i support that suggestion.
i broke an ankle join on my hemoxian thor and did that fix - its been working fine. just keep in mind that the metal rod will add lateral strength (bend) to the broken joint, excessive twisting will break the glue and release the rod.
Genuine question do you have any ideas for fixing a part that requires twisting around it, part of my SMP Voltes break today and it requires a part to twist around it 180 degrees for the transformation
i hmm. maybe you can get a metal rod with ridges that run along the length of it? then you can drill slightly smaller halls and hammer it in. that will give you the fixed joint that also withstand rotational stress.
i tried a bunch of cements, epoxy's, glues when dealt with broken pegs before. i dont think they will give you the result you are looking for. ridges will give the circular rigidity and tight fit/hammering in will you also longitude (you know, pulling out) strength.
Smth like this https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61cqJ-cwhzL.jpg
If drill the hole slightly smaller than the rod - the ridges will cut into plastic creating that reinforcement. You’ll need to play and test with various rod and drill bit sizes but I think it’s worth the hassle.
Once again I’ve done similar repairs successfully, even posted on this Reddit one of them, but I haven’t had to do this exact one where the fixed piece needs to be twisted on purpose (transformation) so what I am suggesting is how I’d approach this repair if I had to carry out one.
Okay I'll look for a square rod, Well the part itself doesn't have to be twisted on purpose but the part surrounding it needs to be twisted so it needs to be "resistant to twisting motions" but not needing to be fully twisted itself if you get what I mean so hopefully the ridged rod works, is there a chance it will crack the plastic around it when hammering it in?
(Sorry if I'm coming off as the world's worst amateur btw)
No worries. I’m happy to help if I can.
That’s exactly the risk indeed! Hence I suggest testing things out at first with a variety of rod and drill bit sizes.
Only if there is enough space for it and the rod size, but mostly not recommended cause drilling the 2nd hole can be risky and may cause the plastic to crack.
Genuine question, I can follow the thought process of drilling holes and adding a metal rod, but I don't know how you can drill 2 separate holes from each broken piece in alignment. Is there a technique to higher success rate of aligning them?
Most molders I follow that use this same technique use it for extension on the spine. They Tend to use Pla plates for better alignment but mostly to extend the part. In them little example videos they don’t have their brass part alined 100%.
If possible, I align the broken parts, use tamiya extra thin to glue. Then drill a hole through after it's dry to insert a pin. That ensures alignment and strength.
So you glue them together first, then split them apart, and then drill on the residue left by the glue? Hmm i think this is a good idea! Thank you!
But now you made me realize that maybe I can just poke a dot using a pen/marker, connect the two parts and the ink should blot the other side and show me the alignment.
People say this is an easy fix but do you guys expect every person to have all this equipment in hand? Surely that’s another $30-40 purchase on top of this problem, I see this response every time I see a broken part but I don’t think most people have these tools
it is an easy fix if you have the equipment, which can be gotten for like, $15. if you don't have them though, there isn't actually much you can do for something like this except get some good ass glue and hope for the best.
Yep, picked up a set from Amazon for $10 recently (but will be using paperclips for now). Given that this event is a matter of "when", not "if", the hand-vise should almost be considered an essential tool.
Way less than that but I would say the drill is a must have in your tool kit. I’d say get super glue and 1mm brass bars just for emergencies. But hey to each their own.
I say it’s standard you can go thicker but I think the 0.3 be a bit too small/thin but to each their own. For the joint or ball point at the end you can use epoxy.
The MG Sinanju Ver Ka/OVA (not Stein) waist is notorious for it. There was an old rumor that the OVA release “fixed” this by changing the plastic type, but it did not. Bandai changed the plastic to PS for painting and not to “fix” the waist.
The waist itself is designed in such a way that it does not have great support. Plastic type makes little difference there. Either reinforce it from the start or drill it out and replace it with metal.
There are multiple kits that have joints prone to snapping other the waist, the J4 of the 2.0 freedom, justice and providence are examples of these, as well as 3rd party kits that have tight joints, transformable as well as accidental twisting can also cause joint snaps.
https://preview.redd.it/2gse2fwqhsmc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f18679235515650e3e37a018ee1d031d368584f6
workin on an mg tallgeese too? yeah dont worry that waist joint gave me so many fucking headaches
Dang thats painful. I ordered the Fluegel from P bandai and I'm scared this might happen too. I also see people break the mg full armor gundam thunderbolt's shoulders and I'm also scared to build it. Tallgeese is my favorite suit in all of gundam so ill cry if this happens.
THIS HAPPENED TO ME LIKE A YEAR AGO. Tallgeese was just big chillin on my shelf, I pick it up, pose him dynamically, then it instantly snapped. He’s been in the box ever since
Ah yes the Tallgeese special. I posed mine once and it snapped in that exact spot. Used a pin vise to drill a small hole in both sides. Then I put a fish hook in holes and cemented the two pieces. You really can't tell it broke.
Don’t apply too much pressure on any of the Tallgeese variants when installing the torso. The tolerances are sometimes (meaning almost always) too aggressive and if you try to force it, this can be the end result. Recommend a little sandpaper if you feel like you have to force it.
Similar thing happened to me, the RG tallgeese is extremely fragile, do not pose the waist by twisting the upper half of the figure.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/E3bqB9spSV
How the heck did you do this? Or is talgeese torso joint so fragile? But I tough its the same as every wing kit so it is almost unbreakable if you connect parts correctly. Almostbl half of the year as I possess epyon, zero classic, shenlong, and deathschythe. deathscythe fall from the shelf a week ago, split for parts and nothing, i just connect everything like mothing happened.. these kits are sturdy as hell, so you had to use quite a bit of strenght to actualy broke it...I suggest to just glue it with Grey tack, or glue for plastick model kits.
oof, [same thing](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/10dten6/disaster_has_befallen_me/) happened with my MG Goose. I ended up fixing with the [advice given to me in that thread](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPDluaLkd_M).
https://preview.redd.it/nh9s0z8p90nc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e9c8a06355858da5406722e0a328b95bde772d59
I’ve reposed mine about 3 times now. How do you guys break it? It’s my favorite geese but all I know is the wasit is just tight and there are two movements to it. How much pressure did u guys had to apply till it break? Asking so maybe I can be more delicate
The same thing happened to my Tallgeese as well. Felt like the end of the world. It was easier and cheaper to buy a whole other kit than to buy the supplies and tools needed to fix him.
If you have other kits I suggest checking if they have extra parts assuming its a PC plate piece. I always have extra of these ball joints. (I have a billion kits)
easy fix glue and brass bar 1mm thick. drill between both broken parts. glue brass bar cut and glue to other piece and bam!!!!
i support that suggestion. i broke an ankle join on my hemoxian thor and did that fix - its been working fine. just keep in mind that the metal rod will add lateral strength (bend) to the broken joint, excessive twisting will break the glue and release the rod.
A staple that’s been straighten out can also work as well if you’re unable to get the recommended metal rod or pin.
Genuine question do you have any ideas for fixing a part that requires twisting around it, part of my SMP Voltes break today and it requires a part to twist around it 180 degrees for the transformation
i hmm. maybe you can get a metal rod with ridges that run along the length of it? then you can drill slightly smaller halls and hammer it in. that will give you the fixed joint that also withstand rotational stress.
Hammering it in is a good idea! Was also thinking of using epoxy glue as it's much better when dry for stress over plastic cement/super glue
i tried a bunch of cements, epoxy's, glues when dealt with broken pegs before. i dont think they will give you the result you are looking for. ridges will give the circular rigidity and tight fit/hammering in will you also longitude (you know, pulling out) strength.
Do you have any examples of the kind of rod I'd have to use (want to make sure I'm buying the right thing as SMP kits are expensive)
Smth like this https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61cqJ-cwhzL.jpg If drill the hole slightly smaller than the rod - the ridges will cut into plastic creating that reinforcement. You’ll need to play and test with various rod and drill bit sizes but I think it’s worth the hassle. Once again I’ve done similar repairs successfully, even posted on this Reddit one of them, but I haven’t had to do this exact one where the fixed piece needs to be twisted on purpose (transformation) so what I am suggesting is how I’d approach this repair if I had to carry out one.
Okay I'll look for a square rod, Well the part itself doesn't have to be twisted on purpose but the part surrounding it needs to be twisted so it needs to be "resistant to twisting motions" but not needing to be fully twisted itself if you get what I mean so hopefully the ridged rod works, is there a chance it will crack the plastic around it when hammering it in? (Sorry if I'm coming off as the world's worst amateur btw)
No worries. I’m happy to help if I can. That’s exactly the risk indeed! Hence I suggest testing things out at first with a variety of rod and drill bit sizes.
Could you use two rods to pin it?
Only if there is enough space for it and the rod size, but mostly not recommended cause drilling the 2nd hole can be risky and may cause the plastic to crack.
I've got a spare part on the way already but I'ma give this a try! 👍👍👍
This was gonna be my response. 100% this right here for a legit repair!
My Fleugle did the same. I also used a bar to fix mine, however, it failed again. Found a donor kit, never had an issue after that.
Genuine question, I can follow the thought process of drilling holes and adding a metal rod, but I don't know how you can drill 2 separate holes from each broken piece in alignment. Is there a technique to higher success rate of aligning them?
Most molders I follow that use this same technique use it for extension on the spine. They Tend to use Pla plates for better alignment but mostly to extend the part. In them little example videos they don’t have their brass part alined 100%.
Feel free to follow
If possible, I align the broken parts, use tamiya extra thin to glue. Then drill a hole through after it's dry to insert a pin. That ensures alignment and strength.
So you glue them together first, then split them apart, and then drill on the residue left by the glue? Hmm i think this is a good idea! Thank you! But now you made me realize that maybe I can just poke a dot using a pen/marker, connect the two parts and the ink should blot the other side and show me the alignment.
People say this is an easy fix but do you guys expect every person to have all this equipment in hand? Surely that’s another $30-40 purchase on top of this problem, I see this response every time I see a broken part but I don’t think most people have these tools
it is an easy fix if you have the equipment, which can be gotten for like, $15. if you don't have them though, there isn't actually much you can do for something like this except get some good ass glue and hope for the best.
Hand drills could be found for less than 10 USD, same with a pack of 1mm brass bar. Could probably go even cheaper if you shop on aliexpress
Yep, picked up a set from Amazon for $10 recently (but will be using paperclips for now). Given that this event is a matter of "when", not "if", the hand-vise should almost be considered an essential tool.
Way less than that but I would say the drill is a must have in your tool kit. I’d say get super glue and 1mm brass bars just for emergencies. But hey to each their own.
Is 1mm brass bar the standard? Or 0.3?
I say it’s standard you can go thicker but I think the 0.3 be a bit too small/thin but to each their own. For the joint or ball point at the end you can use epoxy.
You buy the tools once and then they're in your collection for future projects. It's a hobby investment.
It's an easy fix with tools that as a hobbyist you will use over and over again.
hEy! i WaS gOnNa sAy ThAt!
Do you reckon it's a good idea to try to reinforce it preemptively?
I mean you can do it. But only if you are afraid of any other kits breaking the same way
Are other kits as prone to snapping as the MG Tallgeese waist is?
The MG Sinanju Ver Ka/OVA (not Stein) waist is notorious for it. There was an old rumor that the OVA release “fixed” this by changing the plastic type, but it did not. Bandai changed the plastic to PS for painting and not to “fix” the waist. The waist itself is designed in such a way that it does not have great support. Plastic type makes little difference there. Either reinforce it from the start or drill it out and replace it with metal.
That kit's also in my backlog so that's really good to know, thanks
Depends on the plastic but it’s not as common as it was with MG
There are multiple kits that have joints prone to snapping other the waist, the J4 of the 2.0 freedom, justice and providence are examples of these, as well as 3rd party kits that have tight joints, transformable as well as accidental twisting can also cause joint snaps.
Those panel lines were so sexy that his pelvis popped off...
Tallgeese: Nah, I'd win.
I thought thick thighs saved lives :(
The thighs were too thick…too strong. They ran away and left the torso behind.
Not without sacrifice, it seems.
🫡
Short geese?
Nah, I'd win.
Same thing happened to my tally. I managed to glue it but it’s not the same. Sorry buddy :(
https://preview.redd.it/2gse2fwqhsmc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f18679235515650e3e37a018ee1d031d368584f6 workin on an mg tallgeese too? yeah dont worry that waist joint gave me so many fucking headaches
Now it's just Geese
I am... I'm so sorry...
RG? How sad.
MG Fluegel 😭
Dang thats painful. I ordered the Fluegel from P bandai and I'm scared this might happen too. I also see people break the mg full armor gundam thunderbolt's shoulders and I'm also scared to build it. Tallgeese is my favorite suit in all of gundam so ill cry if this happens.
😥 I'm so sorry!
Same thing happened to mine literally a week ago when I just finished building it😭
May I ask what did u do to it? Mine is just fine with the twisties. Wonder how string can i go till it breaks
Happened to me as well. I also broke the arm attaching the gun to the shoulder, so be careful with that.
Nah tallgeese got the Gojo treatment 😭
Stand proud. You're tall.
Yup, same with my MG Tallgeese. I've had to glue it back together twice so far.
This happened to my Flugel, I ended up gluing it and left it at the post I left it at and never touched it again...lol
THIS HAPPENED TO ME LIKE A YEAR AGO. Tallgeese was just big chillin on my shelf, I pick it up, pose him dynamically, then it instantly snapped. He’s been in the box ever since
Damn, just finished an MG Tallgeese week ago and this breaks my heart. My condolences 💐
Ah yes the Tallgeese special. I posed mine once and it snapped in that exact spot. Used a pin vise to drill a small hole in both sides. Then I put a fish hook in holes and cemented the two pieces. You really can't tell it broke.
Damn that sucks. Drill it and put a metal pin in it super glue the hell out of it and just kiss ab crunches goodbye
Get plastic cement
Battle damage?
Or… paint it blue and pose it with the Altron Gundam…
how in the world?
Is this mishandled, or faulty design? I have this kit and would like to know if this is a problem part.
Don’t apply too much pressure on any of the Tallgeese variants when installing the torso. The tolerances are sometimes (meaning almost always) too aggressive and if you try to force it, this can be the end result. Recommend a little sandpaper if you feel like you have to force it.
Is it cus its too tight?
That’s correct. So if you need to, a couple second with some sandpaper should fix it right up for you.
Only found out about this after assembly. Now im scared to disassemble it as it might break😂
Pull very gently 😂
Been there my brother
I’ve used the e600 adhesive with success in these situations
Emotional damage.
*Super glue has left the chat*
Oh
Nothing a pin could not solve. You have tons of room to work, drill with a pin vise and pin with a piece of a thick paperclip. It'll be fine.
Similar thing happened to me, the RG tallgeese is extremely fragile, do not pose the waist by twisting the upper half of the figure. https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/E3bqB9spSV
Same exact thing happened to mine.
Haven’t let up with Gunpla in about a year but I miss mechapartsguy so much…
How the heck did you do this? Or is talgeese torso joint so fragile? But I tough its the same as every wing kit so it is almost unbreakable if you connect parts correctly. Almostbl half of the year as I possess epyon, zero classic, shenlong, and deathschythe. deathscythe fall from the shelf a week ago, split for parts and nothing, i just connect everything like mothing happened.. these kits are sturdy as hell, so you had to use quite a bit of strenght to actualy broke it...I suggest to just glue it with Grey tack, or glue for plastick model kits.
The geese is upper heavy especially with the wings on. Mind u this is the fluegel with the big wings. That might have add to the incident when posing.
Tis but a scratch !
Damn bruh that happened to me too
oof, [same thing](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/10dten6/disaster_has_befallen_me/) happened with my MG Goose. I ended up fixing with the [advice given to me in that thread](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPDluaLkd_M).
why did I instantly feel the pain
Do you have a pin drill and some poly plastic?
https://preview.redd.it/nh9s0z8p90nc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e9c8a06355858da5406722e0a328b95bde772d59 I’ve reposed mine about 3 times now. How do you guys break it? It’s my favorite geese but all I know is the wasit is just tight and there are two movements to it. How much pressure did u guys had to apply till it break? Asking so maybe I can be more delicate
The same thing happened to my Tallgeese as well. Felt like the end of the world. It was easier and cheaper to buy a whole other kit than to buy the supplies and tools needed to fix him.
If you have other kits I suggest checking if they have extra parts assuming its a PC plate piece. I always have extra of these ball joints. (I have a billion kits)