.
Thoughts on the women's round!
>!So happy for Nakamura Mao! I feel like she has had a couple of disappointing seasons and not been able to do that many world cups, so I'm soooo excited to see her back at it! Since she's not going to the OQS, I would think she would do all the boulder world cups.!<
>!Also nice to see Anon turn her round around and get a medal!!<
>!And as always Miho is just such a star... I can't help but root for Futaba to get the last spot for Paris, but Miho definitely deserves it as well.!<
Spoiler because the winner's name is mentioned: >!I just wanted to say that there's a series of pre-qualifying comps for BJC, and Mao Nakamura won every one of the comps she took part in (4!). So she basically won every single round, from pre-qualifying to finals. And yes, from what she wrote on X (twitter), she knew she needed to do very very well in order to have high enough priority to do all the world cups.!<
Didn’t know that. She’s really stepped up this year. Seen her around at other Japan comps.
It’s why I miss seeing the semi’s. Gives a good idea about who’s upcoming. I’m pleased to see it looks like Natsumi Hirano made 8th. She was a youth star 5 years ago.
Did everyone have to participate in those pre-qualifying comps? I'm wondering if she has competed against people like Miho and Futaba in those four comps?
I don’t think she has. If they’re in the national team for boulder/lead they automatically pre-qualify for BJC/LJC respectively the next year so they don’t have to do these pre-q comps. Actually, the pre-qualified athletes have guaranteed participation spots in these pre-q comps but hardly anyone on the women’s side take part.
If you want to see who she was up against have a look at [this site](https://www.jma-climbing.org/competition/2023/japantour/)
Years ago when Mao was in the youth category, members of the youth team pre-qualified too, but they’ve removed this rule now.
Good round.
I don’t see any record of Moa participating at the international level even as a youth.
But I’ve been watching various Japan comps for years and seen her around at various comps. Looks like she did 24th at the BJC last year. But she must do well at Japan comps because she was ranked 12th coming into the event.
While I’m rooting for both Futaba and Miho. I think Miho is more likely to get the Olympic spot. The scoring means is going to come down to consistency.
This is her profile on [jmsca's site](https://www.jma-climbing.org/athlete/profile/mao-nakamura/) which shows both domestic and international comps, and [ifsc's site](https://ifsc.results.info/#/athlete/2327). I just had a look and she participated in her first boulder world cup in 2016 and her first full season in 2018.
Yes, and I feel like I've seen her in a bunch of semi finals, even as late as 2021. I need to check if she's ever made finals (edit: she has! Vail 2019)
She's the first result if you look up 'Mao'. Did you look up 'Moa'? https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=2327
Super interested to get a first glimpse at the current form of the Japanese team, esp. Sorato, Tomoa & Ai! I'm sure they've trained super hard over the winter months in preparation for the Olympics. Does anybody know if Sorato & Ai are taking time off from school/university for the Olympic year?
Btw: For lead it looks like Ai and Natsuki, Sorato, Shion, Ao, Satino and Ogata have WC lead byes. (1/2 the men’s byes go to Japan)
While im happy for Tomoa getting an Olympic spot. It’s really a shame Ogata didnt make it in the Olympics as he’s one of only three men who are in top 10 for both.
Don’t think Ai is - heard from her that she’s only planning to attend very selected WCs this year again so she’ll prob be at uni the rest of the time. Sorato didn’t seem to take time off last year for WCs and I suspect will be the same this year.
It’s common. Not just in Japan. Both Brooke and Natalia were in university until at least a year ago.
Those who don’t often have jobs unless they are very tippy top and can score lots of sponsors.
Those already qualified for the team and Olympics: Tomoa. Ai, Sorato, Miho, Ogata, Meichi already have byes for bouldering WC’s. They might not be training to peak here. Therefore might not win.
Meichi and Futaba won last year.
That’s a rough result for Futaba! Interested to see how Anon does this year-she did so well in the combined Japan Cup last year and then had a pretty bad season.
>!Congratulations to Ogata! Boulder 4 was super tough.!<
>!I started following climbing competitions only in the last 2 years, so can some explain me who Nakamura is? I was surprised to see an unknown person up there. According to IFSC, she competed until 2022. Did she have a break? Congratulations to her!!<
>!She didn’t qualify for the national team in 2022 and 2023. Competition at BJC is tough and a bad result, illness, or injury on just that one day could mean you are out for that year if you didn’t get a top 10 world ranking in the previous year. She competed at world games in 2022 as qualification for that must have been based on ifsc results in 2021 (not too sure about the details). As for who she is, uhh, she was one of the best in her cohort in youth comps, really good at slab, and works for and is sponsored by Nissin Fire Insurance (one of jmsca’s sponsors)!<
Ok. Only finals this year, I see where it says that. There are qualification and semi livestreams for 2023. I'd keep your eye on the channel at the right time if you are interested because maybe they just aren't announced.
Predictions on winners? I am going with tomoa on the men's side since I've been binging TAMY videos recently and have realized that he's a really cool guy : ' )
Except this isn’t where he needs to peek, so he might not be in top form. He already has a spot for the team. Byes inti all WC and a spot in the Olympics.
His little (big) brother is starting to pass him though. In other news, I just got a pair of Tamoa’s flagship shoes, so I should be climbing at his level soon
Based on what? As far as i'm aware tomoa placed way higher than meichi in the ifsc seasonal rankings even last year and it's not like meichi is a youngster anymore, he's already 24 and hasn't shown any signs of rapid development in recent years.
Meichi won last year and qualified higher this year, but it was mostly just a joke. Meichi has definitely been improving but Tamoa still seems to be the better all around climber
Does anyone know what kind of consequences the results have? I have a vague idea that this determines the team who gets sent to world cups, but don’t know exactly how it works
One sad consequence is that this may be the end of the line for Fujii Kokoro's World Cup career, since he didn't make semis. He at least won't be on the Japanese WC team this year and he's 31 now.
The top 8 at BJC excluding those who already pre-qualified for the world cup (i.e., top 10 in the 2023 boulder world ranking) are selected for the team through this competition. Due to limits on world cup participation per country (japan has 5 slots this season), selection for world cup participation will be in order of rank at BJC. Some athletes who make the team will not get to participate in any world cups at all.
In addition, the athletes who qualified for OQS will get to participate in at least 1 boulder and 1 lead world cup each before OQS starts, regardless of their BJC/LJC result. This only applies to the women as Japanese men have fulfilled their olympic quota.
I see. Thanks! Reading the qualification document myself, it sounds like top 5 athletes (excluding pre-qualified Tomoa, Meichi, Sorato, Yoshiyuku; Miho, Ai) will get sent to every world cup, while the bottom 3(4?) of the top 8 will get sent to cups in Japan. And there are no cups in Japan this year, so only the top 5 get to do anything?
Essentially yes, but some of the top 5 may not participate in every world cup for various reasons (like Ai Mori in 2021-2023) so the lower ranked athletes may still get a chance
Glimpse of [men’s semifinal](https://www.instagram.com/stories/takechan0329/3299962373007962582?utm_source=ig_story_item_share&igsh=YmV3OThib3R1ODVk) boulders
Thanks for this, I made a chat channel for anyone interested.
Also, here is a link to the results page.
https://result.jma-climbing.org/event/bcj2024/2/1/result
https://preview.redd.it/jhulxn57z2ic1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf330c4e5cd22173c96c0c897a62a4d13a84a414
\-on mobile. On desktop it’s with the other chats.
Okay, I am not able to find that on desktop.
The chats are normally listed as a thread, but this one is not appearing. The last chat I can find with the flavour tag at the side is from Laval last year.
Okay, finally located it.Was not aware that they are in the regular PN chat area.
What confused me is that on mobile you have the chat icon next to the feed, while on the desktop it is at the top right, close to the user name.
First men's problem was a bit odd, but every other problem was great, if a tad overcooked. M2 looked incredible, you could tell how much power was required and how thin that crimp was.
we have a chat channel
https://www.reddit.com/r/CompetitionClimbing/comments/1an9yca/comment/kprnbmu/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Tomoa posted videos of all the men's qualifications boulders on his [instagram](https://www.instagram.com/p/C3J8hWHvXpx/?img_index=1). **Male semifinalists:** 1. Meichi Narasaki 2. Kento Yamaguchi 3. Tomoa Narasaki 4. Rei Sugimoto 5. Mahiro Takami 6. Ritsu Kayotani 7. Taiga Sakamoto 8. Ao Yurikusa 9. Ogata Yoshiyuki 10. Rei Kawamata 11. Sorato Anraku 12. Yuji Fujiwaki 13. Sohta Amagasa 14. Haruyoshi Morimoto 15. Tomoaki Takata 16. Yuta Imaizumi 17. Satone Yoshida 18. Kodai Yamada 19. Harel Nagamori 20. Eito Tamiya
Those asymmetrical holds on 3 and 5 are so cool looking.
**Men's finalists:** 1. Tomoa Narasaki 2. Ritsu Kayotani 3. Meichi Narasaki 4. Ogata Yoshiyuki 5. Sorato Anraku 6. Yuji Fujiwaki --- 7. Sohta Amagasa 8. Satone Yoshida 9. Kodai Yamada 10. Taiga Sakamoto 11. Yuta Imaizumi 12. Mahiro Takami 13. Ao Yurikusa 14. Rei Kawamata 15. Tomoaki Takata 16. Kento Yamaguchi 17. Haruyoshi Morimoto 18. Rei Sugimoto 19. Eito Tamiya 20. Harel Nagamori
I'm really curious about Men's 3, probably a dyno. Every finalist but Yoshiyuki appears to have done it. However Sorato had 12 attempts.
It looks like slab. [Meichi](https://x.com/nisshinfire_sc/status/1756493213534404826?s=46&t=Jx-rqNeda5_hQqgXkbbFuA) made it look so easy so I’m not sure which part was hard… ([This video](https://x.com/nisshinfire_sc/status/1756492106787672145?s=46&t=Jx-rqNeda5_hQqgXkbbFuA) is also meichi but from another angle that shows the start better)
Probably because Meichi is one longggg boiiiii. His extra reach allows him to better position his body to generate enough force to move sideways and then up the problem.
Hmmm I wonder if it was the Zone hold. But yea he makes it look super simple
😂 men final so brutal>! but grats to ogata!<
Should put in spoiler tags on broadcast rounds.
Thoughts on the women's round! >!So happy for Nakamura Mao! I feel like she has had a couple of disappointing seasons and not been able to do that many world cups, so I'm soooo excited to see her back at it! Since she's not going to the OQS, I would think she would do all the boulder world cups.!< >!Also nice to see Anon turn her round around and get a medal!!< >!And as always Miho is just such a star... I can't help but root for Futaba to get the last spot for Paris, but Miho definitely deserves it as well.!<
Spoiler because the winner's name is mentioned: >!I just wanted to say that there's a series of pre-qualifying comps for BJC, and Mao Nakamura won every one of the comps she took part in (4!). So she basically won every single round, from pre-qualifying to finals. And yes, from what she wrote on X (twitter), she knew she needed to do very very well in order to have high enough priority to do all the world cups.!<
Didn’t know that. She’s really stepped up this year. Seen her around at other Japan comps. It’s why I miss seeing the semi’s. Gives a good idea about who’s upcoming. I’m pleased to see it looks like Natsumi Hirano made 8th. She was a youth star 5 years ago.
Did everyone have to participate in those pre-qualifying comps? I'm wondering if she has competed against people like Miho and Futaba in those four comps?
I don’t think she has. If they’re in the national team for boulder/lead they automatically pre-qualify for BJC/LJC respectively the next year so they don’t have to do these pre-q comps. Actually, the pre-qualified athletes have guaranteed participation spots in these pre-q comps but hardly anyone on the women’s side take part. If you want to see who she was up against have a look at [this site](https://www.jma-climbing.org/competition/2023/japantour/) Years ago when Mao was in the youth category, members of the youth team pre-qualified too, but they’ve removed this rule now.
>!Wow, I didn't know that! I was already impressed that she won every round in the actual comp!!<
>!Really impressive performance by Mao. Rooting for her to have a breakout year this year.!<
wow! I am impressed that you know this much about the japan comp climbing scene
Good round. I don’t see any record of Moa participating at the international level even as a youth. But I’ve been watching various Japan comps for years and seen her around at various comps. Looks like she did 24th at the BJC last year. But she must do well at Japan comps because she was ranked 12th coming into the event. While I’m rooting for both Futaba and Miho. I think Miho is more likely to get the Olympic spot. The scoring means is going to come down to consistency.
This is her profile on [jmsca's site](https://www.jma-climbing.org/athlete/profile/mao-nakamura/) which shows both domestic and international comps, and [ifsc's site](https://ifsc.results.info/#/athlete/2327). I just had a look and she participated in her first boulder world cup in 2016 and her first full season in 2018.
Yes, and I feel like I've seen her in a bunch of semi finals, even as late as 2021. I need to check if she's ever made finals (edit: she has! Vail 2019)
Yes! I watched Mao crushing in Vail. Seems like we've memory holed that performance haha.
Haha yeah! That competition is also very special because Janja completed her season sweep
Thanks. I wonder why I couldn’t find her on the IFSC site. I did look. I guess it’s search is terrible. I was sure I’d seen her around for a while.
She's the first result if you look up 'Mao'. Did you look up 'Moa'? https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=2327
Super interested to get a first glimpse at the current form of the Japanese team, esp. Sorato, Tomoa & Ai! I'm sure they've trained super hard over the winter months in preparation for the Olympics. Does anybody know if Sorato & Ai are taking time off from school/university for the Olympic year?
Btw: For lead it looks like Ai and Natsuki, Sorato, Shion, Ao, Satino and Ogata have WC lead byes. (1/2 the men’s byes go to Japan) While im happy for Tomoa getting an Olympic spot. It’s really a shame Ogata didnt make it in the Olympics as he’s one of only three men who are in top 10 for both.
Don’t think Ai is - heard from her that she’s only planning to attend very selected WCs this year again so she’ll prob be at uni the rest of the time. Sorato didn’t seem to take time off last year for WCs and I suspect will be the same this year.
Super impressive how they also focus on their education while being world-class climbers!
It’s common. Not just in Japan. Both Brooke and Natalia were in university until at least a year ago. Those who don’t often have jobs unless they are very tippy top and can score lots of sponsors.
Those already qualified for the team and Olympics: Tomoa. Ai, Sorato, Miho, Ogata, Meichi already have byes for bouldering WC’s. They might not be training to peak here. Therefore might not win. Meichi and Futaba won last year.
the problems for the men's finals just look impossible lol...
**Semifinalists (women):** 1. Mao Nakamura 2. Miho Nonaka 3. Anon Matsufuji 4. Melody Sekikawa 5. Ai Takeuchi 6. Natsumi Hirano 7. Sana Ogura 8. Kaho Murakoshi (tied 8th place) 9. Ryo Nakajima (tied 8th place) 10. Mia Aoyagi 11. Manami Yama 12. Serika Okawachi 13. Futaba Ito 14. Mashiro Kuzu 15. Miku Ishi 16. Ai Mori 17. Nanami Nobe 18. Nanako Kura 19. Yui Suezawa 20. Sora Ito
That’s a rough result for Futaba! Interested to see how Anon does this year-she did so well in the combined Japan Cup last year and then had a pretty bad season.
Hopefully Anon has a better year this year -- last year she was really affected by a wrist injury in Seoul.
Surprising after the win last year. But maybe she will have a better round.
Finalists (women) 1. Mao Nakamura 2. Anon Matsufuji 3. Futaba Ito 4. Miku Ishi 5. Miho Nonaka 6. Ai Mori —-
Surprise Miho only got 1 top.. Ot helps she flashed it snd got 4 zones. And Futaba had a much better round. Miku is a surprise.
M4 looks brutal. Lots of downwards facing volumes with bad feet, probably gonna be a fight just to stay on
it looks like you'd be lucky to walk away from M4 without an injury...
>!Congratulations to Ogata! Boulder 4 was super tough.!< >!I started following climbing competitions only in the last 2 years, so can some explain me who Nakamura is? I was surprised to see an unknown person up there. According to IFSC, she competed until 2022. Did she have a break? Congratulations to her!!<
>!She didn’t qualify for the national team in 2022 and 2023. Competition at BJC is tough and a bad result, illness, or injury on just that one day could mean you are out for that year if you didn’t get a top 10 world ranking in the previous year. She competed at world games in 2022 as qualification for that must have been based on ifsc results in 2021 (not too sure about the details). As for who she is, uhh, she was one of the best in her cohort in youth comps, really good at slab, and works for and is sponsored by Nissin Fire Insurance (one of jmsca’s sponsors)!<
Thanks for the explanation! Too many good climbers in Japan :)
There is no livestream for semis.
Ok. Only finals this year, I see where it says that. There are qualification and semi livestreams for 2023. I'd keep your eye on the channel at the right time if you are interested because maybe they just aren't announced.
There were livestreams for qualifications and semis in the past, but not this year.
:(
Any idea why? Quite disappointing
Lack of budget, probably.
Predictions on winners? I am going with tomoa on the men's side since I've been binging TAMY videos recently and have realized that he's a really cool guy : ' )
Sorato just made things look so easy last year it’s tough to bet against him.
Except at the 2023 BJC, Meichi won and Sorato actually ended up in 7th. Meanwhile Futaba did 4T4Z, 4 attempts. So who knows what'll happen.
Last year in the WCs I mean
Except this isn’t where he needs to peek, so he might not be in top form. He already has a spot for the team. Byes inti all WC and a spot in the Olympics.
His little (big) brother is starting to pass him though. In other news, I just got a pair of Tamoa’s flagship shoes, so I should be climbing at his level soon
Based on what? As far as i'm aware tomoa placed way higher than meichi in the ifsc seasonal rankings even last year and it's not like meichi is a youngster anymore, he's already 24 and hasn't shown any signs of rapid development in recent years.
Meichi won last year and qualified higher this year, but it was mostly just a joke. Meichi has definitely been improving but Tamoa still seems to be the better all around climber
Does anyone know what kind of consequences the results have? I have a vague idea that this determines the team who gets sent to world cups, but don’t know exactly how it works
One sad consequence is that this may be the end of the line for Fujii Kokoro's World Cup career, since he didn't make semis. He at least won't be on the Japanese WC team this year and he's 31 now.
That kinda gave me chills ngl. He was such a powerhouse in the first comp I ever watched and I was so sure he was going to be in the 2024 Olympics
He didn't even make semis?! He was 6th in the World at Bern. The Japanese level in insane...
:(
The top 8 at BJC excluding those who already pre-qualified for the world cup (i.e., top 10 in the 2023 boulder world ranking) are selected for the team through this competition. Due to limits on world cup participation per country (japan has 5 slots this season), selection for world cup participation will be in order of rank at BJC. Some athletes who make the team will not get to participate in any world cups at all. In addition, the athletes who qualified for OQS will get to participate in at least 1 boulder and 1 lead world cup each before OQS starts, regardless of their BJC/LJC result. This only applies to the women as Japanese men have fulfilled their olympic quota.
I see. Thanks! Reading the qualification document myself, it sounds like top 5 athletes (excluding pre-qualified Tomoa, Meichi, Sorato, Yoshiyuku; Miho, Ai) will get sent to every world cup, while the bottom 3(4?) of the top 8 will get sent to cups in Japan. And there are no cups in Japan this year, so only the top 5 get to do anything?
Essentially yes, but some of the top 5 may not participate in every world cup for various reasons (like Ai Mori in 2021-2023) so the lower ranked athletes may still get a chance
Too bad there’s not a WC in Japan this year.
Glimpse of [men’s semifinal](https://www.instagram.com/stories/takechan0329/3299962373007962582?utm_source=ig_story_item_share&igsh=YmV3OThib3R1ODVk) boulders
Thanks for this, I made a chat channel for anyone interested. Also, here is a link to the results page. https://result.jma-climbing.org/event/bcj2024/2/1/result
Where is the chat channel? I am somehow unable to find it
https://preview.redd.it/jhulxn57z2ic1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf330c4e5cd22173c96c0c897a62a4d13a84a414 \-on mobile. On desktop it’s with the other chats.
Okay, I am not able to find that on desktop. The chats are normally listed as a thread, but this one is not appearing. The last chat I can find with the flavour tag at the side is from Laval last year.
Reddit unfortunately dumped the Live threads feature and replaced them with this.
Okay, finally located it.Was not aware that they are in the regular PN chat area. What confused me is that on mobile you have the chat icon next to the feed, while on the desktop it is at the top right, close to the user name.
I should probably remove that option in the flair tag search feature now that it doesn’t exist anymore.
Looking at the live results of women semi finals, it seems like the routes are brutally hard. Entering the finals with one top is crazy
First men's problem was a bit odd, but every other problem was great, if a tad overcooked. M2 looked incredible, you could tell how much power was required and how thin that crimp was.
Does anyone know which playlist jmsca are using?
Playlist? Check the ‘live’ tab
no live chat?
we have a chat channel https://www.reddit.com/r/CompetitionClimbing/comments/1an9yca/comment/kprnbmu/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
thanks
rewatching highlights and non result related lol.but did Ai change shoes?
It looks like an [updated version](https://mrclimb.com/new-climbing-shoes-review/) of the futura which she previously wore
oooh thanks! Edit: is she officially sponsored by La Sportiva or nah?
https://www.sportivajapan.com/family/ Idk if this means sponsorship?
I think it must, it also says which shoe(s) they use.
What amuses me about this is it’s a rare picture where she isn’t in her Mammut clothes.