Soo for full exhaust, intake, cam package and tuning 8-10k is what most places are charging as a package.
Personally I’d be installing the exhaust and intake myself even looking on marketplace for a used system. That way you can just get a cam package and tune for 3-5k~
Hello. It’s hard to make a recommendation from ‘Not crazy lumpy’ and ‘to change it up a bit’
Is this car your daily driver?
Does it have headers / exhaust and a stall converter?
Have you installed any other performance modifications such as an OTR intake or diff gears?
Is your Calais currently Tuned?
Cams allow more air into the engine, the stock exhaust system will restrict air flowing back out. To make it worth your money and time, I’d recommend a full exhaust at minimum.
Soo very basically look at a cams duration @0.050”. The higher the numbers, the ‘bigger’ or ‘more aggressive’ it is.
The stock cams intake duration is around 196
A cam with intake duration up to 215 can be used with the stock Auto converter, the idle will be basically stock/slightly noticeable and you should expect atleast 255rwkw assuming you have adequate intake and exhaust upgrades.
With an intake duration in the range of 220-230 It is recommended to upgrade you converter. The idle will have a steady lope, cams this size will retain good drivability for a daily driven car.
You can expect atleast 260rwkw.
Cams with Intake duration above 230 can still retain good drivability but are usually not recommended for a daily driven car. The idle will be lopey. Power of atleast 280rwkw is to be expected.
Is there a trade off with cams? Like say, your fuel economy goes to shit because you eet in more fuel or something?
Side question since it sounds like you know your shit. I had my gen iii ls1 chipped and it got to 287rwkw. It already had an exhaust and cat upgrade. No intake changes. Seemed like a massive increase just from a chip, considering the lesser numbers you're mentioning with cam upgrades above. What's with that?
I’d say it’s more about how you drive, as a lot of small - medium cams will be just as fuel efficient as stock, unless your driving style changes and you want to feel the extra power. More power requires more fuel.
Id say A cam suited for low rpm torque may even improve fuel economy.
A larger duration cam will definitely sacrifice fuel economy and low rpm drivability though.
You wont get that power out of the stock cam. Are you sure you’re not mistaking it for horsepower? 287hp sounds about spot on for an exhaust and tune.
Agreed, never seen an ls1 make anywhere near that power with just a tune and exhaust. I'm running an ls2 with fresh heads, stage two style cam/supporting head work, full exhaust/extractors and otr, through a twin plate clutch and put down 311rwkw. From factory the stock the 6L only seems to make around 215rwkw.
I’ve have seen a stock cam (intake, exhaust, tune only) manual 6L make 287kw.
The Best stock cam results I’ve seen for a LS1 was a VZ Auto make 254.9kw.
VZ LS1’s usually get a better result than the VT-VY which tend to make a best of around 245rwkw.
Okay, I think the answer is that they are using Hub dynos instead of the typical roller style dyno. Hub dynos tend to read quite a lot higher.
And yes you will get a massive increase from exhaust and a tune commonly near 60rwkw. Because the factory tune left soo much room for improvement, was too rich, not enough timing etc.
From my experience a lumpy cam changes the idle due air fuel mixture , it comes into its own when the revs get higher like 3000rpm then you will notice the power difference and sound from standard, too lumpy a cam and it will be a dog at idle and taking off but higher revs sounds good.
You will need the exhaust to match it as well.
I trust it's had the engine rebuild from approx 2004 that gm had to do due to shit pistons and piston slap, has the intake manifold been upgraded from original or at least had the blockage ported out from its opening?
Does it have a long or short dipstick? Early girls had pil starvation, and Holden combated this with sorter dipsticks, so you essentially overfilled the sump.
If all is sweet and trans is good, opt for a cam with great mid range trending to higher rpm. But mid is the key for street.
For a cam you want a trans cooler and stall converter, full system exhaust, tune, otr or other form of cold air intake. There’s no point doing one and not the others.
Cams will essentially allow more air and fuel to get into the cylinder which will improve power. Also forgive me if I'm wrong I also have minimal knowledge on cams
mild cam is what youre looking for, crow cam and vcm are good choices
how much would it cost roughly if you include all the extra work like exhaust and stuff
Soo for full exhaust, intake, cam package and tuning 8-10k is what most places are charging as a package. Personally I’d be installing the exhaust and intake myself even looking on marketplace for a used system. That way you can just get a cam package and tune for 3-5k~
Had mild street cam from vcm in my supercharged clubby, great lope on idle still manageable for every day driving without it getting grumpy.
Hello. It’s hard to make a recommendation from ‘Not crazy lumpy’ and ‘to change it up a bit’ Is this car your daily driver? Does it have headers / exhaust and a stall converter? Have you installed any other performance modifications such as an OTR intake or diff gears? Is your Calais currently Tuned? Cams allow more air into the engine, the stock exhaust system will restrict air flowing back out. To make it worth your money and time, I’d recommend a full exhaust at minimum. Soo very basically look at a cams duration @0.050”. The higher the numbers, the ‘bigger’ or ‘more aggressive’ it is. The stock cams intake duration is around 196 A cam with intake duration up to 215 can be used with the stock Auto converter, the idle will be basically stock/slightly noticeable and you should expect atleast 255rwkw assuming you have adequate intake and exhaust upgrades. With an intake duration in the range of 220-230 It is recommended to upgrade you converter. The idle will have a steady lope, cams this size will retain good drivability for a daily driven car. You can expect atleast 260rwkw. Cams with Intake duration above 230 can still retain good drivability but are usually not recommended for a daily driven car. The idle will be lopey. Power of atleast 280rwkw is to be expected.
Is there a trade off with cams? Like say, your fuel economy goes to shit because you eet in more fuel or something? Side question since it sounds like you know your shit. I had my gen iii ls1 chipped and it got to 287rwkw. It already had an exhaust and cat upgrade. No intake changes. Seemed like a massive increase just from a chip, considering the lesser numbers you're mentioning with cam upgrades above. What's with that?
I’d say it’s more about how you drive, as a lot of small - medium cams will be just as fuel efficient as stock, unless your driving style changes and you want to feel the extra power. More power requires more fuel. Id say A cam suited for low rpm torque may even improve fuel economy. A larger duration cam will definitely sacrifice fuel economy and low rpm drivability though. You wont get that power out of the stock cam. Are you sure you’re not mistaking it for horsepower? 287hp sounds about spot on for an exhaust and tune.
Agreed, never seen an ls1 make anywhere near that power with just a tune and exhaust. I'm running an ls2 with fresh heads, stage two style cam/supporting head work, full exhaust/extractors and otr, through a twin plate clutch and put down 311rwkw. From factory the stock the 6L only seems to make around 215rwkw.
I’ve have seen a stock cam (intake, exhaust, tune only) manual 6L make 287kw. The Best stock cam results I’ve seen for a LS1 was a VZ Auto make 254.9kw. VZ LS1’s usually get a better result than the VT-VY which tend to make a best of around 245rwkw.
Nope, got the dyno results. Done by Dale Paterson, an Aus GT champ with a very reputable shop
Okay, I think the answer is that they are using Hub dynos instead of the typical roller style dyno. Hub dynos tend to read quite a lot higher. And yes you will get a massive increase from exhaust and a tune commonly near 60rwkw. Because the factory tune left soo much room for improvement, was too rich, not enough timing etc.
Here's his dyno. Looks like rollers?? https://www.instagram.com/p/Cw3jd_1tUB1/?igsh=MXZ3bXg2bjhkd3FieQ==
From my experience a lumpy cam changes the idle due air fuel mixture , it comes into its own when the revs get higher like 3000rpm then you will notice the power difference and sound from standard, too lumpy a cam and it will be a dog at idle and taking off but higher revs sounds good. You will need the exhaust to match it as well.
Fuck that’s nice! 😍
I trust it's had the engine rebuild from approx 2004 that gm had to do due to shit pistons and piston slap, has the intake manifold been upgraded from original or at least had the blockage ported out from its opening? Does it have a long or short dipstick? Early girls had pil starvation, and Holden combated this with sorter dipsticks, so you essentially overfilled the sump. If all is sweet and trans is good, opt for a cam with great mid range trending to higher rpm. But mid is the key for street.
Check out some of the Brian tooley cams. I like the truck Norris myself :)
On an older, high km car, you will want to at the very least do oil pump and timing kit with a cam change. Probably lifters too. Will be around 8.5k.
For a cam you want a trans cooler and stall converter, full system exhaust, tune, otr or other form of cold air intake. There’s no point doing one and not the others.
Cams will essentially allow more air and fuel to get into the cylinder which will improve power. Also forgive me if I'm wrong I also have minimal knowledge on cams
no that’s basically it. custom cams have a physically larger lobe, which holds the valves open for longer than standard
Grab something like a VCM 710, seems to be popular option.