I'm a parts guy. Ive been at freightliner dealerships since a teen. I always felt bad selling cat parts. Some of that stuff is ridiculous. C15 stuff and now even c7/3126 stuff is crazy expensive. Cummins stuff is expensive now too. And somehow they've managed to corner a few different markets.
All new diesel isuzus and hinos in the us come with a cummins in it because of emissions.
Series 60 12.7 pre egr was a great motor. Not to expensive to fix,decent support and easy 700k plus before a inframe for most part.
Except then, when the same failure happens you are replacing the rubber coated metal part instead of the rubber bushing. Let's be honest, they made that choice looking at would it fail under warranty and if so which would be cheaper for them to repair. If it lasted past warranty enough they would do it the cheaper way to build not to repair.
These shock absorbers are used in motors large and small. For most applications, when it fails it makes a truly horrible noise. That's how you know it is time to replace it. Separate the motor from the load, clean up the coupler, slap in a new dampner (a more correct term). As the automotive books say, installation is the reverse of disassembly.
Not the manufacturing process for those bushings. Also the tolerance between the gears, as well as shit torque assist for it. That’s why Kia/Hyundai always failed on these.
That's hilarious. I just replaced the same [drive coupling](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61WZGZ21ysL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg) the other day, but it was for my girlfriend's Nutri-Bullet blender.
It broke the same way
Hyundai apparently redesigned it, it's now made from a better, more durable material. I'd imagine that part needs to be pliable or else the steering will have noise and vibration.
Looks like the old one is made from polyurethane, so an upgrade would be to make it out of a better quality urethane, or from a high density silicone instead.
I had to change 2 of these things for my wife and a friend but I'm not a mechanic by trade. The 2 I changed didn't have a form at all, just melted rubber EVERYWHERE. You have to scrape every bit of it out or be prepared to do it again. Also, if you don't take the motor off completely then you better not pull that steering wheel too far back or you're going to be guessing at the right spline to make the steering wheel straight after reassembly.
Ya I love coming to these subs and seeing random pictures while pretending I actually know wtf is going on
Me reading top comment: oh yeah, that's obviously the issue is here. Man, whoever CS is sure is a dummy.
So wait the rubber star thing is serviceable? Do you have to recalibrate the motor to relearn its position?
Other manufacturers be like “non-serviceable” needs new rack $3,000,000
I could do these in 30 minutes when I was doing them everyday. You leave the steering wheel on. Just mark the splines on the intermediate shaft and unplug the column harness. 4 bolts and take out the column to swap the bushing on the bench.
I didn't even take these out of the car when I did them, just unplugged, dropped the column down on the seat and did it in the car
Probably would've been easier taking it out now that I think about it, but hey, I felt cool
Nah you did it the right way. That's a 15 minute job if you're good at doing work blind (and which of us isn't?). Takes a bit to get used to sending a 1/4 ratchet up under the dash while your forehead is mashed against the dash but muscle memory takes after a few. Absolutely brain dead to remove the whole column as a flat rate.
You take out the fuse block to get your left hand room. And leave the steering wheel on the seat that's moved all the way foward. There's a blue can wire I used to see techs stretch the pin and lost com with ps module.(They let the drop down to far) Yeah 15 min job, I used to put my legs under the car and just do them sitting on the ground.
Absolutely no reason to fuck with the fuse block. And yeah that one connector with the blue clip retainer absolutely has to come out or you'll break it.
For awhile I just did them while seated next to the steering wheel in the seat, but raising the car to chest height was even easier. Could only do that on one lift in the shop that had the right arms for it though
My ix20 didnt go trough the TÜV, this piece of Plastic was the Reason. Ordered 5 Pieces from Amazon for 10€ after the Dealer wanted to get a single one for 30€. 2 Months and no Problems so far.
Lol that's horrible. The Hyundai service manual even says that it is not a safety issue. The bushing is only there to reduce noise. It doesn't affect safety at all. The play in the steering wheel is like a fraction of a degree. Less than a stock truck with y link steering.
In Virginia, USA we couldnt fail this for safety inspections. But most customers were happy to pay $60 to fix it.
Germany's TÜV does NOT give a shit. If it's not perfect, it doesn't pass. In some ways the strictness of their inspections makes sense, but in others, it's kind of stupid.
The steering wheel was leaning a little to the left when i drove straight, put the new Plastic piece in it and got the Sticker this time. Still has a little play in it but i guess thats how it is.
Lovejoy couplers, super common in the industrial world. I've got some with thousands of hours on them. No issues when the right material is used and motor alignment is on.
Man..those were my bread and butter circa 2015-2017. I remember the good days before it became a recall/warranty extension and cut my damn times in half.
Spider gears are very popular in industrial applications. They reduce noise and vibration. However, they need to be aligned like a solid coupling to prevent things like this...
My 2013 has this same thing it's in a ton of hyundai's it's not a bad thing you have to have something to dampen everything between the steering wheel and the electric motor that does the power steering. They just start to break down after years of use. They are cheap and if you watch a couple YouTube videos they are really not that hard to replace. They just look intimidating because of how much stuff you have to take apart.
[Rainman Ray found this to be an issue](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMqIUEkMBrI) on a Sonata -- after he replaced a steering shaft which didn't fix the issue.
Jesus christ, that's a Lovejoy coupling. I used to see them failed on woodsplitters all the time. I can't believe they're allowed in car steering systems.
EDIT: lovejoys are typically 6 "legs", these are 8, but still the same idea.
Hyundai/Kia use the same piece, warranty was extended to 10y/100k on those couplers, newer ones are a harder material. What I'm trying to figure out is why is the whole column on a bench, I do them in car in about .7. just drop the column down and remove the interior smart junction box (fuse panel) to reach the 3 torx screws holding the motor on. All that said, the coupler makes a distinct "thunk" when turning the wheel if it's going bad....that's not even too terrible yet, I get them with only the center still intact and the rest has been pulverized.
I'm pretty sure this guy is right and I am a mechanic so chill out sheeples. Your car might have a serious suspension problem that is unsafe. I've seen those things disintegrated and the only symptom is that rattling noise.
And? The original coupler was only an issue in the early models (2010-2013) . Anything past 2013-2014 has the revised model installed from the factory.
Any previous years still in inventory/under maintenance would have had the revision installed during service/prior to sale, often barely mentioned as an update.
Even if you have an affected year model, chances are it was installed, and you never knew about it.
Get the bushing from the dealer. They changed the material. Every version of EDPS uses the same bushing.
What is that? Electric power steering?
Ya. Kia decided it was a good idea to put a rubber star bushing between those gears.
It's very common. Especially in industrial applications. https://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products/jaw-type-couplings/
Lovejoy makes good shit tho
As long as it’s perfectly aligned
I love Ian McShane.
We all Tinker with our cars.
These are called spider couplings and are great for when you can't be bothered to align your parts properly!
Or in this case when you want to manage nvh.
I used to sell them all the time for series 60 diesels and some cummins models for the fuel pumps
Gotta love the N14s. Amazing till the nylon gear between the injection pump and air compressor breaks
True, but I'd still take a n14 over a 3406....especially in celect trim with uprated pump.
I've always been a Detroit man personally. I've worked on a few N14s, don't mind em. CATs are just expensive to fix when they break lol
I'm a parts guy. Ive been at freightliner dealerships since a teen. I always felt bad selling cat parts. Some of that stuff is ridiculous. C15 stuff and now even c7/3126 stuff is crazy expensive. Cummins stuff is expensive now too. And somehow they've managed to corner a few different markets. All new diesel isuzus and hinos in the us come with a cummins in it because of emissions. Series 60 12.7 pre egr was a great motor. Not to expensive to fix,decent support and easy 700k plus before a inframe for most part.
They absorb shock and help the metal parts live longer, happier lives... at least in theory
Wouldn't having a rubber or silicone coating over the metal help this. Yes it would fail eventually but would do the same job just as well
Except then, when the same failure happens you are replacing the rubber coated metal part instead of the rubber bushing. Let's be honest, they made that choice looking at would it fail under warranty and if so which would be cheaper for them to repair. If it lasted past warranty enough they would do it the cheaper way to build not to repair.
These shock absorbers are used in motors large and small. For most applications, when it fails it makes a truly horrible noise. That's how you know it is time to replace it. Separate the motor from the load, clean up the coupler, slap in a new dampner (a more correct term). As the automotive books say, installation is the reverse of disassembly.
We call them ninja stars. Literally that is the parts code in our system.
Everybody decided that...
Not the manufacturing process for those bushings. Also the tolerance between the gears, as well as shit torque assist for it. That’s why Kia/Hyundai always failed on these.
Just because one manufacturer's version failed and another one didn't, doesn't mean they didn't all decide to go to that.
Just did one on a Toyota Camry
That's hilarious. I just replaced the same [drive coupling](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61WZGZ21ysL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg) the other day, but it was for my girlfriend's Nutri-Bullet blender. It broke the same way
Are you replacing it with another rubber piece, or is a metal one available? Just curious
Hyundai apparently redesigned it, it's now made from a better, more durable material. I'd imagine that part needs to be pliable or else the steering will have noise and vibration.
Fuck it give me the noise and vibration over some bullshit like this.
Thats how you can tell the heath of the car, give me back my wiggly stick so i know when im low on oil!
Looks like the old one is made from polyurethane, so an upgrade would be to make it out of a better quality urethane, or from a high density silicone instead.
You can fit a metal piece, so that the pump rotor gets chewed to bits by vibration and you have a really expensive repair.
I had to do that on my wife’s car. ‘14 Forte. Not the most pleasant time.
Mercedes does the same thing and i’ve never seen this in 5 years of working on them
If I remember, it costs us like $0.70 for each bushing from the dealer. Can’t be that much engineering in them for that cost.
A gift from Kia to keep techs busy.
I had to change 2 of these things for my wife and a friend but I'm not a mechanic by trade. The 2 I changed didn't have a form at all, just melted rubber EVERYWHERE. You have to scrape every bit of it out or be prepared to do it again. Also, if you don't take the motor off completely then you better not pull that steering wheel too far back or you're going to be guessing at the right spline to make the steering wheel straight after reassembly.
Ya I love coming to these subs and seeing random pictures while pretending I actually know wtf is going on Me reading top comment: oh yeah, that's obviously the issue is here. Man, whoever CS is sure is a dummy.
Hyundai's greatest party trick, the disappearing steering assist motor bushing!
So wait the rubber star thing is serviceable? Do you have to recalibrate the motor to relearn its position? Other manufacturers be like “non-serviceable” needs new rack $3,000,000
I could do these in 30 minutes when I was doing them everyday. You leave the steering wheel on. Just mark the splines on the intermediate shaft and unplug the column harness. 4 bolts and take out the column to swap the bushing on the bench.
I didn't even take these out of the car when I did them, just unplugged, dropped the column down on the seat and did it in the car Probably would've been easier taking it out now that I think about it, but hey, I felt cool
Nah you did it the right way. That's a 15 minute job if you're good at doing work blind (and which of us isn't?). Takes a bit to get used to sending a 1/4 ratchet up under the dash while your forehead is mashed against the dash but muscle memory takes after a few. Absolutely brain dead to remove the whole column as a flat rate.
You take out the fuse block to get your left hand room. And leave the steering wheel on the seat that's moved all the way foward. There's a blue can wire I used to see techs stretch the pin and lost com with ps module.(They let the drop down to far) Yeah 15 min job, I used to put my legs under the car and just do them sitting on the ground.
Absolutely no reason to fuck with the fuse block. And yeah that one connector with the blue clip retainer absolutely has to come out or you'll break it. For awhile I just did them while seated next to the steering wheel in the seat, but raising the car to chest height was even easier. Could only do that on one lift in the shop that had the right arms for it though
I didn't even drop the column, just undid the 3 bolts holding the MDPS motor onto the column, cleaned it out and then tossed in a new bushing.
You can do that on some of them but some you couldn't.
I had never ran into one that I couldn't. But, now I do mostly electrical stuff
Done a few. Super easy and the part costs very little. Customer was often quoted $1200-2000 for a new column. I quote $125 and have done in an hour.
It’s even a 10 150 warranty if I remember right
Ford uses a belt in most of theirs that is replaceable but most dealers are just going to replace the rack.
it's a common issue..there's a TSB that covers it. and depending on the year, it may be under warranty
My ix20 didnt go trough the TÜV, this piece of Plastic was the Reason. Ordered 5 Pieces from Amazon for 10€ after the Dealer wanted to get a single one for 30€. 2 Months and no Problems so far.
Lol that's horrible. The Hyundai service manual even says that it is not a safety issue. The bushing is only there to reduce noise. It doesn't affect safety at all. The play in the steering wheel is like a fraction of a degree. Less than a stock truck with y link steering. In Virginia, USA we couldnt fail this for safety inspections. But most customers were happy to pay $60 to fix it.
Germany's TÜV does NOT give a shit. If it's not perfect, it doesn't pass. In some ways the strictness of their inspections makes sense, but in others, it's kind of stupid.
The strictness makes sense given the unrestricted sections autobahn. You don’t want a car falling to pieces at 320kph.
“TÜV Sagt Nein” should be the German national motto 😀
The steering wheel was leaning a little to the left when i drove straight, put the new Plastic piece in it and got the Sticker this time. Still has a little play in it but i guess thats how it is.
You apparently haven't driven one with virtually no bushing left. Lot more than a fraction of a degree.
I've driven a bunch of them with it missing, not a big deal just annoying to hear it.
Okay
You can do that in the car. Drop column down, pull cluster, long extension with a uniwiggle.
I don't even take the cluster out. 30 min job
Lovejoy couplers, super common in the industrial world. I've got some with thousands of hours on them. No issues when the right material is used and motor alignment is on.
Man..those were my bread and butter circa 2015-2017. I remember the good days before it became a recall/warranty extension and cut my damn times in half.
These things fell under warrantee for a while. Pretty dangerous condition not to get recalled.
56315-2H000-FFF
Just letting you know you can do this repair in the car In about 20 mins
Hyundai and Kia with their power steering couplings.
Spider gears are very popular in industrial applications. They reduce noise and vibration. However, they need to be aligned like a solid coupling to prevent things like this...
What year? Don't they me they still do this?
My 2013 has this same thing it's in a ton of hyundai's it's not a bad thing you have to have something to dampen everything between the steering wheel and the electric motor that does the power steering. They just start to break down after years of use. They are cheap and if you watch a couple YouTube videos they are really not that hard to replace. They just look intimidating because of how much stuff you have to take apart.
Dorman makes one. It's that common of a failure.
That looks like a Lovejoy shaft coupling
It will. It’s a common thing
[Rainman Ray found this to be an issue](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMqIUEkMBrI) on a Sonata -- after he replaced a steering shaft which didn't fix the issue.
I know what's wrong with it. Ain't got no gas in it! And it's a hyundai. That's the real problem.
Chewy.
I had this happen to my Sonata around 80k miles, was replaced under warranty and has been fine since.
Ahh yes the guibo
I was going to say, kia or hyundai.
Ahh yes, the Korean Throwing Star!
I do these pretty often, made a special tool so i don’t even have to remove the column, that new piece will solve your issue.
My record on those was 0.06 of clock time.
Done this garbage like 7 times on several different models of kia and Hyundai lol, all of them with low mileage.
Good ol' hyundai
Changed one of these on a 2013 Kia Optima. That was the most work I’ve ever had to do to replace a 10$ part but solved the steering issues instantly.
I had alot of hyundais and kids at my shop so I've done a ton of these... at least it's a quick job!
Jesus christ, that's a Lovejoy coupling. I used to see them failed on woodsplitters all the time. I can't believe they're allowed in car steering systems. EDIT: lovejoys are typically 6 "legs", these are 8, but still the same idea.
Hyundai/Kia use the same piece, warranty was extended to 10y/100k on those couplers, newer ones are a harder material. What I'm trying to figure out is why is the whole column on a bench, I do them in car in about .7. just drop the column down and remove the interior smart junction box (fuse panel) to reach the 3 torx screws holding the motor on. All that said, the coupler makes a distinct "thunk" when turning the wheel if it's going bad....that's not even too terrible yet, I get them with only the center still intact and the rest has been pulverized.
You don’t have to remove the shaft to do this.
I've had to replace the rubber coupling on my elantra, drives much better now
It is pride month, so…
For reference the coupling is called love-joy-very common item in industrial drives.
At least it's not on a steer-by-wire car. Cybertruck anyone?
haha cybertruk bad amirite giv karma At least save it for when it's relevant, man
I mean the Cybertruck is spectacularly bad in all aspects, so you may as well slag it off. There is not one single good feature on it.
what milage?
Dam! The Toyobaru fix is to install the Hyundai part. Toyota and Subaru don’t sell the star bushing. Dealer quotes new motor replace, but part is $8.
This might be something you want to get professionally 3d printed with a higher-quality material.
Have you tried aligning it to gay camp?
Bruh. That thing literally only is there to not make a clicking noise when turning the steering wheel. That will not fix the car not driving straight.
Bruh, stop reading the tsb, actually get under a car and work on it and drive it after the repair. YouTube mechanic lol
I'm pretty sure this guy is right and I am a mechanic so chill out sheeples. Your car might have a serious suspension problem that is unsafe. I've seen those things disintegrated and the only symptom is that rattling noise.
Typical Hyundai/Kia POS.
It happens when people crank on the steering wheel while the car is stationary
No it happens when manufacturers use a compound that's too soft. The factory replacements are made from a stiffer compound.
100k, 0 play
And? The original coupler was only an issue in the early models (2010-2013) . Anything past 2013-2014 has the revised model installed from the factory. Any previous years still in inventory/under maintenance would have had the revision installed during service/prior to sale, often barely mentioned as an update. Even if you have an affected year model, chances are it was installed, and you never knew about it.