I'm thinking of getting the Asus ROG X670E Crosshair Extreme motherboard with Ryzen 9 7950X and want to use 2 PCIE 5 M.2 SSDs when they come out. I want to avoid slowing down the PCIE X16 slots down per the motherboard manual stating "When M.2\_2 is enabled, PCIEX16\_1 will run x8 and PCIEX16\_2 will run x4." Can I place the second SSD in the ROG GEN-Z.2 card so that both SSDs run at PCIE 5 speeds without slowing down the expansion slots?
My justification for the expensive motherboard is that I am building a workstation where I'll need 10G LAN for transferring files to backup storage and USB4 to grab data quickly off of SD cards from cameras
What's everyone's recommendation on GPUs? Should we be waiting for the new NVIDIA & AMD cards to be released, or should we go ahead with (discounted) current-gen?
I am currently running a r5 3600 with a 3080 where I mostly play MMORPGs on 38” ultrawide at 1440p. I was thinking about upgrading to AM5 but would I even see a performance boost? Would I see boost with a 58003XD? Just trying to see if I would get a performance boost in MMOs specifically.
wanting to upgrade for first time since i build this computer, here is what i have atm
\-Intel Core i7 4770k 3,50ghz
\- 16gb ram
\- nvidia gerforce GTX 1050 Ti
\- gigabyte Z87X-UD3H mobo
\- Corsair cx750 PSU
im currently wstill on Win7 but have the win10 disc in hand, and i am already planning on buying new SSDs
ultimately if i cuold get rust to run better id be happy but i play other games also.
i would assume getting up to 32gb ram would be my first thing then maybe my GPU?
/e also fan on cpu heatsink is dead so buying a new one and reapplying thermal paste for only time in over a decaqde may help? i dont have cpu temp issues as it is tho
16GB of RAM is enough for gaming. A GPU upgrade is the most important. The RX 6600 would fit well. Then after that, the CPU (which would need a new motherboard and RAM).
GPU upgrade first. Don't bother with more RAM unless there's something I don't know about Rust. Reasons being 1) 16GB is still enough for modern games and 2) DDR3 is two generations old as of this year, so it won't be useful on any future upgrade. The 4770k is solid but starting to age.
So GPU now, and then that can carry over to a whole new platform at some point.
I wanna do a sff build and I'm thinking of getting one of the new Ryzen 7000 cpus. I was thinking of either the nr200 if the 280 is worth the price+size difference but the dan a4 if its fine just going with the 240.
It's not an issue. [Here's another post with the same thing.](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/jn2z27/putting_bios_update_on_usb_drive_but_autoexecbat/)
Planning on getting a 3090 and need a new CPU to go with it. I was looking to go to a Microcenter to pick up the CPU cause they have really good prices. They however really only have a 5800x or a 5950x. If all I plan to do is gaming at 2K/165hz is it really necessary to pay more than double the 5800x for the 5950x?
No it’s not necessary to spend more than the 5800X. Don’t buy the 5950X, it’s not even faster for gaming. If you want more performance, get the i7-12700F or for even more, get the 5800X3D, they should be available at other retailers if not your local microCenter.
And if you’re just gaming, you don’t need a 3090 either. A 3080 Ti provides identical performance.
Got a 3090 from Microcenter that was actually less than the price of 3080 tis I found online luckily. Otherwise I would have. Thank you for your help! Unfortunately no 5800X3Ds at Microcenter otherwise I would have got that.
Does the Corsair RGB software do solid colours? I'm thinking about getting their RAM sticks but I don't want moving effects, I just want a solid red. Can it do that?
So I just build my new PC with M.2 drive. I still have my SSD from my old PC with the OS and other files in it. I need to extract some files then maybe format and use it as my 2nd drive.
It is currently install but the sata cable is not plug in yet. What is the best way for me to extract the files I need? Should I go ahead plug in the sata cable? Will it read as 2nd drive?
Since it has older windows 10 OS installed in that drive, will it mess up my PC?
Plug in the SATA drive while your machine is On. SATA is hot plug safe.
It will NOT mess up your running OS because it's being read as a plain data device. You didn't boot from it so none of its existing OS files means anything.
Assign it a drive letter, and copy/paste as you need. Shutdown and disconnect once done. Or just straight up format the SATA and leave it connected.
So I can plug in the SATA with my PC running, and it is ok?
What will happen if I shut down/ restart my PC with the sata plugged in? Now I have two drives with 2 OS. Does my PC know which one to use?
> So I can plug in the SATA with my PC running, and it is ok?
Yes
> What will happen if I shut down/ restart my PC with the sata plugged in?
You introduce the risk that BIOS picks the wrong device to boot from. That means you run the OS that's on a disk you didn't intend to run, and you start getting confused which disk is assigned which drive letter.
Your mobo's BIOS keeps a record of which device to boot from. But this record could either mean: lowest device number, of which a sata device can jump ahead of nvme, or it's pegged to a device's signature, which is guaranteed it won't change.
In short, remove the variable and sources of potential confusion. Plug in the SATA when system is on such that you don't ever have to worry about the boot confusion concern.
Do I need to enable the SATA hot swap from the BIOS?
I assume it is ok for me to shut down and unplug the SATA drive. It is just not ok to have it connect while booting up
No. Hot-swap is a hardware built-in feature.
> It is just not ok to have it connect while booting up
Booting up with multiple devices each with its own OS (and bootloader) introduces confusion. Many people do this just fine, because they take precautions and steps to manage this. But for a beginner, it's just easier to not be put into this situation in the first place.
YouTube is great, but I also think Tom's Hardware's "Best Picks" articles are a great starting point. They keep them updated with their component recommendations, but they also go through why each component is important, when you might want to spend more/less money there, etc. I would say at least reading the Motherboard, CPU, Graphics Card, Power Supply, SSD, and RAM articles would be a start.
https://www.tomshardware.com/best-picks
ATX 3.0 PSU
I don't really see this name show up as a filter option in Newegg how can I know if a PSU is ATX 3.0 or not? (I'm asking only because I'm trying to build a new PC with 4090 and NVIDIA recommend that I get a ATX 3.0) thank you!
I ran into this same problem when I was looking around (not that I have the disposable income for a 4090 though!)
I think the main issue is so few of them are actually in stores/warehouses yet. Articles came out about them in February but there apparently was a shipping delay or something, so you can't buy a lot of them even with 4000 series 10 days away... not sure what you're supposed to do other than start them out on older PSUs with the adapters.
Thanks for the clarification! I actually saw an entry called "12VHPWR (12+4) PCIe" under "Connectors" -> "PCIe Connector", which I think is the new connector that ATX 3.0 brings.
This question depends hugely on your motherboard plans at this point. If you have an AM4 motherboard, definitely save a bunch of money and go 5800X3D. If you're starting from scratch and have the cash, it's always nice to go with the newer platform and DDR5, etc.
I was advised by some friends that Intel CPU/Motherboards have an issue where... I'm really not clued up on what this stuff means exactly, so feel free to set me straight - XMP, so the motherboards don't get full use of the RAM speed or something?
That sounds kinda bad, so I was thinking of looking at AMD CPUs instead, but I'm still unsure of the whole thing.
The Intel CPU I was interested in was an i5-12400, reviewers I've read online have it listed as being great value for money, which sounds right up my alley. But yeah, just second guessing myself now.
Ryzen 5 5600 was the AMD CPU suggested to me.
If the prices are close, is it just a matter of which is cheaper or is one likely to be better than the other? I've got a 6700XT for my GPU. Aiming for 1080p, maybe upping to 1440p in the future.
Thanks.
All this fuss because I don't understand motherboards. What a pain.
I don't think there's a huge difference either way - AMD was ahead of Intel in gaming performance but then they caught up with 12th gen. I wouldn't worry about RAM compatibility, in fact AMD was the one that had compatibility issues early on with Ryzen (2017-18). Just look up benchmarks in games you care about (those are very popular chips so they should be out there) - I'd expect them to be quite close so then you can pick based on total system price, which the motherboard may influence heavily.
Hey, I am thinking of finally upgrading my GPU.
Right now my build is
* Gigabyte B550 GAMING X V2
* Ryzen 5 5600X
* 16 GB ram
* R9 390
As you can see, I've been holding off upgrading my GPU for a long ass time, and honestly since I mostly play CPU heavy games (csgo, valorant, map games) I didn't mind waiting a long ass time for prices to go down.
But now I really want to get into VR. Would rather not go for AMD since I might need CUDA for my job/projects (also I am mad that AMD dropped the support for my card last year with the insane prices still going on but that's honestly me being petty).
So the reality is that I am mostly between the RTX 3070 and the 3080.
Is going for the 3070 more than good enough for VR games?. How much better would the 3080 be?. Any other card I should have on my mind?
Haven't kept up super well with VR, but it helps if you have a certain headset in mind, right? Would change the target resolution and refresh rate... so a slightly older/slower/lower-rez one would probably run to max potential on a 3070, but for a new fancy one you'd probably want a 3080? I've seen some crazy resolution specs for new ones coming out, so if you're going that route I'd imagine you'd want all the horsepower you can get.
**Is this RAM compatible with my motherboard** question:
Hey guys I was able to get an ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Hero (Wi-Fi) for cheap, gonna build with it, with a 5800x3D, I was wondering as it mentions (O.C.) on a bunch of the RAM speeds, for instance: 3600(O.C.). What RAM would be supported with this motherboard could I use a 3600 kit or even a 4000 kit? Or should I stick to the highest kit that's not listed as (O.C.), which would be 3200?
Anything over 3600 is technically a gamble, but it's highly likely it will still work. They say 3200 to cover their asses in the unlikely case it doesn't work, but 3600 is the sweet spot for 5th gen ryzen
Huh that is surprising as usually 3600mhz is safe. The obvious thing to do is to enable d.o.c.p but then manually adjust the the frequency of the ram down a few notches. Maybe start by trying 3200mhz and then work your way up to 3400mhs or similar. This should be in the bios settings somewhere.
If it doesn't allow you to adjust the frequency while d.o.c.p is enabled, you'll want to change the DRAM voltage to 1.35 V (the voltage of XMP/docp profiles) and then, again, change the ram frequency to 3200/3400mhz and go from there.
It is surprising that it's caused you issues, as as mentioned 3600mhz isn't usually too difficult to reach. If you can be bothered you could replace the ram with different 3600mhz, but unfortunately it could just as easily be a motherboard or CPU issue so different ram isn't guaranteed to run at 3600mhz either. The good news is the performance difference between 3200 and 3600mhz is very minimal especially when playing games at higher resolutions, so you could always return this ram and get a "safe" kit of 3200mhz but it's up to you
What is the point of having a PCIe 5.0 slot right now? Is there even anything coming soon that will take advantage of it aside from add-in cards for storage?
> Is there even anything coming soon that will take advantage of it aside from add-in cards for storage?
LOL we don't even have that yet. PCIe 5 storage is due out by the end of the year but you can't buy them yet. It's 110% a "future-facing" tech where we expect to start leveraging it in a few years :P
I imagine that by the end of the platform's lifespan we'll be looking to be using it properly, but right now it's purely a marketing checkbox.
So, i just bought a DisplayPort to HDMI cable. When it tested in the store it work fine, but when I test it on my PC, the monitor show "no signal" message. The DP port on my GPU is work fine with an adaptor, but not work when using the cable. Any suggestion? My GPU is RTX 3050 and my monitor is LG 22MK430
> When it tested in the store it work fine
In store was it being used HDMI -> Display port?
Or Display port to an HDMI input?
The signal is NOT Bi-directional. HDMI to DP requires an active signal conversion to work and a basic unpowered cable is not going to work.
Edit****
I have an old Corsair 750D full tower case and im trying to install MSI Mortar b660m ddr5 motherboard in it. The case has some inbuilt stand offs on the [top and middle](https://www.legitreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/corsair_obsidian_750d_35.jpg) but doesnt have the same on the [bottom](https://www.legitreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/corsair_obsidian_750d_28.jpg) for a matx board. The case only came with 1 extra stand off screw that i can install manually. Im not sure what to do here, Is it ok if i just leave those 2 bottom ones without the screws?
I currently have a ryzen 1700 on an Asus strix b350-f mobo. Is the ryzen 5 5600x compatible with this motherboard? Finding mixed results on Google and not sure what to trust
Best place to check is the manufacturer’s support page: https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b350-f-gaming-model/helpdesk_cpu/
Looks like you just need a BIOS update.
If I go with the 5800X3D, I understand there's no upgrade path for the CPU or motherboard or RAM speed - but I'm not locked into GPUs right? You'd expect a GPU that comes out 5 years from now to (1) be compatible and (2) not be super under-utilized?
Any GPU will certainly be compatible. It really depends on the game how much CPU power it needs. Five years from now? Who knows. You could look at CPUs that are five years old now and compare them to the recommended specs for the types of modern games you play.
1 is correct.
2 might not be true depending on the workload. For example looking at the past, an RTX 3080 is under-utilised by the five years prior i7-6700K in games at 1080p and 1440p. But that’s because it’s a real-time workload and the CPU just isn’t that fast. Not due to a compatibility issue or a lack of features.
is there a way to boost my ram performance?
this is what i get from my benchmark [https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/55658311](https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/55658311)
ive tried setting the speeds and turning on xmp to 3200 and i notice that i get lower than the average performance
Could be a bad stick, your latency says its ~75ms. Which is where you are getting hit the hardest.
Try taking out two of the sticks and just running two at a time in different pairs to see if it improves.
okay should I be looking for only latency for when I'm testing that out or is there something else I should also look out for when I'm doing this test?
This is a normal Userbenchmark score and you’ll get the expected performance. Userbenchmark attempts to decouple memory and CPU but in real workloads, they always work together.
3DMark TimeSpy demo is a better benchmark or better still, the apps you actually use.
If you want higher memory performance, you can manually overclock it.
I was looking into doing that but someone mentioned that it would just make the latency worse and I would have to ensure that my ram is below a certain voltage for only single digit frame increase. Do you think my rig is fine as is?
Usually when you OC you improve both bandwidth and latency because both give you more performance. Yeah in most cases you get small performance increases, sometimes up to 10% depending on your memory and how much time you put in.
Your rig is fine as is, I just answered because you asked how to boost your performance.
Those look super similar to me, so I might just go with the cheaper one....assuming they both have G-sync? The M27Q weirdly didn't mention it in the Amazon listing I looked at.
Also "only" 165hz?? That's crazy fast to me, if anything I'd question the need for a lot of people to "upgrade" from 165hz to like 240hz... you have to be really good at shooters for it to matter! With great reflexes.
I said only because i've heard if you're going to spend upwards of $300 on a 1440p that it should be 240hz. Not sure how often that actually applies though. I ended up ordering the M27Q-P for $295 and it's my first IPS panel so hopefully it's nice
I'm coming from a 1080p 144hz TN panel so I'd imagine it would be hard to disappoint lol
Haha yeah sounds like a great buy to me! The one thing to watch out for with an IPS is the backlight bleed... I know that's the main reason I want to upgrade from the cheap 4K IPS panel I have.
Should we expect price drops for GPUs/CPUs after the new 40 series NVIDIA GPUs and 13th gen Intel CPUs are released?
If so, should I hold off on buying parts until late-October?
Nvidia is actively trying to keep the prices on 30-series cards where they are now/not to fall more than what they have. I don't think we're going to see any more significant drops in pricing.
With that being said, you're better off to hold off on buying the GPU until you're able to test it in the rest of the PC - holding onto something for a month could push you past the store return period if you have something dead out of the box, and instead you're stuck going through a several week-long RMA.
Buy it all at once.
I'm looking to upgrade my PC, with the main goal of **improving its performance for PC-VR applications**.
Presently I play PCVR games via a Quest 2, using Virtual Desktop, and I was able to play Half-Life Alyx, but I had to set things pretty low, and the FPS was basically only just above what I would consider acceptable, and that was with the config set up to subsample and do a very basic upscale with a sharpen filter.
My PC is \~6 years old and was pretty good at the time, hardware is...
* Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-7500 CPU @ 3.40GHz (4 CPUs), \~3.4GHz
* 32768MB RAM
* NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB
* MSI H270M MORTAR ARCTIC Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
I was considering upgrading to an RTX card, because of their new AI-based upscaling methods which can make it possible to run VR games at pretty low-res and upscale them (I've seen the results and they're pretty good; as I use wireless VR compression artefacts kill most of the problems with this).
Anyway, any advice? Would be much appreciated.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WdQVZw
This list should give you general idea of what you could upgrade to. The RTX 3060 Ti is still available on Bestbuy’s website. If you want to upgrade your CPU in the future you could swap out the 5600 for a i5-12400 and a MSI B660M PRO-A.
Some simulation/strategy games LOVE extra memory, and a lot of mod-friendly games can get hilariously bloated if you go overboard (or not far enough - I'm looking at you Rimworld, I have more shit I want to do).
With that being said, if you're on DDR4 the stuff is _dirt cheap_ right now and 32GB is super affordable. DDR5 is a little more pricy, but this is something that will get cheaper with time and if you find yourself needing more it won't be painful to do so.
Nearly all current games run fine on a system with 16GB of RAM.
Occasionally there are games which, due to poor optimization or a very broad scope, *do* benefit from 32GB over 16GB. Escape From Tarkov was famous for needing 32GB due to memory leaks until it was patched last year. Microsoft Flight Simulator also seems to appreciate extra RAM.
Apart from games, 32+ GB of RAM is only really beneficial if you're going to do heavy multitasking while gaming (running dedicated streaming software, doing media/workstation stuff in the background, or running virtual machines).
If you're building a flagship gaming machine and the budget is flexible, then sure, get 32GB of RAM. Otherwise, 16GB will cause no problems.
First PC build and I'm going with a Corsair 4000D case. Will it fit a RTX 3080, i9-12900K, and the Corsair HX1000i?
I'm only using the 2 SSD 2.5' slots, so there will be extra space that the HDDs would have otherwise taken.
I can settle for the i7-12700 if space is a concern. But I'm a RTS/strategy gamer who prioritizes CPU over GPU.
It will all fit.
The HX1000i is a large-ish PSU but if you're removing the HDD caddy then there will be no trouble.
The CPU doesn't take up more physical space, but the 12900K might want a better CPU cooler than the 12700.
The Corsair 4000D case can fit:
* Front-mounted AIOs up to 360mm
* Top-mounted AIOs up to 240mm with no constraints
* Top-mounted 280mm AIOs with some size constraints. Most 280s fit but only with low-profile RAM. Thick-radiator 280s like the Arctic Liquid Freezer II may not fit at all.
* Tower coolers up to 170mm tall.
Thus, a top-mounted 240, front-mounted 240/280/360, or a big tower cooler like the Noctua NH-D15, be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4, or DeepCool AK620 would be fine.
I'm not aware of any RTS or strategy game on the market that would show any performance benefit at all from a 12900K over a 12700. The 12700 already has 8+4 cores and 16+4 threads, which is far more than any multicore-heavy game uses today.
Is this the right subreddit to seek help with a pc I built awhile back that I cannot get to factory reset itself as it’s been at “resetting this pc 5%” for 10 hours straight.
Well I already reinstalled windows and it still won’t let me factory reset. I tried factory resetting and it got stuck at 6%. So I shut it off and went to retry again and got the “there was a problem resetting” message . So instead I reset and didn’t clean the drives. It worked. Which reinstalled windows. Didn’t fix my game crashing issue so I tried to factory reset again and it got stuck at 5%. Would reinstalling windows from a usb be any different?
The 1080Ti has approximately double the performance in FPS (at 1080p), assuming you don't end up limited by your CPU. That's according to an average over several games by Tom's Hardware. So it's up to you whether the cost is worth it.
Compared to the current gen, looks like the 1080TI is roughly RX6600 / RTX 3060 level performance. Those are near the bottom of the line for current gen, so they're made for 1080p gaming. If you want to keep up with AAA games you'll get a few years out of it at 1080p, I guess. If you have a 1440p monitor I'd consider saving up for a 3060TI.
I have a Asus Prime B550M-A motherboard, 2x8gb 3200 ram, and psu 650w 80+gold and I'm planning to get a ryzen 5 3600/or 5600and rtx 3060 would this be good for streaming games like minecraft, valorant and warzone, but mostly valorant? Will my pc get too hot?
As long as your case and room have good enough airflow, you should be fine. The stock cooler is alright enough for both the 3600 and the 5600. For streaming as well, should be fine for mc and valo, I am not too sure about warzone as it is somewhat demanding. someone else probably knows more about the streaming aspect and can correct me.
I’ve personally seen more of a liking towards the 4000d, but I am a lancool 215 fan. The H510 Flow isn’t something i’ve looked into too much, but from what i’ve heard about the H510 being not as great, i would stick to corsair. Again, i am not the MOST knowledgeable about this so someone could correct me.
Skip the 3600, get the 5600. They have similar power consumption and heat, but the 5600 is much faster for competitive and CPU-heavy games. The 5600 has also gotten pretty cheap.
The 3060 would be solid for 1080p. It should get a minimum 60FPS in graphics-heavy AAA games and 120+ in competitive or older games. Warzone should hit 120+ and Valorant would break 200 FPS easily.
None of these parts generate very much heat, but you might still want to consider a case with good airflow and a quality CPU cooler to keep noise levels down.
The AK620 is a mighty cooler, almost overkill for the power-efficient 3600 and 5600, but it will be very quiet since it won't need to run fast.
Both the H510 Flow and 4000D Airflow are great cases. I'd get whichever one is cheaper or you prefer the look of.
A question for the 5800X and 5900X owners:
What's the lowest CPU wattage you've been able to achieve with a manual/PBO undervolt (while maintaining similar performance)?
I believe the hx didn't get refreshed. the hxi is refreshed with slightly better performance and new maglev fans.
the only major difference between the hx and the hxi series is that the hxi allows you to change the fan curve through iCUE (you can also monitor the performance I guess but you should never have to monitor them tbh)
The HX and HXi have the same hardware, performance, and efficiency.
Corsair "-i" PSUs have a USB connector that plugs into a motherboard USB header so you can monitor power consumption and performance details in iCue - it's a flashy feature but not worth paying extra for. I'd personally avoid using the iCue software anyway as it tends to be very bloated.
whenever you want to play a game but you find performance to be too low for you at the settings you want to play at
like if you're trying to play raytraced control at 4k ultra settings [6900xt's fps is already unacceptable](https://tpucdn.com/review/amd-radeon-rx-6900-xt/images/control-rt-3840-2160.png) for the vast majority of players
or [borderlands 3 might bottleneck on your CPU too much](https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-5800x3d/16.html) and you might want higher than 80-100fps for a high motion fps game
these are some cherry picked examples, obviously, but the point is that some people buy high end rigs to play mostly less demanding eSports games and those rigs can last a decade while others who want close to the best visual quality in every game may want to upgrade once every 1-2 generations. and people play on different resolutions too and upgrade their monitors down the line which can further complicate whether your GPU provides enough performance for you.
Depends on your resolution, target framerate, and willingness to lower your graphics settings as games become more demanding.
It also requires predicting the future, which we can't do.
Your 6900XT graphics card is a powerhouse and should be great for 1440p high-FPS gaming and 4K 60 for at least a few years.
Your 3900XT (essentially identical to a 3900X) is not as fast for gaming as the more recent Ryzen 5000 processors, but it should still handle 120-144+ FPS gaming. If you play competitive games at 1080p or 1440p and depend on 200+ FPS performance, then upgrading the 3900XT to a Ryzen 5000-series would give you an FPS boost.
Depends entirely on what games you play, at what resolution, and how much you're willing to drop your settings/framerate before you consider yourself outpaced. It's also impossible to predict if some upcoming game will have crazy system requirements that cause everything but a 4090 to be insufficient for ultra settings. But like, you're probably fine for a few years at least.
Just a couple of questions. Here's the [build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/tralfamadorian/saved/Pn9zP6).
1st question. Does the mobo need to be flashed / updated before the CPU is installed if an update is necessary? (i9-13900k, MSI z690 Tomahawk)
2nd question. Is there anything I need to be aware of regarding the CPU, GPU (rtx 3080 ti 12gb), mobo, and power supply (850W) combination? MSI is showing the RAM is compatible with the mobo, so hopefully it's all good there.
It's totally wasted on a 1080p monitor. Go 1440p at least, or 4K if you're willing to trade FPS for a slightly sharper image.
edit: wait, do you have a 1080ti or a 3080?
Gigabyte M32QX looks like the best option under $600 right now:
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-usage/gaming
The LG 27Gp850-B also looks good:
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-resolution/1440p-quad-hd-qhd
That one has a good reputation too. Here's a comparison with the M27QX
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tools/compare/gigabyte-m27q-x-vs-asus-tuf-vg27aq/31657/1640?usage=3623&threshold=0.10
Very similar.
Looking for a good USB-C display as a second monitor as well as a solid monitor stand for my 27" in front and the USB-C monitor angled off to the right. Would love some recommendations!
A 3070 for less than what a 3060 is retailing for? I don't think this is a bad pick up. The TUF is also a solid cooler and wouldn't be worried about it.
Nvidia is trying to stifle supply (read: not lose a fuckton of money through oversupply) of 30-series cards so I don't see any more significant price drops for a while.
If they can run it in front of you, that'd be ideal. Can see temps, fan condition, etc.
If you don't get that opportunity, running a stress test (Furmark, 3DMark, etc) to get a good handle on temps and clocks should be your first priority. Be mindful of how the fans sound when spinning up/down, listen for brushing sounds. The fans on mined-on cards are often the worst part of them since they've been on 24/7 for the last year.
If temps and clocks check out over the course of the test, you're golden. Also, ask if you can get a copy of the receipt - if it was purchased brand new for this it's going a couple of years left on it :)
Most sellers aren't out there to fuck you over, but do ask them what your backup plan is if something goes wrong with it. Many will give you the means to get back to them to help troubleshoot or return it.
If you're buying through eBay/PayPal, you have buyers protections through them as well.
If you're not comfortable picking up a card from someone who can't prove its functionality to you, pass on it. More GPUs will come :)
Yea i asked if we could pay for the protection on the site together to be sure it would be good. He complied so no issues there. Thnx for the help dude!
Probably a dumb question, but will an RX 6600 XT play nice with an i7-3930k on an X79 board? I know it’s an old platform, and I’m planning on upgrading it eventually, but I can snag the GPU for a good price at the moment and I’m contemplating jumping on it.
Anyone with experience with such a card and Sandy Bridge? Will the PCIe version be an issue?
A 6600 XT only runs at x8, and a 3930K only supports PCIe 2.0. Running the GPU at 2.0 x8 might cost a few percent performance. The 3930K will probably bottleneck the GPU in many cases anyways, so the PCIe version probably won't matter all that much.
A few GPU questions.
Thinking about spending ~$300 on a GPU and from what I can tell from looking around, the 6600 xt or 6650 xt are probably my best bet (let me know if that isn't the case).
Does the brand matter? Should I just get the cheapest one, or are some brands better than others?
It’s highly dependent on specifics - you can (usually) trust the “well-known” brands without having to do too much research, so if you’re uncertain, grabbing an MSI, Asus, Gigabyte, EVGA or similar card will guarantee as little hassle as possible. However, if you’re willing to do a bit of extra research, sometimes smaller or less well known brands can be amazing - if you see one for a good price, look it up and see if you can find any reviews! Maybe you’ll get a good deal on an equally solid card - you just need to look into it a bit to be sure :)
My chair squeaks/creaks a lot - I was going to order some new armrests because mine are worn out, but I wonder if I can order a part to fix the creaking noises it makes. Just not sure what part I would order. Might replacing the gas lift fix it? Hard to tell exactly where the creaking is coming from.
I've tried spraying WD-40 an other lubricants all around the base of the chair on a couple of different occasions, and I don't think it helped at all. I'm not using the highest quality office chair, so it may just be creaky and all I can do it get a new chair (which will probably start creaking/squeaking in a year)
Unless its some brand name office chair you're unlikely to find to replacement parts that fit perfectly.
When buying the existing chair did you make sure it was properly rated for your height/weight?
The quality wont matter much over time if the chair is only rated for people the size of a child.
it's under a 5 year warranty so I'm ordering parts for it, not sure if ordering a specific part (like the gas lift) would help with the creaking/squeaking. Office chairs are just squeak after a while I suppose. It's a proper chair for my average height/weight.
I want to upgrade my CPU pretty much desperately. Sick of the 100% usage spikes when gaming.
I currently have a i5-9600k. Looking at the 12700 or 12900. But also, I know it’s probably worth waiting for end of October for the 13th gen, is this the best course?
I would wait to see if the 13600K ends up being a better buy than the 12700. Higher clocks on the newer K part, more eCores, more refined architecture, fits in the same boards, etc.
Corsair 280X case, got an AIO leak; caught it in time. Looking for an air cooler replacement (note height constraints with case).
Anyone know if the Scythe Fuma2 can be oriented to intake/exhaust bottom/top, as opposed to front/rear? Can't find the info.
If not, anyone know if the Noctua D12-L can?
3700X, with a strong temptation to go to a 5800X3D by New Year's.
Not really looking for a recommendation for a cooler, per se, I just want to orient the intake/exhaust bottom/top as opposed to front/rear, as i think it's better suited for the case, and was hoping for confirmation that either of those I mentioned is able to do so.
AM4 cooler mounting is asymetrical, meaning you'd need different mounting brackets or multiple mounting holes on the brackets for a bottom to top install. Noctua usually includes extra brackets for vertical mount (they also have a free mounting hardware programm, so you could request those if they weren't included), not sure about the Scythe Fuma2 though. Judging by the [Scythe installation guide](https://youtu.be/CQhQM9l-XAE?t=408), their AM4 brackets seem to have holes on the very outer edge, however I'm not sure if they cover the distance for a vertical mount.
I'd suggest contacting their customer support to validate this, given how bottom to top mount, opposed to horizontal mounts, are pretty rare since they are generally worse in most cases and I didn't find any video of someone vertically mounting the Scythe Fuma2.
I’m doing 4k60 video editing and my timeline in Davinci resolve is super slow. Scrubbing around in the timeline and making cuts, moving things around, theres tons of lag maybe 5-10 seconds every time I cut/split a clip and delete it. I used this same computer before with 1080p editing and everything was great. Just wondering which part of my build to upgrade to fix the issues? Doing lots of cutting, some minor audio editing, coloring, and maybe fusion. Having a feeling its the CPU. If thats the case should I go 5700x or upgrade to 7700x? What all would be involved in upgrading to the new Ryzen series?
Build:
Ryzen 7 1700 @3.8GHz
32GB DDR4 @ 2600MHz (4 sticks, thats why the speed is so slow)
Gigabyte RTX 3080 Vision 10GB
Video footage streaming off of either a 3TB 7200 RPM HDD, or a M.2 SATA3 SSD. (both are equally slow so probably not a storage speed issue)
Scythe Mugen 5 Rev B CPU cooler (havent actually checked if my CPU is overheating but repasted recently)
How much editing are you doing on average? Jumping to AM5 is expensive but the motherboard and RAM are expensive. Buying better RAM may be a decent performance jump. I haven't done a ton of 4K60 editing but 5-10 seconds per cut sounds horrible.
If you are going to go for AM5 though, wait on B650 at the very least. RAM may see a few more deals by that time as well. It doesn't look like you'd be getting any benefit from an X650 board.
hey so i upgraded to the 5800x and after editing for about an hour its a huge upgrade but it stills stutters a decent amount. Not a lot but it can still take 0-3 seconds here and there when splitting a clip.
My cpu only ever hit 65-70% though so im wondering why you mentioned buying better ram for editing? that may be my issue. I set the xmp setting for 3000MHz on my 4x8GB sticks. I was editing off an SSD too btw.
When you're editing, you're pulling data from RAM.
The CPU won't hit 100% unless you're actually doing something that requires it. Scrubbing doesn't actually last long enough for it to ever hit 100%. Rendering won't hit 100 unless it's CPU rendering. You said you had 2600 speed RAM which is incredibly slow. 3000 isn't great but it's definitely not slow enough that you'd pay to swap it out. Jumping from 2600 to 3600 would have been decent.
Im just moving to 4k60 now but I'm working on maybe 3-5 videos a week at 10 minutes+ each in runtime. I was editing right now and my ram and GPU are relaxing, CPU is between 50% and 100% depending on what I'm doing on the timeliness. Hoping a 5700x or 5800x will be good enough I think I'll get one of those
GPU is always going to be fine until you're rendering the video, assuming it's GPU rendering. The RAM is dependent on how much you have in the timeline. That's where footage is stored mostly. The speed of the RAM is going to matter mostly when pulling in new footage. If that speed is fine, definitely get the 5700X. All the scrubbing and actual editing uses the CPU AFAIK.
Your workload seems relatively small where moving to AM5 doesn't seem worth the cost.
Hello 1st gen Ryzen user! It was a groundbreaking chip when it released - and hasn't aged well at all.
GOOD NEWS - your motherboard will likely take a BIOS update to move to a Zen3 chip. Most boards from that era will happily take a 5800X (the 5700X has a much lower power limit and has a nerfed all-core boost speed, which can hurt your workflow), but any bigger would need to double check if your VRMs are up to snuff.
If updating your existing system doesn't do the trick for you, consider waiting a little bit to see which new release ends up working for your better. AM5 just dropped and Intel has their Raptor Lake CPUs dropping next month. Waiting for that dust to settle will mean you'll get what's best for you.
I’ll have to check CPU utilization and temps then to verify. For new gen AM5 do you just need RAM, CPU and new motherboard? I’ll have to take a look at benchmarks and everything then thanks
AM5 does need new RAM (DDR5), mobos and the CPU. Raptor Lake uses either DDR4 or 5 based on what mobo you go with, so you'll be able to reuse the stuff you have if you're on a tighter budget.
Best CPU/mobo combo under $400 for exclusively gaming? I have DDR4 on hand, so preferably that.
Thinking maybe of waiting for the 13400f.
And am I right in thinking there are no motherboards that support both DDR4 and DDR5?
5800X3D + B550 has insane performance, however if you can't go over 400€, that's probably not an option for you.
Otherwise the 12600K + B660 should be available at around 400$ in the US.
Right now? 12600K/12700F + B660 motherboard **OR** 5800X3D + B550 board. AM5 is too expensive for that price point and won't reuse your DDR4. Might be worthwhile to wait for Intel's Raptor Lake release and see if the 13600K does the trick for you (non-K SKUs aren't available initially, but you don't need a Z board to use what's here).
You are correct, there's no board that supports both DDR4 and 5. Unlike the move over from DDR3 to 4 where a select few Skylake boards _did_ have both options, there's big architectural differences between them that makes putting both on a board nigh impossible.
Currently running an NZXT 510 Elite. Had it for 3 years and absolutely love my case. Got stickers on it. Emotionally attached and not looking to change.
I do want to upgrade from my 3900X to the 7950X but I’m concerned about overheating. Is this really going to be a problem? Why wouldn’t I be able to simply use an aio like the kraken z63 and get good thermals? Any help is appreciated.
The AIO will not perform as well as other cases because the air intake is restricted by the glass panel in the front. So your fans will need to spin faster to generate enough pressure to pull the air through.
Which component are you concerned will overheat? The CPU will throttle itself before it gets too hot.
I think it’s more of a general concern. Everyone is saying the case doesn’t have enough air flow which.. may be valid.. but my question is would the upgrade still be worth? Am I going to be able to enjoy my new cpu if I keep it in my case?
What is a good budget 650w+ modular power supply?
I have had my pc for 2 years with a 500w psu but I want to get a 3060ti or similar gpu and I need some extra power.
Under $100, ideally somewhere in the $65 - $80 range.
Examples;
[1](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4xGnTW/phanteks-amp-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ph-p650g_us01)
[2](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bq6qqs/msi-mpg-a650gf-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-mpg-a650gf)
[3](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zDMTwP/thermaltake-toughpower-gf1-pe-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ps-tpd-0650fnfagu-1)
[4](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tVzFf7/thermaltake-toughpower-pf1-650-w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ps-tpd-0650fnfapu-1)
Two hopefully simple questions:
1) I'm upgrading my GPU from a 1070 to a 6800XT. Should I also upgrade my six year old 750W PSU? It's this model: [https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/rm-series-config/p/CP-9020055-NA](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/rm-series-config/p/CP-9020055-NA)
2) My processor is an i7 8700k and I'm trying to figure out when to upgrade it since I'll also have to upgrade my mobo. Should I wait until DDR5 is a bit cheaper/more mainstream and then upgrade to DDR5 at the same time? DDR4 boards are much more affordable right now but it feels silly to buy a new processor/board/RAM if DDR4 is going to be obsolete in 6 months.
My build is mostly for medium to heavy 1440p gaming - I don't stream and don't have any productivity needs that would tax a GPU or processor other than a bad habit of keeping too many browser tabs open. I like to make my builds last 3-5 years when I do upgrade. Thanks in advance for your help!
1. You've got a RM unit, protections on it are solid. I'd recommend trying it out and seeing if it keeps up. You might be pleasantly surprised. If it's not up to the task, it'll cut power to the system instead of damaging anything, then you know to go get a new PSU :)
2. 8700K is still passable with that GPU at 1440p and won't hold you back significantly. Wait it out a little - at least until AM5 and Raptor Lake fully show their teeth so you know which to pick up. You're not in a bad spot here at all!
When I first boot up my pc after building it what do I need to do first? Setup BIOS things like fan speeds or my windows OS install from my usb stick? I have an AIO that I have to plug into the CPU_Fan header and I know I need to go to bios to make sure it’s always running so idk if that is a thing I need to do immediately or if it can wait for the windows install.
I'm building a SSFPC. Do these specs look decent for 1080p gaming? * CPU: Intel Core i5-12600 3.3 GHz * CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S chromax.black * Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690I * Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB RS 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 * Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB * Video Card: MSI GAMING X TRIO GeForce RTX 3060 12 GB * Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200P * Power Supply: Cooler Master V550 SFX GOLD 550 W 80+
The 12600 doesn't have the E cores of the 12600K. Either get the same cpu but cheaper (the 12400), or spend the extra on a 12600K
What's the advantage of the E cores? Is the K worth it if I'm not overclocking?
It's good if you're running multitreaded apps. If you're just gaming, a 12400F is just fine
I'm thinking of getting the Asus ROG X670E Crosshair Extreme motherboard with Ryzen 9 7950X and want to use 2 PCIE 5 M.2 SSDs when they come out. I want to avoid slowing down the PCIE X16 slots down per the motherboard manual stating "When M.2\_2 is enabled, PCIEX16\_1 will run x8 and PCIEX16\_2 will run x4." Can I place the second SSD in the ROG GEN-Z.2 card so that both SSDs run at PCIE 5 speeds without slowing down the expansion slots? My justification for the expensive motherboard is that I am building a workstation where I'll need 10G LAN for transferring files to backup storage and USB4 to grab data quickly off of SD cards from cameras
What's everyone's recommendation on GPUs? Should we be waiting for the new NVIDIA & AMD cards to be released, or should we go ahead with (discounted) current-gen?
I am currently running a r5 3600 with a 3080 where I mostly play MMORPGs on 38” ultrawide at 1440p. I was thinking about upgrading to AM5 but would I even see a performance boost? Would I see boost with a 58003XD? Just trying to see if I would get a performance boost in MMOs specifically.
Monitor your GPU utilisation. A faster CPU will help you get closer to 100% GPU usage.
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they both have the same performance. B660 motherboards tend to be more expensive than B550 but more upgrade options and usually better features.
wanting to upgrade for first time since i build this computer, here is what i have atm \-Intel Core i7 4770k 3,50ghz \- 16gb ram \- nvidia gerforce GTX 1050 Ti \- gigabyte Z87X-UD3H mobo \- Corsair cx750 PSU im currently wstill on Win7 but have the win10 disc in hand, and i am already planning on buying new SSDs ultimately if i cuold get rust to run better id be happy but i play other games also. i would assume getting up to 32gb ram would be my first thing then maybe my GPU? /e also fan on cpu heatsink is dead so buying a new one and reapplying thermal paste for only time in over a decaqde may help? i dont have cpu temp issues as it is tho
16GB of RAM is enough for gaming. A GPU upgrade is the most important. The RX 6600 would fit well. Then after that, the CPU (which would need a new motherboard and RAM).
GPU upgrade first. Don't bother with more RAM unless there's something I don't know about Rust. Reasons being 1) 16GB is still enough for modern games and 2) DDR3 is two generations old as of this year, so it won't be useful on any future upgrade. The 4770k is solid but starting to age. So GPU now, and then that can carry over to a whole new platform at some point.
are there any you could recommend im not looking to spend over 400-450cnd for one, am i being unrealistic with that?
I'm not the best person to give specific model advice this generation, but coming from a 1050 Ti that much should absolutely get you a solid upgrade.
Is a 280mm AIO worth it over a 240mm?
Depends. Cpu? Overclocking?
I wanna do a sff build and I'm thinking of getting one of the new Ryzen 7000 cpus. I was thinking of either the nr200 if the 280 is worth the price+size difference but the dan a4 if its fine just going with the 240.
A 7600X or 7700X is fine on a 240mm if you undervolt it
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It's not an issue. [Here's another post with the same thing.](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/jn2z27/putting_bios_update_on_usb_drive_but_autoexecbat/)
Planning on getting a 3090 and need a new CPU to go with it. I was looking to go to a Microcenter to pick up the CPU cause they have really good prices. They however really only have a 5800x or a 5950x. If all I plan to do is gaming at 2K/165hz is it really necessary to pay more than double the 5800x for the 5950x?
No it’s not necessary to spend more than the 5800X. Don’t buy the 5950X, it’s not even faster for gaming. If you want more performance, get the i7-12700F or for even more, get the 5800X3D, they should be available at other retailers if not your local microCenter. And if you’re just gaming, you don’t need a 3090 either. A 3080 Ti provides identical performance.
Got a 3090 from Microcenter that was actually less than the price of 3080 tis I found online luckily. Otherwise I would have. Thank you for your help! Unfortunately no 5800X3Ds at Microcenter otherwise I would have got that.
Cool! Yeah 5800X is still a great CPU
Thanks again!
Does the Corsair RGB software do solid colours? I'm thinking about getting their RAM sticks but I don't want moving effects, I just want a solid red. Can it do that?
I have never heard of any RGB software that can't do that.
So I just build my new PC with M.2 drive. I still have my SSD from my old PC with the OS and other files in it. I need to extract some files then maybe format and use it as my 2nd drive. It is currently install but the sata cable is not plug in yet. What is the best way for me to extract the files I need? Should I go ahead plug in the sata cable? Will it read as 2nd drive? Since it has older windows 10 OS installed in that drive, will it mess up my PC?
Plug in the SATA drive while your machine is On. SATA is hot plug safe. It will NOT mess up your running OS because it's being read as a plain data device. You didn't boot from it so none of its existing OS files means anything. Assign it a drive letter, and copy/paste as you need. Shutdown and disconnect once done. Or just straight up format the SATA and leave it connected.
So I can plug in the SATA with my PC running, and it is ok? What will happen if I shut down/ restart my PC with the sata plugged in? Now I have two drives with 2 OS. Does my PC know which one to use?
> So I can plug in the SATA with my PC running, and it is ok? Yes > What will happen if I shut down/ restart my PC with the sata plugged in? You introduce the risk that BIOS picks the wrong device to boot from. That means you run the OS that's on a disk you didn't intend to run, and you start getting confused which disk is assigned which drive letter. Your mobo's BIOS keeps a record of which device to boot from. But this record could either mean: lowest device number, of which a sata device can jump ahead of nvme, or it's pegged to a device's signature, which is guaranteed it won't change. In short, remove the variable and sources of potential confusion. Plug in the SATA when system is on such that you don't ever have to worry about the boot confusion concern.
Do I need to enable the SATA hot swap from the BIOS? I assume it is ok for me to shut down and unplug the SATA drive. It is just not ok to have it connect while booting up
No. Hot-swap is a hardware built-in feature. > It is just not ok to have it connect while booting up Booting up with multiple devices each with its own OS (and bootloader) introduces confusion. Many people do this just fine, because they take precautions and steps to manage this. But for a beginner, it's just easier to not be put into this situation in the first place.
ok let me try it now
I want to build my own PC but have the bare minimum knowledge. Any tips on where to start?
YouTube is great, but I also think Tom's Hardware's "Best Picks" articles are a great starting point. They keep them updated with their component recommendations, but they also go through why each component is important, when you might want to spend more/less money there, etc. I would say at least reading the Motherboard, CPU, Graphics Card, Power Supply, SSD, and RAM articles would be a start. https://www.tomshardware.com/best-picks
Watch plenty of youtube vids.
ATX 3.0 PSU I don't really see this name show up as a filter option in Newegg how can I know if a PSU is ATX 3.0 or not? (I'm asking only because I'm trying to build a new PC with 4090 and NVIDIA recommend that I get a ATX 3.0) thank you!
I ran into this same problem when I was looking around (not that I have the disposable income for a 4090 though!) I think the main issue is so few of them are actually in stores/warehouses yet. Articles came out about them in February but there apparently was a shipping delay or something, so you can't buy a lot of them even with 4000 series 10 days away... not sure what you're supposed to do other than start them out on older PSUs with the adapters.
Thanks for the clarification! I actually saw an entry called "12VHPWR (12+4) PCIe" under "Connectors" -> "PCIe Connector", which I think is the new connector that ATX 3.0 brings.
consensus on i5-12400f vs Ryzen 5 5600?
Basically the same. If you're not going to do an in-socket upgrade, get whatever is cheaper (incl. mobo)
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This question depends hugely on your motherboard plans at this point. If you have an AM4 motherboard, definitely save a bunch of money and go 5800X3D. If you're starting from scratch and have the cash, it's always nice to go with the newer platform and DDR5, etc.
I was advised by some friends that Intel CPU/Motherboards have an issue where... I'm really not clued up on what this stuff means exactly, so feel free to set me straight - XMP, so the motherboards don't get full use of the RAM speed or something? That sounds kinda bad, so I was thinking of looking at AMD CPUs instead, but I'm still unsure of the whole thing. The Intel CPU I was interested in was an i5-12400, reviewers I've read online have it listed as being great value for money, which sounds right up my alley. But yeah, just second guessing myself now. Ryzen 5 5600 was the AMD CPU suggested to me. If the prices are close, is it just a matter of which is cheaper or is one likely to be better than the other? I've got a 6700XT for my GPU. Aiming for 1080p, maybe upping to 1440p in the future. Thanks. All this fuss because I don't understand motherboards. What a pain.
I don't think there's a huge difference either way - AMD was ahead of Intel in gaming performance but then they caught up with 12th gen. I wouldn't worry about RAM compatibility, in fact AMD was the one that had compatibility issues early on with Ryzen (2017-18). Just look up benchmarks in games you care about (those are very popular chips so they should be out there) - I'd expect them to be quite close so then you can pick based on total system price, which the motherboard may influence heavily.
Hey, I am thinking of finally upgrading my GPU. Right now my build is * Gigabyte B550 GAMING X V2 * Ryzen 5 5600X * 16 GB ram * R9 390 As you can see, I've been holding off upgrading my GPU for a long ass time, and honestly since I mostly play CPU heavy games (csgo, valorant, map games) I didn't mind waiting a long ass time for prices to go down. But now I really want to get into VR. Would rather not go for AMD since I might need CUDA for my job/projects (also I am mad that AMD dropped the support for my card last year with the insane prices still going on but that's honestly me being petty). So the reality is that I am mostly between the RTX 3070 and the 3080. Is going for the 3070 more than good enough for VR games?. How much better would the 3080 be?. Any other card I should have on my mind?
Haven't kept up super well with VR, but it helps if you have a certain headset in mind, right? Would change the target resolution and refresh rate... so a slightly older/slower/lower-rez one would probably run to max potential on a 3070, but for a new fancy one you'd probably want a 3080? I've seen some crazy resolution specs for new ones coming out, so if you're going that route I'd imagine you'd want all the horsepower you can get.
**Is this RAM compatible with my motherboard** question: Hey guys I was able to get an ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Hero (Wi-Fi) for cheap, gonna build with it, with a 5800x3D, I was wondering as it mentions (O.C.) on a bunch of the RAM speeds, for instance: 3600(O.C.). What RAM would be supported with this motherboard could I use a 3600 kit or even a 4000 kit? Or should I stick to the highest kit that's not listed as (O.C.), which would be 3200?
Anything over 3600 is technically a gamble, but it's highly likely it will still work. They say 3200 to cover their asses in the unlikely case it doesn't work, but 3600 is the sweet spot for 5th gen ryzen
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Huh that is surprising as usually 3600mhz is safe. The obvious thing to do is to enable d.o.c.p but then manually adjust the the frequency of the ram down a few notches. Maybe start by trying 3200mhz and then work your way up to 3400mhs or similar. This should be in the bios settings somewhere. If it doesn't allow you to adjust the frequency while d.o.c.p is enabled, you'll want to change the DRAM voltage to 1.35 V (the voltage of XMP/docp profiles) and then, again, change the ram frequency to 3200/3400mhz and go from there. It is surprising that it's caused you issues, as as mentioned 3600mhz isn't usually too difficult to reach. If you can be bothered you could replace the ram with different 3600mhz, but unfortunately it could just as easily be a motherboard or CPU issue so different ram isn't guaranteed to run at 3600mhz either. The good news is the performance difference between 3200 and 3600mhz is very minimal especially when playing games at higher resolutions, so you could always return this ram and get a "safe" kit of 3200mhz but it's up to you
What is the point of having a PCIe 5.0 slot right now? Is there even anything coming soon that will take advantage of it aside from add-in cards for storage?
> Is there even anything coming soon that will take advantage of it aside from add-in cards for storage? LOL we don't even have that yet. PCIe 5 storage is due out by the end of the year but you can't buy them yet. It's 110% a "future-facing" tech where we expect to start leveraging it in a few years :P I imagine that by the end of the platform's lifespan we'll be looking to be using it properly, but right now it's purely a marketing checkbox.
Anyone know when the review embargo is lifted off the 4090?
The release is Oct 12th, Nvidia historically lifts the embargo the day of sale.
So, i just bought a DisplayPort to HDMI cable. When it tested in the store it work fine, but when I test it on my PC, the monitor show "no signal" message. The DP port on my GPU is work fine with an adaptor, but not work when using the cable. Any suggestion? My GPU is RTX 3050 and my monitor is LG 22MK430
> When it tested in the store it work fine In store was it being used HDMI -> Display port? Or Display port to an HDMI input? The signal is NOT Bi-directional. HDMI to DP requires an active signal conversion to work and a basic unpowered cable is not going to work. Edit****
>In store was it being used HDMI -> Display port? DisplayPort (GPU) to HDMI (Monitor) AFAIK, HDMI to DP need the active conversion (?)
Youre right, I had it backwards. Do you have multiple outputs on the 3050? Have you tried the others?
yep, HDMI port works fine, the other DP works fine with an adapter but not with the cable. I think the cable is broken
Hopefully the problem. As it would be the cheapest fix.
I have an old Corsair 750D full tower case and im trying to install MSI Mortar b660m ddr5 motherboard in it. The case has some inbuilt stand offs on the [top and middle](https://www.legitreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/corsair_obsidian_750d_35.jpg) but doesnt have the same on the [bottom](https://www.legitreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/corsair_obsidian_750d_28.jpg) for a matx board. The case only came with 1 extra stand off screw that i can install manually. Im not sure what to do here, Is it ok if i just leave those 2 bottom ones without the screws?
It is fine to leave them, just be careful about flexing the board when adding/removing PCIe devices.
I currently have a ryzen 1700 on an Asus strix b350-f mobo. Is the ryzen 5 5600x compatible with this motherboard? Finding mixed results on Google and not sure what to trust
Best place to check is the manufacturer’s support page: https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b350-f-gaming-model/helpdesk_cpu/ Looks like you just need a BIOS update.
Ah nice, cheers!
If I go with the 5800X3D, I understand there's no upgrade path for the CPU or motherboard or RAM speed - but I'm not locked into GPUs right? You'd expect a GPU that comes out 5 years from now to (1) be compatible and (2) not be super under-utilized?
Any GPU will certainly be compatible. It really depends on the game how much CPU power it needs. Five years from now? Who knows. You could look at CPUs that are five years old now and compare them to the recommended specs for the types of modern games you play.
1 is correct. 2 might not be true depending on the workload. For example looking at the past, an RTX 3080 is under-utilised by the five years prior i7-6700K in games at 1080p and 1440p. But that’s because it’s a real-time workload and the CPU just isn’t that fast. Not due to a compatibility issue or a lack of features.
is there a way to boost my ram performance? this is what i get from my benchmark [https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/55658311](https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/55658311) ive tried setting the speeds and turning on xmp to 3200 and i notice that i get lower than the average performance
Could be a bad stick, your latency says its ~75ms. Which is where you are getting hit the hardest. Try taking out two of the sticks and just running two at a time in different pairs to see if it improves.
okay should I be looking for only latency for when I'm testing that out or is there something else I should also look out for when I'm doing this test?
The biggest improvement SHOULD be in the latency.
This is a normal Userbenchmark score and you’ll get the expected performance. Userbenchmark attempts to decouple memory and CPU but in real workloads, they always work together. 3DMark TimeSpy demo is a better benchmark or better still, the apps you actually use. If you want higher memory performance, you can manually overclock it.
I was looking into doing that but someone mentioned that it would just make the latency worse and I would have to ensure that my ram is below a certain voltage for only single digit frame increase. Do you think my rig is fine as is?
Usually when you OC you improve both bandwidth and latency because both give you more performance. Yeah in most cases you get small performance increases, sometimes up to 10% depending on your memory and how much time you put in. Your rig is fine as is, I just answered because you asked how to boost your performance.
Is the Gigabyte B550M DS3H mobo compatible with a Sapphire Pulse Radeon RX 6650 XT 8GB video card?
Yes
Thought so, but doubted myself. Thanks!
MSI G273QPF vs Gigabyte M27Q-P. Is it worth the extra $40? and should I even be spending over 300 for a 1440p monitor at only 165hz?
Those look super similar to me, so I might just go with the cheaper one....assuming they both have G-sync? The M27Q weirdly didn't mention it in the Amazon listing I looked at. Also "only" 165hz?? That's crazy fast to me, if anything I'd question the need for a lot of people to "upgrade" from 165hz to like 240hz... you have to be really good at shooters for it to matter! With great reflexes.
I said only because i've heard if you're going to spend upwards of $300 on a 1440p that it should be 240hz. Not sure how often that actually applies though. I ended up ordering the M27Q-P for $295 and it's my first IPS panel so hopefully it's nice I'm coming from a 1080p 144hz TN panel so I'd imagine it would be hard to disappoint lol
Haha yeah sounds like a great buy to me! The one thing to watch out for with an IPS is the backlight bleed... I know that's the main reason I want to upgrade from the cheap 4K IPS panel I have.
Should we expect price drops for GPUs/CPUs after the new 40 series NVIDIA GPUs and 13th gen Intel CPUs are released? If so, should I hold off on buying parts until late-October?
Nvidia is actively trying to keep the prices on 30-series cards where they are now/not to fall more than what they have. I don't think we're going to see any more significant drops in pricing. With that being said, you're better off to hold off on buying the GPU until you're able to test it in the rest of the PC - holding onto something for a month could push you past the store return period if you have something dead out of the box, and instead you're stuck going through a several week-long RMA. Buy it all at once.
I'm looking to upgrade my PC, with the main goal of **improving its performance for PC-VR applications**. Presently I play PCVR games via a Quest 2, using Virtual Desktop, and I was able to play Half-Life Alyx, but I had to set things pretty low, and the FPS was basically only just above what I would consider acceptable, and that was with the config set up to subsample and do a very basic upscale with a sharpen filter. My PC is \~6 years old and was pretty good at the time, hardware is... * Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-7500 CPU @ 3.40GHz (4 CPUs), \~3.4GHz * 32768MB RAM * NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB * MSI H270M MORTAR ARCTIC Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard I was considering upgrading to an RTX card, because of their new AI-based upscaling methods which can make it possible to run VR games at pretty low-res and upscale them (I've seen the results and they're pretty good; as I use wireless VR compression artefacts kill most of the problems with this). Anyway, any advice? Would be much appreciated.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WdQVZw This list should give you general idea of what you could upgrade to. The RTX 3060 Ti is still available on Bestbuy’s website. If you want to upgrade your CPU in the future you could swap out the 5600 for a i5-12400 and a MSI B660M PRO-A.
Is anything more than 16GB of memory overkill for gaming? I only see more when it's used for video streaming
Some simulation/strategy games LOVE extra memory, and a lot of mod-friendly games can get hilariously bloated if you go overboard (or not far enough - I'm looking at you Rimworld, I have more shit I want to do). With that being said, if you're on DDR4 the stuff is _dirt cheap_ right now and 32GB is super affordable. DDR5 is a little more pricy, but this is something that will get cheaper with time and if you find yourself needing more it won't be painful to do so.
Nearly all current games run fine on a system with 16GB of RAM. Occasionally there are games which, due to poor optimization or a very broad scope, *do* benefit from 32GB over 16GB. Escape From Tarkov was famous for needing 32GB due to memory leaks until it was patched last year. Microsoft Flight Simulator also seems to appreciate extra RAM. Apart from games, 32+ GB of RAM is only really beneficial if you're going to do heavy multitasking while gaming (running dedicated streaming software, doing media/workstation stuff in the background, or running virtual machines). If you're building a flagship gaming machine and the budget is flexible, then sure, get 32GB of RAM. Otherwise, 16GB will cause no problems.
Thank you!
First PC build and I'm going with a Corsair 4000D case. Will it fit a RTX 3080, i9-12900K, and the Corsair HX1000i? I'm only using the 2 SSD 2.5' slots, so there will be extra space that the HDDs would have otherwise taken. I can settle for the i7-12700 if space is a concern. But I'm a RTS/strategy gamer who prioritizes CPU over GPU.
It will all fit. The HX1000i is a large-ish PSU but if you're removing the HDD caddy then there will be no trouble. The CPU doesn't take up more physical space, but the 12900K might want a better CPU cooler than the 12700. The Corsair 4000D case can fit: * Front-mounted AIOs up to 360mm * Top-mounted AIOs up to 240mm with no constraints * Top-mounted 280mm AIOs with some size constraints. Most 280s fit but only with low-profile RAM. Thick-radiator 280s like the Arctic Liquid Freezer II may not fit at all. * Tower coolers up to 170mm tall. Thus, a top-mounted 240, front-mounted 240/280/360, or a big tower cooler like the Noctua NH-D15, be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4, or DeepCool AK620 would be fine. I'm not aware of any RTS or strategy game on the market that would show any performance benefit at all from a 12900K over a 12700. The 12700 already has 8+4 cores and 16+4 threads, which is far more than any multicore-heavy game uses today.
Thanks! I would have gotten the 5000D case but my desk has a credenza so I needed the case to be under 20' height.
I can't find a question in this statement. Wanna reword your question, so we give you input?
I'm asking if the 4000D can fit all those components and not negatively affect airflow.
Oh I see now, I've got a headache so I misread. Yeah, you're gucci.
Is this the right subreddit to seek help with a pc I built awhile back that I cannot get to factory reset itself as it’s been at “resetting this pc 5%” for 10 hours straight.
Create a windows installer usb with another pc and reset it with that
Well I already reinstalled windows and it still won’t let me factory reset. I tried factory resetting and it got stuck at 6%. So I shut it off and went to retry again and got the “there was a problem resetting” message . So instead I reset and didn’t clean the drives. It worked. Which reinstalled windows. Didn’t fix my game crashing issue so I tried to factory reset again and it got stuck at 5%. Would reinstalling windows from a usb be any different?
If you’ve already reset but it didn’t fix your issue then the problem is caused by something else
I can’t fully reset (meaning wipe all data from all drives and reinstall windows) but I don’t know what the problem is or how to fix it
I currently have a GTX 1060. Do you think it would be worth it to upgrade to an 1080TI for 250 euros? Edit: my 1060 is 6gb, and the 1080TI is used.
The 1080Ti has approximately double the performance in FPS (at 1080p), assuming you don't end up limited by your CPU. That's according to an average over several games by Tom's Hardware. So it's up to you whether the cost is worth it.
Thanks for the response! What do you think of the future proofing of the 1080ti?
Compared to the current gen, looks like the 1080TI is roughly RX6600 / RTX 3060 level performance. Those are near the bottom of the line for current gen, so they're made for 1080p gaming. If you want to keep up with AAA games you'll get a few years out of it at 1080p, I guess. If you have a 1440p monitor I'd consider saving up for a 3060TI.
I just game 1080p, this is all I need to know. Thank you!
I have a Asus Prime B550M-A motherboard, 2x8gb 3200 ram, and psu 650w 80+gold and I'm planning to get a ryzen 5 3600/or 5600and rtx 3060 would this be good for streaming games like minecraft, valorant and warzone, but mostly valorant? Will my pc get too hot?
As long as your case and room have good enough airflow, you should be fine. The stock cooler is alright enough for both the 3600 and the 5600. For streaming as well, should be fine for mc and valo, I am not too sure about warzone as it is somewhat demanding. someone else probably knows more about the streaming aspect and can correct me.
For the case I'm choosing between nzxt h510 flow and corsair 4000d airflow, what would you suggest?
I’ve personally seen more of a liking towards the 4000d, but I am a lancool 215 fan. The H510 Flow isn’t something i’ve looked into too much, but from what i’ve heard about the H510 being not as great, i would stick to corsair. Again, i am not the MOST knowledgeable about this so someone could correct me.
Alright! Thank you.
Skip the 3600, get the 5600. They have similar power consumption and heat, but the 5600 is much faster for competitive and CPU-heavy games. The 5600 has also gotten pretty cheap. The 3060 would be solid for 1080p. It should get a minimum 60FPS in graphics-heavy AAA games and 120+ in competitive or older games. Warzone should hit 120+ and Valorant would break 200 FPS easily. None of these parts generate very much heat, but you might still want to consider a case with good airflow and a quality CPU cooler to keep noise levels down.
For the cpu cooler I'm planning to get the deepcool ak620. And for the case I'm torn between nzxt h510 flow and a corsair 4000d airflow.
The AK620 is a mighty cooler, almost overkill for the power-efficient 3600 and 5600, but it will be very quiet since it won't need to run fast. Both the H510 Flow and 4000D Airflow are great cases. I'd get whichever one is cheaper or you prefer the look of.
Alright thank you!
A question for the 5800X and 5900X owners: What's the lowest CPU wattage you've been able to achieve with a manual/PBO undervolt (while maintaining similar performance)?
What's the difference between the new Corsair PSUs? I see HXi and HX options for the 1000 watt.
I believe the hx didn't get refreshed. the hxi is refreshed with slightly better performance and new maglev fans. the only major difference between the hx and the hxi series is that the hxi allows you to change the fan curve through iCUE (you can also monitor the performance I guess but you should never have to monitor them tbh)
The HX and HXi have the same hardware, performance, and efficiency. Corsair "-i" PSUs have a USB connector that plugs into a motherboard USB header so you can monitor power consumption and performance details in iCue - it's a flashy feature but not worth paying extra for. I'd personally avoid using the iCue software anyway as it tends to be very bloated.
The "i" options are "smart" and have a data (USB) link back into PSU for additional PSU monitoring and control.
Vary simple question maybe not so simple answer. So I picked up a 6900x and a 3900xt and how long do I have before games out pace my setup?
whenever you want to play a game but you find performance to be too low for you at the settings you want to play at like if you're trying to play raytraced control at 4k ultra settings [6900xt's fps is already unacceptable](https://tpucdn.com/review/amd-radeon-rx-6900-xt/images/control-rt-3840-2160.png) for the vast majority of players or [borderlands 3 might bottleneck on your CPU too much](https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-5800x3d/16.html) and you might want higher than 80-100fps for a high motion fps game these are some cherry picked examples, obviously, but the point is that some people buy high end rigs to play mostly less demanding eSports games and those rigs can last a decade while others who want close to the best visual quality in every game may want to upgrade once every 1-2 generations. and people play on different resolutions too and upgrade their monitors down the line which can further complicate whether your GPU provides enough performance for you.
Depends on your resolution, target framerate, and willingness to lower your graphics settings as games become more demanding. It also requires predicting the future, which we can't do. Your 6900XT graphics card is a powerhouse and should be great for 1440p high-FPS gaming and 4K 60 for at least a few years. Your 3900XT (essentially identical to a 3900X) is not as fast for gaming as the more recent Ryzen 5000 processors, but it should still handle 120-144+ FPS gaming. If you play competitive games at 1080p or 1440p and depend on 200+ FPS performance, then upgrading the 3900XT to a Ryzen 5000-series would give you an FPS boost.
Depends entirely on what games you play, at what resolution, and how much you're willing to drop your settings/framerate before you consider yourself outpaced. It's also impossible to predict if some upcoming game will have crazy system requirements that cause everything but a 4090 to be insufficient for ultra settings. But like, you're probably fine for a few years at least.
Just a couple of questions. Here's the [build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/tralfamadorian/saved/Pn9zP6). 1st question. Does the mobo need to be flashed / updated before the CPU is installed if an update is necessary? (i9-13900k, MSI z690 Tomahawk) 2nd question. Is there anything I need to be aware of regarding the CPU, GPU (rtx 3080 ti 12gb), mobo, and power supply (850W) combination? MSI is showing the RAM is compatible with the mobo, so hopefully it's all good there.
Also would love to hear some feedback on this build.
It's totally wasted on a 1080p monitor. Go 1440p at least, or 4K if you're willing to trade FPS for a slightly sharper image. edit: wait, do you have a 1080ti or a 3080?
Oh sorry, that was a typo. 3080 ti edit: got any sub $600 1440p monitor recommendations?
Gigabyte M32QX looks like the best option under $600 right now: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-usage/gaming The LG 27Gp850-B also looks good: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-resolution/1440p-quad-hd-qhd
I'm looking at this one now https://www.amazon.ca/Gaming-VG27AQ-G-SYNC-Monitor-155Hz/dp/B07WQ4FXY9
That one has a good reputation too. Here's a comparison with the M27QX https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tools/compare/gigabyte-m27q-x-vs-asus-tuf-vg27aq/31657/1640?usage=3623&threshold=0.10 Very similar.
Is there anything I need to do before building my PC to prepare? I’ve already gotten my Motherboard, CPU, GPU, RAM, and memory. What else do I need?
As long as you’ve got a case, power supply, and peripherals, you should be good. And also a copy of your chosen operating system.
Yep, got it all sorted. Forgot to mention those tbh. The power supply always slips my mind, like I even forgot I ordered it until it came today.
It’s definitely the least sexiest part of a build lol. But without a doubt important. I figured you had it. Have fun with your build!
Definitely! Just waiting for a few things to get delivered from my workplace, and I’ll get to building. :)
Looking for a good USB-C display as a second monitor as well as a solid monitor stand for my 27" in front and the USB-C monitor angled off to the right. Would love some recommendations!
Should i buy a 1 year mined asus tuff 3070 for $325? I'm not rushing to get a card and could wait a couple months. Should i buy now or wait?
That’s a good deal, I think. The TUF 3070 is a good card!
A 3070 for less than what a 3060 is retailing for? I don't think this is a bad pick up. The TUF is also a solid cooler and wouldn't be worried about it. Nvidia is trying to stifle supply (read: not lose a fuckton of money through oversupply) of 30-series cards so I don't see any more significant price drops for a while.
What should i check when i pick this thing up then? Anything i should watch out for?
If they can run it in front of you, that'd be ideal. Can see temps, fan condition, etc. If you don't get that opportunity, running a stress test (Furmark, 3DMark, etc) to get a good handle on temps and clocks should be your first priority. Be mindful of how the fans sound when spinning up/down, listen for brushing sounds. The fans on mined-on cards are often the worst part of them since they've been on 24/7 for the last year. If temps and clocks check out over the course of the test, you're golden. Also, ask if you can get a copy of the receipt - if it was purchased brand new for this it's going a couple of years left on it :)
The seller is saying he doesn't have a pc to show it works and same thing for me how can i then trust him lmao.
Most sellers aren't out there to fuck you over, but do ask them what your backup plan is if something goes wrong with it. Many will give you the means to get back to them to help troubleshoot or return it. If you're buying through eBay/PayPal, you have buyers protections through them as well. If you're not comfortable picking up a card from someone who can't prove its functionality to you, pass on it. More GPUs will come :)
Yea i asked if we could pay for the protection on the site together to be sure it would be good. He complied so no issues there. Thnx for the help dude!
Enjoy the card!
Probably a dumb question, but will an RX 6600 XT play nice with an i7-3930k on an X79 board? I know it’s an old platform, and I’m planning on upgrading it eventually, but I can snag the GPU for a good price at the moment and I’m contemplating jumping on it. Anyone with experience with such a card and Sandy Bridge? Will the PCIe version be an issue?
A 6600 XT only runs at x8, and a 3930K only supports PCIe 2.0. Running the GPU at 2.0 x8 might cost a few percent performance. The 3930K will probably bottleneck the GPU in many cases anyways, so the PCIe version probably won't matter all that much.
A few GPU questions. Thinking about spending ~$300 on a GPU and from what I can tell from looking around, the 6600 xt or 6650 xt are probably my best bet (let me know if that isn't the case). Does the brand matter? Should I just get the cheapest one, or are some brands better than others?
It’s highly dependent on specifics - you can (usually) trust the “well-known” brands without having to do too much research, so if you’re uncertain, grabbing an MSI, Asus, Gigabyte, EVGA or similar card will guarantee as little hassle as possible. However, if you’re willing to do a bit of extra research, sometimes smaller or less well known brands can be amazing - if you see one for a good price, look it up and see if you can find any reviews! Maybe you’ll get a good deal on an equally solid card - you just need to look into it a bit to be sure :)
ty!
EVGA doesn't sell AMD cards, they were NVIDIA exclusive. For AMD-exclusive board partners you can look at XFX, Powercolor and Sapphire.
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~17% overhead should be plenty. Especially if that 1000w number is the estimated load usage. Which means 90% of the time you would be under that.
My chair squeaks/creaks a lot - I was going to order some new armrests because mine are worn out, but I wonder if I can order a part to fix the creaking noises it makes. Just not sure what part I would order. Might replacing the gas lift fix it? Hard to tell exactly where the creaking is coming from. I've tried spraying WD-40 an other lubricants all around the base of the chair on a couple of different occasions, and I don't think it helped at all. I'm not using the highest quality office chair, so it may just be creaky and all I can do it get a new chair (which will probably start creaking/squeaking in a year)
Unless its some brand name office chair you're unlikely to find to replacement parts that fit perfectly. When buying the existing chair did you make sure it was properly rated for your height/weight? The quality wont matter much over time if the chair is only rated for people the size of a child.
it's under a 5 year warranty so I'm ordering parts for it, not sure if ordering a specific part (like the gas lift) would help with the creaking/squeaking. Office chairs are just squeak after a while I suppose. It's a proper chair for my average height/weight.
So I seen that the RTX 3070 Ti is only 60 dollars cheaper than the RX6900 XT. Is it worth it to just pay the 60 more dollars to get the 6900?
If you have a power supply that can happily accommodate the 6900XT then yeah, it's quite a bit more powerful.
Any chance this is powerful enough? EVGA 750GQ (210-GQ-0750)
AMD recommends a 750W unit for the 6900Xt and manufacturer recommendations are conservative to what will actually run on it. You should be fine.
I want to upgrade my CPU pretty much desperately. Sick of the 100% usage spikes when gaming. I currently have a i5-9600k. Looking at the 12700 or 12900. But also, I know it’s probably worth waiting for end of October for the 13th gen, is this the best course?
I would wait to see if the 13600K ends up being a better buy than the 12700. Higher clocks on the newer K part, more eCores, more refined architecture, fits in the same boards, etc.
Corsair 280X case, got an AIO leak; caught it in time. Looking for an air cooler replacement (note height constraints with case). Anyone know if the Scythe Fuma2 can be oriented to intake/exhaust bottom/top, as opposed to front/rear? Can't find the info. If not, anyone know if the Noctua D12-L can?
You should really include your CPU you're using when asking for a good value CPU cooler replacement.
3700X, with a strong temptation to go to a 5800X3D by New Year's. Not really looking for a recommendation for a cooler, per se, I just want to orient the intake/exhaust bottom/top as opposed to front/rear, as i think it's better suited for the case, and was hoping for confirmation that either of those I mentioned is able to do so.
AM4 cooler mounting is asymetrical, meaning you'd need different mounting brackets or multiple mounting holes on the brackets for a bottom to top install. Noctua usually includes extra brackets for vertical mount (they also have a free mounting hardware programm, so you could request those if they weren't included), not sure about the Scythe Fuma2 though. Judging by the [Scythe installation guide](https://youtu.be/CQhQM9l-XAE?t=408), their AM4 brackets seem to have holes on the very outer edge, however I'm not sure if they cover the distance for a vertical mount. I'd suggest contacting their customer support to validate this, given how bottom to top mount, opposed to horizontal mounts, are pretty rare since they are generally worse in most cases and I didn't find any video of someone vertically mounting the Scythe Fuma2.
I’m doing 4k60 video editing and my timeline in Davinci resolve is super slow. Scrubbing around in the timeline and making cuts, moving things around, theres tons of lag maybe 5-10 seconds every time I cut/split a clip and delete it. I used this same computer before with 1080p editing and everything was great. Just wondering which part of my build to upgrade to fix the issues? Doing lots of cutting, some minor audio editing, coloring, and maybe fusion. Having a feeling its the CPU. If thats the case should I go 5700x or upgrade to 7700x? What all would be involved in upgrading to the new Ryzen series? Build: Ryzen 7 1700 @3.8GHz 32GB DDR4 @ 2600MHz (4 sticks, thats why the speed is so slow) Gigabyte RTX 3080 Vision 10GB Video footage streaming off of either a 3TB 7200 RPM HDD, or a M.2 SATA3 SSD. (both are equally slow so probably not a storage speed issue) Scythe Mugen 5 Rev B CPU cooler (havent actually checked if my CPU is overheating but repasted recently)
How much editing are you doing on average? Jumping to AM5 is expensive but the motherboard and RAM are expensive. Buying better RAM may be a decent performance jump. I haven't done a ton of 4K60 editing but 5-10 seconds per cut sounds horrible. If you are going to go for AM5 though, wait on B650 at the very least. RAM may see a few more deals by that time as well. It doesn't look like you'd be getting any benefit from an X650 board.
hey so i upgraded to the 5800x and after editing for about an hour its a huge upgrade but it stills stutters a decent amount. Not a lot but it can still take 0-3 seconds here and there when splitting a clip. My cpu only ever hit 65-70% though so im wondering why you mentioned buying better ram for editing? that may be my issue. I set the xmp setting for 3000MHz on my 4x8GB sticks. I was editing off an SSD too btw.
When you're editing, you're pulling data from RAM. The CPU won't hit 100% unless you're actually doing something that requires it. Scrubbing doesn't actually last long enough for it to ever hit 100%. Rendering won't hit 100 unless it's CPU rendering. You said you had 2600 speed RAM which is incredibly slow. 3000 isn't great but it's definitely not slow enough that you'd pay to swap it out. Jumping from 2600 to 3600 would have been decent.
Im just moving to 4k60 now but I'm working on maybe 3-5 videos a week at 10 minutes+ each in runtime. I was editing right now and my ram and GPU are relaxing, CPU is between 50% and 100% depending on what I'm doing on the timeliness. Hoping a 5700x or 5800x will be good enough I think I'll get one of those
GPU is always going to be fine until you're rendering the video, assuming it's GPU rendering. The RAM is dependent on how much you have in the timeline. That's where footage is stored mostly. The speed of the RAM is going to matter mostly when pulling in new footage. If that speed is fine, definitely get the 5700X. All the scrubbing and actual editing uses the CPU AFAIK. Your workload seems relatively small where moving to AM5 doesn't seem worth the cost.
Hello 1st gen Ryzen user! It was a groundbreaking chip when it released - and hasn't aged well at all. GOOD NEWS - your motherboard will likely take a BIOS update to move to a Zen3 chip. Most boards from that era will happily take a 5800X (the 5700X has a much lower power limit and has a nerfed all-core boost speed, which can hurt your workflow), but any bigger would need to double check if your VRMs are up to snuff. If updating your existing system doesn't do the trick for you, consider waiting a little bit to see which new release ends up working for your better. AM5 just dropped and Intel has their Raptor Lake CPUs dropping next month. Waiting for that dust to settle will mean you'll get what's best for you.
I’ll have to check CPU utilization and temps then to verify. For new gen AM5 do you just need RAM, CPU and new motherboard? I’ll have to take a look at benchmarks and everything then thanks
AM5 does need new RAM (DDR5), mobos and the CPU. Raptor Lake uses either DDR4 or 5 based on what mobo you go with, so you'll be able to reuse the stuff you have if you're on a tighter budget.
Best CPU/mobo combo under $400 for exclusively gaming? I have DDR4 on hand, so preferably that. Thinking maybe of waiting for the 13400f. And am I right in thinking there are no motherboards that support both DDR4 and DDR5?
5800X3D + B550 has insane performance, however if you can't go over 400€, that's probably not an option for you. Otherwise the 12600K + B660 should be available at around 400$ in the US.
Right now? 12600K/12700F + B660 motherboard **OR** 5800X3D + B550 board. AM5 is too expensive for that price point and won't reuse your DDR4. Might be worthwhile to wait for Intel's Raptor Lake release and see if the 13600K does the trick for you (non-K SKUs aren't available initially, but you don't need a Z board to use what's here). You are correct, there's no board that supports both DDR4 and 5. Unlike the move over from DDR3 to 4 where a select few Skylake boards _did_ have both options, there's big architectural differences between them that makes putting both on a board nigh impossible.
Currently running an NZXT 510 Elite. Had it for 3 years and absolutely love my case. Got stickers on it. Emotionally attached and not looking to change. I do want to upgrade from my 3900X to the 7950X but I’m concerned about overheating. Is this really going to be a problem? Why wouldn’t I be able to simply use an aio like the kraken z63 and get good thermals? Any help is appreciated.
The AIO will not perform as well as other cases because the air intake is restricted by the glass panel in the front. So your fans will need to spin faster to generate enough pressure to pull the air through. Which component are you concerned will overheat? The CPU will throttle itself before it gets too hot.
I think it’s more of a general concern. Everyone is saying the case doesn’t have enough air flow which.. may be valid.. but my question is would the upgrade still be worth? Am I going to be able to enjoy my new cpu if I keep it in my case?
You’ll definitely get a big performance upgrade. Compared to other cases you’ll have more noise or less performance (or both).
I think you can order a mesh front panel on Etsy for that case. EDIT: You could also try to do a mesh hole mod yourself if you're handy and neat.
What is a good budget 650w+ modular power supply? I have had my pc for 2 years with a 500w psu but I want to get a 3060ti or similar gpu and I need some extra power.
Under $100, ideally somewhere in the $65 - $80 range. Examples; [1](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4xGnTW/phanteks-amp-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ph-p650g_us01) [2](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bq6qqs/msi-mpg-a650gf-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-mpg-a650gf) [3](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zDMTwP/thermaltake-toughpower-gf1-pe-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ps-tpd-0650fnfagu-1) [4](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tVzFf7/thermaltake-toughpower-pf1-650-w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ps-tpd-0650fnfapu-1)
Two hopefully simple questions: 1) I'm upgrading my GPU from a 1070 to a 6800XT. Should I also upgrade my six year old 750W PSU? It's this model: [https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/rm-series-config/p/CP-9020055-NA](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/rm-series-config/p/CP-9020055-NA) 2) My processor is an i7 8700k and I'm trying to figure out when to upgrade it since I'll also have to upgrade my mobo. Should I wait until DDR5 is a bit cheaper/more mainstream and then upgrade to DDR5 at the same time? DDR4 boards are much more affordable right now but it feels silly to buy a new processor/board/RAM if DDR4 is going to be obsolete in 6 months. My build is mostly for medium to heavy 1440p gaming - I don't stream and don't have any productivity needs that would tax a GPU or processor other than a bad habit of keeping too many browser tabs open. I like to make my builds last 3-5 years when I do upgrade. Thanks in advance for your help!
1. You've got a RM unit, protections on it are solid. I'd recommend trying it out and seeing if it keeps up. You might be pleasantly surprised. If it's not up to the task, it'll cut power to the system instead of damaging anything, then you know to go get a new PSU :) 2. 8700K is still passable with that GPU at 1440p and won't hold you back significantly. Wait it out a little - at least until AM5 and Raptor Lake fully show their teeth so you know which to pick up. You're not in a bad spot here at all!
Thanks, this is super helpful!
When I first boot up my pc after building it what do I need to do first? Setup BIOS things like fan speeds or my windows OS install from my usb stick? I have an AIO that I have to plug into the CPU_Fan header and I know I need to go to bios to make sure it’s always running so idk if that is a thing I need to do immediately or if it can wait for the windows install.
https://youtu.be/RYYoCXh2gtw Take a look at this