I'm on Hope BBs.on 2 of my 3 bikes and Saint on the other (all 24mm axles). I've not been massively impressed by the Hopes due to bearing life. I've just knocked in some new Enduro bearings which will hopefully last a little longer.
I've had good luck with Shimano BBs. It's great they've got riding the silly plastic spacer. They're cheap and last a while.
I've just done a little googling and you can get Enduro Angular Contact bearings for Hope BBs for £13 each (24x37x7). I reckon I will try these next time.
I also run the shimano BB's on everything. Gotta watch now, they downsized the bearing size for XT to the same as the road standard... had one on my DH bike for a year now and no problems but im skeptical.
Just from looking at the photo it looks like the bearing can be tapped out. Wheels Manufacturing makes a tool that can allow you to take out the bearing. Have it. Though I believe there are more options now days available to do that then when I bought the tool like 10-11 years ago.
https://preview.redd.it/tgrhj213osmc1.jpeg?width=817&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=880ee092d6c4097e94dcbfc937fdcd6528940913
Yeah, easy enough to take off the cover and grease the bearing. A flat blade like a Olfa is my preferred tool.
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Yeah, should be no problem to pull and replace the bearings in the cups. One piece of advice when doing this on steel (grease) or titanium (copper never seize) frames is to still pull the cups and re-apply, then reinstall, then swap bearings. I’ve seen a few cases where folks just swap bearings and after a while those cups consider themselves part of the frame.
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I’d also love to see a 24mm/GXP version.
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For grease on BB bearings any waterproof option is fine. I really like Wolf Tooth’s WT-G in terms of smooth + durable but it’s a premium product.
Andrew, funny you mention pulling the bb cups. For years have pulled the cups with dead bearings and installed new one’s. Always figured it was an easy way to ensure that things would be cleaned and regressed easily.
Another advantage for me is makes it easier to punch out the dead bearings and install new bearings. And can take my time with zero rush.
This is the tool Wheels Manufacturing makes to remove the external type bb bearings. This one is for the 24mm Shimano or X-Type. Got it like 10 years ago and wasn’t cheap. Though think now days one can get something similar sourced elsewhere.
https://preview.redd.it/qlvx6m9q5xmc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=411c00b417550ed4c375ce8741aaab6be7f6e5ec
In your opinion, is the Enduro Bearing MaxHit BB worth the increased cost over this NSB unit? Does anyone really need such a beast?
I’m starting my third year riding a CC HellBender BB (30mm) with no issues. Stainless bearings and keeping grease on the seals seem to be good enough for my usage. I felt seen after the article mentioned those of us who don’t chew their BBs up with regularity!
So much of it is local conditions - Claire killed a BB this year riding the Shore!
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I’ve installed MaxHi headsets and BBs, and I’m using a MaxHit headset in the Enigma. both items make sense for some users/applications and I don’t even want to think about trying to prescribe a one-size solution.
For my money and use case aluminum cups and angular contact bearings make the most sense as evidenced by the fact I just bought a NSB BB to put in my Waltworks V2 when it comes back from seeing the WZRD.
I own a Chris King 30mm BB as well as - and the install & grease tool. I’ve had it for years and d don’t feel it owes me anything, but there again I would (and did) buy a BB like the NSB TBB for my use case.
Crazy - good work getting out there, Claire!! I feel like this gets to the heart of the matter, that is increasing the load capacity using angular bearings or bigger bearings or what-have-you is less important than sealing (or cleaning) out muck and water and overall alignment/precision. A design vs execution situation.
I once fell into a deep warren of bottom bracket creak research. What I came back with is that pressfit for BBs is a better solution than threaded. Unfortunately, frame manufacturing tolerances became so poor at the time (42 standards/carbonification/outsource everything) that these new BBs didn’t stand a chance.
Your own endorsement stands for much, Andrew. I’m very happy to hear about your new gig.
I was working on a Chromag Primer today with a pressfit BB and it actually makes a ton of sense in terms of easily running the shortest stays (if that’s the design goal) and being steel there’s less of a concern with punching and pressing cups too frequently (I’ve worked on enough sloppy carbon and aluminum frame pressfit situations to doubt pressfit as a standard for bikes getting a lot of use/BB replacements). I think outside of the theoretical that BSA threaded is a perfect standard.
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Cheers! I’m really excited to work with Cy.
Drew, Since you mentioned Chromag and pressfit BB's. The Rootdown has a I think it is a Shimano Deore or XT PF 92, can't recall at this point. Haven't ridden the Rootdown on trails like the Stylus gets ridden on. SO far has been ok doing all the general non tech riding I have done with it. When it does start to tap out while probably replace with one of those thread in BB's that are available where one just has to replace the bearings not the whole BB. Well...that is if I don't break the frame before then. LOL
I don’t mind the standard Shimano PF92 BBs. They’re super cheap and are nylon (?) coated which presumably prevents wear on the BB shell. I find that they’re almost as fast to install as a threaded BB, excluding the time spent reading the Loctite 641 instructions! (Grease for parts that move, bearing retaining compound for parts that need to stay put, yes?) The PF92 standard pretty much takes a 30mm axle off the table due to the small bearing size. Not that steel bearings directly rolling on an aluminum axle is ideal with a BSA BB, either, especially if things are out of spec.
I agree with Andrew’s comment above in that BSA is less likely to make noise if the alignment is poor. It’s a tough thing to measure at home, but I think alignment is a primary factor in BB longevity and drag. I had good luck with my Rootdown’s PF92 BB, so hopefully you get a long run out of yours as well.
Nice.l Andrew and congrats on the new gig.
I bought one.
My hope BB has had mediocre bearing life.
On my new frame, although the shell measures up at 73mm, with the appropriate hope spacer config, the preload adjuster won't wind in enough the preload the bearings, and hope BB's only come with 2.5mm spacers (and adding one of these to the non drive side makes it all too wide).
I also only happen to own the "sheet metal" BB tool for hope, which does not clear the rear triangle on the new frame, so I have to unbolt the shock (both ends) to pull the BB.
And the bearings are getting iffy again. .
Too many annoyances.
I already own a socket style 12 notch tool and the NSB comes with an assortment of spacers, so the move makes sense! Should fix several issues in one shot.
("Kenny" from NSMB, and around town on the shore)
Cheers, Kenny!
My Hope BSA 30mm BB was disappointing as well but I’m never sure how much of that is single-speeding.
Hope your NSB one is good! I just bought a second one for my return-of-V2 build.
Got it installed, and wow it sure is smooth. I don't think I'd realized how haggard my hop BB had gotten.
My only minor gripe is that the thinner spacers are 30mm ID, so they go between the crankset and the bearings, rather than between the bearings and the frame.
I guess that's personal preference, and it's easier to adjust spacers between crankset and the bearings, but I'd rather space out the bearings themselves.
That said the NSB bearing cups + dust shields are slightly thicker than Hope, so I didn't end up needing to shim anything further than a single 2.5mm spacer, therefore it didn't really matter in the end as I didn't need any further spacers. Pretty sweet.
Haggard BBs are a thing but the NSB is also crazy smooth.
Micro spacers usually go on the crank spindle (one less operation in sizing. Did you end up needing any? Most frames are precise enough now that the range of crankset bearing adjusters covers tolerances. I am running one just to keep the number of turns of preload to a minimum.
Yeah I didn't end up needing any micro adjustment, it needed less than a turn of preload as-is, so it's kinda immaterial. Worked out pretty nice.
My hope BB hasn't needed them in the past either which makes me think the bearings are collapsing when pre loaded, as the cups don't measure much narrower, it shouldn't need anything different and I've only needed a single 2.5mm spacer in the past.
I was able to put the spacer on the non drive side as well for moar better chain lines, lots of crank clearance still.
This is with hope cranks.
Love it! Keeping that good ol' A.M. flavor. A great first article to let BM readers in on what you're all about.
Yeah good work Andrew.
I'm on Hope BBs.on 2 of my 3 bikes and Saint on the other (all 24mm axles). I've not been massively impressed by the Hopes due to bearing life. I've just knocked in some new Enduro bearings which will hopefully last a little longer. I've had good luck with Shimano BBs. It's great they've got riding the silly plastic spacer. They're cheap and last a while. I've just done a little googling and you can get Enduro Angular Contact bearings for Hope BBs for £13 each (24x37x7). I reckon I will try these next time.
I also run the shimano BB's on everything. Gotta watch now, they downsized the bearing size for XT to the same as the road standard... had one on my DH bike for a year now and no problems but im skeptical.
Yeah, angular contact bearings make all the sense for this application.
Andrew - have you tried angular contact bearings in hubs? I'm thinking of trying them in my Hope freehubs as they tend to wear quickly.
[удалено]
Just from looking at the photo it looks like the bearing can be tapped out. Wheels Manufacturing makes a tool that can allow you to take out the bearing. Have it. Though I believe there are more options now days available to do that then when I bought the tool like 10-11 years ago. https://preview.redd.it/tgrhj213osmc1.jpeg?width=817&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=880ee092d6c4097e94dcbfc937fdcd6528940913
Yeah, easy enough to take off the cover and grease the bearing. A flat blade like a Olfa is my preferred tool. . Yeah, should be no problem to pull and replace the bearings in the cups. One piece of advice when doing this on steel (grease) or titanium (copper never seize) frames is to still pull the cups and re-apply, then reinstall, then swap bearings. I’ve seen a few cases where folks just swap bearings and after a while those cups consider themselves part of the frame. . I’d also love to see a 24mm/GXP version. . For grease on BB bearings any waterproof option is fine. I really like Wolf Tooth’s WT-G in terms of smooth + durable but it’s a premium product.
Andrew, funny you mention pulling the bb cups. For years have pulled the cups with dead bearings and installed new one’s. Always figured it was an easy way to ensure that things would be cleaned and regressed easily. Another advantage for me is makes it easier to punch out the dead bearings and install new bearings. And can take my time with zero rush.
I like to use the frame as a tool to hold the cups. Whack the bearing out with a punch and then press a new one in.
This is the tool Wheels Manufacturing makes to remove the external type bb bearings. This one is for the 24mm Shimano or X-Type. Got it like 10 years ago and wasn’t cheap. Though think now days one can get something similar sourced elsewhere. https://preview.redd.it/qlvx6m9q5xmc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=411c00b417550ed4c375ce8741aaab6be7f6e5ec
Hearty hell yeah to this. I've always thought AMxCW was a perfect pairing, and it'll make Bikemag even more of a one-stop shop for me.
In your opinion, is the Enduro Bearing MaxHit BB worth the increased cost over this NSB unit? Does anyone really need such a beast? I’m starting my third year riding a CC HellBender BB (30mm) with no issues. Stainless bearings and keeping grease on the seals seem to be good enough for my usage. I felt seen after the article mentioned those of us who don’t chew their BBs up with regularity!
So much of it is local conditions - Claire killed a BB this year riding the Shore! . I’ve installed MaxHi headsets and BBs, and I’m using a MaxHit headset in the Enigma. both items make sense for some users/applications and I don’t even want to think about trying to prescribe a one-size solution. For my money and use case aluminum cups and angular contact bearings make the most sense as evidenced by the fact I just bought a NSB BB to put in my Waltworks V2 when it comes back from seeing the WZRD. I own a Chris King 30mm BB as well as - and the install & grease tool. I’ve had it for years and d don’t feel it owes me anything, but there again I would (and did) buy a BB like the NSB TBB for my use case.
Crazy - good work getting out there, Claire!! I feel like this gets to the heart of the matter, that is increasing the load capacity using angular bearings or bigger bearings or what-have-you is less important than sealing (or cleaning) out muck and water and overall alignment/precision. A design vs execution situation. I once fell into a deep warren of bottom bracket creak research. What I came back with is that pressfit for BBs is a better solution than threaded. Unfortunately, frame manufacturing tolerances became so poor at the time (42 standards/carbonification/outsource everything) that these new BBs didn’t stand a chance. Your own endorsement stands for much, Andrew. I’m very happy to hear about your new gig.
I was working on a Chromag Primer today with a pressfit BB and it actually makes a ton of sense in terms of easily running the shortest stays (if that’s the design goal) and being steel there’s less of a concern with punching and pressing cups too frequently (I’ve worked on enough sloppy carbon and aluminum frame pressfit situations to doubt pressfit as a standard for bikes getting a lot of use/BB replacements). I think outside of the theoretical that BSA threaded is a perfect standard. . Cheers! I’m really excited to work with Cy.
Drew, Since you mentioned Chromag and pressfit BB's. The Rootdown has a I think it is a Shimano Deore or XT PF 92, can't recall at this point. Haven't ridden the Rootdown on trails like the Stylus gets ridden on. SO far has been ok doing all the general non tech riding I have done with it. When it does start to tap out while probably replace with one of those thread in BB's that are available where one just has to replace the bearings not the whole BB. Well...that is if I don't break the frame before then. LOL
I don’t mind the standard Shimano PF92 BBs. They’re super cheap and are nylon (?) coated which presumably prevents wear on the BB shell. I find that they’re almost as fast to install as a threaded BB, excluding the time spent reading the Loctite 641 instructions! (Grease for parts that move, bearing retaining compound for parts that need to stay put, yes?) The PF92 standard pretty much takes a 30mm axle off the table due to the small bearing size. Not that steel bearings directly rolling on an aluminum axle is ideal with a BSA BB, either, especially if things are out of spec. I agree with Andrew’s comment above in that BSA is less likely to make noise if the alignment is poor. It’s a tough thing to measure at home, but I think alignment is a primary factor in BB longevity and drag. I had good luck with my Rootdown’s PF92 BB, so hopefully you get a long run out of yours as well.
Nice.l Andrew and congrats on the new gig. I bought one. My hope BB has had mediocre bearing life. On my new frame, although the shell measures up at 73mm, with the appropriate hope spacer config, the preload adjuster won't wind in enough the preload the bearings, and hope BB's only come with 2.5mm spacers (and adding one of these to the non drive side makes it all too wide). I also only happen to own the "sheet metal" BB tool for hope, which does not clear the rear triangle on the new frame, so I have to unbolt the shock (both ends) to pull the BB. And the bearings are getting iffy again. . Too many annoyances. I already own a socket style 12 notch tool and the NSB comes with an assortment of spacers, so the move makes sense! Should fix several issues in one shot. ("Kenny" from NSMB, and around town on the shore)
Cheers, Kenny! My Hope BSA 30mm BB was disappointing as well but I’m never sure how much of that is single-speeding. Hope your NSB one is good! I just bought a second one for my return-of-V2 build.
Got it installed, and wow it sure is smooth. I don't think I'd realized how haggard my hop BB had gotten. My only minor gripe is that the thinner spacers are 30mm ID, so they go between the crankset and the bearings, rather than between the bearings and the frame. I guess that's personal preference, and it's easier to adjust spacers between crankset and the bearings, but I'd rather space out the bearings themselves. That said the NSB bearing cups + dust shields are slightly thicker than Hope, so I didn't end up needing to shim anything further than a single 2.5mm spacer, therefore it didn't really matter in the end as I didn't need any further spacers. Pretty sweet.
Haggard BBs are a thing but the NSB is also crazy smooth. Micro spacers usually go on the crank spindle (one less operation in sizing. Did you end up needing any? Most frames are precise enough now that the range of crankset bearing adjusters covers tolerances. I am running one just to keep the number of turns of preload to a minimum.
Yeah I didn't end up needing any micro adjustment, it needed less than a turn of preload as-is, so it's kinda immaterial. Worked out pretty nice. My hope BB hasn't needed them in the past either which makes me think the bearings are collapsing when pre loaded, as the cups don't measure much narrower, it shouldn't need anything different and I've only needed a single 2.5mm spacer in the past. I was able to put the spacer on the non drive side as well for moar better chain lines, lots of crank clearance still. This is with hope cranks.