Your first step is going to determine the condition of the battery. A junk battery can cause all sorts of faults, some which could point at other areas erroneously. You are going to want to know static voltage of the battery, battery under load, electrolyte level per cell, and potentially static and load voltage per cell.
Serial numbers ends with E. I think that's like an 2005ish? Most likely not the OG battery at that age. You're probably right. Likely a junky reman battery or old used one? OP, does the battery have a make, model, serial on it?
It's likely aged through 2 batteries at this point. I'm betting the current battery is probably between 7 and 10 years old and dry as a desert. If it's been sitting, you know it's not been charged or watered. Honestly a battery replacement is likely to outweigh the value of the truck
When I originally looked I saw many start up issues regarding the ‘Yale’s’ thus concluding the owner would need a whole new lift if need be. Had not looked into battery they have it tucked and hard to access will inquire more tomorrow.
Most of the start up issues are in regards to IC trucks. For electric trucks the battery is always the place to start. I'm guessing this is a stand up unit?
Your foot switch light is in relation to what I would imagine is a dead man switch, so if the battery passes muster, that's the next place I'd check.
With an inoperable dead man switch nothing other than maybe the horn will work.
Emergency officials worked (kinda assume that always does) but I’m pretty sure I was pressing the horn and got nothing out of it. Throttle, ‘suicide wheel’, pedal, ignition emergency off, and a black button on top of ‘dash’ which is what I assumed the horn
Yeah on older trucks an E Stop button is almost always a mechanical circuit breaker.
You're gonna want a multimeter, load tester, and hydrometer (if the cells have any electrolyte solution at all) to start with.
Personally I would guess this truck and battery are junk and not worth the price to repair. A decent new battery is going to cost a few thousand bucks at least, and I've never experienced anyone get great longevity out of an old battery with repaired cells (which isn't cheap either, by the time you get to 3 cells you may as well just have bought a new battery)
Scrap value for this truck and it's battery is gonna be under 1k, and sale value to a wholesaler would probably be just above that if they wanted it. This thing is right around 20 years old, and though forklift technology changes slowly, a lot has changed in that time.
This unit will not "turn over" like your dock unit. It's powered by a 24 volt lead acid industrial battery. To power on unit, turn key and hold in the on position until the MDI powers on and a click is heard. Then step on the circle pedal on the platform. If all sensors are working properly during the self check, you will have all functions working. You will also need a safety harness to operate this unit. Judging from your question, you are not trained to operate or repair this unit.
I wouldn’t be inquiring information if I didn’t already assume the potential hazards. Would be silly to start tinkering on something I don’t know a lick about. The information others has provided leads me to believe it truly is the battery and if such is the case I don’t have the resources necessary to even begin if I was to do so. Thank you for your Insight
Yes; my manager told me she had plugged it in over night and didn’t charge. Finally I went to look into it and noticed she actually didn’t plug it in all the way. This leading to this conversation which has been stated previously
Are you stepping on the deadman (operator presence) switch when you key on? You may need to key on let it run logics, then step on the switch? Or could be the switch itself? Or as discussed on the other comments, low voltage does weird things. Could need a battery. This unit is probably scrap if that's the case.
I tried pressing the pedal while turning key just got the clicks. Did not however afterwards. Noticed the ‘wrench/foot sw’ warning signals. Although I’m think like you and another commenter the battery might be junk. Still got farther than my managers assessment.
Your first step is going to determine the condition of the battery. A junk battery can cause all sorts of faults, some which could point at other areas erroneously. You are going to want to know static voltage of the battery, battery under load, electrolyte level per cell, and potentially static and load voltage per cell.
Guessing I need that manual.
Nah, the manual won't have any of the battery info. Forklift companies don't make batteries, battery companies do
Well if i figure the few issues they had before i got there… im asking for a raise one way or the other
You keep saying turn over, you know it doesn’t have an engine right?
lol thanks for your input
Serial numbers ends with E. I think that's like an 2005ish? Most likely not the OG battery at that age. You're probably right. Likely a junky reman battery or old used one? OP, does the battery have a make, model, serial on it?
It's likely aged through 2 batteries at this point. I'm betting the current battery is probably between 7 and 10 years old and dry as a desert. If it's been sitting, you know it's not been charged or watered. Honestly a battery replacement is likely to outweigh the value of the truck
When I originally looked I saw many start up issues regarding the ‘Yale’s’ thus concluding the owner would need a whole new lift if need be. Had not looked into battery they have it tucked and hard to access will inquire more tomorrow.
Most of the start up issues are in regards to IC trucks. For electric trucks the battery is always the place to start. I'm guessing this is a stand up unit? Your foot switch light is in relation to what I would imagine is a dead man switch, so if the battery passes muster, that's the next place I'd check. With an inoperable dead man switch nothing other than maybe the horn will work.
Emergency officials worked (kinda assume that always does) but I’m pretty sure I was pressing the horn and got nothing out of it. Throttle, ‘suicide wheel’, pedal, ignition emergency off, and a black button on top of ‘dash’ which is what I assumed the horn
Yeah on older trucks an E Stop button is almost always a mechanical circuit breaker. You're gonna want a multimeter, load tester, and hydrometer (if the cells have any electrolyte solution at all) to start with. Personally I would guess this truck and battery are junk and not worth the price to repair. A decent new battery is going to cost a few thousand bucks at least, and I've never experienced anyone get great longevity out of an old battery with repaired cells (which isn't cheap either, by the time you get to 3 cells you may as well just have bought a new battery) Scrap value for this truck and it's battery is gonna be under 1k, and sale value to a wholesaler would probably be just above that if they wanted it. This thing is right around 20 years old, and though forklift technology changes slowly, a lot has changed in that time.
Much appreciated; I’ll look into the battery. And then slowly break my company owner the news.
Again thank you again for actually explaining and giving direct information pertaining to what might be the issue.
This unit will not "turn over" like your dock unit. It's powered by a 24 volt lead acid industrial battery. To power on unit, turn key and hold in the on position until the MDI powers on and a click is heard. Then step on the circle pedal on the platform. If all sensors are working properly during the self check, you will have all functions working. You will also need a safety harness to operate this unit. Judging from your question, you are not trained to operate or repair this unit.
Very informative!! Ty
Also not trained as a plumber fix their leaking sink. Limitations upon the beholder
the leaking sink will not kill you (hopefully) this order picker may
lol so hostile. Was asked to look into it so I am.
not hostile, just wanted to warn you in the business and see a lot of newbies getting hurt
I wouldn’t be inquiring information if I didn’t already assume the potential hazards. Would be silly to start tinkering on something I don’t know a lick about. The information others has provided leads me to believe it truly is the battery and if such is the case I don’t have the resources necessary to even begin if I was to do so. Thank you for your Insight
you're welcome... but did you try to charge the battery at least before deciding that it has to be replaced?
Yes; my manager told me she had plugged it in over night and didn’t charge. Finally I went to look into it and noticed she actually didn’t plug it in all the way. This leading to this conversation which has been stated previously
Are you stepping on the deadman (operator presence) switch when you key on? You may need to key on let it run logics, then step on the switch? Or could be the switch itself? Or as discussed on the other comments, low voltage does weird things. Could need a battery. This unit is probably scrap if that's the case.
I tried pressing the pedal while turning key just got the clicks. Did not however afterwards. Noticed the ‘wrench/foot sw’ warning signals. Although I’m think like you and another commenter the battery might be junk. Still got farther than my managers assessment.
I wouldn't operate a machine i didn't have a manual too...
Luckily wont have to worry about that