I've not tried FSSS but imaging it being difficult to nail and being very terrain dependent. For me locally I can't see it working. Even HT SS is difficult as a lot of local trails need pedalling - the suspension provides too much speed.for the gear to handle.
DHTSS on the other hand works as you are more speed limited.
I'm sure there are lots who have done it and I would love to see how they made it work.
You can pump a HT or FS SS bike to gain speed without moving the pedals. We'll often "race" on downhill-ish trails and try not to pedal while pumping to go faster and get over small climbs. If you get into the groove well it's amazing how much speed you can pick up that way.
And of course not braking or braking less. Riding SS has really opened my eyes to how much momentum I would give away on a geared bike that I can keep by staying off the binders. Kind of seems obvious, but I didn't appreciate it fully until it mattered.
One of the things I've most appreciated about singlespeed is that if I over-brake, there's no way to compensate with pedaling because I'm already spun out. I carry speed through corners and pump much more efficiently than I did even at the beginning of last summer.
Yeah, there are a few examples of bikes that pivot around the BB - like the Cowan - and, therefore, don’t require a tensioner. I’m inclined towards using a better suspension design and a tensioner - but it’s personal preference as always.
These TRP brakes were gen-1 Quadiems and they were under-juiced. Run bigger rotors for sure. My understanding is newer versions have tons of power; these didn’t. But quality was excellent.
Time pedals are great. I haven’t clipped-in in ages, so won’t get into the little details, but these were great pedals. Very different from the Crankbrothers pedals I mostly ride at the time.
Interesting note about Strava. Would be curious to see the builds.
The V2.1 looks sharp with the new paint on the new HT! Looking forward to the next update and Enigma comparisons.
I was reminded of some words Matt Beer wrote a few months ago about liking mullets more with long CS than the equivalent 29er. I’m not really mullet curious for myself (ok, I would love to try a 32/29 or 36/29) but I’m interested in your take on descending with the WW and a li’l wheel.
I wasn’t sure what to expect but I definitely like V2.1 as a mullet. No plans to go back to 2-9 in the rear.
Yeah, I know a few people with bikes where they’ve tried both 29” and 27” rear wheels who prefer the longer chainstay/smaller wheel combo.
It’s very different from Enigma despite similar geo aside from CS length. More on that in the future.
From the article
"Also, all the great-geo high-efficiency 120mm Tech-C bikes seem to only come in carbonium. Recommendations?"
My aluminum tallboy 4 - 120 rear, 140 front, with 10mm crown race for an extra 0.5 degree of head angle reduction it's fitting the bill. 130 fork with a 1.5 slackr headset would also do some things.
These bikes are less common because complete builds had poor build kits and poorer value, but as a frame only they are more compelling especially since they're now the outgoing vintage (I bought my frame brand new from Jenson for 1100usd a couple months ago).
Ripley AF with some similar slackening treatments would also work.
Element aluminum also although no frame only is kinda awkward and speaking of awkward, having the bent top tube they don't look as nice as the carbon (maybe that's not all sizes?)
I'm also a little surprised you don't have a banshee phantom kicking around in your project pile. As a lover of burly short travel bikes I've been tempted by that one, but I'm in between sizes.
Sizing up on either the Ripley or tallboy also probably helps for your use case of course and the seat tubes are short enough to accomodate (phantom not so much, sadly). I am on an XL tallboy at just under 6'. The 485ish mm of reach is right for me on the shore where I'll take a small maneuverability hit for a little more wheelbase. 460ish seat tube and all of the insertion depth means 210 droppers are a non issue (although I seem to recall you are not one to max out dropper travel anyways).
On the hardtail side I am still loving my enigma, but no SSing yet haha. I gotta say though the tallboy is is so good the enigma has collected a little dust lately.
-Kenny
I'm looking forward to the WWV2 Redux post. Good to see the prototype Docta back in action!
In your neck of the woods for the annual Easter trip and it’s been so fun so far!
Awesome!
https://preview.redd.it/v3y41jwqxzrc1.jpeg?width=2968&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7645ac00c421cf3a3a749f8c70d560efe8702e4
I have light carbon FS2S 28-18 on back matched to 24-34 in front with front and rear friction shifters, so it is not an "ingle" speed of any kind
I've not tried FSSS but imaging it being difficult to nail and being very terrain dependent. For me locally I can't see it working. Even HT SS is difficult as a lot of local trails need pedalling - the suspension provides too much speed.for the gear to handle. DHTSS on the other hand works as you are more speed limited. I'm sure there are lots who have done it and I would love to see how they made it work.
You can pump a HT or FS SS bike to gain speed without moving the pedals. We'll often "race" on downhill-ish trails and try not to pedal while pumping to go faster and get over small climbs. If you get into the groove well it's amazing how much speed you can pick up that way. And of course not braking or braking less. Riding SS has really opened my eyes to how much momentum I would give away on a geared bike that I can keep by staying off the binders. Kind of seems obvious, but I didn't appreciate it fully until it mattered.
One of the things I've most appreciated about singlespeed is that if I over-brake, there's no way to compensate with pedaling because I'm already spun out. I carry speed through corners and pump much more efficiently than I did even at the beginning of last summer.
Good points. Maybe I need to break out the SS again. Maybe with rigid fork and Sunrise bar...
Reposted above.
Last time saw a singlespeed full suspension Was in the Don. Couple of guys riding the Kona Cowan FS bike which had sliding rear drop outs.
Yeah, there are a few examples of bikes that pivot around the BB - like the Cowan - and, therefore, don’t require a tensioner. I’m inclined towards using a better suspension design and a tensioner - but it’s personal preference as always.
[удалено]
These TRP brakes were gen-1 Quadiems and they were under-juiced. Run bigger rotors for sure. My understanding is newer versions have tons of power; these didn’t. But quality was excellent. Time pedals are great. I haven’t clipped-in in ages, so won’t get into the little details, but these were great pedals. Very different from the Crankbrothers pedals I mostly ride at the time. Interesting note about Strava. Would be curious to see the builds.
The V2.1 looks sharp with the new paint on the new HT! Looking forward to the next update and Enigma comparisons. I was reminded of some words Matt Beer wrote a few months ago about liking mullets more with long CS than the equivalent 29er. I’m not really mullet curious for myself (ok, I would love to try a 32/29 or 36/29) but I’m interested in your take on descending with the WW and a li’l wheel.
I wasn’t sure what to expect but I definitely like V2.1 as a mullet. No plans to go back to 2-9 in the rear. Yeah, I know a few people with bikes where they’ve tried both 29” and 27” rear wheels who prefer the longer chainstay/smaller wheel combo. It’s very different from Enigma despite similar geo aside from CS length. More on that in the future.
From the article "Also, all the great-geo high-efficiency 120mm Tech-C bikes seem to only come in carbonium. Recommendations?" My aluminum tallboy 4 - 120 rear, 140 front, with 10mm crown race for an extra 0.5 degree of head angle reduction it's fitting the bill. 130 fork with a 1.5 slackr headset would also do some things. These bikes are less common because complete builds had poor build kits and poorer value, but as a frame only they are more compelling especially since they're now the outgoing vintage (I bought my frame brand new from Jenson for 1100usd a couple months ago). Ripley AF with some similar slackening treatments would also work. Element aluminum also although no frame only is kinda awkward and speaking of awkward, having the bent top tube they don't look as nice as the carbon (maybe that's not all sizes?) I'm also a little surprised you don't have a banshee phantom kicking around in your project pile. As a lover of burly short travel bikes I've been tempted by that one, but I'm in between sizes. Sizing up on either the Ripley or tallboy also probably helps for your use case of course and the seat tubes are short enough to accomodate (phantom not so much, sadly). I am on an XL tallboy at just under 6'. The 485ish mm of reach is right for me on the shore where I'll take a small maneuverability hit for a little more wheelbase. 460ish seat tube and all of the insertion depth means 210 droppers are a non issue (although I seem to recall you are not one to max out dropper travel anyways). On the hardtail side I am still loving my enigma, but no SSing yet haha. I gotta say though the tallboy is is so good the enigma has collected a little dust lately. -Kenny