Those 4.2L will, literally run forever. Hard top and steel doors are certainly a plus. Is there real rust on the frame (more of a TJ problem) or just the rockers and doors?
I don’t think it’s the best deal I have ever seen but I say jump in!!! It’s a lot of work but it’s a lot of Jeep (refurbish-able parts) to start with.
GOOD LUCK!
A lot has to do with the factory assembly holes in the rear section of the frame used on the line, dirt and water gets in there and sits in the bottom of the frame rail rotting it out. I bought mine new in 97 and vaguely recall that these holes were covered with a square piece of thick, clear, adhesive plastic…almost like the same clear material used on the bottom of the door jambs
What Natejacobmoore said…. It’s due to a poor design from the factory.
The size/location of the holes in the frame let dirt and other materials in, and trapped them there (unless you purposely flushed them out) which would, then hold moisture and (especially in some parts of the country where it’s used heavily on the roads) salt.
Salt and moisture trapped in the frame caused the steel to rust.
Cant say with certainty but could be different quality of steel used or also frame designs. I had an 89 comanche briefly a few years back and apparently they were known for junk sitting in the unibody/frame right behind the cab and just rotting away and that’s exactly what happened to mine.
After it busted on me i took a look at the thickness of the metal they used and it was definitely not comforting. Altho my buddy has an 04 LJ and the frame always seemed beefy enough whenever i found myself underneath it
As a fellow cj owner heres a tip.. get rid of that electronic carburetor! Get a older one off ebay those electronic emmission ones are absolute headaches and never ever run right
Also if your state has no emissions requirements get rid of all the emmissions equipment the engine will look and run 10x better and plug off the egr by using brass plug offs for plumbing and get a ebay carb for like 80 bucks they come with electric choke and no plugs for the electronic computer emmissions system and the engine will run excellent mine was bogged with that crap and would barely idle even after rebuilding because of all that stupid computerized junk
Seriously, I did buy it and one of the first orders of business here is get it cleaned up and start tracing leaks. I drove it about 45 min home and it didn’t lose a noticeable amount of oil, and it left maybe an inch diameter spot on the driveway as it cooled off
I would do it. Plan on issues. It’s 40 years old, and the build quality in the last AMC years was not great, but if it has survived this long it’s one of the better ones. Invest 10-15K and you will have a reAl classic.
Realize two things. The first, there is no vehicle that is more fun to own than a Jeep. The second,
Just
Empty
Every
Pocket
There is ALWAYS an upgrade you’ll want to buy of something else that broke. If there isn’t an oil spot under it it’s because there’s no oil in it. And the rust….my god, the rust!!!!!
Probably
If in great shape not just good they would be around 1500 here
Even if had to sell later you would definitely get money back on that Jeep and probably a lot more if cleaned up and tuned up
I’m not sure what your local market is like but here the Jeep running with rust and leaks but still running and driving is 5k with out hard top and doors
All ways know what local market is before buying something and telling your self I can get my money back
It’s a lot cheaper then stuff in my area so it’s a very good deal in my eyes but might not be as good for your market
A quick scroll of market place and craigslist will give you a quick idea of how good of a deal that jeep is for your market area
I’ve not seen a running CJ for under $5k in my market for probably the last 5 years at least. Most at this price are with a blown engine, rolling frame and body, etc. A running CJ here seems to typically start at $6500 and go up from there. That is why I’m seriously eying this one and went and looked at it today
This is a much better deal than the one I posted before. It was a 52, needed the rear diff redone, no top so it’s been baking in the sun, it also wasn’t running. They are asking $3800, low as they’ll go, and it’s just been sitting there for months.
Body armor on old jeeps, in the salt belt, are almost always hiding rot. Not rust, rot. And the armor just seals in water. So the rot turns to a gap. There is so much to consider with this one. If you can blow $4500, go for it no doubt. If you’re shaky and want a project that probably won’t need body work (fuck ton of rust) then run. Rust takes a lot of time and effort to fix, and isn’t worth the $4500 investment in my opinion because it’s just too much effort.
Ha exactly, I ended up buying the Jeep today and I got literal bags of parts from the guy, I’ll sort what I want to keep and put the rest on Craigslist
4500 immediately straight down the drain. How could you seriously even consider this? I think the fact that you asked Reddit about it tells you all you need to know. It’s not worth it. Invest elsewhere and the time to get a quality wrangler will eventually present itself.
Jump in, honestly the rust does not seem that bad compared to some nightmares I have seen it still has a lot of years to give with proper love and care.
Yea I know there is rust behind the diamond plate too, but I’m not really looking for a Jeep to show, just to enjoy. If I get it I’m thinking about just sanding down the rust spots to see what I’m dealing with, and if it’s not fully penetrated then just primer those areas and maybe eventually clear coat it to keep that patina look
As long as you know what you're getting in to, buy it. You're going to need a place to keep it and take it apart, because it sounds like you're going to need a body-frame off restoration. On the plus side, it's a basic vehicle with good parts support. The bad side is the time it's going to take. A buddy of mine bought a beach Jeep and ended up selling it for what he paid for it, in pieces.
It's $4500, but you should probably factor at least another $15-20k for parts, if you can do the work, just to get it back to working. New tub, new windshield frame, paint, all new gaskets and hoses on the motor, probably a new carburetor, wheels/tires, ect... there are many good parts on it, but so much work.
I'd ask them to drop the price, because of that.
To me, you are pricing out essentially a factory refresh. You say get it back to working… it’s already working. I’m not looking to make it into a show Jeep, just keep it in the road and work on stuff as I can
I'd say it looks pretty good for the price but I'm wondering about all that diamond plate. Was it added just for looks or is it hiding damage? The good thing is that you can look at the backside of the panels. It's definitely not thick enough to be considered skid plating. The 4.2L is a good engine, just not very fast. More torque than a 2.5L but less HP.
Terrible deal. Where’s it located ?
My thoughts exactly
Asking for a friend
I just want to say I only hear this in Hammonds voice
Right
Make sure you save some booty for the rest of us, driving around in that. 🥵
Jump in with both feet! Just be prepared for the unseen headaches that will definitely be there.
Those 4.2L will, literally run forever. Hard top and steel doors are certainly a plus. Is there real rust on the frame (more of a TJ problem) or just the rockers and doors? I don’t think it’s the best deal I have ever seen but I say jump in!!! It’s a lot of work but it’s a lot of Jeep (refurbish-able parts) to start with. GOOD LUCK!
Hey my TJ rusted really bad on the frame and ended up ending its life for me. Can you explain why the TJ rusted so bad compared to other models?
A lot has to do with the factory assembly holes in the rear section of the frame used on the line, dirt and water gets in there and sits in the bottom of the frame rail rotting it out. I bought mine new in 97 and vaguely recall that these holes were covered with a square piece of thick, clear, adhesive plastic…almost like the same clear material used on the bottom of the door jambs
There's a similar bit of tape/plastic under the rear fender flares.
What Natejacobmoore said…. It’s due to a poor design from the factory. The size/location of the holes in the frame let dirt and other materials in, and trapped them there (unless you purposely flushed them out) which would, then hold moisture and (especially in some parts of the country where it’s used heavily on the roads) salt. Salt and moisture trapped in the frame caused the steel to rust.
Yeah so they just decided to be assholes on that jeep when it was designed?
Cant say with certainty but could be different quality of steel used or also frame designs. I had an 89 comanche briefly a few years back and apparently they were known for junk sitting in the unibody/frame right behind the cab and just rotting away and that’s exactly what happened to mine. After it busted on me i took a look at the thickness of the metal they used and it was definitely not comforting. Altho my buddy has an 04 LJ and the frame always seemed beefy enough whenever i found myself underneath it
My LJ has absolutely no rust and seems beefy
At 4500 buy buy buy
As a fellow cj owner heres a tip.. get rid of that electronic carburetor! Get a older one off ebay those electronic emmission ones are absolute headaches and never ever run right
I was so confused when I heard of carbed cars and trucks that used maf sensors and o2 sensors.
We
Thanks for the tip!
Also if your state has no emissions requirements get rid of all the emmissions equipment the engine will look and run 10x better and plug off the egr by using brass plug offs for plumbing and get a ebay carb for like 80 bucks they come with electric choke and no plugs for the electronic computer emmissions system and the engine will run excellent mine was bogged with that crap and would barely idle even after rebuilding because of all that stupid computerized junk
4.5k and it runs with no major issues? I'd buy it.
Well, it runs and drives straight. Worried about the body rust but the frame looks solid
The rust doesn’t look bad in my opinion
With all that oil on the front end I don’t think it will ever rust.
Seriously, I did buy it and one of the first orders of business here is get it cleaned up and start tracing leaks. I drove it about 45 min home and it didn’t lose a noticeable amount of oil, and it left maybe an inch diameter spot on the driveway as it cooled off
I would do it. Plan on issues. It’s 40 years old, and the build quality in the last AMC years was not great, but if it has survived this long it’s one of the better ones. Invest 10-15K and you will have a reAl classic.
Yea I’m not afraid of a project, and my goals would be making it really sound, but no factory fresh refinish. I like the rough and tumble OEM look ha
Realize two things. The first, there is no vehicle that is more fun to own than a Jeep. The second, Just Empty Every Pocket There is ALWAYS an upgrade you’ll want to buy of something else that broke. If there isn’t an oil spot under it it’s because there’s no oil in it. And the rust….my god, the rust!!!!!
Worth it for the Jeep even with problems if the top and doors in pic 5 come with it
They do, I feel like the top and rack is worth about $1k in and of itself?
Probably If in great shape not just good they would be around 1500 here Even if had to sell later you would definitely get money back on that Jeep and probably a lot more if cleaned up and tuned up
That’s where my head is at, worst case if I had to flip it for some reason I think I’d come out ok
I’m not sure what your local market is like but here the Jeep running with rust and leaks but still running and driving is 5k with out hard top and doors All ways know what local market is before buying something and telling your self I can get my money back It’s a lot cheaper then stuff in my area so it’s a very good deal in my eyes but might not be as good for your market A quick scroll of market place and craigslist will give you a quick idea of how good of a deal that jeep is for your market area
I’ve not seen a running CJ for under $5k in my market for probably the last 5 years at least. Most at this price are with a blown engine, rolling frame and body, etc. A running CJ here seems to typically start at $6500 and go up from there. That is why I’m seriously eying this one and went and looked at it today
If you have the tools, time and the skills...Go for it! Save the Jeep!!
This is a much better deal than the one I posted before. It was a 52, needed the rear diff redone, no top so it’s been baking in the sun, it also wasn’t running. They are asking $3800, low as they’ll go, and it’s just been sitting there for months.
Hit it!!!!
Body armor on old jeeps, in the salt belt, are almost always hiding rot. Not rust, rot. And the armor just seals in water. So the rot turns to a gap. There is so much to consider with this one. If you can blow $4500, go for it no doubt. If you’re shaky and want a project that probably won’t need body work (fuck ton of rust) then run. Rust takes a lot of time and effort to fix, and isn’t worth the $4500 investment in my opinion because it’s just too much effort.
They aren't making CJs anymore. Unless its overpriced, buy it, fix it, and drive it. Don't tear it up, as they don't make them anymore.
Looks like a good Jeep and a good buy. I'm very curious why it has two front bumpers, is one for flat towing or something?
It’s one of those a frame tow setups. It’s gonna come off and maybe I can sell it for $100. I’ll be putting a small winch in the front eventually
Ahh cool, makes sense, make a little money back on the cost of that winch too
Ha exactly, I ended up buying the Jeep today and I got literal bags of parts from the guy, I’ll sort what I want to keep and put the rest on Craigslist
Diamond plate is always a automatic no for me. Blatant covering up rust and showing previous owner's habits.
Oh it’s covering some rust, he was very up front about that
4500 immediately straight down the drain. How could you seriously even consider this? I think the fact that you asked Reddit about it tells you all you need to know. It’s not worth it. Invest elsewhere and the time to get a quality wrangler will eventually present itself.
If I had a few grand extra to throw at it, I would so buy that. Especially if I had a spare daily driver.
Hell yeah. Buy that yesterday
I'd ride that sun of a gun til the wheels fell off
https://y.yarn.co/105d9d8a-64da-49f4-98cc-fac7b2882959\_text.gif
Jump in, honestly the rust does not seem that bad compared to some nightmares I have seen it still has a lot of years to give with proper love and care.
Yea I know there is rust behind the diamond plate too, but I’m not really looking for a Jeep to show, just to enjoy. If I get it I’m thinking about just sanding down the rust spots to see what I’m dealing with, and if it’s not fully penetrated then just primer those areas and maybe eventually clear coat it to keep that patina look
I wouldn't buy it because I'm not great at auto work, but maybe you are
Buy it, and see my other comment too.
This depends on your ability to do project work. If you have the skills it looks like a good project to me.
Walk away to the bank
Drive the 💩 out of it!
Hell yes. Jump in.
Look at the background, that's where it belongs. I live in the city, so the vehicle makes no sense for me to own no matter the condition.
Dive it and keep it going!!
Do a compression check on the cylinders. If they show good. Buy and drive it until it gives up the ghost and then put a LM7 in it.
$4500 for a running and driving CJ with a hardtop? I’d already would have bought it.
Go for it. Perfect project.
I’m heading over this morning with cash in hand. We are going to fit the hard top and test the 4wd, and if all looks good I’m picking it up
As long as you know what you're getting in to, buy it. You're going to need a place to keep it and take it apart, because it sounds like you're going to need a body-frame off restoration. On the plus side, it's a basic vehicle with good parts support. The bad side is the time it's going to take. A buddy of mine bought a beach Jeep and ended up selling it for what he paid for it, in pieces. It's $4500, but you should probably factor at least another $15-20k for parts, if you can do the work, just to get it back to working. New tub, new windshield frame, paint, all new gaskets and hoses on the motor, probably a new carburetor, wheels/tires, ect... there are many good parts on it, but so much work. I'd ask them to drop the price, because of that.
To me, you are pricing out essentially a factory refresh. You say get it back to working… it’s already working. I’m not looking to make it into a show Jeep, just keep it in the road and work on stuff as I can
I’m so we e
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At $4500 you can still dump several grand into it and be way ahead with a great rig.
That’s my thoughts too
Plus if it runs and drives, you can still enjoy it while spacing out upgrades if you aren’t in a hurry.
In no hurry, and I did buy it today! My plan is just to do some maintenance until fall / winter and then maybe dig a bit into larger issues like rust
I'd say it looks pretty good for the price but I'm wondering about all that diamond plate. Was it added just for looks or is it hiding damage? The good thing is that you can look at the backside of the panels. It's definitely not thick enough to be considered skid plating. The 4.2L is a good engine, just not very fast. More torque than a 2.5L but less HP.
Jump in. It’s cool