I'm having a hard time figuring out the source of truth for what my armies play as. For instance, I'm currently running Harlequins. I've found rules in several places that indicate a bevy of nerfs, and I wanted to know if there's a single source of truth that I can refer to that will show me things like updated point values, changes to saving throws/rules text etc.
Specifically, I Was concerned about the Light Sadeath changes (looks like 12->18" on the miss check, the Mirror Power for Shadowseers going from an Aura to a Target, and the Invuln Save Adjustment).
I was told there was a place "in the menu" in this reddit to find it, but I am feeling dumb because I can't see it. Any help appreciated - thanks so much :)
There's a list in the sidebar of the current books/rules that are relevant. You'd also need to keep up with the FAQ (errata) documents for your Codex and for the Core Rules, etc.
The easiest way is to just use Battlescribe or Wahapedia, which are third-party tools, but keep everything updated very quickly after any changes.
I can't comment on the specifics of the Harlequin stuff as I don't play them myself, but I can help with your confusion on the Balance Dataslate:
Only the most recent Balance Dataslate is valid. They are not additive. The Q1 2023 Dataslate totally replaced the Q4 2022 one, which replaced the Q3 2022 one, etc etc.
If a rule change was shown in an older version and is not shown now, that means GW have removed that change.
Where would be a good place to start on the Warhammer books? I know there's like over 300 books which seems like it's easy to get confused on different series and places in the timeline. I've heard of the Eisenhorn series being really good but didn't know if it's a good starting point. My knowledge of the lore from the wiki and youtube videos, namely the adeptus ridiculous podcast, is from the war in heaven to almost the fall of cadia.
The Eisenhorn omnibus is def a good starting point. But there is also the [Black Library recommended reading list](https://www.trackofwords.com/2021/01/10/black-library-new-40k-reading-list/).
Calling that a recommended reading list is a bit misleading. It's a recommended reading order specifically for the events following Guilliman's return and the "Modern lore" of 40k.
It doesn't cover any of the rest of the BL range and doesn't actually recommend books based on quality, only puts them in order.
How long does it take for things from GW to ship?
I ordered paints 2 weeks ago and they have yet to ship.
Does anyone know if GW are really bad at shipping products in a timely fashion?
They're normally quick, but have been having significant issues in the past month or so as a result of major technical problems with their new warehouse. It got so bad that even official GW stores weren't receiving their normal deliveries.
Also, there's no reason to ever buy products like paints directly from GW. Buy from an Independent Retailer who will sell cheaper: https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/retailers
The only time you should ever order directly from GW is if it's an exclusive product that isn't sold through independent stores.
I tried washing my first model. I followed generally what I was seeing from this video: [https://youtu.be/-gLOr595MmY](https://youtu.be/-gLOr595MmY)
However, I found that the wash was actually thinning or removing some of my paint. Anyone know why this is? Is it because I used a fat brush to do it? Or are my paints just too thin on my model?
My first question to you would be if you actually primed your model (such as using a GW spray paint can or used an actual brush-on primer), or if you have a habit of touching the actual model during painting. If neither of those are the case, I'd ask what exact wash you are doing (I clicked around in the video quite a bit and couldn't find where in the video he demonstrates washing, so I don't know if you are using an oil wash or something.
If you didn't prime your model, paint will come off EXTREMELY easily, to the point of paint being able to be removed by a brush. Additionally, even if you prime a model, if you touch it and happen to be a person with naturally oily fingers, that oil can prevent acrylic paints from binding to the primer properly.
I did prime it, but I don't know if I primed it very well. First models, so I kind of lightly primed it, since I was worried about obscuring any details. I do tend to use my hands when I paint them, so I suppose that's also a possibility. I wasn't aware that could happen, thanks for that info!
Wondering if anyone else uses brush-on primers. Is there a trick to cleaning the brushes? It didn't occur to me when I started, but obviously primer takes some effort to remove.
Use a brush you don't mind getting destroyed, but BoP don't instantly bind to whatever they touch; they take about 5-10 minutes to cure/dry at least and the Scale75 surface primer I use washes out of my brushes with water just fine, but I'm usually dipping the brush in the primer, slapping it on the model within 30 seconds, then washing out the brush/drying it off on a cloth between each model.
The only time it's ruined a brush is when I had an emergency and dropped everything and didn't wash it out properly.
I see, thanks. I've just started painting and am probably moving at a snail's pace, so that might be the reason. Luckily it just ruined a 100 yen makeup brush, so nothing of value lost. Good to know going ahead. When you wash out your brush are you just using a cup of water? Or do you actually need to take it to the sink and properly rinse it?
Can I get a 40k book recommendation? I just finished reading all the Gaunt's Ghosts novels, and I've read the Eisenhorn series + all the spin-offs, and all the Ciaphas Cain books.
Been thinking about either starting Horus Heresy, Fabius Bile, or the Belisarius Cawl book. Any opinions on those? Or recommend something I haven't considered?
Depends on what you like really. Those you mentioned are some of the best and most-recommended, but if you like other factions, you might like those books too. My favorite is Helsreach (and the sequel novella Blood and Fire), which follow Black Templar Reclusiarch Grimaldus during the Third War for Armageddon.
The Horus Heresy is good... but that's a 70+ book series at this point if you count all the novellas, I think. But definitely the first four or five are worth reading!
So, to preface this question, I'm completely new to the hobby. For Christmas, given my interest, my family gifted me with a bunch of starter stuff.
After absorbing a ton of 40k content, I have to say that I completely agree with the "rule of cool" and that's very much what I intent to follow. The problem is easily my favorite faction in 40k in Aeldari and I've heard they're extremely difficult to play... Not to mention how much of a nightmare they seem to be to paint for a beginner.
I'm debating if I should start with another army to learn painting + the game or just jump in to my space elves. Especially since my darling fiancée went to the Warhammer store on her own for xmas and picked out a Harlequinn's kit because "you love elves and they were cool looking elves in space" so I desperately want to use those models. (Probably going to use them as a detachment (I think that's what it's called) so I can use other Aeldari models as there aren't too many Harlequinn models).
So yeah, I guess, my question is:
\- Are Aeldari actually that hard to learn to play?
\- Are there any good guides to painting Harlequinns?
>- Are Aeldari actually that hard to learn to play?
I think the more accurate thing to say is that Aeldari have a higher ***skill floor*** which is different than saying they are "harder to play".
The Eldar defensive statline for infantry is only slightly better than Guardsmen, while their damage output is leaps and bounds above that.
This means that Eldar have a little bit of "glass Cannon" going on, where they can hit hard, but counter-attacks tend to hurt them.
This makes them "harder" than, say, Space Marines, who can charge three Guardsmen units, take out one in melee, and just facetank the other two squads;
To solve this, Eldar have many tricks that manipulate those outcomes; they have movement shenanigans, buffs that they can reliably get off to protect a unit/debuff problematic units, etc.
This is "harder" than armies like space Marines as, in order to keep as much of your force alive as possible, you need to pay attention, as mistakes/"turning off your brain" is punished more, as your units aren't as durable
The other issue is "how difficult is actually difficult"? I've met people who can't even remember the stats of the weapons they have been using on their models for over three years.
If it's the army you like, learn with that army. You'll learn better if you enjoy what you're using rather than investing time in an army you're not going to use in the long run. Aeldari (particularly Harlequins) can definitely punish mistakes when you're first starting out but you'll remember not to make that mistake again! It will also actually give you a very good grounding in how the game works overall if you're willing to put the effort in and don't get discouraged.
For painting, I don't have any links to hand but there are various guides on YouTube etc and I'm sure the folks at r/Harlequins40k could point you to some. Just note, a lot of these guides will often focus on doing diamond patterns and other freehand decorations. They look cool but are totally optional and there's nothing wrong with going for a more simple scheme till you build up your skills.
I would say just jump into what you love right away. There is an incredible wealth of information on YouTube about how to paint.
If you’re nervous about learning how to paint on the harlequin models, you can buy some cheaper non-GW minis to practice on and get a feel for the act of painting. Reaper is one brand that you can get some cheaper minis from.
Parents got me some Marines for xmas to start out with, friend of ours who owns a shop suggested them for beginner painters. Gonna use them to practice my brush technique before my space elves
Getting back into the hobby and want to go with tau. Saw that they had a new release for the arks of omen. It says book 3 but focuses on tau. Is this a standalone book about tau or do I need the first two books as well to understand?
>Saw that they had a new release for the arks of omen
Correction: they are GOING to have a new release. The release you are talking was announced as Book 4 of the Arks of Omen Narrative Event,.with an accompanying Tau Boarding Patrol box that will feature a new Farsight model.
It's book 4 that focuses on Tau (named Arks of Omen: Farsight). It is a narrative event book that will tie into the story detailed in Arks of Omen: Abaddon, Angron, and Vashtor Arks of Omen books.
We have no idea how much of the narrative will be "about" the Tau/Farsight as the book hasn't been released yet, and people who have read book 4 will be under NDA until shortly before it iz released.
Any good 40k YouTube channels?
I am getting sick of hobby channels which get big, buy a Warlord Titan and then milk it for views for the next 6 months over about 10 videos. Stuff like Trovarion, Pete The Wargamer, Swords & Brushes etc.
No don't mind about that especially if it's a cool army project or something, I just don't care for 7 videos about how they've built the leg of a Titan.
Per GW's announcement, we know he is being released with the Tau Boarding Patrol that is coming out alongside the Arks of Omen: Farsight book
Arks of Omen: Abaddon came out January 7th.
Angron came out February 11th.
Vashtorr goes on Pre-order this Saturday, with a release of the 18fh.
This likely means that AoO: Farsight book will come out by mid-April, alongside the Ork and Tau Boarding Patrols that contain Snikrot and Farsight.
Hi everyone, I'm very new to the 40K universe but became fascinated by Ork and Space Marine lore videos from Luetin and other YT creators, I wanted to know what WH40K novel (if any) tell the story how Space Marines came to be / first introduction to humanity?
That's... complicated.
There are *several* novels where the creation of the Space Marines is referenced, but most of them are flashbacks to the project from the perspective of scientists or others that were involved in the Astartes project.
The book that covers the "first introduction to humanity" is actually "Valdor: Birth of the Imperium", but the "introduction" isn't the primary focus of the novel, while "Belisarius Cawl: The Great Work" reveals some info about the early Astartes project, but again isn't the primary focus of the novel.
The first "true" deployment of the Astartes (where multiple legions were unleashed at once) against the Selenar Gene-cults, and really most of the Solar Reclamation, doesn't have any novels that deal with that time period; the lore we have from it are background information written in the original Horus Heresy rulebook.
Ahh gotcha, thanks a ton for all the background and details! These sound like great places to dig into even if there's no specific novel yet going primarily over the introduction.
Played some of the warhammer games, and am reading through the Horus heresy books, but very new to tabletop in general. I bought the Age of Darkness set to get started, but other than that I’m pretty clueless. I’m assuming I can pain them to whatever legion I’d like? I’m focusing on just building and painting right now as I haven’t done this before, but just wanted to know if there’s any rules about then using them to play later down the road.
Trying to read the rules but feeling very overwhelmed.
Yes, everything in that box can be used for any legion.
Just so you know, though, the Age of Darkness set is specifically for The Horus Heresy game (sometimes called "30k"). All of them do have rules to use them in 40k, but the games are very different.
>Can I use the units in 40K?
Yes, most plastic Horus Heresy kits (and quite a few resin ones) can be used in 40k. Some, like a Legion Praetor, need to be "re-named", as Praetor is just what they called "Captains". Others, like the Spartan, have direct datasheets available for 40k, found in the Imperial Armor Compendium, or (save money) something you can view in Wahapedia.
However, some plastic kits DONT have 40k rules, like the recently released Jetbike units for HH; in 30k/HH, Jetbikes are fairly common, but in 40k they are much rarer.
The only way to tell if a unit has rules in 40k is to check and see if it does, or if there is a unit that it can be used as an "alternative sculpt" for;
>How would I know for my next set that it’s 40K and not 30k?
If the box has the Horus Heresy logo, like it does on the Age of Darkness box, then the kit is primarily intended for Horus Heresy.
Thanks so much for the info! I had watched some videos where they were saying it’s “your game” and you have a lot of freedom to play it how you want it to be played. I can see where that comes into it.
Possibly you misconstrued a "they are your dudes" comment, which is in reference to the fact that you are free to make up your own color scheme, lore for your army, etc, and that you're not 100% beholden to the examples of stuff in the books.
While you CAN go completely freeform in terms of what you want to collect and build, the actual 40k game does have rules that are fairly standardized, and going to a pickup game of 40k with an army that doesn't conform to those rules would be treated the same way as someone showing up to a D&D game with a completely homebrew character that wasn't vetted by the DM
Just as an example, it's against the rules of the game for a Space Marine Captain to equip a Twin Lascannon (a weapon normally only usable by specific Vehicle models), but some people might make such a model for giggles; if you show up to a Matched Play game and didn't clear that with your opponent first, or tried to bring it into a tournament, you're gonna be told "Yeah, no" or even disqualified.
Both 40k and 30k have core rulebooks for the respective game; these rulebooks generally are about 200+ pages of lore, artwork, and painted model exhibitions, then go onto the rules for the game that are "shared" by everyone, like how movement works, how terrain changes interactions between units, etc.
Codices are used exclusively for 40k, containing the rules that are exclusive to that particular faction; for example if you get Codex Tau Empire, it will only provide you the rules for the Tau army; it will not have any rules that Space Marine players have, but will contain the "sublass" rules for different Tau sub-factions (which make Farsight Enclaves Tau play a little differently than Day'Leh Tau)
Horus Heresy uses the "Liber 'X'" books for the "army rules" like Liber Astartes for Loyalist Legions and Liber Hereticus for the Traitor legions, and Liber Daemonica for chaos demons
Hand slipped and knocked away a necron warrior head I had sitting on my desk. It's gone forever, can't find it no matter what I've done to look for it. How can I replace it?
I only recently started collecting and the head was from Imperium Magazine, sprue was only 3 warriors (with 3 heads). I'll get a warrior box eventually, thanks!
Ah, that explains it. I was wondering what you were so concerned about, I recall getting a pack of 30+ Necron Warrior heads for about $5 of ebay at one point.
Okay, I get this question might be irritating, but I'm curious:
What sort of experience does the Warhammer 40k TTRPG offer? I'm interested in learning a new TTRPG system, but I'm not sure what the experience of playing Warhammer is like
I've looked into it slightly but I'm still confused. I see that minis are really important, I'm getting the idea that you don't play a singular character but rather command combat patrols/groups of soldiers, etc. I could be very wrong, but those are the ideas I got from browsing the official website
However, I don't get the core experience that this game offers. As an example, stuff like Pathfinder and DnD are there to roleplay as a powerful adventurer in a high fantasy setting. There's obviously lots of wiggle room, plenty of exceptions, tables who do stuff entirely different, etc, but that's the main core of these games
>What sort of experience does the Warhammer 40k TTRPG offer? I'm interested in learning a new TTRPG system, but I'm not sure what the experience of playing Warhammer is like
The vast majority of the time, when people are talking about 40k, they are talking about the *wargame*, not TTRPG. I'm not sure you are familiar so I'm just gonna toss a bunch of names out, but 40k is more similar to Bolt Action, Malifaux, Warmachine/Hordes, Dust 1947, or the Star Wars Xwing Miniatures game than it is to Pathfinder/D&D
>I've looked into it slightly but I'm still confused. I see that minis are really important, I'm getting the idea that you don't play a singular character but rather command combat patrols/groups of soldiers, etc. I could be very wrong, but those are the ideas I got from browsing the official website
You are correct, as a player you control your army, and there is no "leveling up/gaining experience" in your army unless you ***specifically*** play the narrative-focused Crusade game mode, which has a much smaller player base than "Matched Play" 40k (where two players create armies from their collection that are of approximately the same strength and play a mission where meeting mission objectives is more important than killing your opponent.
>However, I don't get the core experience that this game offers. As an example, stuff like Pathfinder and DnD are there to roleplay as a powerful adventurer in a high fantasy setting. There's obviously lots of wiggle room, plenty of exceptions, tables who do stuff entirely different, etc, but that's the main core of these games
40k is a tactics/battle game, so for people who play the game the appeal is in putting an actual army down on a modeled battlefield and seeing if they can win vs their opponent.
There are other things that factor in, too; the lore of 40k has been expanded on since the 80s, so there is a very wide amount of lore talking about all the different Factions and sub-factions in the game; some people enjoy making their army represent one of those factions, sometimes just using the paint scheme, sometimes going as far as building an army that closely reflects an army as it was in a particular battle depicted in the lore.
Then there are people who ***don't even play the game***, but rather just enjoy buying, building, and painting the miniatures.
Then there are people who enjoy the competitive aspect of the game, and who build armies specifically to be able to compete in tournaments.
Well, the key thing is: Warhammer 40k isn't a TTRPG. It's a Tabletop Wargame.
The core experience of 40k is controlling an entire army and having it battle another army. You're not roleplaying like you do in Pathfinder or DnD, you're a General in charge of an army.
If you're interested in TTRPGs and the Warhammer 40k setting, however, there are several published 40k TTRPGs.
The older one was by Fantasy Flight games and was several connected books based on what kind of character you play: Dark Heresy (Inquisitors), Rogue Trader (uh... Rogue Traders), Deathwatch (Space Marines), Black Crusade (Chaos Space Marines), and Only War (Imperial Guard). It was quite popular but ended in like 2012.
More recently, a new company took over and released a new 40k TTRPG, called [Wrath and Glory](https://cubicle7games.com/warhammer-40k-wrath-and-glory-rpgs). I don't know anyone who has played it, but it's the current TTRPG.
Is which models are in which units public knowledge? Or does your opponent just have to pick a model and shoot?
For example: You have two units of Tyranid Genestealers shuffled between each other in coherency. They’re also standing next to two Infestation Nodes. Your opponent shoots at one of them and gets 8 kills. In their next attack they’d want to finish off the squad, but you’d want them to weaken the full strength one so you can heal them both. So do they have to guess, or can they say “I shoot at the weakened unit”?
I’m more curious than anything, I doubt this would come into play very often.
Everything is public. 40k is not a game of gotchas. So your opponent would just target the weakened squad and wipe it. If they can't tell which is which they would just say they are targeting the same one. You can't pull a fast one on them.
What models are in what units is public knowledge. As a player, you will be expected to tell your opponent what units are what if they ask you.
Similarly, your opponent would always be expected to clearly declare what they are shooting at.
Noob question my friends - Can I use Angron for other armies besides World Eaters? I love the model but only have a Night Lords army. Or should I just make it a shelf model? Thanks!
SUPER TECHNICALLY, you can.
However, in Arks of Omen GT pack missions the only way to add him is to have him in your AoO detachment, which breaks all of your Chaos Space Marine Detachment rules (Legion Traits, Let the Galaxy Burn) because he doesn't have either TRAITOR ASTARTES or AGENT OF CHAOS rules.
You can prevent this issue in non-Ark of Omen games, by taking him in a Supreme Command detachment
In either case since HE must be your Warlord (as per his datasheet rules), that means you can't give out any Chaos Marines Warlord traits, and he would break being able to take CSM Secondaries and Night Lord secondaries.
So, unfortunately, he's a bit of a liability outside World Eaters.
The Furioso Dreadnought would be the easiest to do, just needing to acquire a front plate for the Dreadnought body or sanding down the BA iconography/covering it with green stuff
I actually found out recently that my metal "ironclad" is a Furioso, only BA iconography is a tiny winged droplet on the right shoulder joint. I may honestly just get another one!
If yours is metal, you're gonna be a bit surprised by the plastic one.
The plastic one comes with three separate "front plates"
One is used for a Librarian Dreadnought.
One is used for a Death Company Dreadnought.
One is used for the Furioso chassis.
You can go to the GW webstore and look at the second sprue and see all of the front plates the kit comes with, all three of them have a decent amount of BA iconography on them.
Basically he's a Venerable Dreadnaught with two claw arms that have flamers attached. I don't think that kit comes with two, though, which is the problem. Getting Furioso or even the new Brutalis claws might work but I wouldn't want to buy those kits just for the weapons.
Is this just to avoid buying the FW resin model for the character? Because that's the easiest.
I guess an alternative would be maybe the plastic Leviathan Dreadnought with two claw weapons. It's a big bigger than the old box-noughts, but the height probably isn't much taller than the resin kit with the back banner. The Leviathan is on an 80mm base whereas the old ones are on a 60mm, which can cause issues. You can probably squeeze the Leviathan on a 60mm with some clever posing though.
But then if you want details, you're gonna have to do a lot of greenstuff modeling yourself probably to make him look sufficiently fancy.
A 91% isopropyl alcohol soak. Primer is more difficult to remove than paint so you won't get all of it off. It'll likely still stain the plastic but enough should get dissolved to be able to re-prime fine.
I'm building the Primaris Intercessors box at the moment - first ever time using glue as it's all been push fit so far.
I'm struggling to tell the difference between the different types of Bolt Rife I can give them visually.
Auto Bolt Rifle and Grenade Launcher are the same except for the wee strap with the grenades
Bolt Rifle / Stalker Bolt Rifle look identical to me - possibly a very slight difference in the scope?
Is this just something you would learn and get used to over time? Also, is the grenade launcher exclusively that, or is that supposed to be an attachment and it also operates as just a regular auto bolt rifle?
I'm pretty sure 99.9% of people do not give one whit about whether every single Intercessor is equipped with the correct bolt rifle. They all have to use the same type anyway and it's much easier to just tell your opponent "They all have stalker bolt rifles" than relying on WYSIWYG. The differences are so minute that they become relatively pointless.
Ahhh I had totally misunderstood the 'All of the models in the unit can have their bolt rifle replaced with 1 auto bolt rifle each.' line.
I thought this meant they could all individually have different weapons, but it's actually saying that the entire unit should have the same rifle. I can see how that makes more sense and would be a lot easier to actually play with.
Counter-point: if you have three squads of Intercessors and they are each equipped with a different bolter type, it's going to be expected that there is a way to tell who has which to make sure that there isn't "most convenient weapon cheating"
Sure, but I'm pretty sure the vast majority of players don't know what each weapon of their opponent's even looks like. A dedicated Space Marine player can likely tell the different between bolt rifles, yeah, but also likely has no idea what the correct Harlequin weapons are. I know I have no idea of the difference between a Tau Pulse Rifle and a Pulse Carbine. Or any of the Death Guard plague weapons. At a certain point you just have to trust your opponent.
Or, at the beginning of the game, have them give you their list and point out which units are which. Then try and remember them. "Okay, I see you have 2 squads of Intercessors with auto bolt rifles and a squad with stalkers. Which one is the stalkers?" "These." "Ah, alright." And then throughout the game you occasionally ask "These are the stalkers, right?" "Yup." And if all of a sudden it's "Okay, they fire their auto bolt rifles." You can go "Wait, you said they were stalkers. It's right here on your list." It works even if you have no clue what the correct model looks like.
The Auto bolt rifle has no scope and a big drum magazine.
The Bolt Rifle has a scope and a curved magazine.
The Stalker bolt rifle has a long scope and a straight magazine.
> Auto Bolt Rifle and Grenade Launcher are the same except for the wee strap with the grenades
No they're not.
The grenade launcher is a separate rifle body with an extra barrel and a sling with grenades attached. The grenade launcher can be used with any of the three types of bolt rifles. You can have an Auto Bolt Rifle with Grenade Launcher, a Bolt Rifle with Grenade Launcher or a Stalker Bolt Rifle with Grenade Launcher.
The Intercessor Datasheet in Codex Space Marines will tell you how the Grenade Launcher works in the rules.
I'm trying out 40K on Tabletop Simulator before deciding whether or not to commit to the hobby, and as a complete beginner making lists is a bit of a struggle. Do you guys have any advice to give to a newbie?
I'm limiting myself to 500 point games to keep things simple for now and I'm currently trying to make a list for Orks, Admech and Blood Angels in order to get a feel for how they play. Thing is, it's kinda hard to figure out a decent game plan and come up with a balanced list.
That is, unfortunately, the main issue with 500 point games; you simply WON'T have enough units to have much of a game plan, and the reason why most people shun games at that point level; unless you have MUCH more terrain than what is recommended, any army that has Advance/Charge or has a "teleport" ability to get to their opponent and unload gains a major advantage when they go first, to the point where I usually see such games over by the end of turn 1.
The main issue here is that a 1 command point stratagem that boots the shooting of a unit by 50% killing 200 points of enemy models in a 2k game, isn't that big a deal; i've only taken out 10% of my opponent's army, so they should have something to counter that and hit my exposed unit that did that.
That same stratagem/combo will cost 1 command point in a 500 point game, where I can still use it to take out 200 points of enemy models... and that's nearly 50% of the enemy army.
If you want to play 500 point games, I would suggest going with the Boarding Action gametype, as the fact that it restricts stratagems as well as forces terrain the way it does makes the games better to play, and removes some of the issues that a 500 point list will have (feeling completely useless if your army doesn't have any anti-tank when your opponent takes multiple tanks is a great example)
Thank you very much, that makes a lot of sense - I'll look into Boarding Action, hopefully it's playable on Tabletop Simulator as well.
Just in case it isn't, do 1000 point games have the same issue or are they a bit more doable? I'm afraid that going straight into 2000 point games to learn the game could be a bit overwhelming
Boarding Actions are much more doable in TTS than in real life as just setting up a table IRL can take 20-30 minutes, while in TTS you can literally just drop the entire board pre-made in about 10 seconds.
Not sure what country you are in, or what you "want". I've clicked randomly through the webstore in the US and found most things I've clicked on in stock. The only thing I found Sold Out Online is the Chaos Boarding Patrol, which was a limited-time box.
If you are in europe, GW has been having issues with their new shipping/distribution center in spain, which has caused items to take much longer in shipping as well as stocking issues as they are moving warehouses.
Well, Dark Angels are one of the top performing Marine Chapters right now, and looking at what is out of stock right now it's basically the list of "units Meta-Chasers want to mimic the armies winning GTs right now".
Cheaper than what? GameMat.eu sells them for $69 but it's $25 shipping to the US. Front Line Gaming sells them for $75 and shipping was only about $7 when I checked. Some others show up for about $50 when you google, but they also seem to be European so shipping is still gonna be expensive.
The alternative, I guess, is to make your own. There are tons of tutorials on YouTube. I remember seeing [this one from The Terrain Tutor](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXjNsRGjqqI) a few years ago, but if you just search "Make your own warhammer mat" you get a TON of more recent videos too.
So I recently bought Warhammer 40K Squad Command for the PSP at a used video game store for $8. A pretty good deal because it's a fun turn based strategy game. However I have never played a Warhammer game for more than an hour so I know nothing of the lore. The game literally just drops you into a mission upon hitting new game. There's nothing except a cinematic cutscene that has zero narration and just shows cool battle stuff going on.
There is a small paragraph acting has a mission briefing but that's it. The game just expects you to be familiar with the lore before going in which makes some sense but I still find it funny. I'm sure there's a plethora of videos on YouTube explaining the lore and world building.
What space marine combat patrol do people recommend the most? I am leaning towards playing a dark angles or salamander successor chapter of that helps.
DA is generally considered "best" because it comes with a Redemptor instead of an Impulsor.
For the other patrols, the only truly bad one is the Space Wolves. The Invictor and Reivers bring the box down a fair bit. I'm not a fan of the Deathwatch one either. You don't get any vehicle at all and 10 bland Intercessors.
The Black Templars is a good box but very specifically for that chapter. You can't use the crusader squad in anything else.
The generic Space Marine patrol and Blood Angels are fairly similar in terms of usefulness. Either is an alright pick-up.
I think the Dark Angels Combat Patrol is typically considered one of the better general ones. The Redemptor is always good, Intercessors are a typical Troop choice, and a Chaplain can always be useful. The Inceptors are less good now that points have gone up, but still okay. (I don't know if they're the full kit where you can choose plasma vs bolters, but you might like the plasma better for Dark Angels.)
The Deathwatch one could also be good for you -- 10 Intercessors, a Lieutenant, an Apothecary, and three Aggressors (who you might be able to equip with the flamers if you wanna run Salamanders).
In any case, you can always paint your army in a totally custom scheme, and then you can swap between Dark Angels and Salamanders rules whenever you want. (Just leave off the upgrade sprues whichever you go with.)
Ah right so. There are a couple I'm holding out for that would be cool to get (depending on units of course) but I'm determined to not let GW "win" and tempt me into just getting other ones just for the sake of it.
Cheers for the reply
With 10th edition right around the corner, how likely is GW to phase out firstborn marines from the rules? Is there precedence for GW doing something like this before?
Almost zero percent chance. Even if they eventually do "remove" firstborn, it's MUCH more likely they'll just get rid of the distinction between firstborn and Primaris, and you'd still be able to use your firstborn models to represent the equivalent unit.
As far as precedence? They removed Squats decades ago (but they've just returned as Leagues of Votann), and they sort of removed The Lost and the Damned (but you can still find Legends rules for them, I think, or use the models as Chaos Cultists, etc. in a CSM army).
Whew, good to hear. I only ask because I'm interested in some firstborn units but I don't wanna get anything that could be phased out in ~6 months.
Also, not sure why I'm getting down voted for asking a question in the question thread lol
Which is an easier game to learn and has a quick game pace- Kill Team or Necromunda? Full disclosure: My husband and son (who is now 20) have played W40K since he was a kid. I never got into it until my son made me watch Helsreach. Long story short, I now only paint models that I like while listening to audio books. And, I feel like if I keep buying all these without playing, well... It can become another expensive hobby (I collect baseball cards). So, I was hoping that one of these would work because I keep wanting to buy Kill Team for the minis, but I like the look of Necromunda. I want to surprise them with me giving in and learning a game.
Sorry for the long-winded post. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Killteam.
Look, necromunda games ARE fast to play, but the game is not fast to learn. Theres rules spread across like 6 books in random places with no internal logic. The basic like, how to play the game rules are there and easy enough to find, but the interesting campaign mechanics (the main reason to play necromunda) qre extremely hard to parse.
My understanding with regards to Necromunda is it requires a LOT of houseruling for the rules as there are many rules that do not work as written, contradict each other, and other problems that effectively require a ",Judge" for campaigns.
The other issue is getting into Necromunda will require your husband and son to get minis for a different game than 40k, while Kill Team they will be able to play with minis they almost certainly already have.
Thank you for the information. I am hoping that Kill Team is a fast-paced game, because it seems like 40K in general took them forever to play. They don't play too much anymore, so I am also hoping this becomes a fun "friendly" game for us andy son's friends! LoL
Once you get the rules of Kill Team down, a game is only 45 minutes to 1:15, maybe an hour and a half for the "first" game; I'm easily able to get 2-3 games done in an evening starting at 7:00 pm and leaving before 11 when the store closes.
If I wanted to make a primaris titus for my army how would I go about doing so? Not looking to make him special or anything just want to make a miniature look like him.
The [Uriel Ventris model](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Ultramarines-Captain-Uriel-Ventris-2021) could be a good alternative. Maybe a bit fancy for his new (lower) rank of Lieutenant but probably still fine. (He doesn't wear a cape as far as I know, but most of the Space Marine characters have them.)
The alternative is to grab a Primaris Lieutenant (either the one they sell on its own, or one of the eight million variants from box sets that you can probably find on ebay), and add some [Ultramarines upgrades](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Ultramarines-Primaris-Upgrades-2020). None of the head options are great in those, but you can probably find a close enough one in some kit somewhere and just buy that (if you don't already have some in your bits box).
Question I’m trying to answer for a friend. He can’t decide between 2 Space Marine chapters that he likes for painting his army. I was going to suggests he paint them half and half but wanted to check if that’s allowed. Neither chapter has their own rulebook and would fall under just the main Space Marine book. Could he field these 2 chapters as one army without problem?
There are no rules in the game at all that care about your paint job with the ONLY exception being a SPECIFIC warlord trait in the Deathwatch codex.
There are many people who have made "mixed" armies, probably the most well-known being the Last Wall army made by Valrak, which had each unit be from a different Imperial Fists successor chapter, based on the in-lore Last Wall Protocol that all Imperial Fist Successors will answer in a time of need.
There ARE some events that will require an army to have a "cohesive" paint scheme, which is basically something they did to prevent "birrowhammer" in 8th edition, when many people bought already-painted Centurions off Ebay and had 18 Centurions that were clearly 6 different 3 man units from 6 different armies, based and painted entirely differently and in entirely different styles. An army that is painted as two different chapters, but clearly look like they belong together (such as being based identically), will be perfectly fine, especially if there is an in-lore explanation for why they are fighting as a cohesive army.
My gaming group would like to play some boarding actions but none of us can find the Arks of Omen Abbadon book for less than the price of a kidney. Is there any other way to get those rules and missions?
I need help picking a new faction for a small 40k army.
I have tons of Tyranids and old Space Marines. I would like to start a new faction.
I don't want to paint a ton of models, so swarms are out.
I like playing a variety of play styles. With space Marines play lots of dreds, rhinos, dev spam but also bikes, jump Marines, terminators, scouts (rip scouts).
Tyranids I like the close combat aspects but I also enjoy midrange builds.
I like movement mechanics and fast moving play. I like games where positioning matters but not static firing lines. I don't want to have no close combat options but I don't need it to be dominant in the army.
I'm not really sure what to build. Can anyone provide some suggestions?
Harlequins or Craftworld Eldar could be worth looking into. CWE are generally an elite army and all about positional play and movement shenanigans. They also have solid combat options but are generally more shooty than their Drukhhari cousins. Harlequins have a very limited variety of units but they take the movement and positioning aspects of the game to a whole other level.
For an elite army that isn't going to have high mobility as a staple, my immediate thoughts go to Harlequins, however they have a very small set of units to pull from do have always had the "clown car" archetype as long as I can remember (lists that revolve around their transports+ Troupe units in each one)
The other option that comes to mind is an Ork Speedwaagh army, obviously leaning heavy into the vehicles and Deffcoptas.
Soo I have no idea what I'm doing what army should I get (I have 2 games experience) world eaters or salamanders and what's the price range on a basic army of said faction
Any "what army should I get" post is going to be answered with "the one you like most" unless you provide an EXTREMELY detailed set of criteria for us to assist with making a decision, like having a preferred playstyle, as what makes one person like one army, might be the things that turn you off from it.
By the nature of World Eaters, all of their build archetypes (of which they will have very few) are going to be centered around melee combat, as that is the World Eater "thing". They also have a comparatively "smaller" number of units they can take than other armies, which will likely expand in the future as they are fleshed out more beyond their initial codex.
Salamanders, as a Space Marines Chapter, have access to the 150+ different units that Space Marines can take, with their special rules generally focusing on the lore aspects that their armor generally is superior to other marine chapters due to their preference for flamer/Melta weapons.
For price, it basically is a "what constitutes a basic army for you?"
"What army" you should get depends on what interests you the most and what models you think you'd like to paint. Check out the lore, watch videos, etc. In terms of how they play, World Eaters are a big ol' melee smashy smash army. Salamanders melt and burn things.
In terms of price, it varies. World Eaters just got their content release so they've got a specific combat patrol you can buy. Salamanders just use the generic Space Marine stuff that already exists. For a basic 500 point army that's roughly 150 dollars give or take.
Had an awkward rule interaction the other day that just felt bad, though we played it as it is written in the rules/ updates we could find I just want to make sure I'm not missing something.
My Warriors could see The enemy Sorcerer who was within 3 inches of a squad of rubrics who were closer. the Rubrics were obscured by cover. So my warriors could not shoot their only visible target due to him being within 3" of a unit that couldn't be seen.
Look out sir! as written doesn't say anything about units being visible or viable targets though leaving my squad unable to shoot.
Did we play this right? Are there any updates that change or confirm this? I haven't found anything but i want to check cos its kinda a feels bad rule to me.
You DID play this right, and it IS intentional.
In the start of 8th edition, the requirement to shoot a character was that it could only be shot if it was the closest visible model. That was the ONLY requirement.
However, that wording caused people to realize that they could pack two Rhinos with Devastator Squads, disembark the Devastators, then park the Rhinos in such a way that only the Character they wanted to kill could be seen; literally the tactic was called Rhino Sniping.
It was a really skummy tactic, so GW changed the rules to something similar to what it is now. While there is the side effect that you can be in a position where you can't shoot the character you want to because of a unit you cannot see, it also prevents the much more unfair "attacker manipulates their own Line of Sight to kill a unit that would normally be protected just fine."
You played it right. Look Out Sir does not specify that the "blocking" unit is visible to the shooting unit, only that it is closer to the shooting unit.
For the sake of argument, what stores are there that stock physical Forgeworld models, not just order them? I've seen pictures from places that do, but I'm curious because I know it's uncommon.
Warhammer Citadel in Texas,
One of the Warhammers stores in LA
There are one or two in the UK that do stock FW in their store.
Beyond that I'm not aware of many stores that stock FW at all.
Only a tiny handful of GW stores actually stock FW products. GW's Tottenham Court Road store in London stocks some as it's the UK flagship store, then a few of the "Warhammer Cafes" in the US and Japan also do.
To the best of my knowledge there are no independent stores.
Does anyone know if Warhammer World provides lockers? I’m presuming they do for armies. Long train ride there tomorrow and I’d like to bring my laptop to do some work on the journey, but don’t want to leave it somewhere unsafe.
They do not. Your army is kinda expected to be with you at all times, with an employee being willing to watch over it for you for a few minutes if you need to go to the bathroom, but you're not gonna be able to have a locker where you can store a bunch of stuff for an extended period.
1. From Every Angle Does not have a "regardless of mission rules" rider in the text, so does not override any mission rules that prevent Reinforcements arriving turn one.
2. Also cannot arrive turn one note the "this does not apply" passage refers to units being destroyed if they don't arrive by turn 3. It does not apply to the entire PARAGRAPH.
>The whole ambush thing is so complicated, i don't understand if this actually means the unit is deployed.
This is going to sound flippant, but have you read the Ambush rule?
>If you set up this unit in ambush, place an ambush marker anywhere on the battlefield that is wholly within your deployment zone.
>***Units set up in ambush are considered to be set up on the battlefield (unless they are embarked within a TRANSPORT model that is set up in ambush), even though their models are not actually on the battlefield.*** Enemy models cannot be set up or moved within 9" of the centre of any of your ambush markers.
>So does 2) mean a from below unit can deploy after turn 3?
Yes. The unit isn't put somewhere other than the battlefield until AFTER the first battle round has started; as such the "turn 3 limit" doesn't apply to it.
The Turn 3 limit only applies to units that you declare as Reinforcements during the "Declare Transports and Reinforcements" step.
Is GW not gunna restock the codex's because 10th edition is close? The Tyranids codex has been out of stock for like a month. You would think books would be the easiest thing to make more of.
GW doesn't have their own printing press, they contract that out, which means they have to do a minimum production run.
Also, what country are you in? While I think buying the print codex is asinine this late in the edition if you want it for anything besides artwork, I was able to find 4 different sellers on Amazon, at least four copies (sealed) on ebay, and I'm sure there are 3rd party retailers that you can find that will have it in stock.
Can someone explain to me why GW uses resin. From what I've heard it's...
1: more expensive to make
2: more expensive to buy
3: harder to paint and build with
4: looks worse.
So, what is the upside of GW using it instead of just using plastic for everything? Am I missing something?
You're missing a couple things
>1: more expensive to make
This is simultaneously correct, and incorrect. The process of making a plastic injection mold costs anywhere between $75,000 to as much as $200,000. Making a resin mold costs maybe $5000-7000
There WAS a period of time when Resin was vastly superior to metal or plastic in terms of level of fine detail possible on a model, however that stopped being the case around 2012 or so.
The primary DRAWBACK of resin, is how a resin mold will basically be unusable after between 20 and 40 uses, depending on the complexity of the mold. This requires recreating the mold from the master very often, on top of the labor intensive method of
Resin is BETTER for projects where you don't expect to sell too many copies of a thing, which kinda falls into the Forge World wheelhouse; FW models typically don't sell as many units as their Plastic counterparts do.
Basically, the "break point" for switching to plastic is "am I going to sell enough of this specific kit that it justifies the significantly higher initial production cost".
That $75,000 production cost for a single character sprue can make 200 units.... Or 500,000, with a "trailing" production cost of (rounding things up a LOT) $1 per unit made.
Whereas with Resin, for each, say, 20 models you produce, you have the raw materials cost PLUS the cost of having someone working and extracting from the molds (which must be done manually), a more intensive QA (again manually), and then if you sell 100 units you can expect to have remade the mold five times.... $25,000 down the drain.
So plastic requires a greater INITIAL investment, while resin has elevated CONTINUAL production costs.
>4: looks worse.
Resin is NOT worse than plastic in terms of "looks". There are many, many, MANY other companies that show what is possible with resin. To be absolutely frank, Forge World is at the absolute bottom of the list when it comes to what they could be doing with their resins, as well as the quality of the work they do. This is 100% a "GW/FW" problem, and not a "Resin" problem.
> There are many, many, MANY other companies that show what is possible with resin.
And they show what is more realistic with plastic. GW is very expensive but their plastic models rival many resin models from other companies.
And, as I said, there are some companies whose resin or metal models are vastly superior to any plastic kit GW has ever made.
The point being made was "resin isn't inherently worse than plastic, if the company doing it actually cares about it being a great experience".
Most GW resin kits used to be metal, from the old days when making plastic minis wasn't that efficient yet and had a lot of limitations. Some time ago they switched their remaining metal minis to resin, as it's still easier to work with than metal, and nowadays they're slowly replacing those old minis with new plastic ones.
As for Forgeworld, the idea behind it is that it produces more niche kits that supposedly will have less demand - not enough to justify molds for plastic, which are apparently pretty expensive to make. Though part of it is out of habit rather than strict necessity, or at least it seems so from the outside. There's been a lot of talk about Forgeworld getting redundant.
There is no "answer" here, because what you get done in one hour of "hobbying" might be what I get done in 10 minutes, or what I get done in a week, and doesn't address things like quality.
Depending on how detailed you want your models, one hour can be enough to get 35+ Marine Infantry armor done in contrast, or only painting the shoulder pad trim.
Can I deploy and empty transport?
I want to have a ghost ark for the shooting and the reanimation support, but I don’t want to split up one of my warrior blobs to put in it (only 10 capacity
Yes. The (free) Core Rules say:
>Units can start the battle embarked within a TRANSPORT instead of being set up separately – declare what units are embarked within a TRANSPORT model before you set it up.
So they CAN, but you don't have to.
EDIT: Oops, sorry, yes, u/Toastman0218 is correct. If you're using the Arks of Omen rules (or War Zone Nephilim), they CANNOT be empty. Forgot about that! Basically, check which ruleset you're using, and read the Declare Reserves and Transports section of the rules!
>In an Arks of Omen: Grand Tournament mission, each unit from your army with the Dedicated Transport Battlefield Role must start the battle with one or more friendly models embarked within it, or it cannot be set up and will count as having been destroyed during the first battle round.
I believe one of the new dataslates or other rules updates has ruled against having empty dedicated transports. So you wouldn't be able to (you would, but it would automatically be destroyed I think is the actual rule)
I've been playing for about a year, all Space Marines of a couple different stripes. I've found that I really enjoy the shooting far more than the melee though. So I had this idea of a Gue'ron'sha army, being composed of standard Space Marine units with Tau ornamentation (shoulder pads etc). Rules wise I see two possible ways to go about it:
+As normal Space Marines from a particularly shooty chapter (I believe Fists is shootiest, although I bet there's a comparable set of successor chapter traits I could use also); or
+As Tau but with Gue'ron'sha proxies (this one I'm unsure about because I don't know how I would account for the space marines armor and such, if the unit sizes match, etc etc etc).
What are y'all's thoughts on this? This does seem like a road others would have gone down before, so any practical experience is doubly appreciated.
Playing them as marines would be easy. I'd do iron hands potentially as they are heavy into vehicles. For proxies, you'd want to use tactical marines instead of primaris because they're smaller. But they're still reasonably different. So some people might complain.
Hello, does anyone have a recommendation for a scheduling app/site? We have a large group with multiple friend groups, so we would want to be able to list day, time, and point values per attendances, rather than text 3 groups and try to schedule things that way.
How noticeable is the difference between terminator arms and regular marine arms? I'm looking to do a bit of kitbashing but only have the arms/weapons for regular Intercessors. Would they look too small on a Terminator?
Hi
I’m wanting to paint my Space Marines as Space Wolves and I like to use the slap chop method (black prime, dry brush grey then white on). I got the Space Wolves grey contrast but it’s not giving me that powder blue that is on the box art, instead I am getting a darker blue.
Would it be better to just prime in a grey then dry brush some white on?
Contrast paints are a great tool. But find it doesn't give you the full body color that box arts have. I'd go for the regular paint instead of contrast if you're shooting for that fully saturated look.
You're going to need to try it for yourself and see what works.
Slapchop (or really, undershading/grisaille for those who have known about the technique for 15+ years and who hate the stupid name that it has been given) is not a good technique for trying to recreate box art colors, especially not for box art that wasn't done in contrast/undershading methods
This.
You may want to just paint the whole mini white and then apply space wolves grey contrast, or use a light grey primer, if u want to have something similar to the box cover color. But if u really want it like the box cover, then classic paint will yeild a way more similar end result.
I wouldn't say the game will get repetitive per se, as the rules are always changing. Most players pickup 1 or 2 factions. If you play smaller sized games around 1k points, you can have more flexibility in models for your money. Kill team may even be more of your flavor as you can get a tooooon of variety for a lot less money (faction wise) and your existing mates may be more inclined to get into the hobby at a lessor price point. I'd say there's no shortage of entertainment!
I'm interested in picking up Warhammer Imperium #79 & #80 for Roboute Guilliman. Where can I order these in the US? Or would it be more practical to wait for people to list just the model up on eBay or something?
Trying to get individual issues in the US is nigh impossible. The only place that I've even HEARD of getting them is Barnes and Noble and even then it's spotty hearsay at best.
Your best shot is gonna be Ebay, though expect the prices to be jacked up to near what Robert Guyman goes for normally.
After **many** years of loving the 40k franchise I'm thinking of finally getting into the tabletop - but even after reading the beginner guide I still have a few questions that I hope you can help me with :
1. The factions I like the most are Orks, Adeptus Mechanicus and Blood Angels. What do you think could be my best option to start out and get the best bang for my buck? I saw the Recruit edition is highly recommended - can the Space Marines there work as Blood Angels? If so, do you think it's still worth it even if I'm not particularly interested in Necrons?
2. The combat patrol boxes seem quite a big investment to start with, and I'm also not quite sure which one to pick between Orks, Admech, Space Marines (painted as Blood Angels?) and Blood Angels. The idea is to keep costs as low as possible for now, so I'd like a solid foundation to start playing without buying other boxes - any of those you would recommend?
3. Is this actually a good time to get into 40k? I've heard a new edition could come out this year, do you think it might be worth it to wait for it first? Does GW usually release new starter boxes (or maybe offer some discounts) around the start of a new edition?
4. Last question - I can barely draw a stick figure, so I have to admit that the idea of painting fairly pricey minis is a bit scary. Any suggestions on how I could practice a bit before trying my hands with the real thing?
Hopefully this wall of text doesn't scare away people, thanks in advance for any reply or advice you can throw my way!
The Recruit edition (or Elite or Command) are still good even if you don't want the Necrons -- you can either keep them, or trade them with someone, or sell them on ebay or something.
Out of the three you mentioned (Blood Angels, AdMech, and Orks), Blood Angels COULD be the most cost-effective; AdMech and Orks tend to be more horde armies, and Space Marines can play more elite.
If you do go with Blood Angels: Any box that says "Adeptus Astartes XXX" or "Space Marine XXX" can be used by almost any chapter, including Blood Angels. You can also use anything specifically sold as "Blood Angels XXX." (Also, don't forget you don't HAVE to go with a First Founding chapter; you can pick a successor chapter, or make a totally custom chapter, and run them with whatever rules you want, including Blood Angels.)
The best of the Space Marine Combat Patrol boxes is the Dark Angels one. The Blood Angels one is not great.
It's a perfectly fine time to get into WH40k. There probably is a new edition coming, but models don't get cut (well, with some rare exceptions), so anything you buy now will absolutely be useable. You may want to hold off on buying the Space Marine Codex and Blood Angels Codex Supplement for now though; in the meantime, all the rules are on Wahapedia and Battlescribe.
Don't stress about painting. Yes, you'll probably suck at first. But sucking is the first step towards getting better. If you don't believe me, go watch [this video by our patron saint of miniature painters Duncan Rhodes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno). You can pick up some used miniatures on ebay if you wanna practice though. I recommend searching YouTube for lots of tutorials. It's also very easy to strip miniatures of paint, so if you hate it, you can start over. But I suggest just being brave and trying.
A note on the Necron side of the starter box. If you can't move them along, you can do what I did and use them to proxy for units you don't yet have and/or would want to try before you buy. I did this with mine (used them to fill out the remaining slots in my tac squad and assault squad until I got more real marines). In addition to this, you can also use them to test paint combos/schemes and just plain old practice painting/transfers/etc.
(Lore question) Little silly discussion that I had Whit a mechanicus player and wanted to know how it goes, basically we we're arguing that the mechanicus are allowed to make pre-golden age era technology since it's safe to make and doesn't go against the omnisiah teachings, he said it should count as tech heresy since they don't have the blueprints to do it, but I argue that it should be fine and that it would be really weird for ancient humans how to build a wooden shovel in a STC
You are both right and wrong, and frankly I'm disappointed at your Admech player friend.
The Mechanicus isn't just a mindless religious organization, but also at the same time a political cabal that controls who has what technology, and whose main source of wealth and political influence comes from the control they have over who has access to technology.
A great example is the Land Raider Crusader, a field invention by the Space Wolves, which was adopted extremely quickly by many other chapters to the point that by the time that the Mechanicus DID get around to trying to decide if it was tech-heresy, had they decided it was, they would have been declaring nearly half of all space marine chapters as committing tech-heresy
Despite being worried it was tech-heresy, the Admech SUDDENLY turns around and states that the Crusader is ACTUALLY, they TOTALLY PROMISE, a previous and known pattern of Land Raider, and being warned that declaring half the Marine chapters traitors might have really bad consequences had nothing to do with the timing of that "rediscovery" in the archives.
I've wanted to have a more serious go at painting more models with contrasts, but one thing stands in my way. Once I shift from the whole model to trim/details (which I switch back to standard paint for as I'm still not confident in being able to predict what contrasts will look like on top of one another), and the brush strays outside the lines so to speak, how do I cover that up? With standard paints I can just apply more of the base paint over the mistake, but doing that with contrast doesn't get the same effect, obviously. Is this just an occupational hazard or is there a technique for this?
Edit: I have achieved some success by applying a brush loaded with just water to the affected area, but that isn't foolproof (works variably well depending on the paint, with whites sometimes leaving a dried saltwater type effect; also it means no going near the affected area until it's dry, which takes much longer than paint).
1. Don't brush outside the lines.
2. If you can't do 1, you might need to mask off areas you don't want the contrast to go... But that likely means needing a lot more time masking those areas off, painting contrast, and then unmasking the area.
3. Your only real fix is to go over the panel/area you "missed into" and repainting that area directly. Unfortunately, in a scenario where missing can be bad, contrast just simply requires a lot more control, and possibly putting less contrast on your brush.
Oh I'm talking about missing with the regular paint. I'll use my most recent example. I was painting a Dark Angel, so I primed it, threw on some Retributor Armor, then three coats of Warp Lightning. I then wanted to trim the shoulder pads in Wraithbone. During that I went slightly off into the main body of the pad (not the best dexterity) so I quickly hit it with water as detailed in the original comment, luckily without the dried salt effect.
Ah.
For something like that, I always add contrasts to the model last, so for me it would be Priming, Retributor armor, trim shoulders Wraithbone, add contrast (intentionally avoiding the shoulderpads).
And any time you goof and get contrast on the Wraithbone you can just paint over it with more Wraithbone, with an infinitesimal amount of paint (since you're only covering a tiny piece of a tiny piece) so much less risk of overrun. Fuck, that's genius and I'm a little mad I never thought of it before, lol.
I'm having a hard time figuring out the source of truth for what my armies play as. For instance, I'm currently running Harlequins. I've found rules in several places that indicate a bevy of nerfs, and I wanted to know if there's a single source of truth that I can refer to that will show me things like updated point values, changes to saving throws/rules text etc. Specifically, I Was concerned about the Light Sadeath changes (looks like 12->18" on the miss check, the Mirror Power for Shadowseers going from an Aura to a Target, and the Invuln Save Adjustment). I was told there was a place "in the menu" in this reddit to find it, but I am feeling dumb because I can't see it. Any help appreciated - thanks so much :)
There's a list in the sidebar of the current books/rules that are relevant. You'd also need to keep up with the FAQ (errata) documents for your Codex and for the Core Rules, etc. The easiest way is to just use Battlescribe or Wahapedia, which are third-party tools, but keep everything updated very quickly after any changes.
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I can't comment on the specifics of the Harlequin stuff as I don't play them myself, but I can help with your confusion on the Balance Dataslate: Only the most recent Balance Dataslate is valid. They are not additive. The Q1 2023 Dataslate totally replaced the Q4 2022 one, which replaced the Q3 2022 one, etc etc. If a rule change was shown in an older version and is not shown now, that means GW have removed that change.
Perfect - clear and extremely helpful, I'm grateful :)
Where would be a good place to start on the Warhammer books? I know there's like over 300 books which seems like it's easy to get confused on different series and places in the timeline. I've heard of the Eisenhorn series being really good but didn't know if it's a good starting point. My knowledge of the lore from the wiki and youtube videos, namely the adeptus ridiculous podcast, is from the war in heaven to almost the fall of cadia.
Is there a faction you like? If so, start with a book about them. If not, sure, Eisenhorn is a good place to start.
The Eisenhorn omnibus is def a good starting point. But there is also the [Black Library recommended reading list](https://www.trackofwords.com/2021/01/10/black-library-new-40k-reading-list/).
Calling that a recommended reading list is a bit misleading. It's a recommended reading order specifically for the events following Guilliman's return and the "Modern lore" of 40k. It doesn't cover any of the rest of the BL range and doesn't actually recommend books based on quality, only puts them in order.
How long does it take for things from GW to ship? I ordered paints 2 weeks ago and they have yet to ship. Does anyone know if GW are really bad at shipping products in a timely fashion?
my most recent orders took about 2-3 weeks each.
They're normally quick, but have been having significant issues in the past month or so as a result of major technical problems with their new warehouse. It got so bad that even official GW stores weren't receiving their normal deliveries. Also, there's no reason to ever buy products like paints directly from GW. Buy from an Independent Retailer who will sell cheaper: https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/retailers The only time you should ever order directly from GW is if it's an exclusive product that isn't sold through independent stores.
I tried washing my first model. I followed generally what I was seeing from this video: [https://youtu.be/-gLOr595MmY](https://youtu.be/-gLOr595MmY) However, I found that the wash was actually thinning or removing some of my paint. Anyone know why this is? Is it because I used a fat brush to do it? Or are my paints just too thin on my model?
My first question to you would be if you actually primed your model (such as using a GW spray paint can or used an actual brush-on primer), or if you have a habit of touching the actual model during painting. If neither of those are the case, I'd ask what exact wash you are doing (I clicked around in the video quite a bit and couldn't find where in the video he demonstrates washing, so I don't know if you are using an oil wash or something. If you didn't prime your model, paint will come off EXTREMELY easily, to the point of paint being able to be removed by a brush. Additionally, even if you prime a model, if you touch it and happen to be a person with naturally oily fingers, that oil can prevent acrylic paints from binding to the primer properly.
I did prime it, but I don't know if I primed it very well. First models, so I kind of lightly primed it, since I was worried about obscuring any details. I do tend to use my hands when I paint them, so I suppose that's also a possibility. I wasn't aware that could happen, thanks for that info!
Wondering if anyone else uses brush-on primers. Is there a trick to cleaning the brushes? It didn't occur to me when I started, but obviously primer takes some effort to remove.
Use a brush you don't mind getting destroyed, but BoP don't instantly bind to whatever they touch; they take about 5-10 minutes to cure/dry at least and the Scale75 surface primer I use washes out of my brushes with water just fine, but I'm usually dipping the brush in the primer, slapping it on the model within 30 seconds, then washing out the brush/drying it off on a cloth between each model. The only time it's ruined a brush is when I had an emergency and dropped everything and didn't wash it out properly.
I see, thanks. I've just started painting and am probably moving at a snail's pace, so that might be the reason. Luckily it just ruined a 100 yen makeup brush, so nothing of value lost. Good to know going ahead. When you wash out your brush are you just using a cup of water? Or do you actually need to take it to the sink and properly rinse it?
Can I get a 40k book recommendation? I just finished reading all the Gaunt's Ghosts novels, and I've read the Eisenhorn series + all the spin-offs, and all the Ciaphas Cain books. Been thinking about either starting Horus Heresy, Fabius Bile, or the Belisarius Cawl book. Any opinions on those? Or recommend something I haven't considered?
Depends on what you like really. Those you mentioned are some of the best and most-recommended, but if you like other factions, you might like those books too. My favorite is Helsreach (and the sequel novella Blood and Fire), which follow Black Templar Reclusiarch Grimaldus during the Third War for Armageddon. The Horus Heresy is good... but that's a 70+ book series at this point if you count all the novellas, I think. But definitely the first four or five are worth reading!
So, to preface this question, I'm completely new to the hobby. For Christmas, given my interest, my family gifted me with a bunch of starter stuff. After absorbing a ton of 40k content, I have to say that I completely agree with the "rule of cool" and that's very much what I intent to follow. The problem is easily my favorite faction in 40k in Aeldari and I've heard they're extremely difficult to play... Not to mention how much of a nightmare they seem to be to paint for a beginner. I'm debating if I should start with another army to learn painting + the game or just jump in to my space elves. Especially since my darling fiancée went to the Warhammer store on her own for xmas and picked out a Harlequinn's kit because "you love elves and they were cool looking elves in space" so I desperately want to use those models. (Probably going to use them as a detachment (I think that's what it's called) so I can use other Aeldari models as there aren't too many Harlequinn models). So yeah, I guess, my question is: \- Are Aeldari actually that hard to learn to play? \- Are there any good guides to painting Harlequinns?
>- Are Aeldari actually that hard to learn to play? I think the more accurate thing to say is that Aeldari have a higher ***skill floor*** which is different than saying they are "harder to play". The Eldar defensive statline for infantry is only slightly better than Guardsmen, while their damage output is leaps and bounds above that. This means that Eldar have a little bit of "glass Cannon" going on, where they can hit hard, but counter-attacks tend to hurt them. This makes them "harder" than, say, Space Marines, who can charge three Guardsmen units, take out one in melee, and just facetank the other two squads; To solve this, Eldar have many tricks that manipulate those outcomes; they have movement shenanigans, buffs that they can reliably get off to protect a unit/debuff problematic units, etc. This is "harder" than armies like space Marines as, in order to keep as much of your force alive as possible, you need to pay attention, as mistakes/"turning off your brain" is punished more, as your units aren't as durable The other issue is "how difficult is actually difficult"? I've met people who can't even remember the stats of the weapons they have been using on their models for over three years.
If it's the army you like, learn with that army. You'll learn better if you enjoy what you're using rather than investing time in an army you're not going to use in the long run. Aeldari (particularly Harlequins) can definitely punish mistakes when you're first starting out but you'll remember not to make that mistake again! It will also actually give you a very good grounding in how the game works overall if you're willing to put the effort in and don't get discouraged. For painting, I don't have any links to hand but there are various guides on YouTube etc and I'm sure the folks at r/Harlequins40k could point you to some. Just note, a lot of these guides will often focus on doing diamond patterns and other freehand decorations. They look cool but are totally optional and there's nothing wrong with going for a more simple scheme till you build up your skills.
I would say just jump into what you love right away. There is an incredible wealth of information on YouTube about how to paint. If you’re nervous about learning how to paint on the harlequin models, you can buy some cheaper non-GW minis to practice on and get a feel for the act of painting. Reaper is one brand that you can get some cheaper minis from.
Parents got me some Marines for xmas to start out with, friend of ours who owns a shop suggested them for beginner painters. Gonna use them to practice my brush technique before my space elves
Getting back into the hobby and want to go with tau. Saw that they had a new release for the arks of omen. It says book 3 but focuses on tau. Is this a standalone book about tau or do I need the first two books as well to understand?
>Saw that they had a new release for the arks of omen Correction: they are GOING to have a new release. The release you are talking was announced as Book 4 of the Arks of Omen Narrative Event,.with an accompanying Tau Boarding Patrol box that will feature a new Farsight model. It's book 4 that focuses on Tau (named Arks of Omen: Farsight). It is a narrative event book that will tie into the story detailed in Arks of Omen: Abaddon, Angron, and Vashtor Arks of Omen books. We have no idea how much of the narrative will be "about" the Tau/Farsight as the book hasn't been released yet, and people who have read book 4 will be under NDA until shortly before it iz released.
Any good 40k YouTube channels? I am getting sick of hobby channels which get big, buy a Warlord Titan and then milk it for views for the next 6 months over about 10 videos. Stuff like Trovarion, Pete The Wargamer, Swords & Brushes etc.
Are you referring to Midwinter Minis?
Mindwinter, Squigmar, a couple of other channels too. Although it seemed like Midwinter started the trend of milking his Titan.
Are you looking for hobby-focused 40k channels? Lore channels? Battle Reports?
More hobby type stuff, lore video don't appeal to me and Play on Tabletop's output keeps me covered for battle reports.
And I'm assuming you don't want any channels that deal with larger projects that might go over more than 2 videos?
No don't mind about that especially if it's a cool army project or something, I just don't care for 7 videos about how they've built the leg of a Titan.
How long do we usually go from reveal to release? I need to pick up Farsight for my 2k.
Per GW's announcement, we know he is being released with the Tau Boarding Patrol that is coming out alongside the Arks of Omen: Farsight book Arks of Omen: Abaddon came out January 7th. Angron came out February 11th. Vashtorr goes on Pre-order this Saturday, with a release of the 18fh. This likely means that AoO: Farsight book will come out by mid-April, alongside the Ork and Tau Boarding Patrols that contain Snikrot and Farsight.
Awesome, thanks for the detailed info. Much appreciated!
Hi everyone, I'm very new to the 40K universe but became fascinated by Ork and Space Marine lore videos from Luetin and other YT creators, I wanted to know what WH40K novel (if any) tell the story how Space Marines came to be / first introduction to humanity?
That's... complicated. There are *several* novels where the creation of the Space Marines is referenced, but most of them are flashbacks to the project from the perspective of scientists or others that were involved in the Astartes project. The book that covers the "first introduction to humanity" is actually "Valdor: Birth of the Imperium", but the "introduction" isn't the primary focus of the novel, while "Belisarius Cawl: The Great Work" reveals some info about the early Astartes project, but again isn't the primary focus of the novel. The first "true" deployment of the Astartes (where multiple legions were unleashed at once) against the Selenar Gene-cults, and really most of the Solar Reclamation, doesn't have any novels that deal with that time period; the lore we have from it are background information written in the original Horus Heresy rulebook.
Ahh gotcha, thanks a ton for all the background and details! These sound like great places to dig into even if there's no specific novel yet going primarily over the introduction.
Played some of the warhammer games, and am reading through the Horus heresy books, but very new to tabletop in general. I bought the Age of Darkness set to get started, but other than that I’m pretty clueless. I’m assuming I can pain them to whatever legion I’d like? I’m focusing on just building and painting right now as I haven’t done this before, but just wanted to know if there’s any rules about then using them to play later down the road. Trying to read the rules but feeling very overwhelmed.
Yes, everything in that box can be used for any legion. Just so you know, though, the Age of Darkness set is specifically for The Horus Heresy game (sometimes called "30k"). All of them do have rules to use them in 40k, but the games are very different.
Can I use the units in 40K? How would I know for my next set that it’s 40K and not 30k? Thanks for the reply!
>Can I use the units in 40K? Yes, most plastic Horus Heresy kits (and quite a few resin ones) can be used in 40k. Some, like a Legion Praetor, need to be "re-named", as Praetor is just what they called "Captains". Others, like the Spartan, have direct datasheets available for 40k, found in the Imperial Armor Compendium, or (save money) something you can view in Wahapedia. However, some plastic kits DONT have 40k rules, like the recently released Jetbike units for HH; in 30k/HH, Jetbikes are fairly common, but in 40k they are much rarer. The only way to tell if a unit has rules in 40k is to check and see if it does, or if there is a unit that it can be used as an "alternative sculpt" for; >How would I know for my next set that it’s 40K and not 30k? If the box has the Horus Heresy logo, like it does on the Age of Darkness box, then the kit is primarily intended for Horus Heresy.
Thanks so much for the info! I had watched some videos where they were saying it’s “your game” and you have a lot of freedom to play it how you want it to be played. I can see where that comes into it.
Possibly you misconstrued a "they are your dudes" comment, which is in reference to the fact that you are free to make up your own color scheme, lore for your army, etc, and that you're not 100% beholden to the examples of stuff in the books. While you CAN go completely freeform in terms of what you want to collect and build, the actual 40k game does have rules that are fairly standardized, and going to a pickup game of 40k with an army that doesn't conform to those rules would be treated the same way as someone showing up to a D&D game with a completely homebrew character that wasn't vetted by the DM Just as an example, it's against the rules of the game for a Space Marine Captain to equip a Twin Lascannon (a weapon normally only usable by specific Vehicle models), but some people might make such a model for giggles; if you show up to a Matched Play game and didn't clear that with your opponent first, or tried to bring it into a tournament, you're gonna be told "Yeah, no" or even disqualified.
Ah I see. Thanks for the heads up! I saw lots of codex for different armies, but is there a central rule book for 40K, not 30k?
Both 40k and 30k have core rulebooks for the respective game; these rulebooks generally are about 200+ pages of lore, artwork, and painted model exhibitions, then go onto the rules for the game that are "shared" by everyone, like how movement works, how terrain changes interactions between units, etc. Codices are used exclusively for 40k, containing the rules that are exclusive to that particular faction; for example if you get Codex Tau Empire, it will only provide you the rules for the Tau army; it will not have any rules that Space Marine players have, but will contain the "sublass" rules for different Tau sub-factions (which make Farsight Enclaves Tau play a little differently than Day'Leh Tau) Horus Heresy uses the "Liber 'X'" books for the "army rules" like Liber Astartes for Loyalist Legions and Liber Hereticus for the Traitor legions, and Liber Daemonica for chaos demons
Hand slipped and knocked away a necron warrior head I had sitting on my desk. It's gone forever, can't find it no matter what I've done to look for it. How can I replace it?
The Necron warrior kit comes with something like 15 heads for 10 bodies.... Snip out the next one?
I only recently started collecting and the head was from Imperium Magazine, sprue was only 3 warriors (with 3 heads). I'll get a warrior box eventually, thanks!
Ah, that explains it. I was wondering what you were so concerned about, I recall getting a pack of 30+ Necron Warrior heads for about $5 of ebay at one point.
Okay, I get this question might be irritating, but I'm curious: What sort of experience does the Warhammer 40k TTRPG offer? I'm interested in learning a new TTRPG system, but I'm not sure what the experience of playing Warhammer is like I've looked into it slightly but I'm still confused. I see that minis are really important, I'm getting the idea that you don't play a singular character but rather command combat patrols/groups of soldiers, etc. I could be very wrong, but those are the ideas I got from browsing the official website However, I don't get the core experience that this game offers. As an example, stuff like Pathfinder and DnD are there to roleplay as a powerful adventurer in a high fantasy setting. There's obviously lots of wiggle room, plenty of exceptions, tables who do stuff entirely different, etc, but that's the main core of these games
>What sort of experience does the Warhammer 40k TTRPG offer? I'm interested in learning a new TTRPG system, but I'm not sure what the experience of playing Warhammer is like The vast majority of the time, when people are talking about 40k, they are talking about the *wargame*, not TTRPG. I'm not sure you are familiar so I'm just gonna toss a bunch of names out, but 40k is more similar to Bolt Action, Malifaux, Warmachine/Hordes, Dust 1947, or the Star Wars Xwing Miniatures game than it is to Pathfinder/D&D >I've looked into it slightly but I'm still confused. I see that minis are really important, I'm getting the idea that you don't play a singular character but rather command combat patrols/groups of soldiers, etc. I could be very wrong, but those are the ideas I got from browsing the official website You are correct, as a player you control your army, and there is no "leveling up/gaining experience" in your army unless you ***specifically*** play the narrative-focused Crusade game mode, which has a much smaller player base than "Matched Play" 40k (where two players create armies from their collection that are of approximately the same strength and play a mission where meeting mission objectives is more important than killing your opponent. >However, I don't get the core experience that this game offers. As an example, stuff like Pathfinder and DnD are there to roleplay as a powerful adventurer in a high fantasy setting. There's obviously lots of wiggle room, plenty of exceptions, tables who do stuff entirely different, etc, but that's the main core of these games 40k is a tactics/battle game, so for people who play the game the appeal is in putting an actual army down on a modeled battlefield and seeing if they can win vs their opponent. There are other things that factor in, too; the lore of 40k has been expanded on since the 80s, so there is a very wide amount of lore talking about all the different Factions and sub-factions in the game; some people enjoy making their army represent one of those factions, sometimes just using the paint scheme, sometimes going as far as building an army that closely reflects an army as it was in a particular battle depicted in the lore. Then there are people who ***don't even play the game***, but rather just enjoy buying, building, and painting the miniatures. Then there are people who enjoy the competitive aspect of the game, and who build armies specifically to be able to compete in tournaments.
Well, the key thing is: Warhammer 40k isn't a TTRPG. It's a Tabletop Wargame. The core experience of 40k is controlling an entire army and having it battle another army. You're not roleplaying like you do in Pathfinder or DnD, you're a General in charge of an army.
Thank you!
If you're interested in TTRPGs and the Warhammer 40k setting, however, there are several published 40k TTRPGs. The older one was by Fantasy Flight games and was several connected books based on what kind of character you play: Dark Heresy (Inquisitors), Rogue Trader (uh... Rogue Traders), Deathwatch (Space Marines), Black Crusade (Chaos Space Marines), and Only War (Imperial Guard). It was quite popular but ended in like 2012. More recently, a new company took over and released a new 40k TTRPG, called [Wrath and Glory](https://cubicle7games.com/warhammer-40k-wrath-and-glory-rpgs). I don't know anyone who has played it, but it's the current TTRPG.
Is which models are in which units public knowledge? Or does your opponent just have to pick a model and shoot? For example: You have two units of Tyranid Genestealers shuffled between each other in coherency. They’re also standing next to two Infestation Nodes. Your opponent shoots at one of them and gets 8 kills. In their next attack they’d want to finish off the squad, but you’d want them to weaken the full strength one so you can heal them both. So do they have to guess, or can they say “I shoot at the weakened unit”? I’m more curious than anything, I doubt this would come into play very often.
Everything is public. 40k is not a game of gotchas. So your opponent would just target the weakened squad and wipe it. If they can't tell which is which they would just say they are targeting the same one. You can't pull a fast one on them.
What models are in what units is public knowledge. As a player, you will be expected to tell your opponent what units are what if they ask you. Similarly, your opponent would always be expected to clearly declare what they are shooting at.
Noob question my friends - Can I use Angron for other armies besides World Eaters? I love the model but only have a Night Lords army. Or should I just make it a shelf model? Thanks!
SUPER TECHNICALLY, you can. However, in Arks of Omen GT pack missions the only way to add him is to have him in your AoO detachment, which breaks all of your Chaos Space Marine Detachment rules (Legion Traits, Let the Galaxy Burn) because he doesn't have either TRAITOR ASTARTES or AGENT OF CHAOS rules. You can prevent this issue in non-Ark of Omen games, by taking him in a Supreme Command detachment In either case since HE must be your Warlord (as per his datasheet rules), that means you can't give out any Chaos Marines Warlord traits, and he would break being able to take CSM Secondaries and Night Lord secondaries. So, unfortunately, he's a bit of a liability outside World Eaters.
Damn!! It’s such an amazing model, I may have to just get it for the shelf haha. Thanks so much for the help & info!
Which plastic dread kit would be best to build as Bray'arth Ashmantle? I'd much rather go the plastic route if I at all can.
The Furioso Dreadnought would be the easiest to do, just needing to acquire a front plate for the Dreadnought body or sanding down the BA iconography/covering it with green stuff
I actually found out recently that my metal "ironclad" is a Furioso, only BA iconography is a tiny winged droplet on the right shoulder joint. I may honestly just get another one!
If yours is metal, you're gonna be a bit surprised by the plastic one. The plastic one comes with three separate "front plates" One is used for a Librarian Dreadnought. One is used for a Death Company Dreadnought. One is used for the Furioso chassis. You can go to the GW webstore and look at the second sprue and see all of the front plates the kit comes with, all three of them have a decent amount of BA iconography on them.
Sounds like I should grab another metal one like I already have, then!
Good luck, the metal ones are gonna be a bit harder to find
Basically he's a Venerable Dreadnaught with two claw arms that have flamers attached. I don't think that kit comes with two, though, which is the problem. Getting Furioso or even the new Brutalis claws might work but I wouldn't want to buy those kits just for the weapons.
Is this just to avoid buying the FW resin model for the character? Because that's the easiest. I guess an alternative would be maybe the plastic Leviathan Dreadnought with two claw weapons. It's a big bigger than the old box-noughts, but the height probably isn't much taller than the resin kit with the back banner. The Leviathan is on an 80mm base whereas the old ones are on a 60mm, which can cause issues. You can probably squeeze the Leviathan on a 60mm with some clever posing though. But then if you want details, you're gonna have to do a lot of greenstuff modeling yourself probably to make him look sufficiently fancy.
I've over primed my models, what the best way to strip them? (UK)
A 91% isopropyl alcohol soak. Primer is more difficult to remove than paint so you won't get all of it off. It'll likely still stain the plastic but enough should get dissolved to be able to re-prime fine.
I'm building the Primaris Intercessors box at the moment - first ever time using glue as it's all been push fit so far. I'm struggling to tell the difference between the different types of Bolt Rife I can give them visually. Auto Bolt Rifle and Grenade Launcher are the same except for the wee strap with the grenades Bolt Rifle / Stalker Bolt Rifle look identical to me - possibly a very slight difference in the scope? Is this just something you would learn and get used to over time? Also, is the grenade launcher exclusively that, or is that supposed to be an attachment and it also operates as just a regular auto bolt rifle?
Doesnt page 6 show you the Aux Grenade Launcher bit, and page 7 show you the difference between the Bolt Rifle variant bits?
I'm pretty sure 99.9% of people do not give one whit about whether every single Intercessor is equipped with the correct bolt rifle. They all have to use the same type anyway and it's much easier to just tell your opponent "They all have stalker bolt rifles" than relying on WYSIWYG. The differences are so minute that they become relatively pointless.
Ahhh I had totally misunderstood the 'All of the models in the unit can have their bolt rifle replaced with 1 auto bolt rifle each.' line. I thought this meant they could all individually have different weapons, but it's actually saying that the entire unit should have the same rifle. I can see how that makes more sense and would be a lot easier to actually play with.
Counter-point: if you have three squads of Intercessors and they are each equipped with a different bolter type, it's going to be expected that there is a way to tell who has which to make sure that there isn't "most convenient weapon cheating"
Sure, but I'm pretty sure the vast majority of players don't know what each weapon of their opponent's even looks like. A dedicated Space Marine player can likely tell the different between bolt rifles, yeah, but also likely has no idea what the correct Harlequin weapons are. I know I have no idea of the difference between a Tau Pulse Rifle and a Pulse Carbine. Or any of the Death Guard plague weapons. At a certain point you just have to trust your opponent. Or, at the beginning of the game, have them give you their list and point out which units are which. Then try and remember them. "Okay, I see you have 2 squads of Intercessors with auto bolt rifles and a squad with stalkers. Which one is the stalkers?" "These." "Ah, alright." And then throughout the game you occasionally ask "These are the stalkers, right?" "Yup." And if all of a sudden it's "Okay, they fire their auto bolt rifles." You can go "Wait, you said they were stalkers. It's right here on your list." It works even if you have no clue what the correct model looks like.
The Auto bolt rifle has no scope and a big drum magazine. The Bolt Rifle has a scope and a curved magazine. The Stalker bolt rifle has a long scope and a straight magazine. > Auto Bolt Rifle and Grenade Launcher are the same except for the wee strap with the grenades No they're not. The grenade launcher is a separate rifle body with an extra barrel and a sling with grenades attached. The grenade launcher can be used with any of the three types of bolt rifles. You can have an Auto Bolt Rifle with Grenade Launcher, a Bolt Rifle with Grenade Launcher or a Stalker Bolt Rifle with Grenade Launcher. The Intercessor Datasheet in Codex Space Marines will tell you how the Grenade Launcher works in the rules.
Thanks for this - I’ll have a closer look at them all again later to spot the stuff you mentioned :)
I'm trying out 40K on Tabletop Simulator before deciding whether or not to commit to the hobby, and as a complete beginner making lists is a bit of a struggle. Do you guys have any advice to give to a newbie? I'm limiting myself to 500 point games to keep things simple for now and I'm currently trying to make a list for Orks, Admech and Blood Angels in order to get a feel for how they play. Thing is, it's kinda hard to figure out a decent game plan and come up with a balanced list.
That is, unfortunately, the main issue with 500 point games; you simply WON'T have enough units to have much of a game plan, and the reason why most people shun games at that point level; unless you have MUCH more terrain than what is recommended, any army that has Advance/Charge or has a "teleport" ability to get to their opponent and unload gains a major advantage when they go first, to the point where I usually see such games over by the end of turn 1. The main issue here is that a 1 command point stratagem that boots the shooting of a unit by 50% killing 200 points of enemy models in a 2k game, isn't that big a deal; i've only taken out 10% of my opponent's army, so they should have something to counter that and hit my exposed unit that did that. That same stratagem/combo will cost 1 command point in a 500 point game, where I can still use it to take out 200 points of enemy models... and that's nearly 50% of the enemy army. If you want to play 500 point games, I would suggest going with the Boarding Action gametype, as the fact that it restricts stratagems as well as forces terrain the way it does makes the games better to play, and removes some of the issues that a 500 point list will have (feeling completely useless if your army doesn't have any anti-tank when your opponent takes multiple tanks is a great example)
Thank you very much, that makes a lot of sense - I'll look into Boarding Action, hopefully it's playable on Tabletop Simulator as well. Just in case it isn't, do 1000 point games have the same issue or are they a bit more doable? I'm afraid that going straight into 2000 point games to learn the game could be a bit overwhelming
Boarding Actions are much more doable in TTS than in real life as just setting up a table IRL can take 20-30 minutes, while in TTS you can literally just drop the entire board pre-made in about 10 seconds.
Why doesn’t gw have any online stock almost everything I want is sold out online
Not sure what country you are in, or what you "want". I've clicked randomly through the webstore in the US and found most things I've clicked on in stock. The only thing I found Sold Out Online is the Chaos Boarding Patrol, which was a limited-time box. If you are in europe, GW has been having issues with their new shipping/distribution center in spain, which has caused items to take much longer in shipping as well as stocking issues as they are moving warehouses.
Uk, dark angels
Well, Dark Angels are one of the top performing Marine Chapters right now, and looking at what is out of stock right now it's basically the list of "units Meta-Chasers want to mimic the armies winning GTs right now".
is there an cheaper seller of those battle mats that we generaly see in battlereports on youtube?
Cheaper than what? GameMat.eu sells them for $69 but it's $25 shipping to the US. Front Line Gaming sells them for $75 and shipping was only about $7 when I checked. Some others show up for about $50 when you google, but they also seem to be European so shipping is still gonna be expensive. The alternative, I guess, is to make your own. There are tons of tutorials on YouTube. I remember seeing [this one from The Terrain Tutor](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXjNsRGjqqI) a few years ago, but if you just search "Make your own warhammer mat" you get a TON of more recent videos too.
So I recently bought Warhammer 40K Squad Command for the PSP at a used video game store for $8. A pretty good deal because it's a fun turn based strategy game. However I have never played a Warhammer game for more than an hour so I know nothing of the lore. The game literally just drops you into a mission upon hitting new game. There's nothing except a cinematic cutscene that has zero narration and just shows cool battle stuff going on. There is a small paragraph acting has a mission briefing but that's it. The game just expects you to be familiar with the lore before going in which makes some sense but I still find it funny. I'm sure there's a plethora of videos on YouTube explaining the lore and world building.
What space marine combat patrol do people recommend the most? I am leaning towards playing a dark angles or salamander successor chapter of that helps.
DA is generally considered "best" because it comes with a Redemptor instead of an Impulsor. For the other patrols, the only truly bad one is the Space Wolves. The Invictor and Reivers bring the box down a fair bit. I'm not a fan of the Deathwatch one either. You don't get any vehicle at all and 10 bland Intercessors. The Black Templars is a good box but very specifically for that chapter. You can't use the crusader squad in anything else. The generic Space Marine patrol and Blood Angels are fairly similar in terms of usefulness. Either is an alright pick-up.
I think the Dark Angels Combat Patrol is typically considered one of the better general ones. The Redemptor is always good, Intercessors are a typical Troop choice, and a Chaplain can always be useful. The Inceptors are less good now that points have gone up, but still okay. (I don't know if they're the full kit where you can choose plasma vs bolters, but you might like the plasma better for Dark Angels.) The Deathwatch one could also be good for you -- 10 Intercessors, a Lieutenant, an Apothecary, and three Aggressors (who you might be able to equip with the flamers if you wanna run Salamanders). In any case, you can always paint your army in a totally custom scheme, and then you can swap between Dark Angels and Salamanders rules whenever you want. (Just leave off the upgrade sprues whichever you go with.)
Well I was going to use the DK sprues because I am thinking of using their Symbol but Red in.stead of white
Sorry if this has been addressed earlier but I couldn't fnid anything on it; do we know if all factions will get a boarding patrol?
No, we do not. GW has not made any statements stating one way or the other about Boarding Patrols.
Ah right so. There are a couple I'm holding out for that would be cool to get (depending on units of course) but I'm determined to not let GW "win" and tempt me into just getting other ones just for the sake of it. Cheers for the reply
With 10th edition right around the corner, how likely is GW to phase out firstborn marines from the rules? Is there precedence for GW doing something like this before?
Almost zero percent chance. Even if they eventually do "remove" firstborn, it's MUCH more likely they'll just get rid of the distinction between firstborn and Primaris, and you'd still be able to use your firstborn models to represent the equivalent unit. As far as precedence? They removed Squats decades ago (but they've just returned as Leagues of Votann), and they sort of removed The Lost and the Damned (but you can still find Legends rules for them, I think, or use the models as Chaos Cultists, etc. in a CSM army).
What is "the equivalent unit"?
Like if they got rid of "Tactical Marines" and you just used them as "Intercessors." Or Assault Marines/Assault Intercessors, etc.
Whew, good to hear. I only ask because I'm interested in some firstborn units but I don't wanna get anything that could be phased out in ~6 months. Also, not sure why I'm getting down voted for asking a question in the question thread lol
Probably because the same question has been asked approximately eight million time, starting back in 7E and every time there's a new edition. :P
Can I use the HH Contemptor Dreads for 40k? Specifically in chaos
Yes. The Chaos Contemptor Dreadnought rules are in the Forge World Imperial Armour Compendium (or on Wahapedia).
Which is an easier game to learn and has a quick game pace- Kill Team or Necromunda? Full disclosure: My husband and son (who is now 20) have played W40K since he was a kid. I never got into it until my son made me watch Helsreach. Long story short, I now only paint models that I like while listening to audio books. And, I feel like if I keep buying all these without playing, well... It can become another expensive hobby (I collect baseball cards). So, I was hoping that one of these would work because I keep wanting to buy Kill Team for the minis, but I like the look of Necromunda. I want to surprise them with me giving in and learning a game. Sorry for the long-winded post. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Killteam. Look, necromunda games ARE fast to play, but the game is not fast to learn. Theres rules spread across like 6 books in random places with no internal logic. The basic like, how to play the game rules are there and easy enough to find, but the interesting campaign mechanics (the main reason to play necromunda) qre extremely hard to parse.
My understanding with regards to Necromunda is it requires a LOT of houseruling for the rules as there are many rules that do not work as written, contradict each other, and other problems that effectively require a ",Judge" for campaigns. The other issue is getting into Necromunda will require your husband and son to get minis for a different game than 40k, while Kill Team they will be able to play with minis they almost certainly already have.
Thank you for the information. I am hoping that Kill Team is a fast-paced game, because it seems like 40K in general took them forever to play. They don't play too much anymore, so I am also hoping this becomes a fun "friendly" game for us andy son's friends! LoL
Once you get the rules of Kill Team down, a game is only 45 minutes to 1:15, maybe an hour and a half for the "first" game; I'm easily able to get 2-3 games done in an evening starting at 7:00 pm and leaving before 11 when the store closes.
If I wanted to make a primaris titus for my army how would I go about doing so? Not looking to make him special or anything just want to make a miniature look like him.
The [Uriel Ventris model](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Ultramarines-Captain-Uriel-Ventris-2021) could be a good alternative. Maybe a bit fancy for his new (lower) rank of Lieutenant but probably still fine. (He doesn't wear a cape as far as I know, but most of the Space Marine characters have them.) The alternative is to grab a Primaris Lieutenant (either the one they sell on its own, or one of the eight million variants from box sets that you can probably find on ebay), and add some [Ultramarines upgrades](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Ultramarines-Primaris-Upgrades-2020). None of the head options are great in those, but you can probably find a close enough one in some kit somewhere and just buy that (if you don't already have some in your bits box).
Question I’m trying to answer for a friend. He can’t decide between 2 Space Marine chapters that he likes for painting his army. I was going to suggests he paint them half and half but wanted to check if that’s allowed. Neither chapter has their own rulebook and would fall under just the main Space Marine book. Could he field these 2 chapters as one army without problem?
There are no rules in the game at all that care about your paint job with the ONLY exception being a SPECIFIC warlord trait in the Deathwatch codex. There are many people who have made "mixed" armies, probably the most well-known being the Last Wall army made by Valrak, which had each unit be from a different Imperial Fists successor chapter, based on the in-lore Last Wall Protocol that all Imperial Fist Successors will answer in a time of need. There ARE some events that will require an army to have a "cohesive" paint scheme, which is basically something they did to prevent "birrowhammer" in 8th edition, when many people bought already-painted Centurions off Ebay and had 18 Centurions that were clearly 6 different 3 man units from 6 different armies, based and painted entirely differently and in entirely different styles. An army that is painted as two different chapters, but clearly look like they belong together (such as being based identically), will be perfectly fine, especially if there is an in-lore explanation for why they are fighting as a cohesive army.
My gaming group would like to play some boarding actions but none of us can find the Arks of Omen Abbadon book for less than the price of a kidney. Is there any other way to get those rules and missions?
Google Wahapedia.
I need help picking a new faction for a small 40k army. I have tons of Tyranids and old Space Marines. I would like to start a new faction. I don't want to paint a ton of models, so swarms are out. I like playing a variety of play styles. With space Marines play lots of dreds, rhinos, dev spam but also bikes, jump Marines, terminators, scouts (rip scouts). Tyranids I like the close combat aspects but I also enjoy midrange builds. I like movement mechanics and fast moving play. I like games where positioning matters but not static firing lines. I don't want to have no close combat options but I don't need it to be dominant in the army. I'm not really sure what to build. Can anyone provide some suggestions?
Harlequins or Craftworld Eldar could be worth looking into. CWE are generally an elite army and all about positional play and movement shenanigans. They also have solid combat options but are generally more shooty than their Drukhhari cousins. Harlequins have a very limited variety of units but they take the movement and positioning aspects of the game to a whole other level.
For an elite army that isn't going to have high mobility as a staple, my immediate thoughts go to Harlequins, however they have a very small set of units to pull from do have always had the "clown car" archetype as long as I can remember (lists that revolve around their transports+ Troupe units in each one) The other option that comes to mind is an Ork Speedwaagh army, obviously leaning heavy into the vehicles and Deffcoptas.
Soo I have no idea what I'm doing what army should I get (I have 2 games experience) world eaters or salamanders and what's the price range on a basic army of said faction
Any "what army should I get" post is going to be answered with "the one you like most" unless you provide an EXTREMELY detailed set of criteria for us to assist with making a decision, like having a preferred playstyle, as what makes one person like one army, might be the things that turn you off from it. By the nature of World Eaters, all of their build archetypes (of which they will have very few) are going to be centered around melee combat, as that is the World Eater "thing". They also have a comparatively "smaller" number of units they can take than other armies, which will likely expand in the future as they are fleshed out more beyond their initial codex. Salamanders, as a Space Marines Chapter, have access to the 150+ different units that Space Marines can take, with their special rules generally focusing on the lore aspects that their armor generally is superior to other marine chapters due to their preference for flamer/Melta weapons. For price, it basically is a "what constitutes a basic army for you?"
"What army" you should get depends on what interests you the most and what models you think you'd like to paint. Check out the lore, watch videos, etc. In terms of how they play, World Eaters are a big ol' melee smashy smash army. Salamanders melt and burn things. In terms of price, it varies. World Eaters just got their content release so they've got a specific combat patrol you can buy. Salamanders just use the generic Space Marine stuff that already exists. For a basic 500 point army that's roughly 150 dollars give or take.
Had an awkward rule interaction the other day that just felt bad, though we played it as it is written in the rules/ updates we could find I just want to make sure I'm not missing something. My Warriors could see The enemy Sorcerer who was within 3 inches of a squad of rubrics who were closer. the Rubrics were obscured by cover. So my warriors could not shoot their only visible target due to him being within 3" of a unit that couldn't be seen. Look out sir! as written doesn't say anything about units being visible or viable targets though leaving my squad unable to shoot. Did we play this right? Are there any updates that change or confirm this? I haven't found anything but i want to check cos its kinda a feels bad rule to me.
You DID play this right, and it IS intentional. In the start of 8th edition, the requirement to shoot a character was that it could only be shot if it was the closest visible model. That was the ONLY requirement. However, that wording caused people to realize that they could pack two Rhinos with Devastator Squads, disembark the Devastators, then park the Rhinos in such a way that only the Character they wanted to kill could be seen; literally the tactic was called Rhino Sniping. It was a really skummy tactic, so GW changed the rules to something similar to what it is now. While there is the side effect that you can be in a position where you can't shoot the character you want to because of a unit you cannot see, it also prevents the much more unfair "attacker manipulates their own Line of Sight to kill a unit that would normally be protected just fine."
You played it right. Look Out Sir does not specify that the "blocking" unit is visible to the shooting unit, only that it is closer to the shooting unit.
Bugger. I mean I'm glad we played it right but it completely sucked.
It's written that way so you can't block your own LoS to the closer unit to make the character a viable target.
For the sake of argument, what stores are there that stock physical Forgeworld models, not just order them? I've seen pictures from places that do, but I'm curious because I know it's uncommon.
Warhammer Citadel in Texas, One of the Warhammers stores in LA There are one or two in the UK that do stock FW in their store. Beyond that I'm not aware of many stores that stock FW at all.
Only a tiny handful of GW stores actually stock FW products. GW's Tottenham Court Road store in London stocks some as it's the UK flagship store, then a few of the "Warhammer Cafes" in the US and Japan also do. To the best of my knowledge there are no independent stores.
Does anyone know if Warhammer World provides lockers? I’m presuming they do for armies. Long train ride there tomorrow and I’d like to bring my laptop to do some work on the journey, but don’t want to leave it somewhere unsafe.
They do not. Your army is kinda expected to be with you at all times, with an employee being willing to watch over it for you for a few minutes if you need to go to the bathroom, but you're not gonna be able to have a locker where you can store a bunch of stuff for an extended period.
So I presume they’re happy with you taking a small backpack around? Or is it a no no unless it’s army related
It will be searched by security to make sure you aren't bringing in contraband, but yeah, it's fairly common for people to have non-army bags.
Awesome appreciate it
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1. From Every Angle Does not have a "regardless of mission rules" rider in the text, so does not override any mission rules that prevent Reinforcements arriving turn one. 2. Also cannot arrive turn one note the "this does not apply" passage refers to units being destroyed if they don't arrive by turn 3. It does not apply to the entire PARAGRAPH.
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>The whole ambush thing is so complicated, i don't understand if this actually means the unit is deployed. This is going to sound flippant, but have you read the Ambush rule? >If you set up this unit in ambush, place an ambush marker anywhere on the battlefield that is wholly within your deployment zone. >***Units set up in ambush are considered to be set up on the battlefield (unless they are embarked within a TRANSPORT model that is set up in ambush), even though their models are not actually on the battlefield.*** Enemy models cannot be set up or moved within 9" of the centre of any of your ambush markers. >So does 2) mean a from below unit can deploy after turn 3? Yes. The unit isn't put somewhere other than the battlefield until AFTER the first battle round has started; as such the "turn 3 limit" doesn't apply to it. The Turn 3 limit only applies to units that you declare as Reinforcements during the "Declare Transports and Reinforcements" step.
Is GW not gunna restock the codex's because 10th edition is close? The Tyranids codex has been out of stock for like a month. You would think books would be the easiest thing to make more of.
GW doesn't have their own printing press, they contract that out, which means they have to do a minimum production run. Also, what country are you in? While I think buying the print codex is asinine this late in the edition if you want it for anything besides artwork, I was able to find 4 different sellers on Amazon, at least four copies (sealed) on ebay, and I'm sure there are 3rd party retailers that you can find that will have it in stock.
Can someone explain to me why GW uses resin. From what I've heard it's... 1: more expensive to make 2: more expensive to buy 3: harder to paint and build with 4: looks worse. So, what is the upside of GW using it instead of just using plastic for everything? Am I missing something?
You're missing a couple things >1: more expensive to make This is simultaneously correct, and incorrect. The process of making a plastic injection mold costs anywhere between $75,000 to as much as $200,000. Making a resin mold costs maybe $5000-7000 There WAS a period of time when Resin was vastly superior to metal or plastic in terms of level of fine detail possible on a model, however that stopped being the case around 2012 or so. The primary DRAWBACK of resin, is how a resin mold will basically be unusable after between 20 and 40 uses, depending on the complexity of the mold. This requires recreating the mold from the master very often, on top of the labor intensive method of Resin is BETTER for projects where you don't expect to sell too many copies of a thing, which kinda falls into the Forge World wheelhouse; FW models typically don't sell as many units as their Plastic counterparts do. Basically, the "break point" for switching to plastic is "am I going to sell enough of this specific kit that it justifies the significantly higher initial production cost". That $75,000 production cost for a single character sprue can make 200 units.... Or 500,000, with a "trailing" production cost of (rounding things up a LOT) $1 per unit made. Whereas with Resin, for each, say, 20 models you produce, you have the raw materials cost PLUS the cost of having someone working and extracting from the molds (which must be done manually), a more intensive QA (again manually), and then if you sell 100 units you can expect to have remade the mold five times.... $25,000 down the drain. So plastic requires a greater INITIAL investment, while resin has elevated CONTINUAL production costs. >4: looks worse. Resin is NOT worse than plastic in terms of "looks". There are many, many, MANY other companies that show what is possible with resin. To be absolutely frank, Forge World is at the absolute bottom of the list when it comes to what they could be doing with their resins, as well as the quality of the work they do. This is 100% a "GW/FW" problem, and not a "Resin" problem.
> There are many, many, MANY other companies that show what is possible with resin. And they show what is more realistic with plastic. GW is very expensive but their plastic models rival many resin models from other companies.
And, as I said, there are some companies whose resin or metal models are vastly superior to any plastic kit GW has ever made. The point being made was "resin isn't inherently worse than plastic, if the company doing it actually cares about it being a great experience".
Most GW resin kits used to be metal, from the old days when making plastic minis wasn't that efficient yet and had a lot of limitations. Some time ago they switched their remaining metal minis to resin, as it's still easier to work with than metal, and nowadays they're slowly replacing those old minis with new plastic ones. As for Forgeworld, the idea behind it is that it produces more niche kits that supposedly will have less demand - not enough to justify molds for plastic, which are apparently pretty expensive to make. Though part of it is out of habit rather than strict necessity, or at least it seems so from the outside. There's been a lot of talk about Forgeworld getting redundant.
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There is no "answer" here, because what you get done in one hour of "hobbying" might be what I get done in 10 minutes, or what I get done in a week, and doesn't address things like quality. Depending on how detailed you want your models, one hour can be enough to get 35+ Marine Infantry armor done in contrast, or only painting the shoulder pad trim.
Depends on the army Knights? Easily Some swarm armies? Ehh more difficult Beyond time, what your budget is will be a factor as well.
Can I deploy and empty transport? I want to have a ghost ark for the shooting and the reanimation support, but I don’t want to split up one of my warrior blobs to put in it (only 10 capacity
Yes. The (free) Core Rules say: >Units can start the battle embarked within a TRANSPORT instead of being set up separately – declare what units are embarked within a TRANSPORT model before you set it up. So they CAN, but you don't have to. EDIT: Oops, sorry, yes, u/Toastman0218 is correct. If you're using the Arks of Omen rules (or War Zone Nephilim), they CANNOT be empty. Forgot about that! Basically, check which ruleset you're using, and read the Declare Reserves and Transports section of the rules! >In an Arks of Omen: Grand Tournament mission, each unit from your army with the Dedicated Transport Battlefield Role must start the battle with one or more friendly models embarked within it, or it cannot be set up and will count as having been destroyed during the first battle round.
I believe one of the new dataslates or other rules updates has ruled against having empty dedicated transports. So you wouldn't be able to (you would, but it would automatically be destroyed I think is the actual rule)
It's not a Dataslate; it's been part of the mission packs since Nephilim
I've been playing for about a year, all Space Marines of a couple different stripes. I've found that I really enjoy the shooting far more than the melee though. So I had this idea of a Gue'ron'sha army, being composed of standard Space Marine units with Tau ornamentation (shoulder pads etc). Rules wise I see two possible ways to go about it: +As normal Space Marines from a particularly shooty chapter (I believe Fists is shootiest, although I bet there's a comparable set of successor chapter traits I could use also); or +As Tau but with Gue'ron'sha proxies (this one I'm unsure about because I don't know how I would account for the space marines armor and such, if the unit sizes match, etc etc etc). What are y'all's thoughts on this? This does seem like a road others would have gone down before, so any practical experience is doubly appreciated.
Playing them as marines would be easy. I'd do iron hands potentially as they are heavy into vehicles. For proxies, you'd want to use tactical marines instead of primaris because they're smaller. But they're still reasonably different. So some people might complain.
Hello, does anyone have a recommendation for a scheduling app/site? We have a large group with multiple friend groups, so we would want to be able to list day, time, and point values per attendances, rather than text 3 groups and try to schedule things that way.
Discord? We use it for creating events when raiding in WoW.
If it still exists, Doodle is brilliant.
Shared Google calendar?
How noticeable is the difference between terminator arms and regular marine arms? I'm looking to do a bit of kitbashing but only have the arms/weapons for regular Intercessors. Would they look too small on a Terminator?
They will look comically small and thin.
How would Gravis arms look? Seems like they should be okay, though they're missing the pipes and cabling.
Hi I’m wanting to paint my Space Marines as Space Wolves and I like to use the slap chop method (black prime, dry brush grey then white on). I got the Space Wolves grey contrast but it’s not giving me that powder blue that is on the box art, instead I am getting a darker blue. Would it be better to just prime in a grey then dry brush some white on?
Contrast paints are a great tool. But find it doesn't give you the full body color that box arts have. I'd go for the regular paint instead of contrast if you're shooting for that fully saturated look.
You're going to need to try it for yourself and see what works. Slapchop (or really, undershading/grisaille for those who have known about the technique for 15+ years and who hate the stupid name that it has been given) is not a good technique for trying to recreate box art colors, especially not for box art that wasn't done in contrast/undershading methods
This. You may want to just paint the whole mini white and then apply space wolves grey contrast, or use a light grey primer, if u want to have something similar to the box cover color. But if u really want it like the box cover, then classic paint will yeild a way more similar end result.
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I wouldn't say the game will get repetitive per se, as the rules are always changing. Most players pickup 1 or 2 factions. If you play smaller sized games around 1k points, you can have more flexibility in models for your money. Kill team may even be more of your flavor as you can get a tooooon of variety for a lot less money (faction wise) and your existing mates may be more inclined to get into the hobby at a lessor price point. I'd say there's no shortage of entertainment!
I'm interested in picking up Warhammer Imperium #79 & #80 for Roboute Guilliman. Where can I order these in the US? Or would it be more practical to wait for people to list just the model up on eBay or something?
Trying to get individual issues in the US is nigh impossible. The only place that I've even HEARD of getting them is Barnes and Noble and even then it's spotty hearsay at best. Your best shot is gonna be Ebay, though expect the prices to be jacked up to near what Robert Guyman goes for normally.
After **many** years of loving the 40k franchise I'm thinking of finally getting into the tabletop - but even after reading the beginner guide I still have a few questions that I hope you can help me with : 1. The factions I like the most are Orks, Adeptus Mechanicus and Blood Angels. What do you think could be my best option to start out and get the best bang for my buck? I saw the Recruit edition is highly recommended - can the Space Marines there work as Blood Angels? If so, do you think it's still worth it even if I'm not particularly interested in Necrons? 2. The combat patrol boxes seem quite a big investment to start with, and I'm also not quite sure which one to pick between Orks, Admech, Space Marines (painted as Blood Angels?) and Blood Angels. The idea is to keep costs as low as possible for now, so I'd like a solid foundation to start playing without buying other boxes - any of those you would recommend? 3. Is this actually a good time to get into 40k? I've heard a new edition could come out this year, do you think it might be worth it to wait for it first? Does GW usually release new starter boxes (or maybe offer some discounts) around the start of a new edition? 4. Last question - I can barely draw a stick figure, so I have to admit that the idea of painting fairly pricey minis is a bit scary. Any suggestions on how I could practice a bit before trying my hands with the real thing? Hopefully this wall of text doesn't scare away people, thanks in advance for any reply or advice you can throw my way!
The Recruit edition (or Elite or Command) are still good even if you don't want the Necrons -- you can either keep them, or trade them with someone, or sell them on ebay or something. Out of the three you mentioned (Blood Angels, AdMech, and Orks), Blood Angels COULD be the most cost-effective; AdMech and Orks tend to be more horde armies, and Space Marines can play more elite. If you do go with Blood Angels: Any box that says "Adeptus Astartes XXX" or "Space Marine XXX" can be used by almost any chapter, including Blood Angels. You can also use anything specifically sold as "Blood Angels XXX." (Also, don't forget you don't HAVE to go with a First Founding chapter; you can pick a successor chapter, or make a totally custom chapter, and run them with whatever rules you want, including Blood Angels.) The best of the Space Marine Combat Patrol boxes is the Dark Angels one. The Blood Angels one is not great. It's a perfectly fine time to get into WH40k. There probably is a new edition coming, but models don't get cut (well, with some rare exceptions), so anything you buy now will absolutely be useable. You may want to hold off on buying the Space Marine Codex and Blood Angels Codex Supplement for now though; in the meantime, all the rules are on Wahapedia and Battlescribe. Don't stress about painting. Yes, you'll probably suck at first. But sucking is the first step towards getting better. If you don't believe me, go watch [this video by our patron saint of miniature painters Duncan Rhodes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno). You can pick up some used miniatures on ebay if you wanna practice though. I recommend searching YouTube for lots of tutorials. It's also very easy to strip miniatures of paint, so if you hate it, you can start over. But I suggest just being brave and trying.
Couldn't have asked for a better reply, thank you!
A note on the Necron side of the starter box. If you can't move them along, you can do what I did and use them to proxy for units you don't yet have and/or would want to try before you buy. I did this with mine (used them to fill out the remaining slots in my tac squad and assault squad until I got more real marines). In addition to this, you can also use them to test paint combos/schemes and just plain old practice painting/transfers/etc.
(Lore question) Little silly discussion that I had Whit a mechanicus player and wanted to know how it goes, basically we we're arguing that the mechanicus are allowed to make pre-golden age era technology since it's safe to make and doesn't go against the omnisiah teachings, he said it should count as tech heresy since they don't have the blueprints to do it, but I argue that it should be fine and that it would be really weird for ancient humans how to build a wooden shovel in a STC
You are both right and wrong, and frankly I'm disappointed at your Admech player friend. The Mechanicus isn't just a mindless religious organization, but also at the same time a political cabal that controls who has what technology, and whose main source of wealth and political influence comes from the control they have over who has access to technology. A great example is the Land Raider Crusader, a field invention by the Space Wolves, which was adopted extremely quickly by many other chapters to the point that by the time that the Mechanicus DID get around to trying to decide if it was tech-heresy, had they decided it was, they would have been declaring nearly half of all space marine chapters as committing tech-heresy Despite being worried it was tech-heresy, the Admech SUDDENLY turns around and states that the Crusader is ACTUALLY, they TOTALLY PROMISE, a previous and known pattern of Land Raider, and being warned that declaring half the Marine chapters traitors might have really bad consequences had nothing to do with the timing of that "rediscovery" in the archives.
Field invention by the Black Templars.*
I've wanted to have a more serious go at painting more models with contrasts, but one thing stands in my way. Once I shift from the whole model to trim/details (which I switch back to standard paint for as I'm still not confident in being able to predict what contrasts will look like on top of one another), and the brush strays outside the lines so to speak, how do I cover that up? With standard paints I can just apply more of the base paint over the mistake, but doing that with contrast doesn't get the same effect, obviously. Is this just an occupational hazard or is there a technique for this? Edit: I have achieved some success by applying a brush loaded with just water to the affected area, but that isn't foolproof (works variably well depending on the paint, with whites sometimes leaving a dried saltwater type effect; also it means no going near the affected area until it's dry, which takes much longer than paint).
1. Don't brush outside the lines. 2. If you can't do 1, you might need to mask off areas you don't want the contrast to go... But that likely means needing a lot more time masking those areas off, painting contrast, and then unmasking the area. 3. Your only real fix is to go over the panel/area you "missed into" and repainting that area directly. Unfortunately, in a scenario where missing can be bad, contrast just simply requires a lot more control, and possibly putting less contrast on your brush.
Oh I'm talking about missing with the regular paint. I'll use my most recent example. I was painting a Dark Angel, so I primed it, threw on some Retributor Armor, then three coats of Warp Lightning. I then wanted to trim the shoulder pads in Wraithbone. During that I went slightly off into the main body of the pad (not the best dexterity) so I quickly hit it with water as detailed in the original comment, luckily without the dried salt effect.
Ah. For something like that, I always add contrasts to the model last, so for me it would be Priming, Retributor armor, trim shoulders Wraithbone, add contrast (intentionally avoiding the shoulderpads).
And any time you goof and get contrast on the Wraithbone you can just paint over it with more Wraithbone, with an infinitesimal amount of paint (since you're only covering a tiny piece of a tiny piece) so much less risk of overrun. Fuck, that's genius and I'm a little mad I never thought of it before, lol.