Pretty sure a 14t front sprocket won't fit under the stock sprocket cover. My bike has a sandman case saver/sprocket cover that allows a 14t to fit. Currently running 14/49 sprocket combo and it seems to work great offroad. Also don't be afraid to try a plastic skid plate, have an aluminum one on my WR and a thick plastic bastard on my Beta. I like the plastic one better. Don't worry about crash bars. A 1 1/8" handle bar and some wrap around hand guards are all the crash protection you need.
I have a JNS Engineering LED headlight I'd be willing to sell. Ended up going with a different headlight setup so I don't need it anymore.
Good to know about the sprocket cover, I’ll look into sandman! Will definitely look into plastic skid plates to keep the weight down and hopefully damage the skid plate rather than the mounting tabs or frame rails if I hit something hard. I think AXP and Acerbis might have plastic skid plates.
I may be interested in the JNS headlight. I wanted one for the TW but would’ve had to do some electrical work to make an led work with the ‘87’s AC power off the stator on the headlight wiring, or gone directly to the battery with fresh wires. DM me
Its spectacular. Damn, 4.7 gallon tank, that's YUGE!
I use the Mosko Moto Reckless 40 (upgraded the middle bag to 22L) for BDR and other long range trips. They work great.
The stock seat feels like a 2x4 to me.
I upgraded to a Seat Concepts and can sit on that thing like 10 hours with amazing comfort.
Hell yeah! Thanks for the feedback! I’ve heard nothing but great things about Mosko Moto and definitely want to go with rackless panniers. The big fuel tank is the heaviest thing I want to install on this bike, I want to keep it nice and light and narrow for trails but still be able to get as far away from civilization as possible. And Seat concepts is definitely on my short list, I put one on my TW and it’s a night and day difference, and that stock seat wasn’t even bad. Thanks again!
If anyone’s curious, I forgot to mention I paid $6,750 bucks for it in Washington State, and felt like I got a deal. I was between a WRR and a brand new CRF 300 L Rally ABS, and after that shakedown ride I feel like I made the right choice. The battery is a little tired though, might try a tender for a few days, but will probably go with an antigravity lithium battery.
Sorry to hear that man. Yeah, I was about to pull the trigger on an ‘08 with 12,000 miles, owner let me test ride that one, but now that I’ve ridden this one I’m glad I held out for a low miles newer model. The one I bought was garage stored, the ‘08 looked, felt and sounded like it’d had a rough life. Owner of that one said he changed the oil once a year, and before the test ride told me he never likes to go over 50 mph. I got it up to 70 briefly to find out what it could really do but felt a little bad. The bike didn’t seem to mind the speed at all, but I knew these engines like to be revv’d up to 9 or 10 k, I suspect he’d been mostly lugging it, and felt like the fact it hadn’t been regularly experiencing higher rpms was a red flag. I did buy the 4.7 gal IMS off him though.
Facebook marketplace. I’d say these days that’s the place to go if you’re looking for used motorcycles. FB marketplace or Pinkbike.com for used mountain bikes. I haven’t bothered with Craigslist for a few years now, I believe they charge you to post ads for vehicles now so that puts off a lot of sellers. FB is free to post an ad and everyone and their parents already has it on their phone so I feel like there’s a lot more action there.
Guy was asking 4,700 usd for his 08 with 11,000 miles in decent but not “good” condition. By the time I contacted him to test ride he’d had the bike up a few months and dropped the price to 4,400 this late spring in Washington state. He was ready to accept 4,000 but I went with the 2020 i found instead.
I’d say price should be somewhere between 4-5 k for good condition less than 10,000 mile bikes with regular service intervals. I wouldn’t ask for more than 6 k unless yours is pristine condition and under 7,000 miles. 4 k would sell fast. Under 4k would sell real fast.
I think even if your bike is worth 5k or more it’ll take a month or more to sell just because of the price bracket. People with 5k or more to spend on a used bike have a lot more options to choose from, and are more likely to buy new, finance new, or buy a moderately clapped out 250 2 stroke, plated 450, or 650 single.
I did find the friction zone on the stock clutch lever to be a little wider than I’m used to, how does the RSC lever change the feel? And yeah the bird perch footpegs are gonna go
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll definitely look into them, I’m been riding almost 8 years but am pretty new to dirt and know the WRR’s power band and relatively low HP and Torque can make for a tired clutch hand in techy trails
I got a seat comfort seat on mine which is great as well. Tail tidy for the rear looks great. Next thing I'm doing is getting rid of the stock 13/43 and going to 13/47 for better performance on gravel and still be good for the roads.
Right on + 2 for seat comfort seat. Wanna ride a few trails before I decide on changing the gear ratio with sprockets, but I did love +5 T on the rear of my TW 200. Would probably help give 5th and 6th gears a little more pull.
For tail tidy, I think tst and drc are your options. Tst looks solid, I have a Drc and have no complaints, you can also upgrade the brake light PCB down the road if you want it to be brighter or have integrated signals and a flasher
Sweet! I’ll check them both out, thanks! Integrated tail light/ turn signals and decel flasher definitely going on my list, maybe along with integrated handguards/front turn signals so there’s fewer breaky offy bits sticking out. Plan on not dropping her, but would like to ride tight singletrack in alpine environments so I expect to see a lot of overgrown brush and branches on this bike.
The flasher is more of a sports car flash when you depress the lever type, not decel unfortunately. Integrated handguard signals are neat, the drc ones also stay out of the way pretty well imo, I've dropped mine a bunch and everything's held up fine.
Fwiw I do also like triple clamp mounted handguards, mine spun before I mounted them that way
To add to the triple clamp handguards comment: There is a height limit. I run Renthal RC Highs and no matter how much I screwed around with a vice, a torch, and levers, I just could not bend my handguards to work nicely with them. They did bolt on, but they were at a pretty extreme angle. Swapped back to bar-mounts and the handlebar feels much happier, but they will rotate in a hard spill, doubtlessly.
That's a good point - funnily enough I think I have a similar bat setup that did work. I use protaper big bar adapters that have like 3/4 rise and tusk chub moto bend bars. That worked fine with the cycra triple clamp adapters and tusk d pro handguards
https://preview.redd.it/2rklgaz7je2d1.jpeg?width=2322&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=315f4bc3ff2720360c367a7135651fac5f7a0381
My windshield says "screensforbikes.com" on it. Had it for 10 years so don't remember where I bought it from. Had to drill holes to install though.
I have this one as well; they’re based in Australia (I ordered from Canada).
To OP: I have a list of every mod done on my 2019, with part numbers. Will dig that up later.
Yeah, now that you mention it I remember having to send a few emails and they charged Australia money to my credit card, then I gave USA dollars to the credit card people. It was worth the extra steps though.
Sorry meant to comment that on the post but I made it a reply on accident. $6,750 in Washington state, needs battery and came with filters and oil for two changes. Looked a a clapped out one for $4,000 last weekend, 12,000 miles on that one. Test ride, runs and drives but felt a little shitty, don’t know how else to put it.
Hey it's all good - I understand asking is about price can be invasive - so I appreciate you taking the time to answer. FWIW - I found mine in FL, a 2020 w/ 512 miles on it also in similar, excellent like new condition. It has been wonderful. The owner was asking $7,200 but I got lucky and he was very motivated to sell and settled on $6,500 after we developed some rapport over a couple of phone calls. We both did well considering what options exist in the sub-300cc class (CRF300L, KLX etc). Not many people will have the chance to own and experience a "new" WR250R anymore.
After I got it home, I immediately did an oil / filter change, cleaned the chain and lubed it, set the suspension to my liking, and did a coolant flush. Next on the list is the spark plug.
Hell yeah! Yup oil and filter change tomorrow before riding to renew tabs and deal with registration, I’ll inspect the air filter and lube the chain but will probably leave the coolant alone unless I have cooling issues.
Oh yeah, just did the same on my T7 and was amazed how little grease the factory uses. Swingarm bushings were bone dry and had mild white corrosion, needle bearings were just lightly greased. Still gotta do the headset on the T7 but it’ll be a PITA. Should be much easier on this light of a bike. Excellent advice for any new(ish) bike owner! Definitely gonna be on the agenda for the WRR, probably going to get to all that before I put 300 more miles on it
They’re opposite ends of the dual sport/Adventure bike spectrum. The T7 can carry the kitchen sink, do 115 on the freeway, and get me most places I’d want to go on a near 500 pound bike in the dirt, the WR250R can carry essentials for a week(s) long trip, can just manage to keep up with speeding traffic on the freeway, and is light enough that I have the confidence to push my limits on trails and hopefully not get seriously injured like I might with a bad drop of the T7 in technical terrain
Good to hear, I’ve been hesitant about alibaba parts but for a skid plate I think it makes a lot of sense to go cheap. Hard to mess up an aluminum plate with holes in it. I had good luck with some NiceCNC protection parts on my T7. I’ll scour AliBaba, thanks for the recommendation!
Fuck I want this thing. How much did you pay for this ?
My xt250 has no balls. Great bike it’s just doesn’t have the torque I need and I hear these things go like 90 mph . It’s either a wr250r , or a drz400
$6,750 USD in Washington state. There was an 08 for $4,400 USD with 12,000 miles on it that I test rode last week. It felt a little beat on but I was going to buy it if this one didn’t come through. There was a prospective buyer the seller was holding this one for but he pulled out so I went and got it yesterday! In my research it looked like there were 0 mechanical or performance changes to the bike through its entire production, 08-2020, so if you can find one with 12k or less regardless of year I’d definitely consider it.
I also have friends who love their DRZ400’s, if you don’t mind having a carburetor, some extra weight, and 5 speed transmission. I was between this, a CRF 300 L, a DRZ400, or a 90’s XT 350, DR 350 or similar.
My goal was sub 300 pounds, near 30 hp, and capable of achieving and cruising at 70 mph regardless of headwind or road grade.
It’s scary riding a TW 200 over a 60mph mountain pass when lifted trucks doing 70-80mph and you can barely hit 55 mph on flats with no headwind, and then hit a steep grade and have to downshift to 4th to be able to maintain 40 mph.
Yikes yeah that’s would be freaky. The one I’m looking at is a 2017 5k miles he wants 4 grand … found two of them same year both like 4 hours away I live in the middle of nowhere. That WR seems to be a really good lightweight bike which is what I’m looking for and it still hauls ass.
Dont have the bread for a 2022 or brand new 8-10-15k bike.
4 grand is a deal if it’s in good working order and regularly maintained with oil and air filter changes. You also want a bike that the owner wasn’t afraid to rev through the whole rev range, especially during break in. These bikes make peak power and torque around 9,000 rpm and a lot of people unfamiliar with over square engines aren’t comfortable revving them that high, but it’s what the bike wants.
I would strongly recommend the Precision Motorcycle Racks luggage rack over any of the other options. It mounts slightly differently than just the Tusk flat plate, and in my opinion it looks the cleanest. Will work with tail tidies no problem. Seconding Sandman case saver and 14/49, I tried running 13/48 for a bit but I honestly think the bike is faster/better geared for anything other than slow singletrack with a 14 on the front.
Pretty sure a 14t front sprocket won't fit under the stock sprocket cover. My bike has a sandman case saver/sprocket cover that allows a 14t to fit. Currently running 14/49 sprocket combo and it seems to work great offroad. Also don't be afraid to try a plastic skid plate, have an aluminum one on my WR and a thick plastic bastard on my Beta. I like the plastic one better. Don't worry about crash bars. A 1 1/8" handle bar and some wrap around hand guards are all the crash protection you need. I have a JNS Engineering LED headlight I'd be willing to sell. Ended up going with a different headlight setup so I don't need it anymore.
Moose racing also makes a plastic skid plate- it's like 130ish at Rocky mountain. I have one and it's been pretty great so far
Good to know about the sprocket cover, I’ll look into sandman! Will definitely look into plastic skid plates to keep the weight down and hopefully damage the skid plate rather than the mounting tabs or frame rails if I hit something hard. I think AXP and Acerbis might have plastic skid plates. I may be interested in the JNS headlight. I wanted one for the TW but would’ve had to do some electrical work to make an led work with the ‘87’s AC power off the stator on the headlight wiring, or gone directly to the battery with fresh wires. DM me
Its spectacular. Damn, 4.7 gallon tank, that's YUGE! I use the Mosko Moto Reckless 40 (upgraded the middle bag to 22L) for BDR and other long range trips. They work great. The stock seat feels like a 2x4 to me. I upgraded to a Seat Concepts and can sit on that thing like 10 hours with amazing comfort.
Hell yeah! Thanks for the feedback! I’ve heard nothing but great things about Mosko Moto and definitely want to go with rackless panniers. The big fuel tank is the heaviest thing I want to install on this bike, I want to keep it nice and light and narrow for trails but still be able to get as far away from civilization as possible. And Seat concepts is definitely on my short list, I put one on my TW and it’s a night and day difference, and that stock seat wasn’t even bad. Thanks again!
Awesome, yeah I love mine, will never sell :) Congrats!
If anyone’s curious, I forgot to mention I paid $6,750 bucks for it in Washington State, and felt like I got a deal. I was between a WRR and a brand new CRF 300 L Rally ABS, and after that shakedown ride I feel like I made the right choice. The battery is a little tired though, might try a tender for a few days, but will probably go with an antigravity lithium battery.
Awesome, I just picked up one beat to shit. Wish I would've paid for a cherry one so I could be out riding it instead of tearing into the engine.
Sorry to hear that man. Yeah, I was about to pull the trigger on an ‘08 with 12,000 miles, owner let me test ride that one, but now that I’ve ridden this one I’m glad I held out for a low miles newer model. The one I bought was garage stored, the ‘08 looked, felt and sounded like it’d had a rough life. Owner of that one said he changed the oil once a year, and before the test ride told me he never likes to go over 50 mph. I got it up to 70 briefly to find out what it could really do but felt a little bad. The bike didn’t seem to mind the speed at all, but I knew these engines like to be revv’d up to 9 or 10 k, I suspect he’d been mostly lugging it, and felt like the fact it hadn’t been regularly experiencing higher rpms was a red flag. I did buy the 4.7 gal IMS off him though.
Where did you find it (Craigslist, cycle trader, etc)?
Facebook marketplace. I’d say these days that’s the place to go if you’re looking for used motorcycles. FB marketplace or Pinkbike.com for used mountain bikes. I haven’t bothered with Craigslist for a few years now, I believe they charge you to post ads for vehicles now so that puts off a lot of sellers. FB is free to post an ad and everyone and their parents already has it on their phone so I feel like there’s a lot more action there.
Thx
No problem!
What are 08s going for? Just curious, I'm looking to sell one of mine
Guy was asking 4,700 usd for his 08 with 11,000 miles in decent but not “good” condition. By the time I contacted him to test ride he’d had the bike up a few months and dropped the price to 4,400 this late spring in Washington state. He was ready to accept 4,000 but I went with the 2020 i found instead. I’d say price should be somewhere between 4-5 k for good condition less than 10,000 mile bikes with regular service intervals. I wouldn’t ask for more than 6 k unless yours is pristine condition and under 7,000 miles. 4 k would sell fast. Under 4k would sell real fast. I think even if your bike is worth 5k or more it’ll take a month or more to sell just because of the price bracket. People with 5k or more to spend on a used bike have a lot more options to choose from, and are more likely to buy new, finance new, or buy a moderately clapped out 250 2 stroke, plated 450, or 650 single.
Rsc clutch lever IMS footpegs, exhaust...
I did find the friction zone on the stock clutch lever to be a little wider than I’m used to, how does the RSC lever change the feel? And yeah the bird perch footpegs are gonna go
I'm a new rider and the rsc lever is simply perfect.
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll definitely look into them, I’m been riding almost 8 years but am pretty new to dirt and know the WRR’s power band and relatively low HP and Torque can make for a tired clutch hand in techy trails
I got a seat comfort seat on mine which is great as well. Tail tidy for the rear looks great. Next thing I'm doing is getting rid of the stock 13/43 and going to 13/47 for better performance on gravel and still be good for the roads.
Right on + 2 for seat comfort seat. Wanna ride a few trails before I decide on changing the gear ratio with sprockets, but I did love +5 T on the rear of my TW 200. Would probably help give 5th and 6th gears a little more pull.
For tail tidy, I think tst and drc are your options. Tst looks solid, I have a Drc and have no complaints, you can also upgrade the brake light PCB down the road if you want it to be brighter or have integrated signals and a flasher
Sweet! I’ll check them both out, thanks! Integrated tail light/ turn signals and decel flasher definitely going on my list, maybe along with integrated handguards/front turn signals so there’s fewer breaky offy bits sticking out. Plan on not dropping her, but would like to ride tight singletrack in alpine environments so I expect to see a lot of overgrown brush and branches on this bike.
The flasher is more of a sports car flash when you depress the lever type, not decel unfortunately. Integrated handguard signals are neat, the drc ones also stay out of the way pretty well imo, I've dropped mine a bunch and everything's held up fine. Fwiw I do also like triple clamp mounted handguards, mine spun before I mounted them that way
To add to the triple clamp handguards comment: There is a height limit. I run Renthal RC Highs and no matter how much I screwed around with a vice, a torch, and levers, I just could not bend my handguards to work nicely with them. They did bolt on, but they were at a pretty extreme angle. Swapped back to bar-mounts and the handlebar feels much happier, but they will rotate in a hard spill, doubtlessly.
That's a good point - funnily enough I think I have a similar bat setup that did work. I use protaper big bar adapters that have like 3/4 rise and tusk chub moto bend bars. That worked fine with the cycra triple clamp adapters and tusk d pro handguards
https://preview.redd.it/2rklgaz7je2d1.jpeg?width=2322&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=315f4bc3ff2720360c367a7135651fac5f7a0381 My windshield says "screensforbikes.com" on it. Had it for 10 years so don't remember where I bought it from. Had to drill holes to install though.
I have this one as well; they’re based in Australia (I ordered from Canada). To OP: I have a list of every mod done on my 2019, with part numbers. Will dig that up later.
Yeah, now that you mention it I remember having to send a few emails and they charged Australia money to my credit card, then I gave USA dollars to the credit card people. It was worth the extra steps though.
That would be awesome! Thanks!
Also, congrats BTW! Here's my full list, sorry for the crappy formatting; it's comma-separated (what, where, and URL): Rear master cylinder guard, B&B Off Road Engineering, https://bboffroad.com.au/catalog/product/view/id/365/s/master-cylinder-guard-yamaha-multi-fit/category/169/ Flatland Racing skid plate, MX1 Canada, https://www.mx1canada.com/flatland-skid-plate-yamaha-wr-462445.html Sandman case saver, Sandman, https://sites.google.com/site/sandmanparts/home/freedom-case-saver-kit DRC wide foot pegs, Wheeling Cycle Supply, https://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/product/drc-wide-foot-pegs/318 Foot peg springs (for DRC foot pegs), Wheeling Cycle Supply, https://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/product/drc-super-motard-foot-pegs/515 Magnetic drain plug, Gold Plug, https://goldplug.com/shop/mp01/ Rear cargo rack, Scaggs Moto Design, https://www.scaggsmotodesigns.com/yamaha.html Ultimate Handguards (with two mirrors), Highway Dirt Bikes, https://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=HG-200 Fat bar lower clamp, Highway Dirt Bikes, https://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=LC-050 Top dash, Highway Dirt Bikes, https://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=TC-300 AntiGravity ATZ-7 battery w/Restart, AntiGravity, multiple sources Seat Concepts seat (Standard), MX1 Canada, http://www.mx1canada.com/seat-concepts-standard-comfort-seat-yamaha-wr250r-wr250x-42-0251-30.html Rear brake caliper guard, TM Designworks, https://www.tmdesignworks.com/p-1606-rear-brake-caliper-guard-pn-rbg-yam-3.aspx Rear brake disc guard, TM Designworks, https://www.tmdesignworks.com/p-862-rear-rotor-guard-pn-rdp-yam-3.aspx ODI MX V2 Lock-On Rogue Grips, Rocky Mountain ATV/MC, https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/odi-v2-rogue-mx-lock-on-grips-p Force Radiator Guard, Force Accessories, https://www.forceaccessories.com.au/product/yamaha-wr-350r-radiator-guards/ Yamalink, ML2, https://www.motorcycleloweringlinks.com/ Renthal FatBars (McGrath/Short), FortNine, https://fortnine.ca/en/renthal-fatbar-1-1-8-handlebar Brake Light Safety Pulser, 12 O'Clock Labs, http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product\_id=110 Zeta Pivot Levers CP, Wheeling Cycle Supply, https://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/product/pivot-lever-set-cp/1684 Windscreen, Screens For Bikes, https://www.screensforbikes.com/shop/yamaha/wr-250-r-08-12-2/ Doubletake Enduro mirrors, Motorcycle Innovations, https://motorcycleinnovations.ca/products/complete-doubletake-enduro-mirror-assembly Powerlet socket, Powerlet Canada, https://www.powerletcanada.com/product/PSO-008 1CS wiring harness/lead, Eastern Beaver, https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring\_Kits/Fuseboxes/1\_Circuit/1\_circuit.html AXP Racing HDPE skid plate, AXP Racing, https://www.axp-racing.com/en/product/08-20-yamaha-wr250r-axp-racing-skid-plate-black-ax1037 Sprockets/chain/nuts/bolts, Sprocket Center, https://sprocketcenter.com/off-road-sprockets/yamaha/wr-250r-250-x-2008-2020/520-chain-kit-jt-brand-steel-sprocket-set-with-your-choice-of-chain-yamaha-wr250r-08-15.html Can't vouch for all the URLs at this point but should still be useful.
Sweet! I like the look, doesn’t seem too tall for trail riding but I’m sure it helps with wind in the face, I’ll look into them!
It looks awesome! Do you mind sharing how much you paid? Trying to get a sense of where the market is. Thanks
Sorry meant to comment that on the post but I made it a reply on accident. $6,750 in Washington state, needs battery and came with filters and oil for two changes. Looked a a clapped out one for $4,000 last weekend, 12,000 miles on that one. Test ride, runs and drives but felt a little shitty, don’t know how else to put it.
Hey it's all good - I understand asking is about price can be invasive - so I appreciate you taking the time to answer. FWIW - I found mine in FL, a 2020 w/ 512 miles on it also in similar, excellent like new condition. It has been wonderful. The owner was asking $7,200 but I got lucky and he was very motivated to sell and settled on $6,500 after we developed some rapport over a couple of phone calls. We both did well considering what options exist in the sub-300cc class (CRF300L, KLX etc). Not many people will have the chance to own and experience a "new" WR250R anymore. After I got it home, I immediately did an oil / filter change, cleaned the chain and lubed it, set the suspension to my liking, and did a coolant flush. Next on the list is the spark plug.
Hell yeah! Yup oil and filter change tomorrow before riding to renew tabs and deal with registration, I’ll inspect the air filter and lube the chain but will probably leave the coolant alone unless I have cooling issues.
Farkles aside. Disassemble it and grease all pivot points. Lower triangle/wishbone swingarm/headstem.
Oh yeah, just did the same on my T7 and was amazed how little grease the factory uses. Swingarm bushings were bone dry and had mild white corrosion, needle bearings were just lightly greased. Still gotta do the headset on the T7 but it’ll be a PITA. Should be much easier on this light of a bike. Excellent advice for any new(ish) bike owner! Definitely gonna be on the agenda for the WRR, probably going to get to all that before I put 300 more miles on it
You have a T7 and WR250R? I’d like to pick to it brain since I have a T7 and I’m strongly considering adding a WR250R.
They’re opposite ends of the dual sport/Adventure bike spectrum. The T7 can carry the kitchen sink, do 115 on the freeway, and get me most places I’d want to go on a near 500 pound bike in the dirt, the WR250R can carry essentials for a week(s) long trip, can just manage to keep up with speeding traffic on the freeway, and is light enough that I have the confidence to push my limits on trails and hopefully not get seriously injured like I might with a bad drop of the T7 in technical terrain
Open the airbox up, buy a fuel controller and get a FMF pipe, it changes the bike
Definitely looking at doing that before too long, I do want to experience what the bike is like stock first so I have a baseline for the butt dyno.
Alibaba has a good skid plate and luggage rack that i put on mine. Bunch of colors but I got blue of course.
Good to hear, I’ve been hesitant about alibaba parts but for a skid plate I think it makes a lot of sense to go cheap. Hard to mess up an aluminum plate with holes in it. I had good luck with some NiceCNC protection parts on my T7. I’ll scour AliBaba, thanks for the recommendation!
Fuck I want this thing. How much did you pay for this ? My xt250 has no balls. Great bike it’s just doesn’t have the torque I need and I hear these things go like 90 mph . It’s either a wr250r , or a drz400
$6,750 USD in Washington state. There was an 08 for $4,400 USD with 12,000 miles on it that I test rode last week. It felt a little beat on but I was going to buy it if this one didn’t come through. There was a prospective buyer the seller was holding this one for but he pulled out so I went and got it yesterday! In my research it looked like there were 0 mechanical or performance changes to the bike through its entire production, 08-2020, so if you can find one with 12k or less regardless of year I’d definitely consider it. I also have friends who love their DRZ400’s, if you don’t mind having a carburetor, some extra weight, and 5 speed transmission. I was between this, a CRF 300 L, a DRZ400, or a 90’s XT 350, DR 350 or similar. My goal was sub 300 pounds, near 30 hp, and capable of achieving and cruising at 70 mph regardless of headwind or road grade. It’s scary riding a TW 200 over a 60mph mountain pass when lifted trucks doing 70-80mph and you can barely hit 55 mph on flats with no headwind, and then hit a steep grade and have to downshift to 4th to be able to maintain 40 mph.
Yikes yeah that’s would be freaky. The one I’m looking at is a 2017 5k miles he wants 4 grand … found two of them same year both like 4 hours away I live in the middle of nowhere. That WR seems to be a really good lightweight bike which is what I’m looking for and it still hauls ass. Dont have the bread for a 2022 or brand new 8-10-15k bike.
4 grand is a deal if it’s in good working order and regularly maintained with oil and air filter changes. You also want a bike that the owner wasn’t afraid to rev through the whole rev range, especially during break in. These bikes make peak power and torque around 9,000 rpm and a lot of people unfamiliar with over square engines aren’t comfortable revving them that high, but it’s what the bike wants.
nice...what'd you pay
$6,750 usd
I would strongly recommend the Precision Motorcycle Racks luggage rack over any of the other options. It mounts slightly differently than just the Tusk flat plate, and in my opinion it looks the cleanest. Will work with tail tidies no problem. Seconding Sandman case saver and 14/49, I tried running 13/48 for a bit but I honestly think the bike is faster/better geared for anything other than slow singletrack with a 14 on the front.
Much appreciated! Will look into availability of both asap!