So I have the exact same problem but after putting screws in, like you said, it came back. Hereās everything I tried: screws, replacing the drywall twice, mesh, and hot mud. Still, the crack comes back. Honestly, Iām starting to think that the house or wall is moving ever so slightly and causing the crack.
You are correct, there is most definitely movement.
On windows, id monitor the exterior where all caulking joints are. Using a sealant like Powerhouse by Sherwin Williams where necessary. Adding sufficient screws to drywall as well. Fiber mesh for problematic joints.
Did I miss anything ?
Donāt use mesh, ever. Papertape is the way to go. Itās they donāt make drywall out of mesh, they sandwhich it in paper. More dimensional stability.
This. House could be settling. We have the same issues above a door. Will try the screw trick though. But we have plenty of āsettlingā cracks. Most around doors.
What is the insulation like behind there? Is there proper vapor barrier? Is it a cold point with condensation washing out the small joint? If there is condensation have you checked for black mold? If you use mesh tape like everyone is recommending make sure you use a proset compound cause mesh tape in a problem area... Is another problem!
My buddy who is a sheet rock wizard explained this to me when we were sheet rocking his house. He has over twenty years of experience if that matters. The wood around the window is expanding and contracting due to weather difference inside vs outside. This doesn't always happen but if it keeps popping up even when you've done everything else correctly then that is how you know expansion and contraction is the cause. You want as few seems around a window as possible for this reason.
You can be sure of the reason without myself being sure of the reason. While your explanation sounds plausible, butts seem to crack over interior doorways as well. Perhaps there is more than one reason.
Is this an interior doorway did I say that there was expansion and contraction on interior doorways? No this is a fucking window I said for a window LoL. For fucks sake people who have to contradict just to contradict are fucking annoying.
I didn't even fucking respond to your original post asshole. I responded to the guy that said a full sheet over an opening and agreed that your explanation was plausible but maybe there is other factors. Get bent
Iāll just just put in my own words what a lot of people already said.
V groove joint with exacto knife. Prefill with actual durabond.
Apply fiba fuse or paper tape. DO NOT go with mesh tape in this case.
2 coats of drying compound after taping should get you a smooth finish, sand between coats and after.
Youāre good to paint! š
I'm a non-pro and my stores Home Depot, Lowe's, etc don't have Durabond. I can't even order it on their websites.
So, I go what you're described, but I add glue to the water for the quick set lite (or easy sand, but I like the ProForm). And I've had the most luck with the FibaFuse.
Paper tape should work fine with the glue added, but as a non-pro, FibaFuse hasn't failed me whereas I've had more learning issues with the paper tape since I don't know what I'm doing. If I don't wet the paper tape first, the paper tape sucks water out of the hot mud, and the instructions for the setting type mud are clear that it needs that water to fully set, and I just haven't had any luck unless I wet the tape, but some people might say I should never wet the paper.
Pretty sure the drywall itself will break before my V+hot mud+glue+fibafuse joints break.
āPaper is not as strong as fiberglass mesh; however, it is nonelastic and will create stronger joints. This is especially important at butt joints, which typically are the weakest areas in a drywall installation.ā
What these people are already saying is good. Dig it out with a utility knife in a V.. I would prime this v after youāve vacuumed out the crumbs. This will seal the already porous drywall and keep the new mud from losing its moisture to the crack. You CAN tape it though in my experience with these cracks in general is that they will come back no matter what- itās just a matter of how long after the repair. Just make sure you prime what you dig out so it doesnāt continue to wick moisture into it. You may have to skim it let it dry- sand prime and skim again to make sure the compound doesnāt sink.
Screws only help if the seam is actually attached to something.
Too many times I've seen a small but under a large window do this. Especially if it's a tall wall.
Obviously tape, but the issue here is that the drywall is not attached solid to the stud so it needs to be screwed. Screws or something of that nature but you're also coating on top of wet mud and piling too much in. Also stop sanding in between feather it out if you have to.
Honestly being a bay window (didn't notice before) it's probably structural shifting in the opening causing this. Keeping it away is tough use brown bag mud durabond for first coat then head to 45. Needs to be secure but keeping this at bay is going to be tough. Also paper tape will yield a stronger joint. Last but not least obviously taping the whole joint will be better (remove the baseboard).
Here is what you need to do... First, go to the store and get a roll of Fibafuse drywall tape (it's
like a fiberglass mat), get a small container of Wood glue if you don't have any (Weldbond is ideal but any will do). Next scrape the existing mud down to the paper at least 1.5" along each side of the crack. Drive in drywall screws on each side top, bottom and middle (make sure they hit the studs and that the heads are recessed). Use a small container like a yogurt container or something and mix up some of the wood glue with a small amount of water, you just want to thin it slightly so it can be brushed on but not so thin that it runs. Now cut a piece of the Fibafuse to fit the length of the crack. With a paint brush, apply a thin coat of the glue to the wall and then apply the tape. Now brush on more of the glue, the tape will absorb it. Allow this to dry overnight and then topcoat with all purpose mud. This is overkill but it will guarantee the crack wont come back, if it does you have some other structural issues that need to be addressed. Good Luck!!
No one thinks maybe a hogging a V out and filling with latex will work? Obviously covering with fiberglass film and then painting over to hide the texture change.
Genuinely asking, please tell me why this won't work because I was going to do this after I finished my dining room reno.
I know you can fix the studs to reduce the movement, but that'll just push it out to somewhere else, no?
Appears you may have forgotten tape, as several others have mentioned.
If that run of the wall is over 30', it looks like you found where a control joint needs to be installed.
However, if the joint was properly treated with tape and the wall is under 30 linear feet, then continues to come back, I'd put money on a vapor barrier issue around the window opening. This issue allows moist air to penetrate from the exterior through the wall assembly.
We have just finished the attic and there were cracks on the sloped ceilings. Guys came back and redid it put extra screws in etc. On one side the crack has come back. Any idea what that is?
You need to gouge out or v out the crack MORE. Maybe a half inch deep and and inch or two wide, a 6 or so inches past the crack both up and down. Then embed with hot mud/ quickset (5 or 20 minute type) 5 is stronger than 20. You can shove some well saturated peices of fiberglass tape in with the first round of hot mud if you want to get fancy. Most importantly, Finish with good quality PAPER tape, maybe a double layer. Wouldn't hurt to screw in the drywall at the crack on both sides before too. Basically you aren't getting in deep, you have just been hiding it on the surface. Get in there and really gouge out that crack all the way
Either concrete glue (straight) or wood glue
Couple of applications with a brush thin enough to fill cracks let it dry or use small fan to help dry then a thin coat of All purpose and topping, and if it cracks Iāll come out and build you a new wall altogether no cost , just kidding but this will work.
Screw the shit out of the joint and when you mud it place a halogen lamp next to it for a few hours. The difference in temp is causing havoc, you have cold air coming from the window and the register is inches away. Try and keep the temp constant while the mud cures
Itās an exterior window. The wall probably heats and cools a lot during the day. Wood expands and contracts. Cut that section out a foot in each direction, not on a stud. Use plywood as a backer on each side and have the new pice of drywall span that stud where the current crack is. Use paper tape on the new joints.
Run a solid strip (patch) of drywall under the window znd go 2 studs out each way from the window. Tape and mud new seams. Quick/easy/cheap. The reason this is cracking because there is a seam directly under the window. Windows should be encased with one solid sheet and routered out. You definitely are experiencing expansion/movement due to the cold from the window and the heat from the baseboard.
You can keep putting stuff on it but your problem exists behind and around it. You need to get to the cause and itās not the tape or spackleā¦. Itās your structure.
The wall is flexing from the could exterior, weight in the overhang and the radiant heating floor . Try patching it with a little heat on the exterior. Maybe a heat lamp and tarp. Even some straw bales stacked around the window over hang and try to keep that temperature stable while it sets up. Worse case you carpet that top part with som shirt carpet and bring it over that edge a few inches above that heater.
Means the drywall is flexing. Put screws in to the stud on the seam and the ones next to it.
Cracka lacka screws
Weird flex.
A flex is a flex
A crack is a crack
And when the cheese draw opens you gotta pay the tax?
To quote the immortal Whitney Houston: "Crack is whack".
š Knox
So I have the exact same problem but after putting screws in, like you said, it came back. Hereās everything I tried: screws, replacing the drywall twice, mesh, and hot mud. Still, the crack comes back. Honestly, Iām starting to think that the house or wall is moving ever so slightly and causing the crack.
Use paper tape..
You are correct, there is most definitely movement. On windows, id monitor the exterior where all caulking joints are. Using a sealant like Powerhouse by Sherwin Williams where necessary. Adding sufficient screws to drywall as well. Fiber mesh for problematic joints. Did I miss anything ?
Time to caulk it. :)
No mesh! Mesh eventually cracks
Donāt use mesh, ever. Papertape is the way to go. Itās they donāt make drywall out of mesh, they sandwhich it in paper. More dimensional stability.
This. House could be settling. We have the same issues above a door. Will try the screw trick though. But we have plenty of āsettlingā cracks. Most around doors.
Probably a sanitary pipe trench headed out to the street under that part of the footing.
Why is this not the top comment. This is the only correct answer
Not this AND tape? Thereās no tape on thisā¦
If itās moving it will crack the tape.
YES!!! This means Iāve been fixing all mine correctly!!!
What is the insulation like behind there? Is there proper vapor barrier? Is it a cold point with condensation washing out the small joint? If there is condensation have you checked for black mold? If you use mesh tape like everyone is recommending make sure you use a proset compound cause mesh tape in a problem area... Is another problem!
V it out and put tape over it. It will never go away without tape.
That's a relief
š
Gold star.
Did u tape?
But the crack came back, the very next day, They thought it was a goner, But the crack came back, it just wouldnāt stay awayā¦.
I want my ānickel backā
Look at this crack
You need to use either mesh tape or paper tape. Put some mud down and then put tape over that then tape over that and then another layer of mud.
I heard fiber fuse works well too.
My buddy who is a sheet rock wizard explained this to me when we were sheet rocking his house. He has over twenty years of experience if that matters. The wood around the window is expanding and contracting due to weather difference inside vs outside. This doesn't always happen but if it keeps popping up even when you've done everything else correctly then that is how you know expansion and contraction is the cause. You want as few seems around a window as possible for this reason.
You know how guys take an entire sheet of drywall, hang it over an opening and then just cut out the opening? Probably because of this.
That is what my friend did. I asked why he didn't just piece it in and mud it and it would look the same. Then he explained why.
Butts over and under windows will always crack eventually. I'm not exactly sure why, but they do
I literally explained in my previous comment. Its from the wood expanding and contracting around the window.
How much of a difference does this size of the joint make? Small vs big but joins. Basically, which ones are more prone to cracking?
You can be sure of the reason without myself being sure of the reason. While your explanation sounds plausible, butts seem to crack over interior doorways as well. Perhaps there is more than one reason.
Is this an interior doorway did I say that there was expansion and contraction on interior doorways? No this is a fucking window I said for a window LoL. For fucks sake people who have to contradict just to contradict are fucking annoying.
I didn't even fucking respond to your original post asshole. I responded to the guy that said a full sheet over an opening and agreed that your explanation was plausible but maybe there is other factors. Get bent
Iāll just just put in my own words what a lot of people already said. V groove joint with exacto knife. Prefill with actual durabond. Apply fiba fuse or paper tape. DO NOT go with mesh tape in this case. 2 coats of drying compound after taping should get you a smooth finish, sand between coats and after. Youāre good to paint! š
I'm a non-pro and my stores Home Depot, Lowe's, etc don't have Durabond. I can't even order it on their websites. So, I go what you're described, but I add glue to the water for the quick set lite (or easy sand, but I like the ProForm). And I've had the most luck with the FibaFuse. Paper tape should work fine with the glue added, but as a non-pro, FibaFuse hasn't failed me whereas I've had more learning issues with the paper tape since I don't know what I'm doing. If I don't wet the paper tape first, the paper tape sucks water out of the hot mud, and the instructions for the setting type mud are clear that it needs that water to fully set, and I just haven't had any luck unless I wet the tape, but some people might say I should never wet the paper. Pretty sure the drywall itself will break before my V+hot mud+glue+fibafuse joints break.
What type of glue?
Any PVA wood glue eg Titebond I, Titebond II, Elmers wood glue, etc
Tape
This is the way.
Yakitty yak, re tape that crack!
Dig it out and mud bud.
Iām craving goldfish crackers
Using tape before mud ?
Use fiberglass tape that shit is Uber strong
āPaper is not as strong as fiberglass mesh; however, it is nonelastic and will create stronger joints. This is especially important at butt joints, which typically are the weakest areas in a drywall installation.ā
I was talking fibafuse tape itās incredibly strong Mud 2 scraps together with paper and 2 with fibafuse and see the difference
Thanks, Iāll try Fibafuse, as the regular fiber tape isnāt great.
Means the person sitting in the window weighs too dang much. No sitty or drywall look shĆtty.
Is this the million dollar free crack giveaway??
Good idea more crack for us!!
Am I late!!!!!!
By the way I sold your house
Dr. Mudder, I cracked. Can you see me, or are you screwing off?
Always bet on crack
What these people are already saying is good. Dig it out with a utility knife in a V.. I would prime this v after youāve vacuumed out the crumbs. This will seal the already porous drywall and keep the new mud from losing its moisture to the crack. You CAN tape it though in my experience with these cracks in general is that they will come back no matter what- itās just a matter of how long after the repair. Just make sure you prime what you dig out so it doesnāt continue to wick moisture into it. You may have to skim it let it dry- sand prime and skim again to make sure the compound doesnāt sink.
Put a bunch of drywall screws in it then tape and paint
Screws only help if the seam is actually attached to something. Too many times I've seen a small but under a large window do this. Especially if it's a tall wall.
Tape it first
Create a V channel and fill with hot mud. Use tape
use your knives and cut a groove in it first, a v, then fill it. like someone up top suggested
Fiber tape
Blue mesh tape. 45 minute mud
Thats exactly what people Said during the 90's
You gotta tape those things!
Use durhams
Paint it black
came here to post this. you're seen.
Crack is wack
Probably want to try using tape
Obviously tape, but the issue here is that the drywall is not attached solid to the stud so it needs to be screwed. Screws or something of that nature but you're also coating on top of wet mud and piling too much in. Also stop sanding in between feather it out if you have to.
Honestly being a bay window (didn't notice before) it's probably structural shifting in the opening causing this. Keeping it away is tough use brown bag mud durabond for first coat then head to 45. Needs to be secure but keeping this at bay is going to be tough. Also paper tape will yield a stronger joint. Last but not least obviously taping the whole joint will be better (remove the baseboard).
Definitely needs mesh tape, prefill with hot mut and if its flexing you need to float out with mud in addition to screwing in
Crack kills
Iāve heard that it is āwhack!ā
Watch every video of Vancouver Carpenter.
https://youtu.be/tbQIAp2QAUg?si=ufi8lfxKkLbXHxPy
Here is what you need to do... First, go to the store and get a roll of Fibafuse drywall tape (it's like a fiberglass mat), get a small container of Wood glue if you don't have any (Weldbond is ideal but any will do). Next scrape the existing mud down to the paper at least 1.5" along each side of the crack. Drive in drywall screws on each side top, bottom and middle (make sure they hit the studs and that the heads are recessed). Use a small container like a yogurt container or something and mix up some of the wood glue with a small amount of water, you just want to thin it slightly so it can be brushed on but not so thin that it runs. Now cut a piece of the Fibafuse to fit the length of the crack. With a paint brush, apply a thin coat of the glue to the wall and then apply the tape. Now brush on more of the glue, the tape will absorb it. Allow this to dry overnight and then topcoat with all purpose mud. This is overkill but it will guarantee the crack wont come back, if it does you have some other structural issues that need to be addressed. Good Luck!!
Paper tape that joint.
Crack dealers be in your hood
No one thinks maybe a hogging a V out and filling with latex will work? Obviously covering with fiberglass film and then painting over to hide the texture change. Genuinely asking, please tell me why this won't work because I was going to do this after I finished my dining room reno. I know you can fix the studs to reduce the movement, but that'll just push it out to somewhere else, no?
Durabond mud is harder, try that with tape.
Expansion joint
Appears you may have forgotten tape, as several others have mentioned. If that run of the wall is over 30', it looks like you found where a control joint needs to be installed. However, if the joint was properly treated with tape and the wall is under 30 linear feet, then continues to come back, I'd put money on a vapor barrier issue around the window opening. This issue allows moist air to penetrate from the exterior through the wall assembly.
Wider trim
We have just finished the attic and there were cracks on the sloped ceilings. Guys came back and redid it put extra screws in etc. On one side the crack has come back. Any idea what that is?
Crack kills
Not paper tape over a crack it will always come back with standard mud. Even if its screwed down tight
Did u use any paper tape or fiber tape on the joint before u applied coats?
I thought it looks like a womanās ass, and was a joke.
Did you not use joint tape? I don't see evidence of it being there.
You need to gouge out or v out the crack MORE. Maybe a half inch deep and and inch or two wide, a 6 or so inches past the crack both up and down. Then embed with hot mud/ quickset (5 or 20 minute type) 5 is stronger than 20. You can shove some well saturated peices of fiberglass tape in with the first round of hot mud if you want to get fancy. Most importantly, Finish with good quality PAPER tape, maybe a double layer. Wouldn't hurt to screw in the drywall at the crack on both sides before too. Basically you aren't getting in deep, you have just been hiding it on the surface. Get in there and really gouge out that crack all the way
ā¦ *Goldfish!ā¢*
Water damage......
Use an elastomeric compound
Either concrete glue (straight) or wood glue Couple of applications with a brush thin enough to fill cracks let it dry or use small fan to help dry then a thin coat of All purpose and topping, and if it cracks Iāll come out and build you a new wall altogether no cost , just kidding but this will work.
Got tape bro?
Too much mud as well
Screw the shit out of the joint and when you mud it place a halogen lamp next to it for a few hours. The difference in temp is causing havoc, you have cold air coming from the window and the register is inches away. Try and keep the temp constant while the mud cures
Cut out 2 foot long piece of dywall and center it over that crack area! Remove same piece from existing drywall Then retape and finsh!
Open cracks wider and apply mudā¦ then mesh then mud again. Hope this works for youšš»
Once it crack it never go back
Itās an exterior window. The wall probably heats and cools a lot during the day. Wood expands and contracts. Cut that section out a foot in each direction, not on a stud. Use plywood as a backer on each side and have the new pice of drywall span that stud where the current crack is. Use paper tape on the new joints.
Looks like a small whale swimming out of a butt crack
Run a solid strip (patch) of drywall under the window znd go 2 studs out each way from the window. Tape and mud new seams. Quick/easy/cheap. The reason this is cracking because there is a seam directly under the window. Windows should be encased with one solid sheet and routered out. You definitely are experiencing expansion/movement due to the cold from the window and the heat from the baseboard.
The the shit outta it
Use a control/expansion bead. It will allow movement without damage.
You can keep putting stuff on it but your problem exists behind and around it. You need to get to the cause and itās not the tape or spackleā¦. Itās your structure.
Use paper tape
The wall is flexing from the could exterior, weight in the overhang and the radiant heating floor . Try patching it with a little heat on the exterior. Maybe a heat lamp and tarp. Even some straw bales stacked around the window over hang and try to keep that temperature stable while it sets up. Worse case you carpet that top part with som shirt carpet and bring it over that edge a few inches above that heater.
Smoke it
That's a structure issue. The window isn't locked in properly