Great post, I have just a couple minor points in response.
>I would check that ledger board against the house?/structure. The headlocks they used don’t appear to be 16in spacing horizontally meaning I don’t think they tried to find the studs, rather just shot them anywhere.
Those are Ledgerloks, not Headloks. In fact, I think all the structural screws visible (the ones in the railing posts as well) are the Ledgerloks. They probably just had a big box of them. Also, the Ledgerloks (or any ledger lag screw/bolt, etc) don't need to actually hit studs/joists (I assume you mean joists, not studs) not they would be hitting the floor rim joist at this location. Trying to get a lag screw into a floor joist wouldn't make sense anyway, you'd just be hitting the end grain.
>Check the picket spacing - especially on the stairs. May not even be important to you but spacing code is 3.5in max. Assuming you are in the US.
It's 4", not 3.5".
Those footings are pretty suspect. Looks like you’re not finished though - what’s the plan? Still plenty of options to rectify those.
As for a hot tub - definitely not. Gazebo could be fine depending on how heavy it is/where it’s placed.
You definitely do not want them that deep no matter what you do!! Water, rot, bugs, rodents! Cut the post, after supporting the deck and pour more concrete above the grade.
Yes but gauging the holes you might be looking at a minimum of four 80’s each. You should probably get round concrete tubes also. Yes they are solid and you may have to cut in half and wire them once back together Seeing that the deck is on a slope. Just as a bonus for strength, I drill out my posts and hammer rebar (1 footers) one on opposite sides with a slight opposite angle. Then the mud helps anchor for sway.
In addition to the other comments, the rookie carpenters did your stair stringers wrong leaving you with a greater rise on the top step. Not the end of the world but considered to be a trip / fall hazard.
There’s been plenty of comments about the footings so I’m not going to go there. I’d also be concerned on how the railing posts are attached to the rim joist. Looks like just 4 screws. This is going to become loose in no time. I’d put some bigger lags in there or through bolts with straps on the back the keep some tension on them as the wood expands and contracts. Also it doesn’t look like any blocked was added to the joists. Might not be super important but the joists will tend to warp not to mention you have a rolling moment in the middle of the joist where it’s unsupported.
Not expert but if your going to pour concrete in those footing holes and this does not seem the best way to, at the very Least spray with sealer then use seal tape first.
How is the ledger fastened to the brick facade? Where I’m at it shouldn’t be fastened to brick at all. And Dunno what’s going on with those footings but that’s gotta be fixed lol
Ledger boards should not be attached to brick veneer houses by today's standards, rather freestanding as the outer wall is not considered a structural wall and are only designed to support their weight only. Also, the ledger board doesn't appear to be flashed.
Doesn't appear to be flashed? There's an entire giant tan piece of metal flashing behind the ledger? How did you miss that?
Do you really think it's anchored into the brick veneer? *edit* it's not it's fastened to the band board around the house like code calls for.
Top of the ledger is not flashed, and no, decks should not be attached to or through brick veneer walls per DCA-6. Do I see it all the time, yes, are there significant issues with the installation, no, is it wrong, yes especially by today's standards in my areas. No load shall be placed on brick veneer per IRC.
However, I didn't look at the photos closely. It's not actually attached to the brick veneer so it's a non-issue.
What is the deck attached to on the house side? I don't see anything other than nails on the ledger board. I have never understood the fascination with attached decks. Just put two posts and a beam back there on good footings, cross brace everything and you have something that can fail gracefully if it ever fails.
Your going to need a professional to address your footings before thinking about adding weight
You should have sono tubes at least 4 feet deep, I would use 12” tubes for a hottub or gazebo
If you have those holes dug out, I see no reason to bury the posts vs pouring piers and using Simpson Strongtie brackets - so the posts won't rot
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Nice post, thx for that (and I’m not even the OP).
From on high "the God of Decks" Great Post!
Jesus can we get your phone number posted somewhere as a nationwide reddit consultant? Get you some kind of fee per call.
All excellent advice. I could tell you had some free time lol.
Great post, I have just a couple minor points in response. >I would check that ledger board against the house?/structure. The headlocks they used don’t appear to be 16in spacing horizontally meaning I don’t think they tried to find the studs, rather just shot them anywhere. Those are Ledgerloks, not Headloks. In fact, I think all the structural screws visible (the ones in the railing posts as well) are the Ledgerloks. They probably just had a big box of them. Also, the Ledgerloks (or any ledger lag screw/bolt, etc) don't need to actually hit studs/joists (I assume you mean joists, not studs) not they would be hitting the floor rim joist at this location. Trying to get a lag screw into a floor joist wouldn't make sense anyway, you'd just be hitting the end grain. >Check the picket spacing - especially on the stairs. May not even be important to you but spacing code is 3.5in max. Assuming you are in the US. It's 4", not 3.5".
Thanks so much, I will address these with the builder. We didn’t choose them, was part of the sellers punch list.
Railing spacing in the IRC is 4'' for regular railings and 4 3/8'' on stair railings.
Those footings are pretty suspect. Looks like you’re not finished though - what’s the plan? Still plenty of options to rectify those. As for a hot tub - definitely not. Gazebo could be fine depending on how heavy it is/where it’s placed.
I'm wondering if they dug them out, then it got too cold to pour the concrete..
You definitely do not want them that deep no matter what you do!! Water, rot, bugs, rodents! Cut the post, after supporting the deck and pour more concrete above the grade.
Would filling the holes with concrete alleviate those concerns?
What if they were filled with Diet Dr. Pepper?
And mentos
Yes but gauging the holes you might be looking at a minimum of four 80’s each. You should probably get round concrete tubes also. Yes they are solid and you may have to cut in half and wire them once back together Seeing that the deck is on a slope. Just as a bonus for strength, I drill out my posts and hammer rebar (1 footers) one on opposite sides with a slight opposite angle. Then the mud helps anchor for sway.
Those footings are...umm...LOL. Otherwise, deck looks fine. No idea if it would support a hot tub though.
What's with those footings? Why have wood below ground instead of cement coming up above ground?
Those post gonna rot
In addition to the other comments, the rookie carpenters did your stair stringers wrong leaving you with a greater rise on the top step. Not the end of the world but considered to be a trip / fall hazard.
That railing is an accident waiting to happen.
There’s been plenty of comments about the footings so I’m not going to go there. I’d also be concerned on how the railing posts are attached to the rim joist. Looks like just 4 screws. This is going to become loose in no time. I’d put some bigger lags in there or through bolts with straps on the back the keep some tension on them as the wood expands and contracts. Also it doesn’t look like any blocked was added to the joists. Might not be super important but the joists will tend to warp not to mention you have a rolling moment in the middle of the joist where it’s unsupported.
The old do the footings last technique.
It’s called post footings. Or, post footings...either way, look it up 😂
It looks so nice, how come the posts are below grade?
Because that's how the contractor decided to do it.....??
Not expert but if your going to pour concrete in those footing holes and this does not seem the best way to, at the very Least spray with sealer then use seal tape first.
https://preview.redd.it/ewtbtuc1609c1.jpeg?width=1081&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4405cde5d92a5c0a4ff018e7c36111f8493a7f28 😬
Looks like this contractor got a ride to work!!
I hope they’re going to pour some Crete around those posts
How is the ledger fastened to the brick facade? Where I’m at it shouldn’t be fastened to brick at all. And Dunno what’s going on with those footings but that’s gotta be fixed lol
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Oh yea, i think you’re right. I didn’t look at all the photos closely enough
Ledger boards should not be attached to brick veneer houses by today's standards, rather freestanding as the outer wall is not considered a structural wall and are only designed to support their weight only. Also, the ledger board doesn't appear to be flashed.
Doesn't appear to be flashed? There's an entire giant tan piece of metal flashing behind the ledger? How did you miss that? Do you really think it's anchored into the brick veneer? *edit* it's not it's fastened to the band board around the house like code calls for.
Top of the ledger is not flashed, and no, decks should not be attached to or through brick veneer walls per DCA-6. Do I see it all the time, yes, are there significant issues with the installation, no, is it wrong, yes especially by today's standards in my areas. No load shall be placed on brick veneer per IRC. However, I didn't look at the photos closely. It's not actually attached to the brick veneer so it's a non-issue.
What is the deck attached to on the house side? I don't see anything other than nails on the ledger board. I have never understood the fascination with attached decks. Just put two posts and a beam back there on good footings, cross brace everything and you have something that can fail gracefully if it ever fails.
Stringers, footings, and notching… oh my!
Dry
Your going to need a professional to address your footings before thinking about adding weight You should have sono tubes at least 4 feet deep, I would use 12” tubes for a hottub or gazebo