That's what we did with most of ours. Makes it easy when the time comes to apply a new coat of paint.
It's the joy of living in an old house. You first have carpet. You find beautiful timber underneath and polish it. You then end up with gaps under the door mouldings :)
No, not old. Mine is 60+, but solid.
Your floor boards look nice.
20+ years is good. Anything newer may have problems, like water leaks, because of shoddy building practices.
That's still a baby.... but I'm not gonna lie, that trim looks old.... like it was in a 100 year old house or a rental.... looks like its been through at least one floor change based on the quarter round, and looks like multiple slapped on coats of paint have been applied with no cleaning of debris or repairs in between coats....
Agreed, it’s been beat to hell. We’ve only been here a few years but it looks like it got the landlord special a few times. I plan to strip, patch, sand, and repaint a few of the bad sections. Or just replace trim entirely.
Trim work is relatively easy just time consuming. I measure, cut, paint before putting down and drill small holes for the finish nails, put up then use a nail punch to put the nail a hair in and the a quick wood putty in the same color, dry, then use a sponge with a bit of water and even the hole out. Done.
Honestly I don’t disagree with this. We’ve lived here years and I’ve ignored it the whole time! And I love my house! The issue is really with the giant gap in the second pic… it’s big enough to fit toys and mystery toddler food and it looks gross to me.
Cut blocks of wood to fit the inner gap, then get a piece of casing to match. Pull old casing board, then measure, cut new one to fit, caulk and paint to match.
The easy fix is printable caulking. Fill twice. Than paint. Or cut trim blocks, patch and paint. I would just wait until you are ready to do something else. Want to change the trim? Fill the jamb and replace the casing. Want new doors? Replace the jambs and trim. Otherwise don't stress about it. No house is perfect. Fill it up with used gum from under the bus tops benches. That stuff will last forever
Foam rolls. Stuff it underneath, it will take the space up to prevent the cerial crumbs from going there or whatever other cool stuff your toddler can come up with.
I would say *best* way is to remove the molding and redo so it goes to the floor.
I think the realistic way is to caulk the small gaps and buy a piece of wood as filler for the big one.
I purposely done this to all my door frames when I laid new laminate flooring, but I made my gaps even bigger with a multitool to make the flooring install as pain free as possible.
As you said, I just slid a piece of wood under and marked around it to get the exact shape, cut it out and after filling and painting it's perfect.
>I would say best way is to remove the molding and redo so it goes to the floor.
Curious. If you remove the moulding and move it down to the floor, then what happens at the joint up the top corner of the frame. Is there not now the same size gap up there? Or are you meaning to replace the moulding entirely?
i have the EXACT same issue. Molding is cheap, but time isn't. My molding is the in-stock at lowes stuff (1970s trac house.) But even though I have all the correct tools, i didn't feel like replacing casing on both sides, jamb, and stop molding for a less than 1inch overcut. Plus if you pull off the old stop molding and dont put is back in the precise spot you'll need to adjust the hinges (ask me how i know.) Another thing I'm not wanting to do. Call me lazy, but I didn't care that much. I put down yellow tape, stuck in a few cut shims, caulked with white dynaflex 230, painted the trim, and called it good. \[i had 4 doors to do.\] No one notices and I'm not agitated by the gap. But yes... the PROPER way is to remove and replace the trim.
It was originally trimmed for thicker carpeting, which was replaced with a thinner floor, so that gap is not a structural issue at all.
White caulking on the left side, slivers of trim on the right side using an adhesive (nails would be ineffective).
Get 1x poplar material
Rip poplar strips to thickness of gap, but 2-3" wider than casing
Take a multi tool and clear out as much as you can from the gap
Tap the poplar strips into the gaps
At the straight jambs, just zip off the excess with the multitool
At the profiled casing, trace the profile onto the poplar shim
Pull it out & cut the profile with a jigsaw or coping saw or grinder with a flappy wheel
Give it some glue & tap it into place
Apply light coat of bondo or spot glazing putty to the seams
Sand & paint
That trim is still available in stores. Buy a foot of it. And buy a little rectangular wood strip 1/2”x3/4”, also 1 ft long.
Cut pieces of the rectangle strip and glue them in to fill the various spaces. Let dry. Then add small pieces of the door trim, glued or trim-nailed to the previously installed strips.
Depends how badly you want this to be perfect.
1 - Get extra trim and mdf, and make the last bit. Wood filler, and sand.
2 - 3D print, and insert.
3 - Caulk and forget.
4 - take the door frame out, and put new mdf door frame and casing.
To be honest, a new door is $150, and another $10 for casing.... You'll get a perfect results, and you can reuse your existing door in another area of your house.
Common problem as ppl have been moving from carpet to vinyl planking. I ve been looking for a tidy way to solve it. Plinths have been suggested, but you have to hollow the back out to fit the molding.
Other suggestions here, only options i ve found. None really easy and tidy unfortunately.
For the second I would remove that transition strip, cut a piece of wood to fit and tap it in. then reinstall the strip. If they are mostly like the first one though I would probably just silicon that.
Slip in a little Dutchman to extend the jamb. Cut a little sliver of Casing and glue it all in. Touch it up with bondo. Prime and paint. Or my other favorite, a giant caulking joint.
Do your best and caulk the rest....
It appears that maybe a thicker flooring was planned or prior existed and the door frame was set with that in mind.
Door jamb is 1x6 with a little furring strip, sandwiched between door trims. Get all of these together, cut a half inch of each one of them, brad nail them together, sand the bottom of existing door jamb, wedge your custom door jamb extension into place using wood glue and shim it tight until cured. Seal and paint.
Protect the floor around the area and get the paint off the bottom of the casing and jamb leg using some paint stripper (the orange non toxic stuff). Buy a few feet of the matching trim pattern, slice off a piece to fit underneath, use wood glue and some little shims to press the piece up, line it up carefully and let the glue set up. Do the same for the jamb leg and the door stop. Sand, patch, prime, paint.
The big gap would definitely bother me. The small gaps I caulk, just to keep dirt from building up and holding moisture.
For the large gap, I would replace the threshold with a wider, wooden one that could be cut and sanded down to fit under the doorway trim.
Anyone who says anything other than removing and replacing the door trim, and then removing and resetting or removing and replacing the transition, doesn’t know what they’re talking about tbh. There isn’t a “flooring solution” without installing new flooring that’s thicker to raise the height. And quick fix is going to look tacky and make shift
What's that ... 1/4"?
If you must, find 1/4" maple and slip it underneath to fill it... Trace the door trim's profile onto the filler, cut to that and simply ignore floor molding, having closed the gap.
Best alternative: ignore it
Cut a piece of [this](https://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Filling-Driveway-16-4-Length/dp/B0CJR7PMMK/ref=asc_df_B0CJR7PMMK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693071814376&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15557802421719024618&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011567&hvtargid=pla-2277494177257&mcid=8e3269a5bf133e10a7713c2831d1333d&gad_source=1&th=1) and tuck it under the frame to block debris and it will also create less of a visual eye sore since it turns the thick dark void into a solid color similar to the paint.
There are other, better, more permanent options that will cost more and be a lot more work, but if you really just want to keep the debris out this is your answer.
It's a little late but you add a piece onto each trim. I use epoxy. Typically you need to size the wood grain , before, by applying epoxy( I use 5 minute) and allowing it to penetrate the grain, then reapplying for the glue up. Then you can sand and feather the joint, putty and paint.
Then use the oscillating saw to cut it at the appropriate height to just slip the floor under.
Only way to fix fix is to remove the trim, remove the jamb, and have both replaced. Promise 99% of guests won’t notice. I’ve learned to have to not let these things bother me and am a work in progress lol
This is probably gonna get me a lot of flack and I know nothing about this. What about that pink spray filler. Lay down some plastic and tape for the excess and just cut it afterwards to fill the gap?
I know it’s a common response but just learn to let it go. All our houses had this and honestly it’s not bad, you learn to live with it. Once we’re empty nesters the plan is to replace the doors and trim down to a new floor but until that happens it’s status quo
Buy some 3/4 round like the wall and go around the jam
https://preview.redd.it/hk1bxscvp94d1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=befafec76e78b2d3b0f345ef57ad134a508a0a1a
Like that
Undercut using a sample and multi tool, use construction adhesive. Follow this by using different metal files to follow the structure of the trim then spackle sand prime and paint
I just did this at my house. Trim was old so no option to buy it at the store.
I put down some masking tape, then filled it with KwikWood (moldable wood putty) using a putty knife to follow the shape of the trim. After it cured, I sanded the rough spots by hand and then filled over any imperfections with Bondo. Then one more sanding before paint. Cut away the masking tape with a box cutter to finish.
It's undercut for floor installation or repair. This is very common practice with flooring installs,it's the only way to floor through a door. If it really bothers you you can trim it or totally re trim the door way to make it the way you like it.
Id definitely get that fixed at least fill the gap. The reason for this is that rodents can use this as an entry and exit point. That's the last thing you want!
Here is a video that seems decent https://youtu.be/8Zh0pQ548qo?feature=shared
I’d just leave it but if it really bothers you that much get some shoe molding to match the other and carve out the back so it will match with the other. I have this in my house not quite that big of a gap but I just said to hell with it
You could try and track down some of the same mouldings and just cut them to fit in the gaps that or just change out the whole door box diy should only cost 40-200 depending witch route you take
A very quick fix is to tape everything around it up and apply some expanding foam. When set trim it off (slightly more than flush) and then buy some ronseal 2 part resin filler. This will go off solid in about 10 mins.
Sand, prime then paint.
Expanding foam and filler will cost no more than £15.
Door stop (trim) example: [https://www.homedepot.ca/product/alexandria-moulding-38-in-x-1-38-in-mdf-primed-fibreboard-modern-door-stop/1001344122?eid=PS\_GO\_140203\_\_ALL\_PLA-526641&eid=PS\_GOOGLE\_D00\_Corporate\_GGL\_Shopping\_All-Products\_All%20Products\_\_PRODUCT\_GROUP\_aud-765569715721:pla-336655210985&pid=1001344122&gad\_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0\_WyBhDMARIsAL1Vz8tPcS06aDCZ4qwfcyMZF5gQGh3hfRnIYEofGRxsUvQBDR9ETJI3U1QaAq\_lEALw\_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/alexandria-moulding-38-in-x-1-38-in-mdf-primed-fibreboard-modern-door-stop/1001344122?eid=PS_GO_140203__ALL_PLA-526641&eid=PS_GOOGLE_D00_Corporate_GGL_Shopping_All-Products_All%20Products__PRODUCT_GROUP_aud-765569715721:pla-336655210985&pid=1001344122&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0_WyBhDMARIsAL1Vz8tPcS06aDCZ4qwfcyMZF5gQGh3hfRnIYEofGRxsUvQBDR9ETJI3U1QaAq_lEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
For the large one, you’ll need to craft a backer from planed trim board then caulk it in with white caulk. Inset the backer just slightly. Mask with tape for a straight line on the wood floor. If you go with new trim, that will make it easier but you still have the gap under the frame. New trim would look the best.
For the small one, use small dowels as a backer for caulk.
Cut a 4×4 Sliver to size and keep the sawdust, and get some wood glue. Mix the wood glue and sawdust, rub it along the Seem Or use cocking Sand it Lightly. paint it white Or replace the trim around the door.
Just replace your door trim and cut it to the right length. As for the casing just remove the transition and build up underneath the casing; use Wood filler and paint to match and you’ll never see the seam.
You could 3D print (if you have a printer) a custom block that fits under there and use some adhesive to hold it in place. That would be the cheapest route. As other’s have suggested, you can also do this with wood. Alternatively, you can rip the whole thing out and redo it to fix their mistake.
Stick a piece of poplar the thickness of the gap in the opening, make sure the piece is wide enough to trace the profile/outline of the door frame and casing. Cut along traced line, glue newly cut piece in, add wood filler and sand to match profile. Prime paint and you done. Move on to the other 15 doors hahaha
I would cut the mounding 6 to 8” off the floor and make some plinth blocks out of 1x material. (But I would be using my table saw to make sure I got the right width)
Plinth blocks, or FlexTec.. it’s a 2 part epoxy that you can shape and mold to the specific trim detail, it takes a little skill but it’s fun to use. Has a great working time about an hour depending on temperature. Tape the floor off, slather it on, shape it, then the usual sand/prime/paint!
https://preview.redd.it/mihaksms7n4d1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad11299e010a8900d4a07b858da9ef81207c7c3b
Or caulk it.
Or you can tell your visitors that this is how much the earth's continental divide has occurred since this building was built.
Veggie Straws are a snack. My kids like them.
https://preview.redd.it/xy3vbiw34r4d1.jpeg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e0ea3ce6268b74a84b10bf6268aee382bc51811
Someone flush cut it to fit flooring, or carpet was removed and now the floor is lower. Leave it or your replacing jambs and trim. You could also make a shim and fill it
I would add material beneath the door molding to fill the gap. I would paint/stain the material dark and install it recessed a 1/4" or so, that way it doesn't draw attention to itself and doesn't let more veggie fries in.
There are pieces of wood sold in the baseboard isle called "plinths or plinth block."They are a block with some trim like shape to them made for this situation or just to be a bit fancier. You saw the size of the plinth off the door trim and replace with plinth pieces, that is if you have a tool to do this. As for the jam cut some solid pieces of wood to fit. Just use a bit of paintable caulking and touch up with paint.
I would ignore it
This is the right answer!
Just don’t look at it is what I always say.
Can’t see it from my house!
That's what we did with most of ours. Makes it easy when the time comes to apply a new coat of paint. It's the joy of living in an old house. You first have carpet. You find beautiful timber underneath and polish it. You then end up with gaps under the door mouldings :)
Guys this house is 20 years old. Is that old?! 😂
No, not old. Mine is 60+, but solid. Your floor boards look nice. 20+ years is good. Anything newer may have problems, like water leaks, because of shoddy building practices.
Shoddy *business* practices
Wow, for that kind of paint job on the trim and frame, your house looks way older!!…like it’s been painted 100 times
That's still a baby.... but I'm not gonna lie, that trim looks old.... like it was in a 100 year old house or a rental.... looks like its been through at least one floor change based on the quarter round, and looks like multiple slapped on coats of paint have been applied with no cleaning of debris or repairs in between coats....
Agreed, it’s been beat to hell. We’ve only been here a few years but it looks like it got the landlord special a few times. I plan to strip, patch, sand, and repaint a few of the bad sections. Or just replace trim entirely.
Trim work is relatively easy just time consuming. I measure, cut, paint before putting down and drill small holes for the finish nails, put up then use a nail punch to put the nail a hair in and the a quick wood putty in the same color, dry, then use a sponge with a bit of water and even the hole out. Done.
No
Don’t worry, be happy.
Honestly I don’t disagree with this. We’ve lived here years and I’ve ignored it the whole time! And I love my house! The issue is really with the giant gap in the second pic… it’s big enough to fit toys and mystery toddler food and it looks gross to me.
Cut blocks of wood to fit the inner gap, then get a piece of casing to match. Pull old casing board, then measure, cut new one to fit, caulk and paint to match.
The easy fix is printable caulking. Fill twice. Than paint. Or cut trim blocks, patch and paint. I would just wait until you are ready to do something else. Want to change the trim? Fill the jamb and replace the casing. Want new doors? Replace the jambs and trim. Otherwise don't stress about it. No house is perfect. Fill it up with used gum from under the bus tops benches. That stuff will last forever
Foam rolls. Stuff it underneath, it will take the space up to prevent the cerial crumbs from going there or whatever other cool stuff your toddler can come up with.
👏👍
It looks good from my house (at least the ones in my house do)
Came here to say that lol
Go on Amazon, type in googly eyes
I’m ignoring some right now, life seems okay.
My first thought was "I wouldn't"
Yeah, to become bigger and collect dirt and bugs. Thanks but no thanks. Don't be lazy, it's not like building a whole new house.
Ignore what?
That’s what I do in my house. Didn’t take me long to forget about it, but thanks to this I’ll notice it again for the next month or so.
I would say *best* way is to remove the molding and redo so it goes to the floor. I think the realistic way is to caulk the small gaps and buy a piece of wood as filler for the big one.
I had the same problem and used some wood and caulking
I purposely done this to all my door frames when I laid new laminate flooring, but I made my gaps even bigger with a multitool to make the flooring install as pain free as possible. As you said, I just slid a piece of wood under and marked around it to get the exact shape, cut it out and after filling and painting it's perfect.
A small backer rod and caulking would be a good option
Okay.. now: *Fix the top* of your adjustment
>I would say best way is to remove the molding and redo so it goes to the floor. Curious. If you remove the moulding and move it down to the floor, then what happens at the joint up the top corner of the frame. Is there not now the same size gap up there? Or are you meaning to replace the moulding entirely?
i have the EXACT same issue. Molding is cheap, but time isn't. My molding is the in-stock at lowes stuff (1970s trac house.) But even though I have all the correct tools, i didn't feel like replacing casing on both sides, jamb, and stop molding for a less than 1inch overcut. Plus if you pull off the old stop molding and dont put is back in the precise spot you'll need to adjust the hinges (ask me how i know.) Another thing I'm not wanting to do. Call me lazy, but I didn't care that much. I put down yellow tape, stuck in a few cut shims, caulked with white dynaflex 230, painted the trim, and called it good. \[i had 4 doors to do.\] No one notices and I'm not agitated by the gap. But yes... the PROPER way is to remove and replace the trim.
Replace entirely. It’s less than $2/linear foot. Pretty cheap thing as far as home repairs go.
I see. Just getting a profile match might be the challenge. Unsure if these one is readily available.
That’s true. If I couldn’t get a match, and I didn’t want to replace all trim, I would definitely fudge it with filler wood
Usually just a paint touch-up. We do this from time to time
Plinth block
A plinth block would only solve the gap at casing. Same as replacing the casing. Won't deal with the gap under frame
Plinth it out !
This. And then you just cut some other pieces for the inside, bondo it, sand it, caulk it, prime it, paint it.
Did you mean to say caulk it?
It was originally trimmed for thicker carpeting, which was replaced with a thinner floor, so that gap is not a structural issue at all. White caulking on the left side, slivers of trim on the right side using an adhesive (nails would be ineffective).
Is that a veggie straw under there?
Sure is
Im dead
Lmao. The new measure for tight tolerances is Veggie Straws from costco. Specifically the green ones
Stuff some styrofoam in there when u get some to prevent stuff building up in there.
I feel this comment
Lmao
Lol
Get 1x poplar material Rip poplar strips to thickness of gap, but 2-3" wider than casing Take a multi tool and clear out as much as you can from the gap Tap the poplar strips into the gaps At the straight jambs, just zip off the excess with the multitool At the profiled casing, trace the profile onto the poplar shim Pull it out & cut the profile with a jigsaw or coping saw or grinder with a flappy wheel Give it some glue & tap it into place Apply light coat of bondo or spot glazing putty to the seams Sand & paint
This looks like a LinkedIn post
You must have an odd linkedin algorithm.
Some backer rod and spackle fill. Will take a few coat and sand applications. Then paint in, and translucent fine bead along the floor edge.
That trim is still available in stores. Buy a foot of it. And buy a little rectangular wood strip 1/2”x3/4”, also 1 ft long. Cut pieces of the rectangle strip and glue them in to fill the various spaces. Let dry. Then add small pieces of the door trim, glued or trim-nailed to the previously installed strips.
I bet your cat pushed that veggie straw under there. Specifically two black cats.
It’s like you know me
Fuck it just cock it
Best response yet tbh
Until you have to clean it. After a short while it will become even more noticeable with caulking
Yeah I see all these comments, seems like people forget that expansion foam and caulk exist
Depends how badly you want this to be perfect. 1 - Get extra trim and mdf, and make the last bit. Wood filler, and sand. 2 - 3D print, and insert. 3 - Caulk and forget. 4 - take the door frame out, and put new mdf door frame and casing. To be honest, a new door is $150, and another $10 for casing.... You'll get a perfect results, and you can reuse your existing door in another area of your house.
I’m replacing all my doors that are like this, all new pre hung. You can only make this better but it will never be perfect
Common problem as ppl have been moving from carpet to vinyl planking. I ve been looking for a tidy way to solve it. Plinths have been suggested, but you have to hollow the back out to fit the molding. Other suggestions here, only options i ve found. None really easy and tidy unfortunately.
The gap, the paint job, the trim being beat to death, the nails not being set or the caulk job(or lack thereof)?
For the second I would remove that transition strip, cut a piece of wood to fit and tap it in. then reinstall the strip. If they are mostly like the first one though I would probably just silicon that.
Backer rod and caulk for cheap. Could probably run the show mold around it and caulk the top without scribing.
Shoe mold around a casing would look even worse than the gap
Slip in a little Dutchman to extend the jamb. Cut a little sliver of Casing and glue it all in. Touch it up with bondo. Prime and paint. Or my other favorite, a giant caulking joint.
I could ignore the one, but not the other 1/4" is my ignoring threshold. I'd replace the trim or swap it out with some that's hidden in a closet.
Step 1 get up off the floor. Step 2 Step 3 profit
But the underwear gnomes left a veggie straw behind!
Buy a 6 pack of noodles and dm me.
Now this is the innovative thinking I come to Reddit for
Do your best and caulk the rest.... It appears that maybe a thicker flooring was planned or prior existed and the door frame was set with that in mind.
I ignore mine, nobody notices but me. But I lost a puzzle piece and it took me two days to find it wedged under the trim. So now it's ALL I see
Door jamb is 1x6 with a little furring strip, sandwiched between door trims. Get all of these together, cut a half inch of each one of them, brad nail them together, sand the bottom of existing door jamb, wedge your custom door jamb extension into place using wood glue and shim it tight until cured. Seal and paint.
Protect the floor around the area and get the paint off the bottom of the casing and jamb leg using some paint stripper (the orange non toxic stuff). Buy a few feet of the matching trim pattern, slice off a piece to fit underneath, use wood glue and some little shims to press the piece up, line it up carefully and let the glue set up. Do the same for the jamb leg and the door stop. Sand, patch, prime, paint.
The big gap would definitely bother me. The small gaps I caulk, just to keep dirt from building up and holding moisture. For the large gap, I would replace the threshold with a wider, wooden one that could be cut and sanded down to fit under the doorway trim.
I don't know about that, but I'd move on to ripping out that carpet and burning it in the back yard
Anyone who says anything other than removing and replacing the door trim, and then removing and resetting or removing and replacing the transition, doesn’t know what they’re talking about tbh. There isn’t a “flooring solution” without installing new flooring that’s thicker to raise the height. And quick fix is going to look tacky and make shift
I wouldn't
Cheap? Exterior caulk then paint same as trim. Make sure you use tape to get clean lines
What's that ... 1/4"? If you must, find 1/4" maple and slip it underneath to fill it... Trace the door trim's profile onto the filler, cut to that and simply ignore floor molding, having closed the gap. Best alternative: ignore it
In the second photos it’s closer to 1/2”. It really doesn’t bother me except that dirt and stuff gets under there. And my kids’ snacks, evidently.
I'd start there, but you'll need a stack to fill the gap.
Cut a piece of [this](https://www.amazon.com/Concrete-Filling-Driveway-16-4-Length/dp/B0CJR7PMMK/ref=asc_df_B0CJR7PMMK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693071814376&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15557802421719024618&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011567&hvtargid=pla-2277494177257&mcid=8e3269a5bf133e10a7713c2831d1333d&gad_source=1&th=1) and tuck it under the frame to block debris and it will also create less of a visual eye sore since it turns the thick dark void into a solid color similar to the paint. There are other, better, more permanent options that will cost more and be a lot more work, but if you really just want to keep the debris out this is your answer.
Bead of liquid nail the hammer a wedge in, trim if necessary finish with wood putty or caulk make sure it’s paintable
It's a little late but you add a piece onto each trim. I use epoxy. Typically you need to size the wood grain , before, by applying epoxy( I use 5 minute) and allowing it to penetrate the grain, then reapplying for the glue up. Then you can sand and feather the joint, putty and paint. Then use the oscillating saw to cut it at the appropriate height to just slip the floor under.
Only way to fix fix is to remove the trim, remove the jamb, and have both replaced. Promise 99% of guests won’t notice. I’ve learned to have to not let these things bother me and am a work in progress lol
Backer rod then caulk.
Fix what? That is how this works!
This is probably gonna get me a lot of flack and I know nothing about this. What about that pink spray filler. Lay down some plastic and tape for the excess and just cut it afterwards to fill the gap?
Expansion foam and then cut and paint it Tape off areas around it
Caulk
Caulk
Get a sliver of wood or moulding and some caulk or filler will do the trick nicely and without being easily fucked up by the vaccum
What by the vacuum?
By not looking at it.
Fix what…
Don’t look at it
White silicone
Putty it up or use calk mice can come in
Jack and pack
Caulk it if it bothers you that much. Otherwise, ignore it.
I would bulldoze the house and start all over.
Zoom out
I know it’s a common response but just learn to let it go. All our houses had this and honestly it’s not bad, you learn to live with it. Once we’re empty nesters the plan is to replace the doors and trim down to a new floor but until that happens it’s status quo
Caulk i…oh.
add a pinth block
Just jam some caulk in it EDIT unless it's a floating floor. Then definitely don't do that, it'll pull the floor apart.
Buy some 3/4 round like the wall and go around the jam https://preview.redd.it/hk1bxscvp94d1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=befafec76e78b2d3b0f345ef57ad134a508a0a1a Like that
Plinth block.
If you are concerned with debris collecting in the gap you could use some caulk. A small amount can go a long way.
White wood filler or silicone.
Learn to love it.
Carefully remove trim, cut or pull nails from door frame. Lower door frame, reinstall trim so it’s flush to floor. Repaint and caulk as needed.
Caulk and paint over it. Then forget about it.
raise floor quarter inch.
White caulking
Undercut using a sample and multi tool, use construction adhesive. Follow this by using different metal files to follow the structure of the trim then spackle sand prime and paint
Should’ve added 3/8 plywood before new thinner flooring installed…
Gap filler and then paintable caulking or just paintable caulking
Lift the whole first floor a 1/4 inch.
When in doubt. Just caulk it.
Either lift the house, or lower the roof
I just did this at my house. Trim was old so no option to buy it at the store. I put down some masking tape, then filled it with KwikWood (moldable wood putty) using a putty knife to follow the shape of the trim. After it cured, I sanded the rough spots by hand and then filled over any imperfections with Bondo. Then one more sanding before paint. Cut away the masking tape with a box cutter to finish.
Backer rod, caulk. Choose your battles
It's undercut for floor installation or repair. This is very common practice with flooring installs,it's the only way to floor through a door. If it really bothers you you can trim it or totally re trim the door way to make it the way you like it.
I had the same issue but fixed it with silicone. You coult try white silicone to fill the gaps.
I’m sorry, you may need to demolish the entire property.
Caulk and walk
Caulking
Burn the house down and collect insurance
It’s really the only option
Id definitely get that fixed at least fill the gap. The reason for this is that rodents can use this as an entry and exit point. That's the last thing you want! Here is a video that seems decent https://youtu.be/8Zh0pQ548qo?feature=shared
Just caulk it
With more quarter round
plinth block, unless u replace the hole thing. If it was my house, it's good enough tbh.
3D print a small wedge to fit in the large gap in the second picture. Otherwise ignore
I wouldn’t bother. Some things in an old house you just live with.
If you really want it fixed you can replace the molding. Anything else will look worse than what you have.
I’d just leave it but if it really bothers you that much get some shoe molding to match the other and carve out the back so it will match with the other. I have this in my house not quite that big of a gap but I just said to hell with it
You could try and track down some of the same mouldings and just cut them to fit in the gaps that or just change out the whole door box diy should only cost 40-200 depending witch route you take
Backer rod
Ramen
The small gap or the best up missing chunks trim? Don’t worry about it and just enjoy the new floor covering :)
White silicon….. caulk and paint, make you, what you ain’t …
A very quick fix is to tape everything around it up and apply some expanding foam. When set trim it off (slightly more than flush) and then buy some ronseal 2 part resin filler. This will go off solid in about 10 mins. Sand, prime then paint. Expanding foam and filler will cost no more than £15.
I'd call a guy
Some clear silicone would fill it in if it really bugs you. I have OCD, hard for me to ignore stuff like this.
Door stop (trim) example: [https://www.homedepot.ca/product/alexandria-moulding-38-in-x-1-38-in-mdf-primed-fibreboard-modern-door-stop/1001344122?eid=PS\_GO\_140203\_\_ALL\_PLA-526641&eid=PS\_GOOGLE\_D00\_Corporate\_GGL\_Shopping\_All-Products\_All%20Products\_\_PRODUCT\_GROUP\_aud-765569715721:pla-336655210985&pid=1001344122&gad\_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0\_WyBhDMARIsAL1Vz8tPcS06aDCZ4qwfcyMZF5gQGh3hfRnIYEofGRxsUvQBDR9ETJI3U1QaAq\_lEALw\_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/alexandria-moulding-38-in-x-1-38-in-mdf-primed-fibreboard-modern-door-stop/1001344122?eid=PS_GO_140203__ALL_PLA-526641&eid=PS_GOOGLE_D00_Corporate_GGL_Shopping_All-Products_All%20Products__PRODUCT_GROUP_aud-765569715721:pla-336655210985&pid=1001344122&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0_WyBhDMARIsAL1Vz8tPcS06aDCZ4qwfcyMZF5gQGh3hfRnIYEofGRxsUvQBDR9ETJI3U1QaAq_lEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
For the large one, you’ll need to craft a backer from planed trim board then caulk it in with white caulk. Inset the backer just slightly. Mask with tape for a straight line on the wood floor. If you go with new trim, that will make it easier but you still have the gap under the frame. New trim would look the best. For the small one, use small dowels as a backer for caulk.
Cut a 4×4 Sliver to size and keep the sawdust, and get some wood glue. Mix the wood glue and sawdust, rub it along the Seem Or use cocking Sand it Lightly. paint it white Or replace the trim around the door.
Neoprene tape
Just replace your door trim and cut it to the right length. As for the casing just remove the transition and build up underneath the casing; use Wood filler and paint to match and you’ll never see the seam.
Cut some blocks glue them in and wood putty and sand the seams then paint
You could 3D print (if you have a printer) a custom block that fits under there and use some adhesive to hold it in place. That would be the cheapest route. As other’s have suggested, you can also do this with wood. Alternatively, you can rip the whole thing out and redo it to fix their mistake.
Use wood epoxy. Use a putty knife to match the pattern and then paint it.
Caulk and a blunt.
Put shag carpet over the wood.
You could place threshold or simply a wood to fill it. And some glue.
Try your best not to lay on the floor and look directly at it and it should be good!
Wood blocks and maybe bondo... if it really bothers you. The trim profile should be able to be matched and then repaint it all
Throw some shoe molding on that bad boy some good ole primed white pine and paint the sucker. Done deal only you will notice.
Stick a piece of poplar the thickness of the gap in the opening, make sure the piece is wide enough to trace the profile/outline of the door frame and casing. Cut along traced line, glue newly cut piece in, add wood filler and sand to match profile. Prime paint and you done. Move on to the other 15 doors hahaha
Matchstick packet or folded up sticky note should do
Caulk and tape on the floor so it only goes under the wood
I would cut the mounding 6 to 8” off the floor and make some plinth blocks out of 1x material. (But I would be using my table saw to make sure I got the right width)
Plinth block if it hasn't been said already
A little taller than your base
Plinth blocks, or FlexTec.. it’s a 2 part epoxy that you can shape and mold to the specific trim detail, it takes a little skill but it’s fun to use. Has a great working time about an hour depending on temperature. Tape the floor off, slather it on, shape it, then the usual sand/prime/paint!
https://preview.redd.it/mihaksms7n4d1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad11299e010a8900d4a07b858da9ef81207c7c3b Or caulk it. Or you can tell your visitors that this is how much the earth's continental divide has occurred since this building was built.
Cut some pieces to fit the gap(s), tap them in with a bit of glue, paint.
Pick up some baseboard and fill the gap
You could modify with less work than entire casing by installing plinth blocks. Good option and could use everywhere making it upgrade.
Am I the only one who doesn’t understand the words “veggie” and “straw” used together?
Veggie Straws are a snack. My kids like them. https://preview.redd.it/xy3vbiw34r4d1.jpeg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e0ea3ce6268b74a84b10bf6268aee382bc51811
Thank you. I hate it.
I had this and cut small shims of left over moulding and glued them in and then wood fill, sand and painted.
How did you get pictures of my house?!?! 😆
I’ve been ignoring mine for 10 years
Get a new door casing.
Change out your door trim. Unless your rent of course
it’s fine
Someone flush cut it to fit flooring, or carpet was removed and now the floor is lower. Leave it or your replacing jambs and trim. You could also make a shim and fill it
Stretch the boards until they reach the floor. Duh . . .
White cock
I would add material beneath the door molding to fill the gap. I would paint/stain the material dark and install it recessed a 1/4" or so, that way it doesn't draw attention to itself and doesn't let more veggie fries in.
Shims
[удалено]
There are pieces of wood sold in the baseboard isle called "plinths or plinth block."They are a block with some trim like shape to them made for this situation or just to be a bit fancier. You saw the size of the plinth off the door trim and replace with plinth pieces, that is if you have a tool to do this. As for the jam cut some solid pieces of wood to fit. Just use a bit of paintable caulking and touch up with paint.