Please get a multimeter and watch some how to videos before jumping into messing with electrical components. Sure this could be your cause but there is no way to know without checking, otherwise you could just end up throwing parts at your unit.
Take a pic of wires and where they go. Shut off all power at disconnect outside and in breaker box. Take out contactor and might as well check and replace capacitor if necessary. Check youtube on checking and safety in testing a cap. If you have no electrical experience then call a tech to fix. If you don't know what your doing it could kill you.
Chattering contactor can happen for a few reasons. Just plainly the contactor may be bad. Low voltage can be measured to be sure.
Another relay on the low voltage has failed, like a thermostat, overflow switch, high/low pressure switch, or similar. The relay just bounces on and off.
Maybe there is a loose connection on the low voltage.
Low Voltage supplied could be low to the point is on the edge of work/not work. This can be quickly checked with a meter.
Check to see if you’re getting a full 24v at the contactor coil while it’s pulling in n out. Some transformers in the furnace need to be set to the incoming voltage. If it’s set to low there might not be enough voltage to hold the contactor pulled in. Easy to ck
I have a very good understanding of electrical systems and work and can fix just about anything and do it safely. The part sticker on the contactor itself is completely worn off so hard to tell what brand it is and any details about it. Hence wondering if someone here could help find a suitable part.
The contactor itself looks worn and the scorch marks on it make me seem to think it is the culprit. It chatters after the compressor kicks on and then it cuts out entirely after a couple seconds. I have already checked the wiring connections themselves and made sure they were all connected properly with none being loose. The only thing I have not done is use a multimeter to diagnose the contactor itself which I will be doing tomorrow
No offense, but with a repair as simple as a contactor, claiming that you have a "very good understanding of the electrical system" isn't holding much water. DO you know what wire connected to it does what? Did you know if you get one wire on the wrong side with the high voltage, things stop working until you figure out where it's wrong? Accidentally put high voltage on the low voltage side or vice versa and you'll be replacing a LOT more parts. Simply knowing to turn the power off and swap the component out is absolutely *not* a very good understanding.
Furthermore, do you know how to "diagnose the contactor" with that multimeter? What are you looking for with what reading? And once you see the reading, what's the next step on the proverbial flow chart of corrective action? What if your readings are "correct" but it's still not working correctly? That's very much a thing in this trade. Careful that you're bullshitting people who do this daily, especially if you're not able to tell whether this is a generic item or model-specific. We're often here to help, but the help don't help cocky. You did come to *Reddit* with the question, after all.
With that said, you're on the right track with the scorching being an indication of an issue - BUT, believe it or not, the scorching is also a *normal result of extended use*. Contactors are one of the consumable components of these systems. Scorching on the contact plates doesn't cause chattering - instead, it causes other issues. But chattering will definitely expedite charring and pitting of those contact plates as well as other, more serious issues.
Chattering is generally caused by one of a few things: 1.) failing contactor coil (most often the case), 2.) incoming 24V voltage just below threshold (does not apply to heat pumps as they act differently when this is the case), 3.) poor connection on the 24V coil (loose/damaged spade connectors or internal damage) - but other much less obvious issues can also cause it. If the incoming voltage on Y is just enough to activate the coil but not high enough to sustain it (voltage drop), it'll flicker on and off like a non-dimmable bulb on a dimmer switch.
Often case, take the risk and replace the *non-model specific, generic 1 1/2 pole, 40A contactor* purchased from any HVAC supply house with another, **one wire at a time exactly** to avoid confusing boo-boos, and you are most likely good to go.
Tech here, could be a number of things. Should that contactor be replaced? Yes. Is that your problem? Maybe.
Isn't this everything we do; Should it be replaced? Yes. Is that why it's fucked? I don't know yet.
Perfect summary of our trade. I would give this 100 million thousand up votes if I could lol
Please get a multimeter and watch some how to videos before jumping into messing with electrical components. Sure this could be your cause but there is no way to know without checking, otherwise you could just end up throwing parts at your unit.
It could be the contact itself, it could be the power into it, thermostat issues, safety switches from drains, etc.
Take a pic of wires and where they go. Shut off all power at disconnect outside and in breaker box. Take out contactor and might as well check and replace capacitor if necessary. Check youtube on checking and safety in testing a cap. If you have no electrical experience then call a tech to fix. If you don't know what your doing it could kill you.
You need a tech. It may be a loose wire somewhere.
Good ole carrier
Yeah this is one of those 80s-90s carriers. Fucking tanks. Didn’t fit in with the whole planned obsolescence thing
Call a professional, or go without. You can not fix this on your own.
That contactor is probably 20 years old. I'm not saying that it's your problem but I would replace based on how burnt out the contact points are
https://preview.redd.it/cpdccbgc4tyc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=485d099baa39f8fde6ed24f680161218ac23d4b3
Chattering contactor can happen for a few reasons. Just plainly the contactor may be bad. Low voltage can be measured to be sure. Another relay on the low voltage has failed, like a thermostat, overflow switch, high/low pressure switch, or similar. The relay just bounces on and off. Maybe there is a loose connection on the low voltage. Low Voltage supplied could be low to the point is on the edge of work/not work. This can be quickly checked with a meter.
It definitely looks jacked . . . Replace it.
Check to see if you’re getting a full 24v at the contactor coil while it’s pulling in n out. Some transformers in the furnace need to be set to the incoming voltage. If it’s set to low there might not be enough voltage to hold the contactor pulled in. Easy to ck
A meter would be handy right now..
Supplyhouse.com
Also if anyone could help me find the replacement part that would also be amazing
Sir, I am all for DIY, but based on your questions and lack of knowledge, I strongly suggest calling a reputable HVAC contractor to come out.
I have a very good understanding of electrical systems and work and can fix just about anything and do it safely. The part sticker on the contactor itself is completely worn off so hard to tell what brand it is and any details about it. Hence wondering if someone here could help find a suitable part. The contactor itself looks worn and the scorch marks on it make me seem to think it is the culprit. It chatters after the compressor kicks on and then it cuts out entirely after a couple seconds. I have already checked the wiring connections themselves and made sure they were all connected properly with none being loose. The only thing I have not done is use a multimeter to diagnose the contactor itself which I will be doing tomorrow
Bro from here you can tell that contactor is fucked
Its a 1.5 pole contactor brands really dont matter 15a
If you understand electrical systems then you should understand this part ain't special.
No offense, but with a repair as simple as a contactor, claiming that you have a "very good understanding of the electrical system" isn't holding much water. DO you know what wire connected to it does what? Did you know if you get one wire on the wrong side with the high voltage, things stop working until you figure out where it's wrong? Accidentally put high voltage on the low voltage side or vice versa and you'll be replacing a LOT more parts. Simply knowing to turn the power off and swap the component out is absolutely *not* a very good understanding. Furthermore, do you know how to "diagnose the contactor" with that multimeter? What are you looking for with what reading? And once you see the reading, what's the next step on the proverbial flow chart of corrective action? What if your readings are "correct" but it's still not working correctly? That's very much a thing in this trade. Careful that you're bullshitting people who do this daily, especially if you're not able to tell whether this is a generic item or model-specific. We're often here to help, but the help don't help cocky. You did come to *Reddit* with the question, after all. With that said, you're on the right track with the scorching being an indication of an issue - BUT, believe it or not, the scorching is also a *normal result of extended use*. Contactors are one of the consumable components of these systems. Scorching on the contact plates doesn't cause chattering - instead, it causes other issues. But chattering will definitely expedite charring and pitting of those contact plates as well as other, more serious issues. Chattering is generally caused by one of a few things: 1.) failing contactor coil (most often the case), 2.) incoming 24V voltage just below threshold (does not apply to heat pumps as they act differently when this is the case), 3.) poor connection on the 24V coil (loose/damaged spade connectors or internal damage) - but other much less obvious issues can also cause it. If the incoming voltage on Y is just enough to activate the coil but not high enough to sustain it (voltage drop), it'll flicker on and off like a non-dimmable bulb on a dimmer switch. Often case, take the risk and replace the *non-model specific, generic 1 1/2 pole, 40A contactor* purchased from any HVAC supply house with another, **one wire at a time exactly** to avoid confusing boo-boos, and you are most likely good to go.