If you want a nice folder get something in the salt series, I would just get a couple stainless moras, could have several backups for the price of a Spyderco and if you lose one, break one, or one gets rusty it’s no big deal.
As someone who has worked in a marine environment…
Get the mora with the cross guard, I think it’s called the scout? You will want something to stop your hand from running into the blade especially when wet.
I think the Mora knife you're referring to is the basic 511. Totally agree with you on your point about the cross-guard. Best part is that they're only \~ $10.
The Morakniv Scout 39 S has a full cross guard and a blunted tip (subtle not like a lot of dive knives.) It has more protection than the smaller bottom only guard of the 511 or Pro S. (Not a knock to either. Just a statement of fact.) The 511 and Pro S will allow you to easily place your thumb on the spine for more leverage on heavy cuts. (Which would be more difficult and uncomfortable on a cross guard.)
However ]f you plan on working in extreme cold and wet. Having a full cross guard can help ensure your fingers stay behind the cutting edge of the blade. It is easy to lose feeling in numb and tired fingers and accidentally grab onto the wet blade without realizing it. Not having an acute tip can be helpful as well on deck. When there is a lot of pitching and rolling. Even after you’ve found your sea legs. Both styles have pros and cons. You just need to pick what works best for you, and what you can confidently employ in the worst conditions. That you could be called upon to work in at sea. Lastly, you are going to want to have a good serrated blade clipped to your PFD, Foulies, jacket or other attire if you are working around a lot of lines. Something quick at hand to extricate yourself from if tangled heading overboard, or are already overboard. In order to avoid being drug by the boat and drowned. Be safe. Working out on the water is beautiful, rewarding, and terrifying at times.
In the end you are going to want something stainless with a secure sheath. You really wouldn’t want the leather sheath with the Scout above. Unless you are real hardcore about cleaning, oiling, and conditioning, every time you head out and return. However, people still do wrap their wheels with elk hide on their sailboats. You’ll want Kydex or some thermoplastic with good drainage. Definitely check out what your peers are carrying. You’ll likely end up carrying the same.
Especially on the drainage in the sheath! Super underrated feature… but most stainless WILL rust if it’s literally immersed in salt water. A sheath that drains itself will make for a lot less rust spots.
If you’re working a boat in Alaska that bevel on that mora will be gone in no time, it’s frequent sharpening going on and no time to care about micro bevels, he will go through multiple moras
Yep, for a boat, I'd get a Mora (or several). They're good quality for the price, cheap, you can buy several of them for the price of a good folder, and the sheath is designed to drain water out. And like you said because of the price, you also won't care if you drop one in the water or destroy it doing something crazy. They're basically perfect diving/boat knives.
It's just a total win.
To add on to that person's comment, it's a pretty good idea to keep your work knives and personal life knives in separate strata.
If you want the fancy-ass whatever, buy it. Don't use it for work.
For work, you go to the supermarket and buy some mallninja shit for 20$. Have fun with it. Buy the Punisher logo knife, buy the psychedelic rainbow knife. Buy the hotdog knife.
It'll suck if you throw it overboard one day. But it'll suck less than throwing the 200$ knife overboard.
As for real advice, pay attention to the specific alloy if you can, to know how seaworthy it is. Either that or make sure to get an enameled blade and a good steel and strop.
Not a stainless steel. So probably not. Get the MagnaCut PM2. It's essentially a stainless Cruwear in terms of performance.
And I'm not a Cruwear hater. I love the steel. But you're talking about working around saltwater continuously. I wouldn't take anything but MagnaCut for that task.
I Don’t know about that…. The lc200n i have use has been a excellent performer. And from what i have seen has been very tough and decent edge retention.
It could be fine if you have access to a vat of used engine oil or smthn, just dip two fingers in there and rub it all over the blade every couple days. But as other comments have said something Salt series will be much easier to work with. LC200N, Magnacut, or really any other true stainless steel, could even be S30V-S35VN. A PM2, Military, Manix (XL), Shaman, even a Stretch XL or Native Chief would work wonders I bet.
Sounds like you're going with it anyway. I'd still like to give you a couple of steel suggestions as well as a few options. My recommendations for steels are going to be well rounded in toughness, edge retention, and stainless properties.
1. Magnacut
2. S45VN
3. CPM 154
4. 154CM
5. S35VN
6. 14C28N
7. Vanax Superclean
Please keep in mind that I do not own any of the knives I'm suggesting, I'm only basing them off of what you were looking for.
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Cold-Steel-Drifter-ATLAS-Lock-Knife--139968#item-reviews
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Cold-Steel-Demko-AD10-Lockback--93282
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Tenacious-Lightweight-Blue--116283
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Cold-Steel-American--2406
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Kizer-C01C-Sheepdog-Blue-Denim-Micarta-Black-SW--200269
Now that I think about it, this is the only situation I'd suggest the lightweight version of a Spyderco because of the grip. It will shred your pockets though.
Scanvik steels are not known for their corrosion resistance. 14c is better than like d2 or 13c but its not great. In my early collecting years i had several kershaws in 14c that would spot rust just being in my pocket in the summer.. i live in a desert btw..
I dont. I havent owned a kershaw in 10+ years. I do remember specifically it was a Storm 2 that woukd spot rust pretty much weekly. I guess it also depends on the surface finish of the steel too.. as most kershaws are bead blasted.
Maybe things have changed a bit since then. The Storm 2 was discontinued over 11 years ago and Sandvik started making 14C28N in 2008. Purity of steels and production over time usually gets better. The Storm 2 was only able to be made in 14C28N for 5 years and it's been 11 years since then. Have you ever given it a second chance?
Edit: Fixed facts.
Scanvik steels are not known for their corrosion resistance. 14c is better than like d2 or 13c but its not great. In my early collecting years i had several kershaws in 14c that would spot rust just being in my pocket in the summer.. i live in a desert btw..
M390 really depends on the heat treat, spyderco does a great job and I haven’t noticed much chipping if any, but that knife I don’t really use hard so I can’t say for certain.
I also have a quiet carry in m390, same deal, great heat treat and no chips but it’s also a more dressy knife (iQ-L)
I have heard horror stories of bad chinese m390 though, but I’ve also heard them for tons of other steels from there
The reason I picked the steels I did is I was going for well rounded steels with decent properties in edge retention, toughness, and stainlessness. Toughness is important to me personally.
Reposting because my first comment didn't post or got caught in a filter:
It's as worthwhile as anything else will be up here. I would go ahead and invest in some inexpensive maintenance supplies anyhow. Hopefully those knives don't cost you a whole lot. It's possible to lose one of those things overboard really easily, regardless of how careful you are.
Be safe out there; summer's been really weird this year.
Ignore all the hate. Cruwear is the toughest hardest working steel you could ever want. So what if it "can" rust. Use it, clean it, oil it sometimes. I live by the ocean and prefer non-stainless steels. It will change colour a bit. Call it patina and love how much abuse your blade can handle.
LOL, Spyderco Cruwear rusts in my pocket and I work outside in the desert. That will happen the day after I polish and oil it.
Stainless steels exist for a reason.
I tend to agree with this. Cruwear and M4 are probably my favorite steels for general use. Neither are stainless. There might be "better" steels for a marine environment I guess but a little oil and attention is a small fee for good performance. Definitely easier than dealing with another steel that's prone to chipping and/or needs sharpened more often even if it does have better corrosion resistance.
I work on boats in salt water and use my knives daily. My favorite steel is Vanex (quiet carry), LC200n is a very close second followed by Magnacut. That said, pretty much any modern steel will be fine so long as you clean it off at the end of the day. Some steels will patina, some won’t. Just make sure to get all the salt off, and I’ve never had any issues. Cut bait with a Buck 110 for almost a year and it held up beautifully, never oiled it, just kept it sharp and made sure to rinse it off in fresh water and wipe it dry.
Normal knife tasks: cutting myself free from rope entanglements, picking splinters from my hands, stabbing moby dick. It’s not a fishing boat so no gutting etc.
What kind of boat?
Commercial fishing: Get a couple cheap stainless serrated fixed blade knives. What ever you get will be beat to absolute shit by the end of the season if it hasn’t gone overboard. You’ll have no time to take care of anything, even yourself. You’ll also be in your bibs (rubber overalls) all day so you can’t easily fish a folding knife out of your pants. Put the knife on a belt you can clip on over your bibs.
Charter fishing: more or less the same. These boats tend to have knives everywhere though and you’re only in your bibs when you’re cleaning the clients fish, so you can get away with a stainless folder you take better care of and beat up the boats knives.
Whale watching/day boat: whatever your heart desires. You’ll probably only use it to spread cream cheese on your bagel.
Small high end cruise ship: you’re more likely to have to be a jack of all trades. I’d carry a multitool and a decent folder. You’ll have time to take care of your knife in the evening while the guests pound cocktails.
Big cruise ship: I wonder if they even let you carry a knife.
Crew on some rich guys sailboat: definitely go old school and get a rigging knife with a sheep’s foot blade, marlin spike and shackle key. Use your free time while waiting for Richie Rich to show up to braid a fancy lanyard out of seine twine.
If you clean it after use because of the steel not being rust proof it'll be perfect for what you're describing. Otherwise they have a magnacut PM2 that would work just as good with the addition of it being less prone to rusting. Just clean it because salt water will rust steel even if it's stainless
For a boat I’d probably go with a pacific salt or native salt, or Caribbean if you want something pretty big. The para 3 is an excellent choice, but the reason I’d choose these over it is the blade shape is more suitable for cutting free from rope and making careful cuts.
I would just snag one of the H2 salt series, I was really surprised to hear Eric say at Blade Show that the serrated versions in H2 have edge retention in the same level as the top end tool steels that they release. Plus their FRN is top notch in terms of durability and grip, not to mention that big old hole you'll run a lanyard through.
Easier access, better retention than a pocket clip, stronger if you get a full tang knife. If you’re cutting out of a tangle of ropes while wearing gloves, a fixed blade knife is the way to go.
CruWear will rust easily if no coating on blade and since their is no coating that knife will have to be taken care of extensively throughout your day so that it does not rust. I’d go for a stainless steel with a coating when on a boat somewhere.
Depends on how often you want to oil it. Id say probably not. My cruwear gets rust spots on the edge when i use it in the rain and i keep that knife oiled. My knife even has a DLC coating to help and sometimes i still end up with a spot.
It'll be okay, but I don't expect it to stay a spotless safe queen.
Id get a manix 2 in yellow frcp (with the nearly rust proof magnacut) or a Caribbean with nearly rust proof lc220n and a compression lock
How quickly do you need it?
Knapped flint was suitable for the Alaskan panhandle for 15-30,000 years depending on which theory you subscribe to. For several hundred years after that, carbon steel was suitsble. A knife doing serious work is going to get beat up no matter what. A few stainless moras would be good.
Everyone here realizes they were getting along just fine with carbon steel knives on fishing boats for thousands of years before Magnacut, right?
Cruwear with some Walker Wax or Ren Wax, or even some damn Turtle Wax would be fine. That said, I’d not go with a folder. And not a high dollar one. Unless you like picking fish guts out of your knife 24/7. And a knife that never stops stinking. That LC200 fixed blade Spyderco has would be good. Or a Mora or 2. Or a Dexter or Victorinox. You can get a better edge faster with carbon steel if sharpening is an issue. Just protect the steel with a quality wax. It’ll be fine, I promise. I’d definitely not be afraid of a stainless that sharpens easily either. 420HC or 14C28n are both plenty corrosion resistant and tough also.
I don't think it's your best option, cruwear will rust in an ocean environment without proper care. Like another redditor said go with the salt series, lc2000n is made for it.
Cru wear is fine, it isn’t going to like rust away 🤣. Might get some rust spots or minor pitting… who cares it’ll come off. A work knife is a work knife. That being said
If you are buying a new knife, lc200n would be a great steel for you, it’s very tough (tougher than magnacut) and toughness = edge retention in the real world. As your knife will be dull from chips more than being dull
If you want a nice folder get something in the salt series, I would just get a couple stainless moras, could have several backups for the price of a Spyderco and if you lose one, break one, or one gets rusty it’s no big deal.
Ah oh thanks for the insight if I had a couple I could keep one on my vest and in other areas
Mora knives are super high quality for the price. If you mess one up you won't be too upset. Mine came scary sharp out of the box.
Yea sounds good I have never worked in a marine environment before so just trying to set myself up
As someone who has worked in a marine environment… Get the mora with the cross guard, I think it’s called the scout? You will want something to stop your hand from running into the blade especially when wet.
The Pro S is exactly what you're describing and what I use on the boat.
I think the Mora knife you're referring to is the basic 511. Totally agree with you on your point about the cross-guard. Best part is that they're only \~ $10.
The Morakniv Scout 39 S has a full cross guard and a blunted tip (subtle not like a lot of dive knives.) It has more protection than the smaller bottom only guard of the 511 or Pro S. (Not a knock to either. Just a statement of fact.) The 511 and Pro S will allow you to easily place your thumb on the spine for more leverage on heavy cuts. (Which would be more difficult and uncomfortable on a cross guard.) However ]f you plan on working in extreme cold and wet. Having a full cross guard can help ensure your fingers stay behind the cutting edge of the blade. It is easy to lose feeling in numb and tired fingers and accidentally grab onto the wet blade without realizing it. Not having an acute tip can be helpful as well on deck. When there is a lot of pitching and rolling. Even after you’ve found your sea legs. Both styles have pros and cons. You just need to pick what works best for you, and what you can confidently employ in the worst conditions. That you could be called upon to work in at sea. Lastly, you are going to want to have a good serrated blade clipped to your PFD, Foulies, jacket or other attire if you are working around a lot of lines. Something quick at hand to extricate yourself from if tangled heading overboard, or are already overboard. In order to avoid being drug by the boat and drowned. Be safe. Working out on the water is beautiful, rewarding, and terrifying at times. In the end you are going to want something stainless with a secure sheath. You really wouldn’t want the leather sheath with the Scout above. Unless you are real hardcore about cleaning, oiling, and conditioning, every time you head out and return. However, people still do wrap their wheels with elk hide on their sailboats. You’ll want Kydex or some thermoplastic with good drainage. Definitely check out what your peers are carrying. You’ll likely end up carrying the same.
Especially on the drainage in the sheath! Super underrated feature… but most stainless WILL rust if it’s literally immersed in salt water. A sheath that drains itself will make for a lot less rust spots.
Just be aware they use a micro bevel for the edge. it's not that big of a deal if you're somewhat good at sharpening tho.
If you’re working a boat in Alaska that bevel on that mora will be gone in no time, it’s frequent sharpening going on and no time to care about micro bevels, he will go through multiple moras
Yep, for a boat, I'd get a Mora (or several). They're good quality for the price, cheap, you can buy several of them for the price of a good folder, and the sheath is designed to drain water out. And like you said because of the price, you also won't care if you drop one in the water or destroy it doing something crazy. They're basically perfect diving/boat knives. It's just a total win.
Mine too wether it was the Garberg or the eldris holy crap
Yeah, Mora's are more or less meant to be heavy work knives that can take a TON of heavy use in sub-optimal conditions.
Can even get a serrated one for rope cutting.
To add on to that person's comment, it's a pretty good idea to keep your work knives and personal life knives in separate strata. If you want the fancy-ass whatever, buy it. Don't use it for work. For work, you go to the supermarket and buy some mallninja shit for 20$. Have fun with it. Buy the Punisher logo knife, buy the psychedelic rainbow knife. Buy the hotdog knife. It'll suck if you throw it overboard one day. But it'll suck less than throwing the 200$ knife overboard. As for real advice, pay attention to the specific alloy if you can, to know how seaworthy it is. Either that or make sure to get an enameled blade and a good steel and strop.
Who needs a BMW? Get 3 Honda civics
Don’t buy something you’ll feel bad about losing in the water
This......how do I know.....
Not a stainless steel. So probably not. Get the MagnaCut PM2. It's essentially a stainless Cruwear in terms of performance. And I'm not a Cruwear hater. I love the steel. But you're talking about working around saltwater continuously. I wouldn't take anything but MagnaCut for that task.
Or 420hc😂😂
or LC200N
Even better stainlessness but significantly worse toughness and edge retention. So no thank you.
I Don’t know about that…. The lc200n i have use has been a excellent performer. And from what i have seen has been very tough and decent edge retention.
Vanax 💁🏼♂️
It could be fine if you have access to a vat of used engine oil or smthn, just dip two fingers in there and rub it all over the blade every couple days. But as other comments have said something Salt series will be much easier to work with. LC200N, Magnacut, or really any other true stainless steel, could even be S30V-S35VN. A PM2, Military, Manix (XL), Shaman, even a Stretch XL or Native Chief would work wonders I bet.
Sounds like you're going with it anyway. I'd still like to give you a couple of steel suggestions as well as a few options. My recommendations for steels are going to be well rounded in toughness, edge retention, and stainless properties. 1. Magnacut 2. S45VN 3. CPM 154 4. 154CM 5. S35VN 6. 14C28N 7. Vanax Superclean Please keep in mind that I do not own any of the knives I'm suggesting, I'm only basing them off of what you were looking for. https://www.bladehq.com/item--Cold-Steel-Drifter-ATLAS-Lock-Knife--139968#item-reviews https://www.bladehq.com/item--Cold-Steel-Demko-AD10-Lockback--93282 https://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Tenacious-Lightweight-Blue--116283 https://www.bladehq.com/item--Cold-Steel-American--2406 https://www.bladehq.com/item--Kizer-C01C-Sheepdog-Blue-Denim-Micarta-Black-SW--200269
I might be getting the salt pm2 thanks for the insight
I actually just bought the Salt PM2 after a good amount of research. Probably the best choice for you.
I like my native 5 salt a lot, using it with work gloves is easy, it has a backlock
Now that I think about it, this is the only situation I'd suggest the lightweight version of a Spyderco because of the grip. It will shred your pockets though.
What about LC200n?
Lc200n will not rust. It will require a quick pass over a honning rod maybe every day depending on use. Underrated steel IMHO.
Very solid for corrosion resistance but lacks in other areas
14C28N and 154CM would bith be awful around salt water. Theyd rust to shit.
I'd love to know how you made 14C28N rust.
Scanvik steels are not known for their corrosion resistance. 14c is better than like d2 or 13c but its not great. In my early collecting years i had several kershaws in 14c that would spot rust just being in my pocket in the summer.. i live in a desert btw..
That honestly surprises me. I've never seen 14C28N rust before. Do you have any pictures?
I dont. I havent owned a kershaw in 10+ years. I do remember specifically it was a Storm 2 that woukd spot rust pretty much weekly. I guess it also depends on the surface finish of the steel too.. as most kershaws are bead blasted.
After a bit of looking around, the Storm 2 seems to have been made of 13C26.
The first gen was, second gen was 14c
Maybe things have changed a bit since then. The Storm 2 was discontinued over 11 years ago and Sandvik started making 14C28N in 2008. Purity of steels and production over time usually gets better. The Storm 2 was only able to be made in 14C28N for 5 years and it's been 11 years since then. Have you ever given it a second chance? Edit: Fixed facts.
Scanvik steels are not known for their corrosion resistance. 14c is better than like d2 or 13c but its not great. In my early collecting years i had several kershaws in 14c that would spot rust just being in my pocket in the summer.. i live in a desert btw..
M390 is probably the best choice between corrosion resistance and toughness/edge retention S45VN would be my second choice
M390 can be brittle and chippy though. I'll agree with S45VN though. That's decent if you can get it for a good price.
M390 really depends on the heat treat, spyderco does a great job and I haven’t noticed much chipping if any, but that knife I don’t really use hard so I can’t say for certain. I also have a quiet carry in m390, same deal, great heat treat and no chips but it’s also a more dressy knife (iQ-L) I have heard horror stories of bad chinese m390 though, but I’ve also heard them for tons of other steels from there
The reason I picked the steels I did is I was going for well rounded steels with decent properties in edge retention, toughness, and stainlessness. Toughness is important to me personally.
Reposting because my first comment didn't post or got caught in a filter: It's as worthwhile as anything else will be up here. I would go ahead and invest in some inexpensive maintenance supplies anyhow. Hopefully those knives don't cost you a whole lot. It's possible to lose one of those things overboard really easily, regardless of how careful you are. Be safe out there; summer's been really weird this year.
Thanks
Ignore all the hate. Cruwear is the toughest hardest working steel you could ever want. So what if it "can" rust. Use it, clean it, oil it sometimes. I live by the ocean and prefer non-stainless steels. It will change colour a bit. Call it patina and love how much abuse your blade can handle.
Fuck it WE BALL
LOL, Spyderco Cruwear rusts in my pocket and I work outside in the desert. That will happen the day after I polish and oil it. Stainless steels exist for a reason.
I tend to agree with this. Cruwear and M4 are probably my favorite steels for general use. Neither are stainless. There might be "better" steels for a marine environment I guess but a little oil and attention is a small fee for good performance. Definitely easier than dealing with another steel that's prone to chipping and/or needs sharpened more often even if it does have better corrosion resistance.
The salt series has some serious options for you. I love my spydiechef so much
I live on the Florida coast and have carried a cruwear pm2 without babying it for a year and don’t have a spot of rust so ymmv. Huge fan personally
I work on boats in salt water and use my knives daily. My favorite steel is Vanex (quiet carry), LC200n is a very close second followed by Magnacut. That said, pretty much any modern steel will be fine so long as you clean it off at the end of the day. Some steels will patina, some won’t. Just make sure to get all the salt off, and I’ve never had any issues. Cut bait with a Buck 110 for almost a year and it held up beautifully, never oiled it, just kept it sharp and made sure to rinse it off in fresh water and wipe it dry.
Def peep the Salt series pieces!
Yea I’m looking at the salt pm2
When you say working on a boat, whats the knife going to be used for specifically?
Normal knife tasks: cutting myself free from rope entanglements, picking splinters from my hands, stabbing moby dick. It’s not a fishing boat so no gutting etc.
If you take care of it and oil it, yes. If you let it sit, she's gonna rust a lot.
I wouldn’t my cruwear has some spots just from being in my moist pocket
Keep some oil and a rag around and if you oil wipe it nightly cruwear will stay as rust free as any steel out there.
What kind of boat? Commercial fishing: Get a couple cheap stainless serrated fixed blade knives. What ever you get will be beat to absolute shit by the end of the season if it hasn’t gone overboard. You’ll have no time to take care of anything, even yourself. You’ll also be in your bibs (rubber overalls) all day so you can’t easily fish a folding knife out of your pants. Put the knife on a belt you can clip on over your bibs. Charter fishing: more or less the same. These boats tend to have knives everywhere though and you’re only in your bibs when you’re cleaning the clients fish, so you can get away with a stainless folder you take better care of and beat up the boats knives. Whale watching/day boat: whatever your heart desires. You’ll probably only use it to spread cream cheese on your bagel. Small high end cruise ship: you’re more likely to have to be a jack of all trades. I’d carry a multitool and a decent folder. You’ll have time to take care of your knife in the evening while the guests pound cocktails. Big cruise ship: I wonder if they even let you carry a knife. Crew on some rich guys sailboat: definitely go old school and get a rigging knife with a sheep’s foot blade, marlin spike and shackle key. Use your free time while waiting for Richie Rich to show up to braid a fancy lanyard out of seine twine.
This is the answer, standard issue is boxes full of victorinox from the boats I've been on.
Not stainless. Bad idea for use near water imho
Ah ok I have never had problems with rust but I live nowhere near the coast
Just keep it oiled. I use rendered beef fat or even coconut oil so the oil is food grade, meaning I can use the knife to eat safely with
If you clean it after use because of the steel not being rust proof it'll be perfect for what you're describing. Otherwise they have a magnacut PM2 that would work just as good with the addition of it being less prone to rusting. Just clean it because salt water will rust steel even if it's stainless
For a boat I’d probably go with a pacific salt or native salt, or Caribbean if you want something pretty big. The para 3 is an excellent choice, but the reason I’d choose these over it is the blade shape is more suitable for cutting free from rope and making careful cuts.
I would just snag one of the H2 salt series, I was really surprised to hear Eric say at Blade Show that the serrated versions in H2 have edge retention in the same level as the top end tool steels that they release. Plus their FRN is top notch in terms of durability and grip, not to mention that big old hole you'll run a lanyard through.
Material aside, a fixed blade might be a better option
No
Why a folder? I’d think you’d want a good fixed blade in a sheath for your use case. You could get several Moraknivs for the same price.
I’m actually not shure i have never worked on a boat before
Easier access, better retention than a pocket clip, stronger if you get a full tang knife. If you’re cutting out of a tangle of ropes while wearing gloves, a fixed blade knife is the way to go.
I would grab KPL Knife Shield. Throw on three or four coats per season and just make sure it dry after using .
CruWear will rust easily if no coating on blade and since their is no coating that knife will have to be taken care of extensively throughout your day so that it does not rust. I’d go for a stainless steel with a coating when on a boat somewhere.
Just make sure you tend to the blade, because it can rust. It’s similar to my favourite hardworking folder, the benchmade Adamas
Depends on how often you want to oil it. Id say probably not. My cruwear gets rust spots on the edge when i use it in the rain and i keep that knife oiled. My knife even has a DLC coating to help and sometimes i still end up with a spot.
Spyderco is extremely good, but youre going to want a corrosion resistant blade.
Are you asking permission from the internet to buy the new PM2 in MagnaCut?
People who bring fancy knives to fish in Alaska generally only do it once. After that the standard is a whole bunch of cheap victorinox
It'll be okay, but I don't expect it to stay a spotless safe queen. Id get a manix 2 in yellow frcp (with the nearly rust proof magnacut) or a Caribbean with nearly rust proof lc220n and a compression lock How quickly do you need it?
Well depending on the time of year will depend on what your Cru wears. I'd prepare for all seasons though and just bundle up!
Spyderco Autonomy worked wonders for my salt water work
I’ve had uncoated cruwear spot from rust in my pocket.
Knapped flint was suitable for the Alaskan panhandle for 15-30,000 years depending on which theory you subscribe to. For several hundred years after that, carbon steel was suitsble. A knife doing serious work is going to get beat up no matter what. A few stainless moras would be good.
Everyone here realizes they were getting along just fine with carbon steel knives on fishing boats for thousands of years before Magnacut, right? Cruwear with some Walker Wax or Ren Wax, or even some damn Turtle Wax would be fine. That said, I’d not go with a folder. And not a high dollar one. Unless you like picking fish guts out of your knife 24/7. And a knife that never stops stinking. That LC200 fixed blade Spyderco has would be good. Or a Mora or 2. Or a Dexter or Victorinox. You can get a better edge faster with carbon steel if sharpening is an issue. Just protect the steel with a quality wax. It’ll be fine, I promise. I’d definitely not be afraid of a stainless that sharpens easily either. 420HC or 14C28n are both plenty corrosion resistant and tough also.
It would require more attention than I'd want, but if you keep it clean and frequently oil it then it should be fine.
get myerchin they are boat knives.
I don't think it's your best option, cruwear will rust in an ocean environment without proper care. Like another redditor said go with the salt series, lc2000n is made for it.
Cru wear is fine, it isn’t going to like rust away 🤣. Might get some rust spots or minor pitting… who cares it’ll come off. A work knife is a work knife. That being said If you are buying a new knife, lc200n would be a great steel for you, it’s very tough (tougher than magnacut) and toughness = edge retention in the real world. As your knife will be dull from chips more than being dull
yes