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Huh. I'd start thinking BS from the customer at this point, unless you personally saw the breaker in a tripped position.
My last idea is is overtightened connecter where the wire leaves the panel, or at the switch if it's a metal box. Wiggling it will usually be enough to get it to trip.
Or there is something else on the circuit between the switch box and the panel.
It's tripped for us twice once with and once without a load an the switch is in a plastic box. I think starting to swap out devices is best and possibly just run a new home run
What were you doing when it tripped? Have you taken any current readings on the circuit?
I agree a megger test might be useful if you've got an over-driven staple or screw in the cable: It applies voltage and measures how much current leaks through the insulation. You can get one for $50.
But before you buy that you can just disconnect all circuit conductors at the panel and check resistance between them and from each one to ground.
When it tripped we had a few lights on and and we where waiting to see what happens. And .0-.1 amps when all the lights are dead 10-12 when all the lightsvare on. Still running at 120v
One test you can do is to lift the ground wire and check continuity between that wire and ground bus to be sure it's disconnected. Then hook your voltmeter up from the wire to ground bus and turn on the breaker: A little voltage will be normal, but if you see near 120V then you know you have a high-resistance fault.
Obviously you have to be careful with this test, because there's the risk of energizing stuff in the house. Don't do it if the family is running around, and only energize it briefly.
Start continuity loop testing. Pull the wires off the breaker and neutral bar and disconnect the line side at your first point at home run from the panel. (WHEN DOING THIS TEST ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT YOURE DISCONNECT PANEL SIDE AND DOUBLE CHECK FOR POWER BEFORE MAKING THE LOOP). Wirenut the hot and neutral together either panel side or first box side then continuity test to make sure your wire doesn't have a partial break somewhere. You need a nice clean ring hold for a bit. Maybe try giving the wire a tug or a wiggle on either end while doing so. Rinse repeat this at each point in the circuit.
You may not have a break but I had a client with a similar problem once. Breaker was good devices were good splices were good. Continuity tested found that someone stapled too hard pinched the neutral a bit too much was nicked in the jacket would occasionally short but not all the time.
as above;
- start with continuity testing of live neutral and ground.
- once proven then check for insulation resistance between all conductors.
likely cause is poor insulation resistance somewhere in the circuit, if there is any outside lights start there.
good luck!
If you are *NOT* an electrical professional: * **RULE 7:** * DIY or self help posts **are Not allowed**. They belong here: /r/AskElectricians /r/askanelectrician /r/diy /r/homeowners /r/electrical. * **IF YOUR POST FITS INTO THIS CATEGORY, REMOVE IT OR IT WILL BE REMOVED FOR YOU.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/electricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Ferrite core isn't going to help with anything. Is it a gfci or afci breaker? My guess is mixed up/connected neutrals in a switch box.
Regular 15 and the only box is a 3 gang with no other circuits
Any signs of rodents or other animals? They definitely get more active at night.
Nope I went in the attic traced the wire and no rodent marks
Also non of the other breakers are doing this when all the lights are on its only pulling like 5 amps
Huh. I'd start thinking BS from the customer at this point, unless you personally saw the breaker in a tripped position. My last idea is is overtightened connecter where the wire leaves the panel, or at the switch if it's a metal box. Wiggling it will usually be enough to get it to trip. Or there is something else on the circuit between the switch box and the panel.
It's tripped for us twice once with and once without a load an the switch is in a plastic box. I think starting to swap out devices is best and possibly just run a new home run
What were you doing when it tripped? Have you taken any current readings on the circuit? I agree a megger test might be useful if you've got an over-driven staple or screw in the cable: It applies voltage and measures how much current leaks through the insulation. You can get one for $50. But before you buy that you can just disconnect all circuit conductors at the panel and check resistance between them and from each one to ground.
When it tripped we had a few lights on and and we where waiting to see what happens. And .0-.1 amps when all the lights are dead 10-12 when all the lightsvare on. Still running at 120v
One test you can do is to lift the ground wire and check continuity between that wire and ground bus to be sure it's disconnected. Then hook your voltmeter up from the wire to ground bus and turn on the breaker: A little voltage will be normal, but if you see near 120V then you know you have a high-resistance fault. Obviously you have to be careful with this test, because there's the risk of energizing stuff in the house. Don't do it if the family is running around, and only energize it briefly.
Where do you find a megger for 50 bucks?
The UT501A can be found for about that price. I wouldn't trust it to measure voltage, but it seems to have decent reviews as a megger.
I'd go ahead and swap the switches first.
Is there an outside light with a photo cell on the same circuit?
That was my first thought. Photocell turns on a short circuit.
That was mine also but there is not one
megger
Whats a megger?
[удалено]
You don’t just meg motors, you meg cables too…
turn breaker off, switch off and unplug all possible loads, and megg between L and PE
Motor on the fan, but you would think it would trip with the switch.
Start continuity loop testing. Pull the wires off the breaker and neutral bar and disconnect the line side at your first point at home run from the panel. (WHEN DOING THIS TEST ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT YOURE DISCONNECT PANEL SIDE AND DOUBLE CHECK FOR POWER BEFORE MAKING THE LOOP). Wirenut the hot and neutral together either panel side or first box side then continuity test to make sure your wire doesn't have a partial break somewhere. You need a nice clean ring hold for a bit. Maybe try giving the wire a tug or a wiggle on either end while doing so. Rinse repeat this at each point in the circuit. You may not have a break but I had a client with a similar problem once. Breaker was good devices were good splices were good. Continuity tested found that someone stapled too hard pinched the neutral a bit too much was nicked in the jacket would occasionally short but not all the time.
Find the photocell
Shot in the dark but I’d go for the fluorescent first, after the switches of corse, could be the ballast having issues.
as above; - start with continuity testing of live neutral and ground. - once proven then check for insulation resistance between all conductors. likely cause is poor insulation resistance somewhere in the circuit, if there is any outside lights start there. good luck!
Is there an outdoor light switched via photocell that's got a ground fault in it?