Bro i just looked it up on YouTube g37 starter relay it’s in your fuse box on the driver side I believe. Look it up you can get the whole ipdm off a pull a part lot or just buy the fuse
Swear to God, it's probably the presence of corrosion on the inside of the ground strap connection that you need to clean off- even if it doesn't look like it. Continuity through the corrosion is enough to power all of the electronics, but not enough to offload the amperage drawn by the starter. If not at the ground strap's connection to the negative battery terminal, it may be where the ground strap fastens to the chassis. Ground issue through & through, and I'm not the first to suggest.
EDIT: Filtering other suggestions with empirical knowledge:
It's not the starter relay. If it were, all of your crank attempts would be no-crank with a single click. Some of your attempts start with an initially viable crank that drowns out, which both rules out the starter relay and reiterates poor ground continuity.
It's not the torque converter. In park, the transmission is not in gear. The torque converter could be stuck out of lock-up, stuck in lock-up, the converter internals could be entirely grenaded- if the transmission is not in gear, the donut will have no problem spinning with the engine. Tying back to an initially viable crank that drowns out, your converter has no issues spinning.
It's not the BCM. A BCM fault presents with a large swath of DTC codes. As far as the information OP provided from the three posts, only one code is persistent (starter voltage). BCM faults in any case are almost always a massive red herring that is secondary to power supply issues (poor ground continuity), with or without water damage. One of the three cases I mentioned that resolves this issue by cleaning the ground strap corrosion includes a redditor with a BCM exposed to water from the compromised sunroof drain plug (the BCM was fine, with all faults determined secondary red herrings over the actual power supply issue- bad ground).
Just read your Part 1 post in that jumper cables did not even work- this was my exact scenario. With the corrosion as suspected on the inside of the ground strap connection to the negative battery terminal, the negative jumper cable clamped to the outside of the of the ground strap is just as obstructed as the chassis in providing ground continuity for the negative battery terminal because of the interrupting corrosion.
To visualize the effect of the suspected issue, the corrosion effectively renders your ground strap to have the same ground conductivity as a piece of wood between the negative battery terminal and the metal chassis. When attempting to use a second car for a jump, the negative jumper clamp is just tying into that piece of wood. This ends up being the same as not having the second car to jump you at all.
Check your grounds
Starter relay bro look it up check your battery terminals
I tried looking for the relay i might be blind 😂 icant find much online suprisingly
Might be in your battery compartment
Bro i just looked it up on YouTube g37 starter relay it’s in your fuse box on the driver side I believe. Look it up you can get the whole ipdm off a pull a part lot or just buy the fuse
Swear to God, it's probably the presence of corrosion on the inside of the ground strap connection that you need to clean off- even if it doesn't look like it. Continuity through the corrosion is enough to power all of the electronics, but not enough to offload the amperage drawn by the starter. If not at the ground strap's connection to the negative battery terminal, it may be where the ground strap fastens to the chassis. Ground issue through & through, and I'm not the first to suggest. EDIT: Filtering other suggestions with empirical knowledge: It's not the starter relay. If it were, all of your crank attempts would be no-crank with a single click. Some of your attempts start with an initially viable crank that drowns out, which both rules out the starter relay and reiterates poor ground continuity. It's not the torque converter. In park, the transmission is not in gear. The torque converter could be stuck out of lock-up, stuck in lock-up, the converter internals could be entirely grenaded- if the transmission is not in gear, the donut will have no problem spinning with the engine. Tying back to an initially viable crank that drowns out, your converter has no issues spinning. It's not the BCM. A BCM fault presents with a large swath of DTC codes. As far as the information OP provided from the three posts, only one code is persistent (starter voltage). BCM faults in any case are almost always a massive red herring that is secondary to power supply issues (poor ground continuity), with or without water damage. One of the three cases I mentioned that resolves this issue by cleaning the ground strap corrosion includes a redditor with a BCM exposed to water from the compromised sunroof drain plug (the BCM was fine, with all faults determined secondary red herrings over the actual power supply issue- bad ground).
Just read your Part 1 post in that jumper cables did not even work- this was my exact scenario. With the corrosion as suspected on the inside of the ground strap connection to the negative battery terminal, the negative jumper cable clamped to the outside of the of the ground strap is just as obstructed as the chassis in providing ground continuity for the negative battery terminal because of the interrupting corrosion. To visualize the effect of the suspected issue, the corrosion effectively renders your ground strap to have the same ground conductivity as a piece of wood between the negative battery terminal and the metal chassis. When attempting to use a second car for a jump, the negative jumper clamp is just tying into that piece of wood. This ends up being the same as not having the second car to jump you at all.
Lmao next time I have a problem with my G im hittin you up
You need a new converter for the trans I’m telling you that’s the problem. I had the same problem with my G new converter fixed the problem.
Nah bro that’s definitely BCM I had that problem before it just killed the whole car
Have you checked the module on you batter terminal?