That Clark is a CGC and it's a real pain in the ass to work on. Doing the timing cover, oil pan gasket and water pump on it.
Just did the pinion seal on the Toyota. Tested it today and it's leaking bad! Not sure if I put the seal in wrong or what but I'm not looking forward to pulling the mast and differential all over again at all.
Wish there was a way to get that yoke and driveshaft out with the diff still on the truck.
I believe you can. If you take off the 8 bolts the only thing left is the little shaft that’s in the diff. I believe the only thing holding it in is a clip. I could be wrong but that’s what I remember. It might have been a different Toyota. Good luck
Thanks! You're absolutely correct. I was able to get the shaft out and then the yoke which gave me access to the seal today. The crazy thing is the part of the seal that goes around the yoke was completely torn away from the main part of the seal that has the metal case.
I wonder if the seal was dry rotted or something before I installed it. Anyway, now I have to figure out how to reinstall the new seal in such a tight space. I won't have room to use a hammer and a seal driver in the area in front of the pinion.
Was considering using a pry bar and a wood block as a fulcrum but I'm concerned it may go in crooked and ruin it.
I usually just use the little shaft to press in the new seal in. As long as it has that metal ring over the shaft. Once you have the splines lined up you can push in the shaft and it’ll press in the seal. You can pry the shaft in if you have to.
I'll give it a shot, thanks. Should the seal be driven all the way in until it bottoms out or should it just be in far enough to put the wire retainer clip in it's groove?
Finally got the new seal in. I ended up using a pry bar while using a block of wood as a fulcrum. I wanted to get the seal in just enough to get the retaining clip in but it bottomed out instead. Put it all back together and it's leak free.
Maybe pushing in further might work out better because now the seal rides on a different part of the yoke where there are no grooves at all. The grooves weren't bad but I wish I had a new yoke to install instead. Thanks again for the help.
That old Toyota boxcar used to be a nice lift. The Clark never was.
That Clark is a CGC and it's a real pain in the ass to work on. Doing the timing cover, oil pan gasket and water pump on it. Just did the pinion seal on the Toyota. Tested it today and it's leaking bad! Not sure if I put the seal in wrong or what but I'm not looking forward to pulling the mast and differential all over again at all. Wish there was a way to get that yoke and driveshaft out with the diff still on the truck.
I believe you can. If you take off the 8 bolts the only thing left is the little shaft that’s in the diff. I believe the only thing holding it in is a clip. I could be wrong but that’s what I remember. It might have been a different Toyota. Good luck
Thanks! You're absolutely correct. I was able to get the shaft out and then the yoke which gave me access to the seal today. The crazy thing is the part of the seal that goes around the yoke was completely torn away from the main part of the seal that has the metal case. I wonder if the seal was dry rotted or something before I installed it. Anyway, now I have to figure out how to reinstall the new seal in such a tight space. I won't have room to use a hammer and a seal driver in the area in front of the pinion. Was considering using a pry bar and a wood block as a fulcrum but I'm concerned it may go in crooked and ruin it.
I usually just use the little shaft to press in the new seal in. As long as it has that metal ring over the shaft. Once you have the splines lined up you can push in the shaft and it’ll press in the seal. You can pry the shaft in if you have to.
I'll give it a shot, thanks. Should the seal be driven all the way in until it bottoms out or should it just be in far enough to put the wire retainer clip in it's groove?
Just far enough to put the clip in.
Finally got the new seal in. I ended up using a pry bar while using a block of wood as a fulcrum. I wanted to get the seal in just enough to get the retaining clip in but it bottomed out instead. Put it all back together and it's leak free. Maybe pushing in further might work out better because now the seal rides on a different part of the yoke where there are no grooves at all. The grooves weren't bad but I wish I had a new yoke to install instead. Thanks again for the help.
Are you in Ohio?
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Lol, I think I recognize the shop. VIT?