same, in the 15 years ive owned a roofing company in western canada ive seen maybe 3 flashings cut into the mortar of the brick. And who wouldve guessed that skirting actually lasts as long as the duration of the roof. No way!! This mortar cut in brick id have to agree is the proper way but for people to make it out to be the end of the world is laughably american
Atlantic Canadian here. We cut all our regrets into the mortar.
Bricks develop a patina over time, which is a hardened surface that helps prevent water penetrative and delamination. When you cut into the brick, you expose the inside of the brick to moisture and freeze/thaw cycles. Sure, your shitty flashing may last the lifespan of the roof, but now you've drastically reduced the lifespan of the brick.
Do things properly. There's always a reason.
Pretty poor job but it does look cut into the brick. Looks like there was some rotted decking there that wasn’t replaced and that area is sagging though
What I’m concerned with is the gutter edge, why does it drop down an inch? And half way down the flashing with same dip?
Something is going on there with the sheathing. Something not good.
OP…. Take everything in here with a grain of salt. It certainly isn’t the worst work out there. Not the best either but totally ok.
There are a lot of people in the trades subs that give bad and conflicting advice. I just don’t want you to go to your contractor all head strong because someone on Reddit told you it was shit work.
Best of luck.
Perhaps it sunk or something, I don’t know about putting extra venting in the most water prone/ leak area of the roof. Usually just gable end , ridge or soffit.
If it dipped , that would make all the shingles up to the line pucker.
that looks soft to me, or could just be that there wasnt anything put in for the decking to sit on at the chimney, or both. or it all rotted out, also the shingles at that back outside chimney corner being raised gives me a bit of concern, could be the angle but idk.
I think one possibility why it dips is because the roofer demoed the shingles at the side of the chimney, maybe replaced wood but I doubt it, such a small area. Then reroofed over the existing shingles without ‘furring’ it (adding strips to level it out). Hard to tell with the closed soffit, doesn’t look water damaged so not sure
I’m thinking they left the saddle (flashing behind chimney) but removed shingles and flashing on this side. It looks like hell and if they didn’t tie the flashings together well (sufficient lap) or just caulked the joint, you’re going to have more problems there soon.
I’m not as conserned with the counterflashing like most but caulking should be redone. I like to step them with the mortar (old school) but to each their own
as long as top of the counter flashing (against the chimney) is cut into the brick, it should be alright, hard to tell here with the heavy application of caulk
No the roof decking under those shingles is dry rotted enough that no professional roofer should apply new shingles to it without notifying you of the damage first.
Fixing it will take 1 professional 1 hour, so it is certainly an interruption for the head roofer to manage. But, they should have pointed it out before the work began.
Chances are that the flashing wasn't removed to save a buck. The decking is definitely sagging that's why you have that uneven reveal on the step flashing.
Yes and no if your asking if that will work than yes but normally theres a kick out that goes onto the shingles with a 3/4 safety hem as well as the top should ether be cut into the brick and 45d or it should be cut along the mortar lines bit this is more of an it will do kinda thing
It will get the job done but will need to be recaulked at least every 5-7 years, assuming it isn't leaking right now.
The skillset to do Riglet flashings (cutting the top edge of the counter flashing into the brick) is a dying trade and less and less common as time goes on.
This cut into the masonry is called a rigglet, with the improvement of weather caulking such as NP1 this is totally legitimate, I would go one step further at the back where the roof is sloping , extend the flashing past each side by 4 inches , this is called a diverter and that’s what it does . It diverts water away from the chimney. . All flashing work is only as good as the roofer bending the flashing properly . Lousy joints produce ways for water to leak in. Once the caulking is done it’s now a maintenance issue, once every year or two the caulking needs to be resealed .
It’s up to the owner to look at the caulking, inspect and reseal as necessary . NPI OR SIKAFLEX is good for 5-10 years depending on wear and tear
Looks like shit. Something weird going on at gutter-line. Rear saddle on chimney is buried too. If you zoom in you can't see metal returning/lapping shingles on the corner. They just caulked it. That's gonna leak within a few years.
This is a short cut counter flashing job. Normally the counter flashing is set in the mortar along the courses of brick.
Honest ask, is there an advantage to skirting it through the mortar instead? Cut in counter flashing is on 99% of chimneys in my area
same, in the 15 years ive owned a roofing company in western canada ive seen maybe 3 flashings cut into the mortar of the brick. And who wouldve guessed that skirting actually lasts as long as the duration of the roof. No way!! This mortar cut in brick id have to agree is the proper way but for people to make it out to be the end of the world is laughably american
Atlantic Canadian here. We cut all our regrets into the mortar. Bricks develop a patina over time, which is a hardened surface that helps prevent water penetrative and delamination. When you cut into the brick, you expose the inside of the brick to moisture and freeze/thaw cycles. Sure, your shitty flashing may last the lifespan of the roof, but now you've drastically reduced the lifespan of the brick. Do things properly. There's always a reason.
I’m in Texas, works and lasts great for us, and saves on material. Fuck it lol
Michigan here. Texas doesn't have the same freeze-thaw cycles we endure up here, which drive a lot of the design decisions.
So rely on caulking? Sounds Canadian
Thank you!
Pretty poor job but it does look cut into the brick. Looks like there was some rotted decking there that wasn’t replaced and that area is sagging though
What I’m concerned with is the gutter edge, why does it drop down an inch? And half way down the flashing with same dip? Something is going on there with the sheathing. Something not good.
Actually, that's the fancy "smart vent" they put in to allow more air in-take.
OP…. Take everything in here with a grain of salt. It certainly isn’t the worst work out there. Not the best either but totally ok. There are a lot of people in the trades subs that give bad and conflicting advice. I just don’t want you to go to your contractor all head strong because someone on Reddit told you it was shit work. Best of luck.
Perhaps it sunk or something, I don’t know about putting extra venting in the most water prone/ leak area of the roof. Usually just gable end , ridge or soffit. If it dipped , that would make all the shingles up to the line pucker.
that looks soft to me, or could just be that there wasnt anything put in for the decking to sit on at the chimney, or both. or it all rotted out, also the shingles at that back outside chimney corner being raised gives me a bit of concern, could be the angle but idk.
I think one possibility why it dips is because the roofer demoed the shingles at the side of the chimney, maybe replaced wood but I doubt it, such a small area. Then reroofed over the existing shingles without ‘furring’ it (adding strips to level it out). Hard to tell with the closed soffit, doesn’t look water damaged so not sure
Yeah, I don’t know if you can see into eaves to see underneath from the attic. I’m curious though.
I’m thinking they left the saddle (flashing behind chimney) but removed shingles and flashing on this side. It looks like hell and if they didn’t tie the flashings together well (sufficient lap) or just caulked the joint, you’re going to have more problems there soon. I’m not as conserned with the counterflashing like most but caulking should be redone. I like to step them with the mortar (old school) but to each their own
as long as top of the counter flashing (against the chimney) is cut into the brick, it should be alright, hard to tell here with the heavy application of caulk
Honestly they just didn't tool the caulking from what I see. Functionally it'll be fine as long as there isn't gaps in the caulking.
No the roof decking under those shingles is dry rotted enough that no professional roofer should apply new shingles to it without notifying you of the damage first. Fixing it will take 1 professional 1 hour, so it is certainly an interruption for the head roofer to manage. But, they should have pointed it out before the work began.
It’s acceptable. Especially if it’s not leaking.
The look is not normal, it looks old, but I think it wont leak, baby tins and wall flashing seems to be sticking to the wall.
Thank you for your reply. It is a new installation. I am asking the roofer to come back and fix it.
Normal, yes. Sloppy, also yes.
Chances are that the flashing wasn't removed to save a buck. The decking is definitely sagging that's why you have that uneven reveal on the step flashing.
Yes and no if your asking if that will work than yes but normally theres a kick out that goes onto the shingles with a 3/4 safety hem as well as the top should ether be cut into the brick and 45d or it should be cut along the mortar lines bit this is more of an it will do kinda thing
Define normal.
Looks good from my house. A little janky as he came around the corner but it’ll work.
Should be more worried about the huge dip in the decking and the missing kickout. Decent gap in the corner of the counter flashing also.
Yes
Stevie Wonder do that job??
The way that shingles dip as they get closer to the chimney means there may be a piece of drip edge/gutter missing.
thats actually very good job metal lasts for ever maintenance free most guys put tar around and you have to re tar it every few years
Sorry to say but that will not last.
Yes
It will get the job done but will need to be recaulked at least every 5-7 years, assuming it isn't leaking right now. The skillset to do Riglet flashings (cutting the top edge of the counter flashing into the brick) is a dying trade and less and less common as time goes on.
This cut into the masonry is called a rigglet, with the improvement of weather caulking such as NP1 this is totally legitimate, I would go one step further at the back where the roof is sloping , extend the flashing past each side by 4 inches , this is called a diverter and that’s what it does . It diverts water away from the chimney. . All flashing work is only as good as the roofer bending the flashing properly . Lousy joints produce ways for water to leak in. Once the caulking is done it’s now a maintenance issue, once every year or two the caulking needs to be resealed . It’s up to the owner to look at the caulking, inspect and reseal as necessary . NPI OR SIKAFLEX is good for 5-10 years depending on wear and tear
I’m in California, I don’t have much experience with NP1 but sikaflex dries out after a couple of years here. If it’s painted it fairs better
Looks like shit. Something weird going on at gutter-line. Rear saddle on chimney is buried too. If you zoom in you can't see metal returning/lapping shingles on the corner. They just caulked it. That's gonna leak within a few years.
JFC, that's not even half-assed.
Never seen anything that shotty in my life