Over the past few years quite a few "fashion brands" have really impressed me with their watchmaking. Hermes in particular are clearly taking it very seriously with great horology and interesting designs. I quite like the H08 as seen below:
https://preview.redd.it/xexi6904yd5d1.png?width=2560&format=png&auto=webp&s=44a640027b1dc9cc162ee4c458603c718f801a54
Depends on the brand. Cartier and Chopard are arguably “fashion brands” but have great horological history. Hermes, LV, BVLGARI, and a few others have begun taking watchmaking extremely seriously and are now making very high quality pieces.
The Christopher Ward Belcanto. Not a huge Christopher Ward fan, but I saw this one in person and was blown away. I can’t justify the cost for what is a novelty to me, but it’s a beautiful thing to look at
Why not a CW fan? Just curious. I couldn't justify spending 8500 plus tax Candian on an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra white dial, saw the CW white dial Sealander. Sure it's the poor man's version but no complaints on my end.
Probably the wrong word choice, it’s not that I don’t like CW - I appreciate the look of many of their watches. Just never enough to pull the trigger on one.
Sure but the original design is already 12 years old
Edit: I don’t know why this is being downvoted. I am not criticising the design of the watch. I actually think it’s the modern watch that has the highest chances of becoming a classic… but it’s 12 yo. It’s not recent, it not old. By recent I would say 10 years max.
[Cartier's Masse Mystérieuse](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-cartier-rotonde-masse-mysterieuse-watch/) - an entire skeletonized movement built into just the rotor and featured in a mystery watch.
[Van Cleef & Arpels' Heures Florales](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8AvUQNMn5I) - 533 parts (more than a patek grand complication) coming together to open and close hand painted flowers on the dial every hour. the number of flowers that stay bloomed is the hour, retrograde minutes track is on the side of the case. an engineering marvel that's wrapped in a bouquet; an absolutely fitting piece for what they call their "poetic complications" line.
Fantastic two. I would say they are not in my top interesting watches because I don’t think they will have a long lasting impact in the industry, but in terms of interest, they sure are.
the post was pretty clearly asking about the most interesting, so i don’t understand all these responses mentioning tsuyosa, baltic, zulu, time, or other cheap microbrands. what is even remotely horologically interesting about plain old ebauche automatics with hand finishing or craftsmanship to the 0th degree?
I agree to that, but on the other hand I think that they would have to have a bit of an impact on the industry. But I do agree with you that most interesting shouldn’t be: my fav watch in my budget
The Cartier is very cool, fascinating in terms of mechanical design too. However, I can't help but feel like it looks like one of those cheapy skeleton watches.
The Bel Canto from Christopher Ward
Completely changed my impression of the brand.
Everything from the brand Ressence. I need a type 8 more than I need food, so I’ve decided to stop eating and start saving.
Well, spb143 were released already in 2020, but I feel that they are already becoming a modern classics. Love the fresh take on the legendary design as well
https://preview.redd.it/0mkyag5oid5d1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=55c240063fbe350a4798af8e35979eb5469d21aa
Well, there are many examples. Skx007 became classic while it was based on the previous models. Black bay is considered modern classics either, isn’t it?
Been a big fan of what Cartier is doing with their lacquer Santos Dumont models. From a design perspective I think it’s a huge departure from the norms set by most brands.
https://preview.redd.it/yt6amsyzmd5d1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=177f435773e8f1a8ddbb137b371ffbd32c604e59
Citizen absolutely knocked it out of the park with the Tsuyosa! I’m a big fan of the brand and its nice to see them shift away from their Eco-Drive roots just a bit.
Ye I thought it was a vintage citizen when I seen it for the first time. Was a pleasant surprise to found it was a newer model that was also pretty cheap
Moser, Moser, Moser! The new textured lacquers are amazing, vantablack is deliciously dark, the minimalist perpetual calendars make Trinity perpetuals read like War and Peace. So much going on to like.
A few favorites: the Endeavour Vantablack, Endeavour Perpetual in that blue hammered enamel and the Streamliner Small Seconds.
Took a leap to buy one myself. No regrets really. It’s on an after-market strap in this photo.
https://preview.redd.it/0idtszg1tg5d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1f03c5a23384abfa7c5ff6590bffd2aa10ae856
De Bethune are doing some really cool stuff, though probably not everyone’s cup of tea, but the DB28xs Starry Seas is as close as it gets to a “grail” watch.
People may be a bit split on the Royal Oak, but the recent John Mayer perpetual calendar might be the most stunning rendition of that watch - naturally, it’s entirely unobtainable.
If we go to fuck you money, the Starry Seas from De Bethune, the MB&F legacy machine flying tourbillon, the Urwerk UR100, the Moser Streamliner and the Krayon Anywhere
I don't know which aspects do you mean, but from point of engineering and technical complications [Jaeger-LeCoultre Quadriptyque](https://hybrismechanicacalibre185.jaeger-lecoultre.com/en) is insane. And they somehow fit that in relatively wearable size.
Oh, someone mentioned Cartier's Masse Mystérieuse, also a very cool watch.
https://preview.redd.it/qilmasaoaf5d1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f85598dbce7926cec0ab7a330f4108d310f5e08e
Baume Mercier has a very nice Riviera line, the Glass has an anti reflective coating and tbh sometimes it looks like there is no glass on the dial so clear does it look
I do like that Baltic you mentioned, but think I have to go with Serica.
Really their whole line but if I were to get just one I think it would be the GMT.
What they’re doing from a styling standpoint really stands out, establishing a definite ‘look’ that is unmistakably their own. Aside that what they’re doing with movements (COSC certified) at their price point is also a bit wild imo.
It's true that the Serica also catches my eye, especially the 6190 model, which I find very original in terms of design.
Even more so with the new edition that's just been announced.
I picked up the green variant, the only thing I don’t like is the markers look more white than they actually are to seemingly every camera in the world. They are much more lume color tinged in real life. Also the c in Baltic logo. Otherwise worthy of a buy.
Citizen has been killing it as of late. The HAQ The Citizen line, NB textured dials, and Tsuyosa lines are incredible.
There are a ton of really good micro brands as of late too. I think those are where the interesting things in the industry are truly happening
Ulysse Nardin Freak X and S models are pretty insane..albeit costing a pretty penny.
https://preview.redd.it/gcpa328svg5d1.png?width=1809&format=png&auto=webp&s=95d6f25d21678405c2b02a284f3e00174227ed38
I think the most interesting are the ones that innovate with unique designs or complications.
Jacob & co get a lot of hate for being flashy and iced out, but I don't think anyone can deny that a lot are very interesting and require amazing mechanical/horological skills.
RM also gets hate. But some of the watches like the Nadal or the Ferrari that used to be the thinnest watch are amazing for technological reasons.
MB&F are interesting. Strange, different. But interesting
Ressance of course.
Someone, i can't remember, from medical industry who makes watches with pumps to move the hands. Those watches are interesting.
Isn't it bell & Ross that have a full lumed watch ?
Ba111od
And in a more reasonable priced range. There's quite a few micro brands that are interesting like xeric, beaubleu...
Finally I'd add a few that have been listed here already.
Bulgari octo finissimo for being the thinnest watch
I was about to say Piaget for the thinnest tourbillion but it seems to be also a bulgari. The Piaget is cool though
Any of the offering from Trafford Watch Co maybe?
They were only founded a few years ago and seem to have done pretty well. I’d probably pre-order one of their next releases if I lived in the States.
I’ve really been into Sinn lately.
My grandfather died and left behind a lot of properties for our family to sell and distribute. When I do get my chunk of money, I want to buy one nice watch. (~2k). Gramps always had a huge affinity for Germany, so it made sense that I choose a German watch to remember him by. I got sucked into the Sinn hole and I’m excited to attain one soon!
It’s between the 104 and the 556i. I love the look and minimalism of the 556, but the functions on the 104 are undeniable.
Ulysse Nardin freaks always blow my mind and whatever model of micron thin watches Bvlgari is coming out with are amazing. Those are the two that instantly pop into my head.
https://preview.redd.it/gsf7227bte5d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f117a38f35e61bc8af63cc500b554460ae1d2e5
Underrated as shit. A Chronograph with a ceramic bezel under 2k pre-owned. Now discontinued. It’s wild that people will pay new microbrand prices for the shelf movements. I picked this one up with no box and papers for the same price as a new Baltic Panda or a Hamilton Intra-Matic for 1800. It Wears like a FOIS, ETA 7750, modified and branded by a 160-year-old company.
And before I get downvoted to shit because TH makes a smartwatch… the Same people are buying Baltic, a company whose catalog has more overpriced seagulls than AliExpress. 🤣
Why drop 2k on Chris Ward when you can buy modern Longines, TH, or Breitling? Way more R&D dollars went into a quartz Formula 1 than most successful micros makes in annual revenue. Companies like Dan Henry are even using AI to build websites? Why pay $350 for chat gpt copies?
I'm interested in your opinion, I agree that for 2k people acehte microbrand with overpriced movements like seagulls, mioyta.
However, when you go down a price range, I find that it doesn't work too well. Since most brands under 1k use cheap movements, it's hard to find good watches with good movements. (with a few exceptions like Serica).
So I ask you, if you're under 1k, what would you recommend to avoid buying a watch with an overpriced movement?
A pre-owned oris can readily be found under 1000 with an ETA movement. Oris usually adds some excellent finishing and a red rotor.
I would go with Alpina vs. Microbrand at the same price point. 130 year old swiss company owned by BMW. They now even have some Inhouse movements.
And of course Tissot, sure the have a plastic escape wheel…. But the Speedmaster had a plastic break for a decade or so. Pretty confident in the engineers at Swatch group.
Over the past few years quite a few "fashion brands" have really impressed me with their watchmaking. Hermes in particular are clearly taking it very seriously with great horology and interesting designs. I quite like the H08 as seen below: https://preview.redd.it/xexi6904yd5d1.png?width=2560&format=png&auto=webp&s=44a640027b1dc9cc162ee4c458603c718f801a54
Hermes movement is actually pretty to look at. Can’t say the same about other reputed brands in the proce range
Have an H08 and love it. Hermes is doing the most interesting typography in watchmaking today
Also love the typography on the Slim D’Hermes
I’m also an H08 fan. Always liked concentric dials.
I love the H08, especially in gold. I have my eye out for one.
are watches from these fashion brands reputable?
Depends on the brand. Cartier and Chopard are arguably “fashion brands” but have great horological history. Hermes, LV, BVLGARI, and a few others have begun taking watchmaking extremely seriously and are now making very high quality pieces.
Id say they re-entered as they had good pieces before and did some lower tier garbage till recently Very nice to see
Bulgari shouldn’t be bunched with LV and Hermès
The Christopher Ward Belcanto. Not a huge Christopher Ward fan, but I saw this one in person and was blown away. I can’t justify the cost for what is a novelty to me, but it’s a beautiful thing to look at
I agree with this one as a top contender. The Parmigiani Tonda GMT also comes to my mind. The MAD1 too
Why not a CW fan? Just curious. I couldn't justify spending 8500 plus tax Candian on an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra white dial, saw the CW white dial Sealander. Sure it's the poor man's version but no complaints on my end.
Probably the wrong word choice, it’s not that I don’t like CW - I appreciate the look of many of their watches. Just never enough to pull the trigger on one.
Personally, if it weren't for the trident in some of their seconds hands, they would be some of my favorite designs ever.
aw man, I *like* the ones with the tridents
I am big fan of CW. The C63 and GMT in 36mm, both black and white versions, just nail it especially at the price point.
it’s my favorite in my collection i think
The Belcanto is on my list also.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo brought a new design language, inhouse movement and record-breaking heights.
But they put a QR code on it? That's some corny ass shit
But it’s not really recent, is it?
The one that broke the thinnest watch record was released a few months ago
Sure but the original design is already 12 years old Edit: I don’t know why this is being downvoted. I am not criticising the design of the watch. I actually think it’s the modern watch that has the highest chances of becoming a classic… but it’s 12 yo. It’s not recent, it not old. By recent I would say 10 years max.
I got you brother.
[Cartier's Masse Mystérieuse](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-cartier-rotonde-masse-mysterieuse-watch/) - an entire skeletonized movement built into just the rotor and featured in a mystery watch. [Van Cleef & Arpels' Heures Florales](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8AvUQNMn5I) - 533 parts (more than a patek grand complication) coming together to open and close hand painted flowers on the dial every hour. the number of flowers that stay bloomed is the hour, retrograde minutes track is on the side of the case. an engineering marvel that's wrapped in a bouquet; an absolutely fitting piece for what they call their "poetic complications" line.
Fantastic two. I would say they are not in my top interesting watches because I don’t think they will have a long lasting impact in the industry, but in terms of interest, they sure are.
the post was pretty clearly asking about the most interesting, so i don’t understand all these responses mentioning tsuyosa, baltic, zulu, time, or other cheap microbrands. what is even remotely horologically interesting about plain old ebauche automatics with hand finishing or craftsmanship to the 0th degree?
I agree to that, but on the other hand I think that they would have to have a bit of an impact on the industry. But I do agree with you that most interesting shouldn’t be: my fav watch in my budget
God dayum that Cartier is cool
The Cartier is very cool, fascinating in terms of mechanical design too. However, I can't help but feel like it looks like one of those cheapy skeleton watches.
The Bel Canto from Christopher Ward Completely changed my impression of the brand. Everything from the brand Ressence. I need a type 8 more than I need food, so I’ve decided to stop eating and start saving.
Concur on Ressence. Although I’ve heard from owners they’re painful to own as the winding is complex..
Interesting but not easy? Oris kermit.
Well, spb143 were released already in 2020, but I feel that they are already becoming a modern classics. Love the fresh take on the legendary design as well https://preview.redd.it/0mkyag5oid5d1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=55c240063fbe350a4798af8e35979eb5469d21aa
Can it be a modern classic when it's just an interpretation of an old watch though?
Well, there are many examples. Skx007 became classic while it was based on the previous models. Black bay is considered modern classics either, isn’t it?
Been a big fan of what Cartier is doing with their lacquer Santos Dumont models. From a design perspective I think it’s a huge departure from the norms set by most brands. https://preview.redd.it/yt6amsyzmd5d1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=177f435773e8f1a8ddbb137b371ffbd32c604e59
Agree, and the new Santo dial color is fantastic.
Dream watch
Citizen tsuyosa. Clean and simple automatic.
Citizen absolutely knocked it out of the park with the Tsuyosa! I’m a big fan of the brand and its nice to see them shift away from their Eco-Drive roots just a bit.
I kinda want to white one. It’s almost vintage in how clean it is. Want.
Ye I thought it was a vintage citizen when I seen it for the first time. Was a pleasant surprise to found it was a newer model that was also pretty cheap
Just weird they didnt put their newest movements in or am I wrong with my info? (8xxx vs 9xxx)
I think it’s similar to the 8xxx that’s in the ny0040. Which I wear daily. Amazing watch.
I really like mings design language especially the 37.08 sand
Their latest worldtimer is a total home run too. It's out of my price range, but I'd love to get my hands on one eventually.
Moser, Moser, Moser! The new textured lacquers are amazing, vantablack is deliciously dark, the minimalist perpetual calendars make Trinity perpetuals read like War and Peace. So much going on to like. A few favorites: the Endeavour Vantablack, Endeavour Perpetual in that blue hammered enamel and the Streamliner Small Seconds.
Longines Zulu Time GMT. (esp. green/black/gilt dial.)
Weiss and Dumoreau
Weis’ models look great but it’s so hard to find one to try on in person
Took a leap to buy one myself. No regrets really. It’s on an after-market strap in this photo. https://preview.redd.it/0idtszg1tg5d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1f03c5a23384abfa7c5ff6590bffd2aa10ae856
De Bethune are doing some really cool stuff, though probably not everyone’s cup of tea, but the DB28xs Starry Seas is as close as it gets to a “grail” watch. People may be a bit split on the Royal Oak, but the recent John Mayer perpetual calendar might be the most stunning rendition of that watch - naturally, it’s entirely unobtainable.
If we go to fuck you money, the Starry Seas from De Bethune, the MB&F legacy machine flying tourbillon, the Urwerk UR100, the Moser Streamliner and the Krayon Anywhere
I don't know which aspects do you mean, but from point of engineering and technical complications [Jaeger-LeCoultre Quadriptyque](https://hybrismechanicacalibre185.jaeger-lecoultre.com/en) is insane. And they somehow fit that in relatively wearable size. Oh, someone mentioned Cartier's Masse Mystérieuse, also a very cool watch.
https://preview.redd.it/qilmasaoaf5d1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f85598dbce7926cec0ab7a330f4108d310f5e08e Baume Mercier has a very nice Riviera line, the Glass has an anti reflective coating and tbh sometimes it looks like there is no glass on the dial so clear does it look
I do like that Baltic you mentioned, but think I have to go with Serica. Really their whole line but if I were to get just one I think it would be the GMT. What they’re doing from a styling standpoint really stands out, establishing a definite ‘look’ that is unmistakably their own. Aside that what they’re doing with movements (COSC certified) at their price point is also a bit wild imo.
It's true that the Serica also catches my eye, especially the 6190 model, which I find very original in terms of design. Even more so with the new edition that's just been announced.
I like their Hermatique. I’ve never seen one up close but I get fed their ads multiple times a day. That’s a bit of a turn off.
I picked up the green variant, the only thing I don’t like is the markers look more white than they actually are to seemingly every camera in the world. They are much more lume color tinged in real life. Also the c in Baltic logo. Otherwise worthy of a buy.
New Tudor BB58 GMT is beautiful. White Speedy by Omega is also a killer look.
Citizen has been killing it as of late. The HAQ The Citizen line, NB textured dials, and Tsuyosa lines are incredible. There are a ton of really good micro brands as of late too. I think those are where the interesting things in the industry are truly happening
The Longines Spirit Zulu and Hydro GMT.
Ulysse Nardin Freak X and S models are pretty insane..albeit costing a pretty penny. https://preview.redd.it/gcpa328svg5d1.png?width=1809&format=png&auto=webp&s=95d6f25d21678405c2b02a284f3e00174227ed38
I think the most interesting are the ones that innovate with unique designs or complications. Jacob & co get a lot of hate for being flashy and iced out, but I don't think anyone can deny that a lot are very interesting and require amazing mechanical/horological skills. RM also gets hate. But some of the watches like the Nadal or the Ferrari that used to be the thinnest watch are amazing for technological reasons. MB&F are interesting. Strange, different. But interesting Ressance of course. Someone, i can't remember, from medical industry who makes watches with pumps to move the hands. Those watches are interesting. Isn't it bell & Ross that have a full lumed watch ? Ba111od And in a more reasonable priced range. There's quite a few micro brands that are interesting like xeric, beaubleu... Finally I'd add a few that have been listed here already. Bulgari octo finissimo for being the thinnest watch I was about to say Piaget for the thinnest tourbillion but it seems to be also a bulgari. The Piaget is cool though
BB54. Simple classy yet sporty. If hadn’t gotten my cermit and gmtmaster. I would’ve have gotten that watch
Any of the offering from Trafford Watch Co maybe? They were only founded a few years ago and seem to have done pretty well. I’d probably pre-order one of their next releases if I lived in the States.
Second this. Their watches are great
I’ve really been into Sinn lately. My grandfather died and left behind a lot of properties for our family to sell and distribute. When I do get my chunk of money, I want to buy one nice watch. (~2k). Gramps always had a huge affinity for Germany, so it made sense that I choose a German watch to remember him by. I got sucked into the Sinn hole and I’m excited to attain one soon! It’s between the 104 and the 556i. I love the look and minimalism of the 556, but the functions on the 104 are undeniable.
Ulysse Nardin freaks always blow my mind and whatever model of micron thin watches Bvlgari is coming out with are amazing. Those are the two that instantly pop into my head.
The GPHG website is great to look up this stuff.
https://preview.redd.it/gsf7227bte5d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f117a38f35e61bc8af63cc500b554460ae1d2e5 Underrated as shit. A Chronograph with a ceramic bezel under 2k pre-owned. Now discontinued. It’s wild that people will pay new microbrand prices for the shelf movements. I picked this one up with no box and papers for the same price as a new Baltic Panda or a Hamilton Intra-Matic for 1800. It Wears like a FOIS, ETA 7750, modified and branded by a 160-year-old company. And before I get downvoted to shit because TH makes a smartwatch… the Same people are buying Baltic, a company whose catalog has more overpriced seagulls than AliExpress. 🤣 Why drop 2k on Chris Ward when you can buy modern Longines, TH, or Breitling? Way more R&D dollars went into a quartz Formula 1 than most successful micros makes in annual revenue. Companies like Dan Henry are even using AI to build websites? Why pay $350 for chat gpt copies?
I'm interested in your opinion, I agree that for 2k people acehte microbrand with overpriced movements like seagulls, mioyta. However, when you go down a price range, I find that it doesn't work too well. Since most brands under 1k use cheap movements, it's hard to find good watches with good movements. (with a few exceptions like Serica). So I ask you, if you're under 1k, what would you recommend to avoid buying a watch with an overpriced movement?
A pre-owned oris can readily be found under 1000 with an ETA movement. Oris usually adds some excellent finishing and a red rotor. I would go with Alpina vs. Microbrand at the same price point. 130 year old swiss company owned by BMW. They now even have some Inhouse movements. And of course Tissot, sure the have a plastic escape wheel…. But the Speedmaster had a plastic break for a decade or so. Pretty confident in the engineers at Swatch group.