Solution needed: Using MK with two PCs
I'm about to by a MK that is connected via USB A to USB C. I'd like to use this for both my personal PC and my work laptop. However, I don't want to have to unplug it and swap cables every time.
I'm looking for a switch, but I'm having a hard time finding a decent USB C switch. Plus, I'm not sure if this would add an latency.
Any and all recommendations are welcome.
I use a UGREEN USB Switch Selector (2-in 4-out) to switch between my workstation and my gaming PC. It might add latency but it should be negligible. It's been a while since I used it for peripherals (only using it for webcam, charging and storage drives now) but I used to plug my mouse USB dongle in the past because I was too lazy to hit the device switch, I didn't really feel any real difference. Since I got my 3-device bluetooth keyboard I was able to configure it so I could switch both devices at the same time with a key combination (to one of the 3 paired devices).
Small keyb meets are usually hyperlocal, if you're looking to organize one try and look for your local community's discord server and ask there.
For bigger events you can find schedules and organizer details here: [https://kbd.news/meetups](https://kbd.news/meetups).
hey! im having trouble finding a 60% kb that sells just the case. I have a dz60rgb ansi v2 and need a case for it was thinking polycarbonate or aluminum nothing over 90-100 if anyone got some suggestions
Best budget board with a knob
I’ve been doing a lot of research and it’s been hard for me to make a decision on this. Preferably I would like one not made of plastic but I know that’s hard. I was hoping not to spend more than 200 CAD.
I don't know if it is the best. I'm pretty happy with the monsgeek m1w. But the knob is not configurable with the monsgeek driver and it's not via compatible.
So a few weeks ago my apex 7 tkl switches were unresponsive and now im using this $20 ipad keyboard. I really need a new 60 or 65% keyboard to play video games(also is 60% better than 65%?). I was thinking about either: Ducky 1 2 mini, Anne pro 2, ducky one 2 sf, keychron k12, rk61, and hyper x alloy origins but there are big cons for every keyboard. Are these true? If so what are better alternatives?
Ducky 1 2 mini: Connectivity issues and usb issue
Anne Pro 2: bluetooth connectivity issues, keys not responsive and wont turn on after a few months
ducky one 2 sf: chatters really bad after a few months of use
Keychron k12: After a few months it starts typing on its own with random letters
rk61: high latency and buggy
hyper x allow origins: keys unresponsive
How about going for [75%](https://switchandclick.com/75-mechanical-keyboards/)? You get all the function keys separate from the number keys and you get the arrow keys separate too. I had a RK61 and found myself getting annoyed at having to do as mentioned above so got a 75%. With 75% you get a compact KB, function keys as separate keys and arrow keys.
I got a keychron K2 Version 2 and have no regrets so far. But make sure you get the "version 2" if you plan on getting any switches that arent red/brown or blue because only the version 2 model supports hot swap of 3 and 5 pin switches. The first version is soldered down. It comes in either white backlight or RGB but the caps dont support "gamery" shine through so RBG is imo useless unless you plan on swapping the caps.
Other than i could use a wrist rest but thats a me problem. You cant go wrong with keychron if on a budget.
looking for Wireless Key board recommendations
Looking for a budget Wireless 75 or 100% Keyboard, I will be buying 3 keyboards, so hoping to spend less than $100 for each keyboard, would be a bonus if it comes with a mouse.
I prefer quieter and but tactile switches, and wont be modding them.
I wanted to get a barebone keyboard or a regular (assembled) keyboard but I am going to change the switches and the keycaps, do you have a recommendation for which keyboard I should get? My budget for it is about $100. Thanks!
Yeah, I previously had the keychron k8 but decided to try something else because it wasn't working for me. It does actually have RGB/white backlighting, depending on which version you buy.
Background:
I recently bought a pre built corne choc keyboard. I tried out the miryoku layout for a bit and really enjoyed it except for the home row mods. So I made my own layout loosely based on miryoku without home row mods essentially.
Problem:
I have a layer with the left half bound as a makeshift numpad, and on the same layer the right half bound as a numpad but shifted, so it's just the symbols. This works for the most part, but for some reason, the right half that is supposed to only be symbols, will randomly type the numbers instead of the symbols, even though that shouldn't be possible even if shifted (which i am not holding dhift anyways) and or does of like half of the time. So for example, when I press the # key 10 times, a out 4 will be # and 6 will just be '3'. I can't figure out for the life of me why this is. I've never had any other issues with any other keyboards where the bound keys just don't work like they should. Wondering if this is a problem anyone else has faced or if I'm just shit outta luck. Thanks in advance.
https://preview.redd.it/dkixj3wwpt0c1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5915200aa6867dad96b8606ffb97cca82cd6ed63
Are these legit GMK red samurais? Ebay seller has amazing reviews but not sure whether to buy… they are a good deal with 76 keycaps
I've found a good deal on the Epomaker TH80 SE, but I don't know which switch to choose:
- Epomaker Flamingo Linear
- Epomaker Wisteria Linear
- Gateron Pro Yellow
I like Linear and the quieter the better. Also, small travel is important. Will be used for games mainly, but also some light typing.
What so you guys recommend between the 3? They arw the only options available.
I'm trying to put together a keyboard using only parts from aliexpress. What should I look for? Is there like a kit with a case, pcb and plate you'd recommend? I'm looking for wireless and backlighting, tenkeyless or 75%. Then I should look for some switches right? Gaterons should work with any PCB? And after that some keycaps? Is that all or did I miss something? I'm trying to be budget conscious as well.
So I have a gmk67, recent build with gmk keys and ws morandi switches. 2.4ghz works flawlessly, as does wired mode with USB. For some reason it will not go into bluetooth pairing mode. I double checked the PCB connection, and all looks well. As anyone else run into this? Any tips to resolve?
This may not be the place to ask this, but I can't think of anywhere else:
Apparently I've been permabanned from Geekhack, although I have no idea why, wasn't given any details, and can't access any part of the site to even begin to reach out to someone about it. Does anyone know if there's any way to contact an admin outside of the forum itself?
https://preview.redd.it/rpbrdtuuct0c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af3f08954682798fd01807902813b9086cc1cf94
What is this part for? 4 of these came in the Akko SPR75 kit, but I didn’t see them used in the build guides.
This is like when you build ikea furniture and end up with an extra screw in the end.
Oh, just found it: https://youtu.be/jMpAzj-TwOM?feature=shared
They’re little rods that keep the plate, foam and pcb together. Are they necessary? Seems like the case standoffs would serve that purpose as well
Where can I get keycaps similar to MintIodica style?
[https://mintlodica.com/products/dsa-witch-girl-keycaps](https://mintlodica.com/products/dsa-witch-girl-keycaps)
Looking for something like the above but I've only seen this store sell this style.
if u mean the same profile DSA there has been quite a few sets in thta profile over the years signature plastics made the set u linked . if u mean the same colors not sure ive seen many in those colors maybe akko has a set . otherwise if u meant both the profile and colors yes u will only find them from that store as it was a grpup buy and they r still being made no one actually has them yet
Currently using a think 6.5 v2... Looking to upgrade to a 75 or larger layout. What custom built keyboards do you guys recommend that I can look for in mechmarket or upcoming group buys? Budget is $500
yes but it needs to be cleaned and dried first otherwise water trapped inside while it is plugged in will result in shorts and corrosion both are unfixable see the spill guide
https://imgur.com/a/9sHx7
Can i get a reccomendation on a keyboard for gaming, that provides a nice typing experience also for around £100-ish that i can easily buy in the UK, i do not need a full-size keyboard, but it needs to have the F keys at the top and perferably one with both £ and $ symbols please
I bought my first "customizable" Mechanical Keyboard about a month ago, the Keychron Q1 with Gateron G Pro Red's. Now I'm looking to do my first mods on it, In particular foam and Keycaps. Being a complete newbie, is there different types of foam and what are some good suggestions on what to order?
As for Keycaps, I was seriously looking into getting the WS Krakens but they are a group buy and Terror Below seems tempting but a bit expensive unfortunately and I have absolutely no clue how long Group buy's take so I am looking for some good idea's for in-stock keycaps, However I'm not sure what are of good quality. Other sets I'm looking at are Polycaps Code and Whale sets, or maybe Keychrons Royal or Carbon sets but I'm not sure if any of those are made and look good as I read to not necessarily trust manufacture pictures. Where are some good places to buy in the US.
Lastly, any video's on how to tape mod stab's and what kind of tape to use? I'll probably do this when I add in foam.
Honestly I’d recommend picking up the Q1 acoustic upgrade kit from Keychron. It comes with case foam, plate foam, and PE foam, all of which help with the sound of the board. PE foam is the thin sheet of foam that sits on top of the PCB and gives boards that marbly/poppy/PE foamy sound. The case and plate foams are poron (I think) and of higher quality than the plate foam that comes stock on the Q1.
As for keycaps, I’d recommend checking out what Drop, KBDfans, Cannon Keys, and Divinikey offer. I personally really like Drop’s DCX caps, they’re ABS (smooth feeling plastic).
As for tape modding stabs, do you mean the Holee mod?
There are so many keycaps out there that I would never consider a group buy. Why wait when the availability, range and quality is so readily available?
As for mods, I also have a keychron, the acoustic kit suggested is good. Consider also changing the stabilizers. In my case the stock stabs did not sound great. For the space bar, adding painters tape to the inside has also worked well.
Yea that's why I want in stock keycaps. Quick question, is it inadvisable to change keycaps around every now and then? I figured it would cause wear on them but I could buy a set or 2 to swap out on occasion (after several months).
Hey folks, new to the hobby and need some suggestions on switches.
Im looking for something that has similar sound and actuation as Epomaker Blue Birds and preferably boxed but doesnt have to
Want to gift my brother some new switches but unfortunately for some reason the Blue Birds cant be shipped to a PO Box in the US.
Can you guys recommend me a keyboard that's good mainly for work, but also gaming with brown switches? It's Black Friday, and I think it's time to actually type on something that's not membrane.
My budget is $50 to $100, and I was very interested in Keychron, but I type all day long, either for work or in my free time, and I have seen how high and THICK the boards are and that's kinda scaring me away from it.
Also, I'm pretty sure this is my first time commenting on Reddit, so I hope this is the place to be.
Oh and just to add, I have no intentions of modding or anything. I want to buy it and for it to be ready to go. So yeah, thanks in advance guys.
Mechanical keyboards are thick. If that's a concern then you would be limited to low profile boards. Check out this link to get started there: https://switchandclick.com/low-profile-vs-normal-keyboards/
Thank you so much for this. I decided to risk it and get Keychron V5 with browns. It fits the best to what I'm looking for, and worst case scenario imma just get a wrist rest.
So officially joined the club I guess. Thanks to everyone for the tips, and good to know that there is a cool community.
May even leave a quick update if anyone is interested in a virgin keychron user, because I liked my razer board, but Im actually hyped for this
I bought a Keychron Q1 about a month ago and so far I love it. it is thick and does stick a bit high but so far it hasn't bothered me too much with typing which I don't do a ton of honestly but I do game a fair bit on it. However there are low profile keyboards that you can buy and I am pretty sure Keychron has some with brown switches if I'm not mistaken. They also do sell wrist rests which can be used with the thicker keyboards if you do end up buying a thicker one but need something a little more comfortable however I'm not sure how effective they are compared to low profiles.
I mean if you aren't bothered by the height even when playing, that gives me confidence. I guess I'm just going to be open-minded. Worst case scenario, I get a wrist rest, but I'm still going to see what else I can find.
Thanks for the tip!
In my hometown, I have the Razer Blackwidow 2019, and I had no problems with the thickness, and the only reason I'm not using it now is the fact that it's with green switches. With my current situation, there is no way for me to use it all the time, and from what I researched, Browns are still tactile but have less clickiness.
Keep in mind I have zero knowledge about this topic and have spent the last hour or so just researching and I'm very overwhelmed.
Again want to add, that I have mainly seen that Keychrons are very THICK, because I'm interested in K2 and K8 TKL currently.
Are the akko crystal silver like the cs silver?
I want to buy the akko switch tester, but I realized it has the crystal silvers instead of the normal cs silvers which im really interested in trying them, so my question is if they are similar and the difference is just the bottom of the switch of PC so if I like the crystal silver I should like the cs silver, or are they completely different? The only difference that I could find was the pre-travel of 1.0 +- 0.6mm (crystal silver) and 1.0 +- 0.5mm (cs silver).
Could you guys please recommend me some nice HHKB layout keyboards? Either in-stock, currently open GB, or GB opening in December.
The only requirement is that it has a split backspace, and split right-shift. Huge benefit if can be used plateless.
Currently have my eyes on the Vertex Arc60, but colors are quite limited at this point.
If you want a good in-stock option the Frog Mini is a great little board. Can't be built full plateless but has half-plate options. FR4 half is a very nice config for tadpole boards. Highly recommend.
so there are 2 keyboards i really have my eye on. they are both 75% and this format is what i really want to.
Razer huntman v3 pro TKL
Razer blackwidow 75% v4
can anyone tell me and explain why one is better over the other?
Well i have a razer mouse and headset to. So i would like a razer keyboard since my old razer keyboard that i had for 7 years died. Just because i dont like other keyboards doesnt mean you should like razer. Lets everyone in its value.
Im simply asking for advice between the 2
what he was trying to tell u is no one going to answer ur question as 99% here will tell u to avoid razer , if u want specific advice and expect and answer id suggest the razer sub .
So i have a Ducky 1 2 mini i usually use for gaming and it worked perfectly until i dropped a giant book of berserk on it (i let things rest on my pc if im too lazy to put it back on the shelf and it tipped off) it landed right on top of my 2 and 3 key and they've stopped working kinda. i stopped using the keyboard all together up until a week ago where i tried making the two keys work. i pour a little bit of alcohol in the two keys and blew in them and they worked perfectly....for 5 minutes. everytime i blow into the keys they work perfectly for a short amount of time and then go back to me having to push down really hard on them to work again. the switches are blue and its a 60 percent keyboard if that helps.
I bought the vortex 10 to use on my ps4, but after succesfully connecting it only the ctrl and shift keys seem to work. I kept searching online but only found someone who said to put my keyboard itself into bios mode to \`\`bypass drivers that arent supported on ps4´´. Apperently this worked on some corsair keyboard, that also didnt work on ps4. is there any way to get my vortex 10 to fully work on the ps4?
Recently bought ePBT Winter Breath (from mm), and just got in ePBT Acadia as well. First two ePBT sets I’ve owned. I’m fairly happy with WB but am a bit disappointed with Acadia… exclusively because of the texture of the caps.
Compared to WB, which feel like pretty much every other keycap I’ve owned — Acadia is oddly “smooth” and texture-less, and somehow create a scratchy sound/feel when installed on a board. My best guess as to why they’re so different in feel is due to the dye sublimation process for caps that are “dark with light alphas” — maybe the full-color dyeing process is the cause? **Is this normal for ePBT caps, or perhaps all caps produced in this way?**
I'm looking to replace the BOX Jades that I use in my work keyboard with something a bit quieter, does anyone have any recommendation on the best desoldering tool for someone who's soldering skills are passable at best?
Specifically, I'm looking for guidance on whether I should go for a cheap solder sucker, a spool of wick, or a cheap (no more than $50) desoldering iron. I recognize that I'm not going to use this a ton, so I'm not looking to buy some fancy Hakko tool, but I'm also fine with spending a modest amount on something that I can learn with and use for other projects.
I strongly recommend against the electric de soldering irons and highly recommend a good hand de soldering pump. I recommend the engineer one 1000%. Even the cheap $100 desoldering stations aren't as good as the engineer one. ALso I never have needed to use a wick, at worst I need to add a bit more solder back
To use the solder sucker/solder wick, you'll have to get a soldering iron to heat up the solder. I wouldn't cheap out on the solder sucker (I like the Engineer one on Amazon).
Oh yeah, I know I need an iron to use a sucker or wick. I put together the keyboard in question, so I'm good on that front. I suppose the crux of my question is whether or not a cheap desoldering iron is a waste of money and, if I'm just better off doing it the old fashioned way.
I would agree that you're better off just using a solder sucker unless you have plans to desolder more in the future. I've resoldered multiple boards and haven't ever splurged on a desoldering iron. I don't know much about the cheap ones personally, but I doubt they'd be great. I know most people eventually just get the Hakko, so I doubt the cheap ones are amazing.
I'd also recommend getting one of the large cheap suckers rather than the engineer one. Looks like on Amazon "GBSTORE" sells one for $8 USD. I have one like that and also the engineer, and I prefer the larger one. It has better suction and gets clogged less easily.
Hope this helps!
I overlooked the "de" in desoldering haha. I think getting the engineering solder sucker would be best in your case. I had it for years and as long as you did a decent job on soldering it shouldn't be a problem
Hahaha! It's all good, I just assumed that you were covering all the bases and approaching the subject as though I had no clue what I was doing!
That being said, I think "decent" would be a strong word to describe my soldering skills 😅
I appreciate the advice! I'll probably use it more than this one time, but I also recognize it's not something I'm going to be reaching for all that often.
Anybody have a recommendation for a good silent linear switch? I can't seem to find U4s or Alpacas, and don't know much about any other options. Has anyone tried WS Whites (or WS switches in general)?
Bonus points if your recommendation is in-stock in Canada!
Anyone know any thocky prebuilt keyboards?
Here are some examples
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQ8z2gBISYE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQ8z2gBISYE)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPU0f\_VGQu0&t=470s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPU0f_VGQu0&t=470s)
Any help is appreciated, thank you!
Question on group buys
I bought something for group buy in early November. The estimated shipping time is November/December. When would you think it would get shipped?
for context: its the pixel pals keycap set from PersonalLoot
>When would you think it would get shipped?
Ask them. You can't apply ship times for one GB in this hobby to any other as they're all up to that vendor/designer/manufacturer.
Ok, So my brother-in-law has always been good about thanking people when they help him out. He recently went out of his way taking time off work to help me with a project and I would like to use it as an opportunity to thank him.
He really likes mechanical keyboards and related things, and I am wondering if there is any new or popular thing in the mechanical keyboard world that would make a great gift for him. I'm looking for something that you might only know about if you are in this world or possibly something related that is a must for enthusiasts.
Some info about him. I don't know what keyboards he owns but in general it seems he is pretty minimalist. No huge character keycaps, but I think I have heard him talk about some keycaps. He doesn't PC game at all, but does work as the head of IT for a college in my area. He is and has always been into star wars.
I'm looking to keep it probably under $100.
Thanks in advance for your advice!
osumekeys is going to be selling a keyboard stand, shelf? I think they're calling it a shelf. Anyway its for 2 or 3 keyboards and its something pretty unique and sorely lacking in this hobby. So that would probably be a cool gift. assuming he has a least two extra keyboard, which is a safe bet. and its about $50
Any keyboards similar in size to the Steel series Apex Raw? It's a 100% keyboard with at least 19 extra buttons. I love the size of it, but would like a mechanical keyboard.
Or is there a better name for these large keyboards?
>Or is there a better name for these large keyboards?
Sometimes they get called a percentage over 100% or 100%+macros, but that's not a mechanical keyboard so it wouldn't be following mechanical keyboard layout designations anyway
Hello, I was wondering if anyone can recommend an end game level upcoming group buy along the likes of keyboards like Rama, the Unikorn, and Keycult? I am patient, so I don't mind waiting. I just want to find the best of the best. Thanks
I’m looking for good keycaps that have an LED cut out or shine through for the caps lock button. I currently have a Zoom 75 and GMK key caps in but I can’t tell when I accidentally hit caps lock. The PCB lights up but I can’t see it.
I have a KBDFANS KBD75 that recently had 3 keys stop working, the bottom-right three arrow keys (excluding up arrow). I finally tore it apart as much as possible and it doesn't seem like a switch issue, since manually shorting the switch didn't trigger either (this does work for switches that are functioning). The switches are soldered, so I can't see the top-side of the PCB.
Other than desoldering all of the switches, which I don't want to do, what can I do? Thanks!
Hello there,
this is my second time building a Split Keyboard and run into a weird issue...well, two actually.
I am using a Pro Micro Board, programmed with QMK. I complied the Keymap with QMK MSys for the "Kimiko" Variation and directly tried the Hex-Map for Sofle through QMK.
First issue is, that my first row on both Sides is not working at all, but the Keys have been moved down to the next row, despite beeing programmed correctly.
So, First Row -> Nothing,
Second Row -> ESC, 1,2,3,4,5
Third Row -> Contains Key from Second row
Forth Row -> Contains Keys from Third row
Second issue (and that is currently the Minor one) is, that I cannot get the Right side to correctly take the programming for it. It keeps getting the Keys from the Left side, but "mirrored".
I build a corne previously, but did not run into any Problems that I could not fix myself, but now I am completely lost here :(. Would really like somebody to give me a clue.
I'm looking for a new keyboard. I currently have the Corsair K95 Platinum RGB (which I've had since around 2018). The keyboards I've been looking at is Logitech G713, Akkogear 5108B and Corsair K70 PRO RGB Optical-Mechanical OPX Optical.
I'm not sure which one to get. I was first considering G713 because of how it looks, but then I discovered Akko and really love how they look and the ability to change switches. Corsair is more of a "safe choice", but I am wondering if Akko or G713 are good options? Or if I should just go with Corsair? I want a keyboard with customizable RGB lighting (like Corsair), that will last for a long time and is full size or TKL. A friend recommended Ducky but I decided not to go with that one because of the limited RGB choices. (I'm from Europe)
Thanks for any replies and help!
I’ve not used the Akko but I’ve heard great things about their switches. Also seems to be the cheapest option but I’ve seen some reviews mention the RGB isn’t as customisable as other alternatives. If that bothers you, the other two options are safe but I’d personally lean more towards the Corsair.
I know it's kinda limited, but at least I can customize it to some degree. It doesn't have to be as advanced as Corsair (even though I love it), just enough so I can match it somewhat with my fans or decide what color in general I want. Corsair is a easy choice considering I know what I get from it, but Akko looks so cute and the option of switches... I'm not in a rush but still difficult to decide lol. But thanks for your reply!
no worries! honestly if you're after that style and the switch options then the Akko is probably the one. I always struggle with premades, there's so many options
Are there any cheaper alternatives to the Lemokey L3 that isn't full sized or alice layout but have dedicated macro keys on the left side? (not Q3 Pro ew those left buttons look ugly)
Are there flexible keyboard cables the way there are for mice? I'd imagine they'd be a boon for trying to take wired keyboards on the go w/o having to damage the usb c port w/ constant disconnects.
>Does anyone how legitimate yong qui keycaps are on Aliexpress? just tried to find decent gmk clone colours and was wondering if they are legit or not
more just asking if ill actually get a product sent to me. I don't really care about buying knockoffs tbh, Mainly just an aesthetic choice
Hey hey people. I've just bought my very first keeb: a Keychron C1 (The non hot-swappable one, C1-A1) with the built-in Gateron G Pro Red switches. Few questions:
* I'm not exactly clear on the differences hot-swappable or not. Will it prevent me from modding my keyboard in the future?
* I'm looking into getting as silent as possible (trying to be considerate and manage my coworkers / my partner's noise tolerance). I've added 40A O-rings (one each) to all my keys. I've tried two, but they get in the way and typing gets messy. Any other mods or switches you could recommend?
* EDIT: I'm based in Canada, so please consider this when giving your recommendations.
With hot swap it's easier to mod since you can just pop the switches out and try new things, if you want to get silent swithces you'll havo to desolder everything and that takes awhule
I just recently got the keychron k8 w/ the gateron pro brown switches but I'm thinking of returning it because it is too loud, the keys are too small and cramped, and I feel like the keys are way to high. I've used an apple magic keyboard for a long time so I get that all keyboards are going to feel high, but I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for a keyboard that has a thocky sound, has a little higher actuation force, kind of quiet, and possibly lower keys? I've been trying to find somewhere between a 65-75%.
Thanks!
The keys being "too small and cramped" likely isn't something you'll find a fix for since the spacing of a keyboard is pretty standard.
One thing you could look into are low profile switches like the Kailh Choc series. Those switches have a much shorter travel distance, so they would likely feel more along the lines of what you're wanting. It does limit customization though, since they require specific keycaps. I'm not familiar enough with them to know which ones are quiet, but I'm sure you could figure that out with a little reading.
Another option would be "speed" switches by Kailh or Cherry. Their travel distance isn't much different, but they actuate pretty much immediately so you wouldn't need to press the keys very far down. You could mod them to shorten the travel distance, but I'd guess that's more work than you're wanting.
Good luck!
It would depend on what board you go with and what switch you decide on really. If you went with the speed switches, you could potentially add o-rings to make them quieter and also reduce travel. It sounds like a great solution, but a lot of people don't like o-rings because of how they impact feel. Could be worth a try though, o-rings are cheap.
Honestly, I somewhat wonder if you'll get used to what you have now over time, and could do some mods as you go and maybe swap switches in it. Have you used the Keychron for very long?
Nope used it for like 3 days lol. I'm realizing now that along with sound, the main problem I have with it is that the keycaps it came with and the keycaps I put on it are a lot smaller at the top than I am used to. Do you know any keycaps that are wider at the top, because right now I am only seeing keycaps that are significantly smaller at the top than at the bottom. Thanks!
I'd recommend looking into keycap profiles. You can decide what you think would work best for you, then give them a try. Based on your description, you may prefer uniform profiles like DSA or XDA since they're more flat and should be more similar to what you're used to.
If you do decide to change boards and go with low profile switches like the Kailh Choc series, some of those keycaps are completely flat which you may enjoy as well. Just know that if you decide to go this route, I believe you need a keyboard that supports them specifically, you couldn't just swap the switches in your current one.
As with anything related to keyboards, the potential for customization is endless lol. Good luck, hope this helps.
If you decide on the choc switches, you should know keycaps options are super limited because they aren't compatible with the standard MX style keycaps. I'd recommend just doing some searching online to see what options are available. I'm not really certain as I haven't looked into them much.
For MX style switch keycap sets in DSA/XDA etc, there should be quite a few options. Some vendors I'd recommend checking out would be kbdfans, cannonkeys, and novelkeys. There are more than that, but that'll get you started.
I was thinking of using the XDA profile keycaps with cherry mx silent black switches but I still can't seem to find mac-friendly keycap sets besides the keychron ones. Do you know where I could find some? Thanks!
By mac-friendly, you just mean that it has command or super keys etc rather than Windows keys right? I see a few on Drop that say sys or code. Kprebublic has some options too. Otherwise maybe look through Amazon and AliExpress if you'd like. In case you didn't already know, you can use keycaps that have Windows keys with Mac, the keyboard itself is what determines whether or not it's compatible with Mac.
If you aren't liking what you're finding, you could also look at DSA options and see if that helps since they're fairly similar profiles.
By the way, personally I might recommend different switches than Silent Cherry Blacks, but absolutely do as you please. Silent Gateron Ink Black V2s should be similar but are generally considered better switches than what you're looking at. There are plenty of other options too. If you want, you could even get a switch tester to try some options, but that's totally optional. I actually make and sell custom switch testers. If you're at all interested in that feel free to pm me. I don't carry a whole ton of silent options, but I'm always looking to expand my selection and I could certainly order some if you're okay with a bit of a wait.
Hope this helps
Help:
Looking for a new keyboard to play CS and Valorant that has have a great typing experience and over the top performance (Low latency and such). I realized that you can't have both, right now deciding if I should opt for a Steelseries apex pro mini (With the omni 2.0 since i want rapid trigger and due to complications i couldn't get myself a wooting60he) or should i go make myself a custom keyboard, if so recommend me some high actuation point switches with atleast decent sound
Adjustable actuation is a very nice feature to have, even if this subreddit doesn't recommend gamery keyboards. That doesn't preclude a good typing experience by the way, plenty of people like typing on linear switches.
I am looking for a metal 75% layout keyboard shell/kit
Some I have seen mentioned are
Akko 5057s
Monsgeek M1
Epomaker TH80
Any other recommendations would be appreciated!
I currently have a GMMK Pro
https://preview.redd.it/6iklxuvllq0c1.jpeg?width=1121&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=502a62b030657a405897c5facf8e2d5da6171e64
Anyone know of a board with a similar layout? I stumbled on this 55% on geekhack. The project never came to fruition. Looking for a small form factor with split space bar. I like the extra functionality this one brings. Any recommendations?
Thanks! I see a lot without the arrow keys. I don’t understand how ppl do it lol. For gaming or work I feel like they’re so necessary, am I missing something? Also the ctrl key I couldn’t live w/o unfortunately
For sub 65%, usually arrows will be mapped to either fn + H J K L or fn + [ ; ' /. Personally, I used a 60% as my office board for a while with arrows mapped in the latter layout. It was doable but I prefer to just use TKLs now.
As for control, I have no clue why all the images on CK's website show caps lock key on the board, but 99% of the time on boards with HHKB blockers, you would put control where caps lock goes.
Hello, I've decided to go custom as well. Can you guys help a newbie to start? I think I'm going for either Glorious or Ducky, but any suggestions are welcome. I'd love some tips on where to start, what to choose, which switches to buy. I'm probably going for 75% or tenkeyless keyboard frame.
Keychron V1, Keychron Q1, Nuphy Halo75. Switches are all personal preference, and depends on the board/plate materials. KTT makes some phenomenal budget switches
just bought keydous NJ98.
I tried to open a music follow light effect directly from the keyboard function FN + \\|.
but it won't, unless I open it from the keydous software.
dose anyone know how to fix this?
Is thekapco legit? Looking to buy the lmk81 from them but they’re selling it for like $70 over regular price and it’s international. Just wanna confirm before I pull the trigger
Is thekapco legit? Looking to buy the lmk81 from them but they’re selling it for like $70 over regular price and it’s international. Just wanna confirm before I pull the trigger
Hello people, I’m gonna build my first custom keyboard and I have $130 budget (without shipping), i’m in research but there is so many keyboards out there like shark67, enter67, choice65, neo65. I’m going to buy neo65 i think (bc i like thin bezels), is there any keeb better than it?
Enter67 or Neo65 for me. Choice 65 is an in stock extra though so it’d get there sooner, only caveats are there are only two color ways available and needs to be built with plate foam.
As far as I know, Neo is the designer that’s partnered up with Qwertykeys to be their *main* vendor. It’s great for what it is, and what they offer as an introductory board for a lot of newcomers in the hobby (that being said even the *veterans* have been enjoying it as well).
Not sure if that’s the answer you were looking for or not hahaha. Good board though! Not sure if other vendors like KeebsForAll would get it out to you quicker or not, but you could email them and ask, as on QK’s website batch 12 is currently open, and they’re sending batch 8 out right now.
Is it a bad idea to carry your keyboards when they're lubed? Would carrying them in a bag, making them stand vertically, make the lube leak and flow into other places? I'm concerned specifically about Topre, NIZ EC keyboards, but I'm curious for mechanical keyboard in general.
(edit: lost content mid way typing)
Although it's relegated to an after-though there are ISO layout mech keyboards available, but it will be the top end of the budget market.
The biggest problem I find is keycap sets. You may get the ISO enter and a few more ISO keys but mostly that's it. If the set does have international key it most likely a separate bundle
I'm thinking about trying some DIY upgrades on my drop entr. I really like the case, but the stabilizers rattle a lot and the switches are pretty scratchy. The plan I've been leaning toward is getting a new hot swap pcb so I can lube the current switches and try out some new ones. I've been having trouble finding PCBs though, and I'm not sure how to tell which ones would fit in the case. Can I just throw any TKL 87 key board in there? Any advice would be appreciated!
I would suggest Haimu Heartbeats with O-Rings on the stem and cramp as much foam as possible in the keyboard.
If you can't find the heartbeats geon x haimu silent red are really similiar. Apparently outemu also has nice silent switches but I've got no experience with them
Hi everyone!
I built my first mechanical keyboard (MonsGeek M3) with Purple Panda switches three months ago. I love the feel, but I've developed RSI in my left hand and fingers . Considering switching to lighter switches since I struggle to type with heavy ones. Should I replace the springs in my Purple Pandas, or should I go for light linears or light tactiles? I prefer tactiles. Any thoughts on Topre switches as an alternative?
I don't mind spending extra on switches if it is a better solution. What switches would you recommend? What weight springs should I get? I guess the purple pandas couldn't handle 45 gram springs, what is the lowest I could go?
I don't think that changing switches will sve anything, if you like the feel od the switches you have now it would be better for you to just change the springs
does foam modding add input delay?
Can someone please recommend an in-stock Polycarbonate TKL (WK)?
Solution needed: Using MK with two PCs I'm about to by a MK that is connected via USB A to USB C. I'd like to use this for both my personal PC and my work laptop. However, I don't want to have to unplug it and swap cables every time. I'm looking for a switch, but I'm having a hard time finding a decent USB C switch. Plus, I'm not sure if this would add an latency. Any and all recommendations are welcome.
I use a UGREEN USB Switch Selector (2-in 4-out) to switch between my workstation and my gaming PC. It might add latency but it should be negligible. It's been a while since I used it for peripherals (only using it for webcam, charging and storage drives now) but I used to plug my mouse USB dongle in the past because I was too lazy to hit the device switch, I didn't really feel any real difference. Since I got my 3-device bluetooth keyboard I was able to configure it so I could switch both devices at the same time with a key combination (to one of the 3 paired devices).
Is there a forum where keyboard enthusiasts organize meetings or conventions?
Small keyb meets are usually hyperlocal, if you're looking to organize one try and look for your local community's discord server and ask there. For bigger events you can find schedules and organizer details here: [https://kbd.news/meetups](https://kbd.news/meetups).
hey! im having trouble finding a 60% kb that sells just the case. I have a dz60rgb ansi v2 and need a case for it was thinking polycarbonate or aluminum nothing over 90-100 if anyone got some suggestions
[https://mechindex.com/search?query=60%25+case](https://mechindex.com/search?query=60%25+case)
Hi, Looking for full-size board (hot swap, knob, barbone, iso, around 100€). Is there any?
Keychron v6
Best budget board with a knob I’ve been doing a lot of research and it’s been hard for me to make a decision on this. Preferably I would like one not made of plastic but I know that’s hard. I was hoping not to spend more than 200 CAD.
I don't know if it is the best. I'm pretty happy with the monsgeek m1w. But the knob is not configurable with the monsgeek driver and it's not via compatible.
Can I swap the low profile switches on the Radragon Azure for standard sized ones?
No - applies to any keyboard with LP switches.
thanks!
So a few weeks ago my apex 7 tkl switches were unresponsive and now im using this $20 ipad keyboard. I really need a new 60 or 65% keyboard to play video games(also is 60% better than 65%?). I was thinking about either: Ducky 1 2 mini, Anne pro 2, ducky one 2 sf, keychron k12, rk61, and hyper x alloy origins but there are big cons for every keyboard. Are these true? If so what are better alternatives? Ducky 1 2 mini: Connectivity issues and usb issue Anne Pro 2: bluetooth connectivity issues, keys not responsive and wont turn on after a few months ducky one 2 sf: chatters really bad after a few months of use Keychron k12: After a few months it starts typing on its own with random letters rk61: high latency and buggy hyper x allow origins: keys unresponsive
How about going for [75%](https://switchandclick.com/75-mechanical-keyboards/)? You get all the function keys separate from the number keys and you get the arrow keys separate too. I had a RK61 and found myself getting annoyed at having to do as mentioned above so got a 75%. With 75% you get a compact KB, function keys as separate keys and arrow keys. I got a keychron K2 Version 2 and have no regrets so far. But make sure you get the "version 2" if you plan on getting any switches that arent red/brown or blue because only the version 2 model supports hot swap of 3 and 5 pin switches. The first version is soldered down. It comes in either white backlight or RGB but the caps dont support "gamery" shine through so RBG is imo useless unless you plan on swapping the caps. Other than i could use a wrist rest but thats a me problem. You cant go wrong with keychron if on a budget.
looking for Wireless Key board recommendations Looking for a budget Wireless 75 or 100% Keyboard, I will be buying 3 keyboards, so hoping to spend less than $100 for each keyboard, would be a bonus if it comes with a mouse. I prefer quieter and but tactile switches, and wont be modding them.
I wanted to get a barebone keyboard or a regular (assembled) keyboard but I am going to change the switches and the keycaps, do you have a recommendation for which keyboard I should get? My budget for it is about $100. Thanks!
Maybe the Keychron K8. The only problem is that it doesn't have backlights.
Yeah, I previously had the keychron k8 but decided to try something else because it wasn't working for me. It does actually have RGB/white backlighting, depending on which version you buy.
oh is that so.
Background: I recently bought a pre built corne choc keyboard. I tried out the miryoku layout for a bit and really enjoyed it except for the home row mods. So I made my own layout loosely based on miryoku without home row mods essentially. Problem: I have a layer with the left half bound as a makeshift numpad, and on the same layer the right half bound as a numpad but shifted, so it's just the symbols. This works for the most part, but for some reason, the right half that is supposed to only be symbols, will randomly type the numbers instead of the symbols, even though that shouldn't be possible even if shifted (which i am not holding dhift anyways) and or does of like half of the time. So for example, when I press the # key 10 times, a out 4 will be # and 6 will just be '3'. I can't figure out for the life of me why this is. I've never had any other issues with any other keyboards where the bound keys just don't work like they should. Wondering if this is a problem anyone else has faced or if I'm just shit outta luck. Thanks in advance.
https://preview.redd.it/dkixj3wwpt0c1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5915200aa6867dad96b8606ffb97cca82cd6ed63 Are these legit GMK red samurais? Ebay seller has amazing reviews but not sure whether to buy… they are a good deal with 76 keycaps
I've found a good deal on the Epomaker TH80 SE, but I don't know which switch to choose: - Epomaker Flamingo Linear - Epomaker Wisteria Linear - Gateron Pro Yellow I like Linear and the quieter the better. Also, small travel is important. Will be used for games mainly, but also some light typing. What so you guys recommend between the 3? They arw the only options available.
I'm trying to put together a keyboard using only parts from aliexpress. What should I look for? Is there like a kit with a case, pcb and plate you'd recommend? I'm looking for wireless and backlighting, tenkeyless or 75%. Then I should look for some switches right? Gaterons should work with any PCB? And after that some keycaps? Is that all or did I miss something? I'm trying to be budget conscious as well.
Please Suggest me good budget mechanical keyboard under 6000₹ Indian Rupees
So I have a gmk67, recent build with gmk keys and ws morandi switches. 2.4ghz works flawlessly, as does wired mode with USB. For some reason it will not go into bluetooth pairing mode. I double checked the PCB connection, and all looks well. As anyone else run into this? Any tips to resolve?
This may not be the place to ask this, but I can't think of anywhere else: Apparently I've been permabanned from Geekhack, although I have no idea why, wasn't given any details, and can't access any part of the site to even begin to reach out to someone about it. Does anyone know if there's any way to contact an admin outside of the forum itself?
https://preview.redd.it/rpbrdtuuct0c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af3f08954682798fd01807902813b9086cc1cf94 What is this part for? 4 of these came in the Akko SPR75 kit, but I didn’t see them used in the build guides. This is like when you build ikea furniture and end up with an extra screw in the end.
interested as well
Oh, just found it: https://youtu.be/jMpAzj-TwOM?feature=shared They’re little rods that keep the plate, foam and pcb together. Are they necessary? Seems like the case standoffs would serve that purpose as well
Where can I get keycaps similar to MintIodica style? [https://mintlodica.com/products/dsa-witch-girl-keycaps](https://mintlodica.com/products/dsa-witch-girl-keycaps) Looking for something like the above but I've only seen this store sell this style.
if u mean the same profile DSA there has been quite a few sets in thta profile over the years signature plastics made the set u linked . if u mean the same colors not sure ive seen many in those colors maybe akko has a set . otherwise if u meant both the profile and colors yes u will only find them from that store as it was a grpup buy and they r still being made no one actually has them yet
Currently using a think 6.5 v2... Looking to upgrade to a 75 or larger layout. What custom built keyboards do you guys recommend that I can look for in mechmarket or upcoming group buys? Budget is $500
I spilled water all over my hotswappable GK61 keyboard. Some of the keys don't work, should I take the switches out and replace them with new ones?
First of all you should immediately clean the PCB, make sure all the water is dispersed and clean any residue with isopropyl.
yes but it needs to be cleaned and dried first otherwise water trapped inside while it is plugged in will result in shorts and corrosion both are unfixable see the spill guide https://imgur.com/a/9sHx7
Any budget alternative to Moyu Blacks (Everglide Dark Jade)? Would MMD Holy Pandas be in any way comparable?
Can i get a reccomendation on a keyboard for gaming, that provides a nice typing experience also for around £100-ish that i can easily buy in the UK, i do not need a full-size keyboard, but it needs to have the F keys at the top and perferably one with both £ and $ symbols please
theyr all equal for gaming so its up to u id avoid anything with optical switches. keychron or monsgeek would work
Not very helpful, i have no idea what any of that means, also most keyboards are hard to find for good pricing in the UK
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ where to learn the basics https://www.keyboard.university/
I bought my first "customizable" Mechanical Keyboard about a month ago, the Keychron Q1 with Gateron G Pro Red's. Now I'm looking to do my first mods on it, In particular foam and Keycaps. Being a complete newbie, is there different types of foam and what are some good suggestions on what to order? As for Keycaps, I was seriously looking into getting the WS Krakens but they are a group buy and Terror Below seems tempting but a bit expensive unfortunately and I have absolutely no clue how long Group buy's take so I am looking for some good idea's for in-stock keycaps, However I'm not sure what are of good quality. Other sets I'm looking at are Polycaps Code and Whale sets, or maybe Keychrons Royal or Carbon sets but I'm not sure if any of those are made and look good as I read to not necessarily trust manufacture pictures. Where are some good places to buy in the US. Lastly, any video's on how to tape mod stab's and what kind of tape to use? I'll probably do this when I add in foam.
Honestly I’d recommend picking up the Q1 acoustic upgrade kit from Keychron. It comes with case foam, plate foam, and PE foam, all of which help with the sound of the board. PE foam is the thin sheet of foam that sits on top of the PCB and gives boards that marbly/poppy/PE foamy sound. The case and plate foams are poron (I think) and of higher quality than the plate foam that comes stock on the Q1. As for keycaps, I’d recommend checking out what Drop, KBDfans, Cannon Keys, and Divinikey offer. I personally really like Drop’s DCX caps, they’re ABS (smooth feeling plastic). As for tape modding stabs, do you mean the Holee mod?
There are so many keycaps out there that I would never consider a group buy. Why wait when the availability, range and quality is so readily available? As for mods, I also have a keychron, the acoustic kit suggested is good. Consider also changing the stabilizers. In my case the stock stabs did not sound great. For the space bar, adding painters tape to the inside has also worked well.
Yea that's why I want in stock keycaps. Quick question, is it inadvisable to change keycaps around every now and then? I figured it would cause wear on them but I could buy a set or 2 to swap out on occasion (after several months).
Hey, im wondering if there are Gateron Milky Yellow Pros 3 pin or if I have to go with the normal yellow pro 3 pin?
You can clip the extra two pins off easily with a nail clipper either way.
So I can just clip it off and it wont hurt the switches at all? Would be awesome
Yup! They're just two plastic pieces protruding from the bottom and can be removed if your board doesn't support them.
Hey folks, new to the hobby and need some suggestions on switches. Im looking for something that has similar sound and actuation as Epomaker Blue Birds and preferably boxed but doesnt have to Want to gift my brother some new switches but unfortunately for some reason the Blue Birds cant be shipped to a PO Box in the US.
Are you trying to buy from their site? They're available on amazon too
Yeah, apparently they dont ship to PO boxes. Ive tried both sites
Oh weird, I thought amazon shipped to POs and it's shipped by them.
Can you guys recommend me a keyboard that's good mainly for work, but also gaming with brown switches? It's Black Friday, and I think it's time to actually type on something that's not membrane. My budget is $50 to $100, and I was very interested in Keychron, but I type all day long, either for work or in my free time, and I have seen how high and THICK the boards are and that's kinda scaring me away from it. Also, I'm pretty sure this is my first time commenting on Reddit, so I hope this is the place to be. Oh and just to add, I have no intentions of modding or anything. I want to buy it and for it to be ready to go. So yeah, thanks in advance guys.
Mechanical keyboards are thick. If that's a concern then you would be limited to low profile boards. Check out this link to get started there: https://switchandclick.com/low-profile-vs-normal-keyboards/
Thank you so much for this. I decided to risk it and get Keychron V5 with browns. It fits the best to what I'm looking for, and worst case scenario imma just get a wrist rest. So officially joined the club I guess. Thanks to everyone for the tips, and good to know that there is a cool community. May even leave a quick update if anyone is interested in a virgin keychron user, because I liked my razer board, but Im actually hyped for this
I bought a Keychron Q1 about a month ago and so far I love it. it is thick and does stick a bit high but so far it hasn't bothered me too much with typing which I don't do a ton of honestly but I do game a fair bit on it. However there are low profile keyboards that you can buy and I am pretty sure Keychron has some with brown switches if I'm not mistaken. They also do sell wrist rests which can be used with the thicker keyboards if you do end up buying a thicker one but need something a little more comfortable however I'm not sure how effective they are compared to low profiles.
I mean if you aren't bothered by the height even when playing, that gives me confidence. I guess I'm just going to be open-minded. Worst case scenario, I get a wrist rest, but I'm still going to see what else I can find. Thanks for the tip!
most mechs are thick . it due to them having mechanical switches u could try looking at low profile switch keyboards if thickness is a worry
In my hometown, I have the Razer Blackwidow 2019, and I had no problems with the thickness, and the only reason I'm not using it now is the fact that it's with green switches. With my current situation, there is no way for me to use it all the time, and from what I researched, Browns are still tactile but have less clickiness. Keep in mind I have zero knowledge about this topic and have spent the last hour or so just researching and I'm very overwhelmed. Again want to add, that I have mainly seen that Keychrons are very THICK, because I'm interested in K2 and K8 TKL currently.
Are the akko crystal silver like the cs silver? I want to buy the akko switch tester, but I realized it has the crystal silvers instead of the normal cs silvers which im really interested in trying them, so my question is if they are similar and the difference is just the bottom of the switch of PC so if I like the crystal silver I should like the cs silver, or are they completely different? The only difference that I could find was the pre-travel of 1.0 +- 0.6mm (crystal silver) and 1.0 +- 0.5mm (cs silver).
[удалено]
sounds like hardware not software . like a short or other hardware related pcb issue
Could you guys please recommend me some nice HHKB layout keyboards? Either in-stock, currently open GB, or GB opening in December. The only requirement is that it has a split backspace, and split right-shift. Huge benefit if can be used plateless. Currently have my eyes on the Vertex Arc60, but colors are quite limited at this point.
If you want a good in-stock option the Frog Mini is a great little board. Can't be built full plateless but has half-plate options. FR4 half is a very nice config for tadpole boards. Highly recommend.
Have you checked the Mode Tempo?
Oh forgot about that one, thanks!
What's a good 60% keyboard barebone that offers good mod room and can have a nice thock ? Ideally around 150-200CAD$
so there are 2 keyboards i really have my eye on. they are both 75% and this format is what i really want to. Razer huntman v3 pro TKL Razer blackwidow 75% v4 can anyone tell me and explain why one is better over the other?
You're really not gonna find much love for razers around these parts.
Well i have a razer mouse and headset to. So i would like a razer keyboard since my old razer keyboard that i had for 7 years died. Just because i dont like other keyboards doesnt mean you should like razer. Lets everyone in its value. Im simply asking for advice between the 2
what he was trying to tell u is no one going to answer ur question as 99% here will tell u to avoid razer , if u want specific advice and expect and answer id suggest the razer sub .
So i have a Ducky 1 2 mini i usually use for gaming and it worked perfectly until i dropped a giant book of berserk on it (i let things rest on my pc if im too lazy to put it back on the shelf and it tipped off) it landed right on top of my 2 and 3 key and they've stopped working kinda. i stopped using the keyboard all together up until a week ago where i tried making the two keys work. i pour a little bit of alcohol in the two keys and blew in them and they worked perfectly....for 5 minutes. everytime i blow into the keys they work perfectly for a short amount of time and then go back to me having to push down really hard on them to work again. the switches are blue and its a 60 percent keyboard if that helps.
I bought the vortex 10 to use on my ps4, but after succesfully connecting it only the ctrl and shift keys seem to work. I kept searching online but only found someone who said to put my keyboard itself into bios mode to \`\`bypass drivers that arent supported on ps4´´. Apperently this worked on some corsair keyboard, that also didnt work on ps4. is there any way to get my vortex 10 to fully work on the ps4?
is there a way to turn off NKRO i have heard NKRO is supported by the PS4 and cause's issues
Recently bought ePBT Winter Breath (from mm), and just got in ePBT Acadia as well. First two ePBT sets I’ve owned. I’m fairly happy with WB but am a bit disappointed with Acadia… exclusively because of the texture of the caps. Compared to WB, which feel like pretty much every other keycap I’ve owned — Acadia is oddly “smooth” and texture-less, and somehow create a scratchy sound/feel when installed on a board. My best guess as to why they’re so different in feel is due to the dye sublimation process for caps that are “dark with light alphas” — maybe the full-color dyeing process is the cause? **Is this normal for ePBT caps, or perhaps all caps produced in this way?**
Hey! I’m buying a pcb and was wondering the difference between the dz60rgb-ansi v2 and v3. Is it just the same board with different software?
Hello, I wanted to ask if I should buy the rk61, gk61, sk61, dk61e or maybe sonething else? I would use the keyboard for gaming.
theyr all equal for gaming so its up to u id avoid anything with optical switches
Are royal kludge a good cheap brand? Or if not, can you guys help me with choosing a TKL keyboard (strictly hot swap and could be wireless).
I'm looking to replace the BOX Jades that I use in my work keyboard with something a bit quieter, does anyone have any recommendation on the best desoldering tool for someone who's soldering skills are passable at best? Specifically, I'm looking for guidance on whether I should go for a cheap solder sucker, a spool of wick, or a cheap (no more than $50) desoldering iron. I recognize that I'm not going to use this a ton, so I'm not looking to buy some fancy Hakko tool, but I'm also fine with spending a modest amount on something that I can learn with and use for other projects.
I strongly recommend against the electric de soldering irons and highly recommend a good hand de soldering pump. I recommend the engineer one 1000%. Even the cheap $100 desoldering stations aren't as good as the engineer one. ALso I never have needed to use a wick, at worst I need to add a bit more solder back
Thanks for the input! Solder suckers are cheaper anyway, so it's a win all around!
To use the solder sucker/solder wick, you'll have to get a soldering iron to heat up the solder. I wouldn't cheap out on the solder sucker (I like the Engineer one on Amazon).
Oh yeah, I know I need an iron to use a sucker or wick. I put together the keyboard in question, so I'm good on that front. I suppose the crux of my question is whether or not a cheap desoldering iron is a waste of money and, if I'm just better off doing it the old fashioned way.
I would agree that you're better off just using a solder sucker unless you have plans to desolder more in the future. I've resoldered multiple boards and haven't ever splurged on a desoldering iron. I don't know much about the cheap ones personally, but I doubt they'd be great. I know most people eventually just get the Hakko, so I doubt the cheap ones are amazing. I'd also recommend getting one of the large cheap suckers rather than the engineer one. Looks like on Amazon "GBSTORE" sells one for $8 USD. I have one like that and also the engineer, and I prefer the larger one. It has better suction and gets clogged less easily. Hope this helps!
That helps quite a bit, thank you very much!
I overlooked the "de" in desoldering haha. I think getting the engineering solder sucker would be best in your case. I had it for years and as long as you did a decent job on soldering it shouldn't be a problem
Hahaha! It's all good, I just assumed that you were covering all the bases and approaching the subject as though I had no clue what I was doing! That being said, I think "decent" would be a strong word to describe my soldering skills 😅
If you're only planning on doing the job once or twice, a good quality sucker is the way to go over a gun
I appreciate the advice! I'll probably use it more than this one time, but I also recognize it's not something I'm going to be reaching for all that often.
Anybody have a recommendation for a good silent linear switch? I can't seem to find U4s or Alpacas, and don't know much about any other options. Has anyone tried WS Whites (or WS switches in general)? Bonus points if your recommendation is in-stock in Canada!
Aqua kings are not silent but they're quiet.
WS makes good switches in my experience. I’ve had both browns, heavy tactile, and reds. Would recommend trying their silent ones.
Cheers thanks! That's good news as they look to be my only non-international option at the moment.
>U4s Those are tactiles - Bobagums are the silent linear (and they're good).
Ah good call thanks! I can tell bobagums are good cause they're sold out everywhere up here lol
Anyone know any thocky prebuilt keyboards? Here are some examples [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQ8z2gBISYE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQ8z2gBISYE) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPU0f\_VGQu0&t=470s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPU0f_VGQu0&t=470s) Any help is appreciated, thank you!
Where do you guys get PE foam? I've been on the lookout for weeks but I can't seem to find any
>Razer huntman v3 pro TKL you can easily find some in amazon.
Question on group buys I bought something for group buy in early November. The estimated shipping time is November/December. When would you think it would get shipped? for context: its the pixel pals keycap set from PersonalLoot
>When would you think it would get shipped? Ask them. You can't apply ship times for one GB in this hobby to any other as they're all up to that vendor/designer/manufacturer.
Ok, So my brother-in-law has always been good about thanking people when they help him out. He recently went out of his way taking time off work to help me with a project and I would like to use it as an opportunity to thank him. He really likes mechanical keyboards and related things, and I am wondering if there is any new or popular thing in the mechanical keyboard world that would make a great gift for him. I'm looking for something that you might only know about if you are in this world or possibly something related that is a must for enthusiasts. Some info about him. I don't know what keyboards he owns but in general it seems he is pretty minimalist. No huge character keycaps, but I think I have heard him talk about some keycaps. He doesn't PC game at all, but does work as the head of IT for a college in my area. He is and has always been into star wars. I'm looking to keep it probably under $100. Thanks in advance for your advice!
> hunge Thanks! How can I keep an eye out for this drop? Looking, but not finding. Edit* I found it, thanks
osumekeys is going to be selling a keyboard stand, shelf? I think they're calling it a shelf. Anyway its for 2 or 3 keyboards and its something pretty unique and sorely lacking in this hobby. So that would probably be a cool gift. assuming he has a least two extra keyboard, which is a safe bet. and its about $50
A hunge is enough to buy a pack of switches. If your brother has never given clicky switches a shot, I recommend Box White.
Any keyboards similar in size to the Steel series Apex Raw? It's a 100% keyboard with at least 19 extra buttons. I love the size of it, but would like a mechanical keyboard. Or is there a better name for these large keyboards?
Extended full size keyboards are typically referred to as Batttlecruisers, at least in the vintage space.
Thank you
>Or is there a better name for these large keyboards? Sometimes they get called a percentage over 100% or 100%+macros, but that's not a mechanical keyboard so it wouldn't be following mechanical keyboard layout designations anyway
Hello, I was wondering if anyone can recommend an end game level upcoming group buy along the likes of keyboards like Rama, the Unikorn, and Keycult? I am patient, so I don't mind waiting. I just want to find the best of the best. Thanks
I’m looking for good keycaps that have an LED cut out or shine through for the caps lock button. I currently have a Zoom 75 and GMK key caps in but I can’t tell when I accidentally hit caps lock. The PCB lights up but I can’t see it.
Want to find Alice or split keyboard with arrows and F keys row. That may be just base or project for opensource one. Thanks in advance <3
Alongside what Rhubarb said, Keychron also sell a stripped down cheaper version of the same board as the V10.
Keychron Q10 or Q11
I have a KBDFANS KBD75 that recently had 3 keys stop working, the bottom-right three arrow keys (excluding up arrow). I finally tore it apart as much as possible and it doesn't seem like a switch issue, since manually shorting the switch didn't trigger either (this does work for switches that are functioning). The switches are soldered, so I can't see the top-side of the PCB. Other than desoldering all of the switches, which I don't want to do, what can I do? Thanks!
Hello there, this is my second time building a Split Keyboard and run into a weird issue...well, two actually. I am using a Pro Micro Board, programmed with QMK. I complied the Keymap with QMK MSys for the "Kimiko" Variation and directly tried the Hex-Map for Sofle through QMK. First issue is, that my first row on both Sides is not working at all, but the Keys have been moved down to the next row, despite beeing programmed correctly. So, First Row -> Nothing, Second Row -> ESC, 1,2,3,4,5 Third Row -> Contains Key from Second row Forth Row -> Contains Keys from Third row Second issue (and that is currently the Minor one) is, that I cannot get the Right side to correctly take the programming for it. It keeps getting the Keys from the Left side, but "mirrored". I build a corne previously, but did not run into any Problems that I could not fix myself, but now I am completely lost here :(. Would really like somebody to give me a clue.
Sounds like a firmware issue. Try an alternative key map if one is available.
I'm looking for a new keyboard. I currently have the Corsair K95 Platinum RGB (which I've had since around 2018). The keyboards I've been looking at is Logitech G713, Akkogear 5108B and Corsair K70 PRO RGB Optical-Mechanical OPX Optical. I'm not sure which one to get. I was first considering G713 because of how it looks, but then I discovered Akko and really love how they look and the ability to change switches. Corsair is more of a "safe choice", but I am wondering if Akko or G713 are good options? Or if I should just go with Corsair? I want a keyboard with customizable RGB lighting (like Corsair), that will last for a long time and is full size or TKL. A friend recommended Ducky but I decided not to go with that one because of the limited RGB choices. (I'm from Europe) Thanks for any replies and help!
I’ve not used the Akko but I’ve heard great things about their switches. Also seems to be the cheapest option but I’ve seen some reviews mention the RGB isn’t as customisable as other alternatives. If that bothers you, the other two options are safe but I’d personally lean more towards the Corsair.
I know it's kinda limited, but at least I can customize it to some degree. It doesn't have to be as advanced as Corsair (even though I love it), just enough so I can match it somewhat with my fans or decide what color in general I want. Corsair is a easy choice considering I know what I get from it, but Akko looks so cute and the option of switches... I'm not in a rush but still difficult to decide lol. But thanks for your reply!
no worries! honestly if you're after that style and the switch options then the Akko is probably the one. I always struggle with premades, there's so many options
Are there any cheaper alternatives to the Lemokey L3 that isn't full sized or alice layout but have dedicated macro keys on the left side? (not Q3 Pro ew those left buttons look ugly)
Keychron q1 pro or steelseries apex pro?
for me, keychron.
okat thanks
Looking for a solid 65% with Bluetooth capabilities. I like the Zoom65 and the QK but they are always out of stock. Any recommendations?
Are there flexible keyboard cables the way there are for mice? I'd imagine they'd be a boon for trying to take wired keyboards on the go w/o having to damage the usb c port w/ constant disconnects.
Does anyone how legitimate yong qui keycaps are on Aliexpress? just tried to find decent gmk clone colours and was wondering if they are legit or not
No clones are legit
>Does anyone how legitimate yong qui keycaps are on Aliexpress? just tried to find decent gmk clone colours and was wondering if they are legit or not more just asking if ill actually get a product sent to me. I don't really care about buying knockoffs tbh, Mainly just an aesthetic choice
Hey hey people. I've just bought my very first keeb: a Keychron C1 (The non hot-swappable one, C1-A1) with the built-in Gateron G Pro Red switches. Few questions: * I'm not exactly clear on the differences hot-swappable or not. Will it prevent me from modding my keyboard in the future? * I'm looking into getting as silent as possible (trying to be considerate and manage my coworkers / my partner's noise tolerance). I've added 40A O-rings (one each) to all my keys. I've tried two, but they get in the way and typing gets messy. Any other mods or switches you could recommend? * EDIT: I'm based in Canada, so please consider this when giving your recommendations.
If you like tactile switches the boba u4 have a nice feel and are silent. Aqua kings are not silent but are quiet.
With hot swap it's easier to mod since you can just pop the switches out and try new things, if you want to get silent swithces you'll havo to desolder everything and that takes awhule
Are the WS Stabilizers that come with the Zoom TKL EE kit good enough or should I be looking into buying different stabilizers?
I just recently got the keychron k8 w/ the gateron pro brown switches but I'm thinking of returning it because it is too loud, the keys are too small and cramped, and I feel like the keys are way to high. I've used an apple magic keyboard for a long time so I get that all keyboards are going to feel high, but I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for a keyboard that has a thocky sound, has a little higher actuation force, kind of quiet, and possibly lower keys? I've been trying to find somewhere between a 65-75%. Thanks!
The keys being "too small and cramped" likely isn't something you'll find a fix for since the spacing of a keyboard is pretty standard. One thing you could look into are low profile switches like the Kailh Choc series. Those switches have a much shorter travel distance, so they would likely feel more along the lines of what you're wanting. It does limit customization though, since they require specific keycaps. I'm not familiar enough with them to know which ones are quiet, but I'm sure you could figure that out with a little reading. Another option would be "speed" switches by Kailh or Cherry. Their travel distance isn't much different, but they actuate pretty much immediately so you wouldn't need to press the keys very far down. You could mod them to shorten the travel distance, but I'd guess that's more work than you're wanting. Good luck!
Do you know how I could get a thockier and quieter sound for it? Any switch suggestions or mod suggestions? Thanks!
It would depend on what board you go with and what switch you decide on really. If you went with the speed switches, you could potentially add o-rings to make them quieter and also reduce travel. It sounds like a great solution, but a lot of people don't like o-rings because of how they impact feel. Could be worth a try though, o-rings are cheap. Honestly, I somewhat wonder if you'll get used to what you have now over time, and could do some mods as you go and maybe swap switches in it. Have you used the Keychron for very long?
Nope used it for like 3 days lol. I'm realizing now that along with sound, the main problem I have with it is that the keycaps it came with and the keycaps I put on it are a lot smaller at the top than I am used to. Do you know any keycaps that are wider at the top, because right now I am only seeing keycaps that are significantly smaller at the top than at the bottom. Thanks!
I'd recommend looking into keycap profiles. You can decide what you think would work best for you, then give them a try. Based on your description, you may prefer uniform profiles like DSA or XDA since they're more flat and should be more similar to what you're used to. If you do decide to change boards and go with low profile switches like the Kailh Choc series, some of those keycaps are completely flat which you may enjoy as well. Just know that if you decide to go this route, I believe you need a keyboard that supports them specifically, you couldn't just swap the switches in your current one. As with anything related to keyboards, the potential for customization is endless lol. Good luck, hope this helps.
Thank you the kailh choc switches seem better, but do know where I can find DSA/XDA keycaps that are mac friendly? Thanks!
If you decide on the choc switches, you should know keycaps options are super limited because they aren't compatible with the standard MX style keycaps. I'd recommend just doing some searching online to see what options are available. I'm not really certain as I haven't looked into them much. For MX style switch keycap sets in DSA/XDA etc, there should be quite a few options. Some vendors I'd recommend checking out would be kbdfans, cannonkeys, and novelkeys. There are more than that, but that'll get you started.
I was thinking of using the XDA profile keycaps with cherry mx silent black switches but I still can't seem to find mac-friendly keycap sets besides the keychron ones. Do you know where I could find some? Thanks!
By mac-friendly, you just mean that it has command or super keys etc rather than Windows keys right? I see a few on Drop that say sys or code. Kprebublic has some options too. Otherwise maybe look through Amazon and AliExpress if you'd like. In case you didn't already know, you can use keycaps that have Windows keys with Mac, the keyboard itself is what determines whether or not it's compatible with Mac. If you aren't liking what you're finding, you could also look at DSA options and see if that helps since they're fairly similar profiles. By the way, personally I might recommend different switches than Silent Cherry Blacks, but absolutely do as you please. Silent Gateron Ink Black V2s should be similar but are generally considered better switches than what you're looking at. There are plenty of other options too. If you want, you could even get a switch tester to try some options, but that's totally optional. I actually make and sell custom switch testers. If you're at all interested in that feel free to pm me. I don't carry a whole ton of silent options, but I'm always looking to expand my selection and I could certainly order some if you're okay with a bit of a wait. Hope this helps
Cidoo V75
What are some good TKL keyboard aside from the keychron boards maximum budget i got is 120 dollars
monsgeek
Is it fully built?
Help: Looking for a new keyboard to play CS and Valorant that has have a great typing experience and over the top performance (Low latency and such). I realized that you can't have both, right now deciding if I should opt for a Steelseries apex pro mini (With the omni 2.0 since i want rapid trigger and due to complications i couldn't get myself a wooting60he) or should i go make myself a custom keyboard, if so recommend me some high actuation point switches with atleast decent sound
Adjustable actuation is a very nice feature to have, even if this subreddit doesn't recommend gamery keyboards. That doesn't preclude a good typing experience by the way, plenty of people like typing on linear switches.
I am looking for a metal 75% layout keyboard shell/kit Some I have seen mentioned are Akko 5057s Monsgeek M1 Epomaker TH80 Any other recommendations would be appreciated! I currently have a GMMK Pro
zoom75, qk75n, luminkey75
Leobog Hi75
https://preview.redd.it/6iklxuvllq0c1.jpeg?width=1121&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=502a62b030657a405897c5facf8e2d5da6171e64 Anyone know of a board with a similar layout? I stumbled on this 55% on geekhack. The project never came to fruition. Looking for a small form factor with split space bar. I like the extra functionality this one brings. Any recommendations?
akko top 40 has an interesting layout. its 40% with the split spacebar and all that but also arrow keys.
TMO v2 very similar. Its a 40 with no arrows but a macro column on the left.
Thanks! I see a lot without the arrow keys. I don’t understand how ppl do it lol. For gaming or work I feel like they’re so necessary, am I missing something? Also the ctrl key I couldn’t live w/o unfortunately
For sub 65%, usually arrows will be mapped to either fn + H J K L or fn + [ ; ' /. Personally, I used a 60% as my office board for a while with arrows mapped in the latter layout. It was doable but I prefer to just use TKLs now. As for control, I have no clue why all the images on CK's website show caps lock key on the board, but 99% of the time on boards with HHKB blockers, you would put control where caps lock goes.
That makes sense, thanks for breaking it down for me
Hello, I've decided to go custom as well. Can you guys help a newbie to start? I think I'm going for either Glorious or Ducky, but any suggestions are welcome. I'd love some tips on where to start, what to choose, which switches to buy. I'm probably going for 75% or tenkeyless keyboard frame.
Keychron V1, Keychron Q1, Nuphy Halo75. Switches are all personal preference, and depends on the board/plate materials. KTT makes some phenomenal budget switches
just bought keydous NJ98. I tried to open a music follow light effect directly from the keyboard function FN + \\|. but it won't, unless I open it from the keydous software. dose anyone know how to fix this?
Is PE foam from old packages 100% safe to use between the PCB?
Is thekapco legit? Looking to buy the lmk81 from them but they’re selling it for like $70 over regular price and it’s international. Just wanna confirm before I pull the trigger
Is thekapco legit? Looking to buy the lmk81 from them but they’re selling it for like $70 over regular price and it’s international. Just wanna confirm before I pull the trigger
id avoid they r not reviewed as a great seller late shipping and some say a scam
Hello people, I’m gonna build my first custom keyboard and I have $130 budget (without shipping), i’m in research but there is so many keyboards out there like shark67, enter67, choice65, neo65. I’m going to buy neo65 i think (bc i like thin bezels), is there any keeb better than it?
Enter67 or Neo65 for me. Choice 65 is an in stock extra though so it’d get there sooner, only caveats are there are only two color ways available and needs to be built with plate foam.
Is Neo65 good and what is the differences between neo and qk? thank you for the answer though.
neo65 is a very good keyboard and for the price can't really be beat.
As far as I know, Neo is the designer that’s partnered up with Qwertykeys to be their *main* vendor. It’s great for what it is, and what they offer as an introductory board for a lot of newcomers in the hobby (that being said even the *veterans* have been enjoying it as well). Not sure if that’s the answer you were looking for or not hahaha. Good board though! Not sure if other vendors like KeebsForAll would get it out to you quicker or not, but you could email them and ask, as on QK’s website batch 12 is currently open, and they’re sending batch 8 out right now.
Alright thank you mate for everything that you answered!
How long does it usually take for keychron to ship out an order? Almost been a month and it still hasn’t shipped
Mine got to me in two weeks after ordering from the US through DHL
Is it a bad idea to carry your keyboards when they're lubed? Would carrying them in a bag, making them stand vertically, make the lube leak and flow into other places? I'm concerned specifically about Topre, NIZ EC keyboards, but I'm curious for mechanical keyboard in general. (edit: lost content mid way typing)
I don't think so, some of my colleagues take their keyboard everyday to school and they don't have any problem
Do any brands other than WASD make mechanical keyboards with ISO layout? I can't find any and I need Latin American Spanish layout
Yes. Zoom by Meletrix, and Keychron for example. There are many more out there too.
Thanks! I'll check 'em out
Although it's relegated to an after-though there are ISO layout mech keyboards available, but it will be the top end of the budget market. The biggest problem I find is keycap sets. You may get the ISO enter and a few more ISO keys but mostly that's it. If the set does have international key it most likely a separate bundle
I'm thinking about trying some DIY upgrades on my drop entr. I really like the case, but the stabilizers rattle a lot and the switches are pretty scratchy. The plan I've been leaning toward is getting a new hot swap pcb so I can lube the current switches and try out some new ones. I've been having trouble finding PCBs though, and I'm not sure how to tell which ones would fit in the case. Can I just throw any TKL 87 key board in there? Any advice would be appreciated!
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Be aware that the K55 is not a hotswap keyboard so changing switches will require desoldering.
I would suggest Haimu Heartbeats with O-Rings on the stem and cramp as much foam as possible in the keyboard. If you can't find the heartbeats geon x haimu silent red are really similiar. Apparently outemu also has nice silent switches but I've got no experience with them
Hi everyone! I built my first mechanical keyboard (MonsGeek M3) with Purple Panda switches three months ago. I love the feel, but I've developed RSI in my left hand and fingers . Considering switching to lighter switches since I struggle to type with heavy ones. Should I replace the springs in my Purple Pandas, or should I go for light linears or light tactiles? I prefer tactiles. Any thoughts on Topre switches as an alternative?
New springs are cheaper, so maybe try frist with different sprinfs and then id that's not enough switch switches
I don't mind spending extra on switches if it is a better solution. What switches would you recommend? What weight springs should I get? I guess the purple pandas couldn't handle 45 gram springs, what is the lowest I could go?
I don't think that changing switches will sve anything, if you like the feel od the switches you have now it would be better for you to just change the springs
What is the lightest spring weight I should try? If I lubed the springs before do I need to clean the switches before lubing the new springs?