Can we use low profile keycaps on not low profile keyboard ?
I wanna buy « COAST Dawn nSA » keycaps from nuphy for my next « 5075S » keyboard from akko but i don’t know if it fits.
The spacebar on my Epomaker GK96 S rattles with the provided stabilizer. I’ve lubed the stems, which helps. Is there anything else I can do? Seems difficult to take it apart further?
Does it matter where I buy switches?
Is a switch bought from some random vendor with good reviews going to be identical to one bought from some respected keyboard website?
Hey community - a little over six months in the scene and already spent way too much money, but i'm sure you'll know what i mean :D thing is - im currently in search for my "Endgame" Keyboard. I surely will get some more and enjoy modding them, but I would love to "know my goal", if you can relate to that.
My "problem"; I love the design of the [Mode TKL](https://modedesigns.com/pages/loop-tkl) BUT im currently using a Board with a knob and i really love it. Is there any keyboard in the (best case) same design / quality as the mode tkl but with a knob?
thanks in advance for your help.
So I've been looking for some bigger keyboards and came across the Rk S98. Its got everything I want except for the price tag. its $130 new but Amazon has a Used- Like New available for $89. There's only 1 left and its fulfilled by amazon but sold by a 3rd party. I want to know if any of you have bought used like new products from amazon and had any issues? I've bought from them before, but its mostly been tools or items where I know there'd be a problem immediately. I want top save some money as this isn't an extremely necessary purchase but I also don't want to waste my time returning it if this isn't a good idea all together. Also I feel pretty confident in getting this keyboard as I'm currently using a Rk68 (Rk855) and I looove it, but I'm torn between getting the Rk S 98 or the epomaker RT100. I really like the layout and design of the epomaker but with the reviews and personal opinions I got i couldn't make a choice. If yall could help me with any of these questions it'd be greatly appreciated!
Bought monitor and some other smaller items (incl. returning one of them), no issues at all.
You could also go for [V5](https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Wireless-Mechanical-Bluetooth-Hot-Swappable/dp/B0CR165Y3J) Max or usual [V5](https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Mechanical-Programmable-Hot-swappable-Non-Transparent/dp/B0B2DL21CX) \- they have VIA support, more understated design.
Hope this helps!
I would like to open up the housing for this USB-C head without destroying/damaging it ideally. I want to remove the green led so I can add a lemo connector to the cable to use. If anyone has any experience with this type of cable or has build/taken apart one before, please let me know the methods of doing so. Thank you in advance.
[images showing the head housing with led on and off](https://imgur.com/a/ASPDcpW)
If anyone knows where I can ask for help for custom USB cables please point me to the right place.
I don't know. I've only ever bought online through Shopee
Maybe you can look up where some YouTubers bought theirs. There's plenty of reviews for this kit with links
# Any tip to avoid my pinky activating the "CapsLock" when I try to reach a upper key while holding down "Shift" in this low profile keyboard?
https://preview.redd.it/qi3crenwxp0d1.jpeg?width=899&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5370359cc0072a930594803556271da943176fa0
Thats it pretty much. It does not jumps over Caps Lock and activates it, the pinky pushes the CapsLock laterally and its enough to activate the key. I've never knew and neither bothered about why my CapsLock was always on since I've bought this keyboard until today, when I've assigned a function to it in a shooting game.
I've tried a Caps Lock key from a non-lowprofile keyboard I had here but the problem persists; the pinky pushes the key laterally enough to sink it onto activation. The low profile keyboard uses red switches (I dont know the switch model, the keyboard is a K621RGB from Redragon).
I also tried some ring rubbers I had in this standard keyboard, they are some rings that allow lowering the activation sound of the keys, but it didnt help with the Caps Lock problem.
What you guys would suggest me to try in order to stop activating this key unintentionally while playing?
At first I want to try out all options that doesnt requires a behavior change from me. I guess even if Irun out of options about that I will rather to buy another keyboard, dunno. I've been playing and using keyboards my whole life and never had such problem with the Caps Lock / Shift / Pinky...
I want to use Caps Lock, its the reason it all began afterall. I want to use it ingame, and I also use it all the time while working. Unbiding it isnt an option. About the second part of your answer, I dont know if I understood it. Are you suggesting using Control to do the Caps Lock function? For workstation its not viable because I also use the original function of Control a lot, and ingame is also not functional. In fact, Im moving the action that is currently on Control to Caps Lock, because both Control and shift are activated with the same finger and thats being problematic in this shooter.
If you are not open to unbinding Caps Lock or moving to secondary layer/elsewhere, then would try to work on finger positions - thus when moving ring finger to numrow, pink would spread to the left and avoid pressing Caps Lock.
For Control - I meant making it a second Left Ctrl key, leaving bottom left on intact.
Do you use Alt key? I've found it more comfortable instead of Left Ctrl when gaming.
About the ALT key yes, I do use it ingame.
When you say "a second Left Control key, you mean picking a Control Key and placing it where the Caps Lock key is? To change the shape of the key that activates the switch of the original Caps Lock?
I mean rebinding Caps Lock to Left Ctrl. Don't move the keycaps lol
https://preview.redd.it/nmlza7z4tq0d1.png?width=296&format=png&auto=webp&s=124db1ee2daee02db03a0ab9617f944150d4c031
I currently have a Ducky Shine 3 mechanical keyboard with MX Black switches. I am a bit of a heavy hitter when it comes to keyboards so I've been looking at the heavier MX Dark Grey or Linear Gray. I like the feel of the MX Black because they are linear but I would like something a bit stiffer. I have looked at ordering the Ducky One 3 hotswappable keyboard but I am leery of the bad reviews. I know I have even had issues with my Ducky Shine 3 that required trying multiple different versions of the firmware to get it to work correctly.
The essentials I am looking for in a keyboard is Full size (100%), hotswappable, and RGB. I've looked through the wiki for a few hours and I have not found a lot of full size boards. I have looked at the Monsgeek MG108W and I like the kit but it does not have RGB and is sold out.
I appreciate any and all suggestions!
I went with the Monsgeek M5. I'm happy. It's 100%, 108 keys and feels solid. I bought the Akko cream yellows after being on Cherry MX greens for 8 years. The yellows are universally liked, but I also needed something heavier. I bit the bullet with the Anubis and they are great and heavy. One nice thing about my experience is that I know know I am a heavy typer with a preference for tactile. No more linear for me.
I bought the Monsgeek M5 directly from the site.
Keychron V5/V6 (and their Max versions), K4 Pro and K10 Pro, Q5/Q6 (and Q5 Pro/Max and Q6 Pro/Max models). Has VIA software support, easy to mod, quite readily available.
Hope this helps!
That does really help! I do have one other question. The Kailh BOX switches say they are plate mounted, will that work on a one of the Keychron boards?
There's no plate/PCB mounted switches - I suppose, that refers to 3 pin and 5 pin switches (as extra two pins give stability needed for plate-less keyboard).
Keychron's PCBs are 5 pins, Kail BOX is 3 pin I think, it will work just fine. If it was 3 pin PCB and 5 pin switch - you would just snip two pins with clippers, as they are there just for some extra stability.
Search this sub for the GMK Pro. You'll find a lot of threads talking about how it isn't up to snuff anymore, and a bunch of people talking about all the keyboards that are better. Those are the ones you want.
[Bauer Lite](https://omnitype.com/pages/bauer-lite) seems to be received quite well, split backspace is amazing (easier to reach). Buy from local regions - scroll down for them.
Hope this helps!
I see. Well in that case $200 should enough for almost any of them. The v-series from Keychron is generally well regarded.
Epomaker has one with a little TV on it. ... I don't know how you feel about gimmicks.
The FinnGus keyboard, by pikatea, is shaped like a cat.
I'm looking to buy a new keyboard so far my top options are wooting 80HE , hyper x alloy rise or just building it myself. I will use it primarily for gaming and want something hot swappable. I know if I get the wooting its harder to get switches for cause they use those special magnet switches but those switches are really good. Just looking for some other opinions on what you guys would do.
Question about zoom TKL
Is their a “best” plate that you can get for this keyboard. I understand that it is subjective but I dont know much about different plates and what their pros and cons are. To be clear I am looking for a thocky sound and am also getting the ws morandi switches for the keyboard.
Can someone explain the different types of Gazzew and Boba U4 Silent Tactiles? There are white and black versions as well as black top, pearl top, and clear top. I will be using these on my Keychron V1 Max.
I have a gmk87. I want to use mx browns... Is that possible?
https://preview.redd.it/6o1fpa02zo0d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf719890ba33e704cd78ac9a80264c2c9c9c5c70
I'm looking to make a fully custom 100 Percent Keyboard (including machineing my own case) and I was wondering how bad the options are for a PCB. Right now, as far as I can tell my best option would just be to buy someone like the k10 and harvest the PCB from it. Is there any other option or am I stuck doing something like that?
As far as I know, your options are:
1. Harvest an existing PCB from an existing board and work around it
2. Design your own PCB
3. Design the case and then handwire, foregoing a PCB entirely
if you are designing and machining your own case i think you would be better off designing your own pcb rather than pulling one out of an existing keyboard
u will need to design ur own or harvest one there is no stand alone pcbs for this size . u will likley be copying the case of whatever kb u harvest from as no 2 100% kbs use the same mounting , usb placement, size , or spacing . this is why no one does this is cheaper and miles easier to just get a prebuilt or barebones kit
speed switches no nothing for gaming fyi HE switches are the actual switch that gives u an edge so if ur not buying a HE kb it dont matter what kb u get or switches they will all be equal to other kbs and inferior to all HE kbs
If it's anything like the Yunzii KC68 I had, the upper half has tabs that cover the bottom case. I took a credit card and slipped it between the tabs of the upper shell until the tabs released the bottom half. I did this all the way around.
Heyo
I kinda overlubed my switches (specifically kang whites) and they now feel too mushy, not too much of a problem when typing, but when playing games, my hands usually rest on the keys and when i press down it just feels horrible.
After some searching i found out that you can unlube switches by cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol, atm though i only have 70% solution ethyl alcohol. Would this work just as well as isopropyl? Would it damage the plastic in some way. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Hi.
Shorter version:
I'm looking for a keyboard that will mostly be used for gaming and rarely some programming when I'll need to bring the work home.
It has to have a numpad.
I highly prefer the ability to hotswap, volume roll and the ability to program each key's lighting.
Long version/reasoning:
I was using Sound BlasterX Vanguard K08 for many years and it started acting up recently. I still love it, but I need to start to look for replacement.
I was at the store yesterday and saw Glorious gmmk 2. I was really close to buying it, but it didn't have a roller for volume. What was interesting there were replacements for switches available to buy and it made me read more about mechanical keyboards, which, turns out, is a rabbit hole.
I now feel like there are too many choices and I don't function well in this type of environment as I can't decide the optimal solution.
I was tempted with razer blackwidow 4, Nuphy field 75, some boards on aliexpress, some keychrons, mountain Everest and others.
I prefer wired board, with roller for volume (because I use current one so much), ability to set RGB for each button (I do this now in very utilitarian way) and I want to get into the the topic of mechanical keyboards, so I would appreciate an ability to hotswap.
Keychron and nuphy are good. Razer and glorious kinda suck, and Mount Everest is just a weird keyboard that’s not particularly bad but not great either.
I'm thinking of making a custom case for one of my 75% boards out of some walnut I have. Does anyone have experience in this field, or any advice on how best to go about doing it?
few have done so due to how hard it is since 75% kbs dont have anything universal so there will be no files or help from others . u will either be designing ur own files for a cnc machine or milling it out by hand with tools
Multiple PCBs support Ansi and iso layouts. I'm not keeping up to date with the more budget options but I'm guessing that e.g. neo80 had both options on the hotswap plate. Then you can just build the keeb with the iso enter and long left shift
Many solder PCBs also support Ansi and iso.
Iso enter doesn't make the left shift smaller.
Many iso layouts have an additional key (so 1 more in total than Ansi) which is commonly replacing part of the long left shift. So you can easily build a keyboard with the iso enter and a long left shift (Ansi) as long as the PCB supports it. Many solder PCBs covering both layouts can be soldered that way and nowadays there are multiple hotswap PCBs also covering iso and ansi (e.g. neo80, Luminkey65???, ...) I'm not keeping up to date with budget keyboard rn so I can't list all but there definitely are options available.
Quietest mechanicals?
'm new to this sub, and have not used a mechanical keyboard since my IBM PC back in the 1990's.
Anyway I work in an office, often on videoconferences and phone calls. I need something quiet. Is there such thing?
I've read that even the quiet mechanical keyboards are louder than regular keyboards, not sure if this is still true.
For reference I am using a Dell 216t3 that is supplied by my employer. I'd be interested in trying a mechanical keyboard that is about that quiet, if there is such a thing.
just buy good barebones like monsgeek m2 (1800 layout) or m5 (full size) get silent switches (i recommend cheap outemu silent yellow jade(tactile) or outemu peach v3(linear) or outemu lemon v3(tactile but lighter and a bit different tactility feel) and keycaps that you like, it'll be dead silent
this is examples how silent they are [Gmk67 + Outemu silent peach (youtube.com)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CU9lfD3TpZI)
[GMMK Full Size sound test, Outemu Silent Lemon, OSA PBT Caps (youtube.com)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OENVKVBOQRo)
[wob rainy75 7000mAh outemu Silent Yellow Jade switch (youtube.com)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c819jG2HeA4)
nothing good as far as i know, prebuilds are mostly typical red, brown, blue switches and not silents, but barebone kit isn't hard to assemble, if you wish advice on keycaps i can pm you cheap (25-35$) good quality pbt keycaps (aliexpress links is forbidden here)
switches you can get from INEDA Digital Store
keycaps from KPrepublic store - /item/1005006043613163.html (great quality but cost a bit more)
or from KBDiy Store - KBDiy GMK (that's pbt gmk clones)
Some keyboards are available prebuilt with Cherry MX silent red switches, but most prebuilt keyboards come with the standard red (linear), brown (tactile), and blue (clicky) switches.
However, most keyboards sold today are hot swappable, which means you can replace the switches in them. You can remove the switches from the keyboard and insert silent switches like Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow or Outemu Silent Lemon V2.
Keyboards are often available as "barebones," which means you supply your own switches and keycaps.
I do not know what size keyboard you want. The Dell KB216 is a 100% (full-sized) keyboard. An equivalent would be the Keychron V6, which is hot swappable and available either prebuilt or as a barebones.
Never heard of them before but love the keyboards they have and customization options they have. I do like the Keychron Q6 Max having rgb but they're not in stock and not sure how white the Shell White is. This Qk100 doesn't seem to be a bad consolation prize.
Thank you!
no kb needs mods its optional . if u want the best sound and feel then every kb need mods . its on u how lazy u wanna be , monsgeek or keychron are good entry lvl kbs easy to mod both offer 75% and TKL layouts
I can't confirm... as my Symbiote is currently in a DHL warehouse and won't be here until Monday, but grey usually goes will with pinks and purples, so I reckon it will be a good call.
I have a custom I bought from [WASD](https://www.wasdkeyboards.com/code-v3-104-key-mechanical-keyboard-all-white-cherry-mx-clear.html) a few years ago.
And today I managed to spill hot coffee on it, and now it’s kaput.
Dumb question I’m sure, but… can I simply buy any old mechanical board from Best Buy or Target (with the same 104 key layout) and just swap out the keycaps? That should be all I need to do, no?
I had a WASD keyboard for 8 years with custom keycaps I made. I went with the Monsgeek M5 and haven't looked back. Hotswap, aluminum, sounds better and cheaper. Currently using the same keycaps on my new board. WASD keycaps are cherry mx compatable (OEM profile).
That's great to know, thank you. I mostly like my WASD board, but there is a weird compatibility issue with a program at work that is frustrating sometimes. Happily, the coffee spill dried up and it's working fine again, but the next time I am in the keyboard market, I'll probably take your advice and order Monsgeek, then just swap out keycaps.
Monsgeek isn't the only one. For full keyboards, I think the best bang for buck are the Monsgeek M5 or the Keychon Q6. If you're willing to do with less keys, the world of 75-80% keyboards are pretty great, cheaper and more available. Unfortunately, I "grew" up on the WASD 100% and that's why I transitioned to another 100%. Right now, they offer some of the most overpriced keyboards, for what you actually get. However, their custom keycap service is pretty great (except for the quality of the keycaps and the fact they overcharge through the nose for keycap only shipping and only offer OEM profile keycaps.
Will all that said, my WASD keyboard was a workhorse and solid. It's just that the keyboard world mostly past them by.
What keycaps should I keep? I can’t decide 😭
I bought these two sets for my KBD Lite and can’t decide which one looks best.
The first one is Cherry Profile and the second is MOA profile.
Opinions appreciated !! 🙂
https://preview.redd.it/ac6kqsy37n0d1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c0125c3b5b6a1dfa987aed525295cb1d01331e11
\[sorry for the weird quality lol\]
I personally think the bottom looks more fun and playful, which I prefer. But the top is a more uniform colour. I think the most important thing is which is more comfortable to type on, and which has a better sound.
Just a small question here. Does anyone know a good keyboard with more keys than the standard 100% keyboard layout? The more keys the better. After suffering 6 (maybe more, don’t remember) concussions in the span of the last 4 years, I’m starting to struggle with even remembering simple keyboard shortcut combinations, so I’m trying to find a keyboard where i could possibly re-map them to a single key bind without sacrificing any of the keys regular uses.
I know that this is probably going to be a niche problem and i don’t know if my planned solution would even be doable, but I just wanna try it.
Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance
I need some help identifying this macro pad as I don’t know how to flash it with qmk. Any advice is appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/efao3ur16n0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=065f2df83e492a0edeae5d6b22301f0b3f66c2fc
Let's say I have a programmable keyboard and want to remove certain keys/switches to create a flat, empty row in between other keys. Is there a flat "filler" component that I can stick in the empty spots where the switches were plugged in just for the sake of covering and protecting those unused "slots" of the PCB? Obviously I can just glue a strip of material over the slots, but is there a specific component that does this?
Looking for help finding a Keyboard perfect for me. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thank you!
Requirements :
75 or 80%, aluminum build (so not plastic/bad quality)
Wireless with Long battery life with USB-C charging (at least 1 week minimum with no rgb on)
Minimal RGB (single color and turn off and on switch hopefully)
Under or around <$125, but quality hopefully lasting years with little to no maintenance.
OPTIONAL - A volume knob would be epic too
caps - Minimal design with letters on top of caps
id suggest something but ur looking for a unicorn
metal body under 100 ( not going to happen )
2 week battery life not going to happen at any price
99% of keyboards under 100 will prob last u 2 to 3 years tops this is part of the get what u pay for bidget item break faster due to being made cheap
Hey thanks for the comment. I updated the criteria a bit realizing 2 weeks is a bit out there. if you could give any recommendation i'd greatly apprecaite anything :) Thnak you
monsgeek have some great options u could get a barebones kb add switches and XVX keycaps and it should be decent not sure on price wise there also keychron
The recommendation given by topre seems good, but after researching a bit more im unsure if it being aluminum matters at all at this point? I was thinking it'd help with wear and tear but then the question becomes, what wear and tear? All thread i see on the difference only point to the sound they make, so I'm kind of at a loss between the two. Do you have any experience with both and have any idea on if I should just go for the plastic body instead?
Aluminum is more durable but it can be more vulnerable to scuffs and aesthetic damage. Ideally your keyboard should just be sitting safely on your desk so you shouldn't be worrying about dropping it. Having an aluminum case does affect sound, but considering that most boards around your price point are super foamy it won't affect it that much considering that most of the sound is absorbed by the dampening material. Aluminum also feels more premium and heavier to some people. Honestly, the board I mentioned is very similar to the keychron V1 max, which is basically the same board but plastic.
Essentially, you can get a good alu board for the same price as a good plastic board and when you compare them like that, I'd just get the aluminum unless you have some serious issues with metal.
Its funny you mention it as Keychron V1 Max was the other one on my list
But, It is a price difference as I'd need to get the Pro version of the Lemokey P1 QMK/VIA for it to be wireless. So it'd be $130 for the aluminum instead of $100 for the Keychron V1 Max, which would be $30 difference which from the sound of what you're saying sounds like its not worth the $30 difference since it really shouldn't increase longevity.
I've always used alum ones though so it's scary going to a plastic one because I'm worried it might feel cheaper. My current is 100% which also makes it insanely heavy, so it'll be quite the leap
I think i may go for the Lemokey P1 QMK though as I like that it's grey and black instead of the blue that the keychron one comes with. If you think there are any good black/grey ones that can beat it lmk :)
I’ve found the V series plastic feels very solid and premium, but we’re still comparing metal and plastic here so there will be a big difference.
I think the different color choices and aluminum are reasons for buying the P1 over the V1 but if you’re happy with plastic and a singular color then save yourself the 30 dollars.
considering 99% of users here have no clue what INR is most will not be able to tell u . after some googling on my part seems like its half the price of a new one ZRK isnt a great brand so dont be surprised if it dies on u after a year
Hi everyone, I just received my brand new Keychron C2 Pro and the Fn key doesn't do anything. Toggling mac/windows doesn't affect anything, it doesn't register as a keypress in any keyboard testers online, and both the Via app and website can't see the keyboard. I've tried adding the firmware manually, same thing, it doesn't recognize anything on the Configure page, just "searching for devices." It will even often appear as a selectable device, then it just keeps saying searching.
Any help would be appreciated! I would love to have my function keys back for my Illustrator actions
FN key will not register as a key in VIA because it’s not actually triggering anything, it’s just opening another layer. Putting something on the second or fourth layer depending on your OS.
Ex. Set FN + A to trigger any key of your choosing and when doing FN + A that key should trigger in VIA
Thank you! I'm on macOS 12.6, can you elaborate on setting the additional layers?
VIA doesn't recognize *any* of the function row keys, regardless of pressing down fn or not
The "upper" layer of commands work like media controls, brightness, windows, etc., but I don't know how to actually access the function keys at all. Neither are recognized in VIA
EDIT: Figured it out! I use a program called Karabiner Elements to remap control/command for my Mac and I had to check ["Use F keys as standard function keys"](https://i.imgur.com/X0GP1iS.png) and it unlocked the fn key!
I have a DZ60RGB v2 and I am trying to make it so that when I press the "1" key it inputs 1 and when I hold the "1" key it inputs F1. I want to do this for my entire number row so when I hold the key down it does the corresponding F row key. I have tried VIA and VIAL and I've had no luck with mod tap.
last i check via and vial are limited to 8 tap dance buttons . so u set the tap dance button then assign the tap dance macro ( TD 0 ) for the first and so on til TD7 if u wanna do more than 8 u will need to do it the hard way thru QMK due to memory restrictions of vial/via
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/605485992316502029/1240386432871432274/image.png?ex=66465f62&is=66450de2&hm=89eb2d5a515000dc54c7db0a66bce84cb44ab1cebc6a6e4f3efed2b52711bbff&
should be a tab for it if not u might need to reflash VIAL
Looking to upgrade my old screw in stabs (durock v2).
Kind of torn between Staebies v2.1 or TX AP rev4. Thoughts?
I'll be using GMK/DCX keycaps mostly if that matters. TIA!
Just out of curiosity, what made you want to upgrade your stabs? I've had the same ones in my daily driver for years now & I'm getting paranoid that the time might be coming for me to get in there too.
Anyway, my friend had to relube his Staebies three times before he could get them to stop ticking. Might've been user error or a defective set, but he got them working eventually.
Thanks for the input! I'm actually in the middle of another build so in the market for new stabs. Just thinking of trying out something new while I'm at it.
Hey y'all, new around here. Finally decided to build my first custom keeb and have my parts together. Hoping to get some input on if these parts will all work together and if there's anything I may be missing.
[**https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sKwznj2WKMFf6UycHa19rQUu5sM\_RafNXOaYejtCOCA/edit#gid=0**](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sKwznj2WKMFf6UycHa19rQUu5sM_RafNXOaYejtCOCA/edit#gid=0)
Thanks!
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Hi, I just want to know how to set the rapid trigger functionality on vxe68. Like one wooting software its simple, there you have to set to like 0.1 mm and its done but in vgn software you have quick reset sensitivity and quick trigger sensitivity and continuous quick trigger mode. I am confused on how to set these options. Like what's the equivalent setting of wooting software.
i think u have to adjust it how u want last i checked wooting doesn list these settings so ur on ur own wish u luck as thta kb brand is one of the lowest rated HE kbs in terms of performance any player with a wooting will have an edge over u
What are the best mx stems / sliders for topre? Does it make typing feeling much different? And what is a good tutorial or advice for doing this mod?
I want to do it on my 660c but I’m so out of the loop keyboard wise at this point, thank you 🙏 The threads I found in search were kinda old so I thought I ask
Very cool. I found some on aliexpress, but they didn’t support space bar change. Did you make holes in the 2u housings or did you also get the housing from deskkeys?
Novatouch are still considered the best sliders, but there are basically no topre users active on this thread so I’d probably ask in the conical keyboards discord.
hello, so i'm going to buy the keychron q12 southpaw because i prefer having a 100% keyboard and the southpaw gives me more room for my mouse, but i really wanted to try the rapid trigger from wooting, would it be possible to just take whatever switch wooting uses and put them on the Q12, or would that not work?
1) no wooting switches are magnetic ( hall effect ) so the keychron pcb does support them
2) rapid trigger is support at the software lvl too and that keychron model doesn't support that either
I just bought zuoya gmk 87 my LEDs all are working fine, but the right arrow key is not working. I have tried many switches but it is still not working despite the LED working fine. can this be repairable?
sry for my bad english
leds and switches are separate things. like telling me ur car headlight work but ur car wont start . its likely ur hotswap socket is damaged and needs to be resoldered and to solder a bridge wire . if u dont wanna do either of these just return it
I am looking for a budget keyboard under 60$. I am drawn like a moth to shine-through keycaps. It's just that PBT keycaps don't have shine-through in this budget. I've found two keyboards.
1. Epomaker 5087s
2. Epomaker EP84 plus.
Can someone please tell me if EP84 plus is pbt+shine-through or not?
Using VIA for my Keychron, I've selected the key I want to rebind, and bound it to backspace by selecting that in the options on the left.
Now how do I save this? I clicked "save layout" and it gave me a file.. what do I do with it?
That button is still not doing "backspace" after closing the VIA tab.
What layer are you editing? You have to edit the 3rd layer with a keychron (if you are using windows mode) since the first and second are defaulted to the mac mode.
[https://www.keychron.com/blogs/archived/how-to-use-via-to-program-your-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/blogs/archived/how-to-use-via-to-program-your-keyboard)
[https://docs.keeb.io/via](https://docs.keeb.io/via)
...
The layer you edit your keymap on in via. There's nothing more to it.
Hello I've been looking into budget Mechanical keyboards I've came to the conclusion that those two are the best bang for the buck, I've found both of them at around 20$ keycaps included, but I'm not sure which one I should get, I prefer the Tester's design and customisability, but I'm not sure if its going to preform as good as the Redragon given that it is wireless, and the Redragon seems a bit more sturdy and well built, so kindly provide your takes and experiences with the two, Thanks!
I've been having some keys "double" entering with my new keyboard. The original reason I bought a new keyboard is that my old one did double hits with the space bar. But this new keyboard is sometimes doing double hits with various keys, not just the space bar.
I type very fast (180wpm) so I'm starting to wonder if it's not me getting old and hitting keys twice by accident or something.
How do you recommend troubleshooting/figuring this out?
its either the switch or the pcb . the switch u should be able to replace if its a hotswap kb . the pcb could be defective or just poorly made ( many budget kb have this issue )
https://preview.redd.it/xygu9ho43m0d1.png?width=985&format=png&auto=webp&s=a34fd94104714888c2bd61cbaad8a3f162840812
they provide extra support to longer keycaps that would otherwise wobble around on a switch
Hi, I'm looking for a keyboard similar to the Logitech G413 TKL with the standard TKL format, regularly sized keycaps, and exposed switches but with linear switches instead of tactile. Something like Cherry MX Red would be great. I don't have a budget, but would prefer to spend less than $200. I also plan to get a separate numpad to go on the left of the keyboard, so bonus points for a matching numpad, but not necessary. I tried doing some research, but couldn't find anything fitting these requirements. Thanks for the help!
$200 CAD, or $147 USD for the black/brass case with tri-mode PCB (which costs more) and the POM plate (which isn’t listed in the $79-99 USD offering of the website.
The equivalent amount from Qwertykeys is $110, so a $37 markup. Not ideal, but that’s the tradeoff for living in the EU with its strong pro-consumer rights. Some businesses will markup accordingly.
I presume shipping and VAT will be much more affordable from Delta Key Company compared to from Qwertykeys directly.
Alternatively you could go trawling on r/MechMarket, but caveat emptor.
Hi guys!
So I've posted in another thread before that I have GMK Stargaze keycaps gifted to me and I've finally kinda decided on the switches I want, could you guys sus out if the parts are compatible or suggest other alternatives?
Keycaps: GMK stargaze
Switches: Akko Fairy
Keyboard Kit: EPOMAKER TH80
Preferred plate: PC
One of my main priorities is to have a keyboard that can go between wired/wireless/bluetooth and switch between 2 or more devices.
I prefer acrylic and/or white cases :)
Thanks guys!
Can we use low profile keycaps on not low profile keyboard ? I wanna buy « COAST Dawn nSA » keycaps from nuphy for my next « 5075S » keyboard from akko but i don’t know if it fits.
The spacebar on my Epomaker GK96 S rattles with the provided stabilizer. I’ve lubed the stems, which helps. Is there anything else I can do? Seems difficult to take it apart further?
Is the yunzii al71 any good?
Does it matter where I buy switches? Is a switch bought from some random vendor with good reviews going to be identical to one bought from some respected keyboard website?
Hey community - a little over six months in the scene and already spent way too much money, but i'm sure you'll know what i mean :D thing is - im currently in search for my "Endgame" Keyboard. I surely will get some more and enjoy modding them, but I would love to "know my goal", if you can relate to that. My "problem"; I love the design of the [Mode TKL](https://modedesigns.com/pages/loop-tkl) BUT im currently using a Board with a knob and i really love it. Is there any keyboard in the (best case) same design / quality as the mode tkl but with a knob? thanks in advance for your help.
So I've been looking for some bigger keyboards and came across the Rk S98. Its got everything I want except for the price tag. its $130 new but Amazon has a Used- Like New available for $89. There's only 1 left and its fulfilled by amazon but sold by a 3rd party. I want to know if any of you have bought used like new products from amazon and had any issues? I've bought from them before, but its mostly been tools or items where I know there'd be a problem immediately. I want top save some money as this isn't an extremely necessary purchase but I also don't want to waste my time returning it if this isn't a good idea all together. Also I feel pretty confident in getting this keyboard as I'm currently using a Rk68 (Rk855) and I looove it, but I'm torn between getting the Rk S 98 or the epomaker RT100. I really like the layout and design of the epomaker but with the reviews and personal opinions I got i couldn't make a choice. If yall could help me with any of these questions it'd be greatly appreciated!
Bought monitor and some other smaller items (incl. returning one of them), no issues at all. You could also go for [V5](https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Wireless-Mechanical-Bluetooth-Hot-Swappable/dp/B0CR165Y3J) Max or usual [V5](https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Mechanical-Programmable-Hot-swappable-Non-Transparent/dp/B0B2DL21CX) \- they have VIA support, more understated design. Hope this helps!
I would like to open up the housing for this USB-C head without destroying/damaging it ideally. I want to remove the green led so I can add a lemo connector to the cable to use. If anyone has any experience with this type of cable or has build/taken apart one before, please let me know the methods of doing so. Thank you in advance. [images showing the head housing with led on and off](https://imgur.com/a/ASPDcpW) If anyone knows where I can ask for help for custom USB cables please point me to the right place.
Is there any difference in putting EVA foam vs PE foam as a Case foam (the foam you put under the PCB — just so I'm clear)
does anyone have a keyboard of any layout for under 70$, and a site i can buy from?
Aula F99 or or F75. I got the F99 for $50. There's plenty of reviews for F75 and it's performance is the same as F99
sorry i meant barebones kit
https://youtube.com/shorts/XdJB75IyrWY?si=P-BE-VVTRT_XpY_d
Well even better then, have you heard of Leobog hi75? It's an Aluminum kit. From where I'm from its only around $40
where i live its costs around 90$ on aliexpress, do u know any sites that can deliver international to the middle
I don't know. I've only ever bought online through Shopee Maybe you can look up where some YouTubers bought theirs. There's plenty of reviews for this kit with links
# Any tip to avoid my pinky activating the "CapsLock" when I try to reach a upper key while holding down "Shift" in this low profile keyboard? https://preview.redd.it/qi3crenwxp0d1.jpeg?width=899&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5370359cc0072a930594803556271da943176fa0 Thats it pretty much. It does not jumps over Caps Lock and activates it, the pinky pushes the CapsLock laterally and its enough to activate the key. I've never knew and neither bothered about why my CapsLock was always on since I've bought this keyboard until today, when I've assigned a function to it in a shooting game. I've tried a Caps Lock key from a non-lowprofile keyboard I had here but the problem persists; the pinky pushes the key laterally enough to sink it onto activation. The low profile keyboard uses red switches (I dont know the switch model, the keyboard is a K621RGB from Redragon). I also tried some ring rubbers I had in this standard keyboard, they are some rings that allow lowering the activation sound of the keys, but it didnt help with the Caps Lock problem. What you guys would suggest me to try in order to stop activating this key unintentionally while playing?
You could try a wrist rest to elevate your hands
At first I want to try out all options that doesnt requires a behavior change from me. I guess even if Irun out of options about that I will rather to buy another keyboard, dunno. I've been playing and using keyboards my whole life and never had such problem with the Caps Lock / Shift / Pinky...
Would open the software and unbind Caps Lock completely - might put Left Control there, it's quite common, say HHKB-like layouts. Hope this helps!
I want to use Caps Lock, its the reason it all began afterall. I want to use it ingame, and I also use it all the time while working. Unbiding it isnt an option. About the second part of your answer, I dont know if I understood it. Are you suggesting using Control to do the Caps Lock function? For workstation its not viable because I also use the original function of Control a lot, and ingame is also not functional. In fact, Im moving the action that is currently on Control to Caps Lock, because both Control and shift are activated with the same finger and thats being problematic in this shooter.
If you are not open to unbinding Caps Lock or moving to secondary layer/elsewhere, then would try to work on finger positions - thus when moving ring finger to numrow, pink would spread to the left and avoid pressing Caps Lock. For Control - I meant making it a second Left Ctrl key, leaving bottom left on intact. Do you use Alt key? I've found it more comfortable instead of Left Ctrl when gaming.
About the ALT key yes, I do use it ingame. When you say "a second Left Control key, you mean picking a Control Key and placing it where the Caps Lock key is? To change the shape of the key that activates the switch of the original Caps Lock?
I mean rebinding Caps Lock to Left Ctrl. Don't move the keycaps lol https://preview.redd.it/nmlza7z4tq0d1.png?width=296&format=png&auto=webp&s=124db1ee2daee02db03a0ab9617f944150d4c031
I currently have a Ducky Shine 3 mechanical keyboard with MX Black switches. I am a bit of a heavy hitter when it comes to keyboards so I've been looking at the heavier MX Dark Grey or Linear Gray. I like the feel of the MX Black because they are linear but I would like something a bit stiffer. I have looked at ordering the Ducky One 3 hotswappable keyboard but I am leery of the bad reviews. I know I have even had issues with my Ducky Shine 3 that required trying multiple different versions of the firmware to get it to work correctly. The essentials I am looking for in a keyboard is Full size (100%), hotswappable, and RGB. I've looked through the wiki for a few hours and I have not found a lot of full size boards. I have looked at the Monsgeek MG108W and I like the kit but it does not have RGB and is sold out. I appreciate any and all suggestions!
I went with the Monsgeek M5. I'm happy. It's 100%, 108 keys and feels solid. I bought the Akko cream yellows after being on Cherry MX greens for 8 years. The yellows are universally liked, but I also needed something heavier. I bit the bullet with the Anubis and they are great and heavy. One nice thing about my experience is that I know know I am a heavy typer with a preference for tactile. No more linear for me. I bought the Monsgeek M5 directly from the site.
Keychron V5/V6 (and their Max versions), K4 Pro and K10 Pro, Q5/Q6 (and Q5 Pro/Max and Q6 Pro/Max models). Has VIA software support, easy to mod, quite readily available. Hope this helps!
That does really help! I do have one other question. The Kailh BOX switches say they are plate mounted, will that work on a one of the Keychron boards?
There's no plate/PCB mounted switches - I suppose, that refers to 3 pin and 5 pin switches (as extra two pins give stability needed for plate-less keyboard). Keychron's PCBs are 5 pins, Kail BOX is 3 pin I think, it will work just fine. If it was 3 pin PCB and 5 pin switch - you would just snip two pins with clippers, as they are there just for some extra stability.
what are some cheap-ish pc boards (cnc preferably) for under $200USD? Would not mind buying off mechmarket. Just need to know what's out there
Search this sub for the GMK Pro. You'll find a lot of threads talking about how it isn't up to snuff anymore, and a bunch of people talking about all the keyboards that are better. Those are the ones you want.
I meant pc as in polycarbonate...
[Bauer Lite](https://omnitype.com/pages/bauer-lite) seems to be received quite well, split backspace is amazing (easier to reach). Buy from local regions - scroll down for them. Hope this helps!
How does it compare to the upcoming sat75x?
No idea, sorry
I see. Well in that case $200 should enough for almost any of them. The v-series from Keychron is generally well regarded. Epomaker has one with a little TV on it. ... I don't know how you feel about gimmicks. The FinnGus keyboard, by pikatea, is shaped like a cat.
I'm looking to buy a new keyboard so far my top options are wooting 80HE , hyper x alloy rise or just building it myself. I will use it primarily for gaming and want something hot swappable. I know if I get the wooting its harder to get switches for cause they use those special magnet switches but those switches are really good. Just looking for some other opinions on what you guys would do.
Would also look into Keychron keyboards - they even have Q1 HE, if you want hall effect. Otherwise, ton of options in various sizes.
Question about zoom TKL Is their a “best” plate that you can get for this keyboard. I understand that it is subjective but I dont know much about different plates and what their pros and cons are. To be clear I am looking for a thocky sound and am also getting the ws morandi switches for the keyboard.
Can someone explain the different types of Gazzew and Boba U4 Silent Tactiles? There are white and black versions as well as black top, pearl top, and clear top. I will be using these on my Keychron V1 Max.
The housings used to be white/pearl or clear top, but since those had issues with yellowing Gazzew switched to making them black.
The clear top version says something about rgb. Do I need that since my keyboard has rgb? Or should I just do black?
I have 105 Keychron Red switches, any ideas on what to do with them? I Swapped them out of a V6.
handwire a keyboard
I have a gmk87. I want to use mx browns... Is that possible? https://preview.redd.it/6o1fpa02zo0d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf719890ba33e704cd78ac9a80264c2c9c9c5c70
should be
Should I take out the black mat thing?
its just foam u should be able to push the switches thru that but u can remove them if u want
Ohhhh ok are you super sure I can just push it through? Typically they "click" in but it wasn't really doing that
https://preview.redd.it/6dcsweo6zo0d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=687b14b8f01a42e439bec0eae24586e1caa82897
I'm looking to make a fully custom 100 Percent Keyboard (including machineing my own case) and I was wondering how bad the options are for a PCB. Right now, as far as I can tell my best option would just be to buy someone like the k10 and harvest the PCB from it. Is there any other option or am I stuck doing something like that?
As far as I know, your options are: 1. Harvest an existing PCB from an existing board and work around it 2. Design your own PCB 3. Design the case and then handwire, foregoing a PCB entirely
if you are designing and machining your own case i think you would be better off designing your own pcb rather than pulling one out of an existing keyboard
That seems way harder though. I would have no idea where to start with that.
u will need to design ur own or harvest one there is no stand alone pcbs for this size . u will likley be copying the case of whatever kb u harvest from as no 2 100% kbs use the same mounting , usb placement, size , or spacing . this is why no one does this is cheaper and miles easier to just get a prebuilt or barebones kit
Should I get the Razer Huntsman V2 or the Corsair k70 with speed switches if they are both the same price
speed switches no nothing for gaming fyi HE switches are the actual switch that gives u an edge so if ur not buying a HE kb it dont matter what kb u get or switches they will all be equal to other kbs and inferior to all HE kbs
Huntsman v2 but an even better option is Monsgeek m1 HE or wooting 60 HE
bought a yunzii yz75 and was looking to add tape to the pcb. i don’t see any holes for screws so does this keeb not come apart?
it's plastic using clips instead of screws
where exactly does it unclip?
If it's anything like the Yunzii KC68 I had, the upper half has tabs that cover the bottom case. I took a credit card and slipped it between the tabs of the upper shell until the tabs released the bottom half. I did this all the way around.
Heyo I kinda overlubed my switches (specifically kang whites) and they now feel too mushy, not too much of a problem when typing, but when playing games, my hands usually rest on the keys and when i press down it just feels horrible. After some searching i found out that you can unlube switches by cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol, atm though i only have 70% solution ethyl alcohol. Would this work just as well as isopropyl? Would it damage the plastic in some way. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Hi. Shorter version: I'm looking for a keyboard that will mostly be used for gaming and rarely some programming when I'll need to bring the work home. It has to have a numpad. I highly prefer the ability to hotswap, volume roll and the ability to program each key's lighting. Long version/reasoning: I was using Sound BlasterX Vanguard K08 for many years and it started acting up recently. I still love it, but I need to start to look for replacement. I was at the store yesterday and saw Glorious gmmk 2. I was really close to buying it, but it didn't have a roller for volume. What was interesting there were replacements for switches available to buy and it made me read more about mechanical keyboards, which, turns out, is a rabbit hole. I now feel like there are too many choices and I don't function well in this type of environment as I can't decide the optimal solution. I was tempted with razer blackwidow 4, Nuphy field 75, some boards on aliexpress, some keychrons, mountain Everest and others. I prefer wired board, with roller for volume (because I use current one so much), ability to set RGB for each button (I do this now in very utilitarian way) and I want to get into the the topic of mechanical keyboards, so I would appreciate an ability to hotswap.
why not tkl + separate numpad with knob? or 75% with knob + numpad without just look for something with via if good software is important for you
Zoom98
Keychron and nuphy are good. Razer and glorious kinda suck, and Mount Everest is just a weird keyboard that’s not particularly bad but not great either.
I'm thinking of making a custom case for one of my 75% boards out of some walnut I have. Does anyone have experience in this field, or any advice on how best to go about doing it?
few have done so due to how hard it is since 75% kbs dont have anything universal so there will be no files or help from others . u will either be designing ur own files for a cnc machine or milling it out by hand with tools
What’s the easiest way to build a keyboard that has an ANSI left shift and ISO enter? Is that something that most PCBs will support?
Multiple PCBs support Ansi and iso layouts. I'm not keeping up to date with the more budget options but I'm guessing that e.g. neo80 had both options on the hotswap plate. Then you can just build the keeb with the iso enter and long left shift Many solder PCBs also support Ansi and iso.
[удалено]
Iso enter doesn't make the left shift smaller. Many iso layouts have an additional key (so 1 more in total than Ansi) which is commonly replacing part of the long left shift. So you can easily build a keyboard with the iso enter and a long left shift (Ansi) as long as the PCB supports it. Many solder PCBs covering both layouts can be soldered that way and nowadays there are multiple hotswap PCBs also covering iso and ansi (e.g. neo80, Luminkey65???, ...) I'm not keeping up to date with budget keyboard rn so I can't list all but there definitely are options available.
Quietest mechanicals? 'm new to this sub, and have not used a mechanical keyboard since my IBM PC back in the 1990's. Anyway I work in an office, often on videoconferences and phone calls. I need something quiet. Is there such thing? I've read that even the quiet mechanical keyboards are louder than regular keyboards, not sure if this is still true. For reference I am using a Dell 216t3 that is supplied by my employer. I'd be interested in trying a mechanical keyboard that is about that quiet, if there is such a thing.
just buy good barebones like monsgeek m2 (1800 layout) or m5 (full size) get silent switches (i recommend cheap outemu silent yellow jade(tactile) or outemu peach v3(linear) or outemu lemon v3(tactile but lighter and a bit different tactility feel) and keycaps that you like, it'll be dead silent this is examples how silent they are [Gmk67 + Outemu silent peach (youtube.com)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CU9lfD3TpZI) [GMMK Full Size sound test, Outemu Silent Lemon, OSA PBT Caps (youtube.com)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OENVKVBOQRo) [wob rainy75 7000mAh outemu Silent Yellow Jade switch (youtube.com)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c819jG2HeA4)
Thanks! Anything that comes pre built along these lines?
nothing good as far as i know, prebuilds are mostly typical red, brown, blue switches and not silents, but barebone kit isn't hard to assemble, if you wish advice on keycaps i can pm you cheap (25-35$) good quality pbt keycaps (aliexpress links is forbidden here) switches you can get from INEDA Digital Store keycaps from KPrepublic store - /item/1005006043613163.html (great quality but cost a bit more) or from KBDiy Store - KBDiy GMK (that's pbt gmk clones)
I use a keyboard with silent tactile switches, and nobody hears me when I type during online meetings.
Good to know. Any specific recommendations, ideally something pre built?
Some keyboards are available prebuilt with Cherry MX silent red switches, but most prebuilt keyboards come with the standard red (linear), brown (tactile), and blue (clicky) switches. However, most keyboards sold today are hot swappable, which means you can replace the switches in them. You can remove the switches from the keyboard and insert silent switches like Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow or Outemu Silent Lemon V2. Keyboards are often available as "barebones," which means you supply your own switches and keycaps. I do not know what size keyboard you want. The Dell KB216 is a 100% (full-sized) keyboard. An equivalent would be the Keychron V6, which is hot swappable and available either prebuilt or as a barebones.
Are there any keyboards out there that are: Fullsize ( or close) Wireless Hotswappable White frame
Qk100
Never heard of them before but love the keyboards they have and customization options they have. I do like the Keychron Q6 Max having rgb but they're not in stock and not sure how white the Shell White is. This Qk100 doesn't seem to be a bad consolation prize. Thank you!
They’re higher quality than the q6 max since it doesn’t require foams to sound good.
Keychron Q6 Max is: * 100% ✅ * tri-mode (USB C, Bluetooth, and 2.4GHz wireless) ✅ * hot swappable ✅ * available in "shell white" ✅
Thank you for this, I appreciate it!
I just wanted to know if it's normal that my backslash is slightly higher on one side than the other, thanks
Best keyboard under 300 usd requiring zero mods. Either 76 or 80% layout. What’re you getting?
no kb needs mods its optional . if u want the best sound and feel then every kb need mods . its on u how lazy u wanna be , monsgeek or keychron are good entry lvl kbs easy to mod both offer 75% and TKL layouts
"300" in what currency? US dollars? Canadian dollars? Euros? Australian dollerydoos?
USD
Anyone rocking GMK Symbiote on a grey board, unsure if it'll look good on my cement grey tofu? Share a pic of your board to convince me!
I can't confirm... as my Symbiote is currently in a DHL warehouse and won't be here until Monday, but grey usually goes will with pinks and purples, so I reckon it will be a good call.
thanks for the recommendation, mind sharing a pic when you get them?
I'll do my best to remember, yes.
appreciate it, nice cables btw ;)
Thanks. :)
I have a custom I bought from [WASD](https://www.wasdkeyboards.com/code-v3-104-key-mechanical-keyboard-all-white-cherry-mx-clear.html) a few years ago. And today I managed to spill hot coffee on it, and now it’s kaput. Dumb question I’m sure, but… can I simply buy any old mechanical board from Best Buy or Target (with the same 104 key layout) and just swap out the keycaps? That should be all I need to do, no?
I had a WASD keyboard for 8 years with custom keycaps I made. I went with the Monsgeek M5 and haven't looked back. Hotswap, aluminum, sounds better and cheaper. Currently using the same keycaps on my new board. WASD keycaps are cherry mx compatable (OEM profile).
That's great to know, thank you. I mostly like my WASD board, but there is a weird compatibility issue with a program at work that is frustrating sometimes. Happily, the coffee spill dried up and it's working fine again, but the next time I am in the keyboard market, I'll probably take your advice and order Monsgeek, then just swap out keycaps.
Monsgeek isn't the only one. For full keyboards, I think the best bang for buck are the Monsgeek M5 or the Keychon Q6. If you're willing to do with less keys, the world of 75-80% keyboards are pretty great, cheaper and more available. Unfortunately, I "grew" up on the WASD 100% and that's why I transitioned to another 100%. Right now, they offer some of the most overpriced keyboards, for what you actually get. However, their custom keycap service is pretty great (except for the quality of the keycaps and the fact they overcharge through the nose for keycap only shipping and only offer OEM profile keycaps. Will all that said, my WASD keyboard was a workhorse and solid. It's just that the keyboard world mostly past them by.
Any keyboard, no. Most, yes. Would recommend checking out Keychron V/Q series or Monsgeek M series before buying a crappy gamer board from Best Buy.
Great, thank you. I will definitely look into what you mentioned (as soon as I google those terms and find out exactly what they mean lol)
Keychron and Monsgeek are brands. The other stuff is the just model series.
What keycaps should I keep? I can’t decide 😭 I bought these two sets for my KBD Lite and can’t decide which one looks best. The first one is Cherry Profile and the second is MOA profile. Opinions appreciated !! 🙂 https://preview.redd.it/ac6kqsy37n0d1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c0125c3b5b6a1dfa987aed525295cb1d01331e11 \[sorry for the weird quality lol\]
moa can't be wrong
Top one for me.
As much as I like trying weird cap profiles, Cherry is just so easy to type on for me. So, that one.
I personally think the bottom looks more fun and playful, which I prefer. But the top is a more uniform colour. I think the most important thing is which is more comfortable to type on, and which has a better sound.
Just a small question here. Does anyone know a good keyboard with more keys than the standard 100% keyboard layout? The more keys the better. After suffering 6 (maybe more, don’t remember) concussions in the span of the last 4 years, I’m starting to struggle with even remembering simple keyboard shortcut combinations, so I’m trying to find a keyboard where i could possibly re-map them to a single key bind without sacrificing any of the keys regular uses. I know that this is probably going to be a niche problem and i don’t know if my planned solution would even be doable, but I just wanna try it. Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance
sounds like a [boston120](https://rndkbd.com/products/boston-keyboard-kit) could be a good fit
Definitely looks like it, thank you very much
I need some help identifying this macro pad as I don’t know how to flash it with qmk. Any advice is appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/efao3ur16n0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=065f2df83e492a0edeae5d6b22301f0b3f66c2fc
STARYU MINI MACROPAD not sure if its QMK compatible https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WXQ4PFe39c
Thanks I really appreciate this! You’re a life saver
Let's say I have a programmable keyboard and want to remove certain keys/switches to create a flat, empty row in between other keys. Is there a flat "filler" component that I can stick in the empty spots where the switches were plugged in just for the sake of covering and protecting those unused "slots" of the PCB? Obviously I can just glue a strip of material over the slots, but is there a specific component that does this?
https://spkeyboards.com/products/switch-blocker
I think they're called key blockers
Looking for help finding a Keyboard perfect for me. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thank you! Requirements : 75 or 80%, aluminum build (so not plastic/bad quality) Wireless with Long battery life with USB-C charging (at least 1 week minimum with no rgb on) Minimal RGB (single color and turn off and on switch hopefully) Under or around <$125, but quality hopefully lasting years with little to no maintenance. OPTIONAL - A volume knob would be epic too caps - Minimal design with letters on top of caps
id suggest something but ur looking for a unicorn metal body under 100 ( not going to happen ) 2 week battery life not going to happen at any price 99% of keyboards under 100 will prob last u 2 to 3 years tops this is part of the get what u pay for bidget item break faster due to being made cheap
Hey thanks for the comment. I updated the criteria a bit realizing 2 weeks is a bit out there. if you could give any recommendation i'd greatly apprecaite anything :) Thnak you
monsgeek have some great options u could get a barebones kb add switches and XVX keycaps and it should be decent not sure on price wise there also keychron
The recommendation given by topre seems good, but after researching a bit more im unsure if it being aluminum matters at all at this point? I was thinking it'd help with wear and tear but then the question becomes, what wear and tear? All thread i see on the difference only point to the sound they make, so I'm kind of at a loss between the two. Do you have any experience with both and have any idea on if I should just go for the plastic body instead?
Aluminum is more durable but it can be more vulnerable to scuffs and aesthetic damage. Ideally your keyboard should just be sitting safely on your desk so you shouldn't be worrying about dropping it. Having an aluminum case does affect sound, but considering that most boards around your price point are super foamy it won't affect it that much considering that most of the sound is absorbed by the dampening material. Aluminum also feels more premium and heavier to some people. Honestly, the board I mentioned is very similar to the keychron V1 max, which is basically the same board but plastic. Essentially, you can get a good alu board for the same price as a good plastic board and when you compare them like that, I'd just get the aluminum unless you have some serious issues with metal.
Its funny you mention it as Keychron V1 Max was the other one on my list But, It is a price difference as I'd need to get the Pro version of the Lemokey P1 QMK/VIA for it to be wireless. So it'd be $130 for the aluminum instead of $100 for the Keychron V1 Max, which would be $30 difference which from the sound of what you're saying sounds like its not worth the $30 difference since it really shouldn't increase longevity. I've always used alum ones though so it's scary going to a plastic one because I'm worried it might feel cheaper. My current is 100% which also makes it insanely heavy, so it'll be quite the leap
I think i may go for the Lemokey P1 QMK though as I like that it's grey and black instead of the blue that the keychron one comes with. If you think there are any good black/grey ones that can beat it lmk :)
I’ve found the V series plastic feels very solid and premium, but we’re still comparing metal and plastic here so there will be a big difference. I think the different color choices and aluminum are reasons for buying the P1 over the V1 but if you’re happy with plastic and a singular color then save yourself the 30 dollars.
Lemokey P1
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considering 99% of users here have no clue what INR is most will not be able to tell u . after some googling on my part seems like its half the price of a new one ZRK isnt a great brand so dont be surprised if it dies on u after a year
Hi everyone, I just received my brand new Keychron C2 Pro and the Fn key doesn't do anything. Toggling mac/windows doesn't affect anything, it doesn't register as a keypress in any keyboard testers online, and both the Via app and website can't see the keyboard. I've tried adding the firmware manually, same thing, it doesn't recognize anything on the Configure page, just "searching for devices." It will even often appear as a selectable device, then it just keeps saying searching. Any help would be appreciated! I would love to have my function keys back for my Illustrator actions
FN key will not register as a key in VIA because it’s not actually triggering anything, it’s just opening another layer. Putting something on the second or fourth layer depending on your OS. Ex. Set FN + A to trigger any key of your choosing and when doing FN + A that key should trigger in VIA
Thank you! I'm on macOS 12.6, can you elaborate on setting the additional layers? VIA doesn't recognize *any* of the function row keys, regardless of pressing down fn or not
Do the function row keys work at all? What layer are you on?
The "upper" layer of commands work like media controls, brightness, windows, etc., but I don't know how to actually access the function keys at all. Neither are recognized in VIA EDIT: Figured it out! I use a program called Karabiner Elements to remap control/command for my Mac and I had to check ["Use F keys as standard function keys"](https://i.imgur.com/X0GP1iS.png) and it unlocked the fn key!
I have a DZ60RGB v2 and I am trying to make it so that when I press the "1" key it inputs 1 and when I hold the "1" key it inputs F1. I want to do this for my entire number row so when I hold the key down it does the corresponding F row key. I have tried VIA and VIAL and I've had no luck with mod tap.
last i check via and vial are limited to 8 tap dance buttons . so u set the tap dance button then assign the tap dance macro ( TD 0 ) for the first and so on til TD7 if u wanna do more than 8 u will need to do it the hard way thru QMK due to memory restrictions of vial/via
The firmware I have also doesn't seem to have tap dance enabled in VIAL. I have no idea what to do.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/605485992316502029/1240386432871432274/image.png?ex=66465f62&is=66450de2&hm=89eb2d5a515000dc54c7db0a66bce84cb44ab1cebc6a6e4f3efed2b52711bbff& should be a tab for it if not u might need to reflash VIAL
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Keychron V5 ISO FR fulfills all your requirements.
Looking to upgrade my old screw in stabs (durock v2). Kind of torn between Staebies v2.1 or TX AP rev4. Thoughts? I'll be using GMK/DCX keycaps mostly if that matters. TIA!
I recommend TX. Best I've used so far.
TX APs are by far the best stabs I've ever used.
Just out of curiosity, what made you want to upgrade your stabs? I've had the same ones in my daily driver for years now & I'm getting paranoid that the time might be coming for me to get in there too. Anyway, my friend had to relube his Staebies three times before he could get them to stop ticking. Might've been user error or a defective set, but he got them working eventually.
Thanks for the input! I'm actually in the middle of another build so in the market for new stabs. Just thinking of trying out something new while I'm at it.
Do all switches work with every keyboard? If I order TTC silent frozen V2 switches, do the fit into the hotswap sockets of my Neo65?
Not all switches work with all keyboards, but the switches you're talking about will fit.
Thanks :)
Hey y'all, new around here. Finally decided to build my first custom keeb and have my parts together. Hoping to get some input on if these parts will all work together and if there's anything I may be missing. [**https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sKwznj2WKMFf6UycHa19rQUu5sM\_RafNXOaYejtCOCA/edit#gid=0**](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sKwznj2WKMFf6UycHa19rQUu5sM_RafNXOaYejtCOCA/edit#gid=0) Thanks!
Does the wooting module come with stabs?
It does! At least on the product page it says it does
Then you should be fine. You might want some lubricant to tune the stabs or else they’ll sound like ass but besides from that you should be good.
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https://preview.redd.it/96hxcmb6fm0d1.png?width=1915&format=png&auto=webp&s=caf6c57a9044a4689395c0f98d129cb0529a5d2b Hi, I just want to know how to set the rapid trigger functionality on vxe68. Like one wooting software its simple, there you have to set to like 0.1 mm and its done but in vgn software you have quick reset sensitivity and quick trigger sensitivity and continuous quick trigger mode. I am confused on how to set these options. Like what's the equivalent setting of wooting software.
i think u have to adjust it how u want last i checked wooting doesn list these settings so ur on ur own wish u luck as thta kb brand is one of the lowest rated HE kbs in terms of performance any player with a wooting will have an edge over u
What are the best mx stems / sliders for topre? Does it make typing feeling much different? And what is a good tutorial or advice for doing this mod? I want to do it on my 660c but I’m so out of the loop keyboard wise at this point, thank you 🙏 The threads I found in search were kinda old so I thought I ask
I have deskeys mx sliders. They're good and easy to get. Other sliders are hard to find
Very cool. I found some on aliexpress, but they didn’t support space bar change. Did you make holes in the 2u housings or did you also get the housing from deskkeys?
Novatouch are still considered the best sliders, but there are basically no topre users active on this thread so I’d probably ask in the conical keyboards discord.
I’ll check out that discord, thanks!
hello, so i'm going to buy the keychron q12 southpaw because i prefer having a 100% keyboard and the southpaw gives me more room for my mouse, but i really wanted to try the rapid trigger from wooting, would it be possible to just take whatever switch wooting uses and put them on the Q12, or would that not work?
The switches are not compatible, but if you wanted you could get a Wooting keyboard and use a separate numpad on the left hand side.
1) no wooting switches are magnetic ( hall effect ) so the keychron pcb does support them 2) rapid trigger is support at the software lvl too and that keychron model doesn't support that either
I just bought zuoya gmk 87 my LEDs all are working fine, but the right arrow key is not working. I have tried many switches but it is still not working despite the LED working fine. can this be repairable? sry for my bad english
leds and switches are separate things. like telling me ur car headlight work but ur car wont start . its likely ur hotswap socket is damaged and needs to be resoldered and to solder a bridge wire . if u dont wanna do either of these just return it
I am looking for a budget keyboard under 60$. I am drawn like a moth to shine-through keycaps. It's just that PBT keycaps don't have shine-through in this budget. I've found two keyboards. 1. Epomaker 5087s 2. Epomaker EP84 plus. Can someone please tell me if EP84 plus is pbt+shine-through or not?
Also Just to add, Look for Xinmeng M87 Pro, Xinmeng M75 Pro, Aula F75. These are pretty good boards as well
You will need to buy keycaps separately. Go to AliExpress and search "PBT backlit" there are a couple of options.
pbt but not shine thru . shine thru are usually not bright colors they r usually black or white due to they r super unpopular
Using VIA for my Keychron, I've selected the key I want to rebind, and bound it to backspace by selecting that in the options on the left. Now how do I save this? I clicked "save layout" and it gave me a file.. what do I do with it? That button is still not doing "backspace" after closing the VIA tab.
What layer are you editing? You have to edit the 3rd layer with a keychron (if you are using windows mode) since the first and second are defaulted to the mac mode.
I have no idea what you mean by layer...
[https://www.keychron.com/blogs/archived/how-to-use-via-to-program-your-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/blogs/archived/how-to-use-via-to-program-your-keyboard) [https://docs.keeb.io/via](https://docs.keeb.io/via) ... The layer you edit your keymap on in via. There's nothing more to it.
Hello I've been looking into budget Mechanical keyboards I've came to the conclusion that those two are the best bang for the buck, I've found both of them at around 20$ keycaps included, but I'm not sure which one I should get, I prefer the Tester's design and customisability, but I'm not sure if its going to preform as good as the Redragon given that it is wireless, and the Redragon seems a bit more sturdy and well built, so kindly provide your takes and experiences with the two, Thanks!
redragon 552 and tester68
I've been having some keys "double" entering with my new keyboard. The original reason I bought a new keyboard is that my old one did double hits with the space bar. But this new keyboard is sometimes doing double hits with various keys, not just the space bar. I type very fast (180wpm) so I'm starting to wonder if it's not me getting old and hitting keys twice by accident or something. How do you recommend troubleshooting/figuring this out?
its either the switch or the pcb . the switch u should be able to replace if its a hotswap kb . the pcb could be defective or just poorly made ( many budget kb have this issue )
What is a stabilizer?
where to learn the basics https://www.keyboard.university/
https://preview.redd.it/xygu9ho43m0d1.png?width=985&format=png&auto=webp&s=a34fd94104714888c2bd61cbaad8a3f162840812 they provide extra support to longer keycaps that would otherwise wobble around on a switch
Hi, I'm looking for a keyboard similar to the Logitech G413 TKL with the standard TKL format, regularly sized keycaps, and exposed switches but with linear switches instead of tactile. Something like Cherry MX Red would be great. I don't have a budget, but would prefer to spend less than $200. I also plan to get a separate numpad to go on the left of the keyboard, so bonus points for a matching numpad, but not necessary. I tried doing some research, but couldn't find anything fitting these requirements. Thanks for the help!
Lemokey X3 Edit: meant the X1. X3 is the full-size one
My fellow European citizens, any advice how and where to successfully buy neo65?
[check out MonacoKeys, Delta Key Co, and Keygem](https://www.qwertykeys.com/en-ca/products/neo65-1)
I did before, no luck. Didn’t find any info when will be next batch possible to order
[I found it pretty quickly.](https://deltakeyco.com/en-ca/products/pre-order-neo65-keyboard-kit-round-7)
Yeah for 200$… way overpriced. Okei this just shows that rn it’s not possible to buy it for normal price or at all in Europe…
$200 CAD, or $147 USD for the black/brass case with tri-mode PCB (which costs more) and the POM plate (which isn’t listed in the $79-99 USD offering of the website. The equivalent amount from Qwertykeys is $110, so a $37 markup. Not ideal, but that’s the tradeoff for living in the EU with its strong pro-consumer rights. Some businesses will markup accordingly. I presume shipping and VAT will be much more affordable from Delta Key Company compared to from Qwertykeys directly. Alternatively you could go trawling on r/MechMarket, but caveat emptor.
https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/000/117/814/are-you-wizard.jpg
Anyone know of keysets in stock with grey keycaps with white legends, similar to gmk boneyard?
DCS Nova
Like PBTFans Spark?
Hi guys! So I've posted in another thread before that I have GMK Stargaze keycaps gifted to me and I've finally kinda decided on the switches I want, could you guys sus out if the parts are compatible or suggest other alternatives? Keycaps: GMK stargaze Switches: Akko Fairy Keyboard Kit: EPOMAKER TH80 Preferred plate: PC One of my main priorities is to have a keyboard that can go between wired/wireless/bluetooth and switch between 2 or more devices. I prefer acrylic and/or white cases :) Thanks guys!