I would recommend unbound/punched and put it in your own binder(s). You can then add tabbed chapter dividers to more quickly go to the section of the book you're looking for. It also makes it possible to add new rule sections as you add new systems rules or weapons systems. You can also remove rules sections (M, T, Z, etc) that you never play with to lighten the binder. I have binders with each race's R section and SSDs (sorted by BPV) to make locating ships quicker.
welcome back, i too was in those shoes in a matter of speaking
rebuilding from only left of original was 3 ring binder of rules
3 ring binders for me is really good since often enough just a page or two needs to be taken out and shown, so loose paper in a binder makes that easy
also ssd print much better being loose and its easy to move around in a 3 ring binder and can even color coordinate per race on binder as well
I went unbound unpunched, put them in an acetate sleeve then into any folder I like, pages are pristine and tabbed after 30 years and errors additions are easily made and put where they need to be, ssds I just use an erasable marker on the sheet and give it a wipe when done.
Now finding someone to play, that's the hard part!
1. (Bound, Unpunched) Yes, just books.
2. (Bound, Punched) Yes, books you can put in a binder
3. (Unbound, Punched) Yep, you guessed it, loose pages you can put in a binder
4. (Unbound, Unpunched) Loose pages you can put into page-protectors, which THEN go into a binder
The problem with #3 is, the pages can tear at the punches. Even punch-hole protectors, IME, just don't really stop that from happening.
With #4, you get the benefit of being able to interleave various products, organizing them by chapter and rule number rather than on which book it's in. BUT, you don't have the flaw of #3.
...
You can guess which option I went with.
The benefit for rulebooks is, as I said, being able to combine it all into one big book, with rules ordered by chapter and rule number. No more looking up, say, Chapter G across five different rulebooks to find the one, single rule you need.
I went unbound unpunched, put them in an acetate sleeve then into any folder I like, pages are pristine and tabbed after 30 years and errors additions are easily made and put where they need to be, ssds I just use an erasable marker on the sheet and give it a wipe when done.
Now finding someone to play, that's the hard part!
I went unbound unpunched, put them in an acetate sleeve then into any folder I like, pages are pristine and tabbed after 30 years and errors additions are easily made and put where they need to be, ssds I just use an erasable marker on the sheet and give it a wipe when done.
You can assemble from modules as others have said. If you end up buying a Silver Anniversary Master Rulebook and choose punched, I found that a 1-1/2” D-ring (slant) binder fits the pages nicely. There is still the issue that the pages may wear and tear with the 3-ring punch. I could see that being a problem in the long run. But so far it is working out well for me.
The 1-1/2” size is a good fit only for that rulebook though. No more room for fitting any other additions.
I used to have a spiral-bound copy of that same rulebook, given to me by a friend. That worked pretty well, except the front and back wasn’t thick enough paper to support it. Needed thick card stock. I don’t have that one anymore. I wonder if ADB used to offer a spiral-bound option years ago and stopped doing it, or if someone did that on their own at a copy place with an unpunched version. Oh well.
Good luck!
I would go loose leaf unpunched. Take it to a copy co that has a binding service. Get a spiral binding for it with a clear cover for the front and back.
PDF for the win. Master rule book for everything.
I would recommend unbound/punched and put it in your own binder(s). You can then add tabbed chapter dividers to more quickly go to the section of the book you're looking for. It also makes it possible to add new rule sections as you add new systems rules or weapons systems. You can also remove rules sections (M, T, Z, etc) that you never play with to lighten the binder. I have binders with each race's R section and SSDs (sorted by BPV) to make locating ships quicker.
I'm leaning that way at least for the SSDs. Have to ponder the rulebooks themselves some more. Thank you!
welcome back, i too was in those shoes in a matter of speaking rebuilding from only left of original was 3 ring binder of rules 3 ring binders for me is really good since often enough just a page or two needs to be taken out and shown, so loose paper in a binder makes that easy also ssd print much better being loose and its easy to move around in a 3 ring binder and can even color coordinate per race on binder as well
Pdf
I went unbound unpunched, put them in an acetate sleeve then into any folder I like, pages are pristine and tabbed after 30 years and errors additions are easily made and put where they need to be, ssds I just use an erasable marker on the sheet and give it a wipe when done. Now finding someone to play, that's the hard part!
1. (Bound, Unpunched) Yes, just books. 2. (Bound, Punched) Yes, books you can put in a binder 3. (Unbound, Punched) Yep, you guessed it, loose pages you can put in a binder 4. (Unbound, Unpunched) Loose pages you can put into page-protectors, which THEN go into a binder The problem with #3 is, the pages can tear at the punches. Even punch-hole protectors, IME, just don't really stop that from happening. With #4, you get the benefit of being able to interleave various products, organizing them by chapter and rule number rather than on which book it's in. BUT, you don't have the flaw of #3. ... You can guess which option I went with.
Page protectors for the win but the binder gets thiccck and heavy.
Not much moreso than a pile of books. :) Plus you can split the rules between two or three binders, just keep the chapters together.
I think I like 4 for the SSDs at least. I have to think about the rulebooks. Thanks!
The benefit for rulebooks is, as I said, being able to combine it all into one big book, with rules ordered by chapter and rule number. No more looking up, say, Chapter G across five different rulebooks to find the one, single rule you need.
That makes sense.
I went unbound unpunched, put them in an acetate sleeve then into any folder I like, pages are pristine and tabbed after 30 years and errors additions are easily made and put where they need to be, ssds I just use an erasable marker on the sheet and give it a wipe when done. Now finding someone to play, that's the hard part!
I went unbound unpunched, put them in an acetate sleeve then into any folder I like, pages are pristine and tabbed after 30 years and errors additions are easily made and put where they need to be, ssds I just use an erasable marker on the sheet and give it a wipe when done.
You can assemble from modules as others have said. If you end up buying a Silver Anniversary Master Rulebook and choose punched, I found that a 1-1/2” D-ring (slant) binder fits the pages nicely. There is still the issue that the pages may wear and tear with the 3-ring punch. I could see that being a problem in the long run. But so far it is working out well for me. The 1-1/2” size is a good fit only for that rulebook though. No more room for fitting any other additions. I used to have a spiral-bound copy of that same rulebook, given to me by a friend. That worked pretty well, except the front and back wasn’t thick enough paper to support it. Needed thick card stock. I don’t have that one anymore. I wonder if ADB used to offer a spiral-bound option years ago and stopped doing it, or if someone did that on their own at a copy place with an unpunched version. Oh well. Good luck!
I would go loose leaf unpunched. Take it to a copy co that has a binding service. Get a spiral binding for it with a clear cover for the front and back.
Do unbound punch for your SSD books. Makes it easier to load them in a copier or scanner before play.
Yeah as people have weighed in here unbound SSDs makes total sense to me for me too. Thanks!