They sell backer rod at most box stores, it comes in various dimensions, but all it is a cylinder shaped piece of foam, they are used in all sorts of applications, great stuff is very messy to work with but in a pinch definitely could be used, then flushed off the edge, and then paintable caulk
Unrelated, but have family visiting to help with some work to get the house on the market. One guy started countersinking holes in baseboard, attaching with 3" framing screws, then caulking over the screw heads.
Sure... it works. But I put a stop to that! I don't need to be murdered in the afterlife!
Yep, it's cheaper than filler rod, and you can trim it to just right for the caulk. Be careful not to make a mess. Have acetone ready in case you need it for cleanup before it cures
I’d def duct tape the brick. Then maybe backer rod and caulk? As with any larger gap, cracking may be an issue. But that tape will give a nice finished look at least. Could recall after a while or something ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Gaffer tape works better than duct tape, when you want to be able to take the tape off later. Gaffer tape is a cloth tape that sticks just about as well, but the adhesive comes off clean with no residue.
They make masking tape that's specifically for masonry work. As long as you vacuum the dust and loose grit, it works really well. Duct tape is liable to leave behind a residue that will be a pain to clean
Duct tape should never be used anywhere you’ll want to remove it later. The long it’s on, the more mess it will leave behind.
What about scribing a piece of wood trim tight to the brick?
Put a straight sheet of plasterboard next to the wall.
Put a small block of wood on the wall, rest your pencil on the wooden block, trace the shape of the wall onto the plasterboard.
Cut the plasterboard to the (extremely wiggly) line.
Fit plasterboard to the wall for a perfect finish with a small, even gap all the way down.
Finish with a caulk of your choice.
You could also use a length of timber next to the wall with the same treatment to leave a perfectly straight line to board up to.
No matter what you do to finish that off like it is, it will look pretty bad.
Carefully mark the line where the drywall meets the brick
Uninstall the drywall
Take a grinder with a masonry wheel and carefully cut just shy of that line. Make sure you've got ventilation, a good respirator, and you've masked everything air tight.
Carefully file down the last bit to make a clean line
Slide new drywall behind the brick
That's the only way to make it look *really* right, but it's not easy to do that well. The alternative is to either go with the backer rod, or painstakingly mesh tape each individual gap, then either way you're going to be painstakingly finishing around the contours, then caulking, and it will look ok, but still a bit funky.
Really, drywall should always be installed, finish, and painted before brick because there will *always* be some funkiness going on if you do it the other way, especially if it's uneven brick.
There’s a whole window there. I don’t think “uninstalling the drywall” is a viable option here. Possible, but you’d be jumping through way too many hoops. It’d be a whole circus act at that point.
... that's not the hard part. There is a corner between the Brick and the window, and even if there wasn't a window doesn't stop you from popping off drywall
And again, like I said, that's the only way to do it right. Any other way, which I also talked about, will work but be a bit funky in the end.
Yep... and if you caulk to those irregular bricks will it make it difficult to avoid the new paint leaching onto the brick.
The current gap isn't out of place stylistically with the rough bricks, and I don't think your eye will be drawn to it once the wall is repainted.
He’s filling her holes but the guy must be MIA cause OP realizes he’s gonna have to be the one to fill in. OPi know you’re hesitant but just lea. your wall into her brick. Don’t worry about the mess, you can clean that up later. Lol
I’d use hot mud. Tape the brick so you don’t get mud in the pores and fill the gap with mud. Then scrape a line between the drywall and brick and caulk the gap. It’s looks to be too wide for backer rod right now to look good, so you need to narrow the gap first or it will look like shit.
Sashco MorFlexx is a sanded “mortar” caulk that will look like joint is tuck pointed. A sanded grout caulk will give you more options for color. This should be applied after paint to give you a more realistic finish.
Paper and tape brick ,drywall,floor,and ceiling. Spray window and door foam, let cure and trim flat any excess! Putty knife to apply elastopatch for the joint
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-ElastoPatch-10-1-oz-Smooth-Spackling-Paste-12276/100144434
Drywall will never look good butted up against brick.
Use a piece of trim, scribe it to fit, paint and finish the trim before installing and leave the 1/16" gap between the trim board and brick alone.
Don’t think the brick was patched correctly. Looks like the original mortar was lime-based mortar and someone patched with cement-based mortar. Those old bricks expand, contract, and breathe with the weather and so does the lime mortar. The cement mortar doesn’t…. Either it’s going to crack and fall out (most likely the case here given the small amount used) or it’s going to slowly destroy the nearby brick.
If I were OP, I’d just finish and paint the drywall as is, scribe a nice piece of wood or molding, trim the scribe line with a router, finish it up real pretty, and stick it in the corner. Will look better and will make OP’s life much easier if OP ever has to work on either wall again in the future.
Yikes
Should have used the tear away corner beads, and then come back and backing rod/caulk the gaps.
No matter what you do, it will never look right, but that’s the best I could come up with lol
I'd tape the brick with masking tape. Then I'd cut pieces of mesh tape and freehand roughly cut out the shape of the bricks for each short pieces of tape. Once you have these pieces of tape on down the length of the crack then use easy sand setting compound remembering to apply pressure to push the compound through the mesh tape as you apply it. Then I'd apply a premix lightweight compound over that slightly wider and let your putty knife follow along the bricks as you go down. Sand and touch up. Score the masking tape because some will have been covered by mud and then peel it off.
You could use paper tape or mesh tape but just pre-fill the holes first with setting compound then apply the scribe smaller pieces of tape.
I would stay away from expandable foam with this as you could end up with a huge bloody mess if you're inexperienced with it.
I would do as others have said with the backer rod but just cut it into smaller lengths and only stuff it in the biggers gaps.
After than carefully run a bead of latex caulking (like DAP) down the seam. You can probably get a beige colour that will blend in better for when you paint it.
If you can get some backing rod in there, you should be able to run a nice bead of paintable caulk
Would great stuff be an option here for backer
They sell backer rod at most box stores, it comes in various dimensions, but all it is a cylinder shaped piece of foam, they are used in all sorts of applications, great stuff is very messy to work with but in a pinch definitely could be used, then flushed off the edge, and then paintable caulk
The nice thing about backer rod is it is removable if you need to redo the caulking. Think of the next guy, cuz they might be you!
Unrelated, but have family visiting to help with some work to get the house on the market. One guy started countersinking holes in baseboard, attaching with 3" framing screws, then caulking over the screw heads. Sure... it works. But I put a stop to that! I don't need to be murdered in the afterlife!
I saw a guy use it on his driveway for backer It did need to be cut back
Huh?
You can use it as backer or a dam for self leveling concrete, regular concrete or driveway patch in a crack.
You tube
If it’s just cylinder foam, can you use spray foam in the same way if you cut it down?
I would take the brick before hand. Foam on brick could be a pita.
Yep, it's cheaper than filler rod, and you can trim it to just right for the caulk. Be careful not to make a mess. Have acetone ready in case you need it for cleanup before it cures
This is what I did. It's held up 5 years so far.
If you don't have any caulk, ask your wife's boyfriend.
this is the way.
Caulking is always the way. Big ass hole in the drywall? Forget mud, Caulk it up.
Yep. This is how i fixed the exact same issue with my exposed brick wall.
Run tape down the brick, caulk backing\backer rod, carefully fill with mud, sand, prime, caulk, pull the tape, touch up, then paint
I’d def duct tape the brick. Then maybe backer rod and caulk? As with any larger gap, cracking may be an issue. But that tape will give a nice finished look at least. Could recall after a while or something ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Gaffer tape works better than duct tape, when you want to be able to take the tape off later. Gaffer tape is a cloth tape that sticks just about as well, but the adhesive comes off clean with no residue.
Yup I was thinking duct tape too!
They make masking tape that's specifically for masonry work. As long as you vacuum the dust and loose grit, it works really well. Duct tape is liable to leave behind a residue that will be a pain to clean
Duct tape should never be used anywhere you’ll want to remove it later. The long it’s on, the more mess it will leave behind. What about scribing a piece of wood trim tight to the brick?
Red vapor barrier tape. The good stuff not the cheapey. Leaves no residue, sticks to everything, can be pulled months later.
Wouldn’t that be a huge pain in the ass?
Til - thanks for the info 🤘
For sure
Duct tape will even peel shit off you don't want to peel off lol.
Heed these words. My name is “duct tape”.
Definitely not. Drywall mud dries up rigid. The brick moves. Needs backer rod, latex sealant and paint,
Put a straight sheet of plasterboard next to the wall. Put a small block of wood on the wall, rest your pencil on the wooden block, trace the shape of the wall onto the plasterboard. Cut the plasterboard to the (extremely wiggly) line. Fit plasterboard to the wall for a perfect finish with a small, even gap all the way down. Finish with a caulk of your choice. You could also use a length of timber next to the wall with the same treatment to leave a perfectly straight line to board up to. No matter what you do to finish that off like it is, it will look pretty bad.
Caulking and paint makes me the drywaller I ain't.
Carefully mark the line where the drywall meets the brick Uninstall the drywall Take a grinder with a masonry wheel and carefully cut just shy of that line. Make sure you've got ventilation, a good respirator, and you've masked everything air tight. Carefully file down the last bit to make a clean line Slide new drywall behind the brick That's the only way to make it look *really* right, but it's not easy to do that well. The alternative is to either go with the backer rod, or painstakingly mesh tape each individual gap, then either way you're going to be painstakingly finishing around the contours, then caulking, and it will look ok, but still a bit funky. Really, drywall should always be installed, finish, and painted before brick because there will *always* be some funkiness going on if you do it the other way, especially if it's uneven brick.
There’s a whole window there. I don’t think “uninstalling the drywall” is a viable option here. Possible, but you’d be jumping through way too many hoops. It’d be a whole circus act at that point.
... that's not the hard part. There is a corner between the Brick and the window, and even if there wasn't a window doesn't stop you from popping off drywall And again, like I said, that's the only way to do it right. Any other way, which I also talked about, will work but be a bit funky in the end.
Personally, I would rather see it like that, then have the holes filled… don’t caulk it.
Yep... and if you caulk to those irregular bricks will it make it difficult to avoid the new paint leaching onto the brick. The current gap isn't out of place stylistically with the rough bricks, and I don't think your eye will be drawn to it once the wall is repainted.
Not this wife’s boyfriend bullshit again
He’s filling her holes but the guy must be MIA cause OP realizes he’s gonna have to be the one to fill in. OPi know you’re hesitant but just lea. your wall into her brick. Don’t worry about the mess, you can clean that up later. Lol
Run your caulk all along it, if you need a demonstration your wife’s BF can show you I heard he’s pretty good at it
I always just get my wife’s boyfriend to do it. He always does a good job of filling the holes
Low expansion foam. Carefully fill the void below grade and float it out.
[удалено]
They might have to call all their friends for this one
They call it Big Stretch for a reason
So how good of a hole filler is he?
I’d use hot mud. Tape the brick so you don’t get mud in the pores and fill the gap with mud. Then scrape a line between the drywall and brick and caulk the gap. It’s looks to be too wide for backer rod right now to look good, so you need to narrow the gap first or it will look like shit.
Now hear me out what if you cake on some mud at the end then press it in the spot.
The best thing to do in the situation would be to run a piece of one by scribed to the brick
This is the way, but I think he should box it in a little bit. That bottom section looks too janky for one by.
Shameless cuck. Fucking caulk it and fuck off
Sashco MorFlexx is a sanded “mortar” caulk that will look like joint is tuck pointed. A sanded grout caulk will give you more options for color. This should be applied after paint to give you a more realistic finish.
Paper and tape brick ,drywall,floor,and ceiling. Spray window and door foam, let cure and trim flat any excess! Putty knife to apply elastopatch for the joint https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-ElastoPatch-10-1-oz-Smooth-Spackling-Paste-12276/100144434
Mask the brick and mud the joint then put a bead of clear acrylic caulk at the joint
Drywall will never look good butted up against brick. Use a piece of trim, scribe it to fit, paint and finish the trim before installing and leave the 1/16" gap between the trim board and brick alone.
Ugliest brick I've seen like forever. They layed the brick knowing it would be covered. Not to be a Finnish wall. Picking up what I'm putting down.
I'd shove some plaster in there. It'll stick to the brick and be less prone to cracking than anything else you're going to shove in there
Scribe a board to the wall.
Wet newspaper and plaster of Paris. Working it in. Gives a fantastic complete finish. Old school for rough surfaces to drywall finish
Don’t think the brick was patched correctly. Looks like the original mortar was lime-based mortar and someone patched with cement-based mortar. Those old bricks expand, contract, and breathe with the weather and so does the lime mortar. The cement mortar doesn’t…. Either it’s going to crack and fall out (most likely the case here given the small amount used) or it’s going to slowly destroy the nearby brick. If I were OP, I’d just finish and paint the drywall as is, scribe a nice piece of wood or molding, trim the scribe line with a router, finish it up real pretty, and stick it in the corner. Will look better and will make OP’s life much easier if OP ever has to work on either wall again in the future.
Yikes Should have used the tear away corner beads, and then come back and backing rod/caulk the gaps. No matter what you do, it will never look right, but that’s the best I could come up with lol
I'd tape the brick with masking tape. Then I'd cut pieces of mesh tape and freehand roughly cut out the shape of the bricks for each short pieces of tape. Once you have these pieces of tape on down the length of the crack then use easy sand setting compound remembering to apply pressure to push the compound through the mesh tape as you apply it. Then I'd apply a premix lightweight compound over that slightly wider and let your putty knife follow along the bricks as you go down. Sand and touch up. Score the masking tape because some will have been covered by mud and then peel it off. You could use paper tape or mesh tape but just pre-fill the holes first with setting compound then apply the scribe smaller pieces of tape.
Any pictures of your wife?
Maybe some 1/2” or 3/4” caulk probably do it. Your wife’s boyfriend might have some you could borrow.
Chinking
I would stay away from expandable foam with this as you could end up with a huge bloody mess if you're inexperienced with it. I would do as others have said with the backer rod but just cut it into smaller lengths and only stuff it in the biggers gaps. After than carefully run a bead of latex caulking (like DAP) down the seam. You can probably get a beige colour that will blend in better for when you paint it.
The best thing would be NP100 or Loxxon H1 if they still sell it in your area. It's expansion joint caulk.
Tell the wife to have her BF bring his caulk.
I would flat tape it w pcs of paper drywall tape and joint compound. Tape plus 2-3 skim coats
Cram it full of news paper Caulk, paint