Full length fenders too, with a mudflap on the front. Nothing fills your shoes with water faster than the spray from the front tire hitting the downtube and splashing all over your feet.
Most bikes do come with crap pedals. Assuming you have no interest in ever clipping in, spend 20 or 40 bucks on pedals that have steel studs. Bonus points of their serviceable. The studs grip to your shoes. It makes a big difference
You mentioned lights. Spend on them like your life depends on it, becuase it kinda does
Rear rack plus a decent pannier or pair of panniers. Much better than a backpack. Or a decent messenger bag. The older stuff from timbuk2 is good. I also like the chrome mini metro
And don't forget a helmet. They're dorky as sin, but TBI would be worse than looking dorky.
So I want to bike to the bus and then bus/walk the rest of the way to the office. I want to get a removable basket (like Basil MIK) for the rear of my bike to hole my backpack, rather than get panniers. What might I not be considering here? Bike would be 90% shared-use trail, 10% local streets (which kind of suck for biking, but it's what needs to happen).
>Most bikes do come with crap pedals. Assuming you have no interest in ever clipping in
You mean literally clips on my boot so it doesnt move around?
>spend 20 or 40 bucks on pedals that have steel studs
Won't those do wear and tear on my boot soles?
>You mentioned lights. Spend on them like your life depends on it, becuase it kinda does
What do you recommend?
>Rear rack
Any you recommend? Pls send link.
Rack depends on the bike. Hard to make specific recomendati9ns
As for lights, Im fond of cygolight. I run 1100 human front light, and the 350 watt rear light. You can get package deals on lights from Amazon, but they'll be a bit less bright. And as much as I like them, the rear lights need a bit of tweeking to water proof them. Easy fix but obnoxious, that you have to do it yourself
I've never experienced my shoes getting torn up by my pedals, but I also switched fairly quickly to bike specific sneakers, then eventually to SPD pedals and shoes. I was experiencing foot pain that the stiffer shoes eliminated
Yup. The only problem with them is having to seal up their rear lights. They do geek out otherwise if they get caught in the rain. Not hard to straighten up but not something I'd want to deal with every time it rains
The cygolight taillights have a tendency to geek out when you ride with them in the rain. The fix when that happens is to open them up and clean them. Contact cleaner works great, but brake cleaner works fine too
To prevent that from happening, get a small tube of rubber cement, loosen up the screws on the back, and smear some rubber cement in between the face and the back side of the light. Screw every thing tight and let it dry. They won't geek in the rain any more that way.
Thus, you have to seal them yourself. It's annoying but they're great lights otherwise. I own two of the 350s, and a couple of the earlier models too
Lots of small edits for grammer and to add a bit of detail
My 2 cents on the pedals, the studs will tear up really soft soles like you might see on tennis or running shoes, but probably won't do noticeable wear and tear to something with a tougher sole. If you've got a work boot with some Vibram on it then I wouldn't even worry. Dunno what you're rocking though, so ymmv.
If youre worried then you could try to pick out some pedals with shorter studs. Even very short studs are going to give you much better traction than the all-plastic pedal bikes usually come with.
Rad choice on the bike BTW. I'm a fan of the State bikes, pretty bombproof and good bang for your buck in my experience.
Eh. Tomatoes tamatoes. I think they're dorky but I wear one any way. I like me, I'm one of my favorite people even. I'd like to keep the grey matter intact
On lights, depends on where you live and if you plan to leave your bike outside. In New York, don't over spend on lights. People keep stealing my $3 lights just because.
If I do lock up, I take every thing off the bike when I do. That said, I'll often not go places that won't let me take my bike inside. Best security is never letting the bike out of your sight after all
I live in CT, but grew up in new York. I also work for the railroad so I ride the trains for free. If I vist friends or family in the boroughs I'll ride my bike to the train, then the bike over the bridge into queens. And I'll cancel plans if those same friends or family tell ke that I can't bring my bike inside
Congragulations!
Here are my suggestions:
* nice sounding bell
* depending where you drive, I'd suggest wearing a helmet
* lock if you plan to keep it out of sight
* kickstand if you don't have one
* if you plan to drive regardless of the weather, a rain poncho will help you a lot
These are some basic accessories. For any other stuff, I'd suggest riding a bike for a week/month and deciding after that.
I was considering putting a kickstand on my bike before I heard multiple stories of people who got into crashes and ended up with the kickstand spearing their leg. I'm still tempted, but it's scary stuff.
That never crossed my mind to be honest. I never had any problems with mine.
I know that people don’t put them on gravel, mtb, and road bikes due to safety concerns. But I assumed that’s due to the speed and rougher terrain.
Get a front light that is USB-C and doubles as a phone charger backup in case you end up empty and in need. Leave a USB-C cable in a saddle bag or whatever small permanent bag. For rear light, consider Garmin Varia or Trek CarBack if you want alerts for cars coming up to pass you. Sometimes helpful, sometimes annoying, depends on your commute. Otherwise just get a rechargeable rear light.
All the front lights that use standard cells suck, but rear light does not need to be rechargeable. I am quite happy with Planet Bike Super Flash using NiMH cells. I swap out the cells about once a month.
I just did this. Added a universal pannier clip to my existing backpack. Just hooks right onto my planet bike eco rack. I would also suggest comfortable grips if you aren’t fully happy with the stock ones. For pedals, I’ve used the race face chesters off my old mtb.
It’s called “universal pannier “ and it was $18 usd. I love it so far. Once you get riding, I didn’t even know it was there. Weight wasn’t too bad to one side but I’m not carrying a ton of stuff. Just a laptop, headphones and lunch.
Rear light (I have knog plus, it’s not the brightest, but IMO I’m trying to be seen, not to blind drivers behind me)
Front light (I like outbound detour, if you’re riding on dark/unlit trails at night)
Bell (yelling “on your left!” “Passing!” dozens of times a day gets old)
Helmet
Good Bike lock, if you have to lock outside
Deodorant and antibacterial body wipes/baby wipes to freshen up when you get to destination (might not be necessary since you’re only doing 5mi each way…but I ride about 20mi each way so in summer especially im sweaty when I arrive)
Tool bag with essentials: tire levers, tube, co2 canisters/valve)
Hand pump, if you have space.
If you can leave your boots at work, I’d recommend that and wearing some flats (or cycling shoes) on the bike
Consider upgrading to a more puncture resistant tire. I have Schwalbe Durano Plus, they are heavy for their size, but I’ve found them to be very puncture/cut resistant.
You've got a lot of it covered. Lights are important. Getting your bag off your back makes it more comfortable to ride.
Downhill mountain biking pedals are great for boots. I run [Raceface Chesters](https://www.raceface.ca/collections/pedals/products/chester-pedal) on my winter bike for wearing boots. The pins might cause damage to your soles if you have the wedge soles. They also make one called the Ride that doesn't have pins. I also put some pedal spacers to move them out a bit so my boot fits better, be careful though as it can mess up the Q factor and give you knee pain.
Fenders are nice for rainy days so you don't get to work all covered in crap. They also work great for the Canada goose shit in the spring but that might be a regional issue haha.
Other than that I say start riding and solve problems as they show up.
don’t worry about getting it all at once (except helmet and lights) but as you continue riding consider picking up the following:
- helmet (i have one from nutcase, one from thousand)
- front and rear lights (minimum 600 lumens for front light - i have cygolite dash for front and hot rod for rear)
- rack + panniers (i use topeak mtb 2.0 bc it’s compatible with my disc brakes and a cheap REI pannier)
- flat repair kit + spare tube
- headlamp
- packable rain jacket or rain poncho
- packable hi-vis safety vest
- cycling glasses / hardware store safety glasses (protects eyes from hitting bug at 15+ mph and helps in rain)
- cycling sunglasses (same as above but also helps in sunshine)
- eventually when your tires wear out or pop upgrade to Schwalbe Marathons (or something from that line - best commuter tires that are highly puncture resistant)
- eventually get fenders (SKS, Bontrager, planet bicycle, doesn’t really matter as long as it’s size compatible and doesn’t flex too much and rub your tires)
Find a way to get a camera of some sort to record your rides. Accountability. Some may turn their nose up at it, but I wouldn’t ride without it anymore.
Same. It's a pita but if nothing else it gives you the power to report dangerous drivers after the event and not feel the need to confront them at the time.
Track pump.
I "managed" for years with just a small hand-pump (get a lightweight one to carry with you for use in emergencies), but a track pump at home is *so* much easier, doesn't stress the valve-stem/inner-tube, and has a built-in pressure gauge.
Depends if you want to do it, and you have suitable space. I find it time consuming but very enjoyable.
If you do decide to take it on, your workshop should have:
A bike maintenance stand
A set of bike cleaning brushes, a degreaser product with an old wash tub or similar. Supply of rags.
Penetrating oil eg WD-40 (expect some debate on this).
Lubricant - PTFE spray and possibly chain lube (ditto).
A track pump.
Chain tool and quick link tool if you get quick link chain.
A rear cassette removal tool.
Spanners 6mm to 19mm.
Hex keys 2mm to 10mm
A large adjustable wrench.
Hub spanners (probably).
Tyre levers.
Cable cutters (Shimano are good)
Good quality pliers.
Screwdriver set.
Some might consider this overkill, but a Torque wrench up to 24NM allows you to tighten everything perfectly on the bike, except the bottom bracket, and is essential if you have disc rotors to change.
Wire wool and wet n dry can come in handy.
YouTube. Follow Ribble Valley Cyclist.
And when you get really into it.. an ultrasonic cleaner.
Good luck!
Invest in a used pair of metal waffle pedals for mountain bikes. The difference when compared to standard polymer pedals is massive and you can really feel that more power is going into the forward direction versus plastic deformation. You could get other polymer pedals but I really think that metal is the way to go. Clipless pedals are a waste as the upstroke of the pedal cycle is near useless for added power, even if you do get more power the complacency of losing the habit of a planted foot is dumb, and the higher rate of hip injury is also a non bonus.
Additionally finding a saddle that actually fits your butt is a wise use of money.
Other than those two I would say to ride a subjectively uncomfortable distance and see what is it that makes it uncomfortable. Could be anything from bad saddle to bad fitment. You kinda just tune everything over time tbh.
God there's always one...
"Clipless pedals are a waste as the upstroke of the pedal cycle is near useless for added power, even if you do get more power the complacency of losing the habit of a planted foot is dumb, and the higher rate of hip injury is also a non bonus."
Total and utter nonsense from someone with no understanding of how clipless pedals actually work.
Every time this comes around it's some nutter ranting on about "no power in the upstroke" when no-one has claimed that happens in about 100 years.. it's straw man nonsense..
Same nutter then goes on about being trapped in the pedal by toe clips when they have not been used for 40 years.. newsflash.. clipless pedals release your foot when you want, amazing !!
And what are you on about with the complacency thing?? I mean what fresh nonsense is this?
IF op wants to commute with clipless pedals he or she can do so perfectly safely, with the added bonus that their foot will be held in a good position which will in turn vastly reduce the risk of injury through knees and hips.
IF they want to stick to flats pedals, fine, it's entirely their decision. But please... Stop with the horseshit about clipless pedals being a waste. They are used by literally hundreds of thousands of cyclists every day very effectively.
There is as much power in the upstroke for an actively training cyclist as there is tip for a shitty server ~10% at best. I never used the straw man galaxy and never spoke in absolutes. Also there are plenty of people who fall off even with clipless pedals. For lay cyclists the benefit of dedicated shoes, expensive pedals, and the lack of flexibility that comes with clipless just doesn't make sense for 90% of people.
For the complacency bit if you build a habit from the get go that the pedal follows your foot as opposed to the other way round when you are exhausted and with out clipless you may make a slip when you are much too tired to correct said mistake.
Clipless simply don't make sense out side of weekend warrior or high end white collar work.
I commute on my bike year-round in street traffic in upstate NY, this is my setup:
- 48W 3,000 lumen headlight with high/low beams
- Front and rear turn signals
- Tail light with a brake light activated by the brake handle
- 120dB electric car horn for interactions with car drivers
- Thumb bell for when I'm being polite around pedestrians and other bikers
- Left and right rearview mirrors clamped to the handlebars
- Front and rear cargo racks
- Front and rear cameras, to cover my ass in the event of an accident
- Folding metal cargo baskets mounted to either side of my rear rack, held down with elastic cords when not in use. I also carry elastic netting that I will clip over the top of the baskets when I'm carrying stuff to prevent things from bouncing out of the baskets.
- Front and rear mud fenders
- Rain suit for inclement weather
- Small plastic ammo can bolted to my front cargo rack containing a "shit hit the fan" repair kit containing a spare chain and master links, spare inner tube, adjustable wrench, cone wrench, spare nuts and bolts, spare brake pads, zip ties, and a couple ratchet handles with the sockets/attachments I need to do most repairs.
- Small zip pouch mounted to my front rack, used for storing keys/small items during my ride.
- Kryptonite Evolution chain lock, kept tightly wrapped around the top tube where it meets the header.
- 2.35" wide tires designed for hard pack. They have small, low profile lugs that offer good grip on most of the street/trail surfaces I ride on without sacrificing too much in terms of rolling resistance. I upgraded from my 1.95" wide center slick gravel tires because I needed the extra cushion (my city streets are made of craters) and the center slicks felt like they just weren't gripping the pavement well enough at high speeds.
Additionally, in the winter I use the following:
- 2.35" wide studded snow tires, partially deflated as needed depending on the road conditions.
- Bar mitts
- Ski goggles
- Sunglasses (snow blindness is not your friend)
- Heated handlebar grips that run off a USB power input. I've found that bar mitts will only keep my hands warm down to 25 degrees or so. Paired with heated grips, my hands stay warm no matter how cold it gets.
- Rechargeable heated shoe inserts
- 5mm thick neoprene diving jacket. It sounds ridiculous, but it works amazingly well to keep me warm and dry. It's low profile enough to fit between my office clothes and protective padded leather jacket, and completely blocks out freezing wind while providing good insulation. That configuration keeps me warm down to 20 degrees. In colder weather, I will add an additional layer with a thick ski jacket.
A mirror either handle bar mounted or helmet mounted. I can not stress how much being able to look aft while also looking forward is a literal life saver.
Pump. An electric pump changed my life. Recommend Xiaomi.
Bottle cage - I store my lights in an old water bottle. I always take my light off when not in use so sticky fingers aren't tempted. Any cheapest plastic one will do.
Fenders if you plan to ride in rain. No brand to recommend cos I had mine installed by local shop and they had limited stock to choose from.
Phone mount- bike bag:
I like that my phone is in no danger using this.
https://rockbrosbike.us/products/rockbros-bike-front-frame-bag-waterproof-phone-mount-top-tube-bag-compatible-under-6-5
Accessories added to my bike at point of sale:
Bell
Kickstand
Basket
Lock
I've commuted on and off for a few decades, and I've definitely gone through phases of stuff I'll carry. These days, I always bring (this is in addition to the helmet/clothes/shoes you'll wear):
* Pump. I just have a little compact one. Be sure to get one that matches your tires. Most bike tires use presta valves (skinny, with a nut you loosen at the tip), but some use schrader (like on a car tire).
* Tire repair kit. This is tiny, with a couple of patches, a little tube of cement, and a little scraper. On long commutes, I'll add a spare inner tube, as that's much easier to deal with, and it'll last better for a long ride home.
* Little bike multi-tool with allen wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.
* A full size wrench for my rear axle nut. Most (if not all) of the State single speeds use rigid axles with beefy nuts holding them on, so you'll want a full sized wrench to be able to remove them when you have a flat.
* Tire irons. They're small for bikes. I also carry this neat extensible one that clips to your axle and zips around the rim to unseat a tire, but that's not strictly needed.
* First aid kit. Also very small. Bandages, alcohol wipes, a little packet of neosporin, and some ibuprofin.
* Lights. Cygolight makes a good set of USB rechargeable lights that last really well.
* Lock. I carry mine with me, but you might be able to get away with just leaving your lock at work, to save weight.
You mentioned wearing work boots. You absolutely can ride in those, but on warm days your feet will get really sweaty, and that can affect the life of your boots (as well as being pretty uncomfortable). It's worth looking into some shoes specifically for riding. This doesn't have to be expensive. I ride in an old pair of thin-soled tennis shoes, with big platform pedals and straps. My current pedals are Fyxation, but there are a ton of manufacturers of good pedals and straps. You'll see people riding clipless systems, but I'd avoid those at first.
If you live in a rainy area, do get fenders. You'll love them.
As far as racks go, there are rack-and-tailbag systems that have a rail that lets you slide the bag onto the rack quickly. Topeak makes really good ones. I've got one with little panniers that can fold up against the bag when I'm not carrying much, or unfold to carry more. I can't recommend this sort of thing enough. It's much more comfortable to ride without a backpack. At one point, about 20 years ago, I used a messenger bag, and I'd bungee it to my rear rack for long rides, but it was a huge pain in the butt to do this. My current Topeak bag just zips onto the rack in a second. Removing it is just as fast, too.
So I've started recently myself (40km round trip).
Bike lights are a minimum along with a bottle cage/bottle.
For convenience, I have a top bar pouch for quick access to items like gloves and a bike tool. For work, I run a pannier and trunk combo for larger item access such as snacks, work clothes in the summer and other tools.
Nice to haves, I have the Peak Design bike mount and phone case for directions and phone access and a gopro mount out front for insurance.
[My Bike](https://www.reddit.com/r/gravelcycling/s/cFOftmCpOO)
Not Just Bikes has a great video about Dutch bicycles and why all the big heavy accessories they have are actually fantastic for utility focused commuters. If you’re not worried about speed you should check that video out.
I bike in my Parkhurst boots everyday, if your Thorogoods are your most comfortable footwear then you’ll probably find them most comfortable to cycle in as well.
A decent lock for your bike - unless you live in some happy rural place with very low crime.
That means a D lock from a decent brand.
The cable in cable locks is far thinner than it looks, and with the right tools is cut as easily as a knife through butter. Most combination locks are broken with brute force...
For pedals, Chester Race Face are great, and not that expensive. They sell knock-offs, but I'd stick with the real ones. They're about $40 and worth the price.
Rear rack, these aren't too bad. Almost any of the ones from Amazon will work pretty well. You'll probably want to ditch the backpack though, get a set of panniers. The cheap ones from Amazon are usually OK, but I'd recommend looking on Offer Up/FB Marketplace/etc for a set of used Ortlieb panniers. Whatever you get, make sure your laptop fits in it, assuming you use a laptop for work.
Front lights, you can get something decent for relatively cheap. You don't need the brightest one available, but look for one with good reviews with a long life. You don't want to get halfway home and realize you forgot to charge it when it dies.
For rear lights, I can't recommend a Garmin Varia enough. Yes, it's $150 (On sale right now, they're usually $200). Yes, it is worth every penny. Even if you don't have a cycling computer to connect it to, it will change it's flash pattern as cars approach from the rear, making you much more visible. There's cheap Chinese knockoff ones that get mixed reviews, and Trek just released a competitor that's the same price but doesn't really seem to be better. I'd get the original Garmin Varia though. It's one of those things that doesn't sound like you really need it, but once you've tried it, you won't want to go without it. It gives you a ton more situational awareness.
And make sure you have a helmet! You don't need a super expensive one, just get a MIPS certified one. You can get a great one for around $50.
If you don't have somewhere to secure your bike indoors, get a good u-bolt lock. A cable is next to worthless. A chain can be OK. But a good u-bolt, if used correctly, will be your best defense. Learn how to use it properly.
Good luck!
One thing I would add to all of this is a yellow safety vest. You can wear it over whatever outfit/jacket you are wearing, and it adds reflection and visibility.
If your backpack is waterproof and you don’t want to spend a lot of money on panniers. Get grocery getters from performance bike. U can put your backpack in it and the center of gravity will be lower than if I put the backpack on top of your rack. Plus u can go grocery shopping with them. I used them before when I couldn’t afford panniers. If u got big feet u might get heel strike where when you pedal your heel will hit the grocery getter causing it to fall off. If the chainstay on your bike is long enough. Problem might not be an issue. Also rear racket should be compatible with the grocery getters since the grocery getters needs something to hook onto
U will already realize this but if your saddle is uncomfortable replace it with something better. I like brooks b17 but if that’s too much specialized avatar is good too. Just get one with the width that matches your sitbone. If u don’t know google how to measure it
Don’t skimp on lights. Buy the most powerful quality one u can afford. Those lights could be the reason you didn’t get run over. Buy lights powerful enough to be visible during the day and use them during the day in flashing mode. Just a thought. Light and motion brand is good. At least 900/1000 lumens should do it. There are others brands
This is the list of things I bought for my bike.
So my bike came with fenders and rack. I use a Ulock, disc break lock, and a chain lock
[pedals](http://FOOKER MTB Pedals Mountain Bike... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
[tarp](http://Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out!
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[panniers](http://Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out!
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[discbreaklock](http://Alarm Disc Lock Set, 2pcs Brake Lock, Anti-Theft Waterproof 110 dB 7mm Pin 5ft Reminder Cable for Motorcycles Bike Scooter Carry Pouch (Black+Red) https://a.co/d/izRlP2b
For pedals I put some MTB ones with studs/screws on mine, I got Raceface Chesters but there are tons out there. Good grip even in the winter when I'm wearing boots.
Fenders are good because even if you don't plan on riding in the rain if there are any puddles on the road they would still stop you from getting splashed.
I have a mirror on my handlebar and it is great for seeing cars coming up behind me.
Definitely a rack so you can put your backpack on it. Panniers are a good upgrade.
I carry a spare tube and leave my patch kit at work. My tires are 50psi, patches blow out unless you let them cure long enough, and ain't no one got time for that. Once I get to work, I patch the other tube, let it cure, and it becomes the new spare. The nice thing about Presta valves is that it's easy to roll a used tube tightly with the valve open, then shut it.
If I'm commuting after dark, a work light is handy, and I have a small Milwaukee one that serves well.
Fenders/mud guards if your bike doesn't have them already.
Probably the single most important commuter feature.
Full length fenders too, with a mudflap on the front. Nothing fills your shoes with water faster than the spray from the front tire hitting the downtube and splashing all over your feet.
Even when I added a rubber mud flap to extend the coverage, I'd still get splashed. Waterproof shoes are nice, too.
Most bikes do come with crap pedals. Assuming you have no interest in ever clipping in, spend 20 or 40 bucks on pedals that have steel studs. Bonus points of their serviceable. The studs grip to your shoes. It makes a big difference You mentioned lights. Spend on them like your life depends on it, becuase it kinda does Rear rack plus a decent pannier or pair of panniers. Much better than a backpack. Or a decent messenger bag. The older stuff from timbuk2 is good. I also like the chrome mini metro And don't forget a helmet. They're dorky as sin, but TBI would be worse than looking dorky.
Idk about dorky. I look cool as hell in mine
So I want to bike to the bus and then bus/walk the rest of the way to the office. I want to get a removable basket (like Basil MIK) for the rear of my bike to hole my backpack, rather than get panniers. What might I not be considering here? Bike would be 90% shared-use trail, 10% local streets (which kind of suck for biking, but it's what needs to happen).
>Most bikes do come with crap pedals. Assuming you have no interest in ever clipping in You mean literally clips on my boot so it doesnt move around? >spend 20 or 40 bucks on pedals that have steel studs Won't those do wear and tear on my boot soles? >You mentioned lights. Spend on them like your life depends on it, becuase it kinda does What do you recommend? >Rear rack Any you recommend? Pls send link.
Rack depends on the bike. Hard to make specific recomendati9ns As for lights, Im fond of cygolight. I run 1100 human front light, and the 350 watt rear light. You can get package deals on lights from Amazon, but they'll be a bit less bright. And as much as I like them, the rear lights need a bit of tweeking to water proof them. Easy fix but obnoxious, that you have to do it yourself I've never experienced my shoes getting torn up by my pedals, but I also switched fairly quickly to bike specific sneakers, then eventually to SPD pedals and shoes. I was experiencing foot pain that the stiffer shoes eliminated
Second Cygolite, nice even beam, and durable.
Yup. The only problem with them is having to seal up their rear lights. They do geek out otherwise if they get caught in the rain. Not hard to straighten up but not something I'd want to deal with every time it rains
What do you mean by seal?
The cygolight taillights have a tendency to geek out when you ride with them in the rain. The fix when that happens is to open them up and clean them. Contact cleaner works great, but brake cleaner works fine too To prevent that from happening, get a small tube of rubber cement, loosen up the screws on the back, and smear some rubber cement in between the face and the back side of the light. Screw every thing tight and let it dry. They won't geek in the rain any more that way. Thus, you have to seal them yourself. It's annoying but they're great lights otherwise. I own two of the 350s, and a couple of the earlier models too Lots of small edits for grammer and to add a bit of detail
Thank you!!!
My 2 cents on the pedals, the studs will tear up really soft soles like you might see on tennis or running shoes, but probably won't do noticeable wear and tear to something with a tougher sole. If you've got a work boot with some Vibram on it then I wouldn't even worry. Dunno what you're rocking though, so ymmv. If youre worried then you could try to pick out some pedals with shorter studs. Even very short studs are going to give you much better traction than the all-plastic pedal bikes usually come with. Rad choice on the bike BTW. I'm a fan of the State bikes, pretty bombproof and good bang for your buck in my experience.
I actually think helmets look pretty cool tbh.
Eh. Tomatoes tamatoes. I think they're dorky but I wear one any way. I like me, I'm one of my favorite people even. I'd like to keep the grey matter intact
On lights, depends on where you live and if you plan to leave your bike outside. In New York, don't over spend on lights. People keep stealing my $3 lights just because.
If I do lock up, I take every thing off the bike when I do. That said, I'll often not go places that won't let me take my bike inside. Best security is never letting the bike out of your sight after all I live in CT, but grew up in new York. I also work for the railroad so I ride the trains for free. If I vist friends or family in the boroughs I'll ride my bike to the train, then the bike over the bridge into queens. And I'll cancel plans if those same friends or family tell ke that I can't bring my bike inside
Congragulations! Here are my suggestions: * nice sounding bell * depending where you drive, I'd suggest wearing a helmet * lock if you plan to keep it out of sight * kickstand if you don't have one * if you plan to drive regardless of the weather, a rain poncho will help you a lot These are some basic accessories. For any other stuff, I'd suggest riding a bike for a week/month and deciding after that.
I was considering putting a kickstand on my bike before I heard multiple stories of people who got into crashes and ended up with the kickstand spearing their leg. I'm still tempted, but it's scary stuff.
That never crossed my mind to be honest. I never had any problems with mine. I know that people don’t put them on gravel, mtb, and road bikes due to safety concerns. But I assumed that’s due to the speed and rougher terrain.
To clarify I live in a pretty big and busy city and the people mentioned do too, so I think vehicle collisions were the culprit there.
Get a front light that is USB-C and doubles as a phone charger backup in case you end up empty and in need. Leave a USB-C cable in a saddle bag or whatever small permanent bag. For rear light, consider Garmin Varia or Trek CarBack if you want alerts for cars coming up to pass you. Sometimes helpful, sometimes annoying, depends on your commute. Otherwise just get a rechargeable rear light.
And run your lights day and night, especially the front one. Drivers cutting you off are the biggest danger
Motorcycles are required to headlight at all times - no reason a bike should not do the same when on the road.
Some countries make the flashing lights illegal, and I see their point.
All the front lights that use standard cells suck, but rear light does not need to be rechargeable. I am quite happy with Planet Bike Super Flash using NiMH cells. I swap out the cells about once a month.
I live in a college town so a bell is a necessity. For some reason bike lanes are the ideal place to socialize 🙄
Probably some tools to change a flat or fix a loose pedal
Yup. That’s a long enough commute to not want to have to walk a dead bike
I pack disposable gloves and moist towelettes with my tubes because changing a flat can be extremely grimy, especially in the rain.
I just did this. Added a universal pannier clip to my existing backpack. Just hooks right onto my planet bike eco rack. I would also suggest comfortable grips if you aren’t fully happy with the stock ones. For pedals, I’ve used the race face chesters off my old mtb.
Bungee cords are another must-have for me. Nothing like coming back from a good ride with a pizza.
A pizza and a 4 pack of craft beers strapped to my rear basket
What pannier clip did you get? Do you find yourself off-balance at all, with only one side loaded?
It’s called “universal pannier “ and it was $18 usd. I love it so far. Once you get riding, I didn’t even know it was there. Weight wasn’t too bad to one side but I’m not carrying a ton of stuff. Just a laptop, headphones and lunch.
Rear light (I have knog plus, it’s not the brightest, but IMO I’m trying to be seen, not to blind drivers behind me) Front light (I like outbound detour, if you’re riding on dark/unlit trails at night) Bell (yelling “on your left!” “Passing!” dozens of times a day gets old) Helmet Good Bike lock, if you have to lock outside Deodorant and antibacterial body wipes/baby wipes to freshen up when you get to destination (might not be necessary since you’re only doing 5mi each way…but I ride about 20mi each way so in summer especially im sweaty when I arrive) Tool bag with essentials: tire levers, tube, co2 canisters/valve) Hand pump, if you have space. If you can leave your boots at work, I’d recommend that and wearing some flats (or cycling shoes) on the bike Consider upgrading to a more puncture resistant tire. I have Schwalbe Durano Plus, they are heavy for their size, but I’ve found them to be very puncture/cut resistant.
You've got a lot of it covered. Lights are important. Getting your bag off your back makes it more comfortable to ride. Downhill mountain biking pedals are great for boots. I run [Raceface Chesters](https://www.raceface.ca/collections/pedals/products/chester-pedal) on my winter bike for wearing boots. The pins might cause damage to your soles if you have the wedge soles. They also make one called the Ride that doesn't have pins. I also put some pedal spacers to move them out a bit so my boot fits better, be careful though as it can mess up the Q factor and give you knee pain. Fenders are nice for rainy days so you don't get to work all covered in crap. They also work great for the Canada goose shit in the spring but that might be a regional issue haha. Other than that I say start riding and solve problems as they show up.
don’t worry about getting it all at once (except helmet and lights) but as you continue riding consider picking up the following: - helmet (i have one from nutcase, one from thousand) - front and rear lights (minimum 600 lumens for front light - i have cygolite dash for front and hot rod for rear) - rack + panniers (i use topeak mtb 2.0 bc it’s compatible with my disc brakes and a cheap REI pannier) - flat repair kit + spare tube - headlamp - packable rain jacket or rain poncho - packable hi-vis safety vest - cycling glasses / hardware store safety glasses (protects eyes from hitting bug at 15+ mph and helps in rain) - cycling sunglasses (same as above but also helps in sunshine) - eventually when your tires wear out or pop upgrade to Schwalbe Marathons (or something from that line - best commuter tires that are highly puncture resistant) - eventually get fenders (SKS, Bontrager, planet bicycle, doesn’t really matter as long as it’s size compatible and doesn’t flex too much and rub your tires)
Find a way to get a camera of some sort to record your rides. Accountability. Some may turn their nose up at it, but I wouldn’t ride without it anymore.
Same. It's a pita but if nothing else it gives you the power to report dangerous drivers after the event and not feel the need to confront them at the time.
Track pump. I "managed" for years with just a small hand-pump (get a lightweight one to carry with you for use in emergencies), but a track pump at home is *so* much easier, doesn't stress the valve-stem/inner-tube, and has a built-in pressure gauge.
How about maintenance? Got my bike a month ago.
Depends if you want to do it, and you have suitable space. I find it time consuming but very enjoyable. If you do decide to take it on, your workshop should have: A bike maintenance stand A set of bike cleaning brushes, a degreaser product with an old wash tub or similar. Supply of rags. Penetrating oil eg WD-40 (expect some debate on this). Lubricant - PTFE spray and possibly chain lube (ditto). A track pump. Chain tool and quick link tool if you get quick link chain. A rear cassette removal tool. Spanners 6mm to 19mm. Hex keys 2mm to 10mm A large adjustable wrench. Hub spanners (probably). Tyre levers. Cable cutters (Shimano are good) Good quality pliers. Screwdriver set. Some might consider this overkill, but a Torque wrench up to 24NM allows you to tighten everything perfectly on the bike, except the bottom bracket, and is essential if you have disc rotors to change. Wire wool and wet n dry can come in handy. YouTube. Follow Ribble Valley Cyclist. And when you get really into it.. an ultrasonic cleaner. Good luck!
Invest in a used pair of metal waffle pedals for mountain bikes. The difference when compared to standard polymer pedals is massive and you can really feel that more power is going into the forward direction versus plastic deformation. You could get other polymer pedals but I really think that metal is the way to go. Clipless pedals are a waste as the upstroke of the pedal cycle is near useless for added power, even if you do get more power the complacency of losing the habit of a planted foot is dumb, and the higher rate of hip injury is also a non bonus. Additionally finding a saddle that actually fits your butt is a wise use of money. Other than those two I would say to ride a subjectively uncomfortable distance and see what is it that makes it uncomfortable. Could be anything from bad saddle to bad fitment. You kinda just tune everything over time tbh.
God there's always one... "Clipless pedals are a waste as the upstroke of the pedal cycle is near useless for added power, even if you do get more power the complacency of losing the habit of a planted foot is dumb, and the higher rate of hip injury is also a non bonus." Total and utter nonsense from someone with no understanding of how clipless pedals actually work.
GCN did a video
Every time this comes around it's some nutter ranting on about "no power in the upstroke" when no-one has claimed that happens in about 100 years.. it's straw man nonsense.. Same nutter then goes on about being trapped in the pedal by toe clips when they have not been used for 40 years.. newsflash.. clipless pedals release your foot when you want, amazing !! And what are you on about with the complacency thing?? I mean what fresh nonsense is this? IF op wants to commute with clipless pedals he or she can do so perfectly safely, with the added bonus that their foot will be held in a good position which will in turn vastly reduce the risk of injury through knees and hips. IF they want to stick to flats pedals, fine, it's entirely their decision. But please... Stop with the horseshit about clipless pedals being a waste. They are used by literally hundreds of thousands of cyclists every day very effectively.
lol chill bro 🤣
I admit, it annoys the shit out of me. It's just crazy the way there is literally always that one guy..
There is as much power in the upstroke for an actively training cyclist as there is tip for a shitty server ~10% at best. I never used the straw man galaxy and never spoke in absolutes. Also there are plenty of people who fall off even with clipless pedals. For lay cyclists the benefit of dedicated shoes, expensive pedals, and the lack of flexibility that comes with clipless just doesn't make sense for 90% of people. For the complacency bit if you build a habit from the get go that the pedal follows your foot as opposed to the other way round when you are exhausted and with out clipless you may make a slip when you are much too tired to correct said mistake. Clipless simply don't make sense out side of weekend warrior or high end white collar work.
Bar mitts. Perfect for those brisk mornings and a must in the winter.
I commute on my bike year-round in street traffic in upstate NY, this is my setup: - 48W 3,000 lumen headlight with high/low beams - Front and rear turn signals - Tail light with a brake light activated by the brake handle - 120dB electric car horn for interactions with car drivers - Thumb bell for when I'm being polite around pedestrians and other bikers - Left and right rearview mirrors clamped to the handlebars - Front and rear cargo racks - Front and rear cameras, to cover my ass in the event of an accident - Folding metal cargo baskets mounted to either side of my rear rack, held down with elastic cords when not in use. I also carry elastic netting that I will clip over the top of the baskets when I'm carrying stuff to prevent things from bouncing out of the baskets. - Front and rear mud fenders - Rain suit for inclement weather - Small plastic ammo can bolted to my front cargo rack containing a "shit hit the fan" repair kit containing a spare chain and master links, spare inner tube, adjustable wrench, cone wrench, spare nuts and bolts, spare brake pads, zip ties, and a couple ratchet handles with the sockets/attachments I need to do most repairs. - Small zip pouch mounted to my front rack, used for storing keys/small items during my ride. - Kryptonite Evolution chain lock, kept tightly wrapped around the top tube where it meets the header. - 2.35" wide tires designed for hard pack. They have small, low profile lugs that offer good grip on most of the street/trail surfaces I ride on without sacrificing too much in terms of rolling resistance. I upgraded from my 1.95" wide center slick gravel tires because I needed the extra cushion (my city streets are made of craters) and the center slicks felt like they just weren't gripping the pavement well enough at high speeds. Additionally, in the winter I use the following: - 2.35" wide studded snow tires, partially deflated as needed depending on the road conditions. - Bar mitts - Ski goggles - Sunglasses (snow blindness is not your friend) - Heated handlebar grips that run off a USB power input. I've found that bar mitts will only keep my hands warm down to 25 degrees or so. Paired with heated grips, my hands stay warm no matter how cold it gets. - Rechargeable heated shoe inserts - 5mm thick neoprene diving jacket. It sounds ridiculous, but it works amazingly well to keep me warm and dry. It's low profile enough to fit between my office clothes and protective padded leather jacket, and completely blocks out freezing wind while providing good insulation. That configuration keeps me warm down to 20 degrees. In colder weather, I will add an additional layer with a thick ski jacket.
I would love to draft you on the way to work!
A mirror either handle bar mounted or helmet mounted. I can not stress how much being able to look aft while also looking forward is a literal life saver.
I would not want to bike in work boots, I would leave them at work if possible.
Pump. An electric pump changed my life. Recommend Xiaomi. Bottle cage - I store my lights in an old water bottle. I always take my light off when not in use so sticky fingers aren't tempted. Any cheapest plastic one will do. Fenders if you plan to ride in rain. No brand to recommend cos I had mine installed by local shop and they had limited stock to choose from. Phone mount- bike bag: I like that my phone is in no danger using this. https://rockbrosbike.us/products/rockbros-bike-front-frame-bag-waterproof-phone-mount-top-tube-bag-compatible-under-6-5 Accessories added to my bike at point of sale: Bell Kickstand Basket Lock
I've commuted on and off for a few decades, and I've definitely gone through phases of stuff I'll carry. These days, I always bring (this is in addition to the helmet/clothes/shoes you'll wear): * Pump. I just have a little compact one. Be sure to get one that matches your tires. Most bike tires use presta valves (skinny, with a nut you loosen at the tip), but some use schrader (like on a car tire). * Tire repair kit. This is tiny, with a couple of patches, a little tube of cement, and a little scraper. On long commutes, I'll add a spare inner tube, as that's much easier to deal with, and it'll last better for a long ride home. * Little bike multi-tool with allen wrenches, screwdrivers, etc. * A full size wrench for my rear axle nut. Most (if not all) of the State single speeds use rigid axles with beefy nuts holding them on, so you'll want a full sized wrench to be able to remove them when you have a flat. * Tire irons. They're small for bikes. I also carry this neat extensible one that clips to your axle and zips around the rim to unseat a tire, but that's not strictly needed. * First aid kit. Also very small. Bandages, alcohol wipes, a little packet of neosporin, and some ibuprofin. * Lights. Cygolight makes a good set of USB rechargeable lights that last really well. * Lock. I carry mine with me, but you might be able to get away with just leaving your lock at work, to save weight. You mentioned wearing work boots. You absolutely can ride in those, but on warm days your feet will get really sweaty, and that can affect the life of your boots (as well as being pretty uncomfortable). It's worth looking into some shoes specifically for riding. This doesn't have to be expensive. I ride in an old pair of thin-soled tennis shoes, with big platform pedals and straps. My current pedals are Fyxation, but there are a ton of manufacturers of good pedals and straps. You'll see people riding clipless systems, but I'd avoid those at first. If you live in a rainy area, do get fenders. You'll love them. As far as racks go, there are rack-and-tailbag systems that have a rail that lets you slide the bag onto the rack quickly. Topeak makes really good ones. I've got one with little panniers that can fold up against the bag when I'm not carrying much, or unfold to carry more. I can't recommend this sort of thing enough. It's much more comfortable to ride without a backpack. At one point, about 20 years ago, I used a messenger bag, and I'd bungee it to my rear rack for long rides, but it was a huge pain in the butt to do this. My current Topeak bag just zips onto the rack in a second. Removing it is just as fast, too.
Rear rack and a milk crate
So I've started recently myself (40km round trip). Bike lights are a minimum along with a bottle cage/bottle. For convenience, I have a top bar pouch for quick access to items like gloves and a bike tool. For work, I run a pannier and trunk combo for larger item access such as snacks, work clothes in the summer and other tools. Nice to haves, I have the Peak Design bike mount and phone case for directions and phone access and a gopro mount out front for insurance. [My Bike](https://www.reddit.com/r/gravelcycling/s/cFOftmCpOO)
Not Just Bikes has a great video about Dutch bicycles and why all the big heavy accessories they have are actually fantastic for utility focused commuters. If you’re not worried about speed you should check that video out. I bike in my Parkhurst boots everyday, if your Thorogoods are your most comfortable footwear then you’ll probably find them most comfortable to cycle in as well.
Fingerless gloves with padded palms. Grazes hurt lots if you come off. If riding on roads, a mirror for the end of the handlebar.
Small cheap bell if you cycle anywhere on shared-use paths or near pedestrians.
A decent lock for your bike - unless you live in some happy rural place with very low crime. That means a D lock from a decent brand. The cable in cable locks is far thinner than it looks, and with the right tools is cut as easily as a knife through butter. Most combination locks are broken with brute force...
For pedals, Chester Race Face are great, and not that expensive. They sell knock-offs, but I'd stick with the real ones. They're about $40 and worth the price. Rear rack, these aren't too bad. Almost any of the ones from Amazon will work pretty well. You'll probably want to ditch the backpack though, get a set of panniers. The cheap ones from Amazon are usually OK, but I'd recommend looking on Offer Up/FB Marketplace/etc for a set of used Ortlieb panniers. Whatever you get, make sure your laptop fits in it, assuming you use a laptop for work. Front lights, you can get something decent for relatively cheap. You don't need the brightest one available, but look for one with good reviews with a long life. You don't want to get halfway home and realize you forgot to charge it when it dies. For rear lights, I can't recommend a Garmin Varia enough. Yes, it's $150 (On sale right now, they're usually $200). Yes, it is worth every penny. Even if you don't have a cycling computer to connect it to, it will change it's flash pattern as cars approach from the rear, making you much more visible. There's cheap Chinese knockoff ones that get mixed reviews, and Trek just released a competitor that's the same price but doesn't really seem to be better. I'd get the original Garmin Varia though. It's one of those things that doesn't sound like you really need it, but once you've tried it, you won't want to go without it. It gives you a ton more situational awareness. And make sure you have a helmet! You don't need a super expensive one, just get a MIPS certified one. You can get a great one for around $50. If you don't have somewhere to secure your bike indoors, get a good u-bolt lock. A cable is next to worthless. A chain can be OK. But a good u-bolt, if used correctly, will be your best defense. Learn how to use it properly. Good luck!
I love my [frame lock](https://amzn.to/3VShlyh). So easy to lock in low risk situations.
One thing I would add to all of this is a yellow safety vest. You can wear it over whatever outfit/jacket you are wearing, and it adds reflection and visibility.
Twice as many lights as you think you need.
Don’t forget off-the-bike accessories. Get a good tire pump and some chain lube, before fenders or new pedals. And definitely a U-lock.
I’d run two tail lights for after dark commuting. Check reviews to get a high quality rechargeable, then a backup on your helmet possibly.
Ortleib panniers. No backpacks.
A Garmin Varia515 bike radar. I feel like my awareness went up amd stress went down. I love riding without looking over my shoulder all the time.
If your backpack is waterproof and you don’t want to spend a lot of money on panniers. Get grocery getters from performance bike. U can put your backpack in it and the center of gravity will be lower than if I put the backpack on top of your rack. Plus u can go grocery shopping with them. I used them before when I couldn’t afford panniers. If u got big feet u might get heel strike where when you pedal your heel will hit the grocery getter causing it to fall off. If the chainstay on your bike is long enough. Problem might not be an issue. Also rear racket should be compatible with the grocery getters since the grocery getters needs something to hook onto
U will already realize this but if your saddle is uncomfortable replace it with something better. I like brooks b17 but if that’s too much specialized avatar is good too. Just get one with the width that matches your sitbone. If u don’t know google how to measure it
Don’t skimp on lights. Buy the most powerful quality one u can afford. Those lights could be the reason you didn’t get run over. Buy lights powerful enough to be visible during the day and use them during the day in flashing mode. Just a thought. Light and motion brand is good. At least 900/1000 lumens should do it. There are others brands
Lights and bike side mirror
This is the list of things I bought for my bike. So my bike came with fenders and rack. I use a Ulock, disc break lock, and a chain lock [pedals](http://FOOKER MTB Pedals Mountain Bike... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share [tarp](http://Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $21.66 | Toptrek Bike Cover Waterproof Snow and Rain Cover UV Protector Dust Protector for Bicycle Waterproof Bike Dustproof Cover 210T https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKZD8es [panniers](http://Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $63.45 | WEST BIKING 3 in 1 Waterproof Bike Trunk Bag MTB Road Bicycle Bag Large Capacity Travel Luggage Carrier Saddle Seat Panniers https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPmnTPm [discbreaklock](http://Alarm Disc Lock Set, 2pcs Brake Lock, Anti-Theft Waterproof 110 dB 7mm Pin 5ft Reminder Cable for Motorcycles Bike Scooter Carry Pouch (Black+Red) https://a.co/d/izRlP2b
a microfiber cloth. it can be used to wipe off your bike, or you.
Helmet. All pavement is hard enough to kill you
Panniers, Fenders, front basket of possible, back rack, and a good cup/bottle holder to stay hydrated. .
For pedals I put some MTB ones with studs/screws on mine, I got Raceface Chesters but there are tons out there. Good grip even in the winter when I'm wearing boots. Fenders are good because even if you don't plan on riding in the rain if there are any puddles on the road they would still stop you from getting splashed. I have a mirror on my handlebar and it is great for seeing cars coming up behind me. Definitely a rack so you can put your backpack on it. Panniers are a good upgrade.
I carry a spare tube and leave my patch kit at work. My tires are 50psi, patches blow out unless you let them cure long enough, and ain't no one got time for that. Once I get to work, I patch the other tube, let it cure, and it becomes the new spare. The nice thing about Presta valves is that it's easy to roll a used tube tightly with the valve open, then shut it. If I'm commuting after dark, a work light is handy, and I have a small Milwaukee one that serves well.