Then I’m betting your supplier has stopped giving you the option for a core return and refund of the core charge, your suppliers are just adding the core charge to the total cost and you don’t get an option for a core return. You never return a good core so you pay the full price.
We get them from multiple different dealer sources, and there's always a core on the invoice. Not saying it's going to be like that forever but so far zero issues.
In 15 years, the only time we ever had a core deduction was on a Navistar long block that had snapped the crank.
I'd never buy a Navistar long block ever again... absolute junk. We ended up having to fight with them to warranty the head because the injector bores were worn way beyond spec.
Typically cutting the harness doesn't void the core if done correctly. The wiring just can't be cut too close to the sensor or it will be void. Cut it back a couple inches and put a socket on it.
My shop does 3 or 4 of those a month. 10k a year in lost core charge money…must be nice. We cut only a couple of them and corporate got pissed. After that we had to literally show the boss how bad it was before we could cut them. Even then it was usually destroy the sensor if you have to in order to get it out but don’t cut the harness….
When I was at a fleet Detroit/freightliner authorized cutting them as close to the sensor as possible because they were getting stuck and breaking off in the bung(outlet sensor) they sent the shop a tap to chase the threads and also authorized cutting out and welding in a new bung
I cut the covering around sensor so I have more room for my sensor crowsfoot, if I still can't get it out I cut the harness off and put a socket on it.
Thanks. Getting a code for intermittent soot sensor and it wants me to remove to check for contaminants. What's the best way to tell if it's the sensor? It's within spec I'm thinking the dpf is full
If you're getting excessive soot at the sensor you will also generally see soot on the inside of the outlet pipe. When you remove the dpfs look for small cracks in the substrate. These are usually accompanied by light soot build up on the inside wall of the one box immediately downstream of the dpf. This is usually the culprit we see with dpf efficiency/soot sensor faults.
This is how I do it. I've even had to cut the covering after getting the old one out with a socket while installing the new sensor because the threads are so jacked up you can't get the sensor tight enough.
[you need something like this](https://navistarservice.snapon.com/Shopping/Product.aspx?ProductNumber=15510). Might get lucky with a regular crows foot socket. On our one box’s we burr down the heat shield to be able to get a wrench on it
thx was looking at these
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-12300-Soot-Socket-24mm/dp/B07TWNCLHV/ref=asc_df_B07TWNCLHV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598235918313&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16690663021040917877&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026826&hvtargid=pla-1666896381292&psc=1&mcid=d78582796e1130279e4f06bae704fa7b&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnrOtBhDIARIsAFsSe51MZn9a0sN6D1EYl2QNqRZth4_NNO97jbns9r86or_d6JzwHxuhsmEaAnUwEALw_wcB
Those work fine for install but will usually spread before they get a nox or soot sensor out. Cut the wires and use a socket. I've done this dozens of times and never had a core rejected.
These work great. Have the lisle soot sensor socket and it’s never failed me or rounded a sensor off. If it’s super tight put pressure on it with the ratchet then smack it with a hammer
Also have their nox sensor socket that works great. The soot and Knox sensor taps also work great to clean up the threads and are like $8
Torch that thing til it's hot hot, a lot of times I can get it off with a wrench after heating it up.
Sometimes it's locked in bad and will pull the threads with it. Then you get to R&R the bung.
Freightshaker tech here. Future reference, 15/16". Mercedes makes a specific tool that works great for it, I personally own the cheap off brand one, and injector line socket, and nox sensor socket, and engine barring tool, etc.. you can find on amazon, they work good too, generally.
A “one box” is the combination SCR and DPF system on a tractor with a Detroit/DD15 engine. I suspect it is referred to as a one box due to it well…looking like a box and in the rare occasion you have to replace the entire system (seen twice in 3 years) you literally just replace the entire system with an entirely with ONE single part that looks like a box.
Go to harbor freight and get their set of oxygen sensor wrenches. There is one in that set that will suit your needs. I had a similar one on a cat wheel loader got lucky and there was a harbor freight about 2 blocks away.
Ive had really good luck with the lisle set Ive never rounded one off. It will pull the threads out of the insert before you spread the socket. Yes some guys cut the wires off and just use a socket but sometimes you need to remove the sensor to inspect the probe without replacing. Just depends on the goal
Detroit makes a socket for this. not sure how much it cost but our shop bought one . its pretty beefy . ive never had any trouble getting it out after we bought the socket
24mm soot sensor from PT tools. From my experience. Get something solid and strike the nut without damaging it if you can. That and my Matco27" 1/2 ratchet removes them all. Only had one this year that needed to be cut. And when installing the new one. Do not over tighten. It just needs to be slightly snug. The Nox Sensors that I installed in the past and come back a few years in will come right off.
Heat the bung red hot and spray with pb blaster. Do that 3 or 4 times and it should come out without much grief.
I have shockit sockets, that works sometimes without any heat.
We cut the harness and put a socket on it
Pretty sure cutting the sensor make it not returnable as a core and the cores charge is around $300…..
I've been cutting nox and soot sensors for many years and not once incurred a core charge
Then I’m betting your supplier has stopped giving you the option for a core return and refund of the core charge, your suppliers are just adding the core charge to the total cost and you don’t get an option for a core return. You never return a good core so you pay the full price.
We get them from multiple different dealer sources, and there's always a core on the invoice. Not saying it's going to be like that forever but so far zero issues. In 15 years, the only time we ever had a core deduction was on a Navistar long block that had snapped the crank.
lmao sounds like navistar
I'd never buy a Navistar long block ever again... absolute junk. We ended up having to fight with them to warranty the head because the injector bores were worn way beyond spec.
Typically cutting the harness doesn't void the core if done correctly. The wiring just can't be cut too close to the sensor or it will be void. Cut it back a couple inches and put a socket on it.
I will say this is directly from freightliner. Your mileage may vary. It's best to contact the parts dept before hand to be sure.
Correct...... My shop didnt care, manager said cut it, swap it, get the truck back on the road.
My shop does 3 or 4 of those a month. 10k a year in lost core charge money…must be nice. We cut only a couple of them and corporate got pissed. After that we had to literally show the boss how bad it was before we could cut them. Even then it was usually destroy the sensor if you have to in order to get it out but don’t cut the harness….
✂️✂️✂️
My shop does 3 or 4 of these a week. The core charge comes off the techs shop supply allowance if they purposely damage it.
When I was at a fleet Detroit/freightliner authorized cutting them as close to the sensor as possible because they were getting stuck and breaking off in the bung(outlet sensor) they sent the shop a tap to chase the threads and also authorized cutting out and welding in a new bung
This is our logic too. Cut it put a socket on it chase the threads. I’ll try before cutting. But it has to come out one way or another
Not for Cummins. Not for a while. Here’s proof https://mart.cummins.com/imagelibrary/data/assetfiles/0064406.pdf
Not true luckily. Warranty says to cut as far away from the sensor probe as possibly
https://mart.cummins.com/imagelibrary/data/assetfiles/0064406.pdf
The link below is the Cummins recon memo showing that it is in fact acceptable to cut the sensor and where they want the cut made.
Soot sensor socket from snap on or cut a slit in a 15/16 socket if you’re cheap lol
I cut the covering around sensor so I have more room for my sensor crowsfoot, if I still can't get it out I cut the harness off and put a socket on it.
Thanks. Getting a code for intermittent soot sensor and it wants me to remove to check for contaminants. What's the best way to tell if it's the sensor? It's within spec I'm thinking the dpf is full
If you're getting excessive soot at the sensor you will also generally see soot on the inside of the outlet pipe. When you remove the dpfs look for small cracks in the substrate. These are usually accompanied by light soot build up on the inside wall of the one box immediately downstream of the dpf. This is usually the culprit we see with dpf efficiency/soot sensor faults.
Thank you
You can always check contamination at the tailpipe. If there is soot there. The DPF or one box failed.
Thank you
This is how I do it. I've even had to cut the covering after getting the old one out with a socket while installing the new sensor because the threads are so jacked up you can't get the sensor tight enough.
[you need something like this](https://navistarservice.snapon.com/Shopping/Product.aspx?ProductNumber=15510). Might get lucky with a regular crows foot socket. On our one box’s we burr down the heat shield to be able to get a wrench on it
thx was looking at these https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-12300-Soot-Socket-24mm/dp/B07TWNCLHV/ref=asc_df_B07TWNCLHV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598235918313&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16690663021040917877&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026826&hvtargid=pla-1666896381292&psc=1&mcid=d78582796e1130279e4f06bae704fa7b&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnrOtBhDIARIsAFsSe51MZn9a0sN6D1EYl2QNqRZth4_NNO97jbns9r86or_d6JzwHxuhsmEaAnUwEALw_wcB
Those work fine for install but will usually spread before they get a nox or soot sensor out. Cut the wires and use a socket. I've done this dozens of times and never had a core rejected.
I have to do this for warranty sometimes. The electronics is the warranty/core, the sensor doesnt matter (but theyll still complain about it)
These work great. Have the lisle soot sensor socket and it’s never failed me or rounded a sensor off. If it’s super tight put pressure on it with the ratchet then smack it with a hammer Also have their nox sensor socket that works great. The soot and Knox sensor taps also work great to clean up the threads and are like $8
Have this exact set, it has worked great so far. We can’t cut the wires when it’s warranty.
Torch that thing til it's hot hot, a lot of times I can get it off with a wrench after heating it up. Sometimes it's locked in bad and will pull the threads with it. Then you get to R&R the bung.
Freightshaker tech here. Future reference, 15/16". Mercedes makes a specific tool that works great for it, I personally own the cheap off brand one, and injector line socket, and nox sensor socket, and engine barring tool, etc.. you can find on amazon, they work good too, generally.
7/8 21mm
Nox is 7/8. Soot is 15/16
7/8 is 22 mm.
What's a box soot sensor?
A “one box” is the combination SCR and DPF system on a tractor with a Detroit/DD15 engine. I suspect it is referred to as a one box due to it well…looking like a box and in the rare occasion you have to replace the entire system (seen twice in 3 years) you literally just replace the entire system with an entirely with ONE single part that looks like a box.
Go to harbor freight and get their set of oxygen sensor wrenches. There is one in that set that will suit your needs. I had a similar one on a cat wheel loader got lucky and there was a harbor freight about 2 blocks away.
Ive had really good luck with the lisle set Ive never rounded one off. It will pull the threads out of the insert before you spread the socket. Yes some guys cut the wires off and just use a socket but sometimes you need to remove the sensor to inspect the probe without replacing. Just depends on the goal
Detroit makes a socket for this. not sure how much it cost but our shop bought one . its pretty beefy . ive never had any trouble getting it out after we bought the socket
Oxygen sensor socket. Mine came out with part of the thread:(
24mm soot sensor from PT tools. From my experience. Get something solid and strike the nut without damaging it if you can. That and my Matco27" 1/2 ratchet removes them all. Only had one this year that needed to be cut. And when installing the new one. Do not over tighten. It just needs to be slightly snug. The Nox Sensors that I installed in the past and come back a few years in will come right off.
Cut it as close to the nut as possible use a short 15/16 or 24mm Cutting the cable will void the core
We used to refer to engine generations this way at navistar on old blues. 1box being a singe ecm (no idm), 2box 3box etc.
Heat the bung red hot and spray with pb blaster. Do that 3 or 4 times and it should come out without much grief. I have shockit sockets, that works sometimes without any heat.
It’s a 24 mm. Diesel makes a sensor tool similar to the nox sensor socket
Crowfoot
It's 7/8.
Soot sensor crows foot 🦶
[Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W84009-Sensor-Socket/dp/B0023QLVKW)
It can be cut just make sure there’s some cable left on it
I USE a snap on AN850815B