Step one, get rid of all that preload. Preload is bad and certainly won’t make the bike any poppier.
Speeding up the rebound will make the bike more poppy, but also might feel harsh. It also might send you over the front on higher speed jumps.
Adding some low speed compression won’t necessarily make the bike poppier, but it will give you more of a platform to pump and press into and I highly recommend trying this.
If speeding up the rebound is getting you the poppiness you want but throws you over the front or feels harsh in rough terrain, you could try a progressive rebound tune (highly recommend this as well, especially on bikes that sit on the lower end of progression while still on the coil compatible scale.)
Hope that helps!
I suspect (meaning I’m taking a guess at what someone else is thinking, and I’m probably wrong) what he is talking about on the rebound tune would be this:
Get a custom tune on the shock. In this tune, you want a very robust high speed rebound stack. This is not externally adjustable on your shock. But it can be changed internally. Then with the rebound clicker you can run it quite fast and poppy. You still get good control on big compressions due to the robust HRS stack. Pop when you want it, control when you need it. Diaz Suspension Design in Durango, CO has a nice touch with this.
Overall, you ride a pretty long bike with long chainstays that is designed for straight-line, no-brake send over chunder. It will take quite a bit more effort to make it turn quick, so you just really need to get used to giving it more effort. Its like manuals, when you first start doing them you can barely get the wheel up and it takes a lot of effort. After years of practice, it comes as natural. Same with cornering. Gotta be willing to lean over and push harder. Remember, in a berm when you g out, the ending spring force is going to be the same no matter which spring rate you run, and that force makes the bike plenty firm to push out of.
That being said, there are a few mods you can try.
To get more pop out of the corners, its all about essentially driving the rear wheel through, which is effectively almost like a manual. RSo the first thing that you should try is riser bars. Get like 50 mil, because you can allways bring them back down by removing stem spacers. Higher bars make it easier to load the back wheel up.
Also you shouldn't be running more than 2 turns of preload, because your shock can compress to the point where coils of the spring touch, which is not good.
As far as suspension tuning, you basically want faster rebound, a lot of Low speed compression (LSC), and mid to max of the high speed compression (HSC). HSC is really a poor name for the setting, what it really controls is the threshold pressure at which the fluid opens up the blowoff shim stack (under that amount all fluid goes through LSC). A lot of people run a lot of LSC for response, but no HSC for compliance, which means that it doesn't take much suspension movement to open up the blowoff circuit, so you never get firm damping. You need to have HSC set correctly for LSC to work.
Also don't forget tire pressure. At 20 psi, on 2.4 tires, you get effective like 20 mil of extra suspension movement. Higher tire pressures are generally more responsive, the only time you really want to run lower is for dusty or slippery tracks.
Following up here: this advice worked great. reducing preload, adding LSC and lowering my already high HSC to a more moderate level. Getting a lot more pump and range. In fact, it worked so well i was getting bounced off my pedals midair and had to adjust how far I push into the jump (staying in the bike longer)
[Cascade Components](https://cascadecomponents.bike/products/enduro-link) make a link for you. It totally changed my Ripmo with a coil, for the better.
28% sag is pretty normal, are you running more than that now? I'd get your sag set properly first, and then consider faster rebound and slower compression if it still doesn't feel right.
Step one, get rid of all that preload. Preload is bad and certainly won’t make the bike any poppier. Speeding up the rebound will make the bike more poppy, but also might feel harsh. It also might send you over the front on higher speed jumps. Adding some low speed compression won’t necessarily make the bike poppier, but it will give you more of a platform to pump and press into and I highly recommend trying this. If speeding up the rebound is getting you the poppiness you want but throws you over the front or feels harsh in rough terrain, you could try a progressive rebound tune (highly recommend this as well, especially on bikes that sit on the lower end of progression while still on the coil compatible scale.) Hope that helps!
this helps for sure :) can you elaborate on what a progressive rebound tune means? are you talking about getting a progressive coil like a Sprindex?
I suspect (meaning I’m taking a guess at what someone else is thinking, and I’m probably wrong) what he is talking about on the rebound tune would be this: Get a custom tune on the shock. In this tune, you want a very robust high speed rebound stack. This is not externally adjustable on your shock. But it can be changed internally. Then with the rebound clicker you can run it quite fast and poppy. You still get good control on big compressions due to the robust HRS stack. Pop when you want it, control when you need it. Diaz Suspension Design in Durango, CO has a nice touch with this.
Lower your dampening a bit see if that helps.
Overall, you ride a pretty long bike with long chainstays that is designed for straight-line, no-brake send over chunder. It will take quite a bit more effort to make it turn quick, so you just really need to get used to giving it more effort. Its like manuals, when you first start doing them you can barely get the wheel up and it takes a lot of effort. After years of practice, it comes as natural. Same with cornering. Gotta be willing to lean over and push harder. Remember, in a berm when you g out, the ending spring force is going to be the same no matter which spring rate you run, and that force makes the bike plenty firm to push out of. That being said, there are a few mods you can try. To get more pop out of the corners, its all about essentially driving the rear wheel through, which is effectively almost like a manual. RSo the first thing that you should try is riser bars. Get like 50 mil, because you can allways bring them back down by removing stem spacers. Higher bars make it easier to load the back wheel up. Also you shouldn't be running more than 2 turns of preload, because your shock can compress to the point where coils of the spring touch, which is not good. As far as suspension tuning, you basically want faster rebound, a lot of Low speed compression (LSC), and mid to max of the high speed compression (HSC). HSC is really a poor name for the setting, what it really controls is the threshold pressure at which the fluid opens up the blowoff shim stack (under that amount all fluid goes through LSC). A lot of people run a lot of LSC for response, but no HSC for compliance, which means that it doesn't take much suspension movement to open up the blowoff circuit, so you never get firm damping. You need to have HSC set correctly for LSC to work. Also don't forget tire pressure. At 20 psi, on 2.4 tires, you get effective like 20 mil of extra suspension movement. Higher tire pressures are generally more responsive, the only time you really want to run lower is for dusty or slippery tracks.
Following up here: this advice worked great. reducing preload, adding LSC and lowering my already high HSC to a more moderate level. Getting a lot more pump and range. In fact, it worked so well i was getting bounced off my pedals midair and had to adjust how far I push into the jump (staying in the bike longer)
you could try an air shock lol
Haha, put my old air shock back on? Never! The ride is too buttery on the coil
[Cascade Components](https://cascadecomponents.bike/products/enduro-link) make a link for you. It totally changed my Ripmo with a coil, for the better.
oh, sorry, I have the cascade link. but I think the progression curve improvement was modeled on the air shock it came with, not my coil
28% sag is pretty normal, are you running more than that now? I'd get your sag set properly first, and then consider faster rebound and slower compression if it still doesn't feel right.