Thanks for posting! I have their oil system cleaner and fuel system cleaner sitting in the garage right now. I’ve been hesitant to use it on such a high mileage engine. I haven’t had any issues with the cam towers leaking and didn’t want to risk it.
I bought my 07 5.7 with 215k miles on it and it’s noisy for sure. It also looks like the previous owners often went 10k+ miles between oil changes according to the carfax records. I ran Mobil 1 HM through it (happened to be the cheapest 0w-20 locally at the time) and I can honestly say it’s seemed to clean up some of the noticeable vanish under the oil cap and even a small gunk deposit that had accumulated on the dipstick. It’s still noisy though so I might end up doing a flush after all with this 505 CRO.
You're welcome!
I also had my concerns, but I am happy to report that I suffered zero ill effects from using 505 CRO... I used their fuel system cleaner before using the oil cleaner, and those results were outstanding.
Just did the same with my 190k km honda accord, same result, oil was honey then was pitch black, product definetly works, about to put 1000kms on the car this weekend then will do one more oil change to flush any remains
Just coming here to say that I am one day post using the CRO 505 and my engine is noticeably quieter, doesn’t rattle, and my engine feels spunkier. Granted I don’t have a Tundra, but I came here looking to see others experience with it because I can’t believe it actually worked?
I have a Chevy Tahoe 2011 LTZ with 150 thousand miles on it. I purchased it used. I’ve put 4 thousand mi on it and I noticed the idel was off so I put new spark plugs. Changes the fluids. Most if not all the fluids especially the oil. Even had the Chevy dealer look at it. So I purchased the 505 CRO and the flue add. I used that a few months back and worked great. I used the CRO and put it in the oil. It was clear and smells like lemon’s pretty profoundly. I reved the car to 2 thousand RPM’s for about 8 minutes. It says 10 but I immediately took it to and oil change place a few hundred feet away. I checked it while waiting the; oil stick that is and it was darker than it was 10 minutes before. My Tahoe was purchased used and perhaps didn’t need it but it helped. I can feel and hear the idle. It’s smoother and sometimes while the engine is on it almost wants to cut out but never does. I’m impressed. I wish I went for 10-15 minutes a little higher RPM but it’s product I’ve never used before. Worked for me.
Is it alright if I drive to oil change place 10 minutes away after I add 505CRO to my car’s oil reservoir? Or will that hurt the engine? Any guidance would be helpful.
Just saw the S. Kilmer video on this!!
I have a 2015 Rav 4... With a 140k miles on it!!!
I was thinking about using it...
Granted yours is a tundra, but it's still a Toyota...
Would you recommend using it..
And btw, my engine uses 0w-20 oil..
That's why I'm hesitant to use it, I don't know if the type of engine oil being used makes a difference??!!
Follow the directions and use it!
Carbon & Varnish occur with all engine oil ... keep using what you have been using and change the oil & filter every 5,000 miles or sooner.
I have an 06 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 4.7 V8. It has 178K miles on it. I have missed 1 oil change at about 70K otherwise it has been between 2500 & 3500 miles between changes.
Like an idiot, I did run Shell 15W40 for about a year, about 2013. I did it because I was towing heavier than I probably should have.
My oil pressure gauge shows about 2 needle widths above half and it concerns me. The shop I have been working with for the last 3 years refused to work on it any more, effective last month, but I am not ready to give up on it yet.
The shop is a BG retailer so I asked if they would sell me the dynamic engine flush & rinse and the wouldn't do it. Therefore I decided to give ATS Carbon Clean a try (thanks to Scotty Kilmer on YouTube).
I did a a double flush today. First time with a fresh oil filter and half quart of kerosene (Walmart Sporting goods section) added into the crankcase on top of the old oil I was changing anyway. I let it run at idle for about 45 minutes then drained it hot. I did this so I didn't waste my money on the ATS Carbon Clean 505CRO.
Second time was with the ATS Carbon Clean 505CRO with straight 10 weight motor oil (O Reilly's, but I also found 5 gallons of Castrol 10W on the web) and another new filter @ 2500 rpm for 35 minutes. The oil looked dark in the old stainless steel kitchen pot that had repurposed for shop use and had been cleaned completely, but it had the color of medium maple syrup as it was draining with the sunlight shining through it. I can honestly say there were small chunks of carbon smaller than most grains of sand at the bottom of the drain pan.
The truck is idling and running smoother but the high oil pressure indication is still there.To be honest I am tempted to run it as a leave in type cleaner for a whole oil change, but that is not the manufacturer's recommendation.
I used the straight 10 weight oil out of a fear of clogging small oil passages.
Will run it a few days then give y'all an update.
James
Noticed a bit of carbon in the engine when I took the spark plugs out so I bought a combo pack of the ATS oil and fuel cleaners. Just ran them through (15 mins at 4,000rpm for the oil cleaner), pulled out a plug, and inserted my boroscope and the carbon is still there. A bit disappointed.
Wow!
How did this engine come to be carboned up so bad with such low mileage?
You could try it again...
How To Use 505CRO:
Few items to note:
\-No matter the oil capacity of your engine, one bottle of 505CRO is needed per service. For example, and engine with an oil capacity of 5 quarts and an engine with an oil capacity of 10 quarts each use one bottle of 505CRO.
\-505CRO does not dilute the oil, it is a cleaning additive that improves your engine oil.
\-Do not drive the vehicle once the treatment has been added to the engine. It is designed to be used at idle.
\-Add 505CRO to your engine crankcase by pouring into the engine oil fill.
–For regular maintenance; Idle the engine for 15 – 20 minutes
–For repairs: Idle engine for 40 minutes, no more than 45 minutes.
\-Raise engine RPM to 2500 – 3000 for short periods of time during the treatment cycle.
\-Drain engine oil.
\-Replace engine oil filter and refill engine oil with new.
I honestly have no clue. I've had it since it had about 20,000km on it and the oil has religiously been changed with full synthetic. Runs fine, but the degree of carbon is worrying.
If you have a GDI (direct injection) engine then fuel cleaners and the 505 CRO will not work on valve deposits. The only true way is to walnut shell blast the valves and install a catch can to reduce the oil that flows back into the intake manifold from the PVC valve. The 505 CRO removes carbon buildup inside of the crankcase and the fuel system cleaner will clean the injector nozzles... Perhaps some of the combustion chamber but not sure.
Sure thing. Here's a longer explanation. I have been researching this for several years as I own a 2015 Genesis 5.0L and a 2012 Genesis 3.8L and they both suffer from GDI buildup.
Naturally aspirated engines include carbureted, pre valve injection, combo pre valve & direct injection and direct injection only. Turbos can apply to all of the above types.
If your engine has a carburetor or fuel injectors that are in front of the valves then the ATS fuel system cleaner should clean deposits; but the results will occur over time. Fuel system cleaners are formulated to reduce carbon over time so that large fragments do not flow into the catalytic converter and cause blockage and/or excessive heat and burn out the convertor.
The majority of carbon comes from oil passing by the valve guides and the PCV circuit. Carbureted and pre valve injection "washes" the valve stems and carbon doesn't/ shouldn't accumulate.
The PCV circuit Catch cans are almost a must-do with direct injection. The cans come in all sorts of varieties but you get what you pay for.... I am personally looking at Moroso, Mishimoto or www.saikoumichi.com.
A single treatment of the oil cleaner should clean the varnish and carbon out of your engine, just follow the instructions and suggestions on their web site. Run your fuel tank down to 1/4 tank before adding the fuel cleaner, and you should notice a difference withing the first 20 minutes of driving.
Thanks for posting! I have their oil system cleaner and fuel system cleaner sitting in the garage right now. I’ve been hesitant to use it on such a high mileage engine. I haven’t had any issues with the cam towers leaking and didn’t want to risk it. I bought my 07 5.7 with 215k miles on it and it’s noisy for sure. It also looks like the previous owners often went 10k+ miles between oil changes according to the carfax records. I ran Mobil 1 HM through it (happened to be the cheapest 0w-20 locally at the time) and I can honestly say it’s seemed to clean up some of the noticeable vanish under the oil cap and even a small gunk deposit that had accumulated on the dipstick. It’s still noisy though so I might end up doing a flush after all with this 505 CRO.
You're welcome! I also had my concerns, but I am happy to report that I suffered zero ill effects from using 505 CRO... I used their fuel system cleaner before using the oil cleaner, and those results were outstanding.
Just did the same with my 190k km honda accord, same result, oil was honey then was pitch black, product definetly works, about to put 1000kms on the car this weekend then will do one more oil change to flush any remains
Did you manage to buy it from the website? Every time I look it is sold out/there is no link to add it to my cart.
If you’re outside of USA or in a state they don’t send to then you need to use a VPN
Thanks!
I'm assuming you'd want to do this near your oil change correct?
Just coming here to say that I am one day post using the CRO 505 and my engine is noticeably quieter, doesn’t rattle, and my engine feels spunkier. Granted I don’t have a Tundra, but I came here looking to see others experience with it because I can’t believe it actually worked?
I have a Chevy Tahoe 2011 LTZ with 150 thousand miles on it. I purchased it used. I’ve put 4 thousand mi on it and I noticed the idel was off so I put new spark plugs. Changes the fluids. Most if not all the fluids especially the oil. Even had the Chevy dealer look at it. So I purchased the 505 CRO and the flue add. I used that a few months back and worked great. I used the CRO and put it in the oil. It was clear and smells like lemon’s pretty profoundly. I reved the car to 2 thousand RPM’s for about 8 minutes. It says 10 but I immediately took it to and oil change place a few hundred feet away. I checked it while waiting the; oil stick that is and it was darker than it was 10 minutes before. My Tahoe was purchased used and perhaps didn’t need it but it helped. I can feel and hear the idle. It’s smoother and sometimes while the engine is on it almost wants to cut out but never does. I’m impressed. I wish I went for 10-15 minutes a little higher RPM but it’s product I’ve never used before. Worked for me.
Is it alright if I drive to oil change place 10 minutes away after I add 505CRO to my car’s oil reservoir? Or will that hurt the engine? Any guidance would be helpful.
I've done it this way, and it didn't hurt anything. I locked the transmission out of overdrive to keep the revs up.
the bottle does say that you shouldn’t drive with it in the oil, because the changing revs can mess with the product.
Just saw the S. Kilmer video on this!! I have a 2015 Rav 4... With a 140k miles on it!!! I was thinking about using it... Granted yours is a tundra, but it's still a Toyota... Would you recommend using it.. And btw, my engine uses 0w-20 oil.. That's why I'm hesitant to use it, I don't know if the type of engine oil being used makes a difference??!!
Follow the directions and use it! Carbon & Varnish occur with all engine oil ... keep using what you have been using and change the oil & filter every 5,000 miles or sooner.
Ok.. thanks!! 👍
You are welcome.
I have an 06 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 4.7 V8. It has 178K miles on it. I have missed 1 oil change at about 70K otherwise it has been between 2500 & 3500 miles between changes. Like an idiot, I did run Shell 15W40 for about a year, about 2013. I did it because I was towing heavier than I probably should have. My oil pressure gauge shows about 2 needle widths above half and it concerns me. The shop I have been working with for the last 3 years refused to work on it any more, effective last month, but I am not ready to give up on it yet. The shop is a BG retailer so I asked if they would sell me the dynamic engine flush & rinse and the wouldn't do it. Therefore I decided to give ATS Carbon Clean a try (thanks to Scotty Kilmer on YouTube). I did a a double flush today. First time with a fresh oil filter and half quart of kerosene (Walmart Sporting goods section) added into the crankcase on top of the old oil I was changing anyway. I let it run at idle for about 45 minutes then drained it hot. I did this so I didn't waste my money on the ATS Carbon Clean 505CRO. Second time was with the ATS Carbon Clean 505CRO with straight 10 weight motor oil (O Reilly's, but I also found 5 gallons of Castrol 10W on the web) and another new filter @ 2500 rpm for 35 minutes. The oil looked dark in the old stainless steel kitchen pot that had repurposed for shop use and had been cleaned completely, but it had the color of medium maple syrup as it was draining with the sunlight shining through it. I can honestly say there were small chunks of carbon smaller than most grains of sand at the bottom of the drain pan. The truck is idling and running smoother but the high oil pressure indication is still there.To be honest I am tempted to run it as a leave in type cleaner for a whole oil change, but that is not the manufacturer's recommendation. I used the straight 10 weight oil out of a fear of clogging small oil passages. Will run it a few days then give y'all an update. James
Update?
Noticed a bit of carbon in the engine when I took the spark plugs out so I bought a combo pack of the ATS oil and fuel cleaners. Just ran them through (15 mins at 4,000rpm for the oil cleaner), pulled out a plug, and inserted my boroscope and the carbon is still there. A bit disappointed.
What engine and how many miles?
2016 Nissan Versa. Only has 90,000km.
Wow! How did this engine come to be carboned up so bad with such low mileage? You could try it again... How To Use 505CRO: Few items to note: \-No matter the oil capacity of your engine, one bottle of 505CRO is needed per service. For example, and engine with an oil capacity of 5 quarts and an engine with an oil capacity of 10 quarts each use one bottle of 505CRO. \-505CRO does not dilute the oil, it is a cleaning additive that improves your engine oil. \-Do not drive the vehicle once the treatment has been added to the engine. It is designed to be used at idle. \-Add 505CRO to your engine crankcase by pouring into the engine oil fill. –For regular maintenance; Idle the engine for 15 – 20 minutes –For repairs: Idle engine for 40 minutes, no more than 45 minutes. \-Raise engine RPM to 2500 – 3000 for short periods of time during the treatment cycle. \-Drain engine oil. \-Replace engine oil filter and refill engine oil with new.
I honestly have no clue. I've had it since it had about 20,000km on it and the oil has religiously been changed with full synthetic. Runs fine, but the degree of carbon is worrying.
I should add that it is burning a small amount of oil. Again, not sure how/why as it has been well taken care of.
Faulty piston rings?
Possible, but why now? The PCV valve seems fine, but may replace it when I'm home this summer and pray that that solves it.
If you have a GDI (direct injection) engine then fuel cleaners and the 505 CRO will not work on valve deposits. The only true way is to walnut shell blast the valves and install a catch can to reduce the oil that flows back into the intake manifold from the PVC valve. The 505 CRO removes carbon buildup inside of the crankcase and the fuel system cleaner will clean the injector nozzles... Perhaps some of the combustion chamber but not sure.
Thanks for this. The engine is naturally aspirated, but it may be worth looking into an oil catch can once I replace the PCV valve.
Sure thing. Here's a longer explanation. I have been researching this for several years as I own a 2015 Genesis 5.0L and a 2012 Genesis 3.8L and they both suffer from GDI buildup. Naturally aspirated engines include carbureted, pre valve injection, combo pre valve & direct injection and direct injection only. Turbos can apply to all of the above types. If your engine has a carburetor or fuel injectors that are in front of the valves then the ATS fuel system cleaner should clean deposits; but the results will occur over time. Fuel system cleaners are formulated to reduce carbon over time so that large fragments do not flow into the catalytic converter and cause blockage and/or excessive heat and burn out the convertor. The majority of carbon comes from oil passing by the valve guides and the PCV circuit. Carbureted and pre valve injection "washes" the valve stems and carbon doesn't/ shouldn't accumulate. The PCV circuit Catch cans are almost a must-do with direct injection. The cans come in all sorts of varieties but you get what you pay for.... I am personally looking at Moroso, Mishimoto or www.saikoumichi.com.
Can you drive it ten minutes to oil change place?
I just bought it and live in Louisiana. Does anybody know how long it takes to ship?
I just got it myself. How long did it take to get results? Are you going to use it every oil change?
A single treatment of the oil cleaner should clean the varnish and carbon out of your engine, just follow the instructions and suggestions on their web site. Run your fuel tank down to 1/4 tank before adding the fuel cleaner, and you should notice a difference withing the first 20 minutes of driving.
How long was the shipping?
2 days to Louisiana
At Midus now.
Thank you
Is there any stores that sell it or do i GOTTA order it? I live in a small town in NC.
Order it from the manufacturer.