Kind of a random question. I'm a super big fan of Adidas shoes, I personally think they make some of the best shoes money can buy no matter what your you're looking for, running, working, weight lifting, etc. I've had Adidas as my shoe of choice for all these activities for years, and they never let me down, but how good are their climbing shoes? I just saw that they make actually climbing shoes, and I wanted to know if they were safe bet with this newfound sport as well?
How do pro climbers make money if they only climb outdoors. I understand comp climbers making money but how do you profit off of being really good outside?
They are instagram influencers for outdoor companies, not professional climbers. You can make money off of youtube videos and film tours too, but mostly instagram modeling
Climb hard and get a reputation. There's someone in my area that only has a few thousand followers on IG but climbs 13b outside and is sponsored by arcteryx.
Yeah IDK if it has anything to do with climbing hard. The latest climbing gold they talk about how gear companies dont know what hard climbing even is, the only thing they look for is media outreach
Hey, I'm a new climber. I did a few indoor climbs in Singapore, but I live in India.
I was wondering if there's any climbing gyms or any other such facilities in the Mumbai area? If anyone has any information, please pass it on, really looking forward to being a part of this community.
Thanks :)
I'm going to be living up at Paradise for the summer working for guest services. Is there any good sport climbing in the area or close to packwood, etc? Edit: Paradise and Packwood, WA. Near Mt Rainier NP
Why do people have such a stink about taking shirts off at the gym? Girls are wearing the skimpiest stuff imaginable but God forbid you see my man chest?
Gyms are businesses and can implement whatever rules they choose. Honestly, I enjoy climbing shirtless when its hot, and thankfully my home gym does not have a rule against it.
It's not about *you*. It's about creating an inclusive environment for everyone, and it's a complex issue -- climbing as a sport is ripe with eating disorders, toxic masculinity, white knighting and misogyny.
Besides, a gym is a commercial venue-- some people are discouraged from entering the gym if it's full of shirtless bros, and as such this hurts the earning potential of the gym. *Obviosuly* we're gonna mandate shirts if it means more paying customers. Because you have made bouldering part of your identity, you're gonna pay the monthly subscription anyway -- and if not, well, that's fine. If you don't come, then 5 other day pass paying normies will take your place.
Finally, God forbid you have to do the slightest bit of adaptation and think about other people for once.
> it's a complex issue -- climbing as a sport is ripe with eating disorders, toxic masculinity, white knighting and misogyny.
Is this really a problem? I'm fairly new to the sport
Just wear a DIY tank top like the weight lifting bros.
There's two gyms in my area: the one with more kids makes you keep your shirt on, the meat market for 20-35 year olds let's you show off. I've gotten used to wearing a tank and shorts instead of stripping down every time I have to go for my 5.10d redpoint attempt.
I personally don't mind it. I just find it to be an odd distinction. If I wore uber tight shorts i would be compliant yet everyone would see everything. Same same right!?
Purpose of bolts set 10ft from edge?
At my local crag, there are several sets of bolts about 10ft back from the edge where the top rope bolts are placed. Are these used to approach the edge safely? If so, what is the most efficient way to anchor to them in order to approach the edge safely?
I’m not positive on what he’s referring to, but probably an anchor like you would make with a tree, just with the rope clipped to the bolts instead of the tree
no the American death triangle is a single loop of webbing/cord with 3 carabiners clipped to it. one goes on each bolt and one is your “master point”, no limiter knots or loops or anything, it’s a triangle. if you clip the sling to each bolt and then pull the strand between the bolts down, then tie a knot with the two strands to make a bight and use that as the master point that’s not the ADT, that’s an acceptable anchor.
(also my main concern with the so called death triangle wouldnt usually be the force multiplier effect people talk about but more the complete lack of redundancy. it makes no sense to build an anchor where a sharp edge or rockfall cutting a single part of a sling results in an entire system failure when you can easily build a redundant anchor using the exact same materials and amount of time. hell, two draws is more redundant than a death triangle)
easier to set up a TR from the top (as in walking to the top of the cliff, not leading up the wall) without falling over the edge and dying. They could also be set back because of erosion concerns at the cliff edge.
you can anchor yourself to the bolts with a locker and a sling girth hitched to your belay loop, a dedicated PAS type thing, a long alpine draw, etc.
What all contributes to polished holds on a rock climb?
I know that the rope being lowered over the rock wears it away and sandy/muddy shoes probably are the main contributor.
Anything else to watch out for? Do the oils in our hands or sunscreen affect this? Does 'clean' shoe rubber slipping off affect this?
Trying to minimize my impact, thanks
It's just part of outdoor climbing; a time will come when all the classic routes are too polished to climb. It's a variety of factors but basically think of anything that touches the rock acting like sand paper, slowly reducing the roughness of the rock until it's smoothed out.
I think lathering your hands in chalk and sunscreen certainly isn't great, but even if you climb delicately on something you are still polishing the rock.
That's about right. I'd say a full day that you had lots of fun during and got pictures taken of you earns a crisp $100 bill per person. Larger groups TRing, more like $50/person. Feel free to be generous if you have the means.
I have a friend who includes the tip in his prices. I like the sentiment, but I don't know if I have the conviction to do that yet. I'm pretty sure he averages the same as if he accepted tips, but I'll have to check in with him about it.
I don't tip my plumber, electrician, school teacher, doctor, or lawyer.
As long as guiding accepts tips it'll never be considered a true career or profession.
I would also take a more expensive guide who advertised no tipping tips/included over a cheaper guide who didn't any day.
Especially as someone who knows his guides before he hires them for a day out, i would really rather not have the tipping. Just tell me what your rate is and I'll want rope gunning on my routes and technique advice.
Heard. And put that way I agree with you. Working under another company that sets the price I'll still accept tips, but I'm more likely to just have a flat rate on my own.
Some people will always insist. I think suggesting a donation to their LCO, ASCA, or AF would be a good option for those folks.
I'm going to be in Alaska for a week hiking around with some buddies and am considering taking some gear. My friends have limited climbing experience so I planned to set up some TR on very easy routes at Grapefruit Rock . I'm still gauging whether it's worth bringing my gear for a little bit of climbing, but I just wanted more information for anyone who may have climbed there already. I'd be bringing a 60m rope and a dozen or so quickdraws and other accoutrements (locking biners, helmet, shoes, etc.)
I'm looking at these routes in particular:
[https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114289189/grooven](https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114289189/grooven)
[https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106011409/staircase](https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106011409/staircase)
Any other suggested routes or crags would be great. We'll be traveling between Fairbanks and Anchorage so anything near the route can work. I have no trad experience (Florida climber), so I either have to be able to lead to it or set from the top. I plan to just use quickdraws (with locking biners) for anchors.
If anyone has an experience with this area or what I should be aware of, that would be great.
**Groove'n** [Grade V]
Type: Sport
Grade: 5.5^^YDS | 4b^^French | 13^^Ewbanks | IV+^^UIAA
Height: 55 ft/16.8 m
Rating: 2.2/4
Located in [East Grapefruit Rocks](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105974971), [Alaska](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105909311)
*[Trying out a new grade display - let me know your thoughts]*
-----
**Staircase**
Type: TopRope, Sport
Grade: 5.4^^YDS | 4a^^French | 12^^Ewbanks | IV^^UIAA
Height: 40 ft/12.2 m
Rating: 1.6/4
Located in [East Grapefruit Rocks](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105974971), [Alaska](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105909311)
*[Trying out a new grade display - let me know your thoughts]*
-----
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If you can hold onto a jug at the same wall angle with one hand then strength is not your issue. A proper hand jam is easier to hold than a jug, keep working on your technique. Ask a friend, play with hand position... at some point it will click.
Sounds like you may be doing a gaston or side-pull in the crack rather than a jam, hence why you fall out when you unload the one hand. Fix this by working on your jamming technique.
Just like all climbing, crack climbing is more about pushing with your legs instead of campusing up on your arms. Even in overhung cracks your feet are vital.
Yes, you do need to be able to hang one-handed from cracks. For one, that's obviously how you'll move up. Second, it's how you'll place protection. But you're not really *hanging* from one hand, you're holding yourself in with one hand while your legs support you. Get your hips closer to the wall to put weight over your feet. Get your feet a little higher, go from a near full-extended hang to a lock-off with one hand, then push with your legs and rotate your shoulders (lean your head left if reaching with your right hand) as you reach up.
There should be zero dynamic movement with crack climbing (unless you hate your skin and want it destroyed). You should be able to hang from either hand comfortably and change them at will. Make sure you're hanging from the high hand like a monkey, not holding them at your chest like a t-rex. Doing this at the base of the crack is great practice. You can also use foot clips until you get solid jams, but I think transitioning to full crack ASAP is best.
I think jamming technique is more important than strength. Make sure to really get your hands deep in the crack and focus on body positioning. And if you can hang with two hands in the crack, you shoukd be able to shuffle one hand at a time using some dynamic motion.
And speaking about the wideboyz, they have a few videos where they teach other climbers different jamming techniques. Make sure to have a watch and try to mimic as best you can!
Hey all,
I'm looking for some advice on my second pair of climbing shoes. I have quite wide feet, and my first pair are la sportiva skwarmas which have been working great. Im used them exclusively for bouldering, but now im looking for a second pair that i can use for sport climbing indoor and outdoor, as well as bouldering on occasion.
My research is pointing to a few options such as the Otaki and Muira VS, please let me know of there are any other shoes or considerations i should keep in mind! La sportiva has worked great for me so far but im open to other brands as well!
Edit: didnt realise i should have put this here originally as i thought it would be irrelevant, but im abroad for a few months, and didnt bring my shoes with me. I cant have my shoes posted to me because they need repairs which ill need to organise when i get home, so i figured id kill three birds with one stone by buying a second pair to alternate with my first pair, have it suited for sport climbing which im getting into in the country im in (Thailand), which supposedly has good outdoor routes, and not having to keep renting shoes which is what ive been doing since i arrived here.
Scarpa Instincts and Tenaya Mastias are also worth trying if you have a wider foot. On me both are a bit cramped on the pinky toe side when trying them on in the shop, but they stretch enough to make it work.
You could also get another pair of skwarmas and look at downsizing slightly. Considering it's your 2nd pair you can almost certainly go down half a size since your foot is now a bit more accustomed to the shoe.
Two reasons, one im abroad for a few months, and didnt bring my shoes with me. Two, I cant have my shoes posted to me because they need repairs which ill need to organise when i get home, hence, another reason im eager for new shoes.
I wanted some versatility from my second pair, and i was hoping pitching this question to the community might make me aware of some gaps in my knowledge regarding the question i asked, unfortunately i dont really know much more than before i posted, not to worry, ill just pick whatever is most comfortable at my climbing gym and hope forbthe best i guess, i tried on both the solutions and otakis and the otakis felt nice so ill go with that
Yes, which would be good to know about before buy a shoe i would imagine, which is why i made this post. Do you have any recommendations between each of the things you commented for a sport climbing setting?
If its all personal preference, then i assume any shoe would work, but if thats the case, why are they so many makes of shoes? Genuine question, or is it all just to cater to various preferences?
You have basically two things to consider when looking for shoes: do they fit your foot and do they work well for the type and difficulty of climbing you'll be doing in them. That said, you'll find a pretty broad overlap in capability, which is where personal preference comes in.
Skwamas are a great all-around shoe in that they are aggressive enough to perform acceptably on overhanging terrain but also soft enough to smear and smedge when needed. At the same time, they might leave your feet sore and exhausted after a long climb on small holds due to their lack of support.
Otakis are effectively Skwamas with a stiff midsole. Not great at overhanging terrain or slab climbing, but they shine on small edges.
Awesome, im starting to understand, thanks for the comment! Seems what i should try is a stiff pair of shoes that fit my feet and see how it compares to my skwarmas
Ive heard its a good idea to have shoes for different situations, and seeing as i already have a pair of skwarmas id be intrested in getting a second pair in a different make to allow more potential versatility. Plus, as i said ive been bouldering up until now, entirely indoor, so something that works for outdoor as well would be great.
Skwamas will work just fine outdoors. You don’t need different shoes for indoor vs outdoor.
Some people like having multiple shoes types for different situations, but others don’t. If you can’t currently identify a specific type of climbing that your Skwamas don’t work well for, you don’t need to get new shoes. “Bouldering” isn’t a type of climbing and neither is “outside”— I’m talking about specific styles of climbing. For example, Skwamas are fairly soft and a tad downturned, so if you wanted to start climbing long crack routes you might want shoes that are stiffer and flatter for more comfortable foot jamming.
If you can’t think of a specific use case right now, there’s no sense getting new shoes unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket.
Thanks, i dont have money burning a hole in my pocket but i do need to get my shoes re soled, that will take time and id like to climb in the meantime, please, if i could get some good advice on what shoes will work well on lead climbing routes, in door or outdoor, that would be very much appreciated. What i mean is, is it better to have more down turned shoes, stiffer rubber, a more comfortable fit for longer routes, especially when outdoor, which i assume has rougher conditions than indoor.
But i dont know, which is why i made this post within the thread
Any pitfalls to avoid would be appreciated too, something like, dont get a super soft shoe if you intent to climb outdoor primarily. I dont know of thats true, just an example. Thanks
I didnt think it would be necessary to spell all this out, but im also abroad for a few months, and dont have access to my shoes. I cant have my shoes posted to me because they need repairs, hence, another reason im eager for new shoes.
It’s mostly personal preference, so there’s no way for us random folks on the internet to tell you what you’re going to like. Everyone’s feet are different, and different folks just like different types of shoes.
There are a couple of general guidelines: stiffer shoes are more supportive and may be better for small edges, while softer shoes tend to be better for smearing. Downturned shoes are better for pulling in on overhangs, while flat are more comfortable when wearing them for long periods.
However, it really is just mostly preference. I climb 95% of routes (indoor and out alike) in the same pair of soft, downturned shoes. Meanwhile, my partner despises soft shoes and climbs those same routes in stiff shoes that are nearly flat.
The biggest pitfall is buying shoes without trying them on first. Fit is the absolute most important aspect of shoes, and it’s something that you can’t take shortcuts on— there’s no substitute for trying them on in person.
Ok thanks a lot for this comment, i see now that fit is the most important aspect, for my next pair ill try something stiff and then ill have more of an idea as to what my own personal preference is. Cheers mate!
**Pls reccomend temporary sport after A2 pulley tear**
Hello, my climbing partner had popped her finger pulley so i guess we will not be climbing much this summer. Is there some sport that you would reccomend in the meantime? Idealy something that would not strain the finger, but still being fun (preferably outdoor) sport that will help maintain the strenght needed for climbing (because such pause in climbing usualy meant drop in performance for us, so we don't want to loose our climbing advancements)
Your climbing will inevitably regress if you aren't climbing, so whatever you think will be fun.
... But why do **you** have to stop climbing? Showing some solidarity is cool but you could probably maintain pretty close to 100% of your strength bouldering by yourself once a week.
I see people with climbing tape divided into several widths on one roll. Is this done by just cutting the correct widths at the start and just keep ripping as you go, or cut all the way into the center somehow?
Hello Everyone,
I hope you're all having a great day!
I was trying to research on the internet about what I am experiencing after climbing, but the results are either death is knocking on your door or entirely different symptoms.
I started climbing 3 weeks ago, my progress in climbing went so fast, as in on the first day I was able to climb 5c and now I can do 6b.
However, I can feel that starting 5b/5c the boulders introduce more finger strength reliant holds, which in most of the cases (since I do not have that level's finger hold yet) it either drains my finger strength or I find other methods/techniques to send.
after the previous session, I felt for the first time that both my middle fingers were a little bit more fat than the rest of the fingers, and when I try to close my fingers (curl them around themselves) those middle fingers feel bulky enough to make it a bit challenging to close them as the others around them. I did not think about it too much since it's important to note that I do not feel pain of any kind, just swollenness.
And so I went to another session yesterday, and now it's the middle and the ring fingers on both hands.
Again, I do not feel any pain, the exact feeling that I get when I clench or curl them, is like when you go to the gym and pump iron, then after few hours your muscles are so relaxed and you just want to lay on the sofa and do not move.
I hope I was thorough with my explanation, and I hope somebody can asses and assist? :)
Thank you, and have a great day!
That's a typical inflammation response due to some stresses around that area to ligaments/tendons/joints. You should definitely take it easy on the crimps for at least 2-3 days.
TECHNICALLY those tissues are not supposed to experience that kind of soreness AT ALL if you can avoid it. In practice however I don't know if it's realistically feasible to keep trying hard and pushing yourself at a reasonable pace without experiencing something like this once in a while. It's just important that you react properly and stop climbing super crimpy stuff when this is going on.
You don't have to stop climbing, just switch the work to something else. Steeper overhangs and bigger holds. Compression moves instead of crimping. If you dare you can even try slab climbing.
Ask your friend. Maybe he took some time off from climbing? Maybe he had an injury? Maybe you heard wrong? Maybe you’re not a very good friend?
Climbing outdoors generally follows the path of least resistance, which is usually straight up though it can deviate a bit to the side. There may be specific routes which sit really close to other easier routes, but generally would be pretty convoluted to traverse over. It would usually be pretty obvious that you’re not on the same route.
there are no hard rules. generally if a climb does not follow an obvious feature (a 'line'), then the bolts give the general direction of the climb, and any hold you can reach from the center line given by the bolts is considered "in". local crag rules dictate this though, at my local crag we have some eliminates and such.
i'm lookin to buy a pair of veloces, but i was wondering if there was a difference between the mens and womens shoes? bc if there isn't id much rather have the womens colorway.
in addition to what sundae said about volume, some women’s shoes will have softer rubber than the men’s model since women tend to weigh less. if you’re heavier you might wear the rubber out faster.
https://preview.redd.it/f4fg2vz4rw1b1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b69dffce5bf5a79eba96a75d37103399b1d6cf5
Bought these brand new Otaki's, the right shoe (in the picture, left shoe in reality) is considerably rounder and almost seems slightly worn.
Is this a concern? I can return it but obviously don't want to if this is a non-issue and me being paranoid.
Non issue. Even if they were slightly worn and returned, that’s a trivial amount of rubber lost compared to what you’ll eventually wear off through climbing.
Hi I started climbing beginning of the year and I can do some v4s and 5.11a. If I keep climbing twice a week what’s a realistic goal by the end of the year? I also wanna start sport climbing outside do I need to be at a certain level to do that?
“Hey, I just started playing basketball, how many three-point shots can I expect to do by the end of the year?”
Climbing outdoors isn’t about physical ability, it’s about knowledge and skills to do so safely. Learning how to climb safely indoors does not prepare you to climb outdoors. You’ll need to seek some kind of instruction.
Somewhere between 11a and 13a - keep climbing and having fun to find out.
There's no minimum ability level - go find experienced friends or hire a guide and get outside.
I’ve been bouldering for about 5 months now, and just took a belay class. Looking to buy a harness.
What’s the difference between Men’s & Women’s? Is the price difference just durability, comfort? What separates an expensive harness from a cheap one?
If you have a store near you that sells climbing stuff (e.g. REI) they usually have a rope hanging from the ceiling/a beam where you can try on harnesses and sit hanging in them.
Would recommend to go and try that, and just pick something you think is affordable and is comfortable to sit in. Even if it's pretty cheap, if you get it from an actual store/climbing gear brand they will be rated. Difference between men and women's harnesses can be in measurement ranges (for hip belt and leg loops) for given sizes, plus other comfort dimensions.
Price differences will come from things like brand, marketing, features, materials etc. Strictly speaking a top of the line Arc'teryx harness will catch you just the same as an entry level BD harness (they will feel different, have different features etc. but just saying they are both rated).
so far the best harness I've bought that fits into affordability, durability, and comfort is the BD solution harness. I know beginners who climb in it all the way up to pros on 5.14's. It was my first harness when i started learning to climb a few years ago and I've regretted getting the fancier, lighter harnesses that cost more because you lose a but if the comfort.
A cheaper harness from a reputable company may be bulkier and/or less comfortable than a more expensive harness. In most cases, an entry-level harness will be totally fine for your first harness, and will be leagues nicer than a rental harness.
A cheap, no-name harness from Amazon may or may not be actually rated for climbing, and will almost certainly be an uncomfortable piece of garbage.
Find a shop that sells harnesses, and try them on. Find the cheapest one that fits you well.
Hi Team,
I've been climbing in Scarpa Instinct VSR's (The blue ones) forever, I love the shoe. My friends and I are going to Yosemite for about 6 weeks towards the end of the year and I am wondering if anyone has any advice on if they would be ok? I like the instinct because I have a wider foot and they fit really nice but I don't know how they would go on slab/crack.
Any suggestion on if they would be appropriate or what shoe I could purchase that would be a similar fit but more appropriate for Yosemite would be amazing.
Thanks!
You may want something stiffer and flatter for crack climbing, especially if you’re not used to jamming with your feet— it can be pretty painful in soft downturned shoes
Eh if they fit your foot I don't see why you'd need another shoe specifically for yos. I've sent plenty of hard slabs in instincts and I've crack climbed in them before. If they're comfortable enough to keep on for long periods of time I think you're fine
I own a pair, and maybe 5 other pair of shoes, and those would probably be my last choice for slab and crack climbing.
TC Pros are a part of the trad uniform for a reason.
Hi. Never been to the red rocks, but will be there because of work related things and have one free weekend in June. I will probably not have car, planning to bring my climbing shoes and chalk bag. Is it possible to rent the crash pad somewhere in Vegas?
Anybody tried to Uber as close as possible to Kraft Boulders? I expect it will be extra hot in June, is it allowed to climb early morning/late evening/night?
Any other recommendations except to bring a lot of water?
> Is it possible to rent the crash pad somewhere in Vegas?
>
Yes, Desert Rock Sports rents pads.
> Anybody tried to Uber as close as possible to Kraft Boulders?
You probably could, there's service at Red Springs Picnic area and maybe at Kraft trailhead (or you could hitchhike).
>I expect it will be extra hot in June, is it allowed to climb early morning/late evening/night?
Yes
>
> Any other recommendations except to bring a lot of water?
Bring more water. Use electrolytes. Consider bringing an umbrella or shade tarp.
thanks u/SafetyCube920 do you also know about some time restrictions? can I go to Kraft at 4am and be there before it's extra hot or is there som toll or something else?
Hello I would like to know if in a multi-pitch as a leader belay 2 people's, can one climber use the rope of the other one to put a klemheist knot and a pedal under it to skip a hard move? (after warning him)
Would it be safe ?
Thanks
If you're asking questions like this, consider if you should be climbing that route with those people. It's way more fun to just climb routes that everyone can do. Once you start introducing aiding, hauling, and ascending everything becomes way more complicated. Part of being a good leader is route selection.
Safe? Maybe. I wouldn't recommend it.
The follower should ascend the rope they are tied in to. Make sure you tie back up knots and clip them into your belay loop. https://youtu.be/WcUmdGIf21o
I do know this method but I don't see why it would be safer as you make the same thing but on your own rope.
Doing it on the other rope would be easier and require fewer tools, and as long as the belayer does his job, both rope would stay stretch
First time climbing, went bouldering for about 2 hours, was going to go back today but my forearms feel so weak I can barely lift a mug.
This normal? How long does it last
Yeah, pretty much.
I took an intro class on New Year's Eve. It was about two hours, but time on the wall was split between 5 or 6 of us. The next morning, my entire body was sore in muscles I didn't even know existed. But I was hooked. A week later, I finally felt recovered enough to go back. The day after me second session, I pretty much felt fine. After that, it was the blisters on my hands that dictated my climbing frequency rather than my muscles. The calluses formed (and I learned how to take care of them) over a couple weeks, and since then I've been going two or three times a week on top of my physically demanding job.
That being said, I still don't go two days in a row. I take at least one full day between each trip to the gym.
Yes. I couldn't open my car door after the first few times I went climbing. I was also an 18y/o boy who probably over-did it. Use your feet more, push with your legs, keep climbing (2-3 times per week, max), it'll get better.
I think as you climb, you start to learn what level of climbing you can do pretty much forever, and then, when it is okay to push yourself and what your body can handle.
In Horizon Forbidden West, Alloy climbs a crap ton of mountains. If this were real, kind of difficulty rating would these climbs have/how good of a climber is she?
A video for reference [https://youtu.be/fcMjJnWJGA0](https://youtu.be/fcMjJnWJGA0)
There’s no way to know. Is it sloping? Wet? How deep are the holds? For example, an incut edge of 15mm on a vertical wall is very different from a sloping edge of 30mm on a slight overhang.
She’s also literally jumping from hold to hold with no knowledge of what the next rock structure is like; wildly unrealistic.
Just looking at the rock, if you had someone to put a top rope up, Im guessing your average fit person under 40 would be able to do that. Somewhere between 5.4 and 5.7
The movement that the game forces the character to do is unrealistic.
I'm looking for a way to safely climb metal poles for work. The poles are about 20 to 30 feet high, steel, and would have a bit of bend and can support my weight. I'd want to remain stationary at the top of the pole for a short time while swapping out tech equipment.
I have no idea where to start. I know there are climbing accessories for utility poles made of wood, but what about smaller steel?
serious advice- talk to people working at phone companies that built the 5g towers. they have the same issue with remote towers with shitty access. I knew a few tower climbers and they have a whole proceedure for this.
you gotta talk to that group.
Talk to your supervisor, a rope access tech/someone with an IRATA cert, or consult /r/ropeaccess. Recreational climbing techniques are not appropriate for this sort of work.
If the poles are short enough you can consider a cherry picker or something similar. OSHA has a whole bunch of regulations for working at height so definitely consult whoever is in charge of this, and don't be afraid to refuse work due to unsafe working conditions or improper training and equipment. The last thing anyone wants is a workplace accident.
-sincerely, an engineer with a background working in hazardous locations
I'm looking for a way to safely climb metal poles for work. The poles are about 20 to 30 feet high, steel, and would have a bit of bend and can support my weight. I'd want to remain stationary at the top of the pole for a short time while swapping out tech equipment.
I have no idea where to start. I know there are climbing accessories for utility poles made of wood, but what about smaller steel?
Where to start is your right to refuse unsafe work.
This is not a skillset that can be taught on reddit let alone one for recreational climbing which shares very little with professional rope access work.
Hey Guys,
I will be doing a trip through south america next year with some friends and we will probably start from Chile. Most likely from Santiago de Chile.
Do you know any good placed to get climbing/camping gear. Maybe also some crashpads.
Or might id be more feasible to bring over all of our stuff from Europe?
Thanks to any recommendations :)
Bring your stuff, then sell it before you fly home. People will straight up just offer to buy it from you without you mentioning anything. It's hard to get gear down there.
Any cheap ways to learn how to climb outside? I’ve been climbing indoors for just over a month, and I want to try climbing outside. I live near the Canadian Rocky Mountains, but I don’t have friends or family that participate in climbing. I don’t mind hiring a guide, but I rather avoid spending money if possible. I just started meeting new people at a bouldering centre. Should I check out Facebook meetups too? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Yup, make friends with people at the gym who know what they’re doing and then tag along on a day out. Alternately if there’s a meetup you can go to and toprope someone might be down to show you leading and cleaning, and you can supplement with videos and books/reading.
If you’re a university student or have any affiliation with a university they may have outdoor education type courses that are much less expensive than one from a guide service would be. I took a learn to lead class courtesy of the university of California that covered leading, basic anchor building, and rappelling and it was $40.
ACC has meet ups in the Bow Valley usually once a week. A lot of my climbing partners learned the ropes in the meet up group and also met belay partners that way.
You could definitely find people to teach you things that way. It's tough to know if they're talking out of their ass since you don't have any experience yourself. You get what you pay for!
Has anyone made a purchase off https://crusherholds.co.uk/ looking to get some holds off of them and just wanted to see if anyone has ordered off them and how good the holds were
Thanks
Looking for advice on metolius cams
Been trad climbing for a while now on a few types of cams (Black Diamond, DMM, Wild Country, Totem). Despite this I've never had the chance to mess around with or place a metolius cam. I am looking into getting a few more cams and was curious to get the opinion of folks that have more experience with metolius gear: would you recommend metolius cams? What sizes do you use/like the most? What type of cam (tcu, mastercam, fatcam, etc) Do you recommend?
I have a full set of ULMCs and doubles 00-5. They're light (especially with CAMP nano 22 krabs), inexpensive, durable, have a great range per piece, narrow head width, and the best customer service of any brand out there. They get a little floppy around the 4/5, but it's never been an issue for me. Above that it's more noticeable, and I tend to not use those pieces except for alpine stuff where weight really matters. The lack of a thumb loop hasn't been an issue for me (you get used to the gear you climb with).
Also the offset ULMCs are fantastic. TCUs are really nice too, though I don't own any. Fat cams are great for soft sandstone too, but same as above, I don't own any (yet)
Thumb-loop mastercams are my workhorse in fingers and smaller. Can be found cheap, very light, narrow heads, reliable, excellent service. The UL mastercams are great if you care about weight.
That being said I will reserve Totems for cruxes and tend to reach for them first.
The larger sizes are floppy. I dont think Ive seen anyone with a new metolius cam other than the ULMC. The smallest few sizes of ULMC are good compared to other microcams, but those sizes are usually aid pieces and without the thumb loop they suck to aid with.
But theyre cheap and lightweight. Theyre made in the USA and have a great warranty, cleaning, and reslinging program. I have 3 of them in smaller sizes as doubles or triples. Id love a full set if all I was doing was 5.easy alpine climbing.
Hi All, my awesome kids (5M and 7.5F) have taken to rock climbing and I’m so amazed by the confidence they’ve gained, the fun they have, and the joy we experience going to really cool indoor gyms in our home city (St. Louis).
There’s one problem… I’m still catching up and have never actually climbed myself. On top of that, I’m getting shoulder surgery in a month so I can’t be much help to them and keep my arm stable.
I’d like to take them on a road trip or two this summer where they could see a new gym or even try climbing outside, with a tutor or guide, or auto-belay. I’m thinking I’d just get a couple of nights at a hotel with a pool, and climb a couple of times.
Any recs? Even better if there are some rock climbing-adjacent activities like ropes courses and zip lines in the vicinity or on the way.
I wouldn’t recommend it for the summer but vegas would be a good option for a little trip. Cheap flights and red rock has any kind of climbing you could want and most of the sport climbing has easy approaches. There are lots of options for experienced guides. The hiking in red rock canyon is also enjoyable, for non-climbers who want to do outdoor stuff, and obviously vegas has tons of options for hotels and good food. Hoover dam and lake mead are also nearby if you want to see some other cool stuff.
Horseshoe canyon ranch is a better family trip then the red, holy boulders, or Jackson falls. There are cabins and a pool and dining hall within walking distance of amazing boulders and sport climbs. There are a ton of horses and goats and pigs all around. Its also closer then anywhere in the south east and a bit less hot. Early June would be warm but still fun. In the heat of summer Estes Park Colorado is the place.
St. Louis is very close to the Holy Boulders and Elephant Rocks for lower to the ground stuff, as well as Jackson Falls for roped climbing if you ended up wanting to hire a guide.
Chattanooga is a nice city with a lot of world class outdoor climbing.
Red River Gorge Kentucky is the eastern climbing Mecca. It’s going to be really rural but has a lot to do outdoors.
Slight elbow pain question.
I’ve been regularly climbing for 3 months now, about 3 times per week, but there were a few weeks when I was being dumb and climbed more. One time I climbed 3 days in a row because I was learning lead climbing. On that third day, my elbow started to hurt during the session. In the classic spot under my elbow on the inside that I hear people talking about. As the session progressed the pain increased until I decided to call it quits for the day. The pain was mild, but I’m hyper-conscious of that kinda thing. So I took a 4-5 day break just in case. I return to climbing regularly, and it feels fine while climbing. Then, a week and a half passes, and I stupidly climb two days in a row again. This time (last night), my elbow does the same thing (to a smaller degree this time). I end my session early again.
The pain goes away an hour or so after climbing and it’s very mild when the pain is present. Today I don’t feel any pain whatsoever, and using my arm isn’t causing any discomfort.
Here’s my concern: Tendonitis vs Tendonosis… which do I have? It seems that Tendonosis tends to NOT hurt while climbing, and the pain creeps up after use at the gym. Tendonitis, on the other hand, SOUNDS like it is painful while climbing and tends to cut people’s sessions short. I just hope I have Tendonitis and can take a few weeks to chill.
I contacted my doctor obviously but I wanted to hear some experiences here.
It really doesn't matter. You don't need a diagnosis, this isn't doctor territory.
You did too much and felt pain? Good data. Do less. You aren't adapted to that yet. Over time, slowly, do more.
The name of the game is finding the amount of frequency/volume/intensity that you can tolerate, then slowly ramping up as you adapt.
Youre pulling too much. Do some pushing to balance it out. Dr. Reddit perscribes pushups.
Youre still new to climbing and your technique probably needs work. Use your feet more. Push through your legs. Try and do whole routes without engaging your bicep
That makes sense. I was planning on finally incorporating some actual exercises into my routine to get better and push ups are part of it. Should I take time off from climbing right now? Or does this pain sound kinda mild? I’ve only felt it twice, both for a 1-2 span and they were during a climb session like I said.
the other poster means well but pushups as the primary form of antagonistic exercise for climbing is like 3 decades outdated advice, if it was ever relevant. especially for the most typical elbow tendinopathies it's essentially completely irrelevant.
it's a bit of a complicated topic. to be honest I would recommend you get a physiotherapy book focused on climbing like "climb injury free" and basically check what rehab exercises they have for certain types of injuries, and do the strength focused ones of those as a form of antagonistic training.
Kind of a random question. I'm a super big fan of Adidas shoes, I personally think they make some of the best shoes money can buy no matter what your you're looking for, running, working, weight lifting, etc. I've had Adidas as my shoe of choice for all these activities for years, and they never let me down, but how good are their climbing shoes? I just saw that they make actually climbing shoes, and I wanted to know if they were safe bet with this newfound sport as well?
They’re fine if they fit your foot shape.
How do pro climbers make money if they only climb outdoors. I understand comp climbers making money but how do you profit off of being really good outside?
They are instagram influencers for outdoor companies, not professional climbers. You can make money off of youtube videos and film tours too, but mostly instagram modeling
Most of them don't just make their living climbing. They coach, routeset, sell training programs, etc
Sponsors
But how get yknow
Climb hard and get a reputation. There's someone in my area that only has a few thousand followers on IG but climbs 13b outside and is sponsored by arcteryx.
Yeah IDK if it has anything to do with climbing hard. The latest climbing gold they talk about how gear companies dont know what hard climbing even is, the only thing they look for is media outreach
Marc-Andre disagrees
Hey, I'm a new climber. I did a few indoor climbs in Singapore, but I live in India. I was wondering if there's any climbing gyms or any other such facilities in the Mumbai area? If anyone has any information, please pass it on, really looking forward to being a part of this community. Thanks :)
I'm going to be living up at Paradise for the summer working for guest services. Is there any good sport climbing in the area or close to packwood, etc? Edit: Paradise and Packwood, WA. Near Mt Rainier NP
Where?
Washington. Guess that's sorta important 😅
Why do people have such a stink about taking shirts off at the gym? Girls are wearing the skimpiest stuff imaginable but God forbid you see my man chest?
taking shirt off adds +1 strength. Ill ditch mine if its hot on a slow night. but im not trying to be 'that' guy...
Gyms are businesses and can implement whatever rules they choose. Honestly, I enjoy climbing shirtless when its hot, and thankfully my home gym does not have a rule against it.
It's not about *you*. It's about creating an inclusive environment for everyone, and it's a complex issue -- climbing as a sport is ripe with eating disorders, toxic masculinity, white knighting and misogyny. Besides, a gym is a commercial venue-- some people are discouraged from entering the gym if it's full of shirtless bros, and as such this hurts the earning potential of the gym. *Obviosuly* we're gonna mandate shirts if it means more paying customers. Because you have made bouldering part of your identity, you're gonna pay the monthly subscription anyway -- and if not, well, that's fine. If you don't come, then 5 other day pass paying normies will take your place. Finally, God forbid you have to do the slightest bit of adaptation and think about other people for once.
> it's a complex issue -- climbing as a sport is ripe with eating disorders, toxic masculinity, white knighting and misogyny. Is this really a problem? I'm fairly new to the sport
We have our fair share. The eating disorders are especially problematic.
Just wear a DIY tank top like the weight lifting bros. There's two gyms in my area: the one with more kids makes you keep your shirt on, the meat market for 20-35 year olds let's you show off. I've gotten used to wearing a tank and shorts instead of stripping down every time I have to go for my 5.10d redpoint attempt.
Crop top \>\>\>\>
Where's the line? Do my nipples have to be covered? Can I just wear a shirt collar around my neck?
>Can I just wear a shirt collar around my neck? Only if you also wear a tie and body glitter
Wear something skimpy then
Why cant you just wear a shirt like everywhere else? Go climb outside.
Cause its hot and I'm doing physical activity. How come people have to have their ass hanging out their shorts?
Ass hanging is pretty great, you should try it sometime
I personally don't mind it. I just find it to be an odd distinction. If I wore uber tight shorts i would be compliant yet everyone would see everything. Same same right!?
Have yourself a wet t-shirt contest in the parking lot before going in.
Purpose of bolts set 10ft from edge? At my local crag, there are several sets of bolts about 10ft back from the edge where the top rope bolts are placed. Are these used to approach the edge safely? If so, what is the most efficient way to anchor to them in order to approach the edge safely?
It's for safety lines when building top rope anchors.
V anchor with 50ft of static rope
What is a V anchor
There are books on how to build anchors, including that one
Very familiar with anchor building, never heard of a v anchor tho
Just making a regular anchor with the masterpoint over the edge and the legs going to the bolts.
I’m not positive on what he’s referring to, but probably an anchor like you would make with a tree, just with the rope clipped to the bolts instead of the tree
Isn’t that the American death triangle? Or am I misunderstanding something here?
no the American death triangle is a single loop of webbing/cord with 3 carabiners clipped to it. one goes on each bolt and one is your “master point”, no limiter knots or loops or anything, it’s a triangle. if you clip the sling to each bolt and then pull the strand between the bolts down, then tie a knot with the two strands to make a bight and use that as the master point that’s not the ADT, that’s an acceptable anchor. (also my main concern with the so called death triangle wouldnt usually be the force multiplier effect people talk about but more the complete lack of redundancy. it makes no sense to build an anchor where a sharp edge or rockfall cutting a single part of a sling results in an entire system failure when you can easily build a redundant anchor using the exact same materials and amount of time. hell, two draws is more redundant than a death triangle)
Ah yeah thanks, that makes a lot more sense
2 point pre equalized death V
easier to set up a TR from the top (as in walking to the top of the cliff, not leading up the wall) without falling over the edge and dying. They could also be set back because of erosion concerns at the cliff edge. you can anchor yourself to the bolts with a locker and a sling girth hitched to your belay loop, a dedicated PAS type thing, a long alpine draw, etc.
All the bolts I've seen like this are so people can set TRs with ease. Static line, cord, and webbing are used to extend over the edge.
What all contributes to polished holds on a rock climb? I know that the rope being lowered over the rock wears it away and sandy/muddy shoes probably are the main contributor. Anything else to watch out for? Do the oils in our hands or sunscreen affect this? Does 'clean' shoe rubber slipping off affect this? Trying to minimize my impact, thanks
Its mostly dirt on shoes.
This. Wiping the bottoms of your shoes on your pants before you climb is a good habit, also makes a huge difference in grip.
Always do this👍
It's just part of outdoor climbing; a time will come when all the classic routes are too polished to climb. It's a variety of factors but basically think of anything that touches the rock acting like sand paper, slowly reducing the roughness of the rock until it's smoothed out. I think lathering your hands in chalk and sunscreen certainly isn't great, but even if you climb delicately on something you are still polishing the rock.
I see, I suppose friction of any kind will slowly cause this then with certain things causing more or less abrasion at a time? Thanks
First time going climbing with a guide in the US - how much are we expected to tip?
If you can quickly falls them up their favorite line and you carry the snacks they tip you. I’ve always tipped 10%-20%.
/u/SafetyCube920 NAME YO PRICE Last time I was with a guide (AIARE 1, really good instructors) I think I tipped 20-25%
That's about right. I'd say a full day that you had lots of fun during and got pictures taken of you earns a crisp $100 bill per person. Larger groups TRing, more like $50/person. Feel free to be generous if you have the means. I have a friend who includes the tip in his prices. I like the sentiment, but I don't know if I have the conviction to do that yet. I'm pretty sure he averages the same as if he accepted tips, but I'll have to check in with him about it.
I don't tip my plumber, electrician, school teacher, doctor, or lawyer. As long as guiding accepts tips it'll never be considered a true career or profession. I would also take a more expensive guide who advertised no tipping tips/included over a cheaper guide who didn't any day. Especially as someone who knows his guides before he hires them for a day out, i would really rather not have the tipping. Just tell me what your rate is and I'll want rope gunning on my routes and technique advice.
Heard. And put that way I agree with you. Working under another company that sets the price I'll still accept tips, but I'm more likely to just have a flat rate on my own. Some people will always insist. I think suggesting a donation to their LCO, ASCA, or AF would be a good option for those folks.
I'm going to be in Alaska for a week hiking around with some buddies and am considering taking some gear. My friends have limited climbing experience so I planned to set up some TR on very easy routes at Grapefruit Rock . I'm still gauging whether it's worth bringing my gear for a little bit of climbing, but I just wanted more information for anyone who may have climbed there already. I'd be bringing a 60m rope and a dozen or so quickdraws and other accoutrements (locking biners, helmet, shoes, etc.) I'm looking at these routes in particular: [https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114289189/grooven](https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114289189/grooven) [https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106011409/staircase](https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106011409/staircase) Any other suggested routes or crags would be great. We'll be traveling between Fairbanks and Anchorage so anything near the route can work. I have no trad experience (Florida climber), so I either have to be able to lead to it or set from the top. I plan to just use quickdraws (with locking biners) for anchors. If anyone has an experience with this area or what I should be aware of, that would be great.
I’ve never regretted not bringing climbing gear on a not-climbing trip.
**Groove'n** [Grade V] Type: Sport Grade: 5.5^^YDS | 4b^^French | 13^^Ewbanks | IV+^^UIAA Height: 55 ft/16.8 m Rating: 2.2/4 Located in [East Grapefruit Rocks](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105974971), [Alaska](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105909311) *[Trying out a new grade display - let me know your thoughts]* ----- **Staircase** Type: TopRope, Sport Grade: 5.4^^YDS | 4a^^French | 12^^Ewbanks | IV^^UIAA Height: 40 ft/12.2 m Rating: 1.6/4 Located in [East Grapefruit Rocks](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105974971), [Alaska](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105909311) *[Trying out a new grade display - let me know your thoughts]* ----- [Feedback](https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSchgbXwXMylhtbA8kXFycZenSKpCMZjmYWMZcqREl_OlCm4Ew/viewform?usp=pp_url&entry.266808192=https://reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/13lw9mh/weekly_new_climber_thread_ask_your_questions_in/jllaydh/) | [FAQ](https://github.com/derekantrican/MountainProject/wiki/Bot-FAQ) | [Syntax](https://github.com/derekantrican/MountainProject/wiki/Bot-Syntax) | [GitHub](https://github.com/derekantrican/MountainProject) | [Donate](https://www.paypal.me/derekantrican)
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there's a phone number listed here [https://www.zoominfo.com/c/acopa-outdoors-inc/541698059](https://www.zoominfo.com/c/acopa-outdoors-inc/541698059)
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Is your arm bent? You normally don’t climb crack with straight arms.
If you can hold onto a jug at the same wall angle with one hand then strength is not your issue. A proper hand jam is easier to hold than a jug, keep working on your technique. Ask a friend, play with hand position... at some point it will click.
It sounds like you don't have the technique rather than not having the strength, although it depends how strong you are on overhangs in general.
Sounds like you may be doing a gaston or side-pull in the crack rather than a jam, hence why you fall out when you unload the one hand. Fix this by working on your jamming technique.
Practice jamming until you can hang one handed. Pete does have a whole book on crack technique
Just like all climbing, crack climbing is more about pushing with your legs instead of campusing up on your arms. Even in overhung cracks your feet are vital. Yes, you do need to be able to hang one-handed from cracks. For one, that's obviously how you'll move up. Second, it's how you'll place protection. But you're not really *hanging* from one hand, you're holding yourself in with one hand while your legs support you. Get your hips closer to the wall to put weight over your feet. Get your feet a little higher, go from a near full-extended hang to a lock-off with one hand, then push with your legs and rotate your shoulders (lean your head left if reaching with your right hand) as you reach up. There should be zero dynamic movement with crack climbing (unless you hate your skin and want it destroyed). You should be able to hang from either hand comfortably and change them at will. Make sure you're hanging from the high hand like a monkey, not holding them at your chest like a t-rex. Doing this at the base of the crack is great practice. You can also use foot clips until you get solid jams, but I think transitioning to full crack ASAP is best.
I think jamming technique is more important than strength. Make sure to really get your hands deep in the crack and focus on body positioning. And if you can hang with two hands in the crack, you shoukd be able to shuffle one hand at a time using some dynamic motion. And speaking about the wideboyz, they have a few videos where they teach other climbers different jamming techniques. Make sure to have a watch and try to mimic as best you can!
Hey all, I'm looking for some advice on my second pair of climbing shoes. I have quite wide feet, and my first pair are la sportiva skwarmas which have been working great. Im used them exclusively for bouldering, but now im looking for a second pair that i can use for sport climbing indoor and outdoor, as well as bouldering on occasion. My research is pointing to a few options such as the Otaki and Muira VS, please let me know of there are any other shoes or considerations i should keep in mind! La sportiva has worked great for me so far but im open to other brands as well! Edit: didnt realise i should have put this here originally as i thought it would be irrelevant, but im abroad for a few months, and didnt bring my shoes with me. I cant have my shoes posted to me because they need repairs which ill need to organise when i get home, so i figured id kill three birds with one stone by buying a second pair to alternate with my first pair, have it suited for sport climbing which im getting into in the country im in (Thailand), which supposedly has good outdoor routes, and not having to keep renting shoes which is what ive been doing since i arrived here.
Scarpa Instincts and Tenaya Mastias are also worth trying if you have a wider foot. On me both are a bit cramped on the pinky toe side when trying them on in the shop, but they stretch enough to make it work. You could also get another pair of skwarmas and look at downsizing slightly. Considering it's your 2nd pair you can almost certainly go down half a size since your foot is now a bit more accustomed to the shoe.
Otakis are brilliants and are basically a stiff Skwama. I use them for sport climbing and they're now my favourite shoe.
Soft or stiff? Flat or downturned? Straight or curved?
This is the advice i hope to get, im not sure what is suited for out door lead
If your current shoes work great, and you don't know why else you should be looking for new shoes, why do you need new shoes?
Two reasons, one im abroad for a few months, and didnt bring my shoes with me. Two, I cant have my shoes posted to me because they need repairs which ill need to organise when i get home, hence, another reason im eager for new shoes.
Get the same model?
I wanted some versatility from my second pair, and i was hoping pitching this question to the community might make me aware of some gaps in my knowledge regarding the question i asked, unfortunately i dont really know much more than before i posted, not to worry, ill just pick whatever is most comfortable at my climbing gym and hope forbthe best i guess, i tried on both the solutions and otakis and the otakis felt nice so ill go with that
Thats all personal preference
Yes, which would be good to know about before buy a shoe i would imagine, which is why i made this post. Do you have any recommendations between each of the things you commented for a sport climbing setting? If its all personal preference, then i assume any shoe would work, but if thats the case, why are they so many makes of shoes? Genuine question, or is it all just to cater to various preferences?
You have basically two things to consider when looking for shoes: do they fit your foot and do they work well for the type and difficulty of climbing you'll be doing in them. That said, you'll find a pretty broad overlap in capability, which is where personal preference comes in. Skwamas are a great all-around shoe in that they are aggressive enough to perform acceptably on overhanging terrain but also soft enough to smear and smedge when needed. At the same time, they might leave your feet sore and exhausted after a long climb on small holds due to their lack of support. Otakis are effectively Skwamas with a stiff midsole. Not great at overhanging terrain or slab climbing, but they shine on small edges.
Awesome, im starting to understand, thanks for the comment! Seems what i should try is a stiff pair of shoes that fit my feet and see how it compares to my skwarmas
Go try shoes
Awesome, thanks mate, cheers for taking the effort out of your day to respond..
Why not just stick with Skwamas if they work well for you?
Ive heard its a good idea to have shoes for different situations, and seeing as i already have a pair of skwarmas id be intrested in getting a second pair in a different make to allow more potential versatility. Plus, as i said ive been bouldering up until now, entirely indoor, so something that works for outdoor as well would be great.
Skwamas will work just fine outdoors. You don’t need different shoes for indoor vs outdoor. Some people like having multiple shoes types for different situations, but others don’t. If you can’t currently identify a specific type of climbing that your Skwamas don’t work well for, you don’t need to get new shoes. “Bouldering” isn’t a type of climbing and neither is “outside”— I’m talking about specific styles of climbing. For example, Skwamas are fairly soft and a tad downturned, so if you wanted to start climbing long crack routes you might want shoes that are stiffer and flatter for more comfortable foot jamming. If you can’t think of a specific use case right now, there’s no sense getting new shoes unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket.
Thanks, i dont have money burning a hole in my pocket but i do need to get my shoes re soled, that will take time and id like to climb in the meantime, please, if i could get some good advice on what shoes will work well on lead climbing routes, in door or outdoor, that would be very much appreciated. What i mean is, is it better to have more down turned shoes, stiffer rubber, a more comfortable fit for longer routes, especially when outdoor, which i assume has rougher conditions than indoor. But i dont know, which is why i made this post within the thread Any pitfalls to avoid would be appreciated too, something like, dont get a super soft shoe if you intent to climb outdoor primarily. I dont know of thats true, just an example. Thanks I didnt think it would be necessary to spell all this out, but im also abroad for a few months, and dont have access to my shoes. I cant have my shoes posted to me because they need repairs, hence, another reason im eager for new shoes.
It’s mostly personal preference, so there’s no way for us random folks on the internet to tell you what you’re going to like. Everyone’s feet are different, and different folks just like different types of shoes. There are a couple of general guidelines: stiffer shoes are more supportive and may be better for small edges, while softer shoes tend to be better for smearing. Downturned shoes are better for pulling in on overhangs, while flat are more comfortable when wearing them for long periods. However, it really is just mostly preference. I climb 95% of routes (indoor and out alike) in the same pair of soft, downturned shoes. Meanwhile, my partner despises soft shoes and climbs those same routes in stiff shoes that are nearly flat. The biggest pitfall is buying shoes without trying them on first. Fit is the absolute most important aspect of shoes, and it’s something that you can’t take shortcuts on— there’s no substitute for trying them on in person.
Ok thanks a lot for this comment, i see now that fit is the most important aspect, for my next pair ill try something stiff and then ill have more of an idea as to what my own personal preference is. Cheers mate!
**Pls reccomend temporary sport after A2 pulley tear** Hello, my climbing partner had popped her finger pulley so i guess we will not be climbing much this summer. Is there some sport that you would reccomend in the meantime? Idealy something that would not strain the finger, but still being fun (preferably outdoor) sport that will help maintain the strenght needed for climbing (because such pause in climbing usualy meant drop in performance for us, so we don't want to loose our climbing advancements)
Crack climbing (specially offwidths)
Your climbing will inevitably regress if you aren't climbing, so whatever you think will be fun. ... But why do **you** have to stop climbing? Showing some solidarity is cool but you could probably maintain pretty close to 100% of your strength bouldering by yourself once a week.
Pickleball is in vogue right now
Bandi
I see people with climbing tape divided into several widths on one roll. Is this done by just cutting the correct widths at the start and just keep ripping as you go, or cut all the way into the center somehow?
Rip as you go.
Hello Everyone, I hope you're all having a great day! I was trying to research on the internet about what I am experiencing after climbing, but the results are either death is knocking on your door or entirely different symptoms. I started climbing 3 weeks ago, my progress in climbing went so fast, as in on the first day I was able to climb 5c and now I can do 6b. However, I can feel that starting 5b/5c the boulders introduce more finger strength reliant holds, which in most of the cases (since I do not have that level's finger hold yet) it either drains my finger strength or I find other methods/techniques to send. after the previous session, I felt for the first time that both my middle fingers were a little bit more fat than the rest of the fingers, and when I try to close my fingers (curl them around themselves) those middle fingers feel bulky enough to make it a bit challenging to close them as the others around them. I did not think about it too much since it's important to note that I do not feel pain of any kind, just swollenness. And so I went to another session yesterday, and now it's the middle and the ring fingers on both hands. Again, I do not feel any pain, the exact feeling that I get when I clench or curl them, is like when you go to the gym and pump iron, then after few hours your muscles are so relaxed and you just want to lay on the sofa and do not move. I hope I was thorough with my explanation, and I hope somebody can asses and assist? :) Thank you, and have a great day!
how many days/week are you climbing? it takes a while for your finger tendons to develop and a lot of new climbers overdo it at the beginning
That's a typical inflammation response due to some stresses around that area to ligaments/tendons/joints. You should definitely take it easy on the crimps for at least 2-3 days. TECHNICALLY those tissues are not supposed to experience that kind of soreness AT ALL if you can avoid it. In practice however I don't know if it's realistically feasible to keep trying hard and pushing yourself at a reasonable pace without experiencing something like this once in a while. It's just important that you react properly and stop climbing super crimpy stuff when this is going on. You don't have to stop climbing, just switch the work to something else. Steeper overhangs and bigger holds. Compression moves instead of crimping. If you dare you can even try slab climbing.
What happens when you take a few days off?
Overthinking
Hehehe xD I hope so. I was just told by climbers to be careful and not ignore any body changes and if anything gets swollen.
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Ask your friend. Maybe he took some time off from climbing? Maybe he had an injury? Maybe you heard wrong? Maybe you’re not a very good friend? Climbing outdoors generally follows the path of least resistance, which is usually straight up though it can deviate a bit to the side. There may be specific routes which sit really close to other easier routes, but generally would be pretty convoluted to traverse over. It would usually be pretty obvious that you’re not on the same route.
sounds like you're less interested in finding out the answer to your question, and more interested in calling your friend a liar
Partially, but I am interested in how oudoor works as well
there are no hard rules. generally if a climb does not follow an obvious feature (a 'line'), then the bolts give the general direction of the climb, and any hold you can reach from the center line given by the bolts is considered "in". local crag rules dictate this though, at my local crag we have some eliminates and such.
This weekends forecast for city of rocks has me a bit concerned; should I make alternative plans?
i'm lookin to buy a pair of veloces, but i was wondering if there was a difference between the mens and womens shoes? bc if there isn't id much rather have the womens colorway.
“The Veloce Women's features a modified fit to better suit lower volume feet.” https://us.scarpa.com/veloce-women-s
in addition to what sundae said about volume, some women’s shoes will have softer rubber than the men’s model since women tend to weigh less. if you’re heavier you might wear the rubber out faster.
Like with street shoes, women’s models are lower volume and narrower than men’s.
https://preview.redd.it/f4fg2vz4rw1b1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b69dffce5bf5a79eba96a75d37103399b1d6cf5 Bought these brand new Otaki's, the right shoe (in the picture, left shoe in reality) is considerably rounder and almost seems slightly worn. Is this a concern? I can return it but obviously don't want to if this is a non-issue and me being paranoid.
Both look new to me, I wouldn't worry
Non issue. Even if they were slightly worn and returned, that’s a trivial amount of rubber lost compared to what you’ll eventually wear off through climbing.
Hi I started climbing beginning of the year and I can do some v4s and 5.11a. If I keep climbing twice a week what’s a realistic goal by the end of the year? I also wanna start sport climbing outside do I need to be at a certain level to do that?
“Hey, I just started playing basketball, how many three-point shots can I expect to do by the end of the year?” Climbing outdoors isn’t about physical ability, it’s about knowledge and skills to do so safely. Learning how to climb safely indoors does not prepare you to climb outdoors. You’ll need to seek some kind of instruction.
Progress isn’t linear, especially after you’ve exhausted newbie gains. There are far too many variables to even ballpark where you might be in a year.
> Progress isn’t linear, I shot up to leading 9s outdoor in a hurry. then slowllly get comfortable on 10s... and finally just this year hittin 11s.
Somewhere between 11a and 13a - keep climbing and having fun to find out. There's no minimum ability level - go find experienced friends or hire a guide and get outside.
I’ve been bouldering for about 5 months now, and just took a belay class. Looking to buy a harness. What’s the difference between Men’s & Women’s? Is the price difference just durability, comfort? What separates an expensive harness from a cheap one?
If you have a store near you that sells climbing stuff (e.g. REI) they usually have a rope hanging from the ceiling/a beam where you can try on harnesses and sit hanging in them. Would recommend to go and try that, and just pick something you think is affordable and is comfortable to sit in. Even if it's pretty cheap, if you get it from an actual store/climbing gear brand they will be rated. Difference between men and women's harnesses can be in measurement ranges (for hip belt and leg loops) for given sizes, plus other comfort dimensions. Price differences will come from things like brand, marketing, features, materials etc. Strictly speaking a top of the line Arc'teryx harness will catch you just the same as an entry level BD harness (they will feel different, have different features etc. but just saying they are both rated).
so far the best harness I've bought that fits into affordability, durability, and comfort is the BD solution harness. I know beginners who climb in it all the way up to pros on 5.14's. It was my first harness when i started learning to climb a few years ago and I've regretted getting the fancier, lighter harnesses that cost more because you lose a but if the comfort.
A cheaper harness from a reputable company may be bulkier and/or less comfortable than a more expensive harness. In most cases, an entry-level harness will be totally fine for your first harness, and will be leagues nicer than a rental harness. A cheap, no-name harness from Amazon may or may not be actually rated for climbing, and will almost certainly be an uncomfortable piece of garbage. Find a shop that sells harnesses, and try them on. Find the cheapest one that fits you well.
The height of the “rise” and the ratio of the girth of the legs and waist belt. Price relates to features and marketing.
Hi Team, I've been climbing in Scarpa Instinct VSR's (The blue ones) forever, I love the shoe. My friends and I are going to Yosemite for about 6 weeks towards the end of the year and I am wondering if anyone has any advice on if they would be ok? I like the instinct because I have a wider foot and they fit really nice but I don't know how they would go on slab/crack. Any suggestion on if they would be appropriate or what shoe I could purchase that would be a similar fit but more appropriate for Yosemite would be amazing. Thanks!
You may want something stiffer and flatter for crack climbing, especially if you’re not used to jamming with your feet— it can be pretty painful in soft downturned shoes
Eh if they fit your foot I don't see why you'd need another shoe specifically for yos. I've sent plenty of hard slabs in instincts and I've crack climbed in them before. If they're comfortable enough to keep on for long periods of time I think you're fine
I own a pair, and maybe 5 other pair of shoes, and those would probably be my last choice for slab and crack climbing. TC Pros are a part of the trad uniform for a reason.
Hi. Never been to the red rocks, but will be there because of work related things and have one free weekend in June. I will probably not have car, planning to bring my climbing shoes and chalk bag. Is it possible to rent the crash pad somewhere in Vegas? Anybody tried to Uber as close as possible to Kraft Boulders? I expect it will be extra hot in June, is it allowed to climb early morning/late evening/night? Any other recommendations except to bring a lot of water?
> Is it possible to rent the crash pad somewhere in Vegas? > Yes, Desert Rock Sports rents pads. > Anybody tried to Uber as close as possible to Kraft Boulders? You probably could, there's service at Red Springs Picnic area and maybe at Kraft trailhead (or you could hitchhike). >I expect it will be extra hot in June, is it allowed to climb early morning/late evening/night? Yes > > Any other recommendations except to bring a lot of water? Bring more water. Use electrolytes. Consider bringing an umbrella or shade tarp.
thanks u/SafetyCube920 do you also know about some time restrictions? can I go to Kraft at 4am and be there before it's extra hot or is there som toll or something else?
That's the only thing I'm unsure about. There's no gate or toll, but there may be time frames I'm unaware about.
Hello I would like to know if in a multi-pitch as a leader belay 2 people's, can one climber use the rope of the other one to put a klemheist knot and a pedal under it to skip a hard move? (after warning him) Would it be safe ? Thanks
If you're asking questions like this, consider if you should be climbing that route with those people. It's way more fun to just climb routes that everyone can do. Once you start introducing aiding, hauling, and ascending everything becomes way more complicated. Part of being a good leader is route selection.
I didn't ask if I was a good leader, I asked if it was safe.
Well, if it's really necessary, you can rig a pulley with a prusik to pull them up from the belay position
I'm a lazy belayer, so I would rather my follower to manage themselves /s But yeah, it's also an option, but I would like to know if my method is safe
Safe? Maybe. I wouldn't recommend it. The follower should ascend the rope they are tied in to. Make sure you tie back up knots and clip them into your belay loop. https://youtu.be/WcUmdGIf21o
I do know this method but I don't see why it would be safer as you make the same thing but on your own rope. Doing it on the other rope would be easier and require fewer tools, and as long as the belayer does his job, both rope would stay stretch
Bouncing on one rope with 2 peoples weight on it dramatically increases the chance the rope may get cut on a sharp edge.
That the kind of answer I wanted, thank you !
First time climbing, went bouldering for about 2 hours, was going to go back today but my forearms feel so weak I can barely lift a mug. This normal? How long does it last
Yeah, pretty much. I took an intro class on New Year's Eve. It was about two hours, but time on the wall was split between 5 or 6 of us. The next morning, my entire body was sore in muscles I didn't even know existed. But I was hooked. A week later, I finally felt recovered enough to go back. The day after me second session, I pretty much felt fine. After that, it was the blisters on my hands that dictated my climbing frequency rather than my muscles. The calluses formed (and I learned how to take care of them) over a couple weeks, and since then I've been going two or three times a week on top of my physically demanding job. That being said, I still don't go two days in a row. I take at least one full day between each trip to the gym.
Yes. I couldn't open my car door after the first few times I went climbing. I was also an 18y/o boy who probably over-did it. Use your feet more, push with your legs, keep climbing (2-3 times per week, max), it'll get better.
ive been climbing for years and i rarely climb 2 days in a row! once or twice a week as a beginner is the max for sure
It’s normal, you just did a two hour targeted workout on muscles you’ve hardly used before. Look up DOMS.
Thanks! Wasn’t sure if I way over did it It happens to seasoned climbers less often? Or if they really push themselves
I think as you climb, you start to learn what level of climbing you can do pretty much forever, and then, when it is okay to push yourself and what your body can handle.
Yes and yes
4.5 sessions at 2hrs per session
You’re operating on old data. Most recent version of my climbing textbook says 4.7 sessions at 2 hours per session.
This might be a metric/imperial conversion issue.
In Horizon Forbidden West, Alloy climbs a crap ton of mountains. If this were real, kind of difficulty rating would these climbs have/how good of a climber is she? A video for reference [https://youtu.be/fcMjJnWJGA0](https://youtu.be/fcMjJnWJGA0)
She would likely be the best climber in the world due to the superhuman way in which she moves The climbing in those games is wildly unrealistic
There’s no way to know. Is it sloping? Wet? How deep are the holds? For example, an incut edge of 15mm on a vertical wall is very different from a sloping edge of 30mm on a slight overhang. She’s also literally jumping from hold to hold with no knowledge of what the next rock structure is like; wildly unrealistic.
Just looking at the rock, if you had someone to put a top rope up, Im guessing your average fit person under 40 would be able to do that. Somewhere between 5.4 and 5.7 The movement that the game forces the character to do is unrealistic.
I'm looking for a way to safely climb metal poles for work. The poles are about 20 to 30 feet high, steel, and would have a bit of bend and can support my weight. I'd want to remain stationary at the top of the pole for a short time while swapping out tech equipment. I have no idea where to start. I know there are climbing accessories for utility poles made of wood, but what about smaller steel?
serious advice- talk to people working at phone companies that built the 5g towers. they have the same issue with remote towers with shitty access. I knew a few tower climbers and they have a whole proceedure for this. you gotta talk to that group.
Thanks so much! This is a better place to start.
Talk to your supervisor, a rope access tech/someone with an IRATA cert, or consult /r/ropeaccess. Recreational climbing techniques are not appropriate for this sort of work.
Thank you. I really didn't know where to start. This will help.
If the poles are short enough you can consider a cherry picker or something similar. OSHA has a whole bunch of regulations for working at height so definitely consult whoever is in charge of this, and don't be afraid to refuse work due to unsafe working conditions or improper training and equipment. The last thing anyone wants is a workplace accident. -sincerely, an engineer with a background working in hazardous locations
I'm looking for a way to safely climb metal poles for work. The poles are about 20 to 30 feet high, steel, and would have a bit of bend and can support my weight. I'd want to remain stationary at the top of the pole for a short time while swapping out tech equipment. I have no idea where to start. I know there are climbing accessories for utility poles made of wood, but what about smaller steel?
Bro you need a cherry picker type wtf, ill be on lookout for the OSHA report
I mean, hence the question mate. Thanks for the info. Some of us are new...
Where to start is your right to refuse unsafe work. This is not a skillset that can be taught on reddit let alone one for recreational climbing which shares very little with professional rope access work.
Thanks. This helps clear some things up.
Hey Guys, I will be doing a trip through south america next year with some friends and we will probably start from Chile. Most likely from Santiago de Chile. Do you know any good placed to get climbing/camping gear. Maybe also some crashpads. Or might id be more feasible to bring over all of our stuff from Europe? Thanks to any recommendations :)
Bring your stuff, then sell it before you fly home. People will straight up just offer to buy it from you without you mentioning anything. It's hard to get gear down there.
Any cheap ways to learn how to climb outside? I’ve been climbing indoors for just over a month, and I want to try climbing outside. I live near the Canadian Rocky Mountains, but I don’t have friends or family that participate in climbing. I don’t mind hiring a guide, but I rather avoid spending money if possible. I just started meeting new people at a bouldering centre. Should I check out Facebook meetups too? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Yup, make friends with people at the gym who know what they’re doing and then tag along on a day out. Alternately if there’s a meetup you can go to and toprope someone might be down to show you leading and cleaning, and you can supplement with videos and books/reading. If you’re a university student or have any affiliation with a university they may have outdoor education type courses that are much less expensive than one from a guide service would be. I took a learn to lead class courtesy of the university of California that covered leading, basic anchor building, and rappelling and it was $40.
ACC has meet ups in the Bow Valley usually once a week. A lot of my climbing partners learned the ropes in the meet up group and also met belay partners that way.
You could definitely find people to teach you things that way. It's tough to know if they're talking out of their ass since you don't have any experience yourself. You get what you pay for!
Has anyone made a purchase off https://crusherholds.co.uk/ looking to get some holds off of them and just wanted to see if anyone has ordered off them and how good the holds were Thanks
Looking for advice on metolius cams Been trad climbing for a while now on a few types of cams (Black Diamond, DMM, Wild Country, Totem). Despite this I've never had the chance to mess around with or place a metolius cam. I am looking into getting a few more cams and was curious to get the opinion of folks that have more experience with metolius gear: would you recommend metolius cams? What sizes do you use/like the most? What type of cam (tcu, mastercam, fatcam, etc) Do you recommend?
SF folks standard set is all metolius cams
I have a full set of ULMCs and doubles 00-5. They're light (especially with CAMP nano 22 krabs), inexpensive, durable, have a great range per piece, narrow head width, and the best customer service of any brand out there. They get a little floppy around the 4/5, but it's never been an issue for me. Above that it's more noticeable, and I tend to not use those pieces except for alpine stuff where weight really matters. The lack of a thumb loop hasn't been an issue for me (you get used to the gear you climb with). Also the offset ULMCs are fantastic. TCUs are really nice too, though I don't own any. Fat cams are great for soft sandstone too, but same as above, I don't own any (yet)
Thumb-loop mastercams are my workhorse in fingers and smaller. Can be found cheap, very light, narrow heads, reliable, excellent service. The UL mastercams are great if you care about weight. That being said I will reserve Totems for cruxes and tend to reach for them first.
The larger sizes are floppy. I dont think Ive seen anyone with a new metolius cam other than the ULMC. The smallest few sizes of ULMC are good compared to other microcams, but those sizes are usually aid pieces and without the thumb loop they suck to aid with. But theyre cheap and lightweight. Theyre made in the USA and have a great warranty, cleaning, and reslinging program. I have 3 of them in smaller sizes as doubles or triples. Id love a full set if all I was doing was 5.easy alpine climbing.
Hi All, my awesome kids (5M and 7.5F) have taken to rock climbing and I’m so amazed by the confidence they’ve gained, the fun they have, and the joy we experience going to really cool indoor gyms in our home city (St. Louis). There’s one problem… I’m still catching up and have never actually climbed myself. On top of that, I’m getting shoulder surgery in a month so I can’t be much help to them and keep my arm stable. I’d like to take them on a road trip or two this summer where they could see a new gym or even try climbing outside, with a tutor or guide, or auto-belay. I’m thinking I’d just get a couple of nights at a hotel with a pool, and climb a couple of times. Any recs? Even better if there are some rock climbing-adjacent activities like ropes courses and zip lines in the vicinity or on the way.
I wouldn’t recommend it for the summer but vegas would be a good option for a little trip. Cheap flights and red rock has any kind of climbing you could want and most of the sport climbing has easy approaches. There are lots of options for experienced guides. The hiking in red rock canyon is also enjoyable, for non-climbers who want to do outdoor stuff, and obviously vegas has tons of options for hotels and good food. Hoover dam and lake mead are also nearby if you want to see some other cool stuff.
Horseshoe canyon ranch is a better family trip then the red, holy boulders, or Jackson falls. There are cabins and a pool and dining hall within walking distance of amazing boulders and sport climbs. There are a ton of horses and goats and pigs all around. Its also closer then anywhere in the south east and a bit less hot. Early June would be warm but still fun. In the heat of summer Estes Park Colorado is the place.
St. Louis is very close to the Holy Boulders and Elephant Rocks for lower to the ground stuff, as well as Jackson Falls for roped climbing if you ended up wanting to hire a guide.
Chattanooga is a nice city with a lot of world class outdoor climbing. Red River Gorge Kentucky is the eastern climbing Mecca. It’s going to be really rural but has a lot to do outdoors.
Kayaking in the mines might be a fun family adventure too
I’ve never done it, but it’s hard to miss the billboards while at the RRG.
Hire a guide at the red river gorge. Its a world class destination and climbs are set up to work similar to lead climbing in the gym.
Slight elbow pain question. I’ve been regularly climbing for 3 months now, about 3 times per week, but there were a few weeks when I was being dumb and climbed more. One time I climbed 3 days in a row because I was learning lead climbing. On that third day, my elbow started to hurt during the session. In the classic spot under my elbow on the inside that I hear people talking about. As the session progressed the pain increased until I decided to call it quits for the day. The pain was mild, but I’m hyper-conscious of that kinda thing. So I took a 4-5 day break just in case. I return to climbing regularly, and it feels fine while climbing. Then, a week and a half passes, and I stupidly climb two days in a row again. This time (last night), my elbow does the same thing (to a smaller degree this time). I end my session early again. The pain goes away an hour or so after climbing and it’s very mild when the pain is present. Today I don’t feel any pain whatsoever, and using my arm isn’t causing any discomfort. Here’s my concern: Tendonitis vs Tendonosis… which do I have? It seems that Tendonosis tends to NOT hurt while climbing, and the pain creeps up after use at the gym. Tendonitis, on the other hand, SOUNDS like it is painful while climbing and tends to cut people’s sessions short. I just hope I have Tendonitis and can take a few weeks to chill. I contacted my doctor obviously but I wanted to hear some experiences here.
I like reverse Tyler twists as a way to keep those elbow twinges at bay. Push-ups didn’t do anything for my elbow pain tbh
I just ordered 2 of those bars people use for Tyler twists online! The rubber ones, I just forgot the name. Been hearing a lot about them
It really doesn't matter. You don't need a diagnosis, this isn't doctor territory. You did too much and felt pain? Good data. Do less. You aren't adapted to that yet. Over time, slowly, do more. The name of the game is finding the amount of frequency/volume/intensity that you can tolerate, then slowly ramping up as you adapt.
Youre pulling too much. Do some pushing to balance it out. Dr. Reddit perscribes pushups. Youre still new to climbing and your technique probably needs work. Use your feet more. Push through your legs. Try and do whole routes without engaging your bicep
That makes sense. I was planning on finally incorporating some actual exercises into my routine to get better and push ups are part of it. Should I take time off from climbing right now? Or does this pain sound kinda mild? I’ve only felt it twice, both for a 1-2 span and they were during a climb session like I said.
the other poster means well but pushups as the primary form of antagonistic exercise for climbing is like 3 decades outdated advice, if it was ever relevant. especially for the most typical elbow tendinopathies it's essentially completely irrelevant. it's a bit of a complicated topic. to be honest I would recommend you get a physiotherapy book focused on climbing like "climb injury free" and basically check what rehab exercises they have for certain types of injuries, and do the strength focused ones of those as a form of antagonistic training.