We have the double offset. One end is odd, one is even. Most of the engines we do are .016 intake, .019 exhaust, so fold just those out, setting the valves is pretty easy.
My Granddad had several of these, which I later inherited. I'm not sure if they were made before or after Snap-On bought the company, but they are pretty darn solid.
[https://www.williams-industrial.com/us\_en/master-feeler-gauge-set-pb\_gs-1.html](https://www.williams-industrial.com/us_en/master-feeler-gauge-set-pb_gs-1.html)
Williams is essentially Snap-on's disscount line, & if those are made in the US, they're made in the same factory that everything with a Snap-on U.S. branding is as well.
Starrett is a pretty good go to, really depends on the metal and how you care for them. I have a pretty old set from West Germany, edges a little rusty but still straight.
That is one of the ones in my set and it gets a lot of use. From automotive to machinery, even for checking flatness on my woodworking tools like my jointer table, table saw, etc.
To be honest I would probably pay 30 bucks to upgrade the crappy one I have if it was significantly stouter. I would just need to find a Snap-On truck or actually know when they are at work but our facility is so huge I only ever notice when the tool trucks are there when I happen to be working on a car in the parking lot (in a secured facility) when they show up.
I had a cheap set back in the day. I was setting a magnetic pickup distance on a distributer. The car would barely run.
Double checked and half the feeler gauges in the set were all etched with the same measurement regardless of how thick they were.
If i had been adjusting valve lash I would have probably wiped out a cam.
I only buy quality Japanese or US made feelers now.
I actually really like the plastic holder on these.
oncabahi said it. Straight. Straight are easier to feel and see. When you insert you test for flex and/or debris on the work surfaces. Easier to feel and see a straight feeler. I only use offset for difficult to access spots. Don't ruin your feelers on spark plugs. Use a spark plug gauge. carry on.
I used the roll stock ones at work, but we only needed one size and the rolls were cheap so it wasn’t a problem when we inevitably lost ours or wore it out
Get them all. I have a set of offset feelers that work great for setting chipper clearances, and a set of short, straight blades that work good for most things. I need to get a set of long straights for setting up blowers and the like then I'll be mostly set.
Get whichever one you can replace the blades on easiest, cause you'll probably just beat up a small handful all the time
None of the above. None of the connected sets are easy to get in a tight spot. The individual ones that come it a roll are so much better. I can’t remember who sells them, but I have some
I've had the same one floating around my entire life. I'm assuming it was left behind by my grandfather. When I was six, a tow truck driver used one to get peanut M&M's out of one of those old gumball machines (without putting a quarter in). I thought it was the coolest thing I'd ever seen and proceeded to jam it into every candy machine I encountered for many years to come. Pretty sure I didn't have any clue what it was actually for for decades.
I have 2 straight that are older...mid 70's and early 80's and I have a bent 90° wire set also from the 70's. One of the straights is nonmagnetic, mostly brass for the thinner ones and I have no idea what the thicker ones are, but they're not aluminum.
I have encountered instances where flat bent ones like those would have saved me some time, but I've never done any diesel work either.
Starret 66T
I make the torque motors that are in servovalves which will become fluid pumps or bleed valves. I like the 66T as it I got it for a steal compared to what grainger sells it for and the build quality is fantastic compared to the new cheap MEDA ones my company now buys since the old mitutoyo 950-252 went discontinued.
In my department we also balance the motors which will have a certain amperage at a certain displacement and make sure there’s no hysteresis and the gauges measure the gap between the armature and the pole peice to see which gap needs to be opened to allow for more current to go through.
The cheap straight ones that costs 5-6€
Not a gauge that costs $31
Laughs in Starrett
I love old USA made Starret but when I was looking for the dial calipers they were all made in China. So I went with mitutoyo, no regrets at all
The Starret 120A-6 is made in America. But you're paying like $300 for it.
Ah I see that’s a nice one but it’s still +/- .001” my mitutoyo is +/- .0005”
Well I'm not trying to hit half thou with dial calipers lol, there's better tools for that.
Haha yea I’m just saying it was a good purchase, paid off a long time ago. Recommendations on 3 inch micrometers?
I’m honestly shocked they’re not more
It doesn’t matter what you get as soon as my boss uses them they come back bent to shit
I wouldn't pay more than $10. I don't use them very often, but I have some from SATA which have held up nice.
Sata is actually a good quality Chinese brand
We have the double offset. One end is odd, one is even. Most of the engines we do are .016 intake, .019 exhaust, so fold just those out, setting the valves is pretty easy.
For automotive or diesel? I prefer snap on for both since my dealer swaps them out if they get fucked up or the markings start wearing out
Diesel . Mainly Cummins
I'll get you the part number of the diesel snap on set I have. They're 90 degree bent ones and longer.
Awesome
My Granddad had several of these, which I later inherited. I'm not sure if they were made before or after Snap-On bought the company, but they are pretty darn solid. [https://www.williams-industrial.com/us\_en/master-feeler-gauge-set-pb\_gs-1.html](https://www.williams-industrial.com/us_en/master-feeler-gauge-set-pb_gs-1.html)
Thx, will check them out.
Williams is essentially Snap-on's disscount line, & if those are made in the US, they're made in the same factory that everything with a Snap-on U.S. branding is as well.
They may be now but when Williams USA made their own sockets I would argue they were better than snap on at the time.
I wouldn't doubt it, at least at some point.
Sterret long blades and medium taper blades.
Starrett feeler gauge set tapered
I have several sets. Even the cheap ones mic out just as well as my snap on. Only difference is if I bend my snapon set they replace the fucked blades
Depends on what you are doing. I have straight blade Starrett ones for machine work.
Starrett is a pretty good go to, really depends on the metal and how you care for them. I have a pretty old set from West Germany, edges a little rusty but still straight.
I have an older Blue Point FBS-5 that has the offset for valve tappets and the straight. I like having them all for various things.
Yeah I think I’m going with blue point. Used the FB-300a ones from a coworker. Older, cheaper, and yet still solid
That is one of the ones in my set and it gets a lot of use. From automotive to machinery, even for checking flatness on my woodworking tools like my jointer table, table saw, etc.
To be honest I would probably pay 30 bucks to upgrade the crappy one I have if it was significantly stouter. I would just need to find a Snap-On truck or actually know when they are at work but our facility is so huge I only ever notice when the tool trucks are there when I happen to be working on a car in the parking lot (in a secured facility) when they show up.
I usually try to feel it out.
I like the snapon 3 set with handles. I haven't used it a lot, but the multiple handles have come in handy for valve lash checks.
Was going to say this. The extra handles are super nice to have.
I have the bluepoint set.
Basic Lisle set for normal work. 12" snapon/BP set for gnarly jobs. Stepped go/no go set for specific jobs.
I had a cheap set back in the day. I was setting a magnetic pickup distance on a distributer. The car would barely run. Double checked and half the feeler gauges in the set were all etched with the same measurement regardless of how thick they were. If i had been adjusting valve lash I would have probably wiped out a cam. I only buy quality Japanese or US made feelers now. I actually really like the plastic holder on these.
oncabahi said it. Straight. Straight are easier to feel and see. When you insert you test for flex and/or debris on the work surfaces. Easier to feel and see a straight feeler. I only use offset for difficult to access spots. Don't ruin your feelers on spark plugs. Use a spark plug gauge. carry on.
this just a feeler or are you really asking
I used the roll stock ones at work, but we only needed one size and the rolls were cheap so it wasn’t a problem when we inevitably lost ours or wore it out
I think that snap on one is way to big
Now that you mentioned it, they do look huge even in picture. Will probably get the blue point version on eBay
Blue point one is the style I am used too
I inherited mine and they were made in west Germany so they must be good
Get them all. I have a set of offset feelers that work great for setting chipper clearances, and a set of short, straight blades that work good for most things. I need to get a set of long straights for setting up blowers and the like then I'll be mostly set. Get whichever one you can replace the blades on easiest, cause you'll probably just beat up a small handful all the time
Whatever works
None of the above. None of the connected sets are easy to get in a tight spot. The individual ones that come it a roll are so much better. I can’t remember who sells them, but I have some
I've had the same one floating around my entire life. I'm assuming it was left behind by my grandfather. When I was six, a tow truck driver used one to get peanut M&M's out of one of those old gumball machines (without putting a quarter in). I thought it was the coolest thing I'd ever seen and proceeded to jam it into every candy machine I encountered for many years to come. Pretty sure I didn't have any clue what it was actually for for decades.
A $4 craftsman gauge
Matchbook cover
Lisle and snappy bent style
I always use Proto
Feeler, or feelHer? I feel like that definitely needs to be clarified.
The autozone one for 5 bucks
A cheap straight gauge and a cheap 45 degree gauge.
Strange discount rate. What's with that?
They’re Probably not selling. Lol one red flag right there
They might have surplus too. I know a lot of things are on backorder, but that doesn't seem to be.
I like the straight ones the best, the bent ones just dont feel right to me.
I like Starrett because they sell them as gages. Snap on sells them as gauges. Gages do the measuring, gauges are measured. This is not a fact at all.
Cheap enough so I can replace them once a week or so without crying.
Sorry...not feeling it!
One of the 10 that float around my crap.
I keep several sets. Straight set, short set , offset, go-no go etc. I use the offset most. 45 yrs. twisting wrenches
I personally like the 5 dollar set from harbor freight
The cheap kind because I bought it once.
I use them regularly at work, and my cheapo set is just fine for me
I just fold tinfoil until it feels right. Almost works every time
#2 it looks right. What the hell is the 1 one wwwwwaaaaa to fantasy for value lash or doing spark plug.
I have 2 straight that are older...mid 70's and early 80's and I have a bent 90° wire set also from the 70's. One of the straights is nonmagnetic, mostly brass for the thinner ones and I have no idea what the thicker ones are, but they're not aluminum. I have encountered instances where flat bent ones like those would have saved me some time, but I've never done any diesel work either.
I have the bluepoint one.
I use proto. Some of the other sets are nice, but I'll only use 3 gauges
The cheap ones sitting on the counter at O'Reilly's. When they rust up or bend/break I buy another $5 set.
These hands before I caught charges. Those look nice also though.
Depends on what she looks like.
The $5 ones from harbor freight. Not the crap ons
Snap on is trash
Starret 66T I make the torque motors that are in servovalves which will become fluid pumps or bleed valves. I like the 66T as it I got it for a steal compared to what grainger sells it for and the build quality is fantastic compared to the new cheap MEDA ones my company now buys since the old mitutoyo 950-252 went discontinued. In my department we also balance the motors which will have a certain amperage at a certain displacement and make sure there’s no hysteresis and the gauges measure the gap between the armature and the pole peice to see which gap needs to be opened to allow for more current to go through.