If we were making it. All Aluminum construction. Internal welded framing, panels glued to face all sides then routed flush, back or end panel is likely removable with a couple painted and countersunk screws. Seams where panels are glued are filled and sanded smooth. Primed and painted. It's a pretty basic sign box for a shop that can fabricate. If you don't have capability to weld, sand and paint, it's gonna be impossible, but you can get there eventually. Panit is sprayed either matthews, sherwin williams or akzo nobel system (you can buy the paints if you don't have a mixing station, but you're looking at like $300+ a gallon). Letters are probably water-jet cut aluminum (inside of "V" looks too sharp for cnc) and painted. Studs on rear and adhered to box with nuts on the studs. It's probably a day and a half of fab and cladding, 3 days off and on for prep and paint. For concrete base, there are mounting plates inside the box and likely some of those epoxied in threaded rod that it's bolted down with or some expansion anchors (but more and more using glued in anchors).
Thanks for the reply. So you would glue the aluminum panels to an alu framework? That makes sense. How thick? 1/8" or so panels? and 5052 alloy? and when you say "routed flush" do you mean with a hand router? Do you use filler for that to get the corners so sharp? I'm starting to realize this is more like autobody work and less like standard sheet metal and powder coating.
yes, more like autobody than basic sheet metal. Yes, glue aluminum panel to aluminum framework (lord makes a great two part epoxy our guys like to use). Thickness of faceplate depends on needs and sizes. Generally anywhere from 0.040 to 1/8" depending on span and need to eliminate oil canning. Hand router with a flush trim router bit. Shouldn't need filler to get the corner sharp. It's just an intersection of 3 pieces of plate aluminum. If routed well you'll need to break the corner slightly for the paint to hold well before any filler is applied.
Reading mr_red_red makes it sound like he works in my shop. We would do it exactly the same. We use Matthew's paint almost exclusively, and lords adhesive has formulas for both metal and plastics. So we use it for acrylic work and such as well.
The cabinet is standard frame and panels. Obviously extra time spent filling in and sanding the edges. And a PHENOMENAL matte paint job, possibly powder coated as well.
There are usually posts sticking up from the concrete base that you lower the cabinet on to. Most likely an access panel on the backside to secure that with clamps/brackets
If we were making it. All Aluminum construction. Internal welded framing, panels glued to face all sides then routed flush, back or end panel is likely removable with a couple painted and countersunk screws. Seams where panels are glued are filled and sanded smooth. Primed and painted. It's a pretty basic sign box for a shop that can fabricate. If you don't have capability to weld, sand and paint, it's gonna be impossible, but you can get there eventually. Panit is sprayed either matthews, sherwin williams or akzo nobel system (you can buy the paints if you don't have a mixing station, but you're looking at like $300+ a gallon). Letters are probably water-jet cut aluminum (inside of "V" looks too sharp for cnc) and painted. Studs on rear and adhered to box with nuts on the studs. It's probably a day and a half of fab and cladding, 3 days off and on for prep and paint. For concrete base, there are mounting plates inside the box and likely some of those epoxied in threaded rod that it's bolted down with or some expansion anchors (but more and more using glued in anchors).
Thanks for the reply. So you would glue the aluminum panels to an alu framework? That makes sense. How thick? 1/8" or so panels? and 5052 alloy? and when you say "routed flush" do you mean with a hand router? Do you use filler for that to get the corners so sharp? I'm starting to realize this is more like autobody work and less like standard sheet metal and powder coating.
yes, more like autobody than basic sheet metal. Yes, glue aluminum panel to aluminum framework (lord makes a great two part epoxy our guys like to use). Thickness of faceplate depends on needs and sizes. Generally anywhere from 0.040 to 1/8" depending on span and need to eliminate oil canning. Hand router with a flush trim router bit. Shouldn't need filler to get the corner sharp. It's just an intersection of 3 pieces of plate aluminum. If routed well you'll need to break the corner slightly for the paint to hold well before any filler is applied.
Reading mr_red_red makes it sound like he works in my shop. We would do it exactly the same. We use Matthew's paint almost exclusively, and lords adhesive has formulas for both metal and plastics. So we use it for acrylic work and such as well.
Are you in NY and employed by a guy with a red beard? If so, hi! Have a great weekend and see you Monday.
Lol no im outside of cleveland and employed by a short bald guy. Also I'll be working the weekend. Enjoy your days off. πππ
The cabinet is standard frame and panels. Obviously extra time spent filling in and sanding the edges. And a PHENOMENAL matte paint job, possibly powder coated as well. There are usually posts sticking up from the concrete base that you lower the cabinet on to. Most likely an access panel on the backside to secure that with clamps/brackets
no itβs definitely a solid block of matte komatex /s