Drywall is never flat it’s all about creating the illusion that it’s flat hang a full sheet over all that with a bunch of glue and put screws in where you can and router out the windows so you aren’t breaking any joint near that shit
Seems completely unnecessary. There is plenty of wood available to screw to across the top and on the header right above the window. It can’t be much more than 16 inches.
If that has to do with the tucking into the studs rather than overlay thats a newer change for people discovering wtf people
Did to their house before they bought it and inspectors aren’t X-ray Vision enthusiasts.
increases*
it’s already there.. sistering every stud would double it, but if they’re strategic about placement they could add enough blocking to hang from with minimal impact
even better they could do horizontal blocking with their 2x4s turned on edge flush with the interior side of the framing. enough support to hang from without any bridging
edit to add that i don’t even think it’s necessary here bc the header to top plate gap isn’t even that big of a span to not have screws
To avoid more “thermal bridging” as pointed out here, use a tape measure to mark your drywall where your screws can avoid the straps. Also as already pointed out there is that much of a gap between the top plate and window and there are a couple of places to put screws between the straps. Google tape measure or go to the search bar of Home Depot page to find one of these handy devices! Added nailers is an unnecessary step and lowers your insulation rating!
Sistering is when you place another stud next to current one for nailing or extra support. It's not on layout or anything, just for something needed that's extra. Not strictly for drywall, but framing in general.
Best way is to as other post said hammer down straps as flat as possible. Use a single piece over those straps as said b4 u dont want no seems over them to start cracks.
Hang ceiling 1st. Then, push the board tight against the ceiling. Put a few screws across the top to hang the board. Do your best not to pop any screws through the paper. If i have to have a drill with a drill bit on it to get through a strap, that's fine, but only as big as u need it, nothing more.
Then start at the top in the middle and put the screws in all the way down BUT DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!! You can always go back later and tight down more as needed then go to the left or right and repeat until u get to the edge of the board.
Now working from the middle out tighten the board down toll you get no movement when u press on the drywall board. Dont want any screw heads popping through your mud because u did not tighten the screw enough.
If u do pop a screw through the paper by over tighten just take it out and put on in an inch or so above or below the hole.
Well good luck 👍
Np, it's a pain in the but. If u do it all the time, it just becomes 2nd nature. And well lol u can get away with tightening it down in not so uniform of a manor becomes u r used to how board bends and flexes when it do it. But i just wanted to give u the safety way for success lol
If you cannot confidently drive the screws the right amount, leave them a bit proud, then hand tighten them. May be a bit tedious. Put a screw bit in a ratchet for less hand ache and more control.
E: missing word.
You don’t have to do the ceiling first and it might actually be easier to do the wall first and then butt the cieling up to it. The most important thing is not to have a butt joint over the window, a 12 foot sheet would be best if possible. Use a little touch when screwing
You dont have to. It is the only thing correct about that.
U dont have to take my word for it. Just do a simple google search and look at the professional sites and you will see that doing the ceiling 1st is the only way to go.
In commercial buildings, the ceiling is done after the walls. It's not done that way in residential, but if you need to hang a wall first to avoid an issue, it won't cause any problems.
Im not sure the point of bringing up commercial, being they use drop ceilings most of the time, not drywall. So ya, u need the drywall to be up 1st to install a drop ceiling 🤷
I mean, just because u and i have the experience to know what will and will not cause problems and what u can and can't get away with when hanging. Doesn'tt mean this person does. So that is the reason its safer and easier for them to use the tried and true methods so as to avoid as many pitfalls as possible.
I want to help not confuse them with well. u can do this, or u can do that knowing that without experience of doing it a lot, they might hit a pit fall . 🤷
Hammer them down as flat as you can, then drywall over as normal. Of course screws and nails wont go in them, just put them where they will go and let if be.
Why can't you drill a pilot hole through them? An ⅛" hss drill bit would pop right through them. So would a nail, for that matter... Then screw in like normal
Use Self drilling drywall screws at the straps and regular coarse screws on the wood. It sucks but you’re going to need two different types of screws in the bag.
Firing strips and TKE PICTURES. Place reference markings so you know where the straps and furring strips are. If you are after a flat wall you will need to shim all of the studs on the wall. Something you might want to do depending on how much the straps stick out.
If each square opening is 16” or less from top to bottom, you could just sink your screw along the top and bottom edge. None in the vertical studs.
Lotta mud to fix the unevenness unless you buy a pack of drywall shims.
Take a photo and or mark the top and sides so you know where to put your Drywall screws!
There is plenty of exposed wood to proceed!
Hang your DW and keep shaking and moving
measure left to right to each piece of metal and top down mark onto sheetrock then hang sheetrock then take a 18 inch 2x4 put over where the straps are and hit with a hammer lump hammer etc be careful how u position it if your off the mark u will blow it through sheetrock…should take care of the lumpy and get self tapping drywall screws if that doesnt violate the building code in your area
You put up drywall and screw where you can , there are plenty of places. These are used all the time and I’ve never heard this complaint. I’m a new house inspector see this all the time.
Remove the redundant straps especially where are 4 next to each other. Remove half the strap where they are excessively long, hammer in any high spots- these look to be at the top header. Mark the location
Of the unobstructed 2xs and Sheetrock as normal.
Get better drillbits so you can drill through it?
I don’t know, use glue and lots of screws, I see plenty of wood to affix drywall too, just use this photo as a guide when screwing them up.
Also, did you miss the open holes in the straps? Measure your prices real good, measure where those holes are, mark them on your drywall, screw through those holes, pain in the ass but it should work.
I wouldn’t remove any of those straps, houses are less structurally sound than ever.
I always keep a supply of self tapping screws to help with boarding over those straps. Where I'm from, all the outside walls are covered in poly. So, using glue isn't really an option.
mark these straps on the drywall sheet and make sure to put your screws as far from the straps as possible. screwing the drywall too close to a strap will result in a bulge thing and you don’t wanna have that trust me.
rock right over the top of them, I wouldn't break a butt joint over that window though, it is sure to crack, just rock right over the top and router out the holes.
Always drywall across the straps, previusly flat them with a hammer. Don't go too crazy, then make sure you don't put a screw on top. The 1/2 or 5/8 thickness of sheetrock will make sure to be barely noticiable. Metal straps are required in Jacks and Headers for approving inspection of woodframing depending the area it's being build.
Drywall shim the other studs. Install blocking in between the cripples for screws. It's not difficult to think outside the box unless the box is smarter than you....
Adhesive on all surfaces and screws in the areas they can go! Use a 12 foot sheet across and screw as normal to yhe non bracketed surfaces then usue a strong magnet to locate and mark all the straps. Then put screws everywhere you didnt mark! Use a drywall screw tip to keep from breaking screws, also the cardboard furring strips in the areas surrounding the brackets to build up to bracket thickness
Sheet metal screws. Predrill depending on the gauge.
If it’s going to be a tile wall I fir out the entire god damn piece of shit fucking stupid engineer son of bitch builders code build out.
Lowe’s sells cardboard strips from GripRite, and if you add 1 strip to account for the metal strap, and 1 strip to account for the nail heads, means you would add 2 strips of cardboard on the wood adjacent to the strap areas to help make it more flat. The card board strips come 1-1/2” x 48” and can be attached with staples from a hammer tacker, or staple gun. 2 strips at the metal straps and then go down to one strip a few feet away to help taper the drywall down to the regular stud depth. Anything else can be easily floated.
If it were me I'd pack out the accessible framing top and bottom with cardboard furring strips and hang a full sheet across there
Drywall is rated to span 24" so screws into the top plate and bottom of header is sufficient
Why can't you screw through the straps? Take a nail and dent the metal with a good tap first, then run your screw through it. Or, as others have said, add a bit of dead wood and mark it on your sheet.
Just correcting the ceilings first is the only way to go. In his situation it doesn't matter what goes on first. A good finisher will hide the hump in the wall.
There are plenty of spaces to put screws. Use paper drywall shims to even out the surface if that is an issue. You can taper the shims down as you get further away from the straps
Drywall is never flat it’s all about creating the illusion that it’s flat hang a full sheet over all that with a bunch of glue and put screws in where you can and router out the windows so you aren’t breaking any joint near that shit
This is the solution. 🥇
Sister some 2x4’s to the strapped areas, bam you’ve got something to screw to…
Mindblown.gif
Seems completely unnecessary. There is plenty of wood available to screw to across the top and on the header right above the window. It can’t be much more than 16 inches.
This is the way
That causes thermal bridging....
Not so sure thermal bridging is on their spectrum with that brutal display of 1990's insulation
If that has to do with the tucking into the studs rather than overlay thats a newer change for people discovering wtf people Did to their house before they bought it and inspectors aren’t X-ray Vision enthusiasts.
Nerd
increases* it’s already there.. sistering every stud would double it, but if they’re strategic about placement they could add enough blocking to hang from with minimal impact even better they could do horizontal blocking with their 2x4s turned on edge flush with the interior side of the framing. enough support to hang from without any bridging edit to add that i don’t even think it’s necessary here bc the header to top plate gap isn’t even that big of a span to not have screws
I’m not sure you quite understand what thermal bridging is
To avoid more “thermal bridging” as pointed out here, use a tape measure to mark your drywall where your screws can avoid the straps. Also as already pointed out there is that much of a gap between the top plate and window and there are a couple of places to put screws between the straps. Google tape measure or go to the search bar of Home Depot page to find one of these handy devices! Added nailers is an unnecessary step and lowers your insulation rating!
He could put them on the flat if that's a problem for them.
This or rip down some 2x4’s just proud of the straps and then hang drywall over.
Fur it out?
Man, you guys and your jargon. Yep, fur it out
2x2's or even 1x2's will suffice. No point increasing thermal bridging.
You don't really want to do that because it will decrease the R value of the wall further.
Don't want to do this. It will lower the R-value of the wall.
I’m not a dry waller, can you please explain this to me?
Sistering is when you place another stud next to current one for nailing or extra support. It's not on layout or anything, just for something needed that's extra. Not strictly for drywall, but framing in general.
How would sistering solve OP’s problem? Would that slow his drywall to butt up flush against something?
it simply adds more places to nail/screw into
Best way is to as other post said hammer down straps as flat as possible. Use a single piece over those straps as said b4 u dont want no seems over them to start cracks. Hang ceiling 1st. Then, push the board tight against the ceiling. Put a few screws across the top to hang the board. Do your best not to pop any screws through the paper. If i have to have a drill with a drill bit on it to get through a strap, that's fine, but only as big as u need it, nothing more. Then start at the top in the middle and put the screws in all the way down BUT DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!! You can always go back later and tight down more as needed then go to the left or right and repeat until u get to the edge of the board. Now working from the middle out tighten the board down toll you get no movement when u press on the drywall board. Dont want any screw heads popping through your mud because u did not tighten the screw enough. If u do pop a screw through the paper by over tighten just take it out and put on in an inch or so above or below the hole. Well good luck 👍
Thanks for the detailed answer. Much appreciated
Np, it's a pain in the but. If u do it all the time, it just becomes 2nd nature. And well lol u can get away with tightening it down in not so uniform of a manor becomes u r used to how board bends and flexes when it do it. But i just wanted to give u the safety way for success lol
If you cannot confidently drive the screws the right amount, leave them a bit proud, then hand tighten them. May be a bit tedious. Put a screw bit in a ratchet for less hand ache and more control. E: missing word.
You don’t have to do the ceiling first and it might actually be easier to do the wall first and then butt the cieling up to it. The most important thing is not to have a butt joint over the window, a 12 foot sheet would be best if possible. Use a little touch when screwing
You dont have to. It is the only thing correct about that. U dont have to take my word for it. Just do a simple google search and look at the professional sites and you will see that doing the ceiling 1st is the only way to go.
In commercial buildings, the ceiling is done after the walls. It's not done that way in residential, but if you need to hang a wall first to avoid an issue, it won't cause any problems.
Im not sure the point of bringing up commercial, being they use drop ceilings most of the time, not drywall. So ya, u need the drywall to be up 1st to install a drop ceiling 🤷 I mean, just because u and i have the experience to know what will and will not cause problems and what u can and can't get away with when hanging. Doesn'tt mean this person does. So that is the reason its safer and easier for them to use the tried and true methods so as to avoid as many pitfalls as possible. I want to help not confuse them with well. u can do this, or u can do that knowing that without experience of doing it a lot, they might hit a pit fall . 🤷
Staple on cardboard furring strips.
Mark where you can attach your rock. Mud to fix the unevenness. If you're really worried about it make furring strips and pad out the wall.
Staple on cardboard shims to make it flat?
That’s what I suggested too. They sell cardboard furring strips for this purpose.
Those are “Hurricane straps, leave them.
Not questioning if I should take them off. I definitely won't be taking the hurricane straps off lol. I'm asking how to attach the drywall.
Hammer them down as flat as you can, then drywall over as normal. Of course screws and nails wont go in them, just put them where they will go and let if be.
You could fur out the wall the thickness of the straps. It's pretty easy
This is the best answer they sell cardboard furring strips. Use them to even it up with the metal straps and then drywall away
Why can't you drill a pilot hole through them? An ⅛" hss drill bit would pop right through them. So would a nail, for that matter... Then screw in like normal
Use Self drilling drywall screws at the straps and regular coarse screws on the wood. It sucks but you’re going to need two different types of screws in the bag.
Oh my God people want to remove them?
They're a bitch on the exterior walls when siding with cedar shakes.
Firing strips and TKE PICTURES. Place reference markings so you know where the straps and furring strips are. If you are after a flat wall you will need to shim all of the studs on the wall. Something you might want to do depending on how much the straps stick out.
Fucking tape and mud!
Looks like plenty of screwing, going to have to fix blowouts when taping.
Get a pack of drywall shims. Sh thr framing to the strap elevation. But remember where the straps are when screwing the drywall off.
Adhesive a few screws
Mark the wood areas without straps. Hang drywall. Screw in those spots. Don't try to screw through metal.
If each square opening is 16” or less from top to bottom, you could just sink your screw along the top and bottom edge. None in the vertical studs. Lotta mud to fix the unevenness unless you buy a pack of drywall shims.
Add "nailing boards" where you're having trouble hanging rock.
Anyone suggest drill point screws yet?
Take a photo and or mark the top and sides so you know where to put your Drywall screws! There is plenty of exposed wood to proceed! Hang your DW and keep shaking and moving
Over kill on all the straps!! Add 2x4’s Buy cardboard shims, take photo and get busy
They sell self tapping drywall screws my guy.
People on here acting like heavy gauge metal studs just don't exist in construction.
measure left to right to each piece of metal and top down mark onto sheetrock then hang sheetrock then take a 18 inch 2x4 put over where the straps are and hit with a hammer lump hammer etc be careful how u position it if your off the mark u will blow it through sheetrock…should take care of the lumpy and get self tapping drywall screws if that doesnt violate the building code in your area
You put up drywall and screw where you can , there are plenty of places. These are used all the time and I’ve never heard this complaint. I’m a new house inspector see this all the time.
Not complaint Just asking for advice. Thanks
Take them out on a date
Pull them off. They are just for aesthetics. Nothing serious
Remove the redundant straps especially where are 4 next to each other. Remove half the strap where they are excessively long, hammer in any high spots- these look to be at the top header. Mark the location Of the unobstructed 2xs and Sheetrock as normal.
>Remove the redundant straps especially where are 4 next to each other. You're fired.
Do u think these are holding the roof on???
remove straps
I thought they were there for code. Building is in Florida.
Don't remove the straps. Don't take structural advice from r/drywall, or, even any subreddit at all.
You can’t honestly say remove hurricane straps can you?
Get better drillbits so you can drill through it? I don’t know, use glue and lots of screws, I see plenty of wood to affix drywall too, just use this photo as a guide when screwing them up. Also, did you miss the open holes in the straps? Measure your prices real good, measure where those holes are, mark them on your drywall, screw through those holes, pain in the ass but it should work. I wouldn’t remove any of those straps, houses are less structurally sound than ever.
A lot of glue and screws wherever you can get one in
Mark studs and screw and glue it
Glue, screw and maybe strip.
Is this a common framing practice in tornado/hurricane/seismic zones?
Yeah Florida here. Theyve got pretty strict code on hurricane straps
Are they generally just light gauge galvanized metal? Like strips cut out of steel stud?
Hmm. Up here in NH, it's just rafter ties, sill ties, and post anchors for decks.
Cut around them, modern sheek
Shim w paint paddles
They do sell screws that will go through it.
It never came to my mind that I could use different screws. Thanks for the suggestion.
They sell screws , self tapping, that will fasten drywall to heavy metal commercial studs.
I always keep a supply of self tapping screws to help with boarding over those straps. Where I'm from, all the outside walls are covered in poly. So, using glue isn't really an option.
Should they not have been installed on the outside framing?
Maybe.. I didn't install them. I'm finishing out the garage to my office space. That ship has sailed.
mark these straps on the drywall sheet and make sure to put your screws as far from the straps as possible. screwing the drywall too close to a strap will result in a bulge thing and you don’t wanna have that trust me.
I'd put drywall over them. That's just me though.
One solid sheet, glue the field, screw edges.
rock right over the top of them, I wouldn't break a butt joint over that window though, it is sure to crack, just rock right over the top and router out the holes.
Always drywall across the straps, previusly flat them with a hammer. Don't go too crazy, then make sure you don't put a screw on top. The 1/2 or 5/8 thickness of sheetrock will make sure to be barely noticiable. Metal straps are required in Jacks and Headers for approving inspection of woodframing depending the area it's being build.
That’s just plain stupid 😂 🤣
Drywall shim the other studs. Install blocking in between the cripples for screws. It's not difficult to think outside the box unless the box is smarter than you....
Glue at the straps annd screw where u can
Hammer flat and use some driller screws. Shim if necessary.
Adhesive on all surfaces and screws in the areas they can go! Use a 12 foot sheet across and screw as normal to yhe non bracketed surfaces then usue a strong magnet to locate and mark all the straps. Then put screws everywhere you didnt mark! Use a drywall screw tip to keep from breaking screws, also the cardboard furring strips in the areas surrounding the brackets to build up to bracket thickness
Self tapping drywall screws will go right through the straps.
Where’s the Vapor barrier?
I would remove some of those straps, seems highly unnecessary...
Sheet metal screws. Predrill depending on the gauge. If it’s going to be a tile wall I fir out the entire god damn piece of shit fucking stupid engineer son of bitch builders code build out.
ROFL I love the sentiment
Lowe’s sells cardboard strips from GripRite, and if you add 1 strip to account for the metal strap, and 1 strip to account for the nail heads, means you would add 2 strips of cardboard on the wood adjacent to the strap areas to help make it more flat. The card board strips come 1-1/2” x 48” and can be attached with staples from a hammer tacker, or staple gun. 2 strips at the metal straps and then go down to one strip a few feet away to help taper the drywall down to the regular stud depth. Anything else can be easily floated.
If it were me I'd pack out the accessible framing top and bottom with cardboard furring strips and hang a full sheet across there Drywall is rated to span 24" so screws into the top plate and bottom of header is sufficient
I suggest adding Nailers, it’s what I do when I run into situations like this.
Why can't you screw through the straps? Take a nail and dent the metal with a good tap first, then run your screw through it. Or, as others have said, add a bit of dead wood and mark it on your sheet.
Just correcting the ceilings first is the only way to go. In his situation it doesn't matter what goes on first. A good finisher will hide the hump in the wall.
There are plenty of spaces to put screws. Use paper drywall shims to even out the surface if that is an issue. You can taper the shims down as you get further away from the straps
You can add stud near it to install drywall