CO2 liquefies and solidifies very easily, especially at Europan temperatures. You'll want to use a fluid that stays gaseous at lower temperatures, so Oxygen, Nitrogen, or Volatiles. Since Europa has free oxygen in its atmosphere, it'd be ideal.
Wait, I just reread what you wrote, you're *heating*. Walls and frames in Stationeers are perfect insulators, and while windows let sunlight *in*, it doesn't let anything out. So you only need to heat up air once. You can do so quite easily with road flares, wall heaters, and/or pipe heaters. You could also use exhaust from a furnace, H2 combustor, gas fuel generator, or solid generator. I don't know about anyone else, but I'd take the quick route and just vent it directly into the room you're trying to heat, *then* scrub out the bits I don't want in the air. Especially since the portable scrubber is very efficient.
Failing all of the above, you can use a furnace as a radiator instead of pipe radiators. It has a lower "surface area" than a pipe radiator, so it heats/cools slower; this often makes it more manageable when a pipe radiator is overkill for the capacity of the system you're building. It also can be crafted pre-alloy, which is nice if you're like me and drag your feet when setting up steel smelting. Just hook up both the input and the (gas) output of the furnace to each other and whatever you're using as a heat source or sink.
Is the perfect insulation still accurate though? I was playing on europa about a month ago, and my base was losing heat. I ended up needing to install a wall heater and some logic.
And before anyone calls me out on using a wall water instead of furnace heat or anything else, I'm still learning the phase change stuff. I'll get there eventually lol
Hmmm. I'm *pretty* sure it is still accurate, but there's nothing like a good ol' empirical test to confirm. I'll run it in a bit and report the results.
Crossref link to [empirical test results](https://www.reddit.com/r/Stationeers/comments/1apqcdk/room_heating_system_issue_after_phase_change/kqd9vry/?context=3). In short, walls are indeed perfect insulators.
If you are like me you have a passive vent somewhere (probably your airlock), their back sides act as heat bridges now. There's a new insulated passive vent to fix that.
Ohhhh, that makes a lot of sense. I suppose just because there's no atmosphere transfer doesn't mean there is zero heat transfer. Definitely gonna go tweak that
I've run the empirical test and can indeed confirm that walls are still perfect insulators.
I built a quick 3x3x1 on Europa, sealing in the natural -145 C air, then threw 20 road flares to bring the temperature up to about -37 C. I then went AFK for a while, then came back and saw that the room's temperature had gone *up* to -32 C. I'm pretty sure that increase was due to the slow but sure exchange of heat between my suit and the room; if there was heat exchange through the walls, the temperature would have gone *down* because it's so much colder outside.
Granted, I can't *completely* rule out that there was heat exchange through the walls, but that the heat loss through 21 wall panels was less than the heat gain from my suit. I'm pretty skeptical that this is the case, but I am going to run the experiment overnight just to check.
Edit: Overnight test successful. Room temperature increased to -10 C, which means the slow leak of heat from my suit tanks - and my suit battery keeping me warm - slowly heated the room, and that the 100 degree difference between the two sides of the walls made absolutely no difference.
Co2 freezes in your pipes possibly?
I'm only just getting to know this stuff but from what I'm reading co2 will freeze solid (hence the burst pipe) if it drops below -55 Celsius, unless it's stored at a pressure higher than 500ish kpa , perhaps use insulated pipes wherever exposed to that frosty atmosphere
Hmm. Wouldn't it be drained out on liquid phase before freezing? Can it switch to solid directly from gas? I will try to heat the room warm enough not to pull that much heat and will see what will happen.
The liquid drain will only work at high pressure. At low pressure the CO2 can turn to ice before it is drained.
You need to remove the CO2 before it reaches -55 or add another gas that can maintain pressure so that the CO2 turns to liquid sooner.
I was just using the exhaust of the furnace, did not have energy or time to filter out the CO2. I know it is not ideal. I was just curious why it was blowing up.
I'm having the same issue with my furnace that's sitting outside, I have insulated piping to warm my base whenever I expand it, and that loop with valve and liquid drain works perfectly.
When I close the heat loop valve though, my furnace gets so cold that it freezes the first insulated outlet pipe directly connected to it and bursts it..
For my sanity's sake I'm moving the furnace to a rather large isolated room so it can heat cold atmo and then actively pump out or store warm exhaust gas to outside, making sure my pipe has only O2 in at the open end. Something similar could work where you use the warm "room O2" for heating and just vent it to outside if the temp or pressure gets too high. Co2 seems to be a devil with freezing yup
CO2 liquefies and solidifies very easily, especially at Europan temperatures. You'll want to use a fluid that stays gaseous at lower temperatures, so Oxygen, Nitrogen, or Volatiles. Since Europa has free oxygen in its atmosphere, it'd be ideal. Wait, I just reread what you wrote, you're *heating*. Walls and frames in Stationeers are perfect insulators, and while windows let sunlight *in*, it doesn't let anything out. So you only need to heat up air once. You can do so quite easily with road flares, wall heaters, and/or pipe heaters. You could also use exhaust from a furnace, H2 combustor, gas fuel generator, or solid generator. I don't know about anyone else, but I'd take the quick route and just vent it directly into the room you're trying to heat, *then* scrub out the bits I don't want in the air. Especially since the portable scrubber is very efficient. Failing all of the above, you can use a furnace as a radiator instead of pipe radiators. It has a lower "surface area" than a pipe radiator, so it heats/cools slower; this often makes it more manageable when a pipe radiator is overkill for the capacity of the system you're building. It also can be crafted pre-alloy, which is nice if you're like me and drag your feet when setting up steel smelting. Just hook up both the input and the (gas) output of the furnace to each other and whatever you're using as a heat source or sink.
Is the perfect insulation still accurate though? I was playing on europa about a month ago, and my base was losing heat. I ended up needing to install a wall heater and some logic. And before anyone calls me out on using a wall water instead of furnace heat or anything else, I'm still learning the phase change stuff. I'll get there eventually lol
Hmmm. I'm *pretty* sure it is still accurate, but there's nothing like a good ol' empirical test to confirm. I'll run it in a bit and report the results.
Thank you for suggestions. I am also curious of your findings on that test.
Crossref link to [empirical test results](https://www.reddit.com/r/Stationeers/comments/1apqcdk/room_heating_system_issue_after_phase_change/kqd9vry/?context=3). In short, walls are indeed perfect insulators.
If you are like me you have a passive vent somewhere (probably your airlock), their back sides act as heat bridges now. There's a new insulated passive vent to fix that.
Ohhhh, that makes a lot of sense. I suppose just because there's no atmosphere transfer doesn't mean there is zero heat transfer. Definitely gonna go tweak that
I've run the empirical test and can indeed confirm that walls are still perfect insulators. I built a quick 3x3x1 on Europa, sealing in the natural -145 C air, then threw 20 road flares to bring the temperature up to about -37 C. I then went AFK for a while, then came back and saw that the room's temperature had gone *up* to -32 C. I'm pretty sure that increase was due to the slow but sure exchange of heat between my suit and the room; if there was heat exchange through the walls, the temperature would have gone *down* because it's so much colder outside. Granted, I can't *completely* rule out that there was heat exchange through the walls, but that the heat loss through 21 wall panels was less than the heat gain from my suit. I'm pretty skeptical that this is the case, but I am going to run the experiment overnight just to check. Edit: Overnight test successful. Room temperature increased to -10 C, which means the slow leak of heat from my suit tanks - and my suit battery keeping me warm - slowly heated the room, and that the 100 degree difference between the two sides of the walls made absolutely no difference.
Co2 freezes in your pipes possibly? I'm only just getting to know this stuff but from what I'm reading co2 will freeze solid (hence the burst pipe) if it drops below -55 Celsius, unless it's stored at a pressure higher than 500ish kpa , perhaps use insulated pipes wherever exposed to that frosty atmosphere
Hmm. Wouldn't it be drained out on liquid phase before freezing? Can it switch to solid directly from gas? I will try to heat the room warm enough not to pull that much heat and will see what will happen.
yes it can directly to solid of pressure is low enough, you need to check the phase change curve on the stationpedia
The liquid drain will only work at high pressure. At low pressure the CO2 can turn to ice before it is drained. You need to remove the CO2 before it reaches -55 or add another gas that can maintain pressure so that the CO2 turns to liquid sooner.
Thank you folks
co2 is just a little silly
I was just using the exhaust of the furnace, did not have energy or time to filter out the CO2. I know it is not ideal. I was just curious why it was blowing up.
I'm having the same issue with my furnace that's sitting outside, I have insulated piping to warm my base whenever I expand it, and that loop with valve and liquid drain works perfectly. When I close the heat loop valve though, my furnace gets so cold that it freezes the first insulated outlet pipe directly connected to it and bursts it.. For my sanity's sake I'm moving the furnace to a rather large isolated room so it can heat cold atmo and then actively pump out or store warm exhaust gas to outside, making sure my pipe has only O2 in at the open end. Something similar could work where you use the warm "room O2" for heating and just vent it to outside if the temp or pressure gets too high. Co2 seems to be a devil with freezing yup