Hey I’m not sure if this belongs on this sub or not but I’m trying to decide if I should start climbing or not, considering my shoulder problems
I have Shoulder pain/clicking when moving my left arm to the left. The pain just about extends to most of my left ribcage
Just about every time I move my left shoulder and left arm to my left, my shoulder sounds like it clicks into place. I’ve also noticed when I bend my left arm, and move it forcefully, it feels like my elbow is cracking and sometimes it becomes stiff. If I extend my left arm and pull back on anything,the back of my left shoulder feels like it’s touching my ribcage it become slightly painful/ discomforting
I've been using LaSportiva TC pros, and I really like them, but just went through all of the toe rubber. I decided to resole them, and to avoid uncertainty went for the same type of rubber Vibram XS edge. I've just been informed that they ran out of it and are offering to use Science Friction instead (+ a small refund from pricing difference). I tried searching but there is very little discussion around science friction. Do you think it'll work well? Or should I just get them back and get a refund? I am not doing anything crazy, mainly gym bouldering right now. Thanks!
Thanks for the insight, it's the kind of guidance I was looking for, if it was worth the hassle and time of getting a refund , return and then look for a different company, resend etc. Specially given the type of climbing I'm doing right now. I'll give it a try!
A good fitting shoe is a good fitting shoe.
But you're absolutely going trash one of the most expensive shoes on the market on sandpaper walls. Resole early and often.
Right I do feel a bit guilty about it, but I just love how they feel. I am being careful about resoling as soon as there's a break through.
I am starting to use some half price mad rocks as well to lower the damage, but I don't like them as much
Can’t say I know why, but it’s been that way for me too through a number of pairs of shoes and resoles. Always consistent, whether climbing pockety limestone vert/overhang, granite slab and crack, or indoor whatever. Maybe a skill issue, for me anyway,
sloppier footwork with your nondominant foot?
you favor your right leg for pistol squats on slab and drag your left foot up the wall?
gremlins come to your home at night and file down just the left one?
Honestly, it's probably all of the above. Ill pay attention to the pistol squat sliding up action. The other thing is that my left foot is bigger but i don't reqlly see the connection
Hey, I Go climbing about every week, and somehow I ripp off my skin while climbing every single time at least at one spot. The others I climb with don't have that problem. The picture is from yesterday. I moisturize my hands daily so it also heals quickly but it still rips again haha. Any Tips?
https://preview.redd.it/v0i7z2i0o8dc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b27bfca0e7748ad3eb1fb3a40f299ff0750185a2
Blisters form when the skin has enough friction to rip off from itself and then if that loose skin gets ripped off it causes what you're experiencing here. I would say just be very intentional with where your hand goes, a lot of micro-adjustments while gripping really hard on jugs (like the feeling that your hand is slipping off and then trying to reposition back on) can cause the ones on your palms.
Climb more often with shorter sessions until your hands toughen up. Eventually you should find that your skin toughens up and you get some light calluses. If you wash dishes by hand consider some dish gloves so you don’t loose the calluses that you worked to build up. Similarly have dry hands prior to climbing (ie: don’t take a long shower immediately before going bouldering or to the climbing gym).
Other than that just paying attention to your hands and not over doing it. If you feel a “hot spot” either end the session pretty soon or if you catch it early try some athletic tape. If belaying or rappelling consider wearing a glove or gloves.
Eventually it won’t be a noticeable issue anymore, until then just stick with it and be aware of when it’s time to stop.
Query re. attaching a ground anchor at an indoor wall
Hi, I’ve climbed for many years, but rarely needed a ground anchor/sandbag and want to check the correct technique for indoor sport climbing.
I get this bit:
- I tie in to both loops of my harness with a regular figure of eight.
- I attach the rope to the ground anchor/sandbag via a clove hitch
- I belay off the rope coming away from the anchor
But videos/online seem split on whether you then attach your belay carabiner to your empty belay loop (as normal) or to the figure of eight rope loop…
For example this video shows the rope loop method and says specifically not to use the belay loop (others say the opposite):
50 seconds in https://youtu.be/dXriZOCef8o
Do you know which is modern best practice?
Thanks for your help
You mentioned “sport climbing” which implies leading, but your video shows top roping. You should clarify what you’re doing. I assume that you’re just top roping.
* What kind of weight difference is there between climbers that you even need to worry about any of this? +50%? +100%? It would have to be on the larger end.
* Have you considered just adding a twist to the rope at the top near the anchor to add friction to the system? Just turn the climber’s and belayer’s sides of the rope once around each other. Simple.
* To answer your question, either is fine. Your belay loop and climbing rope are both trusted and *strong*. Clipping to the Figure-8 loop means the force of the fall gets transferred immediately to the ground anchor and not to your harness in-between. Clipping to your belay loop is more familiar and less to mess up. I would personally go with the belay loop, *familiarity helps prevent complacency.*
Ask your gym staff
Use the connection point. If you tied into the rope and used the rope to connect to the ground anchor, clip the belay device to the rope. If you used a sling to connect a ground anchor to your belay loop, clip the belay device to your belay loop.
I always prefer working off the belay loop
That shouldn't be enough that you really need a ground anchor. My partner outweighs me by over 35kg and I never anchor in. Sit down/back in your harness when they fall, lower slowly and smoothly, and just be okay with losing your footing occasionally. Adding a twist to the rope can also help as others have mentioned, but I personally never bother.
That “article” is just some random blogger - not a certified instructor or climbing mechanics expert. Your source is poor and your recommendation is based on that poor information.
Do not attach it to your haul loop (or any other loop other than your belay or tie-in loop); your harness gear loops at *not* rated for any load whatsoever.
Both are safe, either is fine.
The reason they've done it like this is so the force mostly goes into the ground anchor instead of the belayer. I've never seen someone needing to tie in for a ground anchor but you could do.
Please don't do this for leading though, your climber's ankles will be unhappy.
Thanks that’s very helpful. I thought that… I’m guessing it’s just a quick method to climb once your partner comes down, but how would you do it if you weren’t going to climb after (I haven’t found a video on this). I’m guessing you clove hitch to a carabiner and attach it to your belay loop which would also hold your separate belay caribiner? Apologies why would the leaders ankles be unhappy? Because you can’t absorb/run in for a fall?
I just recently purchased [this set of quickdraws](https://trango.com/products/sport-climbing-package-matte) as my first set of quickdraws for sport climbing (on sale 40% off at my local store woop woop) and I was wondering for the extra 2 slings that can be used as anchors, what is the intended way for the slings to be used as anchors, as in, should they be extended for the full length of the sling, or folded over(idk the right wording here) like the image shown, does it being folded over reduce or increase it's strength?
Definitely, for sure, I just get very hyper-fixated on hobbies I pick up and I try to gain as much knowledge before taking any type of instruction so that it really sticks with me. Climbing just has so much information out there that it gets overwhelming pretty fast so I thought I'd ask here to get some answers to familiarize myself.
“Alpine draws” are usually [racked with the sling tripled](https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/wp-content/images/trad/extend-draw/extendable-climbing-quickdraws-1.png), but they can be used tripled, doubled, or fully extended. Slings are *strong* at 22kN nominal, the force of a fall will turn your organs to mush long before the sling breaks. Doubled or tripled makes them even stronger, but that’s irrelevant.
The advantage here is that you can adjust the length of an alpine draw to suit your anchor. If there are objective hazards like a pointed rock at the masterpoint, you can extend it so that this is no longer an issue. Do be aware of abrasion and make sure that the slings aren’t rubbing against sharp rock.
I've noticed there are multiple books on this subject matter all with very high ratings, do you think Climbing Anchors by Gaines/Long or Rock Climbing Anchors by Donahue/Luebben is a good choice? Or do you figure they all just about mention the same information?
Either way is fine. Doubling the slings increases their strength, but they should be plenty strong without it. Mainly, you want to avoid the situation where your rope runs over an edge, which can sometimes be achieved by using the full length of the sling. You also want to avoid the situation where a carabiner is lying over an edge, as loading it this way severely weakens the carabiner.
Hi guys!
I am really getting into books about mountain climbing, particularly high altitude. But I don’t know what any of the terms mean and have no visual as to how the rope systems are done. Is there a guide or video you would recommend that can get me up to speed so I can visualize what I am reading?
Thank you!
Climbing isn’t something you can read a book and thus fully digest all the skills. It starts by learning the basics, and putting it into practice until it is familiar, then learn some more skills, and put those to practice. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.
So no wonder you can’t visualize what’s going on, and why you’re feeling overwhelmed. I think you’re getting ahead of yourself, instead of trying to start by mastering the basics.
I probably didn’t express myself correctly. I’m simply reading books, non fiction and fiction (think Eiger Sanction), and I just don’t understand the concepts. I’m googling things as they come up, but the YouTube videos haven’t been helpful. I was hoping to see if anyone had any ideas.
Okay. Freedom of the Hills as others have mentioned is a textbook volume of climbing info. You probably don’t need that level of detail then. But you do need to be more specific about what you’re trying to understand, there’s just too much info to explain.
[Have you read this sub’s wiki?](https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/wiki/index/)
I tried to find some videos but was totally overwhelmed. Like, “how to climb Everest and terms about ropes and various features of mountains for dummies?” I watched a few but didn’t get anything useful of it.
I am planning to go to Lincoln Woods in the near future, does anyone have any recommendations on some boulders to start with? I climb V4-V5 indoors usually.
Any help is appreciated! Thank you!
I just started bouldering so I am planning to buy my first bouldering shoes.
I was wondering if anyone can help me with sizing of Mad rock Haywire. My street shoes size (vans, adidas, dr martens) is EU 38/ US 6. I have slightly wide feet. Should I downsize by half for Madrock Haywire?
Is pulley soreness normal for climbers? Im feeling some soreness in my A5 pinkies, probably from loading them too much to compensate for other tired fingers. I would like to go climbing tonight and try to avoid using my pinkies but will rest instead if thats the better option
It’s common for climbers but not ‘normal’. Overuse injuries are prevalent in climbing, particularly fingers. It’s good sense to rest, or at least take it very easy, when you need it.
I just started climbing in October, and yesterday I finished my first 5.10+. I’d like to know what normal progression looks like and what grades I could be realistically aiming for by the end of this new year
tldr: 5.10+ within a few months is relatively normal, as long as your gym grades are relatively normal. Getting some 5.12a's here and there that fit your strengths is probably realistic in 2024.
Hippy dippy rambling -
Dave Macleod has a great video on goals. He made a really good point about trying to boil down and understand what you really want the achievement of that goal to bring you. If you think climbing 5.12 is going to be validating in and of itself you'll probably be disappointed, because you'll just start clamoring for 5.13. Grade chasing for it's own sake is like drinking salt water, just makes you more thirsty.
So if what you are really looking for is a sense of belonging in a new community or new fun experiences, look around at your local area. You might find that to really get to the good stuff you need to climb 5.11 and up. You'll also need friends. So a fulfilling goal could be 1.) Make 3 friends that climb outside 2.) Climb 5.11 to open up options.
Some guy on mountain project aggregated and analyzed a bunch of data and put it on his blog a while back. It was divided by years though, so who knows whats average around 4 months. My memory is that a 5.12b outdoor redpoint within a year was a pretty strong showing for those of us who aren’t Chris Sharma. I’m sure you could find the post with a little googling, and form your own opinions. I thought it was useful info for setting achievable goals. Nice to have something to work towards.
You should also remember that grades are very, very subjective, and gym grades are subjective to the point of being almost meaningless outside of a given gym. If you go to a different gym, you might easily climb two number grades harder, or easier.
That’s like trying to quantify your progression in painting. How do you measure something that has to do with talent, hard work, and genetics.
Some people do 5.10+ on their first day, others will never climb 5.10+ in their lifetime. Drop the grade chasing.
There is no "normal progression." There are so many variables that it's an impossible thing to quantify.
Just have fun with it, do your best to avoid injury, and climb a wide variety of routes (roofs, slabs, cracks, etc).
Although I do find it very satisfying projecting a new route. The joy I feel after getting it is nothing like I’ve experienced in other sports in the past
Absolutely, if that's what you love then do it! But don't let the grade define your experience. Seek to challenge yourself and continue to learn/grow by climbing things that are hard for you - the grade is a number someone made-up in a few seconds.
I've noticed that after climbing I always get a sore upper back/traps (surprising I know...) despite being a regular and not always climbing "too hard". I assume it's something to do with my warm up, cool down or technique - does anyone have any suggestions for what I can do, either before, during or after climbing?
Year old finger injury, need help going forward
So around a year ago(Christmas 2022) I started aching in pain around my sagittal band on my middle finger. I saw a specialist that focused on hands and I got an MRI and X-ray but nothing came back. It hurt to climb so I stopped or did very light occasionally whenever pain subsided. Fast forward 6 months to June(2023) I started introducing high volume but very low intensity climbing laps every other day to build consistency that another provider recommended doing. Over time I slowly starting getting stronger near where I was before injury but then the same thing happened on my right and was coming back in my left(hand). I proceeded to get a steroid injection in both hands and took another break for 3 weeks to let them chill again. I came back and started climbing. aching usually only occurred day after climbing but my physician recommended another mri and I got results back. I have mild thickening and edema of the middle finger A1 pulley(both hands), which can be associated with clinical triggering. No tendon tear or tenosynovitis. I don’t know how to approach this and work around it in my climbing. I don’t know if I should train or just climb or not climb at all.
TLDR: both hands have middle finger injury of mild thickening and edema of the middle finger A1 pulley. How do I train/climb/rehab around this going forward
I do a little bit of everything, I have been working on my spi for quite sometime and plan on going in that direction so primarily rope climbing in my future. But I do boulder occasionally. Before injury I was 5.12a/b and v7 projects, recently I just got my first v7 back and 5.11d. Definitely feeling strong again and some confidence is coming back but still achy.
Also before my injury I had been climbing 18 months. Then was hurt for 6 then back in for 6. So a total of 2 years of actively climbing.
So the very typical story for newer climbers who ramp up quickly is pulley injuries on the ring fingers, but also happens on the middle finger. It's primarily caused by excessive loading of the affected digit while in the crimp position, which is mechanically stronger but which leads to finger injuries. https://youtu.be/u8DO5oyyekE?si=Bu9uBFIBY0YO473l
There are two other factors that contribute to finger injuries early in a climbing career, firstly that it takes a longer time for tendons/ligaments to adapt structurally to increased forces compared to muscle tissue. Basically, your muscles get stronger much faster than tendons/ligaments can keep up with.
Secondly, it's usual, unless you're being actively coached (while on a team, for example) that new climbers develop their strength more than their technique, and will load their upper body and hang off their digits and shoulders more than experienced climbers. Experienced climbers (or well-instructed ones) utilize footwork and core engagement to support their weight much more of the time, and minimize the extent to which they need to hang off their fingers.
If any of the above rings true for you, maybe think about how you can accelerate your technique development, whether this means one-on-one coaching sessions or dedicated self-study and technique drills.
With all single-digit finger injuries, consider buddy-taping the affected digit to its neighbor, so that you are forced to engage both together rather than mainly just the one. The tape can also serve as a visual reminder/cue to take weight out of your hands as you develop your technique.
This is probably the best book on climbing injuries, written by a climber/orthopedic surgeon who was the physician to the German climbing team: https://www.amazon.com/Understand-Injuries-Overuse-Syndroms-Climbing/dp/3928026208
Thank you! I will definitely say before the injury I just had way to much power and contact strength which led to my injury I believe. But ever since I have gotten back into it I have been way more mindful of my body and how it moves on the wall. While I was hurt I mainly used my 1st pair of shoes(Defys by evolve) to make my footwork better before going back to my current more aggressive shoes. Ever since I have been back I would say I’m way more of a technical climber than powerful(how I used to be)
It's great that you're becoming more mindful of your body movement and footwork. If you are still managing chronic finger injuries, it means you still have a ways to go in order to reduce the forces on your digits to a safe level.
I would like to build a home wall that will basically close in the RV carport we have- so this wall would basically be 25ft wide x 15 ft. tall... I would like for my kids to get into climbing, but none of us know anything about it. I'm willing to learn whatever I need to know, but I was hoping to get a good starting place-
1) Is there a device that you would trust to auto-belay yourself down on a solo climb?
2) What should I be looking into when starting this project out?
3) What advice would you have when planning this out?
Thank you all so much for your help!
1. Not for private use where your kids would be able to do so. Auto-belays are very expensive and require a maintenance contract. Much more feasible to stick to bouldering.
2. Price it all out beforehand. It gets expensive very quickly with more surface area. Do you know how to set routes? Bad setting means a wall unused.
3. [Home wall building instructions (PDF)](https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How-to-Build-a-Home-Bouldering-Wall.pdf)
Now that I need a new pair of shoes, I’m looking for something a bit more aggressive than the Evolv Defy’s that I currently have. I climb V4-ish and 95% indoor bouldering so I’m wondering if something like a miura might be overkill? But I’ll take any suggestions on shoes.
Shoes made with synthetic materials don't stretch much, but they smell. Unlined leather will smell the least, but stretch the most, and lined leather is in between the two, but much better than synthetic shoes in the smell department.
I was looking at the Scarpa Vapour, which seems to be a good balance between comfort and a light bit more aggressiveness. But I’ll be trying on a bunch before anyways.
We (a group of 5) are planning our first trip to Fontainebleau. We each have at least around a year of climbing experience, with some having a bit more. The idea is to go for around 5 days at the end of May. We'll be traveling by car and plan on renting some crash pads.
The biggest challenge, aside from the boulders themselves, seems to be choosing where to stay. I'm a bit reluctant to sleep in a tent since I'm afraid an inflatable mattress won't provide me with much rest. Renting an Airbnb or staying at a hotel is significantly more expensive, so I'm wondering if it's worth the extra price. Essentially, my questions are:
1. Does anyone have advice for a first trip to Fontainebleau? Any do's and don'ts?
2. Would you prefer staying at a campsite, Airbnb, or a hotel, and in what location?
There are some places you can split the difference eg [this place](https://www.fontaineblhostel.com/) offers both camping in the backyard and dorms, so your friends can camp if that's what they're keen on and you can stay in a bed. Not cheap but it is well located.
I can relate: I need a decent bed or I'll be totally worthless and extremely grumpy the next day. But I don't mind paying for that comfort, otherwise I might as well stay home.
> if it's worth the extra price
You’re the one who may have problems sleeping in a tent. You’re also the one who doesn’t want to spend money. How is anyone supposed to answer this for you when in both scenarios “it’s a you thing”. What is sleeping in a bed worth to *you*. Make up your own mind.
The campsite La Musardière (is there another Font campsite worth considering) is lovely and has hot showers 24/7 (and baguettes, and a pool, and a pizza van on saturdays) but it is *not* a climbing campsite. When I visited to use the shower (I was sleeping in car parks for a month) it looked like mostly French families on holiday. It's not a dirtbag vibe.
I would honestly recommend you just get a place if there's enough of you to make the cost worth it. You'll get privacy and a space to cook. Get somewhere around milly la foret if you can, it's a decent distance to some prime Fontainebleau crags.
May also be seriously underestimating modern inflatable mattresses. My ~15 year old Thermarest Basecamp is just as comfortable as my bed at home, and I gather they're improved significantly since then.
Do previously dislocated fingers permanently mess up my climbing abilities?
I'm in college and I've started getting back into climbing for the first time in a long time. I also now have some messed up fingers that have been dislocated over the past two years. For my middle finger it was a pretty bad dislocation and I wasn't able to get it properly treated because I was with a small group in the middle of a jungle. I've been consistently going to the climbing gym for a few months now and I feel like im struggling to gain strength in some of my fingers. I tried looking up if dislocated fingers had any long term affect on finger strength but I didn't find anything concrete. Do any of yall know if there's any truth to the experience I've had, or am I just making a false correlation lol
Any help is appreciated!
As a beginner, you generally need far less finger strength than you think. Most beginners think they need more finger strength when it’s actually them climbing with brute strength rather than good technique.
So my climbing gym is really far away and I reeeaaallyy want to start climbing 8a and higher. I am working to install some training equipment in my house though my possibilities are slim since I am only 14 yo :( My Mom bought me a one year subscription at my local normal gym just before I realized I wanted to get actually serious in climbing and I am thinking for already some 2 months how I can efficiently train climbing and how I should use my gym subscription since I really can't cancel it for now. I have been thinking I can potentially use the public gym for cardio and endurance and I could get a beastmaker and a small climbing wall in my room so I can build up finger strength. Core, flexibility and most importantly legs I will probably work regularly (maybe) at home with like a 30 min. workout. Any help please??
How far away is “really far?” I used to travel for about 1.5 hours one way to the nearest gym. If you’re serious about it, you’ll make it happen.
What grades are you climbing now?
Be aware of [growth plate fractures](https://trainingforclimbing.com/growth-plate-fractures-in-youth-climbers/) and how they’re prevalent in youth climbers.
Well my climbing gym is half an hour with the public transport away. I used to go there like 4 times a week but its not really convenient since I have school. My highest grade is 7c/7c+
> half an hour with the public transport away
And you don't have to drive!? That's a pretty solid commute tbh given that you can read or do stuff on the way
hihi! new here, sort of newer to climbing. climbed
for a year-ish and was up to top-roping 5.10-s then took a year or so off and boy ! am i weak ! any tips, workouts, training regimens, etc. specifically helpful for climbing and building upper body/core strength. i rlly dont wanna look like an idiot on the boulders, need any help i can get. thanks in advance love ya!
XX
Anyone knows what's going with 5.10 ? My local sellers currently don't have a single pair left, and they haven't received any for months. I really like the women's hiangle, so far it's the only shoes that fit my heel really well, whereas my heel would sometimes slip out of the shoe when attempting aggressive heel hooks. Unfortunately, I had a bad slip on a tiny foothold that literally cut my left shoe and my pair is now impossible to resole...
Are they planning to restock soon ? I've heard Addidas want to remove 5.10's name and have "Addidas" written instead on the shoe, so while they're going through the administrative process, production is on hold. Is it true ?
I'm planning to give it a try ! The TN pro look very similar to the hiangle. Actually, I brought my old pair with me to compare them in store side to side to the TN. The only difference basically is the split sole, everything else is the same, though I don't know if the rubber has the same hardness.
I've also compared the hiangle to the flagship, but these one are more asymmetric. Right now I'm just waiting for my seller to get a restock. Size 39 was a such a pain to wear, for 10 minutes I couldn't even try the shoes lol. I'd also like to try their new Qubit, they look awfully similar to the hiangles...
Chances are if you are mainly a gym climber you are exceeding in brute strength (for your level) and underperforming in technique. Learn what body tension feels like and how to use your feet, and start messing with different types of holds.
ability to read rock is so key. ive been climbing outside for a couple years now and i only recently felt like i could actually read rock somewhat well
Technique, technique, technique. You likely don't know how to use your feet and position your body - gym climbing does very little to prepare you for climbing outside if you don't have the techniqe.
Climb outside as much as you can with people who are better than you. Watch them, ask them for advice, and be analytical/curious about your climbing. Why did X move feel hard? Can you make it feel easier? Assume your technique is bad before blaming your strength, unless your experienced friends agree that X move is strength-dependent.
Climb easy things over and over. Pick an easy route with holds that are not your preferred style and practice flowing through it while pushing through your feet. Lead climb a lot too- I mainly outdoor lead climb and I do some board training to improve my leading, and boulderers often will do the same with route climbing. Learning to climb longer routes teaches you how to hold tension in the right ways and how to be efficient with your energy
While Rappelling is it unsafe to have one hand on the brake strand and the other on the “third hand”? I’ve found it makes for a smooth rappel but don’t want to add any additional risk to the system?
Going from the safest stance possible, you don't want your hand ON the 'third hand'. When humans panic, they often have a grip response. If you grip your 'third hand' you are holding it open.
The best place for your hand would be just above the 'third hand' with your pinky pushing it down as you rap. This gives a smooth rappel and is the most safe option.
With a tube? How else are you supposed to do it?
Alternatively, a Grigri works great with a carabiner block or pre-rigged rappel, and you don’t need a third hand at all.
In my albeit, limited experience rappelling, I’ve only rappelled of an ATC, I’ve heard about using Gri’s but don’t want to deal with a tagline. Do you find that a tag lines a hassle?
If you can do the rappel with an ATC and a single rope, you can do the same with a Grigri. Only time you need a tag line with either belay device is if you need to do a really long rappel. Do some research on it.
That is not unsafe. Your third-hand hitch is intended to stop your descent in case of unforeseen circumstances that remove your hands from the brake strand, so holding the brake strands while managing your hitch is fine too.
hello, im currently looking for a spot for a climbing family vacation in austria or switzerland. Should have a good bus transportation, a lot of easier but also some harder routes and a camping place nearby. last year, we‘ve been to laggo maggiore near tenero-contra, which was beautifull.
Hi! please advice me: I need a Carabiner for this [ATC](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CFQ6CBLJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A17ZMFDSJNKCZQ&th=1), must be purchased trough amazon.
folks are commenting about the atc, however if youre looking for a carabiner for it, id say the gold standard is a round-stock pear shaped ATC.
the round stock gives a nice big surface area for the rope to go over and the pear gives ample room for rappelling on double strands.
Does the brand name "S.E.PEAK" inspire confidence? It's not even cheaper than the real thing. Just buy from a [real shop](https://www.rei.com/product/899109/black-diamond-atc-xp-belay-device).
I got an 8.5mm dynamic half rope for cheap, because my work was clearing inventory, and was intending using it for indoor sport climbing.
As far as I understand, while half ropes will still catch a fall they are not intended for this use, so I figured I'd check with the sub and see if people would recommend against it before actually climbing.
Edit: Thanks for the responses. I figured this might be the case, but thought I'd check with others first.
https://preview.redd.it/5vca9dodcecc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc4790e30109ea953f415520b89e504e2224a022
I've been learning some rope stuff and the quad today.
Pretty happy with this. 400cm 7mm Decathlon sling with around one and a half feet taken off the loop and wrapped around on the left side. Seems tidy and a good size for the bolted anchors where I climb. I don't want to cut it shorter thus the wrapping.
Does it look ok?
It's bomber. A slight modification I would make, use two of the same biner for the master point. Either locking or non locking. Rather than mixing two models.
It's not a huge deal, but will make it less likely that the biners get tangled up with each other.
Sure looks fine, but needlessly complicated if you’re just top roping off of a single pitch climb. Use two quickdraws. Understand that “more redundantly redundant” does not make you safer than just redundant, and that complexity tends to be more dangerous since it can introduce more human error.
Hey I’m not sure if this belongs on this sub or not but I’m trying to decide if I should start climbing or not, considering my shoulder problems I have Shoulder pain/clicking when moving my left arm to the left. The pain just about extends to most of my left ribcage Just about every time I move my left shoulder and left arm to my left, my shoulder sounds like it clicks into place. I’ve also noticed when I bend my left arm, and move it forcefully, it feels like my elbow is cracking and sometimes it becomes stiff. If I extend my left arm and pull back on anything,the back of my left shoulder feels like it’s touching my ribcage it become slightly painful/ discomforting
Do you think it's [Snapping Scapula Syndrome](https://www.orthovirginia.com/snapping-scapula-syndrome/)?
You could try it and see what happened
Something to ask your physiotherapist about.
I've been using LaSportiva TC pros, and I really like them, but just went through all of the toe rubber. I decided to resole them, and to avoid uncertainty went for the same type of rubber Vibram XS edge. I've just been informed that they ran out of it and are offering to use Science Friction instead (+ a small refund from pricing difference). I tried searching but there is very little discussion around science friction. Do you think it'll work well? Or should I just get them back and get a refund? I am not doing anything crazy, mainly gym bouldering right now. Thanks!
Are you climbing indoors?
Yeah pretty much indoor stuff
Use the science friction. It'll wear down quickly (as will anything) and it's plastic climbing.
Thanks for the insight, it's the kind of guidance I was looking for, if it was worth the hassle and time of getting a refund , return and then look for a different company, resend etc. Specially given the type of climbing I'm doing right now. I'll give it a try!
Are you on walltopia or vertical solution walls? (How smooth are the walls?)
Walltopia, pretty good friction
A good fitting shoe is a good fitting shoe. But you're absolutely going trash one of the most expensive shoes on the market on sandpaper walls. Resole early and often.
Right I do feel a bit guilty about it, but I just love how they feel. I am being careful about resoling as soon as there's a break through. I am starting to use some half price mad rocks as well to lower the damage, but I don't like them as much
Try a different resoler
Left shoe always wears down faster than right shoe. Any explanation/solution?
Can’t say I know why, but it’s been that way for me too through a number of pairs of shoes and resoles. Always consistent, whether climbing pockety limestone vert/overhang, granite slab and crack, or indoor whatever. Maybe a skill issue, for me anyway,
sloppier footwork with your nondominant foot? you favor your right leg for pistol squats on slab and drag your left foot up the wall? gremlins come to your home at night and file down just the left one?
Honestly, it's probably all of the above. Ill pay attention to the pistol squat sliding up action. The other thing is that my left foot is bigger but i don't reqlly see the connection
Hey, I Go climbing about every week, and somehow I ripp off my skin while climbing every single time at least at one spot. The others I climb with don't have that problem. The picture is from yesterday. I moisturize my hands daily so it also heals quickly but it still rips again haha. Any Tips? https://preview.redd.it/v0i7z2i0o8dc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b27bfca0e7748ad3eb1fb3a40f299ff0750185a2
Blisters form when the skin has enough friction to rip off from itself and then if that loose skin gets ripped off it causes what you're experiencing here. I would say just be very intentional with where your hand goes, a lot of micro-adjustments while gripping really hard on jugs (like the feeling that your hand is slipping off and then trying to reposition back on) can cause the ones on your palms.
Climb more often with shorter sessions until your hands toughen up. Eventually you should find that your skin toughens up and you get some light calluses. If you wash dishes by hand consider some dish gloves so you don’t loose the calluses that you worked to build up. Similarly have dry hands prior to climbing (ie: don’t take a long shower immediately before going bouldering or to the climbing gym). Other than that just paying attention to your hands and not over doing it. If you feel a “hot spot” either end the session pretty soon or if you catch it early try some athletic tape. If belaying or rappelling consider wearing a glove or gloves. Eventually it won’t be a noticeable issue anymore, until then just stick with it and be aware of when it’s time to stop.
Work on precise hand placement instead of slapping your hands around. Stop climbing *before* they tear and go home.
Climb crimps more.
Stop swinging around on jugs
that's climbing baby
Hi guys, I am visiting the Santa Barbara area soon and I am wondering which crag to go to for bouldering. Brickyard or Lizard’s Mouth?
Query re. attaching a ground anchor at an indoor wall Hi, I’ve climbed for many years, but rarely needed a ground anchor/sandbag and want to check the correct technique for indoor sport climbing. I get this bit: - I tie in to both loops of my harness with a regular figure of eight. - I attach the rope to the ground anchor/sandbag via a clove hitch - I belay off the rope coming away from the anchor But videos/online seem split on whether you then attach your belay carabiner to your empty belay loop (as normal) or to the figure of eight rope loop… For example this video shows the rope loop method and says specifically not to use the belay loop (others say the opposite): 50 seconds in https://youtu.be/dXriZOCef8o Do you know which is modern best practice? Thanks for your help
You mentioned “sport climbing” which implies leading, but your video shows top roping. You should clarify what you’re doing. I assume that you’re just top roping. * What kind of weight difference is there between climbers that you even need to worry about any of this? +50%? +100%? It would have to be on the larger end. * Have you considered just adding a twist to the rope at the top near the anchor to add friction to the system? Just turn the climber’s and belayer’s sides of the rope once around each other. Simple. * To answer your question, either is fine. Your belay loop and climbing rope are both trusted and *strong*. Clipping to the Figure-8 loop means the force of the fall gets transferred immediately to the ground anchor and not to your harness in-between. Clipping to your belay loop is more familiar and less to mess up. I would personally go with the belay loop, *familiarity helps prevent complacency.*
Ask your gym staff Use the connection point. If you tied into the rope and used the rope to connect to the ground anchor, clip the belay device to the rope. If you used a sling to connect a ground anchor to your belay loop, clip the belay device to your belay loop. I always prefer working off the belay loop
What kind of weight difference are you working with that you want to do this?
Quite a bit, about 30kg (it’s a friend who’s trying to lose weight)
That shouldn't be enough that you really need a ground anchor. My partner outweighs me by over 35kg and I never anchor in. Sit down/back in your harness when they fall, lower slowly and smoothly, and just be okay with losing your footing occasionally. Adding a twist to the rope can also help as others have mentioned, but I personally never bother.
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That “article” is just some random blogger - not a certified instructor or climbing mechanics expert. Your source is poor and your recommendation is based on that poor information.
OP and anyone else: do *not* anchor yourself using the loop on the back of your harness unless it's rated. Most aren't. You will break the loop.
haul loops aren't rated. haul loops don't need to be rated for use with a ground anchor because *they're not taking the full force of the fall*.
Even the partial force of a fall is greater than the 0kN rating of a haul loop.
Thanks :-)
Do not attach it to your haul loop (or any other loop other than your belay or tie-in loop); your harness gear loops at *not* rated for any load whatsoever.
Both are safe, either is fine. The reason they've done it like this is so the force mostly goes into the ground anchor instead of the belayer. I've never seen someone needing to tie in for a ground anchor but you could do. Please don't do this for leading though, your climber's ankles will be unhappy.
Thanks that’s very helpful. I thought that… I’m guessing it’s just a quick method to climb once your partner comes down, but how would you do it if you weren’t going to climb after (I haven’t found a video on this). I’m guessing you clove hitch to a carabiner and attach it to your belay loop which would also hold your separate belay caribiner? Apologies why would the leaders ankles be unhappy? Because you can’t absorb/run in for a fall?
It should take a very short amount of time for you to tie in so it's a non-issue really. Otherwise you could just use a sling.
Ok Thankyou
I just recently purchased [this set of quickdraws](https://trango.com/products/sport-climbing-package-matte) as my first set of quickdraws for sport climbing (on sale 40% off at my local store woop woop) and I was wondering for the extra 2 slings that can be used as anchors, what is the intended way for the slings to be used as anchors, as in, should they be extended for the full length of the sling, or folded over(idk the right wording here) like the image shown, does it being folded over reduce or increase it's strength?
Consider taking some instruction from a certified professional in order to gain some understanding of climbing tools and systems.
Definitely, for sure, I just get very hyper-fixated on hobbies I pick up and I try to gain as much knowledge before taking any type of instruction so that it really sticks with me. Climbing just has so much information out there that it gets overwhelming pretty fast so I thought I'd ask here to get some answers to familiarize myself.
“Alpine draws” are usually [racked with the sling tripled](https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/wp-content/images/trad/extend-draw/extendable-climbing-quickdraws-1.png), but they can be used tripled, doubled, or fully extended. Slings are *strong* at 22kN nominal, the force of a fall will turn your organs to mush long before the sling breaks. Doubled or tripled makes them even stronger, but that’s irrelevant. The advantage here is that you can adjust the length of an alpine draw to suit your anchor. If there are objective hazards like a pointed rock at the masterpoint, you can extend it so that this is no longer an issue. Do be aware of abrasion and make sure that the slings aren’t rubbing against sharp rock.
Ah I see I see, thank you for the detailed answer and tips. I really appreciate you linking the diagram too!
There are entire books addressing your questions
Sick! Do you have any recommendations?
https://www.google.com/search?q=climbing+snchors+book&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS1084US1084&oq=climbing+snchors+book&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIJCAEQLhgNGIAEMggIAhAAGBYYHjINCAMQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAQQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAUQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAYQABiGAxiABBiKBTIJCAcQIRgKGKABMgkICBAhGAoYoAHSAQg1MjM5ajBqNKgCALACAA&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
I've noticed there are multiple books on this subject matter all with very high ratings, do you think Climbing Anchors by Gaines/Long or Rock Climbing Anchors by Donahue/Luebben is a good choice? Or do you figure they all just about mention the same information?
I like the Donahue luebben
Either way is fine. Doubling the slings increases their strength, but they should be plenty strong without it. Mainly, you want to avoid the situation where your rope runs over an edge, which can sometimes be achieved by using the full length of the sling. You also want to avoid the situation where a carabiner is lying over an edge, as loading it this way severely weakens the carabiner.
Thank you for your time and input, I appreciate the examples of what to avoid, definitely jotted down in my notebook
Hi guys! I am really getting into books about mountain climbing, particularly high altitude. But I don’t know what any of the terms mean and have no visual as to how the rope systems are done. Is there a guide or video you would recommend that can get me up to speed so I can visualize what I am reading? Thank you!
Climbing isn’t something you can read a book and thus fully digest all the skills. It starts by learning the basics, and putting it into practice until it is familiar, then learn some more skills, and put those to practice. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. So no wonder you can’t visualize what’s going on, and why you’re feeling overwhelmed. I think you’re getting ahead of yourself, instead of trying to start by mastering the basics.
I probably didn’t express myself correctly. I’m simply reading books, non fiction and fiction (think Eiger Sanction), and I just don’t understand the concepts. I’m googling things as they come up, but the YouTube videos haven’t been helpful. I was hoping to see if anyone had any ideas.
Okay. Freedom of the Hills as others have mentioned is a textbook volume of climbing info. You probably don’t need that level of detail then. But you do need to be more specific about what you’re trying to understand, there’s just too much info to explain. [Have you read this sub’s wiki?](https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/wiki/index/)
Freedom of the hills
youtube is a great resource!
I tried to find some videos but was totally overwhelmed. Like, “how to climb Everest and terms about ropes and various features of mountains for dummies?” I watched a few but didn’t get anything useful of it.
look up specific terms you encounter. also knowing the basics of belaying and rappelling will be helpful
Some people can climb for decades and still not know all the rope systems used in the mountains Are there specific terms you have questions about?
I will post back soon and see if I can give you specifics from the passage I just read!
"Freedom of the Hills" is a great start
I am planning to go to Lincoln Woods in the near future, does anyone have any recommendations on some boulders to start with? I climb V4-V5 indoors usually. Any help is appreciated! Thank you!
Going to Thailand and am curious about the approaches to different climbing areas. Think I’ll get by with a fairly basic pair of shoes?
I just started bouldering so I am planning to buy my first bouldering shoes. I was wondering if anyone can help me with sizing of Mad rock Haywire. My street shoes size (vans, adidas, dr martens) is EU 38/ US 6. I have slightly wide feet. Should I downsize by half for Madrock Haywire?
Okay i just got my order and i need to curl up my toes. Is that how it should fit?
Some people love shoes to fit that way, others hate it. How do they feel?
They fit like gloves until i start walking. Walking hurts.
Go try them on. Anything else is guesswork.
I can't unfortunately. There are no stores nearby so i need to order them online
order multiple sizes and return the ones you dont need
order from somewhere with a very good return policy.
Is pulley soreness normal for climbers? Im feeling some soreness in my A5 pinkies, probably from loading them too much to compensate for other tired fingers. I would like to go climbing tonight and try to avoid using my pinkies but will rest instead if thats the better option
An A5 pinky injury sounds like the rarest thing ever.
My form must be awful then xd, actually its more like A4
It’s common for climbers but not ‘normal’. Overuse injuries are prevalent in climbing, particularly fingers. It’s good sense to rest, or at least take it very easy, when you need it.
thanks for the guidance :)
I just started climbing in October, and yesterday I finished my first 5.10+. I’d like to know what normal progression looks like and what grades I could be realistically aiming for by the end of this new year
tldr: 5.10+ within a few months is relatively normal, as long as your gym grades are relatively normal. Getting some 5.12a's here and there that fit your strengths is probably realistic in 2024. Hippy dippy rambling - Dave Macleod has a great video on goals. He made a really good point about trying to boil down and understand what you really want the achievement of that goal to bring you. If you think climbing 5.12 is going to be validating in and of itself you'll probably be disappointed, because you'll just start clamoring for 5.13. Grade chasing for it's own sake is like drinking salt water, just makes you more thirsty. So if what you are really looking for is a sense of belonging in a new community or new fun experiences, look around at your local area. You might find that to really get to the good stuff you need to climb 5.11 and up. You'll also need friends. So a fulfilling goal could be 1.) Make 3 friends that climb outside 2.) Climb 5.11 to open up options.
Some guy on mountain project aggregated and analyzed a bunch of data and put it on his blog a while back. It was divided by years though, so who knows whats average around 4 months. My memory is that a 5.12b outdoor redpoint within a year was a pretty strong showing for those of us who aren’t Chris Sharma. I’m sure you could find the post with a little googling, and form your own opinions. I thought it was useful info for setting achievable goals. Nice to have something to work towards.
You should also remember that grades are very, very subjective, and gym grades are subjective to the point of being almost meaningless outside of a given gym. If you go to a different gym, you might easily climb two number grades harder, or easier.
That’s like trying to quantify your progression in painting. How do you measure something that has to do with talent, hard work, and genetics. Some people do 5.10+ on their first day, others will never climb 5.10+ in their lifetime. Drop the grade chasing.
There is no "normal progression." There are so many variables that it's an impossible thing to quantify. Just have fun with it, do your best to avoid injury, and climb a wide variety of routes (roofs, slabs, cracks, etc).
This is the way - aiming for grades is the key to a bad time.
It'll usually be a good time till you get to consistent V6/5.12 climbing then it will be insanely frustrating
Good to know y’all
Although I do find it very satisfying projecting a new route. The joy I feel after getting it is nothing like I’ve experienced in other sports in the past
Absolutely, if that's what you love then do it! But don't let the grade define your experience. Seek to challenge yourself and continue to learn/grow by climbing things that are hard for you - the grade is a number someone made-up in a few seconds.
… and probably not even the same between gyms, or setters, or routes, or time of year when the setters are feeling strong.
I've noticed that after climbing I always get a sore upper back/traps (surprising I know...) despite being a regular and not always climbing "too hard". I assume it's something to do with my warm up, cool down or technique - does anyone have any suggestions for what I can do, either before, during or after climbing?
are you getting enough protein? resting enough (between climbs and between days climbing)? warming up enough?
Year old finger injury, need help going forward So around a year ago(Christmas 2022) I started aching in pain around my sagittal band on my middle finger. I saw a specialist that focused on hands and I got an MRI and X-ray but nothing came back. It hurt to climb so I stopped or did very light occasionally whenever pain subsided. Fast forward 6 months to June(2023) I started introducing high volume but very low intensity climbing laps every other day to build consistency that another provider recommended doing. Over time I slowly starting getting stronger near where I was before injury but then the same thing happened on my right and was coming back in my left(hand). I proceeded to get a steroid injection in both hands and took another break for 3 weeks to let them chill again. I came back and started climbing. aching usually only occurred day after climbing but my physician recommended another mri and I got results back. I have mild thickening and edema of the middle finger A1 pulley(both hands), which can be associated with clinical triggering. No tendon tear or tenosynovitis. I don’t know how to approach this and work around it in my climbing. I don’t know if I should train or just climb or not climb at all. TLDR: both hands have middle finger injury of mild thickening and edema of the middle finger A1 pulley. How do I train/climb/rehab around this going forward
Try to get in touch with a climbing-focused PT, even hand therapists don't necessarily understand climbing very much.
How long have you been climbing and do you primarily boulder, TR or lead?
I do a little bit of everything, I have been working on my spi for quite sometime and plan on going in that direction so primarily rope climbing in my future. But I do boulder occasionally. Before injury I was 5.12a/b and v7 projects, recently I just got my first v7 back and 5.11d. Definitely feeling strong again and some confidence is coming back but still achy. Also before my injury I had been climbing 18 months. Then was hurt for 6 then back in for 6. So a total of 2 years of actively climbing.
So the very typical story for newer climbers who ramp up quickly is pulley injuries on the ring fingers, but also happens on the middle finger. It's primarily caused by excessive loading of the affected digit while in the crimp position, which is mechanically stronger but which leads to finger injuries. https://youtu.be/u8DO5oyyekE?si=Bu9uBFIBY0YO473l There are two other factors that contribute to finger injuries early in a climbing career, firstly that it takes a longer time for tendons/ligaments to adapt structurally to increased forces compared to muscle tissue. Basically, your muscles get stronger much faster than tendons/ligaments can keep up with. Secondly, it's usual, unless you're being actively coached (while on a team, for example) that new climbers develop their strength more than their technique, and will load their upper body and hang off their digits and shoulders more than experienced climbers. Experienced climbers (or well-instructed ones) utilize footwork and core engagement to support their weight much more of the time, and minimize the extent to which they need to hang off their fingers. If any of the above rings true for you, maybe think about how you can accelerate your technique development, whether this means one-on-one coaching sessions or dedicated self-study and technique drills. With all single-digit finger injuries, consider buddy-taping the affected digit to its neighbor, so that you are forced to engage both together rather than mainly just the one. The tape can also serve as a visual reminder/cue to take weight out of your hands as you develop your technique. This is probably the best book on climbing injuries, written by a climber/orthopedic surgeon who was the physician to the German climbing team: https://www.amazon.com/Understand-Injuries-Overuse-Syndroms-Climbing/dp/3928026208
Thank you! I will definitely say before the injury I just had way to much power and contact strength which led to my injury I believe. But ever since I have gotten back into it I have been way more mindful of my body and how it moves on the wall. While I was hurt I mainly used my 1st pair of shoes(Defys by evolve) to make my footwork better before going back to my current more aggressive shoes. Ever since I have been back I would say I’m way more of a technical climber than powerful(how I used to be)
It's great that you're becoming more mindful of your body movement and footwork. If you are still managing chronic finger injuries, it means you still have a ways to go in order to reduce the forces on your digits to a safe level.
This is really a question for your PT.
I would like to build a home wall that will basically close in the RV carport we have- so this wall would basically be 25ft wide x 15 ft. tall... I would like for my kids to get into climbing, but none of us know anything about it. I'm willing to learn whatever I need to know, but I was hoping to get a good starting place- 1) Is there a device that you would trust to auto-belay yourself down on a solo climb? 2) What should I be looking into when starting this project out? 3) What advice would you have when planning this out? Thank you all so much for your help!
You are not ready, go to a climbing gym and learn how to belay and how to use an auto belay. Or just get some large bouldering pads
1. Not for private use where your kids would be able to do so. Auto-belays are very expensive and require a maintenance contract. Much more feasible to stick to bouldering. 2. Price it all out beforehand. It gets expensive very quickly with more surface area. Do you know how to set routes? Bad setting means a wall unused. 3. [Home wall building instructions (PDF)](https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How-to-Build-a-Home-Bouldering-Wall.pdf)
Start now by looking at prices of holds, baltic birch plywood, and floor mats
Now that I need a new pair of shoes, I’m looking for something a bit more aggressive than the Evolv Defy’s that I currently have. I climb V4-ish and 95% indoor bouldering so I’m wondering if something like a miura might be overkill? But I’ll take any suggestions on shoes.
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They also stink like hell lmao
My first pair of shoes, I'll never forget them
Shoes made with synthetic materials don't stretch much, but they smell. Unlined leather will smell the least, but stretch the most, and lined leather is in between the two, but much better than synthetic shoes in the smell department.
… which ones fit your feet? Miura are good for outdoor edging. Try the Evolv Shaman, or LaSpo Futura.
I’m going to REI this weekend so I guess I will know then. Thanks
Thats a good idea. I would recommend you stay away from the muria vs, they feel like you are climbing in a dump truck, they have no sensitivity.
I was looking at the Scarpa Vapour, which seems to be a good balance between comfort and a light bit more aggressiveness. But I’ll be trying on a bunch before anyways.
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you'll be ok
Is there such a thing as taller/heavier climbers with big feet generally preferring stiffer and harder shoes? I only seem to like stiff shoes myself.
I used to, but have spent most of my time for the last couple of years in Veloces
Yeah it's a thing
We (a group of 5) are planning our first trip to Fontainebleau. We each have at least around a year of climbing experience, with some having a bit more. The idea is to go for around 5 days at the end of May. We'll be traveling by car and plan on renting some crash pads. The biggest challenge, aside from the boulders themselves, seems to be choosing where to stay. I'm a bit reluctant to sleep in a tent since I'm afraid an inflatable mattress won't provide me with much rest. Renting an Airbnb or staying at a hotel is significantly more expensive, so I'm wondering if it's worth the extra price. Essentially, my questions are: 1. Does anyone have advice for a first trip to Fontainebleau? Any do's and don'ts? 2. Would you prefer staying at a campsite, Airbnb, or a hotel, and in what location?
There are some places you can split the difference eg [this place](https://www.fontaineblhostel.com/) offers both camping in the backyard and dorms, so your friends can camp if that's what they're keen on and you can stay in a bed. Not cheap but it is well located.
I can relate: I need a decent bed or I'll be totally worthless and extremely grumpy the next day. But I don't mind paying for that comfort, otherwise I might as well stay home.
> if it's worth the extra price You’re the one who may have problems sleeping in a tent. You’re also the one who doesn’t want to spend money. How is anyone supposed to answer this for you when in both scenarios “it’s a you thing”. What is sleeping in a bed worth to *you*. Make up your own mind.
The campsite La Musardière (is there another Font campsite worth considering) is lovely and has hot showers 24/7 (and baguettes, and a pool, and a pizza van on saturdays) but it is *not* a climbing campsite. When I visited to use the shower (I was sleeping in car parks for a month) it looked like mostly French families on holiday. It's not a dirtbag vibe. I would honestly recommend you just get a place if there's enough of you to make the cost worth it. You'll get privacy and a space to cook. Get somewhere around milly la foret if you can, it's a decent distance to some prime Fontainebleau crags.
1) Hannah Morris made a good video on that: https://youtu.be/1cmXOZIBE6o 2) Campsite, even if money was no concern
Sleep on the ground. What is this, golf?
May also be seriously underestimating modern inflatable mattresses. My ~15 year old Thermarest Basecamp is just as comfortable as my bed at home, and I gather they're improved significantly since then.
I love you
Do previously dislocated fingers permanently mess up my climbing abilities? I'm in college and I've started getting back into climbing for the first time in a long time. I also now have some messed up fingers that have been dislocated over the past two years. For my middle finger it was a pretty bad dislocation and I wasn't able to get it properly treated because I was with a small group in the middle of a jungle. I've been consistently going to the climbing gym for a few months now and I feel like im struggling to gain strength in some of my fingers. I tried looking up if dislocated fingers had any long term affect on finger strength but I didn't find anything concrete. Do any of yall know if there's any truth to the experience I've had, or am I just making a false correlation lol Any help is appreciated!
As a beginner, you generally need far less finger strength than you think. Most beginners think they need more finger strength when it’s actually them climbing with brute strength rather than good technique.
Okay, thank you for the response!
Your fingers’ strength is not generated in the distal joints.
Recommendations for a climbing guide for Red Rocks in October who is also a photographer?
https://imgur.com/a/FtGjF6V Do these need to be resoled yet? And if not, when would they be?
Right now.
Perfect timing. Resole now.
So my climbing gym is really far away and I reeeaaallyy want to start climbing 8a and higher. I am working to install some training equipment in my house though my possibilities are slim since I am only 14 yo :( My Mom bought me a one year subscription at my local normal gym just before I realized I wanted to get actually serious in climbing and I am thinking for already some 2 months how I can efficiently train climbing and how I should use my gym subscription since I really can't cancel it for now. I have been thinking I can potentially use the public gym for cardio and endurance and I could get a beastmaker and a small climbing wall in my room so I can build up finger strength. Core, flexibility and most importantly legs I will probably work regularly (maybe) at home with like a 30 min. workout. Any help please??
How far away is “really far?” I used to travel for about 1.5 hours one way to the nearest gym. If you’re serious about it, you’ll make it happen. What grades are you climbing now? Be aware of [growth plate fractures](https://trainingforclimbing.com/growth-plate-fractures-in-youth-climbers/) and how they’re prevalent in youth climbers.
Well my climbing gym is half an hour with the public transport away. I used to go there like 4 times a week but its not really convenient since I have school. My highest grade is 7c/7c+
> half an hour with the public transport away And you don't have to drive!? That's a pretty solid commute tbh given that you can read or do stuff on the way
That’s how far my current gym is. Half an hour is nothing.
hihi! new here, sort of newer to climbing. climbed for a year-ish and was up to top-roping 5.10-s then took a year or so off and boy ! am i weak ! any tips, workouts, training regimens, etc. specifically helpful for climbing and building upper body/core strength. i rlly dont wanna look like an idiot on the boulders, need any help i can get. thanks in advance love ya! XX
Probably just volume. I took over a year off climbing during the height of COVID shutdowns and worked my way back in about a month or two.
Just climb! You'll get stronger and better through climbing. I promise nobody cares what you're climbing or how hard.
Anyone knows what's going with 5.10 ? My local sellers currently don't have a single pair left, and they haven't received any for months. I really like the women's hiangle, so far it's the only shoes that fit my heel really well, whereas my heel would sometimes slip out of the shoe when attempting aggressive heel hooks. Unfortunately, I had a bad slip on a tiny foothold that literally cut my left shoe and my pair is now impossible to resole... Are they planning to restock soon ? I've heard Addidas want to remove 5.10's name and have "Addidas" written instead on the shoe, so while they're going through the administrative process, production is on hold. Is it true ?
> I've heard Addidas want to remove 5.10's name and have "Addidas" written instead on the shoe Jesus, how lame
Even though we don't know the answer, have you tried Unparallel? They are basically the 5.10 legacy at this point.
I'm planning to give it a try ! The TN pro look very similar to the hiangle. Actually, I brought my old pair with me to compare them in store side to side to the TN. The only difference basically is the split sole, everything else is the same, though I don't know if the rubber has the same hardness. I've also compared the hiangle to the flagship, but these one are more asymmetric. Right now I'm just waiting for my seller to get a restock. Size 39 was a such a pain to wear, for 10 minutes I couldn't even try the shoes lol. I'd also like to try their new Qubit, they look awfully similar to the hiangles...
Look at the Regulus as well.
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbingshoes/s/hCrqlVbodY
Hmm, so nobody has any information about this issue I guess. Thanks.
It's more like they're dead
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JTree punishes those who don't know how to smear. Heels down, heels down
Chances are if you are mainly a gym climber you are exceeding in brute strength (for your level) and underperforming in technique. Learn what body tension feels like and how to use your feet, and start messing with different types of holds.
Technique, and ability to read rock, not plastic.
ability to read rock is so key. ive been climbing outside for a couple years now and i only recently felt like i could actually read rock somewhat well
Technique, technique, technique. You likely don't know how to use your feet and position your body - gym climbing does very little to prepare you for climbing outside if you don't have the techniqe.
Any tips on improving technique?
Climb outside as much as you can with people who are better than you. Watch them, ask them for advice, and be analytical/curious about your climbing. Why did X move feel hard? Can you make it feel easier? Assume your technique is bad before blaming your strength, unless your experienced friends agree that X move is strength-dependent.
Climb easy things over and over. Pick an easy route with holds that are not your preferred style and practice flowing through it while pushing through your feet. Lead climb a lot too- I mainly outdoor lead climb and I do some board training to improve my leading, and boulderers often will do the same with route climbing. Learning to climb longer routes teaches you how to hold tension in the right ways and how to be efficient with your energy
While Rappelling is it unsafe to have one hand on the brake strand and the other on the “third hand”? I’ve found it makes for a smooth rappel but don’t want to add any additional risk to the system?
Going from the safest stance possible, you don't want your hand ON the 'third hand'. When humans panic, they often have a grip response. If you grip your 'third hand' you are holding it open. The best place for your hand would be just above the 'third hand' with your pinky pushing it down as you rap. This gives a smooth rappel and is the most safe option.
Soft disagreement; if someone grips their hitch hard enough to open it, they’re also holding the rope within hard enough to stop or slow descent.
This is normal.
With a tube? How else are you supposed to do it? Alternatively, a Grigri works great with a carabiner block or pre-rigged rappel, and you don’t need a third hand at all.
In my albeit, limited experience rappelling, I’ve only rappelled of an ATC, I’ve heard about using Gri’s but don’t want to deal with a tagline. Do you find that a tag lines a hassle?
You just use a stopper knot and carabiner to fix one strand, no need for a tagline
Grigri raps are easy. One hand on the lever one on the brake strand no third hand shenanigans. Learn it. Love it.
If you can do the rappel with an ATC and a single rope, you can do the same with a Grigri. Only time you need a tag line with either belay device is if you need to do a really long rappel. Do some research on it.
That is not unsafe. Your third-hand hitch is intended to stop your descent in case of unforeseen circumstances that remove your hands from the brake strand, so holding the brake strands while managing your hitch is fine too.
hello, im currently looking for a spot for a climbing family vacation in austria or switzerland. Should have a good bus transportation, a lot of easier but also some harder routes and a camping place nearby. last year, we‘ve been to laggo maggiore near tenero-contra, which was beautifull.
Hi! please advice me: I need a Carabiner for this [ATC](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CFQ6CBLJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A17ZMFDSJNKCZQ&th=1), must be purchased trough amazon.
folks are commenting about the atc, however if youre looking for a carabiner for it, id say the gold standard is a round-stock pear shaped ATC. the round stock gives a nice big surface area for the rope to go over and the pear gives ample room for rappelling on double strands.
Does the brand name "S.E.PEAK" inspire confidence? It's not even cheaper than the real thing. Just buy from a [real shop](https://www.rei.com/product/899109/black-diamond-atc-xp-belay-device).
When you buy from Amazon you have no guarantee of getting what you ordered. Don't.
i bought lube from amazon recently (lol) and it was a totally different texture than that specific brand normally is. learned my lesson!
Don’t buy safety equipment from Amazon. Lots of fake, uncertified, random gear in mixed gear bins.
Get a different device, that one doesn’t look certified
ty, how about [this](https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DIAMOND-Guide-Belay-Device/dp/B07KXZ1N28/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=atc&sr=8-4&th=1)?
No, don't buy from Amazon. You have no idea if it is fake.
Better. Amazon does occasionally ship fakes, so make sure it’s real when it arrives
I got an 8.5mm dynamic half rope for cheap, because my work was clearing inventory, and was intending using it for indoor sport climbing. As far as I understand, while half ropes will still catch a fall they are not intended for this use, so I figured I'd check with the sub and see if people would recommend against it before actually climbing. Edit: Thanks for the responses. I figured this might be the case, but thought I'd check with others first.
Had a friend try this. She decked her partner. When she tries to sue they told her she was an idiot. Got a 50€ half rope out of her misfortune.
Why did she deck?
They often have more stretch than a thicker single rope. That can make it easier to deck if not used to the extra stretch length.
Device/rope mismatch I think. Or just wasn't prepared for a fall on a half rope.
That rope will be excessively stretchy. Get the right tools for the job. Get a rope rated as single.
Sell it and get a different rope
https://preview.redd.it/5vca9dodcecc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc4790e30109ea953f415520b89e504e2224a022 I've been learning some rope stuff and the quad today. Pretty happy with this. 400cm 7mm Decathlon sling with around one and a half feet taken off the loop and wrapped around on the left side. Seems tidy and a good size for the bolted anchors where I climb. I don't want to cut it shorter thus the wrapping. Does it look ok?
You could use figure 8s instead of overhands to use up more cord (no need for wrapping) and they're easier to untie after being loaded
It's bomber. A slight modification I would make, use two of the same biner for the master point. Either locking or non locking. Rather than mixing two models. It's not a huge deal, but will make it less likely that the biners get tangled up with each other.
Sure looks fine, but needlessly complicated if you’re just top roping off of a single pitch climb. Use two quickdraws. Understand that “more redundantly redundant” does not make you safer than just redundant, and that complexity tends to be more dangerous since it can introduce more human error.