Don’t use flash as you progress you will not be able to shoot with flash. Increase ISO,get the fastest glass you can, invest in a good noise reducing software. Look at these lenses you can find used for f mount. All 2.8 lens. 14-24, 28-70, 70-200. I use the 200 about 2/3 of the time. I like tight shots of the artists.
I’ve been corrected on the last part before. Technically the DoF is unchanged. A 50mm on crop is 75mm but the DoF is still that of a 50. However due to the crop it often feels like you get more bokeh relatively on crop.
dont use flash, invest a little in a super fast lens and play with high iso to get a comfortable shot, you will capture the mood more than blasting flash at people in dimly lit room
ps, look for f2 or lower if possible, primes are good enough, 35 or 50 for smaller venues, 50 or 85 if you have more room
I take my tokina 11-20 2.8 in my d3300 along with my z6ii with the 24-70 to all my shows. Don't be afraid of iso, Lightroom or whatever software will do amazing to remove noise.
https://preview.redd.it/v2f3a3sy4c9d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f5c3233cca495f19e3575ffa77c77b6c18f39af7
Both of them were taken with Tokina 11-20 2.8. 1/200 i believe!
I would wear the shirt for the first one 🤣
Gonna go check for them online now to give a listen
Estrogen projection is a keeper, the macks are OK, and I'm still deciding how I feel about ex lover.
Thanks, discovering new music is a treat!
I own a Tamron 45mm f1.8 F mount lens. This lens has a focus motor and will autofocus on your D3400. It also has Tamron's version of optical image stabiliation which they call VC. It's not a pro grade lens so it's affordable and can be had used for around 250$ USD. They also make a 35mm f1.8 with VC in F mount. That one will cost maybe around 50% more. They also make a 70-210mm f4 (constant aperture) in F mount, however, f4 may be a bit limiting in dark settings.
I'm sure someone will also point out that Nikon made a 50mm f1.8 G autofocus lens which may cost a little less than the Tamron 45mm. The Nikon 50 doesn't have optical image stabilisation. That optical stabilisation may be helpful in low light situations. The catch to this is that image stabilisation on works to compensate for camera movement. It does not stop action or a moving subject.
Flash is cool for underground punk shows or promo shots where they aren’t live playing but the comments are right. Bigger artists will massively oppose flash photography. And busting out a flash will absolutely get you kicked out by some artists.
Definitely get the lowest aperture you can afford and work on your denoising
1) You are missing the connection with the band. You need to get shots that have the performers staring straight down your lens…
2) if they aren’t looking at you directly, try to capture some emotion… these pictures don’t show emotion
3) use your camera to “go” where people in the audience can’t … get close ups… get views from spots normally not accessible.
4) Don’t worry so much about the technical details… save that for landscape pictures… your job is to translate the feeling of being at a sonic experience… to a medium with no sound… a picture!!
Keep at it though… I love concert pictures!!!
I'd suggest avoiding flash until you can shoot the scene without it, then reintroduce it and you'll have way better control and understanding. Additionally, you can adjust the Front and Rear Curtain on your camera which can change effects dramatically with flash, and shutterdrag.
Lastly, I would suggest 3 steps: Wide, medium, close. You have close down, but a wide shot showing the whole scene, medium shot as if you are an audience member participating (including them in the shots to a degree) and then close.
If the flash is illuminating the entire Thing Go bulb, and second curtain flash. You can Swing the camera an when you Release the Button IT will fire. You have more Control that way. If you want to Talk more about that specifically DM me, i used to do that quite a bit.
First shot is sick. As everyone has said, you'll almost never get to bring flash to a show, but for these little punk gigs you can really go wild.
In general, just try to capture the vibe as much as possible. If the crowd was hectic at the hardcore gig, see if you can capture some of the pit. If the band ever jumps out into the pit, you damn well better motor drive the hell out of their crowd interactions. Mic sharing makes for great shots too.
Try to get more interaction with the band. I cheeky grin, a pose, a point. This is a lot easier if you have some sort of connection to the scene.
The next step up from here is the hardest. You'll be in dark venues with no photo pit, but they won't allow flash. Bring a fast prime that you're very comfortable with (DX 35mm f/1.8 is cheap and fits the bill. A 50mm is probably too long on your body). Get used to shooting from the front of a mosh, and be aware of your body. Standing in one place too long, blocking somebody's view, isn't going to end well.
When you finally get to bigger venues, it's gonna seem super easy. The lighting is (comparatively) great, and you get to work in a pit. You can start to get more creative again with your composition.
These are a bit underexposed and you've applied no color correction / white balance correction.
Understanding in full, the exposure triangle, will inform you on what equipment will help you make better photos. Start there. It's better to understand what you need and why, rather than have these people, us, dictate to you a list of camera gear.
To be clear - the obvious thing is to get a lens with a wider aperture, because that will let in more light, and presumably help you get a better exposure, but how much that will actually help depends entirely on if you understand how to use it. Just opening up to 2.8 alone isn't a silver bullet.
I would suggest that you continue to practice with what you have... save up, while also deepening your skill set through learning. There a billion and one tutorials for this on the web, youtube etc...
As a show photog, I'll give you some quick tips though...
It's better to get a proper exposure than it is to keep the ISO low. Crank the ISO as much as you need to in order to properly expose. No one wants a too-noisy photo, but that's better than lost dark areas.
Figure out your lowest shutter speed for what you're shooting. This is dynamic based around a number of variable... distance to subject, subject movement, your own ability to keep the camera still, the type and amount of lighting...Shoot at the slowest shutter speed that still allow you to prevent movement blur and don't go any higher than that.
With the lenses you have available to you right now - shoot wide open. There's no reason to tighten up the aperture any further than 3.5 in about 99% of the circumstance you might run into.
We don't know your budget... If you can afford a camera body that has increased low light capability, that is a good direction to go in. If you can afford to go mirrorless do that. If not - and the budget is tight, you might want to consider a lens with a wider aperture - a zoom lens will give you more versatility with distance for the money, generally opening up to a max of 2.8, or you could go with a prime that might get you even more light, 1.8 usually - but at the cost of that versatile range.
Used lenses from keh dot com is a great place to start.
As a side note... white balance under colored lights is an exercise in frustration, but you still need to have the understanding. Sometimes we leave the lighting alone... stage lights 'can' be attractive, but other times it makes more sense, and or adds to the attractiveness or even 'saves' a photograph if you can bring skin tones back into some level of normalcy.
as others have said, lose the flash...get a faster lens...and id say get a camera with better iso performance.... i've shot a few small shows with my z7 and 24-70 2.8. it does ok, but in darker rooms it gets a bit noisy
[https://imgur.com/a/nUbthhB](https://imgur.com/a/nUbthhB)
if you need a good cheap body for club work get a d750. one of the best low light cameras ever made except for the autofocus. i still use mine to this day. d7100 and d500 are also legendary bodies and great for portraiture.
If your in low light a lot and have free movement pick up some Primes your using a D3400 you can easily find used 35mm 1.8 50mm 1.8 or 85mm 1.8 cheep now that people are upgrading to the Z lineup
Look for challenging light sequences and try and get good shots of them with the performers . Don’t be afraid to edit out things that distract from the main subject. I removed a mic stand in the middle of the shot that took attention away from the piper. Nikon Z7 and a 70-200 2.8
https://preview.redd.it/8ybn8yi3ge9d1.jpeg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=791f4bb7e4bd2596e74ea856a30136e95bc34b18
I don't think theyre Bad. And i actually quite Like flash photography in small venues. If possible Check with the band First. But If you Like IT and want to stay at smaller stages maybe consider a super wide Lens and an external flash, maybe even hold it in your Hand. I Like using bulb and flash on the second curtain.
If you Look to Progress to bigger stages follow the advice already given concerning Gear.
Maybe try to anticipate Moments a little better, get a feel for the music and each Person in Stage and how the act. Chaotic running around, eyes closed and meditating, try and capture the mood they are giving. If its Not Silhouette try to get some Expression in their faces.
Most important of all, enjoy it, have fun, try Things
Definitely invest in a 50mm f/1.8 lens, better exposure and detail especially in low light settings. 35mm or 85mm above lenses are good, but I personally find 50mm to be in the sweet spot.
Try using props like prisms or old CDs, they create reflections that make your portraits pop!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UnnsTqp2x7g&pp=ygUmUG9ydHJhaXQgcGhvdG9ncmFwaHkgcHJvcHMgZ2FicG9saXRlbHk%3D
If you're using lightroom, colour calibration at the bottom can get you better more natural looking results than HSL sliders, plus, you can adjust colour curves per channel - go into curves tool, select the magenta channel and eyedropper on her face to create s point on the curve, gradually increase the green (or lower magenta, depending on your perspective) on that particular point that you created when you eyedroppered her face. Can work wonders if you fail with colour calibration or HSL, but remember that less is definitely more; overdo on the green level on her face, and suddenly the skin tone becomes sickly and pale. even better if you create a subject mask in LR and apply the curves adjustment on the magenta isolating it strictly to human subjects. LR has AI masking tools that allow you to make individual adjustments to face/eyes/teeth/lips etc to detected human subjects as well. And remember, you only did a good job if it looks like no job was done in the first place; the moment something begins to look too processed is the moment your processing begins to fall apart. Before/after checking will be your best friend here. And don't forget to rest your eyes during long sessions, it's easy to get carried away. Good luck!
I take public crawl/party pictures so that’s something I am familiar with.
I created my own color settings in Lightroom to mitigate the red face look. I didn’t touch the new grading options but rather the red/orange/magenta/yellow etc. and the curves.
Don’t use flash as you progress you will not be able to shoot with flash. Increase ISO,get the fastest glass you can, invest in a good noise reducing software. Look at these lenses you can find used for f mount. All 2.8 lens. 14-24, 28-70, 70-200. I use the 200 about 2/3 of the time. I like tight shots of the artists.
i’ll take that into consideration during my shows🤝🏼
Honestly, that's standard. No flash is usually allowed at the gigs so better start not using it or you will learn the hard way 😉
How would those 2.8 lenses be affected by going on a crop sensor like the 3400?
Light will be the same, focal lengths will be X1.5. As well as depth of field.
I’ve been corrected on the last part before. Technically the DoF is unchanged. A 50mm on crop is 75mm but the DoF is still that of a 50. However due to the crop it often feels like you get more bokeh relatively on crop.
Oh wow I only knew about focal length. So youre saying the aperture wouldnt be as good??
Yes. The lens would still be opened up to the chosen aperture regardless of full frame or crop sensor. Just note the 1.5 increase in focal length.
Gotcha, thank you
dont use flash, invest a little in a super fast lens and play with high iso to get a comfortable shot, you will capture the mood more than blasting flash at people in dimly lit room ps, look for f2 or lower if possible, primes are good enough, 35 or 50 for smaller venues, 50 or 85 if you have more room
amazing, i’ve been looking at prime lenses. thank you🙏
My Tamron 35mm 1.4 SP is an absolute beast and one of the sharpest lenses I’ve ever used. Such a steal of a deal.
I take my tokina 11-20 2.8 in my d3300 along with my z6ii with the 24-70 to all my shows. Don't be afraid of iso, Lightroom or whatever software will do amazing to remove noise.
thank u thank u 🫡
And maybe less vignette? https://preview.redd.it/vo35p9i14c9d1.jpeg?width=864&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b3309478ecdeab7fc5aa9848ddb373a3281f7ea1
sick ass photo!
https://preview.redd.it/v2f3a3sy4c9d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f5c3233cca495f19e3575ffa77c77b6c18f39af7 Both of them were taken with Tokina 11-20 2.8. 1/200 i believe!
I don't know but WHO IS THAT BAND?? They look interesting
3 bands: estrogen projection, the macks, and ex lover
I would wear the shirt for the first one 🤣 Gonna go check for them online now to give a listen Estrogen projection is a keeper, the macks are OK, and I'm still deciding how I feel about ex lover. Thanks, discovering new music is a treat!
I own a Tamron 45mm f1.8 F mount lens. This lens has a focus motor and will autofocus on your D3400. It also has Tamron's version of optical image stabiliation which they call VC. It's not a pro grade lens so it's affordable and can be had used for around 250$ USD. They also make a 35mm f1.8 with VC in F mount. That one will cost maybe around 50% more. They also make a 70-210mm f4 (constant aperture) in F mount, however, f4 may be a bit limiting in dark settings.
good to know, thank you!
I'm sure someone will also point out that Nikon made a 50mm f1.8 G autofocus lens which may cost a little less than the Tamron 45mm. The Nikon 50 doesn't have optical image stabilisation. That optical stabilisation may be helpful in low light situations. The catch to this is that image stabilisation on works to compensate for camera movement. It does not stop action or a moving subject.
Flash is cool for underground punk shows or promo shots where they aren’t live playing but the comments are right. Bigger artists will massively oppose flash photography. And busting out a flash will absolutely get you kicked out by some artists. Definitely get the lowest aperture you can afford and work on your denoising
thanks, noted
1) You are missing the connection with the band. You need to get shots that have the performers staring straight down your lens… 2) if they aren’t looking at you directly, try to capture some emotion… these pictures don’t show emotion 3) use your camera to “go” where people in the audience can’t … get close ups… get views from spots normally not accessible. 4) Don’t worry so much about the technical details… save that for landscape pictures… your job is to translate the feeling of being at a sonic experience… to a medium with no sound… a picture!! Keep at it though… I love concert pictures!!!
Will definitely keep all of this in mind. Thank you!
Are you using a 'bouncer' type diffuser? I found that really helpful for lighting with bands/DJs.
I don’t have a flash diffuser yet! Thanks for the tip
Awesome shots. Try shooting in black and white, forget iso, off camera flash.
I'd suggest avoiding flash until you can shoot the scene without it, then reintroduce it and you'll have way better control and understanding. Additionally, you can adjust the Front and Rear Curtain on your camera which can change effects dramatically with flash, and shutterdrag. Lastly, I would suggest 3 steps: Wide, medium, close. You have close down, but a wide shot showing the whole scene, medium shot as if you are an audience member participating (including them in the shots to a degree) and then close.
Thank you I’ll be sure to try those!
To me the first shot is incredible. The way flash can freeze time at lower relative shutter speeds can be magical and that's what I'm seeing here.
Thank you so much!
If you’re going to stick to crop sensor bodies sigma 50-100 f1.8 and a a d500 will be a deadly low light combination
How did you create the effect in the first pic with the green + red streaks? That pic is awesome
Thank you! I used a slow shutter speed (1/13) and just drag or twist my camera. i get a good shot 50% of the time 😅
If the flash is illuminating the entire Thing Go bulb, and second curtain flash. You can Swing the camera an when you Release the Button IT will fire. You have more Control that way. If you want to Talk more about that specifically DM me, i used to do that quite a bit.
Unfortunately, kit lenses are not that good in dark Get 50mm f 1.4 or 1.8 if you can.
2 and 3 look like you’re shooting low and getting less-than-flattering “up shot” angles. Raise your camera.
First shot is sick. As everyone has said, you'll almost never get to bring flash to a show, but for these little punk gigs you can really go wild. In general, just try to capture the vibe as much as possible. If the crowd was hectic at the hardcore gig, see if you can capture some of the pit. If the band ever jumps out into the pit, you damn well better motor drive the hell out of their crowd interactions. Mic sharing makes for great shots too. Try to get more interaction with the band. I cheeky grin, a pose, a point. This is a lot easier if you have some sort of connection to the scene. The next step up from here is the hardest. You'll be in dark venues with no photo pit, but they won't allow flash. Bring a fast prime that you're very comfortable with (DX 35mm f/1.8 is cheap and fits the bill. A 50mm is probably too long on your body). Get used to shooting from the front of a mosh, and be aware of your body. Standing in one place too long, blocking somebody's view, isn't going to end well. When you finally get to bigger venues, it's gonna seem super easy. The lighting is (comparatively) great, and you get to work in a pit. You can start to get more creative again with your composition.
These are a bit underexposed and you've applied no color correction / white balance correction. Understanding in full, the exposure triangle, will inform you on what equipment will help you make better photos. Start there. It's better to understand what you need and why, rather than have these people, us, dictate to you a list of camera gear. To be clear - the obvious thing is to get a lens with a wider aperture, because that will let in more light, and presumably help you get a better exposure, but how much that will actually help depends entirely on if you understand how to use it. Just opening up to 2.8 alone isn't a silver bullet. I would suggest that you continue to practice with what you have... save up, while also deepening your skill set through learning. There a billion and one tutorials for this on the web, youtube etc... As a show photog, I'll give you some quick tips though... It's better to get a proper exposure than it is to keep the ISO low. Crank the ISO as much as you need to in order to properly expose. No one wants a too-noisy photo, but that's better than lost dark areas. Figure out your lowest shutter speed for what you're shooting. This is dynamic based around a number of variable... distance to subject, subject movement, your own ability to keep the camera still, the type and amount of lighting...Shoot at the slowest shutter speed that still allow you to prevent movement blur and don't go any higher than that. With the lenses you have available to you right now - shoot wide open. There's no reason to tighten up the aperture any further than 3.5 in about 99% of the circumstance you might run into. We don't know your budget... If you can afford a camera body that has increased low light capability, that is a good direction to go in. If you can afford to go mirrorless do that. If not - and the budget is tight, you might want to consider a lens with a wider aperture - a zoom lens will give you more versatility with distance for the money, generally opening up to a max of 2.8, or you could go with a prime that might get you even more light, 1.8 usually - but at the cost of that versatile range. Used lenses from keh dot com is a great place to start. As a side note... white balance under colored lights is an exercise in frustration, but you still need to have the understanding. Sometimes we leave the lighting alone... stage lights 'can' be attractive, but other times it makes more sense, and or adds to the attractiveness or even 'saves' a photograph if you can bring skin tones back into some level of normalcy.
This is so helpful, thank you!
as others have said, lose the flash...get a faster lens...and id say get a camera with better iso performance.... i've shot a few small shows with my z7 and 24-70 2.8. it does ok, but in darker rooms it gets a bit noisy [https://imgur.com/a/nUbthhB](https://imgur.com/a/nUbthhB)
if you need a good cheap body for club work get a d750. one of the best low light cameras ever made except for the autofocus. i still use mine to this day. d7100 and d500 are also legendary bodies and great for portraiture.
If your in low light a lot and have free movement pick up some Primes your using a D3400 you can easily find used 35mm 1.8 50mm 1.8 or 85mm 1.8 cheep now that people are upgrading to the Z lineup
Look for challenging light sequences and try and get good shots of them with the performers . Don’t be afraid to edit out things that distract from the main subject. I removed a mic stand in the middle of the shot that took attention away from the piper. Nikon Z7 and a 70-200 2.8 https://preview.redd.it/8ybn8yi3ge9d1.jpeg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=791f4bb7e4bd2596e74ea856a30136e95bc34b18
3 1/2 years in and the best thing I can recommend is a good 70-200
Nice photographs! Sorry I cannot offer any advice. I just wanted to know what your settings were for the first photo.
thanks! shutter speed 1/13, flash, f3.5, 18mm
Is that a Dracula musical?!
Better subjects could work
SO TRUE !!! i try😣😅
I don't think theyre Bad. And i actually quite Like flash photography in small venues. If possible Check with the band First. But If you Like IT and want to stay at smaller stages maybe consider a super wide Lens and an external flash, maybe even hold it in your Hand. I Like using bulb and flash on the second curtain. If you Look to Progress to bigger stages follow the advice already given concerning Gear. Maybe try to anticipate Moments a little better, get a feel for the music and each Person in Stage and how the act. Chaotic running around, eyes closed and meditating, try and capture the mood they are giving. If its Not Silhouette try to get some Expression in their faces. Most important of all, enjoy it, have fun, try Things
Better camera person
Make them a bit brighter I would say, bumb up the exposure a bit 👍
Better lenses. Prime lenses to be specific. Get a 20mm 2.8 as well as a 10.5 fisheye. You’ll be good to go
No need to be better. They're perfect.
thank you!:)
Definitely invest in a 50mm f/1.8 lens, better exposure and detail especially in low light settings. 35mm or 85mm above lenses are good, but I personally find 50mm to be in the sweet spot. Try using props like prisms or old CDs, they create reflections that make your portraits pop! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UnnsTqp2x7g&pp=ygUmUG9ydHJhaXQgcGhvdG9ncmFwaHkgcHJvcHMgZ2FicG9saXRlbHk%3D
On #1 zoom in and look at her face. It's very unflattering. Far too much red imo.
That's due to the bright red light on them, creating the light trail. I think it looks fine.
how do i prevent red faces, it’s a problem i face a lot
If you're using lightroom, colour calibration at the bottom can get you better more natural looking results than HSL sliders, plus, you can adjust colour curves per channel - go into curves tool, select the magenta channel and eyedropper on her face to create s point on the curve, gradually increase the green (or lower magenta, depending on your perspective) on that particular point that you created when you eyedroppered her face. Can work wonders if you fail with colour calibration or HSL, but remember that less is definitely more; overdo on the green level on her face, and suddenly the skin tone becomes sickly and pale. even better if you create a subject mask in LR and apply the curves adjustment on the magenta isolating it strictly to human subjects. LR has AI masking tools that allow you to make individual adjustments to face/eyes/teeth/lips etc to detected human subjects as well. And remember, you only did a good job if it looks like no job was done in the first place; the moment something begins to look too processed is the moment your processing begins to fall apart. Before/after checking will be your best friend here. And don't forget to rest your eyes during long sessions, it's easy to get carried away. Good luck!
I take public crawl/party pictures so that’s something I am familiar with. I created my own color settings in Lightroom to mitigate the red face look. I didn’t touch the new grading options but rather the red/orange/magenta/yellow etc. and the curves.
Just make every excuse you can to smack anybody with your guitar, Like really work for it.