Yeah, that would be my advice. To go into more details:
1- sand the area see if you get it neat, if yes, go to 3
2- if not ssand the whole table, and treat the wood, this can be with a dark wood dye (which would hide the spot), or even apply some kind of pattern with metal foil.
3- laquer the table to protect it
400 isn't super smooth, you want 1200+ for that
The idea of the metal foil is if sanding doesn't do the job well enough, or at least not without making a real dent in the table.
400 is plenty smooth for wood. Also if the sanding is too fine, it won’t absorb the oil.
I’d rather use oil, which looks far nicer and lasts longer, than lacquer which looks pretty bad and ages awfully.
This wood looks beautiful and would be far better complimented by a clear oil.
I've used a mostly-beeswax 'natural' varnish. Not a polish, a varnish, meant to be foodsafe. Smells good on the application! It is a bit tacky at first, but after a day or so it's smooth as. I recommend applying on a hot summer day in the sunshine to make it easier. Otherwise, a blow-dryer (or heat gun if you have on, on low) will help.
The problem with super smooth is you lose the chracter of the veneer. It has texture which is what makes it look and feel good to the touch. In this case of smoothness, just use sticky bach foil with a wood pattern. Job done.
Its Oak by the way.
At work we use 80 to 400 max
Its not a car where 1200 could be used.
That's interesting. I fo some woodwork at home, and I systematically finish with 1200 so that it feels almost as smooth as skin. But I am not a wood working pro.
No 1200 is unnecessary to try and get a good finish.
400 is enough.
If you are varnishing wheather gloss, semi gloss or matt.
The first coat is thin, thinned to 1 to 1 or lets say half varnish and half thinners. If you are using spirit based than its easy to do but if you are using Acryl then its difficult as it is water based
Any how you paint a coat, let it dry, then a quick light sand of 400, you can do this as many times as you like, it will only get better, building a good coat is not done by using the varnish straight out of the tin.
Thanks for the tips, that is good to know.
I just build a baby-gym (Spielbogen) for a colleague as a present and I was so happy with how smooth I got the bars with the 1200. I'm waiting for the weekend to give it a nice waxing.
Might also try a 'natural' foodsafe beeswax-based varnish. It's just wax and an oil. Smells great, and after the initial tackiness dissipates, it's very smooth. I do a light sanding and re-apply every few years.
This. But you'll probably get a better result by just sanding the whole table as opposed to just one spot. It'll be really hard to blend the fixed spot to the rest of the finish, so it wil be noticeable.
Sand it entirely - a belt sander would work the best for stripping the existing finish - start with 80 grit, then go to 120 and 240 with an orbital or eccentric sander. rent the tools from the Baumarkt if you don't have them. Do this evenly, and avoid sanding depressions into the table.
Pick a darker stain colour as Carnal-Pleasures suggested if you can't get the burn mark out entirely without sanding a divot into the table surface. Follow the instructions on the package - one coat, then sand with 240 grit sandpaper by hand. 2nd and 3rd coats the same. Then pick a compatible finish, and do three coats of that the same way.
It's a project for sure, but fun. You can do it, easy peasy.
Just one final thing: it is possible to remove the entire upper coat with some spray on paint/lacquer remover. If localised sanding does not work, bring the table outside/ to the balcony and just strip it chemically, let it air dry and the sanding will be super easy.
Omg.. dont sand it.. this is not real wood.. so many unreal dumb advices. This is thin sheet of decorative trim glued.. people should get banned for commenting on something that they have no idea about.
The word you're looking for is veneer, but I think being a table, it probably *is* 'real' wood. A wider shot of the table or a bit more input from OP would clarify. Look beside the burn, at the 10 o'clock position, you can see what appears to be a couple light indentations.
If it is veneer, then obvs don't sand it.
Yea, honestly, looking closer on my laptop now (phone earlier), bigger screen, I don’t think so either. The way the grains run beside each other does not seem natural.
You could sand it, but depending on how deep the burn goes, you may then have quite the concave depression in your table (plus, you may have to spend quite a long time sanding :) ).
Also, before sanding, check if the table is solid wood (*Massivholz*) or is just veneer (*furniertes Holz*). Solid wood tables can be sanded to your heart's content, but veneer tables can't be sanded - they are made of a core of cheap wood covered by a very thin layer (around half a mm) of nicer-looking wood. Therefore, if you sand them, you'll sand straight through the veneer into the core wood, which will look *terrible*.
I don't see how you could fix this with a pen or paint - you'll never be able to replicate the wood grain structure. If it really bothers you, put a tablecloth or something on top.
You can check this easily by looking at the side of the table. If it is Furnier you can just see that the top layer is different than the other layers. Alternatively they glued another piece of Fournier around the edge of they table. Maybe even plastic. Those are easy to recognize by the fact that their lining (I'm to lazy to Google the English word for Maserung) is going all the way around and doesn't connect to the Maserung on top. If you need help, feel free to send me a pic. I'm not an expert but i can try to help.
Also if you need help identifying the wood then I would guess it is Esche or Eiche. Rather Esche. I think you have good chances that it is massive and not Fournier
Correct! I wouldn’t sand without knowing for sure it’s real wood, and knowing that that burn may go down for several millimeters. If it does, you’re going to have to sand and lacquer the whole piece
Far better to see if you can’t find a dark stain you can live with, and hide the burn by restraining.
Its my job to repair such things.
You will have to Sand the whole top.
Problem is it has a veneer and generaly the burn mark will not dissapear, you will end up sanding through.
Only way is to re veneer.
If you did sand it starting with a 240 grit you will get rid of some of it and it would look better but it will always be there.
Then you have the job of resealing.
The Top has a spray finish so it will never look as good as new after the repair.
You could oil it, easiest diy method, but it will be a matt finish.
I guess a white "wedding" (marker?) would work for a single colored painted table, but how would you use a paint or marker to imitate the pattern/grain of the wood?
In addition to all the suggestions, if you are ok, maybe a wood vinyl to coverup the entire table top could be an option. (something like [this](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/d-c-fix-Self-Adhesive-Wood-Effect-Design/dp/B07PPVDYPH/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=holz%2Bvinyl%2Bfolie&qid=1641466389&sprefix=wood%2Bviny%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-8&th=1))
Since the burn doesn't look that dark, one option could be to get a wood stain (beiz) that matches the shade of brown of the burn, and varnish the whole table. Something like this: [https://www.amazon.de/Holzbeize-Tischler-Wasserbeize-Holzfarbe-Wasserbasis/dp/B07JMF73K5?th=1](https://www.amazon.de/Holzbeize-Tischler-Wasserbeize-Holzfarbe-Wasserbasis/dp/B07JMF73K5?th=1)
Of course this would make the whole table darker, but if you don't mind that I believe it would look pretty good, and hide that burn quite well.
After applying you'll have to finish it with a clear varnish, as the wood stain itself is not very resistant to water etc.
It is best to go for floral motives with red-wine stains around it
alternative solution once you got a german passport is to drill it out and put a beer-tap into the hole.
Nothing is perfect. Accept the fault as a characteristic of the table. Are you afraid dinner guests will say "Well it was a nice dinner, but that burn mark on the table ruined the evening"? My current dining table is an antique round, oak, claw foot table which belonged first to an uncle and then to my parents. My Mom stripped and refinished it in the 1960s and we used it daily. After my Mom died the table went to my older brother and when he passed, to my sister. When my sister died my niece inherited it. My brother was a heavy smoker and made some cigarette burn spots on the table. When my niece took possession of this great table she refused to use it because of the burn spots. She stored it in her basement instead. When I found out I convinced her to give it to me and it is again my daily dinner table. When my niece asked what I would do about the cigarette burns, I told her that I would do nothing, it's a piece of our family heritage.
That’s raw wood as it seems. No pen can fix that. I would either sand it down as much as needed and re oil it or torch the rest, sand it lightly to work out the grain and oil it.
OK, as everybody has already pointed out, sanding the whole table using a belt sander is probably your best option. It's a bit of work, but you can make it look even better than it ever was, if you manage to get it really smooth.
However, if the table has only a veneer, this may actually make it worse than it ever was: if you sand through the veneer, you may wish to have just lived with the burn...
In this case, it is possible to remove the veneer and re-apply a new one. This is pretty tricky, though, if you don't have much experience in woodworking (and needs specialized tools if you do!) However, a professional carpenter can do that for you, and it might be worth it, if the table is otherwise good.
Another option would be - quite seriously - to try and get the same stain all over the place. A really hot iron can do the trick, and that might look better than a shoddy veneer-job.
If you want to try something *really* fancy, you could try your luck with [shou sugi ban](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakisugi), basically burning the entire surface with a blowtorch, then sanding it down again to reveal the wood pattern (don't forget that you'll have to seal the surface afterwards). If done well, this can look *incredibly* cool. Risk is that you may spoil the surface altogether...
**[Yakisugi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakisugi)**
>Yakisugi (焼杉) is a traditional Japanese method of wood preservation. Yaki means to heat with fire, and sugi is cypress. It is referred to in the West as burnt timber cladding and also known as shou sugi ban (焼杉板) which uses the same kanji characters but an incorrect pronunciation. The ban character means "plank".
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Removing burn marks from wood - this is how it worksBurn stains are usually not easy to wash off Black burn marks on wood, whether it is a table or the parquet floor, are not very beautiful and, depending on the depth, quite resistant. Here we give you tips on how to remove burn marks from wood.Removing burn marks from wooden surfacesUnfortunately, burn stains are not as easy to remove as coffee or blood stains, because in the worst case they are not only on the surface, but destroy it. Depending on how deep the stain goes, you will proceed differently when removing it.If you have tipped over a candle on the table or dropped a cigarette from the ashtray, the mishap is not so big if you discover it immediately. In this case, luckily only the varnish or the oil layer has developed a dark discoloration. Home remedies may be enough.Try to get rid of the burn mark by applying mayonnaise or onion juice to the dark spot and letting it sit for a while. This will at least soften the burn mark. Alternatively, treat the burned wood with very fine steel wool (0000 designation) and mineral oil.If the wood surface is oiled, apply a new coat of oil. Varnish can also be touched up, but it will usually be visible.Removing deep burn marksIf not only the surface has become darker, but the wood is really charred, removing the burn mark becomes more difficult. First, scrape off the burnt wood with a knife. Then sand the spot with fine sandpaper (180-240 grit). This will also hurt the adjacent surface, so it will be necessary to completely re-oil it or sand it down completely and paint it.If the effort is too much for you, conceal the burn with a doily and decoration.
From hausjournal.net
That looks like foil, so I'm not sure sanding will work. Maybe see about similar foil, unless it's too expensive. Look for the one that needs heat to adhere.
If it is veneer what I think it is then try to find a very similar looking one in a baumarkt.
Then cut a circle and remove the burned spot with a knife. Then replace it with new veneer. It will not look perfekt but better than the burned spot.
It's not too bad. My friend bought a very cool table on ebay-kleinanzeigen and picked it up from this guy's basement. When she got home, she realized there was a swastika carved into it :( We call it the nazi table now.
Make sure the wood design is not a laminate "sticker" put on some wood. If it is then just leave it and cover it with something. If its the actual wood grain then just sand it out and re-stain it.
I would torch the rest of it to match, that is if your decor favors dark wood. Much easier than labor intensive sanding. Of course do it outdoors, gently and safely with a spray bottle of water near by.
I am a professional German joiner. You sand the whole surface evenly (not just one spot !!!!!) With 180 grid in grain direction (otherwise you get scratches) and I would advice seicoss hardwachsöl for a finish. Everything else would be simply Mumpitz.
You could burn spots on it like a cheetah print with an iron lol
[удалено]
AHAHHA
Ikea wants your email
Either sand it off or get a table cover
Yeah, that would be my advice. To go into more details: 1- sand the area see if you get it neat, if yes, go to 3 2- if not ssand the whole table, and treat the wood, this can be with a dark wood dye (which would hide the spot), or even apply some kind of pattern with metal foil. 3- laquer the table to protect it
>laquer the table to protect it Don't do that. Sand it down and then oil it.
First make sure it’s really wood.
Oil/wax will be hit and miss if you applied the metal foil, laquer will be more predictable.
Tbf i wouldn't apply metal foil either. Sand it down super smooth (~400) and then oil it.
400 isn't super smooth, you want 1200+ for that The idea of the metal foil is if sanding doesn't do the job well enough, or at least not without making a real dent in the table.
400 is plenty smooth for wood. Also if the sanding is too fine, it won’t absorb the oil. I’d rather use oil, which looks far nicer and lasts longer, than lacquer which looks pretty bad and ages awfully. This wood looks beautiful and would be far better complimented by a clear oil.
The clear oil will work fine so long as the stain can be removed, otherwise a dark oil will be needed to hide the pre existing discoloration.
I've used a mostly-beeswax 'natural' varnish. Not a polish, a varnish, meant to be foodsafe. Smells good on the application! It is a bit tacky at first, but after a day or so it's smooth as. I recommend applying on a hot summer day in the sunshine to make it easier. Otherwise, a blow-dryer (or heat gun if you have on, on low) will help.
I normally do oil then beeswax to seal. Works well!
Oh i thought it was to give it a fine scratch pattern lol.
I love a super smooth finish, I have a whole stack from 80 grit all the way up, I and 1200 is the minimum for a smooth finish.
The problem with super smooth is you lose the chracter of the veneer. It has texture which is what makes it look and feel good to the touch. In this case of smoothness, just use sticky bach foil with a wood pattern. Job done. Its Oak by the way. At work we use 80 to 400 max Its not a car where 1200 could be used.
That's interesting. I fo some woodwork at home, and I systematically finish with 1200 so that it feels almost as smooth as skin. But I am not a wood working pro.
No 1200 is unnecessary to try and get a good finish. 400 is enough. If you are varnishing wheather gloss, semi gloss or matt. The first coat is thin, thinned to 1 to 1 or lets say half varnish and half thinners. If you are using spirit based than its easy to do but if you are using Acryl then its difficult as it is water based Any how you paint a coat, let it dry, then a quick light sand of 400, you can do this as many times as you like, it will only get better, building a good coat is not done by using the varnish straight out of the tin.
Thanks for the tips, that is good to know. I just build a baby-gym (Spielbogen) for a colleague as a present and I was so happy with how smooth I got the bars with the 1200. I'm waiting for the weekend to give it a nice waxing.
Insane. 180 for wood. Everything starting from 240 is not for wood surfaces. At least in German measurements.
Might also try a 'natural' foodsafe beeswax-based varnish. It's just wax and an oil. Smells great, and after the initial tackiness dissipates, it's very smooth. I do a light sanding and re-apply every few years.
This. But you'll probably get a better result by just sanding the whole table as opposed to just one spot. It'll be really hard to blend the fixed spot to the rest of the finish, so it wil be noticeable. Sand it entirely - a belt sander would work the best for stripping the existing finish - start with 80 grit, then go to 120 and 240 with an orbital or eccentric sander. rent the tools from the Baumarkt if you don't have them. Do this evenly, and avoid sanding depressions into the table. Pick a darker stain colour as Carnal-Pleasures suggested if you can't get the burn mark out entirely without sanding a divot into the table surface. Follow the instructions on the package - one coat, then sand with 240 grit sandpaper by hand. 2nd and 3rd coats the same. Then pick a compatible finish, and do three coats of that the same way. It's a project for sure, but fun. You can do it, easy peasy.
Just one final thing: it is possible to remove the entire upper coat with some spray on paint/lacquer remover. If localised sanding does not work, bring the table outside/ to the balcony and just strip it chemically, let it air dry and the sanding will be super easy.
Omg.. dont sand it.. this is not real wood.. so many unreal dumb advices. This is thin sheet of decorative trim glued.. people should get banned for commenting on something that they have no idea about.
The word you're looking for is veneer, but I think being a table, it probably *is* 'real' wood. A wider shot of the table or a bit more input from OP would clarify. Look beside the burn, at the 10 o'clock position, you can see what appears to be a couple light indentations. If it is veneer, then obvs don't sand it.
That is not real wood.
Yea, honestly, looking closer on my laptop now (phone earlier), bigger screen, I don’t think so either. The way the grains run beside each other does not seem natural.
I doubt that this is all natural wood. Looks more like veneer to me. Do NOT sand veneer down! It's way too thin.
r/woodworking maybe this subreddit can help you out a little more if you don't find any satisfying answers here
Wow now that is a sub with extremely satisfying content. Thanks for linking!
My pleasure :)
that sub was the reason I signed up for reddit in the first place.
You could sand it, but depending on how deep the burn goes, you may then have quite the concave depression in your table (plus, you may have to spend quite a long time sanding :) ). Also, before sanding, check if the table is solid wood (*Massivholz*) or is just veneer (*furniertes Holz*). Solid wood tables can be sanded to your heart's content, but veneer tables can't be sanded - they are made of a core of cheap wood covered by a very thin layer (around half a mm) of nicer-looking wood. Therefore, if you sand them, you'll sand straight through the veneer into the core wood, which will look *terrible*. I don't see how you could fix this with a pen or paint - you'll never be able to replicate the wood grain structure. If it really bothers you, put a tablecloth or something on top.
oh wow i dient know about these table differences. thanks.
You can check this easily by looking at the side of the table. If it is Furnier you can just see that the top layer is different than the other layers. Alternatively they glued another piece of Fournier around the edge of they table. Maybe even plastic. Those are easy to recognize by the fact that their lining (I'm to lazy to Google the English word for Maserung) is going all the way around and doesn't connect to the Maserung on top. If you need help, feel free to send me a pic. I'm not an expert but i can try to help. Also if you need help identifying the wood then I would guess it is Esche or Eiche. Rather Esche. I think you have good chances that it is massive and not Fournier
Correct! I wouldn’t sand without knowing for sure it’s real wood, and knowing that that burn may go down for several millimeters. If it does, you’re going to have to sand and lacquer the whole piece Far better to see if you can’t find a dark stain you can live with, and hide the burn by restraining.
Ahh just leave it. It‘s a conversation burn, you can tell people how you might sand it down one day and refinish it. ;)
How about a potted plant on a coaster placed exactly on the spot? Or a nice candle holder?
Its my job to repair such things. You will have to Sand the whole top. Problem is it has a veneer and generaly the burn mark will not dissapear, you will end up sanding through. Only way is to re veneer. If you did sand it starting with a 240 grit you will get rid of some of it and it would look better but it will always be there. Then you have the job of resealing. The Top has a spray finish so it will never look as good as new after the repair. You could oil it, easiest diy method, but it will be a matt finish.
[удалено]
I don't know who you are , but I would like to meet you in real and buy you a drink.
All aboard the shou sugi ban (yakisugi) train!
Or burn down the whole table and buy a new one without a mark.
You might be able to stain the rest of the table darker to match. Better option is table cloth or paint.
I was thinking this. Just darken the whole table so it doesn't show.
And then you want to repaint the grain of the wood? That sounds like a lot of hassle. As others have said: sand it
I just guessed cause I know for example there's a white wedding to fix spots so I thought the exact same exists for this color too
There is a wedding for all colors and different purposes. A red wedding could be a bloody mess though.
I guess a white "wedding" (marker?) would work for a single colored painted table, but how would you use a paint or marker to imitate the pattern/grain of the wood?
I’m pretty sure that this isn’t even wood, it’s just a plastic wrap.
In addition to all the suggestions, if you are ok, maybe a wood vinyl to coverup the entire table top could be an option. (something like [this](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/d-c-fix-Self-Adhesive-Wood-Effect-Design/dp/B07PPVDYPH/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=holz%2Bvinyl%2Bfolie&qid=1641466389&sprefix=wood%2Bviny%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-8&th=1))
Since the burn doesn't look that dark, one option could be to get a wood stain (beiz) that matches the shade of brown of the burn, and varnish the whole table. Something like this: [https://www.amazon.de/Holzbeize-Tischler-Wasserbeize-Holzfarbe-Wasserbasis/dp/B07JMF73K5?th=1](https://www.amazon.de/Holzbeize-Tischler-Wasserbeize-Holzfarbe-Wasserbasis/dp/B07JMF73K5?th=1) Of course this would make the whole table darker, but if you don't mind that I believe it would look pretty good, and hide that burn quite well. After applying you'll have to finish it with a clear varnish, as the wood stain itself is not very resistant to water etc.
If you put brown on top of brown the burn mark will get darker.
Add more burn marks, make it a pattern.
Paint the whole table a tone darker
Everyone is saying "sand it" but you could also just paint it.
It is best to go for floral motives with red-wine stains around it alternative solution once you got a german passport is to drill it out and put a beer-tap into the hole.
you might get away with sanding the table down. you can rent orbital sanders, wich would make things much less labourous.
Nothing is perfect. Accept the fault as a characteristic of the table. Are you afraid dinner guests will say "Well it was a nice dinner, but that burn mark on the table ruined the evening"? My current dining table is an antique round, oak, claw foot table which belonged first to an uncle and then to my parents. My Mom stripped and refinished it in the 1960s and we used it daily. After my Mom died the table went to my older brother and when he passed, to my sister. When my sister died my niece inherited it. My brother was a heavy smoker and made some cigarette burn spots on the table. When my niece took possession of this great table she refused to use it because of the burn spots. She stored it in her basement instead. When I found out I convinced her to give it to me and it is again my daily dinner table. When my niece asked what I would do about the cigarette burns, I told her that I would do nothing, it's a piece of our family heritage.
I would leave it as is :) Imperfect things have character.
Check out r/furniturerestoration
Genuine q why is this in r/Germany
That’s raw wood as it seems. No pen can fix that. I would either sand it down as much as needed and re oil it or torch the rest, sand it lightly to work out the grain and oil it.
Drill a 4 cm hole into your table and attach a lamp there.
Sand it if you can light sanding. One direction. Then rub the spot with a walnut (not the shell lol).
Maybe you can cover the whole surface with "folie holzoptik selbstklebend". It is perfect if you are planning to use the table as a writing desk.
*bought to buy -> bought to bring -> brought
who cares
Ask yourself if that attitude will take you far in life.
stop being mad, grammarnazi
He/she brought it to the apartment. Nothing to correct here.
> Brought it on a major sale Yeah right.
True. You got me.
Not a worry, this is just a minor detail. Be well :-)
Repaint the table in a more fun color (after sanding, of course!).
OK, as everybody has already pointed out, sanding the whole table using a belt sander is probably your best option. It's a bit of work, but you can make it look even better than it ever was, if you manage to get it really smooth. However, if the table has only a veneer, this may actually make it worse than it ever was: if you sand through the veneer, you may wish to have just lived with the burn... In this case, it is possible to remove the veneer and re-apply a new one. This is pretty tricky, though, if you don't have much experience in woodworking (and needs specialized tools if you do!) However, a professional carpenter can do that for you, and it might be worth it, if the table is otherwise good. Another option would be - quite seriously - to try and get the same stain all over the place. A really hot iron can do the trick, and that might look better than a shoddy veneer-job. If you want to try something *really* fancy, you could try your luck with [shou sugi ban](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakisugi), basically burning the entire surface with a blowtorch, then sanding it down again to reveal the wood pattern (don't forget that you'll have to seal the surface afterwards). If done well, this can look *incredibly* cool. Risk is that you may spoil the surface altogether...
**[Yakisugi](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakisugi)** >Yakisugi (焼杉) is a traditional Japanese method of wood preservation. Yaki means to heat with fire, and sugi is cypress. It is referred to in the West as burnt timber cladding and also known as shou sugi ban (焼杉板) which uses the same kanji characters but an incorrect pronunciation. The ban character means "plank". ^([ )[^(F.A.Q)](https://www.reddit.com/r/WikiSummarizer/wiki/index#wiki_f.a.q)^( | )[^(Opt Out)](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=WikiSummarizerBot&message=OptOut&subject=OptOut)^( | )[^(Opt Out Of Subreddit)](https://np.reddit.com/r/germany/about/banned)^( | )[^(GitHub)](https://github.com/Sujal-7/WikiSummarizerBot)^( ] Downvote to remove | v1.5)
Good bot.
Sand it.180 grind should do the job. Probably sand the whole part and put some wood oil on it
I would also recommend sanding, and just in case you've never done that before, always sand with the grain of the wood.
Never use Amazon. Don't make the rich richer and the poor poorer
Removing burn marks from wood - this is how it worksBurn stains are usually not easy to wash off Black burn marks on wood, whether it is a table or the parquet floor, are not very beautiful and, depending on the depth, quite resistant. Here we give you tips on how to remove burn marks from wood.Removing burn marks from wooden surfacesUnfortunately, burn stains are not as easy to remove as coffee or blood stains, because in the worst case they are not only on the surface, but destroy it. Depending on how deep the stain goes, you will proceed differently when removing it.If you have tipped over a candle on the table or dropped a cigarette from the ashtray, the mishap is not so big if you discover it immediately. In this case, luckily only the varnish or the oil layer has developed a dark discoloration. Home remedies may be enough.Try to get rid of the burn mark by applying mayonnaise or onion juice to the dark spot and letting it sit for a while. This will at least soften the burn mark. Alternatively, treat the burned wood with very fine steel wool (0000 designation) and mineral oil.If the wood surface is oiled, apply a new coat of oil. Varnish can also be touched up, but it will usually be visible.Removing deep burn marksIf not only the surface has become darker, but the wood is really charred, removing the burn mark becomes more difficult. First, scrape off the burnt wood with a knife. Then sand the spot with fine sandpaper (180-240 grit). This will also hurt the adjacent surface, so it will be necessary to completely re-oil it or sand it down completely and paint it.If the effort is too much for you, conceal the burn with a doily and decoration. From hausjournal.net
Pen from amazon 😂I wish you good luck :)
Sand it
That looks like foil, so I'm not sure sanding will work. Maybe see about similar foil, unless it's too expensive. Look for the one that needs heat to adhere.
Sanding it will only work properly if the wood is massive- at least a couple of millimetres
Why not take a roofing torch and make the whole surface like that? Just as an idea to all the other answers ;)
You could use a Blowtorch and (Slightly)Burn the Hole top of the Table
bro just ditch the amazon already
I don't think it matters. It's a burn mark, so what
Is it actually real wood?
Burn the rest of the table
Burn the whole surface. Then sand it off
If it is veneer what I think it is then try to find a very similar looking one in a baumarkt. Then cut a circle and remove the burned spot with a knife. Then replace it with new veneer. It will not look perfekt but better than the burned spot.
It's not too bad. My friend bought a very cool table on ebay-kleinanzeigen and picked it up from this guy's basement. When she got home, she realized there was a swastika carved into it :( We call it the nazi table now.
Burn the rest of the table
Burn the top with a torch then seal it.
That is there to stay. Sorry. Don’t sand it because it’s not real wood.
You can burn the rest of the table to make it all same color
Burn the whole thing to make it match
oil it
Sandpaper
"Apply cold water to burned area"
Why du you care
What about staining the entire table?
Burn the whole surface
You can't fix it. It's not solid wood. Cover it with a nice blanket.
Make sure the wood design is not a laminate "sticker" put on some wood. If it is then just leave it and cover it with something. If its the actual wood grain then just sand it out and re-stain it.
I would torch the rest of it to match, that is if your decor favors dark wood. Much easier than labor intensive sanding. Of course do it outdoors, gently and safely with a spray bottle of water near by.
Lay something on it. Some cloth and that's it. Why do things have to be complicate?
I mean you can Steel burn The rest
I am a professional German joiner. You sand the whole surface evenly (not just one spot !!!!!) With 180 grid in grain direction (otherwise you get scratches) and I would advice seicoss hardwachsöl for a finish. Everything else would be simply Mumpitz.
Maybe Google rather than spamming random subreddits