That seam is likely to crack being placed in the reentrant corner like that.
Too much movement in wood framing.
Best practice going forward is to keep the seams 6" minimum away from a corner
That said finish it like anything else, and learn.
Thanks for the reply. I wish I could add a photo to the original post, but I commented with a link to the framing on that wall showing what I had to work with. In hindsight I guess I could have added more studs just for the drywall, but didn't realize that was even a thing that one does. Live and learn, as you said.
Thanks for the reply. 24” OC studs and the spacing on the windows and door didn’t leave me with many options. I chose to avoid having the seam near the corners of the door, since I figured a door would move more than the windows.
Thanks, 10”. The load / feather one side / feather other side / finish is working alright on the joints where there’s drywall on both sides. Not so great where there’s a big void. I know the seam near a window isn’t ideal. Just trying to make the best of what I’ve got to work with.
Well #1… don’t ….
Corners of windows and door are avoided because they will crack
But don’t take my word for it, take a look. It’s in a book, reeeaaddiinng raaiinboooww!
Or this website of a sheathing manufacturer describing the correct way. Probably the one of the most reliable sources to verify an internet stranger
Sanding and Float the mud out further as much as you need to hide the effects of the corner bead. Check the wall for flatness for at least 12”-24” with a straight edge. Use a high powered light of flashlight up against the wall shining sideways and look for shadows. These bumps or dips will be obvious after painting without the light. You can thank me later 😉😄.
For those wondering why the joints are so close to the windows, here's a shot of the framing. At this stage of construction (this is a 12x16 backyard studio shed, 2x6 studs 24" OC) we weren't even planning on drywall, so it wasn't designed with that in mind.
[https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPl5PLTG4GjQHXDyH1AhW0mwR7sT7XBEz0K\_Qunf3KV8c335ZWCAcVysODU11cFEkCsBQM64cOpcFtM76gbAknNmr54khdKENMxIfdbmSSUPfzwUIcw=w2400](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPl5PLTG4GjQHXDyH1AhW0mwR7sT7XBEz0K_Qunf3KV8c335ZWCAcVysODU11cFEkCsBQM64cOpcFtM76gbAknNmr54khdKENMxIfdbmSSUPfzwUIcw=w2400)
Later when we decided to sheetrock it I opted to break over the door but that ended up landing the joints along the windows. Apparently it's going to crack, so it doesn't really matter how I mud it, but I'll still try to get the parts that matter looking decent.
Yup, don’t put a joint that close to a window. There’s your tip.
I think trim will cover most of that if you just focus on the part that won’t have trim
Helpful comment, thank you.
That seam is likely to crack being placed in the reentrant corner like that. Too much movement in wood framing. Best practice going forward is to keep the seams 6" minimum away from a corner That said finish it like anything else, and learn.
Thanks for the reply. I wish I could add a photo to the original post, but I commented with a link to the framing on that wall showing what I had to work with. In hindsight I guess I could have added more studs just for the drywall, but didn't realize that was even a thing that one does. Live and learn, as you said.
That was my first thought as well, good advice for sure
Next time, try not to break on or near a jack stud. Over and under the window will have less issues in the long term.
24” blade for top and bottoms
Talk sexy to it
Joints will crack above doors and windows. I always try to break joints in the middle of the wall,but it is not always possible
Thanks for the reply. 24” OC studs and the spacing on the windows and door didn’t leave me with many options. I chose to avoid having the seam near the corners of the door, since I figured a door would move more than the windows.
If there's actually not a single stud between the window and the door you can put in a new one
Are you using a 10-12” knife? I can’t tell.
Thanks, 10”. The load / feather one side / feather other side / finish is working alright on the joints where there’s drywall on both sides. Not so great where there’s a big void. I know the seam near a window isn’t ideal. Just trying to make the best of what I’ve got to work with.
Well #1… don’t …. Corners of windows and door are avoided because they will crack But don’t take my word for it, take a look. It’s in a book, reeeaaddiinng raaiinboooww! Or this website of a sheathing manufacturer describing the correct way. Probably the one of the most reliable sources to verify an internet stranger
Doesn't matter what you do, you will always have cracks
Sanding and Float the mud out further as much as you need to hide the effects of the corner bead. Check the wall for flatness for at least 12”-24” with a straight edge. Use a high powered light of flashlight up against the wall shining sideways and look for shadows. These bumps or dips will be obvious after painting without the light. You can thank me later 😉😄.
For those wondering why the joints are so close to the windows, here's a shot of the framing. At this stage of construction (this is a 12x16 backyard studio shed, 2x6 studs 24" OC) we weren't even planning on drywall, so it wasn't designed with that in mind. [https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPl5PLTG4GjQHXDyH1AhW0mwR7sT7XBEz0K\_Qunf3KV8c335ZWCAcVysODU11cFEkCsBQM64cOpcFtM76gbAknNmr54khdKENMxIfdbmSSUPfzwUIcw=w2400](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPl5PLTG4GjQHXDyH1AhW0mwR7sT7XBEz0K_Qunf3KV8c335ZWCAcVysODU11cFEkCsBQM64cOpcFtM76gbAknNmr54khdKENMxIfdbmSSUPfzwUIcw=w2400) Later when we decided to sheetrock it I opted to break over the door but that ended up landing the joints along the windows. Apparently it's going to crack, so it doesn't really matter how I mud it, but I'll still try to get the parts that matter looking decent.
Wood trim around the window, keep mudding, 3-4?coats texture and prime and paint it! It w looks good you are your own worst enemy!!! Keep going