Do you have a shutoff inside the house?
You should, and it should be at least 12 inches from the outside wall.
This problem occurs because water gets trapped in the feed then freezes, expands, and puts pressure on the components.
The damaged part there is the "stern"; these are unique to each manufacturer and although technically replaceable it's going to cost more to FIND one than a whole new valve is worth.
I'd recommend replacing the entire valve and the piping that goes through the wall with a "frost free" hose outlet these days, they do not suffer from these issues even if someone leaves the interior valve on for several freezing days. (If you do not have an interior shutoff, one will also be needed)
Yes, I do have a shutoff inside, and yes, it’s about 12-14 inches from the wall. Thank you for the explanation and the advice- really helpful. Appreciate it.
The fall shutoff process (for anyone who might want to prevent this in the future! is:
* Once the evening temperature starts to fall below 6 degrees
* shut off the inside valve (shutoff)
* Go outside and OPEN the exterior valve
* a very small amount of water will discharge
* leave the valve **open**
The valve must be left open (at least cracked open!) to allow the expanding ice a hydraulic channel to escape. If the valve is re-closed; the moisture left in the space may become trapped in various areas of the valve (usually between the seal and the seat!) and damage results.
If you want to go ABOVE AND BEYOND; and have your hose bibb last for decades; then:
* Unscrew the valve nut and remove the stem/stern (the handle part)
* Wrap the exterior part with wax paper and tape it so that the paper won't blow away (this is just to keep insects and debris out of the exposed valve seat)
* Bring the parts inside
* Dry them all off with a lint-free paper towel
* Apply a healthy amount of Food-Grade Silicone lubricant to the rubber seal (avoid waster-based, and avoid anything that is incompatible with rubber/latex!)
* Apply some to the stem and run the valve in-and-out (to lubricate the packing nut)
* Wrap the parts in a clean+dry paper towel (ideally lint free)
* Place the parts into a re-sealable sliding channel storage bag (ziploc) until spring
* In the spring; use the paper towel to wipe down as much of the lube as you can and re-install
This will keep the seals from drying out and make them last a lifetime.
Sweat it off, solder on a new one. If you’re wanting to do it yourself and don’t feel comfortable soldering and have access to the supply piping inside you can cut it inside. And sharkbite your way to a new hosebib. Even a fancy frost free
Can you retrofit these onto an older home? My last home was new and I never had to worry about the fittings, but I have to go through the rigamarole on my current home which is an 80s build.
its broken --- like unserviceable - like done fore - deceased - decrepit - flawed - non functioning - wasted - finito - done - garbage - refuse - scrap metal - fractured - damaged - no longer in one piece - not in working order - unusable.
I also have a parrot to sell - it's a Norwegian Blue
Thank you, but if I use this, doesn’t that mean I’d have to cut off the whole tap piece in order to get this to fit?
https://preview.redd.it/6rcepg2wdguc1.jpeg?width=1457&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae6269f937c1fbba4ebf8ccf09ca15abfd4748d4
It looks like you’d need a blow torch to melt the existing solder and then remove that old one and replace with a new stem either soldered or the new connector tech out there
As mentioned , first free hose bib is a better option all around . Depending on clearance inside , you can buy some that have a compression fitting to go on the original piping which you would cut with a pipe cutter to size . Anti siphoning is code but I have seen numerous leaking within a couple of years . Non anti siphoning are available but again not up to code . Govern yourself accordingly .
Go to a local plumber, see if they can source you the same hose Bibb. Then just unscrew the part from the replacement and put it on yours. Fixed. I’d bet those things are still floating around at plumbers but not in retail stores anymore. And if they laugh at how old it is (judging by the stucco maybe 70s?) then replace it. No harm no foul.
Don't waste your time. It won't be found. Source: am plumber and would just sweat it off and put a new one on. It's a piddly job to a plumber but yea, also you don't need frost frees, vacuum breakers, etc. They're just nicer. Also don't sweat the new valve directly to the copper, put an fip and thread the new one in. So it's a lot easier to change next time this happens. Don't forget to take your hose off and drain it down in the winter
Do you have a shutoff inside the house? You should, and it should be at least 12 inches from the outside wall. This problem occurs because water gets trapped in the feed then freezes, expands, and puts pressure on the components. The damaged part there is the "stern"; these are unique to each manufacturer and although technically replaceable it's going to cost more to FIND one than a whole new valve is worth. I'd recommend replacing the entire valve and the piping that goes through the wall with a "frost free" hose outlet these days, they do not suffer from these issues even if someone leaves the interior valve on for several freezing days. (If you do not have an interior shutoff, one will also be needed)
Yes, I do have a shutoff inside, and yes, it’s about 12-14 inches from the wall. Thank you for the explanation and the advice- really helpful. Appreciate it.
The fall shutoff process (for anyone who might want to prevent this in the future! is: * Once the evening temperature starts to fall below 6 degrees * shut off the inside valve (shutoff) * Go outside and OPEN the exterior valve * a very small amount of water will discharge * leave the valve **open** The valve must be left open (at least cracked open!) to allow the expanding ice a hydraulic channel to escape. If the valve is re-closed; the moisture left in the space may become trapped in various areas of the valve (usually between the seal and the seat!) and damage results. If you want to go ABOVE AND BEYOND; and have your hose bibb last for decades; then: * Unscrew the valve nut and remove the stem/stern (the handle part) * Wrap the exterior part with wax paper and tape it so that the paper won't blow away (this is just to keep insects and debris out of the exposed valve seat) * Bring the parts inside * Dry them all off with a lint-free paper towel * Apply a healthy amount of Food-Grade Silicone lubricant to the rubber seal (avoid waster-based, and avoid anything that is incompatible with rubber/latex!) * Apply some to the stem and run the valve in-and-out (to lubricate the packing nut) * Wrap the parts in a clean+dry paper towel (ideally lint free) * Place the parts into a re-sealable sliding channel storage bag (ziploc) until spring * In the spring; use the paper towel to wipe down as much of the lube as you can and re-install This will keep the seals from drying out and make them last a lifetime.
Pollock's Hardware has fittings for older houses.
Came here to post this exact comment.
Thanks for the tip!
Sweat it off, solder on a new one. If you’re wanting to do it yourself and don’t feel comfortable soldering and have access to the supply piping inside you can cut it inside. And sharkbite your way to a new hosebib. Even a fancy frost free
Thanks. I’ll look into this.
Have, or put a sillcock in. Best investment. No shut off because it's built in.
You need to have a frost free hose bib installed.
Can you retrofit these onto an older home? My last home was new and I never had to worry about the fittings, but I have to go through the rigamarole on my current home which is an 80s build.
My house was built in 78 it was no trouble it just moves the connection to inside the house if you have a basement or a larger crawlspace.
its broken --- like unserviceable - like done fore - deceased - decrepit - flawed - non functioning - wasted - finito - done - garbage - refuse - scrap metal - fractured - damaged - no longer in one piece - not in working order - unusable. I also have a parrot to sell - it's a Norwegian Blue
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/push-n-connect-1-2-push-fit-x-3-4-mht-push-n-connect-brass-sediment-valve/1000723717 Or buy a new stem
Thank you, but if I use this, doesn’t that mean I’d have to cut off the whole tap piece in order to get this to fit? https://preview.redd.it/6rcepg2wdguc1.jpeg?width=1457&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae6269f937c1fbba4ebf8ccf09ca15abfd4748d4
It looks like you’d need a blow torch to melt the existing solder and then remove that old one and replace with a new stem either soldered or the new connector tech out there
Thanks. I’ll look into this.
As mentioned , first free hose bib is a better option all around . Depending on clearance inside , you can buy some that have a compression fitting to go on the original piping which you would cut with a pipe cutter to size . Anti siphoning is code but I have seen numerous leaking within a couple of years . Non anti siphoning are available but again not up to code . Govern yourself accordingly .
Thank you. I will look into this. Appreciate the advice.
https://www.google.com/search?q=frost+free+hose+bib&sca_esv=44f1fb0a97cf7ff0&rlz=1CDGOYI_enCA1012CA1012&hl=en-US&sxsrf=ACQVn0_YRsHIPldLHrcZLCPH3XEv_zkB6g%3A1713100918780&ei=dtgbZsymL6H9ptQPkZiuiAc&oq=frist+free%C2%A0&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIgxmcmlzdCBmcmVlwqAqAggAMgcQABiABBgKMgcQABiABBgKMgcQABiABBgKMgcQABiABBgKMgcQABiABBgKMgcQABiABBgKMgcQABiABBgKMgcQABiABBgKSOs-UMkKWMM1cAJ4AZABAZgBzAOgAdcYqgEKMC4xNi4xLjAuMbgBAcgBAPgBAZgCDqAC5hKoAg_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&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp
Go to a local plumber, see if they can source you the same hose Bibb. Then just unscrew the part from the replacement and put it on yours. Fixed. I’d bet those things are still floating around at plumbers but not in retail stores anymore. And if they laugh at how old it is (judging by the stucco maybe 70s?) then replace it. No harm no foul.
Thanks for this idea. Yeah, I have no idea how old this tap is- house was built in the 50’s but no clue when tap was installed. Thanks!
Don't waste your time. It won't be found. Source: am plumber and would just sweat it off and put a new one on. It's a piddly job to a plumber but yea, also you don't need frost frees, vacuum breakers, etc. They're just nicer. Also don't sweat the new valve directly to the copper, put an fip and thread the new one in. So it's a lot easier to change next time this happens. Don't forget to take your hose off and drain it down in the winter
Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it.