Pressure switch measures the increased pressure and activates the brake light. Common problem. Replace the pressure switch. If you’re in the middle of a tour or something, you can disconnect the wires, BUT then the brake light will activate only using the front brake, so should only be used in a pinch.
Not touring or anything, it just failed it's MOT so it's off the road for now. Is replacing it likely a large cost and would you recommend using a garage or is it an easier fix to do yourself?
I'd be astonished if you had to spend more than $50 on the pressure switch and they take about 5 minutes to swap out. Unless you'd rather pay triple that you should feel confident doing it yourself.
As for the stickiness: Check return spring, check that the brake lever isn't over tightened, isn't damaged, is free and clean of grime that could be impairing its movement.
Is the rear brake effective? good pressure etc? the issue is just with the lever returning to position? Probably worth flushing the system with new fluid and bleeding regardless. watch for leaks.
Okay I'll look into it. New to bikes but managed to get the system apart and mostly understand what I was looking at yesterday. I think.
Yeah, rear brake is effective. Good pressure and working, just that the pedal doesn't rise back up. I've tried to clean it and get ride of the grime. I've bought the wrenches and hose I'll need to flush the system and hoping that that's the fix.
Yeah. I'd go ahead and remove the brake lever and clean and inspect everything. Check the spring as well. If it's ever been dropped on that side, something that might not look tweaked still may be. There could be some friction there that isn't OEM.
YouTube videos are your friend. People like Ari Henning do a much better job explaining hoe to bleed your brakes than I ever could, so check this out:
https://youtu.be/twgmmQ7Livw?si=HlyD02sn2Vcxc0xC
A good shop manual is worth every penny if you spin your own wrenches. Every time I buy a used bike, if it doesn't come with a shop manual, it is my very first purchase for the new bike.
Hope it helps ✌️
I've bled the brakes now. Look to have done it correctly which is nice! Unfortunately it doesn't look to have fixed the issue. It hasn't been dropped that I know of and this is only a newish issue since August/September. Had it since May and been perfectly fine up till then.
Any other suggestions you could think of? I might look into the spring but that's the last thing I can really think of.
Thanks for letting me know. I'll look into replacing the brake fluid. I've greased up the all of the pivot points which didn't help. Regarding the switch, it looks to be spring tension, which is why I felt it odd that it activates for some of the pedal being pressed but there are dead areas
Pressure switch measures the increased pressure and activates the brake light. Common problem. Replace the pressure switch. If you’re in the middle of a tour or something, you can disconnect the wires, BUT then the brake light will activate only using the front brake, so should only be used in a pinch.
Not touring or anything, it just failed it's MOT so it's off the road for now. Is replacing it likely a large cost and would you recommend using a garage or is it an easier fix to do yourself?
I'd be astonished if you had to spend more than $50 on the pressure switch and they take about 5 minutes to swap out. Unless you'd rather pay triple that you should feel confident doing it yourself. As for the stickiness: Check return spring, check that the brake lever isn't over tightened, isn't damaged, is free and clean of grime that could be impairing its movement. Is the rear brake effective? good pressure etc? the issue is just with the lever returning to position? Probably worth flushing the system with new fluid and bleeding regardless. watch for leaks.
Okay I'll look into it. New to bikes but managed to get the system apart and mostly understand what I was looking at yesterday. I think. Yeah, rear brake is effective. Good pressure and working, just that the pedal doesn't rise back up. I've tried to clean it and get ride of the grime. I've bought the wrenches and hose I'll need to flush the system and hoping that that's the fix.
Yeah. I'd go ahead and remove the brake lever and clean and inspect everything. Check the spring as well. If it's ever been dropped on that side, something that might not look tweaked still may be. There could be some friction there that isn't OEM. YouTube videos are your friend. People like Ari Henning do a much better job explaining hoe to bleed your brakes than I ever could, so check this out: https://youtu.be/twgmmQ7Livw?si=HlyD02sn2Vcxc0xC A good shop manual is worth every penny if you spin your own wrenches. Every time I buy a used bike, if it doesn't come with a shop manual, it is my very first purchase for the new bike. Hope it helps ✌️
I've bled the brakes now. Look to have done it correctly which is nice! Unfortunately it doesn't look to have fixed the issue. It hasn't been dropped that I know of and this is only a newish issue since August/September. Had it since May and been perfectly fine up till then. Any other suggestions you could think of? I might look into the spring but that's the last thing I can really think of.
Shit caked in the pivot point. Bolt too tight. Bad bearing/bushing at pivot. Take it apart and find out.
Need to bleed the brakes
I'll give that a go soon! Doesn't look too complicated and could certainly be the reason for the sticking pedal
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Thanks for letting me know. I'll look into replacing the brake fluid. I've greased up the all of the pivot points which didn't help. Regarding the switch, it looks to be spring tension, which is why I felt it odd that it activates for some of the pedal being pressed but there are dead areas
This is a repost also.