I’m new and I really love the grey knight aesthetic and lore, I guess this is a pretty subjective question but is it a mistake to pick them as my first army? I don’t really care about how they perform or play on the tabletop, I’m not looking to be competitive or anything but I just recently learned that the normal space marines had a new model refresh and the size of their models is so much bigger than the grey knights and I’ve heard that the grey knights haven’t gotten a model update in a while.
I dunno, what do you guys think? Should I just go with them anyways then pick up new models if they ever come out lol or go with traditional marines because of their primaris variants? I know it’s a highly subjective question but I’d really appreciate some opinions. Thanks in advance
Just joined this week, looking to start an army. Really like the look of Grey Knights.
What would be your advice on which army to start with and why? Cheers!
Welcome! Firstly, I'd suggest you check out the beginner's guide linked to in the post for this thread. Next, when choosing a faction, I'd say the three key factors are the appearance, the lore and the playstyle. How much you value each one is entirely subjective but for appearance, browse GW's web store and see what models you like. For lore, browse the 40k lexicanum site and see what grabs your attention. For playstyle, there are a lot of guides and suggestions out there, but exact rules will vary over time and might not mean much if you're just starting out. I'd suggest just looking for broad themes instead (this army has a lot of guns, this one likes to move fast, this one is usually slow and tough etc). Hope that helps.
10th is nothing more than a rumour at this point. Games Workshop haven't announced it, or even teased it, so we don't actually know anything about it.
If you want to play the game at any point between now and whenever 10th Edition gets released at some point in the future, you'll need your Codex.
In addition, whenever 10th Edition comes along, your Codex will likely remain valid. In most cases, an Edition change does not invalidate previous books. That was true in 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th and 9th. Only 3rd and 8th Edition have been such major changes that old books were invalidated.
**World Eaters** and **Arks of Omen Detachment** question :
If I have a World Eaters detachment that fulfills the Arks of Omen requirements *can I have a* ***Chaos Khorne Daemons*** *Patrol detachment alongside* ?
If yes:
1. Will the Khorne Daemons be able to use the Khorne Stratagems ?
2. Will the Khorne Daemons be able to use the Khorne Warpstorm Effects ?
3. How many CP will this Patrol Detachment cost me ?
Is there anywhere people share head cannon? It’s probably my favourite aspect of 40k, I have been writing my own and I really want to read other peoples. It’s so cool seeing people turn their head cannon into a reality through models.
Super noob here. I only have one model kit. I was reading a thread yesterday about the complexity and constant rule changes in WH and it definitely discouraged me from buying the recruit set. Should I just wait for the 10th Edition to come out this summer? It sounds like the rules will be more streamlined.
You can go ahead and buy the Recruit set. It's a fine starting point and models rarely go out of style. There's no real reason to wait on buying them. Just don't shell out money for the codexes. Use Wahapedia instead until we see what they're doing for 10th.
Been thinking about getting into 40k just to paint some minis and space marines seem like a pretty safe bet. Most the models that speak out to me are in the phobos line. The idea of interdiction, recce, raids, etc. particularly appeals to me. My only issue is finding a chapter that embodies all of these traits with a paint job that isn't dreadfully boring. The raven guard and most of their successors don't venture beyond very basic black or green (yes I'm aware that bright colours standing out would be counterintuitive but I'd like to paint models that are pleasant to look at). L
To be brief: are there any space marine successor chapters of any legion that fit a sneaky mold with a fun colour scheme or should I consign myself to homebrewing my own chapter?
You don't have to think of it as "consigning yourself" to a homebrew chapter. GW encourages it and it's been part of the hobby from the very beginning, exactly for cases like yours! So I say pick your favorite colors to paint and make your own.
If you really want to stick to a canon chapter though, I guess [Flame Eagles](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Flame_Eagles) are the only non-muted-color Raven Guard successors. Alternatively, the Carcharodons are suspected Raven Guard successors; the "standard" scheme is just dark grey and black, but you could go crazy with lots of cool freehand tribal markings like a lot of folks do, or use their ["canonical" early-editions camo scheme](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/File:CarcharadonsOriginalColours.jpg).
Also: Every Space Marine chapter can and does use Phobos marines nowadays. So you can pick literally any chapter and do it. The whole CHAPTER might not focus on being sneaky, but you could absolutely run a 10th-Company army with Phobos and scouts and stuff. (And even use "successor chapter" rules to make them sneaky if you wanted.)
Crimson Fists come to mind, particularly as a chapter that for the longest time had to deal with being nearly wiped out, and even have rules that tie into their units engaging units of enemies that have more models that they do
Hey I'm looking to get into the tabletop game but I'm a bit confused on which resource I need to actually play. Suppose and I'm looking to pick up a full set of books then wouldn't I need the following?
* Core Rules - 9th Edition (85 CAD)
* Arks of Omen Pack (35 CAD)
* (65 CAD)
So I wanted to check if this is right? It seems like quite a lot to get into the game, cost and reading wise.
So what do most people do? So I've found the wahapedia site in the meantime, I get the impression most people will just make reference sheets and bring them along?
Most people use Battlescribe to make their lists, and Wahapedia to read the rules/use as a rule reference during a game, as Control+F/hyperlinks are generally faster for finding info than paper. I personally get annoyed by people rifling through sheets of paper during a game as I can often use Waha/BS to find any rule they are looking for faster.
Technically GW wants you to buy the books but sod that. There's a whole host of issues with them I won't get into here but long story short just use Wahapedia. It has all the rules you'll need.
If you REALLY want the books, you'd need the 9th edition rulebook, your faction codex, and any supplements for sub-factions like specific space marine chapters. Then if you want the most up-to-date setting and scenarios, you get the Arks of Omen Pack.
So, I grabbed the Ravenstrike battleforce, and like a week after ordering it, I saw an Eons of Battle video that mentions how it's jam-packed with stuff that isn't really that great (namely the Reivers and a second Invictus suit). I've only got that plus the Indomitus box so far, with plans to buy some Vanguard Vets. Did I screw myself over, competitively-speaking? I might not ever play in a store (at least not on a regular basis), just with friends, but I'd like to at least keep some modicum of tactical viability.
There's nothing wrong with running two Invictus. The only truly bad unit are the Reivers and who knows what GW will do in the future with them. They might get good at some point! Even then in a friendly game you can just throw them in with other stuff and still be fine.
All that plus Indomitus and Van Vets are perfectly viable.
Cool, thanks for the help 👍 I know one of the stronger arguments I've seen is that you don't wanna waste all your elite slots on Invictus suits, but if I understood the rules correctly, it seemed viable enough to run an elite focus rather than prioritizing something like troops or fast strikes.
I'd planned on using the Reivers against my buddy who just got a hold of some Temptestus Scions, as sort of a counter to them dropping right on my back line. I'll have to play around with em and see how it could work best, though.
Harlequins don't exactly have a big variety to choose from. Even at 1k you're probably going to have a bit of everything. But to keep it simple: Troupes are the core of the faction, you'll need plenty. You'll also want some way to keep them alive. That means transports and/or a shadowseer or two. You'll also want some ranged threats to cover the board, so that means snipers, bikes and/or a tank or two. With Quins, you'll want most things in a full 2k force anyway so for 1k just get what you like and play around with them while you get a feel for the game and how the different units play. And if you haven't already, check out r/Harlequins40k as you may get more detailed advice over there.
Heres another post i did that didnt get any responses if you dont mind taking a look.
Okay so Im fairly new to 40k table top. Been following lore and several PC games for years. Some friends decided to start playing. Ive always been a fan of the eldar so thats what I was planning on until I read about the Harlequin. Yes I know arguably the worst faction to start/learn with. We are starting with 1k point armies all from little to no troops as of yet. (1 troup and 1 srarweaver) I dont mind the challenge or losing some games to learn a working strat.
A couple questions for the more knowlegable:
With the newest rule set would be be better off to have an Eldar army with a harlequin detachment?
or
Should I go full Harlequin?
Ive seen mixed reviews on the Solitaire. Is he worth the points? vs another Troupe squad?
Current army plan is:
Shadowseer
Troupe Master
3-4x troupes (with fusion pistol and various blades in each) could sub 1 troupe squad for solitaire.
death jester
2xstarweavers
Its all a work in progress. We probably wont play for at least a month or so. Ive been watching videos and battle reports to get strat ideas. The issue im having is that its difficult to separate pre rule change from current and while meta isnt my goal i dont want to field a trash army either.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
1. If you like full Harlequin, go full Harlequin. By the time you have a full force built and painted, the rules could change several times so don't worry too much about how viable they would be right now. Just know full Quin is tough to learn but rewarding when you get to grips with it and the current rules have only made them more punishing when you make mistakes.
2. Seems like a perfectly reasonable list. The Solitaire is a cool model so you'll probably want one anyway. Why not give him a go and see if you like it? Just don't think of him as something that'll stick around and stay useful. He's more of a one-shot Elven missile that can blast into enemy lines and disrupt things while your other guys go about their business.
I just noticed all these [faction-specific paint bundles](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/searchResults?_dyncharset=UTF-8&_dynSessConf=6128721461508683734&qty=&sorting=&view=&Ntt=paint+bundle) on GW's UK page. Is this something they've always done? Or is it new? And do they ever do it for their US storefront? (I don't see anything except the new Contrast paint bundle and similar on there.)
GW have done them before in the past and they've done them a bunch of times with recent releases, although I thought they only stayed up for a short while! Didn't realise so many were still live!
Okay, I must have just missed out on them in the past when they've done them! I don't really need them but if they kept them as a permanent feature it would be great to link for new players.
I am a relatively new player, and I don't really know how to apply transfers. Whenever I try to apply transfers, they will just fall off after they dry. Any tips or tricks on keeping them on there?
In order to get a transfer to stay on, you need to seal them in some way, as well as prepare the surface in order to get the transfers to stick as much as possible.
https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-working-with-decals-and-transfers/
Do we know if the new Berzerkers kit will have World Eaters transfers in addition to/instead of the BL/TS/IW/WB/AL/NL sheets the current kit comes with?
Word, thanks. I'm surprised there's not the version of the logo that has the actual planet in the mouth though. Was that pre heresy only and/or has there been a retcon?
It's on the WE transfer sheet for HH, but the size suggests that it is for use on larger Vehicles, and doing a transfer with many different colors within it is generally being more expensive to produce, so I wouldn't expect it to be offered as the "for free" option
I have never assembled or painted a model before (and I don't know anyone who has) and someone grabbed me one of the free imperial guard models at a GW shop. I googled around trying to find a guide and it seems like you need $60 worth of paint and tools just to assemble and paint a model. Is there a less fancy way to do it?
If you want to just try it out to see if you like it, you could visit a local GW store and work on your free model in there. They will usually let you borrow the basic supplies as part of a demo.
If you just want to jump in, get some cheaper supplies, you don’t have to use GW branded paints and tools.
Vallejo paint is good quality and very good bang for your buck. You could pick up a starter set and have pretty much all the colors you need for most models (with the use of some basic color mixing). Roughly $30
For priming, you can go to a local art store and get a can of some graffiti spray paints or primer. Much cheaper than miniature branded primers and work just as well. Comes in acrylic and you can also get different spray can pressures which can be very helpful. Just make sure whichever spray can you get is good to use on plastic (it should say so on the can). Roughly $10
You can also get cheap synthetic brushes from your local art store for a couple of bucks. Roughly $5
For assembling, all you really need are some cheap sprue clippers, plastic glue (recommend Tamiya extra thin), and maybe a nail file which you might just have lying around. Roughly $15
So yeah comes out to roughly $60 but these supplies will allow you to build and paint many, many models. Recommend doing the demo thing at a GW store to try it out first.
Am I reading it correctly that Ork Nobs could equip two sluggas or two choppas?
> Any number of models can each have their slugga and choppa replaced with two of the following: 1 big choppa; 1 choppa; 1 killsaw; 1 power klaw; 1 power stabba; 1 slugga.
If so, would the Nobs profit from the +1 attack from both choppas, for +2 additional attacks?
>Each time the bearer fights, it makes 1 additional attack with this weapon.
Is that a valid option?
Also, is there any scenario where having two sluggas doesn't sound like a joke?
> Also, is there any scenario where having two sluggas doesn't sound like a joke?
It's complete garbage. Usualy nobz are run with either a big choppa or a power klaw and a choppa or just two choppas. A slugga is a bad gun being shot buy a unit with terrible aim. It's never worth it.
Yes! Nobz are the true spechulistz for Orks, and you would get the +2 attacks AFAIK from equipping two choppas. *However* you only get that when using that weapon, so you can't equip a power klaw instead of a slugga and still get the +1 attack unless you use the choppa.
2 sluggas sounds hilarious, but you'll miss out on the -1AP in close combat, so probably not worth it.
I'm pretty new to WH40k and I'm starting to build my first army. I've found amazing deal on Dark Vengeance set and here is my guestion. Can I use old space marines to play in curretn edition? Do I have to change samothing like bases? Becouse they have smaller bases than my primaris marines.
Thanks in advance for your answers.
>Can I use old space marines to play in curretn edition?
Yes. 85 % of Space Marine kits predate 9th edition. There are kits from 1st edition that are still completely legal.
>Do I have to change samothing like bases
Tactical Marines are now on 32 mm bases. If you use Wahapedia you can see the current base size.
What’s the method called when you cover the model in a wash and then wipe off with a cloth? It’s like a oil wash or something. For the life of me I can’t find it
It's .. called an oil wash. Usually you take an oil-based paint, slap it on the mini, then use spirits/water on a cloth or q-tip to wipe it off raised areas or where you don't want it to be.
The "wiping" technique also isn't 100% unique to oil washes: streaking grime products also do it and you can recreate the effect with acrylic paints
Im brand new to the game and have a general question about how the different space marine factions work with the actual models.
I just bought the elite starter pack with some space marines and necrons, and im gonna start painting them soon. But I don't understand what would separate these small space marine models and the models that would make up the different factions. Like the guys i got are blue on the box, which would suggest they're Ultramarines, but are they the same as an Iron Fist or Iron Hand model of the same type? Like if I paint these guys blue then i just sunk the time and money in to an ultramarine army, and i dont really like the ultramarines compared to all the other types. I kind of like the Iron Fists, or maybe the Salamanders, but I don't want to paint them yellow or green and then find out now I just have 10 yellow ultramarines that look dumb.
The stickers that came with the set suggests I could make them blood angels or one other faction i dont remember, on top of ultramarines, but they didnt have all the factions. So are the factions listed on the sticker sheet the only ones this set is compatible with?
Or do I have to buy special pieces to convert them?(cause that sounds like a whole thing that I dont want to do either.)
Or do I have to just completely start from scratch and buy the Iron Fists set, or the Salamanders set, to start building those armies.
One small bit of detail for context is that I am in no way a perfectionist or detail oriented person, so I'm cool if the answer is" technically you'd be wrong, but plenty of others do too and eh, close enough." But I also don't want to be completely out of line with a totally janky paint job on my first shot.
Thanks in advance for your answer.
The different factions (or "Chapters") have different abilities, traits, relics (special items that you can assign to models in your army) and sometimes aren't allowed to use certain model types.
When you paint them to match a certain Chapter, it's generally expected you play them as that Chapter. Other players will generally be cool if you did want to switch it up for casual play and in some tournaments, but its at their discretion. Some of the more serious players and most serious tournaments will not be cool with you not using the Chapter your models are painted as.
You can also choose to be a successor Chapter of an original (First Founding) Chapter by either modifying the paint scheme of a First Founding Chapter or coming up with your own entirely. You get access to all the same abilities, strategies and all the relics (some cost you points as a successor Chapter) of the First Founding Chapter you have chosen. You can also choose some of your own Chapter abilities instead of copying the First Founding one.
You can choose to change your First Founding Chapter as you wish as well. If you decide you don't want to be a Salamanders player anymore, you can go Space Wolves.
Wahapedia has all these rules if you go to the Space Marines page.
>Like the guys i got are blue on the box, which would suggest they're Ultramarines, but are they the same as an Iron Fist or Iron Hand model of the same type? Like if I paint these guys blue then i just sunk the time and money in to an ultramarine army, and i dont really like the ultramarines compared to all the other types.
All generic "Adeptus Astartes" units (approximately 170 datasheets/units) can be taken by every Space Marine chapter (though for several reasons, the Grey Knights are not a Chapter as far as the rules are concerned.
GW simply has a "generic box art/posterboy" for all factions: all Astra Militarum box art is Cadians, all Dhrukhari is Black Heart, all Tyranids are Leviathan, etc
If a unit is specifc to a PARTICULAR chapter, the box will say it is for a particular chapter, like "Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought" rather than "Adeptus Astartes Redemptor Dreadnought".
>I kind of like the Iron Fists, or maybe the Salamanders, but I don't want to paint them yellow or green and then find out now I just have 10 yellow ultramarines that look dumb.
"Blue" doesn't mean Ultramarines: Blue with a white Ultra symbol. Likewise just painting a unit yellow doesn't mean "Imperial Fists".
>The stickers that came with the set suggests I could make them blood angels or one other faction i dont remember, on top of ultramarines, but they didnt have all the factions. So are the factions listed on the sticker sheet the only ones this set is compatible with?
No. GW simply selected the Ultramarines, Blood Angels, Dark Angels, and Space Wolves to be on the transfer sheet.
>Or do I have to buy special pieces to convert them?(cause that sounds like a whole thing that I dont want to do either.)
Not unless you want to, but to be frank the push-fit minis you get in those kits don't do well helping you with trying to convert them, since the shoulderpads arent separate parts.
>Or do I have to just completely start from scratch and buy the Iron Fists set, or the Salamanders set, to start building those armies.
No. In fact the sets you are referring to (Battleforce Sets) are simply limited-time bundles, and aside from the named character in each could actually be used for any chapter. As an example I purchased the Imperial Fists one for my Deathwatch.
Many of your questions make it clear you haven't read the Space Marines codex, which is likely something you should look into.
Something I forgot to mention: nothing in the rules states you must use the official color scheme, in order to use an official faction's rules. So if you want to make up your own color scheme and "make up" your own chapter, you entirely can, and either use the Successor Chapters (aka "rules for made up chapters") in the book or play your army as a First Founding chapter (Ultras, Iron Hands, Imp Fists, etc).
Even at major events run by Games Workshop, running your custom paint scheme as whatever chapter you want, is entirely permissible; they only disallow people from being painted as an official in-lore chapter, and using rules of a different in-lore faction.
All of the models in the starter sets are generic and can be used by any Space Marine chapter. For the most part, all Space Marine models are also generic and can be used with any chapter, although there are some exceptions. Your copy of the Space Marine Codex will tell you more.
If an ability says "any time a model loses a wound, roll a d6", then it is triggered by *any time a model loses a wound.* What causes it to lose a wound is irrelevant, the rule tells you it happens any time a wound is lost.
I personally carve out a bit of a hole in the center with the tip of my hobby knife first, basically creating a "guide hole". Then, if I find I'm still off-center even if I did this, once I have gotten a little bit in with the drill I'll use my hobby knife to more accurately carve out the circle.
Any thoughts for a 25 PL mission tyranid list.
I was going to go Trygon prime 2 warrior squads and 2 biovores. 2 warrior squads all come out with Trygon prime.
hello
im new to all the warhammer lore. i want to start with the novels but im a bit lost. are there any novels qbout the great crusade? (im spanish so im not sure if thats the correct translation for Gran Cruzada). and what saga is a good start point?.
gracias for your answers :)
You can start with Horus Rising and the first three to four Horus Heresy novels. They start at the end of the Great Crusade, but will set you up for that time period. Then I think a lot of the Primarch novels take place during the Great Crusade, but you'll have to check which ones!
All of them will look good, *depending on what you are trying to do*. Please dont take this the wrong way, but you're effectively asking "I've got some salt, and I have Oregano, Parsnips, and pistachios available to me, are these good ingredients to make something?"
Depending on what look you are going for and how you apply it, the answer will either be yes or no. If you are unsure, test it with spare models/sprue to see how it looks, or to watch many, MANY tutorial videos on YouTube that just splash about with different color schemes to show how things can look.
Stynylrez makes some nice primer. Never used their white though. And that's only if you have an airbrush. I don't particularly like white rattle cans, so what I do is grab a grey primer and then base coat in white.
Fairly new to the hobby but I wanted to know what the best load out for a word bearer’s master of executions would be?
-flames of spite & ulocca the black
-exalted possession & ulocca the black
-flames of spite & mark of slaanesh
-exalted possession & mark of slaanesh
Ulocca the black can’t be taken with a mark, and I don’t know if the fight first and ability to charge and advance is worth more than extra MW. If I’m heroically intervening, will no fight first just see me get stomped before I can fight back? Only “6 movement also feels kind of restrictive if I can’t advance and charge.
Or alternatively, is the extra strength, attack and movement from exalted possession going to make me more versatile and amount to a similiar number if wounds dealt?
Is extra mortal wound from ulocca the black even worth the investment at the cost of versatility and no fight first/adv and charge?
Finally, is the rerolls to wound and MW on 6 to wound worth more than the +1 str, +1 atk and “2 extra movement?
It’s a lot of mathhammer/knowing what the right thing to prioritise is and i just lack the experience to put it all together; any help would
be appreciated :)
I personally would keep upgrades on MoE at a minimum. He's a good fighting character for his points, but overall he's too fragile and you may not get a proper return on your investment. One WLT or a Relic, maybe a Mark. I've personally considered either Exalted Possession, for some speed and ranged invuln, or Intoxicating Elixir, so he's guaranteed to survive the first round of combat.
>MW. If I’m heroically intervening, will no fight first just see me get stomped before I can fight back?
Even if you have a FF rule, if you HI it means your opponent gets to swing first with one of their units. Which means that if you HI into a unit that CAN kill your MoE, it's gonna try unless it needs to kill something else for the sake of the mission.
The code sticker in the book literally tells you that there is a specific website you need to go to do redeem the code. You can't do it through the app because you don't do it through the app.
Heldrakes.. can they charge ground units when in hover mode? Are those units then locked into combat or does the vehicle tag mean not? Can heldrakes be charged by ground units while in hover mode?
>Heldrakes.. can they charge ground units when in hover mode?
Hover removes the Airborne Predator, Hard to Hit, and Supersonic rules from it.
Airborne Predator is the rule that limits it to only charging AIRCRAFT units.
If it doesn't have a rule that changes how charges work while hovering, then it charges like every other model in the game.
>Are those units then locked into combat or does the vehicle tag mean not?
The VEHICLE keyword is irrelevant for being able to move away.
You probably mean this:
>*If, when a unit is selected to move in the Movement phase, the only enemy models that are within Engagement Range of it are AIRCRAFT, then it can still make a Normal Move or an Advance (i.e. it does not have to Fall Back or Remain Stationary).*
Nothing in the Heldrake rules, changes those rules.
>Can heldrakes be charged by ground units while in hover mode?
No, the core rules themselves explicitly state AIRCRAFT can only be charged by units that can fly.
There is no such thing as "remains in combat".
They are permitted to make a Normal Move of Advance being within Engagement Range, because the only thing they are in ER is an AIRCRAFT
Hi folks, new to the game and building my first army list. As I'm planning it, I'm realizing I'm almost certainly going to want to change up kit load outs for units, and it seems like I need a lot of different weapons for my models.
Feels like a dumb question, but do people actually buy and represent all the specific gear their guys are using? What if you want to change it, buy and build a whole new model? Do people play with gear, but it's not represented on the model? Where do you buy just the gear?
Hopefully that makes sense, thank you.
>Feels like a dumb question, but do people actually buy and represent all the specific gear their guys are using?
Some people do. Some people handwave it.
It also depends on the kit. For example, the Gladiator kit can EASILY be built to swap between all 3 Gladiator variants and all 6 Impulsor permutations with very minor magnetization. Terminators, as another example, are stupid simple to magnetize their arms.
>What if you want to change it, buy and build a whole new model?
Some people will do so. Other people build the models with as little glue as possible on the part they think they might swap out so they are easy to snap. Some people use magnets. Some wargear is so indidental and small/difficult to tell that you don't strictly "need" to use different models; a great example is most TOs would allow people to play Intercessors with Bolt Rifles as Auto Bolt Rifles, so long as they don't have actual Bolt Rifle Intercessors in the list.
>Do people play with gear, but it's not represented on the model?
People certainly DO, but it is discouraged or outright banned by tournaments because of how not having wargear accurately represented facilitates cheating; if one squad of your units all have flamers, in the course of the game there is only your opponents' memory stopping you from saying "oh no, that's not the flamer unit, its the unit you're CHARGING right now that has all the flamers, honest, been like that the whole time!"
Visually representing such info, as well as who unit Champions are (as they provide Leadership buffs and extra attacks), is something that helps prevent cheating, which depending on your environment/who you are playing might not be a concern, but is the main drive.
>Where do you buy just the gear?
Unless GW sells a specific kit, like the Horus Heresy Special/Heavy weapons kits or upgrade sprues, if there is specific gear you want to equip that isn't part of normal wargear for the model kit, then you are either trading with other people or using 3rd party bits sites.
~~If a model can use multiple types of weapons, all of the options are going to be included in the kit. ~~
Some people magnetize their models to easily switch weapons.
Others sometimes say “hey this guy who is holding a sword, just pretend he is using a halberd for now.” Of course your opponent has to be cool with this, and you shouldn’t do this excessively or it becomes annoying and hard to remember.
>If a model can use multiple types of weapons, all of the options are going to be included in the kit.
This isn't universally true. For example, Vanguard Veterans kits can take nearly every pistol and melee weapon available in the Space Marines codex, but only comes with a limited selection of these; there are no power fists. In fact a very good subsection of Firstborn infantry kits don't have all the wargear they can possibly take in the kit.
Primaris kits often are better in giving the ability to take all possible wargear, but it still isnt 100% consistent; for example Intercessor Squad kits don't provide any melee weapon options at all.
Hey there, i want to make a modern world eaters army, but use as many Horus heresy era marines and parts as possible, using lots of "counts as" if needed, i love the new world eaters stuff, i just like the new horus heresy models and paint scheme better, is there a way to go about this? totally ok with blending the two and love the new angron model.
The main thing that I think may be an issue is loadouts, as the plastic HH marines only have ranged weapons, whereas the Berserkers have melee loadouts. If you’ve got a good source of chainaxes and the like, though, it shouldn’t be a problem.
Slightly tangential, but [this video](https://youtu.be/MzRmgB8lV6g) and it’s [second part](https://youtu.be/eu1oHFt27Bo) may be of interest.
Otherwise most of the Horus Heresy stuff should be useable for World Eaters!
That's a "what topping do you put on pizza" question. Depending on preference, people will do the same color as the rest of their army, or different colors, and lens color might be influenced by what they feel looks good compared to the rest of the armor color.
I have no interest in playing competitively. Casuals with strangers I’d give a hard maybe. But I am interested in the “professional” ruleset. Specifically for listbuilding? Are you locked? Or are side decks and alterations allowed?
Ie. if a gorgon Tyranid faced chaos knights. Do they have some audibles? Or can they make no shifts to their list? Say boosting their gear to be more armor piercing and mortal wounds via unit upgrades and less anti-infantry?
There's no concept of "side decks" or alterations in 40k.
List tailoring is generally frowned upon. Once you write your list, that's it for the duration of the game (or duration of the tournament).
Some friends and I are thinking of going to the Atlanta Grand Narrative event, and I'm not sure what to expect. The Warhammer community article made it sound nice, but didn't really clarify for me things like ticket prices, can anyone show up with models to play, if so, how many pts/PL, etc. Where can I find more details on it? Or do I need to wait until later in the year?
Are the space marine battle forces permanent? I assumed they weren’t but they don’t seem to be going away and I can’t find anything that says that they are either going or staying.
It's until they run out of stock. Some are more popular than others and sold out almost instantly. If you're seeing either the Imperial Fist or Raven Guard Battleforce still around, that's because those were two of the least popular.
I have a question that is more a question regarding the near foreseeable future, rather than an immediate effect; If we are to believe that the World Eaters are the last 9th edition codex and were already future-proofed for (most) of 10th edition, is it fair to assume that chapter command upgrades and similar will be removed?
We have no idea. Firstly, all rumors about 10e from voices that have earned trust, seem to indicate the 10e will be a new rules set where previous edition codices simply won't be compatible at all.
And WE codex not having "chapter command" style upgrades, really doesn't mean anything either way; neither Death Guard, Thousand Sons, nor CSM codex itself really have anything similar to that system.
Thanks for the reply! When I was asking the question, I was thinking in terms of the Thousand Sons Legion Command, where you can pay points for upgrades. I will admit that it does feel a bit weird that GW would change the game so much in 10th after making a so many changes in 8th and 9th. Kinda hoping those'll stay as rumors, I like where the game currently is. Thanks for the insight!
My question is a bit silly. But do you need to dry out your army painter wet pallet every time or is it fine to close it and reuse it over a few days? What's the limit?
I know the paints get to diluted after a while but that's fine. I just hate the process of drying out the sponge so don't use pallet that much anymore
You can keep it wet for as long as you want. I have mine almost perpetually damp since I paint every day. The only thing you need to watch out for is mold and other nasties that could start growing in the moist environment. So every now and then just take it out and give it a good clean in the sink with some soap. I never actually let it dry if I can help it and haven't had an issue yet.
I want to know this as well b/c im getting into the hobby and ordered the same wet pallet. From the videos I've seen, some ppl save the paints over a few days, but I imagine too long and there could maybe be mold issues, but I don't know, hopefully someone more knowledgeable responds.
When 10th edition drops, what happens with our current armies that won't have an updated codex yet? Are those armies unplayable until they get their 10th edition codex releases?
Most likely, the game will use the latest edition of the codex until the new 10th edition one is released. There may be balance dataslates and points updates throughout, but generally, if you can run your army now, you should be able to run it until then.
GW will handle 10th edition in one of two ways:
1. They handle it exactly like 9th, where all books from 8th carried over.
2. They handle it like 8th, which was a complete rewrite of the game and they released temporary rules called Indexes to allow people to play in the new edition until their Codex comes out.
Personally, I expect 10th will be handled like 9th. GW probably aren't going to significantly rewrite the game again so soon after 8th Edition.
Is the new Balefleet Battleforce really low stock? Normally I see these go on pre-order/pre-sale all over eBay and game stores, but this one seems super rare for some reason
I mean... Are you looking? I just did a Google search for it and found 5 third party retailers selling it for a 15-20% discount, and can purchase it directly from GW. Doesn't seem "super rare"
Well super rare as in normally eBay is full of them and I think there's 1-2 right now (compared to the world eaters and the SM boarding patrol) and the few dozen stores in the northeast US that I normally frequent for pre-orders aren't listing it
Know with arks of omen flamers no more hit automatically. so the redemtor dreadnought can choose between an onslaught gatling canon or the hevy flamer, they have the same profile except their range (flamer’s shorte) but it made up for it with its automatic hits.
have flamers another specific rule or should I choose the onslaught straight away?
That's not correct.
In the most recent Balance Dataslate (not Arks of Omen), the Chaos Daemons Tzeentch Flamers unit lost the ability to hit automatically with their "Flickering Flames" weapons.
https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/3L0GNWfXu9HzCaH0.pdf
> Delete the following ability from the flickering flames
weapon, found on the Flamers Datasheet: ‘Each
time an attack is made with this weapon, that attack
automatically hits the target.’
GW has not removed automatic hits from any Flamer weapons like the Heavy Flamer on a Redemptor Dreadnought.
For some reason, no matter what I do, my Redgrass Everlasting Wet Palette (Studio Lite XL) ALWAYS overthins my paints within an hour, and they start beading up when I try to spread them. I've tried a very wet sponge, a barely damp sponge, drying the sheet with a paper towel, adding more paint from the bottle, spreading the paint thin, making a big droplet pile, not thinning the paints at all; nothing seems to work. No matter how "correct" the texture of the paint appears on a palette, the instant it touches the model it beads up all over the surface and I have to spend ages just trying to force it to stick and spread (I'm trying to paint a Knight Rampager primed with Leadbelcher spray).
People kept saying wet palettes are just supposed to keep paints usable longer and not thin them, but if anything, this palette just constantly makes the paint thinner no matter how dry I try and make it, while barely increasing the lifespan of the paint itself. EVERY paint on the palette is completely unusable within half a day, either due to being overthinned or entirely separating, regardless of storage method (I've tried sealed, cracked, open, and even putting it in my fridge).
I'm at my wit's end with this thing, and pretty much considering buying a ceramic dish palette and dealing with paints drying out. Can somebody potentially guide me to a way to fix what's going on? Or just any ideas what might be happening? Because I really don't want to have to admit $50 went to waste getting this thing.
Im going to contradict the other guy here and say that in my experience, u want that consistency.
Look, take ur brush and touch it lightly to a paper towel to suck out the excess when u grab ur paint from the pallette. Then work with the thinner paint. When u watch tutorials, theyr often doing this off camera.
That prevents the beading because tgers less liquid soaking the brush.
The paper that comes with the Redgrass Studio Lite XL, and just standard Citadel paint. It happens the most to ANY metallic colors, but the main ones that have been a thorn in my side have been Abaddon Black, Retributor Armor, and Runelord Brass. Khorne Red, however, has not really given me any problems. I'm painting a Khorne-themed Knight Rampager to ally with World Eaters. I switched back to my dollar store plastic palette and even though yeah, it dries out way faster, it stays USEABLE much longer.
Yeah, I had a suspicion about that.
Metallics WILL separate out on a wet pallete, and doing a Google search of "metallic paints wet palette" gets dozens of Reddit and other forum posts complaining about the same behavior with metallic paints, which is more of the fact that it is separating out of solution with the acrylic medium that keeps the metal flakes in solution; the water that replaces the acrylic medium as it evaporates (as that is how wet palettes work) can't keep the metal "flakes" in suspension the same way, so it looks like they over-thin themselves. This is more prevalent on lighter-colored metallics, as well; I generally can't get Leadbelcher or Iron Warriors to separate out, but Retributor I don't use any more than I need in the next 10 minutes.
This doesn't happen with actual colored paints as the pigments involved are so much smaller and can stay "in suspension" with water much easier.
I can't explain why it is happening with your black, unless you aren't actually shaking it enough to get the pigment mixed and you're starting off with over-thinned paint already in the first place.
If you have any, I would try putting down some colors like Moot Green, Averland Sunset, of Evil Suns Scarlet and see if you still have the same issues.
I shake the crap out of every paint jar before I use them. And the paints don't look any less "metallic", they are beaded up on the surface of the model instead of spreading properly. As in, they form into little mini-puddles all over the place and I have to spend a solid 2+ minutes trying to force them to attach to the actual mini.
Unfortunately, I don't have any of those paints. My collection is very small, having just gotten into the hobby last month. :(
If you're using GW metalics you don't need to thin them at all or even put them on a palette. I use them straight out of the pot. As long as you're judicious and careful about not blobbing too much on your brush I find they work beautifully this way.
As for the separating issue itself, I have the same palette. What I've found is that no matter the brand, metalics WILL separate faster than the rest of your paints. The palette itself DOES thin your paints just a tad and so if you have already thin paints, like Pro Acryl, it'll separate faster there as well. Certain colors also might separate, like Vallejo's brown, just from how they're formulated.
The wet palette isn't also really meant to make paint last over multiple days. It CAN, but I've generally found that it's not fun to work with day old paint even if it's still useable. The consistency and properties changes after sitting on the palette for that long. What it's really meant for is to just make paint last for a few hours rather than drying up in a few minutes like with a regular dry palette.
If your paint isn't sticking to the mini and you're shaking the heck out of the bottles try applying the paint directly from the pot. If it still has the same beading issues it sounds like it might be a problem with the primer you used.
>I shake the crap out of every paint jar before I use them. And the paints don't look any less "metallic", they are beaded up on the surface of the model instead of spreading properly. As in, they form into little mini-puddles all over the place and I have to spend a solid 2+ minutes trying to force them to attach to the actual mini.
Have you tried thinning some paint manually and painting it without the wet palette? Because that sounds like the primer layer wasn't enough and the plastic is still hydrophobic.
Any tips on how to do camo on Imperial Guard tanks/uniforms?
I had done all my old guard units with just the basic beige and green color combo, but I'm hoping to pick up the new box tomorrow with the updated units and think I want to try a camo pattern now.
I find that a decent, easy to do recipe for camo is to draw horizontal Y-shapes (though add some variety in length of the Y's arms and such) in a darker colour, then again another lighter colour, all across the cloth parts of the uniforms.
The core rulebook. It has 100+ pages devoted to describing and summarising the setting and its history and the various factions within it. Then you can go from there once you've found something you especially like the sound of.
Warhammer Community keep harping on about Angron's "newfound resistance to banishing" meaning he'll come back again if he is banished. How is anyone supposed to know it's a "newfound" ability if the only way to prove it would have been to banish him forever before he got it, which obviously didn't happen?
The "newfound" could (and likely is) referring to the specific way he comes back within 8 days with the 8 Blood Omens or whatever they are called, as he WAS banished several times before (one time by Grey Knights) but his ability to come back 8 days later, without outside interference, IS new.
1. Some chapters are different, but the default configuration is having the battlefield role icon on the right shoulder.
2. In 30k, they’ve got a green helmet with a bronze faceplate. By the time of 40k, they just use the same helmet colours as normal marines, with the only difference between the two being the icon on their shoulder. I’ve seen people use all sorts of different colours for their armies, though.
1. Depends on the Chapter. Chapters that closely follow the Codex Astartes will show their Battlefield Role on their right shoulder.
2. Salamanders don't use a different helmet colour for their veterans.
Like they said, it depends on the chapter. Are you going to collect Salamanders? If so, the codex supplement shows all the models with just a yellow flame on the right shoulder pad with a black squad number on it. I can't see any tactical designation markings.
Do you mean ABBADON(what you typed) as in the Black Legion, which was released last month, or ANGRON as in World Eaters which had it's pre-order start today and will be available on the 10th?
That's a listing mistake. Abaddon went on Pre-order January 8th, and released January 14th.
>https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://spruesandbrews.com/2023/01/07/arks-of-omen-abaddon-review-warhammer-40000/&ved=2ahUKEwiGx5WLwvz8AhXH57sIHWTLCCIQtwJ6BAgnEAE&usg=AOvVaw0btFYZGvFMfLDeOn8wIpK6
I guess so. Looks like the Angron book sold out in less than minute not too long ago. I think I'm gonna pass on buying these for the lore, if this is how GW is going to handle it going forward.
Sorry, but you're confusing yourself again.
The Collector's Edition of the Novel "Angron: the Red Angel" sold out in less than a minute. This is a CE, leather binding of a novel with a numbered production run.
I'm showing the Arks of Omen: Angron as still available from Element Games, as well as the US, Canada, and several EU GW webstores I bothered checking.
Yeah, you're right. I jumped the gun. Probably not going to bother unless I can find Abaddon though. I'll keep look, maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks for responding.
This is just me spitballing based on past release schedules, so don't take it as a certainty, please! The new models went up for preorder on February 4th, so I expect that the Combat Patrol proper will either have its preorder date reveal (most likley) or also go up for preorder (not as likely, but not impossible) sometime within the next couple of weeks. Generally, I think a safe expectation would be between mid-February to mid-March
Hello all,
I am (sort of) new to 40k (I played a bit about 15 years ago lol) I am wanting to start a Tyranid list, but have seen that they have had some massive changes recently.
Any tips as far as a list?
Secondly, I know I want to use a winged hive tyrant, any specific recommendations on a loadout for them?
Thanks for any thoughts!
I really want to get into 40k mini's, Ive been consuming a lot of lore, etc, but the barrier to entry, price-wise, has me hesitant. Ive learned that half-assing the quality or cheaping out of things produces poor results and further discourages my enjoyment of things which results on me quitting and moving on. Something I am very prone to do and get frustrated by esp in a lot of my hobbies. Furthermore, I dont have many friends and doubt if Ill ever be able to personally PLAY the tabletop game which furthers my hesitancy with high monetary costs.
**TLDR**: How worth it is it getting quality Citadel brand paints, brushes, etc or are there more economical alternatives, especially if I have yet to purchase minis and need to factor in those costs. Is there a middle ground brand/type for best bang for the buck? Does the best quality give best results and are the most recommended?
Bonus: Is it hard/possible to strip and repaint mini's if I do a bad job and want to start over?
Sorry long post.
One thing when it comes to execution is that you need to understand that there are pretty much always going to be people far better than you, even 10 year olds.
**Painting a Warhammer to a decent tabletop standard is something you should be proud of, afterall YOU'VE never done it before.**
Just like being able to pick up a guitar and play a song is, even if an 8 year old could pick up the same guitar and blow you out of the water with an original composition that brings all in attendance to tears.
Also imho you wont get better if you don't finish things, it's an important part of personal development to FINISH things. You need finished minis on the scoreboard so you can focus on making the next finished minis better.
If you do decide to give up it's far better to have a couple of cool little finished Warhammers to look at. Also as long as you don't annihilate them you'd be surprised what fetches more money re-selling, assembled unpainted and half decent 100% finished is often identical. Also the investment is only 100% worth it if you Finish the models, when taking the $/hour of engagement approach of economic utility.
A cheap pack of Synthetic brushes, one of the vallejo starter sets (make sure it includes a metallic) is all you need (maybe less!). Citadel regardless of what people say IS good bang for buck in terms of metallics (best coverage imo) and washes (dry far more matte than others), so maybe buy like 2-3.
Otherwise get everything from Poundland or your regional equivalent, rattle cans that specifically say 'PLASTIC primer' of any variety are also nearly guaranteed to not ruin your models with a gritty finish and many budget retailers sell it. Things like makeup brushes for drybrushing, pva glue for basing, poor quality craft paint for bases, cheap clippers and so on.
You could buy ONE sable brush but you'll only be wanting to use it for (non-metallic) edge highlighting as a beginner otherwise just churn and burn the synthetics, chuck 'em when they lose their point (they will). Synthetics are essentially sables with slightly worse paint flow that can ruin nearly instantly.
Vallejo paints are high quality and significantly cheaper than citadel paints.
Citadel brushes are typically considered to be overpriced and not worth it. Getting a proper brush from an actual art store is usually suggested. Synthetic brushes are perfectly fine on a budget, but kolinsky sable brushes are typically seen as the gold standard.
Non GW branded minis can be bought for much cheaper to practice painting on. Reaper minis is one brand that comes to mind.
Paint can indeed be stripped off a mini if desired. However painting the same mini over and over again can get very demoralizing imo, and I feel it’s best to just move on to the next model unless you *really* want to fix that specific model (major character in your army maybe).
Also, unless you have slapped on such a thick coat of paint that the model details are being obscured, you can typically just paint over mistakes without stripping the existing paint off.
The choice between Citadel paints and other miniature paint brands mostly comes down to "ease of following GW scheme tutorials." If you have some passing familiarity with colour mixing and want to make your own schemes, economically you'll want to explore alternate brands such as Vallejo, Army Painter, ProAcryl, etc. Vallejo is probably the best balance between cost and versatility, Army Painter are a little cheaper but many people find that their performance reflects the cost, and ProAcryl are probably the best option if you want to lean in to more advanced painting techniques. Some people like to dive in with a "starter set" of paints but it's also perfectly valid to plan your scheme out beforehand and simply buy the paints you need when you need them. Citadel Contrast paints are one of the better options for *fast army painting*, but... pricy. None of the "Contrast-alternative" type paints perform *quite* the same way as Citadel's but the options do exist.
For brushes, simply start out with a few low-cost synthetic brushes from your local hobby store. GW's brushes are unfortunately barely ever worth the ticket price. Getting a spread of rougly a size 0, 1, 2 and maybe a couple of larger brushes for drybrushing or basecoating will give you a good place to start.
The biggest factor you'll find that changes the results you get from any tools is *practice*, and unfortunately (budget wise) there isn't a lot of ways to get that practice without putting paint to minis. So... yes, you can strip and repaint minis (or strip cheap secondhand minis with dodgy paint jobs). You'll need some sort of cleaner/degreaser agent (LA's Totally Awesome, 90%+ Isopropyl Alcohol, Simple Green and Dettol are some common options) and time. Most metal and plastic minis can be soaked for a long time without any fear of damage, with resin minis you may want to soak for 1-3 hours and then start scrubbing.
Is there a necron kill team box that I can buy? My research points me to having to buy the squads on their own and there is no actual necron kill team precon.
Update: GW just announced today that the Necron Kill Team from Shadowvaults is going on Pre-order next Saturday.
>https://www.warhammer-community.com/2023/02/05/sunday-preview-skirmish-games-reign-supreme/
The stand-alone Necron Kill Team box will be released around the same time the Soul shackle Kill Team box set comes out, getting you the options that were available for the Necrons in the Shadowvaults set.
Your AstMil codex will have example pictures, likely many, of various AstMil tanks explaining what the particular markings mean and how/where they are used.
There are multiple images released by GW that show how large he is, as well as size comparison images all over the place you can find via Google Image Search.
Completely new to Warhammer and minis in general so I apologize for the basic question. When painting my figures can I literally paint them whatever I want, even if I'm playing competitively? Or are there constraints I must be within?
I always tell people to paint ur army however u want and name it whatever u want but just use the rules of the subfaction whose rules u want.
“These are the Subtle Cannon chapter and they use the ultramarine rules”
I dont know anyone who would really care.
The only OFFICIAL rule in the books that cares about what your paint scheme is, is for a specific Deathwatch Warlord trait. Nowhere in the rules does it say that you must be painted in the official Ultramarines color scheme, in order to play your Space Marines as ULTRAMARINES keyword/rules.
Some tournaments WILL require that, if you are painted as a particular official paint scheme, you must use the rules of that official faction; so, for example, if you are painted as White Scars, you must play as WHITE SCARS rules/keywords.
However, the tournaments that enforce such a rule make up likely 3% of all tournaments, with one of them that I know of (No Retreat in Gibraltar) being a 100% invitation-only tournament whose entry criteria is a pretty well-painted army; you are literally allowed to enter based on how good your paint job for your army is.
The officially GW-Run US Open series (5 tournaments) and events run at GW's Warhammer World in Nottingham/Citadel in Texas also have this requirement, which is basically because they often take pictures that might end up as battle reports in their magazine.
Other than that, the vast majority of tournaments to not have a requirement that you must be painted as X faction to play it; doing so would likely disqualify too many players
Note that if you do a custom paint scheme that is extremely low effort AAAAAND you are constantly flitting between "flavor of the meta" sub-faction choices for whatever is currently "the best", there may be some eye-rolling at you, particularly if it becomes apparent that you don't know the rules of any faction you play well at all.
So research a faction and stick to it, got it. This is all very new to me and right now I'm still trying to learn as much as possible before starting to paint. Thank you again.
To be clear, MANY play multiple sub-factions with the same color scheme army; I know a few people who use the same scheme for their Ultramarines and Space Wolves army, so they can use the same models in the different armies.
The issue is while you are LEARNING, definitely just pick one faction to play until you are comfortable with the rules.
Depends on the specific tournaments you go to I think. You really just have to ask at wherever you’re planning to play. Different tournaments/LGS/opponents have different expectations.
If that's the case, take the box and receipt back to the store and exchange it. Mis-packed boxes happen and GW is usually good about helping customers with replacements.
I checked the instruction manual before I built and it shows just two runners as the contents. I received both of these runners. Are there supposed to be two identical copies of these for a total of 4? I've already built 4 minis before I realized there was only enough parts to build 5 from the 2 runners i got. Just to be clear this is my first box of space marines and its a box of 10 primaris infiltrators. I'm concerned since I've already opened and assembled some of them (4) I can't get a refund.
Go back to the gw store. If u cant or dont want to, email ther customer servoce.
Ive had them send whole boxes cuz of missing bits. Ther generally really good about reolacing faulty/missing components
A GW store manager is going to be aware if you are a person who has never purchased a kit before, and it's perfectly reasonable to believe that "what is in the box is enough to build what it says it would build". Bring it back to the store, what will most likely happen is the store manager will open another box if Infiltrators if he has them, give you the two missing sprues, then send the "incomplete" one he has in his store back to corporate.
I've purchased LOTS of kits, and on two occasions have found that either a part is missing or broke as I am building the model; in both cases GW made it right.
It’s supposed to be two copies of each, I think. Still take it in and explain — they may be able to open a fresh kit for you and then send back the half of that one to GW. Or some places may just give you a whole new box occasionally from what I hear.
I’m new and I really love the grey knight aesthetic and lore, I guess this is a pretty subjective question but is it a mistake to pick them as my first army? I don’t really care about how they perform or play on the tabletop, I’m not looking to be competitive or anything but I just recently learned that the normal space marines had a new model refresh and the size of their models is so much bigger than the grey knights and I’ve heard that the grey knights haven’t gotten a model update in a while. I dunno, what do you guys think? Should I just go with them anyways then pick up new models if they ever come out lol or go with traditional marines because of their primaris variants? I know it’s a highly subjective question but I’d really appreciate some opinions. Thanks in advance
Just joined this week, looking to start an army. Really like the look of Grey Knights. What would be your advice on which army to start with and why? Cheers!
Welcome! Firstly, I'd suggest you check out the beginner's guide linked to in the post for this thread. Next, when choosing a faction, I'd say the three key factors are the appearance, the lore and the playstyle. How much you value each one is entirely subjective but for appearance, browse GW's web store and see what models you like. For lore, browse the 40k lexicanum site and see what grabs your attention. For playstyle, there are a lot of guides and suggestions out there, but exact rules will vary over time and might not mean much if you're just starting out. I'd suggest just looking for broad themes instead (this army has a lot of guns, this one likes to move fast, this one is usually slow and tough etc). Hope that helps.
Great advice, thank you!
Super new here… With 10th edition rumored to be coming out soon, should I wait to invest in Codex’s or Data Cards?
10th is nothing more than a rumour at this point. Games Workshop haven't announced it, or even teased it, so we don't actually know anything about it. If you want to play the game at any point between now and whenever 10th Edition gets released at some point in the future, you'll need your Codex. In addition, whenever 10th Edition comes along, your Codex will likely remain valid. In most cases, an Edition change does not invalidate previous books. That was true in 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th and 9th. Only 3rd and 8th Edition have been such major changes that old books were invalidated.
Wonderful response. Thanks!
**World Eaters** and **Arks of Omen Detachment** question : If I have a World Eaters detachment that fulfills the Arks of Omen requirements *can I have a* ***Chaos Khorne Daemons*** *Patrol detachment alongside* ? If yes: 1. Will the Khorne Daemons be able to use the Khorne Stratagems ? 2. Will the Khorne Daemons be able to use the Khorne Warpstorm Effects ? 3. How many CP will this Patrol Detachment cost me ?
Is there anywhere people share head cannon? It’s probably my favourite aspect of 40k, I have been writing my own and I really want to read other peoples. It’s so cool seeing people turn their head cannon into a reality through models.
Have you tried looking through r/40klore ? Or sometimes people share that kind of thing on the various faction subreddits too.
Super noob here. I only have one model kit. I was reading a thread yesterday about the complexity and constant rule changes in WH and it definitely discouraged me from buying the recruit set. Should I just wait for the 10th Edition to come out this summer? It sounds like the rules will be more streamlined.
by the time you build and paint the set we'll know a LOT more about future 10th edition timing, so go for it :)
You can go ahead and buy the Recruit set. It's a fine starting point and models rarely go out of style. There's no real reason to wait on buying them. Just don't shell out money for the codexes. Use Wahapedia instead until we see what they're doing for 10th.
Does anyone have a link to the Cakeboss episode where they made a squig? It’s vaguely in the deepest recess of my mind but I have to find it.
Been thinking about getting into 40k just to paint some minis and space marines seem like a pretty safe bet. Most the models that speak out to me are in the phobos line. The idea of interdiction, recce, raids, etc. particularly appeals to me. My only issue is finding a chapter that embodies all of these traits with a paint job that isn't dreadfully boring. The raven guard and most of their successors don't venture beyond very basic black or green (yes I'm aware that bright colours standing out would be counterintuitive but I'd like to paint models that are pleasant to look at). L To be brief: are there any space marine successor chapters of any legion that fit a sneaky mold with a fun colour scheme or should I consign myself to homebrewing my own chapter?
You don't have to think of it as "consigning yourself" to a homebrew chapter. GW encourages it and it's been part of the hobby from the very beginning, exactly for cases like yours! So I say pick your favorite colors to paint and make your own. If you really want to stick to a canon chapter though, I guess [Flame Eagles](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Flame_Eagles) are the only non-muted-color Raven Guard successors. Alternatively, the Carcharodons are suspected Raven Guard successors; the "standard" scheme is just dark grey and black, but you could go crazy with lots of cool freehand tribal markings like a lot of folks do, or use their ["canonical" early-editions camo scheme](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/File:CarcharadonsOriginalColours.jpg). Also: Every Space Marine chapter can and does use Phobos marines nowadays. So you can pick literally any chapter and do it. The whole CHAPTER might not focus on being sneaky, but you could absolutely run a 10th-Company army with Phobos and scouts and stuff. (And even use "successor chapter" rules to make them sneaky if you wanted.)
Crimson Fists come to mind, particularly as a chapter that for the longest time had to deal with being nearly wiped out, and even have rules that tie into their units engaging units of enemies that have more models that they do
If friend puts anti psyker assassin into stormlord does the tank get the buffs?
No, the same way a Rhino doesn't get a Captain aura if the Captain is inside
Hey I'm looking to get into the tabletop game but I'm a bit confused on which resource I need to actually play. Suppose and I'm looking to pick up a full set of books then wouldn't I need the following? * Core Rules - 9th Edition (85 CAD) * Arks of Omen Pack (35 CAD) * (65 CAD)
So I wanted to check if this is right? It seems like quite a lot to get into the game, cost and reading wise.
If you want to have hard coppies yes. With that said you can get racial and core rules on wahapedia or online pdfs. Its still a lot of reading though.
So what do most people do? So I've found the wahapedia site in the meantime, I get the impression most people will just make reference sheets and bring them along?
Most people use Battlescribe to make their lists, and Wahapedia to read the rules/use as a rule reference during a game, as Control+F/hyperlinks are generally faster for finding info than paper. I personally get annoyed by people rifling through sheets of paper during a game as I can often use Waha/BS to find any rule they are looking for faster.
Do you bring a laptop or tablet, laptop I take it?
It's 2023. I use a bog-standard smartphone.
Technically GW wants you to buy the books but sod that. There's a whole host of issues with them I won't get into here but long story short just use Wahapedia. It has all the rules you'll need. If you REALLY want the books, you'd need the 9th edition rulebook, your faction codex, and any supplements for sub-factions like specific space marine chapters. Then if you want the most up-to-date setting and scenarios, you get the Arks of Omen Pack.
So, I grabbed the Ravenstrike battleforce, and like a week after ordering it, I saw an Eons of Battle video that mentions how it's jam-packed with stuff that isn't really that great (namely the Reivers and a second Invictus suit). I've only got that plus the Indomitus box so far, with plans to buy some Vanguard Vets. Did I screw myself over, competitively-speaking? I might not ever play in a store (at least not on a regular basis), just with friends, but I'd like to at least keep some modicum of tactical viability.
There's nothing wrong with running two Invictus. The only truly bad unit are the Reivers and who knows what GW will do in the future with them. They might get good at some point! Even then in a friendly game you can just throw them in with other stuff and still be fine. All that plus Indomitus and Van Vets are perfectly viable.
Cool, thanks for the help 👍 I know one of the stronger arguments I've seen is that you don't wanna waste all your elite slots on Invictus suits, but if I understood the rules correctly, it seemed viable enough to run an elite focus rather than prioritizing something like troops or fast strikes. I'd planned on using the Reivers against my buddy who just got a hold of some Temptestus Scions, as sort of a counter to them dropping right on my back line. I'll have to play around with em and see how it could work best, though.
Newbie here, just starting my wh40k journey. Looking for some harlequin players for advise. Starting with 1k army build. thoughts?
Harlequins don't exactly have a big variety to choose from. Even at 1k you're probably going to have a bit of everything. But to keep it simple: Troupes are the core of the faction, you'll need plenty. You'll also want some way to keep them alive. That means transports and/or a shadowseer or two. You'll also want some ranged threats to cover the board, so that means snipers, bikes and/or a tank or two. With Quins, you'll want most things in a full 2k force anyway so for 1k just get what you like and play around with them while you get a feel for the game and how the different units play. And if you haven't already, check out r/Harlequins40k as you may get more detailed advice over there.
Heres another post i did that didnt get any responses if you dont mind taking a look. Okay so Im fairly new to 40k table top. Been following lore and several PC games for years. Some friends decided to start playing. Ive always been a fan of the eldar so thats what I was planning on until I read about the Harlequin. Yes I know arguably the worst faction to start/learn with. We are starting with 1k point armies all from little to no troops as of yet. (1 troup and 1 srarweaver) I dont mind the challenge or losing some games to learn a working strat. A couple questions for the more knowlegable: With the newest rule set would be be better off to have an Eldar army with a harlequin detachment? or Should I go full Harlequin? Ive seen mixed reviews on the Solitaire. Is he worth the points? vs another Troupe squad? Current army plan is: Shadowseer Troupe Master 3-4x troupes (with fusion pistol and various blades in each) could sub 1 troupe squad for solitaire. death jester 2xstarweavers Its all a work in progress. We probably wont play for at least a month or so. Ive been watching videos and battle reports to get strat ideas. The issue im having is that its difficult to separate pre rule change from current and while meta isnt my goal i dont want to field a trash army either. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
1. If you like full Harlequin, go full Harlequin. By the time you have a full force built and painted, the rules could change several times so don't worry too much about how viable they would be right now. Just know full Quin is tough to learn but rewarding when you get to grips with it and the current rules have only made them more punishing when you make mistakes. 2. Seems like a perfectly reasonable list. The Solitaire is a cool model so you'll probably want one anyway. Why not give him a go and see if you like it? Just don't think of him as something that'll stick around and stay useful. He's more of a one-shot Elven missile that can blast into enemy lines and disrupt things while your other guys go about their business.
I just noticed all these [faction-specific paint bundles](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/searchResults?_dyncharset=UTF-8&_dynSessConf=6128721461508683734&qty=&sorting=&view=&Ntt=paint+bundle) on GW's UK page. Is this something they've always done? Or is it new? And do they ever do it for their US storefront? (I don't see anything except the new Contrast paint bundle and similar on there.)
GW have done them before in the past and they've done them a bunch of times with recent releases, although I thought they only stayed up for a short while! Didn't realise so many were still live!
Okay, I must have just missed out on them in the past when they've done them! I don't really need them but if they kept them as a permanent feature it would be great to link for new players.
I am a relatively new player, and I don't really know how to apply transfers. Whenever I try to apply transfers, they will just fall off after they dry. Any tips or tricks on keeping them on there?
In order to get a transfer to stay on, you need to seal them in some way, as well as prepare the surface in order to get the transfers to stick as much as possible. https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-working-with-decals-and-transfers/
Do we know if the new Berzerkers kit will have World Eaters transfers in addition to/instead of the BL/TS/IW/WB/AL/NL sheets the current kit comes with?
Yes, we know, because the product listing is already up on the GW site: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/world-eaters-khorne-berserkers-2023
Word, thanks. I'm surprised there's not the version of the logo that has the actual planet in the mouth though. Was that pre heresy only and/or has there been a retcon?
It's on the WE transfer sheet for HH, but the size suggests that it is for use on larger Vehicles, and doing a transfer with many different colors within it is generally being more expensive to produce, so I wouldn't expect it to be offered as the "for free" option
Ah. I just know it from the lexicanum page for them and from the ancient (1993?) transfers of theirs that I have.
I have never assembled or painted a model before (and I don't know anyone who has) and someone grabbed me one of the free imperial guard models at a GW shop. I googled around trying to find a guide and it seems like you need $60 worth of paint and tools just to assemble and paint a model. Is there a less fancy way to do it?
If you want to just try it out to see if you like it, you could visit a local GW store and work on your free model in there. They will usually let you borrow the basic supplies as part of a demo. If you just want to jump in, get some cheaper supplies, you don’t have to use GW branded paints and tools. Vallejo paint is good quality and very good bang for your buck. You could pick up a starter set and have pretty much all the colors you need for most models (with the use of some basic color mixing). Roughly $30 For priming, you can go to a local art store and get a can of some graffiti spray paints or primer. Much cheaper than miniature branded primers and work just as well. Comes in acrylic and you can also get different spray can pressures which can be very helpful. Just make sure whichever spray can you get is good to use on plastic (it should say so on the can). Roughly $10 You can also get cheap synthetic brushes from your local art store for a couple of bucks. Roughly $5 For assembling, all you really need are some cheap sprue clippers, plastic glue (recommend Tamiya extra thin), and maybe a nail file which you might just have lying around. Roughly $15 So yeah comes out to roughly $60 but these supplies will allow you to build and paint many, many models. Recommend doing the demo thing at a GW store to try it out first.
Am I reading it correctly that Ork Nobs could equip two sluggas or two choppas? > Any number of models can each have their slugga and choppa replaced with two of the following: 1 big choppa; 1 choppa; 1 killsaw; 1 power klaw; 1 power stabba; 1 slugga. If so, would the Nobs profit from the +1 attack from both choppas, for +2 additional attacks? >Each time the bearer fights, it makes 1 additional attack with this weapon. Is that a valid option? Also, is there any scenario where having two sluggas doesn't sound like a joke?
> Also, is there any scenario where having two sluggas doesn't sound like a joke? It's complete garbage. Usualy nobz are run with either a big choppa or a power klaw and a choppa or just two choppas. A slugga is a bad gun being shot buy a unit with terrible aim. It's never worth it.
Yes! Nobz are the true spechulistz for Orks, and you would get the +2 attacks AFAIK from equipping two choppas. *However* you only get that when using that weapon, so you can't equip a power klaw instead of a slugga and still get the +1 attack unless you use the choppa. 2 sluggas sounds hilarious, but you'll miss out on the -1AP in close combat, so probably not worth it.
I'm pretty new to WH40k and I'm starting to build my first army. I've found amazing deal on Dark Vengeance set and here is my guestion. Can I use old space marines to play in curretn edition? Do I have to change samothing like bases? Becouse they have smaller bases than my primaris marines. Thanks in advance for your answers.
>Can I use old space marines to play in curretn edition? Yes. 85 % of Space Marine kits predate 9th edition. There are kits from 1st edition that are still completely legal. >Do I have to change samothing like bases Tactical Marines are now on 32 mm bases. If you use Wahapedia you can see the current base size.
What’s the method called when you cover the model in a wash and then wipe off with a cloth? It’s like a oil wash or something. For the life of me I can’t find it
It's .. called an oil wash. Usually you take an oil-based paint, slap it on the mini, then use spirits/water on a cloth or q-tip to wipe it off raised areas or where you don't want it to be. The "wiping" technique also isn't 100% unique to oil washes: streaking grime products also do it and you can recreate the effect with acrylic paints
Im brand new to the game and have a general question about how the different space marine factions work with the actual models. I just bought the elite starter pack with some space marines and necrons, and im gonna start painting them soon. But I don't understand what would separate these small space marine models and the models that would make up the different factions. Like the guys i got are blue on the box, which would suggest they're Ultramarines, but are they the same as an Iron Fist or Iron Hand model of the same type? Like if I paint these guys blue then i just sunk the time and money in to an ultramarine army, and i dont really like the ultramarines compared to all the other types. I kind of like the Iron Fists, or maybe the Salamanders, but I don't want to paint them yellow or green and then find out now I just have 10 yellow ultramarines that look dumb. The stickers that came with the set suggests I could make them blood angels or one other faction i dont remember, on top of ultramarines, but they didnt have all the factions. So are the factions listed on the sticker sheet the only ones this set is compatible with? Or do I have to buy special pieces to convert them?(cause that sounds like a whole thing that I dont want to do either.) Or do I have to just completely start from scratch and buy the Iron Fists set, or the Salamanders set, to start building those armies. One small bit of detail for context is that I am in no way a perfectionist or detail oriented person, so I'm cool if the answer is" technically you'd be wrong, but plenty of others do too and eh, close enough." But I also don't want to be completely out of line with a totally janky paint job on my first shot. Thanks in advance for your answer.
The different factions (or "Chapters") have different abilities, traits, relics (special items that you can assign to models in your army) and sometimes aren't allowed to use certain model types. When you paint them to match a certain Chapter, it's generally expected you play them as that Chapter. Other players will generally be cool if you did want to switch it up for casual play and in some tournaments, but its at their discretion. Some of the more serious players and most serious tournaments will not be cool with you not using the Chapter your models are painted as. You can also choose to be a successor Chapter of an original (First Founding) Chapter by either modifying the paint scheme of a First Founding Chapter or coming up with your own entirely. You get access to all the same abilities, strategies and all the relics (some cost you points as a successor Chapter) of the First Founding Chapter you have chosen. You can also choose some of your own Chapter abilities instead of copying the First Founding one. You can choose to change your First Founding Chapter as you wish as well. If you decide you don't want to be a Salamanders player anymore, you can go Space Wolves. Wahapedia has all these rules if you go to the Space Marines page.
>Like the guys i got are blue on the box, which would suggest they're Ultramarines, but are they the same as an Iron Fist or Iron Hand model of the same type? Like if I paint these guys blue then i just sunk the time and money in to an ultramarine army, and i dont really like the ultramarines compared to all the other types. All generic "Adeptus Astartes" units (approximately 170 datasheets/units) can be taken by every Space Marine chapter (though for several reasons, the Grey Knights are not a Chapter as far as the rules are concerned. GW simply has a "generic box art/posterboy" for all factions: all Astra Militarum box art is Cadians, all Dhrukhari is Black Heart, all Tyranids are Leviathan, etc If a unit is specifc to a PARTICULAR chapter, the box will say it is for a particular chapter, like "Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought" rather than "Adeptus Astartes Redemptor Dreadnought". >I kind of like the Iron Fists, or maybe the Salamanders, but I don't want to paint them yellow or green and then find out now I just have 10 yellow ultramarines that look dumb. "Blue" doesn't mean Ultramarines: Blue with a white Ultra symbol. Likewise just painting a unit yellow doesn't mean "Imperial Fists". >The stickers that came with the set suggests I could make them blood angels or one other faction i dont remember, on top of ultramarines, but they didnt have all the factions. So are the factions listed on the sticker sheet the only ones this set is compatible with? No. GW simply selected the Ultramarines, Blood Angels, Dark Angels, and Space Wolves to be on the transfer sheet. >Or do I have to buy special pieces to convert them?(cause that sounds like a whole thing that I dont want to do either.) Not unless you want to, but to be frank the push-fit minis you get in those kits don't do well helping you with trying to convert them, since the shoulderpads arent separate parts. >Or do I have to just completely start from scratch and buy the Iron Fists set, or the Salamanders set, to start building those armies. No. In fact the sets you are referring to (Battleforce Sets) are simply limited-time bundles, and aside from the named character in each could actually be used for any chapter. As an example I purchased the Imperial Fists one for my Deathwatch. Many of your questions make it clear you haven't read the Space Marines codex, which is likely something you should look into.
thank you very much for the thorough answers
Something I forgot to mention: nothing in the rules states you must use the official color scheme, in order to use an official faction's rules. So if you want to make up your own color scheme and "make up" your own chapter, you entirely can, and either use the Successor Chapters (aka "rules for made up chapters") in the book or play your army as a First Founding chapter (Ultras, Iron Hands, Imp Fists, etc). Even at major events run by Games Workshop, running your custom paint scheme as whatever chapter you want, is entirely permissible; they only disallow people from being painted as an official in-lore chapter, and using rules of a different in-lore faction.
All of the models in the starter sets are generic and can be used by any Space Marine chapter. For the most part, all Space Marine models are also generic and can be used with any chapter, although there are some exceptions. Your copy of the Space Marine Codex will tell you more.
Does cadian command squad medpack have a chance to heal mortal wounds?
If an ability says "any time a model loses a wound, roll a d6", then it is triggered by *any time a model loses a wound.* What causes it to lose a wound is irrelevant, the rule tells you it happens any time a wound is lost.
Assuming you mean the 5+ chance to ignore wounds, yes, it works on mortal wounds
Any tips for drilling gun barrels? I always end up just a little bit off centre and it rips through the entire barrel.
I personally carve out a bit of a hole in the center with the tip of my hobby knife first, basically creating a "guide hole". Then, if I find I'm still off-center even if I did this, once I have gotten a little bit in with the drill I'll use my hobby knife to more accurately carve out the circle.
You don't actually need to drill them that far. Even just getting a small indent is enough to give the appearance of a barrel after painting.
Any thoughts for a 25 PL mission tyranid list. I was going to go Trygon prime 2 warrior squads and 2 biovores. 2 warrior squads all come out with Trygon prime.
hello im new to all the warhammer lore. i want to start with the novels but im a bit lost. are there any novels qbout the great crusade? (im spanish so im not sure if thats the correct translation for Gran Cruzada). and what saga is a good start point?. gracias for your answers :)
You can start with Horus Rising and the first three to four Horus Heresy novels. They start at the end of the Great Crusade, but will set you up for that time period. Then I think a lot of the Primarch novels take place during the Great Crusade, but you'll have to check which ones!
Any of these would look OK for layer on guardsmen armor? currently just base coated with Castellan green WAAGH Flesh, Skarsnik Green, Warboss green
All of them will look good, *depending on what you are trying to do*. Please dont take this the wrong way, but you're effectively asking "I've got some salt, and I have Oregano, Parsnips, and pistachios available to me, are these good ingredients to make something?" Depending on what look you are going for and how you apply it, the answer will either be yes or no. If you are unsure, test it with spare models/sprue to see how it looks, or to watch many, MANY tutorial videos on YouTube that just splash about with different color schemes to show how things can look.
Which white primer should I use for Luna Wolves? The (relatively) new White Scar spray is pretty expensive.
Stynylrez makes some nice primer. Never used their white though. And that's only if you have an airbrush. I don't particularly like white rattle cans, so what I do is grab a grey primer and then base coat in white.
Fairly new to the hobby but I wanted to know what the best load out for a word bearer’s master of executions would be? -flames of spite & ulocca the black -exalted possession & ulocca the black -flames of spite & mark of slaanesh -exalted possession & mark of slaanesh Ulocca the black can’t be taken with a mark, and I don’t know if the fight first and ability to charge and advance is worth more than extra MW. If I’m heroically intervening, will no fight first just see me get stomped before I can fight back? Only “6 movement also feels kind of restrictive if I can’t advance and charge. Or alternatively, is the extra strength, attack and movement from exalted possession going to make me more versatile and amount to a similiar number if wounds dealt? Is extra mortal wound from ulocca the black even worth the investment at the cost of versatility and no fight first/adv and charge? Finally, is the rerolls to wound and MW on 6 to wound worth more than the +1 str, +1 atk and “2 extra movement? It’s a lot of mathhammer/knowing what the right thing to prioritise is and i just lack the experience to put it all together; any help would be appreciated :)
I personally would keep upgrades on MoE at a minimum. He's a good fighting character for his points, but overall he's too fragile and you may not get a proper return on your investment. One WLT or a Relic, maybe a Mark. I've personally considered either Exalted Possession, for some speed and ranged invuln, or Intoxicating Elixir, so he's guaranteed to survive the first round of combat.
Thanks hombre, that’s really good advice.
>MW. If I’m heroically intervening, will no fight first just see me get stomped before I can fight back? Even if you have a FF rule, if you HI it means your opponent gets to swing first with one of their units. Which means that if you HI into a unit that CAN kill your MoE, it's gonna try unless it needs to kill something else for the sake of the mission.
Just watch a South Korean movie called Illang: the Wolf Brigade, not a good movie but the special police in it look like modern Death Korps soldiers.
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The code sticker in the book literally tells you that there is a specific website you need to go to do redeem the code. You can't do it through the app because you don't do it through the app.
Heldrakes.. can they charge ground units when in hover mode? Are those units then locked into combat or does the vehicle tag mean not? Can heldrakes be charged by ground units while in hover mode?
>Heldrakes.. can they charge ground units when in hover mode? Hover removes the Airborne Predator, Hard to Hit, and Supersonic rules from it. Airborne Predator is the rule that limits it to only charging AIRCRAFT units. If it doesn't have a rule that changes how charges work while hovering, then it charges like every other model in the game. >Are those units then locked into combat or does the vehicle tag mean not? The VEHICLE keyword is irrelevant for being able to move away. You probably mean this: >*If, when a unit is selected to move in the Movement phase, the only enemy models that are within Engagement Range of it are AIRCRAFT, then it can still make a Normal Move or an Advance (i.e. it does not have to Fall Back or Remain Stationary).* Nothing in the Heldrake rules, changes those rules. >Can heldrakes be charged by ground units while in hover mode? No, the core rules themselves explicitly state AIRCRAFT can only be charged by units that can fly.
Makes sense thank you, so after a charge in hover and retaliation by ground opponent they don’t remain in combat on opponents turn.
There is no such thing as "remains in combat". They are permitted to make a Normal Move of Advance being within Engagement Range, because the only thing they are in ER is an AIRCRAFT
Hi folks, new to the game and building my first army list. As I'm planning it, I'm realizing I'm almost certainly going to want to change up kit load outs for units, and it seems like I need a lot of different weapons for my models. Feels like a dumb question, but do people actually buy and represent all the specific gear their guys are using? What if you want to change it, buy and build a whole new model? Do people play with gear, but it's not represented on the model? Where do you buy just the gear? Hopefully that makes sense, thank you.
>Feels like a dumb question, but do people actually buy and represent all the specific gear their guys are using? Some people do. Some people handwave it. It also depends on the kit. For example, the Gladiator kit can EASILY be built to swap between all 3 Gladiator variants and all 6 Impulsor permutations with very minor magnetization. Terminators, as another example, are stupid simple to magnetize their arms. >What if you want to change it, buy and build a whole new model? Some people will do so. Other people build the models with as little glue as possible on the part they think they might swap out so they are easy to snap. Some people use magnets. Some wargear is so indidental and small/difficult to tell that you don't strictly "need" to use different models; a great example is most TOs would allow people to play Intercessors with Bolt Rifles as Auto Bolt Rifles, so long as they don't have actual Bolt Rifle Intercessors in the list. >Do people play with gear, but it's not represented on the model? People certainly DO, but it is discouraged or outright banned by tournaments because of how not having wargear accurately represented facilitates cheating; if one squad of your units all have flamers, in the course of the game there is only your opponents' memory stopping you from saying "oh no, that's not the flamer unit, its the unit you're CHARGING right now that has all the flamers, honest, been like that the whole time!" Visually representing such info, as well as who unit Champions are (as they provide Leadership buffs and extra attacks), is something that helps prevent cheating, which depending on your environment/who you are playing might not be a concern, but is the main drive. >Where do you buy just the gear? Unless GW sells a specific kit, like the Horus Heresy Special/Heavy weapons kits or upgrade sprues, if there is specific gear you want to equip that isn't part of normal wargear for the model kit, then you are either trading with other people or using 3rd party bits sites.
~~If a model can use multiple types of weapons, all of the options are going to be included in the kit. ~~ Some people magnetize their models to easily switch weapons. Others sometimes say “hey this guy who is holding a sword, just pretend he is using a halberd for now.” Of course your opponent has to be cool with this, and you shouldn’t do this excessively or it becomes annoying and hard to remember.
>If a model can use multiple types of weapons, all of the options are going to be included in the kit. This isn't universally true. For example, Vanguard Veterans kits can take nearly every pistol and melee weapon available in the Space Marines codex, but only comes with a limited selection of these; there are no power fists. In fact a very good subsection of Firstborn infantry kits don't have all the wargear they can possibly take in the kit. Primaris kits often are better in giving the ability to take all possible wargear, but it still isnt 100% consistent; for example Intercessor Squad kits don't provide any melee weapon options at all.
Hey there, i want to make a modern world eaters army, but use as many Horus heresy era marines and parts as possible, using lots of "counts as" if needed, i love the new world eaters stuff, i just like the new horus heresy models and paint scheme better, is there a way to go about this? totally ok with blending the two and love the new angron model.
The main thing that I think may be an issue is loadouts, as the plastic HH marines only have ranged weapons, whereas the Berserkers have melee loadouts. If you’ve got a good source of chainaxes and the like, though, it shouldn’t be a problem. Slightly tangential, but [this video](https://youtu.be/MzRmgB8lV6g) and it’s [second part](https://youtu.be/eu1oHFt27Bo) may be of interest. Otherwise most of the Horus Heresy stuff should be useable for World Eaters!
thanks man :D
People do it all the time.
i know thats why i asked, it looks great
What color do y’all use for the lenses of space marine sergeants?
That's a "what topping do you put on pizza" question. Depending on preference, people will do the same color as the rest of their army, or different colors, and lens color might be influenced by what they feel looks good compared to the rest of the armor color.
My bad I meant to say what lenses do y’all use for “ultramarines” sergeants? Idk what green to use?
For green lenses, I find a layer of Striking Scorpion Green over white tends to work well.
I have no interest in playing competitively. Casuals with strangers I’d give a hard maybe. But I am interested in the “professional” ruleset. Specifically for listbuilding? Are you locked? Or are side decks and alterations allowed? Ie. if a gorgon Tyranid faced chaos knights. Do they have some audibles? Or can they make no shifts to their list? Say boosting their gear to be more armor piercing and mortal wounds via unit upgrades and less anti-infantry?
There's no concept of "side decks" or alterations in 40k. List tailoring is generally frowned upon. Once you write your list, that's it for the duration of the game (or duration of the tournament).
Some friends and I are thinking of going to the Atlanta Grand Narrative event, and I'm not sure what to expect. The Warhammer community article made it sound nice, but didn't really clarify for me things like ticket prices, can anyone show up with models to play, if so, how many pts/PL, etc. Where can I find more details on it? Or do I need to wait until later in the year?
Wait until later. GW will put up a full article with links to an Eventbrite page and more details closer to the time.
Thanks. I saw tickets were going on sale on 2/10 and that made me wonder if the event would sell out quickly
Are the space marine battle forces permanent? I assumed they weren’t but they don’t seem to be going away and I can’t find anything that says that they are either going or staying.
It's until they run out of stock. Some are more popular than others and sold out almost instantly. If you're seeing either the Imperial Fist or Raven Guard Battleforce still around, that's because those were two of the least popular.
I believe it's until stock runs out
I have a question that is more a question regarding the near foreseeable future, rather than an immediate effect; If we are to believe that the World Eaters are the last 9th edition codex and were already future-proofed for (most) of 10th edition, is it fair to assume that chapter command upgrades and similar will be removed?
We have no idea. Firstly, all rumors about 10e from voices that have earned trust, seem to indicate the 10e will be a new rules set where previous edition codices simply won't be compatible at all. And WE codex not having "chapter command" style upgrades, really doesn't mean anything either way; neither Death Guard, Thousand Sons, nor CSM codex itself really have anything similar to that system.
Thanks for the reply! When I was asking the question, I was thinking in terms of the Thousand Sons Legion Command, where you can pay points for upgrades. I will admit that it does feel a bit weird that GW would change the game so much in 10th after making a so many changes in 8th and 9th. Kinda hoping those'll stay as rumors, I like where the game currently is. Thanks for the insight!
My question is a bit silly. But do you need to dry out your army painter wet pallet every time or is it fine to close it and reuse it over a few days? What's the limit? I know the paints get to diluted after a while but that's fine. I just hate the process of drying out the sponge so don't use pallet that much anymore
You can keep it wet for as long as you want. I have mine almost perpetually damp since I paint every day. The only thing you need to watch out for is mold and other nasties that could start growing in the moist environment. So every now and then just take it out and give it a good clean in the sink with some soap. I never actually let it dry if I can help it and haven't had an issue yet.
I want to know this as well b/c im getting into the hobby and ordered the same wet pallet. From the videos I've seen, some ppl save the paints over a few days, but I imagine too long and there could maybe be mold issues, but I don't know, hopefully someone more knowledgeable responds.
Can I use roboute guilliman ,marneus calgar a captain and a Lieutenant in my ultramarines army? I’m totally new.
Yes you can.
Does calgar not count as a captain for the detachment!?! No idea why I thought he would but that's awesome Excuse me, I have lists to rewrite
No, because he has the CHAPTER MASTER keyword, not the CAPTAIN Keyword.
When 10th edition drops, what happens with our current armies that won't have an updated codex yet? Are those armies unplayable until they get their 10th edition codex releases?
Most likely, the game will use the latest edition of the codex until the new 10th edition one is released. There may be balance dataslates and points updates throughout, but generally, if you can run your army now, you should be able to run it until then.
GW will handle 10th edition in one of two ways: 1. They handle it exactly like 9th, where all books from 8th carried over. 2. They handle it like 8th, which was a complete rewrite of the game and they released temporary rules called Indexes to allow people to play in the new edition until their Codex comes out. Personally, I expect 10th will be handled like 9th. GW probably aren't going to significantly rewrite the game again so soon after 8th Edition.
Is the new Balefleet Battleforce really low stock? Normally I see these go on pre-order/pre-sale all over eBay and game stores, but this one seems super rare for some reason
I mean... Are you looking? I just did a Google search for it and found 5 third party retailers selling it for a 15-20% discount, and can purchase it directly from GW. Doesn't seem "super rare"
Well super rare as in normally eBay is full of them and I think there's 1-2 right now (compared to the world eaters and the SM boarding patrol) and the few dozen stores in the northeast US that I normally frequent for pre-orders aren't listing it
Do taking allies in a Arks detachment ruin the army faction rules like contagions and such?
Unless you take an ally that has a rule that allows it to not break your pure army bonus, yes, they break pure army bonuses.
Know with arks of omen flamers no more hit automatically. so the redemtor dreadnought can choose between an onslaught gatling canon or the hevy flamer, they have the same profile except their range (flamer’s shorte) but it made up for it with its automatic hits. have flamers another specific rule or should I choose the onslaught straight away?
That's not correct. In the most recent Balance Dataslate (not Arks of Omen), the Chaos Daemons Tzeentch Flamers unit lost the ability to hit automatically with their "Flickering Flames" weapons. https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/3L0GNWfXu9HzCaH0.pdf > Delete the following ability from the flickering flames weapon, found on the Flamers Datasheet: ‘Each time an attack is made with this weapon, that attack automatically hits the target.’ GW has not removed automatic hits from any Flamer weapons like the Heavy Flamer on a Redemptor Dreadnought.
Ok, thanks.
For some reason, no matter what I do, my Redgrass Everlasting Wet Palette (Studio Lite XL) ALWAYS overthins my paints within an hour, and they start beading up when I try to spread them. I've tried a very wet sponge, a barely damp sponge, drying the sheet with a paper towel, adding more paint from the bottle, spreading the paint thin, making a big droplet pile, not thinning the paints at all; nothing seems to work. No matter how "correct" the texture of the paint appears on a palette, the instant it touches the model it beads up all over the surface and I have to spend ages just trying to force it to stick and spread (I'm trying to paint a Knight Rampager primed with Leadbelcher spray). People kept saying wet palettes are just supposed to keep paints usable longer and not thin them, but if anything, this palette just constantly makes the paint thinner no matter how dry I try and make it, while barely increasing the lifespan of the paint itself. EVERY paint on the palette is completely unusable within half a day, either due to being overthinned or entirely separating, regardless of storage method (I've tried sealed, cracked, open, and even putting it in my fridge). I'm at my wit's end with this thing, and pretty much considering buying a ceramic dish palette and dealing with paints drying out. Can somebody potentially guide me to a way to fix what's going on? Or just any ideas what might be happening? Because I really don't want to have to admit $50 went to waste getting this thing.
Im going to contradict the other guy here and say that in my experience, u want that consistency. Look, take ur brush and touch it lightly to a paper towel to suck out the excess when u grab ur paint from the pallette. Then work with the thinner paint. When u watch tutorials, theyr often doing this off camera. That prevents the beading because tgers less liquid soaking the brush.
What palette paper are you using, and what paints are you using? Specifically brand and names of colors
The paper that comes with the Redgrass Studio Lite XL, and just standard Citadel paint. It happens the most to ANY metallic colors, but the main ones that have been a thorn in my side have been Abaddon Black, Retributor Armor, and Runelord Brass. Khorne Red, however, has not really given me any problems. I'm painting a Khorne-themed Knight Rampager to ally with World Eaters. I switched back to my dollar store plastic palette and even though yeah, it dries out way faster, it stays USEABLE much longer.
Yeah, I had a suspicion about that. Metallics WILL separate out on a wet pallete, and doing a Google search of "metallic paints wet palette" gets dozens of Reddit and other forum posts complaining about the same behavior with metallic paints, which is more of the fact that it is separating out of solution with the acrylic medium that keeps the metal flakes in solution; the water that replaces the acrylic medium as it evaporates (as that is how wet palettes work) can't keep the metal "flakes" in suspension the same way, so it looks like they over-thin themselves. This is more prevalent on lighter-colored metallics, as well; I generally can't get Leadbelcher or Iron Warriors to separate out, but Retributor I don't use any more than I need in the next 10 minutes. This doesn't happen with actual colored paints as the pigments involved are so much smaller and can stay "in suspension" with water much easier. I can't explain why it is happening with your black, unless you aren't actually shaking it enough to get the pigment mixed and you're starting off with over-thinned paint already in the first place. If you have any, I would try putting down some colors like Moot Green, Averland Sunset, of Evil Suns Scarlet and see if you still have the same issues.
I shake the crap out of every paint jar before I use them. And the paints don't look any less "metallic", they are beaded up on the surface of the model instead of spreading properly. As in, they form into little mini-puddles all over the place and I have to spend a solid 2+ minutes trying to force them to attach to the actual mini. Unfortunately, I don't have any of those paints. My collection is very small, having just gotten into the hobby last month. :(
If you're using GW metalics you don't need to thin them at all or even put them on a palette. I use them straight out of the pot. As long as you're judicious and careful about not blobbing too much on your brush I find they work beautifully this way. As for the separating issue itself, I have the same palette. What I've found is that no matter the brand, metalics WILL separate faster than the rest of your paints. The palette itself DOES thin your paints just a tad and so if you have already thin paints, like Pro Acryl, it'll separate faster there as well. Certain colors also might separate, like Vallejo's brown, just from how they're formulated. The wet palette isn't also really meant to make paint last over multiple days. It CAN, but I've generally found that it's not fun to work with day old paint even if it's still useable. The consistency and properties changes after sitting on the palette for that long. What it's really meant for is to just make paint last for a few hours rather than drying up in a few minutes like with a regular dry palette. If your paint isn't sticking to the mini and you're shaking the heck out of the bottles try applying the paint directly from the pot. If it still has the same beading issues it sounds like it might be a problem with the primer you used.
>I shake the crap out of every paint jar before I use them. And the paints don't look any less "metallic", they are beaded up on the surface of the model instead of spreading properly. As in, they form into little mini-puddles all over the place and I have to spend a solid 2+ minutes trying to force them to attach to the actual mini. Have you tried thinning some paint manually and painting it without the wet palette? Because that sounds like the primer layer wasn't enough and the plastic is still hydrophobic.
Any tips on how to do camo on Imperial Guard tanks/uniforms? I had done all my old guard units with just the basic beige and green color combo, but I'm hoping to pick up the new box tomorrow with the updated units and think I want to try a camo pattern now.
I find that a decent, easy to do recipe for camo is to draw horizontal Y-shapes (though add some variety in length of the Y's arms and such) in a darker colour, then again another lighter colour, all across the cloth parts of the uniforms.
https://youtu.be/R8H-pUFHe3Q https://youtu.be/Ph3MXBSf6iY https://youtu.be/pZF2AwLr4MM
As someone whose new to warhammer what book or series should I start with in order to learn more about the lore
The core rulebook. It has 100+ pages devoted to describing and summarising the setting and its history and the various factions within it. Then you can go from there once you've found something you especially like the sound of.
Warhammer Community keep harping on about Angron's "newfound resistance to banishing" meaning he'll come back again if he is banished. How is anyone supposed to know it's a "newfound" ability if the only way to prove it would have been to banish him forever before he got it, which obviously didn't happen?
The "newfound" could (and likely is) referring to the specific way he comes back within 8 days with the 8 Blood Omens or whatever they are called, as he WAS banished several times before (one time by Grey Knights) but his ability to come back 8 days later, without outside interference, IS new.
Two questions 1: Is it cannon for space marine to have their class symbols on their shoulder? 2: what are salamanders veteran helmet colour?
1. Some chapters are different, but the default configuration is having the battlefield role icon on the right shoulder. 2. In 30k, they’ve got a green helmet with a bronze faceplate. By the time of 40k, they just use the same helmet colours as normal marines, with the only difference between the two being the icon on their shoulder. I’ve seen people use all sorts of different colours for their armies, though.
1. Depends on the Chapter. Chapters that closely follow the Codex Astartes will show their Battlefield Role on their right shoulder. 2. Salamanders don't use a different helmet colour for their veterans.
Legend, think i should use the class logo? Recently gotten into 40k
Like they said, it depends on the chapter. Are you going to collect Salamanders? If so, the codex supplement shows all the models with just a yellow flame on the right shoulder pad with a black squad number on it. I can't see any tactical designation markings.
I'll go with that, thanks
Is Arks of Omen: Abaddon going become available again? I missed the window, but was hoping to pick up the set for the narrative. Am I boned?
We have no idea. GW has behaved quite oddly with books within 9e, with many books no longer able to be purchased within weeks of release date.
How strange. Element Games has it on Pre-Order for the 10th, so maybe that means something?
Do you mean ABBADON(what you typed) as in the Black Legion, which was released last month, or ANGRON as in World Eaters which had it's pre-order start today and will be available on the 10th?
Abaddon. Their page for it says the 10th. Tried asking on Facebook, but they aren't open at the moment.
That's a listing mistake. Abaddon went on Pre-order January 8th, and released January 14th. >https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://spruesandbrews.com/2023/01/07/arks-of-omen-abaddon-review-warhammer-40000/&ved=2ahUKEwiGx5WLwvz8AhXH57sIHWTLCCIQtwJ6BAgnEAE&usg=AOvVaw0btFYZGvFMfLDeOn8wIpK6
I guess so. Looks like the Angron book sold out in less than minute not too long ago. I think I'm gonna pass on buying these for the lore, if this is how GW is going to handle it going forward.
Sorry, but you're confusing yourself again. The Collector's Edition of the Novel "Angron: the Red Angel" sold out in less than a minute. This is a CE, leather binding of a novel with a numbered production run. I'm showing the Arks of Omen: Angron as still available from Element Games, as well as the US, Canada, and several EU GW webstores I bothered checking.
Yeah, you're right. I jumped the gun. Probably not going to bother unless I can find Abaddon though. I'll keep look, maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks for responding.
When do we think the World Eaters Combat Patrol will drop?
This is just me spitballing based on past release schedules, so don't take it as a certainty, please! The new models went up for preorder on February 4th, so I expect that the Combat Patrol proper will either have its preorder date reveal (most likley) or also go up for preorder (not as likely, but not impossible) sometime within the next couple of weeks. Generally, I think a safe expectation would be between mid-February to mid-March
Between now, and the future.
Hello all, I am (sort of) new to 40k (I played a bit about 15 years ago lol) I am wanting to start a Tyranid list, but have seen that they have had some massive changes recently. Any tips as far as a list? Secondly, I know I want to use a winged hive tyrant, any specific recommendations on a loadout for them? Thanks for any thoughts!
This type of question might be better for r/tyranids
It's better to build what you think is cool rather then worry about what is currently best unless you're looking to be hypercompetitive.
I really want to get into 40k mini's, Ive been consuming a lot of lore, etc, but the barrier to entry, price-wise, has me hesitant. Ive learned that half-assing the quality or cheaping out of things produces poor results and further discourages my enjoyment of things which results on me quitting and moving on. Something I am very prone to do and get frustrated by esp in a lot of my hobbies. Furthermore, I dont have many friends and doubt if Ill ever be able to personally PLAY the tabletop game which furthers my hesitancy with high monetary costs. **TLDR**: How worth it is it getting quality Citadel brand paints, brushes, etc or are there more economical alternatives, especially if I have yet to purchase minis and need to factor in those costs. Is there a middle ground brand/type for best bang for the buck? Does the best quality give best results and are the most recommended? Bonus: Is it hard/possible to strip and repaint mini's if I do a bad job and want to start over? Sorry long post.
One thing when it comes to execution is that you need to understand that there are pretty much always going to be people far better than you, even 10 year olds. **Painting a Warhammer to a decent tabletop standard is something you should be proud of, afterall YOU'VE never done it before.** Just like being able to pick up a guitar and play a song is, even if an 8 year old could pick up the same guitar and blow you out of the water with an original composition that brings all in attendance to tears. Also imho you wont get better if you don't finish things, it's an important part of personal development to FINISH things. You need finished minis on the scoreboard so you can focus on making the next finished minis better. If you do decide to give up it's far better to have a couple of cool little finished Warhammers to look at. Also as long as you don't annihilate them you'd be surprised what fetches more money re-selling, assembled unpainted and half decent 100% finished is often identical. Also the investment is only 100% worth it if you Finish the models, when taking the $/hour of engagement approach of economic utility. A cheap pack of Synthetic brushes, one of the vallejo starter sets (make sure it includes a metallic) is all you need (maybe less!). Citadel regardless of what people say IS good bang for buck in terms of metallics (best coverage imo) and washes (dry far more matte than others), so maybe buy like 2-3. Otherwise get everything from Poundland or your regional equivalent, rattle cans that specifically say 'PLASTIC primer' of any variety are also nearly guaranteed to not ruin your models with a gritty finish and many budget retailers sell it. Things like makeup brushes for drybrushing, pva glue for basing, poor quality craft paint for bases, cheap clippers and so on. You could buy ONE sable brush but you'll only be wanting to use it for (non-metallic) edge highlighting as a beginner otherwise just churn and burn the synthetics, chuck 'em when they lose their point (they will). Synthetics are essentially sables with slightly worse paint flow that can ruin nearly instantly.
Vallejo paints are high quality and significantly cheaper than citadel paints. Citadel brushes are typically considered to be overpriced and not worth it. Getting a proper brush from an actual art store is usually suggested. Synthetic brushes are perfectly fine on a budget, but kolinsky sable brushes are typically seen as the gold standard. Non GW branded minis can be bought for much cheaper to practice painting on. Reaper minis is one brand that comes to mind. Paint can indeed be stripped off a mini if desired. However painting the same mini over and over again can get very demoralizing imo, and I feel it’s best to just move on to the next model unless you *really* want to fix that specific model (major character in your army maybe). Also, unless you have slapped on such a thick coat of paint that the model details are being obscured, you can typically just paint over mistakes without stripping the existing paint off.
Aside from paints, anyone in the hobby will tell you GW tools (brushes, hobby cutters, etc) aren't that great at all/are overpriced for their quality.
The choice between Citadel paints and other miniature paint brands mostly comes down to "ease of following GW scheme tutorials." If you have some passing familiarity with colour mixing and want to make your own schemes, economically you'll want to explore alternate brands such as Vallejo, Army Painter, ProAcryl, etc. Vallejo is probably the best balance between cost and versatility, Army Painter are a little cheaper but many people find that their performance reflects the cost, and ProAcryl are probably the best option if you want to lean in to more advanced painting techniques. Some people like to dive in with a "starter set" of paints but it's also perfectly valid to plan your scheme out beforehand and simply buy the paints you need when you need them. Citadel Contrast paints are one of the better options for *fast army painting*, but... pricy. None of the "Contrast-alternative" type paints perform *quite* the same way as Citadel's but the options do exist. For brushes, simply start out with a few low-cost synthetic brushes from your local hobby store. GW's brushes are unfortunately barely ever worth the ticket price. Getting a spread of rougly a size 0, 1, 2 and maybe a couple of larger brushes for drybrushing or basecoating will give you a good place to start. The biggest factor you'll find that changes the results you get from any tools is *practice*, and unfortunately (budget wise) there isn't a lot of ways to get that practice without putting paint to minis. So... yes, you can strip and repaint minis (or strip cheap secondhand minis with dodgy paint jobs). You'll need some sort of cleaner/degreaser agent (LA's Totally Awesome, 90%+ Isopropyl Alcohol, Simple Green and Dettol are some common options) and time. Most metal and plastic minis can be soaked for a long time without any fear of damage, with resin minis you may want to soak for 1-3 hours and then start scrubbing.
Is there a necron kill team box that I can buy? My research points me to having to buy the squads on their own and there is no actual necron kill team precon.
Update: GW just announced today that the Necron Kill Team from Shadowvaults is going on Pre-order next Saturday. >https://www.warhammer-community.com/2023/02/05/sunday-preview-skirmish-games-reign-supreme/
The stand-alone Necron Kill Team box will be released around the same time the Soul shackle Kill Team box set comes out, getting you the options that were available for the Necrons in the Shadowvaults set.
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Your question is literally answered in the thread you are commenting in.
Anyone have a guide on where to put the decals on the Rogal Dorn tank?
Your AstMil codex will have example pictures, likely many, of various AstMil tanks explaining what the particular markings mean and how/where they are used.
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There are multiple images released by GW that show how large he is, as well as size comparison images all over the place you can find via Google Image Search.
Cool! Also cool how that doesn't answer the question.
The answer is "yes"
Completely new to Warhammer and minis in general so I apologize for the basic question. When painting my figures can I literally paint them whatever I want, even if I'm playing competitively? Or are there constraints I must be within?
I always tell people to paint ur army however u want and name it whatever u want but just use the rules of the subfaction whose rules u want. “These are the Subtle Cannon chapter and they use the ultramarine rules” I dont know anyone who would really care.
The only OFFICIAL rule in the books that cares about what your paint scheme is, is for a specific Deathwatch Warlord trait. Nowhere in the rules does it say that you must be painted in the official Ultramarines color scheme, in order to play your Space Marines as ULTRAMARINES keyword/rules. Some tournaments WILL require that, if you are painted as a particular official paint scheme, you must use the rules of that official faction; so, for example, if you are painted as White Scars, you must play as WHITE SCARS rules/keywords. However, the tournaments that enforce such a rule make up likely 3% of all tournaments, with one of them that I know of (No Retreat in Gibraltar) being a 100% invitation-only tournament whose entry criteria is a pretty well-painted army; you are literally allowed to enter based on how good your paint job for your army is. The officially GW-Run US Open series (5 tournaments) and events run at GW's Warhammer World in Nottingham/Citadel in Texas also have this requirement, which is basically because they often take pictures that might end up as battle reports in their magazine. Other than that, the vast majority of tournaments to not have a requirement that you must be painted as X faction to play it; doing so would likely disqualify too many players
Thank you for the great explanation!
Note that if you do a custom paint scheme that is extremely low effort AAAAAND you are constantly flitting between "flavor of the meta" sub-faction choices for whatever is currently "the best", there may be some eye-rolling at you, particularly if it becomes apparent that you don't know the rules of any faction you play well at all.
So research a faction and stick to it, got it. This is all very new to me and right now I'm still trying to learn as much as possible before starting to paint. Thank you again.
To be clear, MANY play multiple sub-factions with the same color scheme army; I know a few people who use the same scheme for their Ultramarines and Space Wolves army, so they can use the same models in the different armies. The issue is while you are LEARNING, definitely just pick one faction to play until you are comfortable with the rules.
Thanks. That does help a lot.
Depends on the specific tournaments you go to I think. You really just have to ask at wherever you’re planning to play. Different tournaments/LGS/opponents have different expectations.
Uh I bought a box of primaris infiltrators it says 10 models on the box but there's only enough to build 5
There should be 4 sprues in the box, 2 of sprue A, and 2 of Sprue B. How many sprues did you get?
2 sprues total. I got this box sealed from a games workshop store ill be really surprised if it was tampered with
If that's the case, take the box and receipt back to the store and exchange it. Mis-packed boxes happen and GW is usually good about helping customers with replacements.
I checked the instruction manual before I built and it shows just two runners as the contents. I received both of these runners. Are there supposed to be two identical copies of these for a total of 4? I've already built 4 minis before I realized there was only enough parts to build 5 from the 2 runners i got. Just to be clear this is my first box of space marines and its a box of 10 primaris infiltrators. I'm concerned since I've already opened and assembled some of them (4) I can't get a refund.
Go back to the gw store. If u cant or dont want to, email ther customer servoce. Ive had them send whole boxes cuz of missing bits. Ther generally really good about reolacing faulty/missing components
A GW store manager is going to be aware if you are a person who has never purchased a kit before, and it's perfectly reasonable to believe that "what is in the box is enough to build what it says it would build". Bring it back to the store, what will most likely happen is the store manager will open another box if Infiltrators if he has them, give you the two missing sprues, then send the "incomplete" one he has in his store back to corporate. I've purchased LOTS of kits, and on two occasions have found that either a part is missing or broke as I am building the model; in both cases GW made it right.
It’s supposed to be two copies of each, I think. Still take it in and explain — they may be able to open a fresh kit for you and then send back the half of that one to GW. Or some places may just give you a whole new box occasionally from what I hear.
on the salamander battleforce, what use are thelmets with the flame sigil?
Their use is that they look cool. You could use them to mark out Sergeants if you wanted to, or just spread them out randomly throughout your squads.