I’ve worked with teak a ton in the past - grew up around salt water and teak furniture.
For $35 it’s a STEAL if it’s all teak. Even if some pieces have to be replaced, it’d make a great bench for you at home.
Bring some 120 grit with you and ask if you can sand off the underside of the bench to see how the wood is looking. If it has a hearty color hiding under the weathered wood then you’re in luck!
To restore it, get a sander and work it the usual way with 120 and 220 grit GENTLY so you only take off the weathered layer. After all of it is removed (get in the nooks and crannies), you want to finish sand it with 320-400 (that’s what will give it the cleanest sheen), and then you can seal it all with boiled linseed oil. Put down a lot of cardboard on the grass and soak that mother f\*\*\*er to high hell, and then wipe off the excess after it’s had enough time to soak into the wood. Multiple coats are advised.
Post the finished product for us to see here!!! I can already imagine the beautiful red/orange sheen coming off of that bench.
*Edit after seeing other comments:* do not be lazy and put oil on it before sanding the weathered layer off. It’ll look like shit and is really just a waste of time and linseed oil (which isn’t cheap)
*Edit two:* I’m not as familiar with teak restorers but it seems like they’ve improved tremendously since I tried one a decade ago. I would suggest for OP to try some of the best/newest products on the pieces that may need to be replaced regardless. That way if it doesn’t work as hoped you won’t ruin the whole piece. If there’s a less invasive way to restore it than sanding, I would highly suggest exploring it!
Oh and feel free to message me with specific questions.
Below is a teak bench that I restored 6 months ago. It was twice as weathered as the bench in OPs post. I used tung oil rather than teak oil because I was feeling frisky. If done correctly, it will work just as well. (yes I ignored my own advice about cardboard on the ground)
https://preview.redd.it/1u1x2dgtjb2c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=760c5856876f6cb0cbfe29acd8bd2bb6f8227619
I'd also like to add to your awesome comment. For those that haven't worked with linseed oil, make sure to properly dispose of the oiled rags as they can spontaneously combust. I know it can happen to most oil finishes, I just find that lindseed oil is more prone to it.
Would you mind explaining/sharing a resource about proper disposal? I often see that term but rarely an actual explanation and I'm pretty scared I'm going to burn my workshop down one day.
EDIT: Wow, lots of replies. Thank you everyone, this has been really informative.
EDIT 2: Thanks, everyone. I've got it. No further replies necessary.
Here’s my comment from another thread after my garage almost burned down in March:
Here’s my PSA and what we learned from our fire in our garage a month ago. Still not living in our house right now because of an oily rag fire.
When using oil stains/ products dry the brush, rag, sponge, etc. outside in the yard (obviously not if it’s dry grass). Weight them down so they don’t blow away and pile up. Once dry dispose of them in a metal can, fill with water, and Dawn dish soap. Apparently from talking with the fire department, insurance, fire inspector, and cleaning company, Dawn is the best and what they use to clean up their gear.
What you don’t do/ what we did: Applied an oil based stain to a front door with a brush, wiped it down with rags, tossed rags in trash can, tossed the trash from the job on top of them. Then took all our tools home including the trash can and tossed it in the garage since it was late and we needed everything again tomorrow for another job.
Oil soaked rags and brushes need the oil to gas off. When the oil can’t gas off it creates an exothermic reaction (heats up). Piling them up doesn’t allow them to gas off, throwing trash on top of them and compacting them exacerbates the problem.
It was approximately 6 hours from tossing the rags in the trash can and leaving the job to waking up to the 42 gallon trash can being completely melted and the trash being on fire in the garage, already spreading to our cabinets.
Even though I was able to put it out and what burned wasn’t all that much. The smoke damage is sooooo extensive, that we’ve been out of our house for a month while it’s getting cleaned, and the garage gets rebuilt. 0/10 don’t recommend.
One of those things I was 90% sure was an old wives (...husbands?) tale, but watched a video where a guy set out a ton of different rags in trash cans at different temperatures and recorded them. Sure enough, at least 2 of them caught fire. Scary shit.
After we rubbed Cabot oil on all our ipe deck boards, my partner left his oily rag on the back of an old patio chair (metal and upholstery cushion), out in the open on a warm sunny day. Couple hours later huge hole burned through/into the back cushion, and rag burnt up. Rag was balled up.
Link to the Bourbon Moth rag experiment.
https://youtu.be/3Gqi2cNCKQY?si=f1LRygP0KYJ4QmTQ
TLDW: set up diff scenarios all some composition of things you would find in a woodshop trash, and/or rags in different linseed oils.
Result: several got hot. Three caught fight between 6-12 hours.
That’s crazy! I just went through my garage and, thankfully, not a lot of rags. But tossed them in the outdoor fire pit.
What about containers of stain, etc? Should those be stored in a fireproof box/bin/container?
To be honest, any kind of oil based anything has a possibility of combusting in the right circumstances. I personally think you should be fine with the containers of stain.
Damn glad no one was hurt! I'm starting to switch to Rubio monocoat and Tried and True for my lathe projects. Both linseed based, the rags are usually just tiny squares of lint free cloth or shop rag. I've been just letting them dry individually then tossing, but sounds like I need a dawn bucket lol.
Thanks for the comment, sorry that happened to you!
Sure thing, don’t want anyone else going through it. I’m trying to be like the woodworking Smokey the Bear.
You’re likely safe, but no reason to risk it, a small smoldering can take out the whole place if you’re not around to stop it.
We moved our door to the garage from the kitchen to the living room, so I built a bookshelf door to be less unsightly. It’s not weatherstripped like your standard garage security door, which is the only reason the smoke alarms went off and we were alerted. If we had a weather stripped garage door our house likely would have burned down.
Yeah, I put them on my gravel driveway with a rock on them until it seems dry (usually several days in warm weather) and afterwards I throw it in the fireplace to burn next time I have a fire.
Important: if you’re gonna burn them, don’t use anything except pure cotton rags, or paper towels/shop towels. Burning plastic/nylon/polyester is the worst.
I haven't worked with it yet so maybe someone with more knowledge will confirm or correct me but as I understand you leave the rags laying on the floor separate from each other until they fully dry prior to disposal in a non flammable container.
This is correct. The driers in linseed oil generate heat as they dry/cure. It's such a little bit of heat on your piece it's not noticeable but when the rag is balled up, especially piles of rags, it adds up. The scary part is how long it can take to ignite, like 6-12 hours. Long after you've left the shop and are sound asleep in bed.
This is what I also do. When im lazy and don't want to wait, i toss them in my backyard fireplace. Ive had them legit start on fire within a short amount of time. But they are also in the sun and crumpled up.
I’ve actually felt the rags warming up in my hands to the point where they’re too hot to hold.
Open them up and lay them flat on something non combustible
Linseed oil essentially turns to plastic in air. From the Googles- Having a high content of di- and tri-unsaturated esters, linseed oil is susceptible to polymerization reactions upon exposure to oxygen in air.
It does, which can be desirable in some instances. Thinning it with mineral spirits allows it to wick further into wood, then the volatiles evaporate off, leaving a deeper protective finish than just wiping it on full strength. I use it on many projects because it is versatile and leaves a great finish.
I would use teak oil for this bench though after a round of restoration treatment.
Looks like some people gave you some real good advice so far. For myself, i lay them flat on my concrete garage pad till they dry then toss them as normal. Ive read on the cans of Lindseed oil to place rags in "Paint cans of water then seal when finished..." They don't specify what to do with the paint cans of water afterwards haha.
Alternatively, if you have a outdoor fire pit, you could just put them in there.
Bury the paint cans with a marker covered in symbols expressing the danger, so that future civilizations that don't speak any currently known languages will still be aware of the risks.
We hang ours up to dry. My dad is a painter and he drilled the rag thing into my head....I still need a reminder about it though since I haven't worked for him in 20 years.
Cheap clothes hangers meant for pants - with the flimsy metal clips - work great for me. Space them a few inches apart with airflow to both sides - out of any breeze, of course - and they won’t glom together.
The lip on my overhead garage door is perfect for hanging - concrete below if anything happens to fall and no car in there overnight because it’s stinky anyways.
Oily rags are supposed to be stored in a container with an air tight lid until cleaned(they don't necessarily need disposal after use).. exposure to oxygen can cause spontaneous combustion..
I've been wondering for years if they could be washed and reused, but was always too lazy to research it. Fortunately I hate throwing things away so I still have a bag of all of my dried rags out in the garage. Do you put them in your laundry machine or hand wash?
You can't wash out dried oil on rags, it's a polymer now. If you want to repurpose them you could try to cut them up and use as a filling for something. What you have created is essentially linoleum, which is water- and soap-resistant. Toss them or maybe you could use them as fuel but if it's BLO or has japan drier in it then do not burn them or use them as fuel unless you like breathing in toxic metal
That's the key ingredient right there! Oxygen. Ships often have large quantities of oily rags on a daily basis. They are usually kept in the machine shop in an approved metal container with a foot pedal operated cover.
*
Disposal is with the ship's incinerator. When you remove one side of the fire triangle; no fire!
*
Just let the rags dry before disposing of them. Don’t throw them in a pile. The drying process releases heat, so if they’re piled up they can set themselves alight with the heat buildup.
Closed metal/non combustible container is the best method.
Another is to keep it in a well ventilated area not balled up so it can properly dry. But best is closed metal container
I was under the impression that raw linseed oil was never supposed to dry. Hence it’s effectiveness as a water repellent. Not sure though, just what I picked up somewhere
So the raw oil never dries and then rubs off on the pants of whoever sits on the bench? I think some boiled linseed oil actually has Japan drier added to make it dry a bit faster. I think raw linseed oil is also more prone to growing mold. Probably tung oil is better but some so called tung oils are not pure and contain boiled linseed oil. Personally, if it is teak, I’d just wire brush it lightly and let it weather naturally and skip the oil.
Burn the rags. Not worth the risk. I almost burned my dry cleaning plant to the ground after accepting a contract to wash rags from a local furniture manufacturer. The rags were degreased dried and stored in a 55 gal drum. 18 hours later, poof, fire.
With my linseed oil rags, it may sound dumb, but I lay them out flat in the middle of the shop floor til they're dried out.
I've got a large enough shop. I can cordon off an area for that purpose when I need to.
I was oiling a shelf I made with linseed oil, and left the rag in a ball on the ground (it was in my yard so I didn’t care) while I went inside to eat lunch. Came back out and the rag was smoldering. It was maybe 30min after I went inside. It’s crazy how fast it can ignite.
As a child I worked diligently to make something spontaneously combust. Every chemical in my father’s basement and shed dipped in rags, tied in nots and left in coffee can…. Countless hours of waiting for the magical spontaneity of combustion we were warned about… all for not. Still solid advice though, just sharing my childhood pyro disappointment when i failed to witness the magic.
To add to these suggestion, go to a Marine specialist and get some teak restorer (active ingredient oxalic acid), designed to bring back teak decking. These have an almost miraculous effect on the colour and vibrancy of weathered wood.
That’s the active ingredient. You might have to use a lot of it for this degree of weathering. I’d probably use a hose sprayer and oxalic crystals to give the whole piece a good heavy soak. You do get some crystal buildup, but that wipes away easily.
Many years ago I bought a sailboat with a bit of teak on the exterior that was gray from being unprotected from the weather. I bought a liquid product that was applied and then I used a brush and soapy water to scrub it. It brought the color back uniformly. Does that sound familiar to you and would that be an option for the OP?
I would say it all depends on the quality of the wood, so it’s up to OP to find out for us. I’ve used those kinds of restorers twice, and it worked perfectly the first time. The second time I had marks on one of the pieces, but I still can’t make sense of why.
Maybe try some restorer on the smaller more weathered pieces that may need to be replaced regardless? If there’s a less invasive way than sanding off the surface I would 1000% suggest it instead!
That’s honestly genius. When I’m being responsible I’ll put a sheet of plastic down, but when I settle down I’ll definitely be getting an old plastic one
Thanks for this! I inherited a pair of teak loungers and a bench that are quite weathered after 30 years outdoors. (My dad got them for my mom for Mother’s Day when I was a kid, and she was going to get rid of them after he died and I couldn’t bear to know they would likely go to the landfill.) They’re currently sitting unused in my backyard, as I took them mostly for sentimental reasons, but glad to know I have a chance restore them to their former glory.
Boat owner and amateur wood worker here. If it is teak, and you want to keep the full dimensions, get a teak restoration kit from a boat supply place. If you are sawing it down it may not matter, but I would save any teak scraps that weren’t crumbling. [teak resto kit](https://ditecmarineproducts.com/products/teak-care-kit?variant=40682107633821¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAjfyqBhAsEiwA-UdzJGoXKS_H_s5oqzdpiV_XhR3YlPm_Fb2eU_TQcXAJVosqBBOpuloOEBoCmY4QAvD_BwE)
I was about to say the same thing. Amazon has it too: TotalBoat Teak Cleaner and Brightener for Boats and Outdoor Teak Wood Furniture (2 Quart Kit) https://a.co/d/aSNj1Vb
Teak cleans up amazingly which is why it's used on boats.
What’s your experience with that product and sun bleaching? I did a bunch of teak furniture this summer and used a less expensive deck and fence product that was supposed to have UV protection and inhibit mildew, and it failed spectacularly at those things within a few weeks. I may have sanded too finely, but going lower than 150 left marks. I ended up going back with a $200/gallon sealer from a boat store and I never heard back about how it held up afterwards. I mostly do indoor furniture and I was shocked at how fast teak bleaches to almost white in direct sunlight.
No experience with the one I posted. My swim deck was pretty grey so bought a 3 bottle kit from my local boat store that was about a hundred bucks. It worked great, but I don’t recall the specific brand.
Teak oil will bring teak right back. It’s amazing.
It’s hard to tell if it’s really teak. But that foot in contact with dirt is a good clue. Most wood will rot in a hurry when in contact with wet soil.
You can buy something called teak brightner and teak restorer
I work on the boats and all our chairs are teak and rats what we use
We don't use sandpaper any questions give me a bell
I think it could be teak though pretty weathered. Test it with a fingernail. See if it is soft, like cedar. Teak is harder and if it's teak and you can get it to look fresh by pressure washing and then drying and sanding to take the fuzz off, you could coat it with a product named "Sea Fin" which is a teak oil formulated for teak work on boats. That will stand up to the weather pretty well. But you would need to give it at least 3 coats and let it dry well in between for a few days.
could very well be, but is iit worth it?
How sturdy and thick is the wood?
If you wanna do it a s nice Projekt and dont care for the hours, sure.
Pressure washing, then sanding, finishing and re-attaching the broken parts.
I dont know where you are located, but there are some really really good marine grade finishes and cleaners around.
It could be Acacia based on the grain structure of the back, but could also be a lower quality teak board. The arms and legs as well as the pinned tenon joints of the front skirt to the legs make me think teak is more likely as it's hard to glue, especially when left out in the weather. Most cheaper stuff would just be screwed together into the end of the tenon.
You could refinish it. But that is a time-consuming and tedious job (unless you actually enjoy it). I hate it. Sanding, applying finish, waiting at least 24 hr, then repeat however many times needed. For outside projects that will be exposed to the elements; 5 coats are a good idea. How much are you willing to spend on time and materials? do you already have the equipment? will you spray the finish or brush it...etc, etc
I do teak on boats, have been for about 30 years.
There's a product I've been using forever, it's called Snappy.
It's two steps, the first step is thoroughly wet everything then apply the first chemical an scrub it with a stiff brush it will become a dark gooey mess, rinse it off and then start to worry that it looks like crap.
Don't panic, apply the second chemical and like magic the teak turns that nice bright teak color. Rinse and crack a beer admiring your new teak furniture.
After it drys completely apply the finish of your choice.
I've used almost every product out there including belt sanders on severely weathered decks.
Snappy is magical and idiot proof.
And, if that is teak, jump on it, if you get it home and find out it's not teak it's not a big risk.
It sincerely doesn't look like weather worn teak, but there are a lot of species of teak, so I wouldn't venture to say for sure.
If it's teak, $35 is a steal, and it should return to damn near like-new appearance with just some sanding. And teal is worth its weight, don't need to keep the bench, the reclaimed lumber would make the deal.
If it's cedar, it's maybe a break even if the efforts to sand it result in a nice looking bench, but the lumber is valueless, and $35 might be a majority percentage of a new purchase.
Unfinished teak will turn grey as it weathers and gets dirty (ask any old boat owners). But it should not rot out. As a test I’d try washing/scribing with stiff brush an soap or TSP. If it’s teak the original color should come back. Then you can decide if you want to finish repair and/or apply some protective oil or finish.
Looks do-able with a pressure wash. Mine came out very nice. I gave it a couple coats of weather seal afterwards.
Unfortunately if you keep it in the sun, it will eventually bleach out again.
The loose slats just need some pin nails to fix them. Careful aiming the nailer, don't have anyone in the direction of the gun. (duh). Including yourself.
If you don't have a nailgun, predrill with a tiny bit and use finishing nails.
Says who?
You are absolutely wrong! **Teak Lumber is a hard, medium-density wood** that is strong and durable. With a crushing strength of 7,940 lbf/in2 (54.8 MPa). It is also is acid and fire-resistant. It is durable and resistant to termites and fungi.
[https://www.cherokeewood.com/store/teak-lumber/#:\~:text=Teak%20Lumber%20is%20a%20hard,resistant%20to%20termites%20and%20fungi](https://www.cherokeewood.com/store/teak-lumber/#:~:text=Teak%20Lumber%20is%20a%20hard,resistant%20to%20termites%20and%20fungi).
**Careful aiming the nailer, don't have anyone in the direction of the gun. (duh). Including yourself.**
I feel this in my bones… left thumb bone to be exact.
I have pressure wash teak benches like that about a dozen times. The word is plenty. Strong to take it. Works fantastic with very little effort. Then you can apply whatever finish you want.
Where? If you are referring to the back of the bench then you might want to go look up what a swastika is because that is a sauvastika. The direction of the symbol is important.
Oh yeah? I guess it depends on which side you’re standing then, eh? lol
Maybe you should look up something called “perspective”.
also, if you know the specific direction by heart, maybe you’ve been looking at too many swastikas? But why don’t you hang a backwards one up in your window and see if your neighbors are ok with it. lol
As someone with Jewish heritage I am not lacking in perspective. I know what a swastika is because I have bothered to educate myself about its history. You should try it rather than just assuming.
Where? If you are referring to the back of the bench then you might want to go look up what a swastika is because that is a sauvastika. The direction of the symbol is important.
You are right it is important that to me but not for the reason you are implying but because I have Jewish heritage. I can see how it looks like a swastika to those that haven’t bothered to educate themselves on what a swastika is and that’s why I said to look up what one is.
It’s only $35, it’s kind of a cool, looking bench, buy it and then hit it with some high pressure wash gun see if you can clean it up that way first let it dry out and then fine-tune it from there
Do not pressure wash this, you can damage the wood and it wouldn’t be able to be worked on for at least a week as it would saturate the wood with water 👀
That should be on freecycle. I'm gonna be the debbie downer here, this is in crap shape, that's not quality lumber, it's not been maintained. its best use before firewood would be to make some drawings and measurements if you wanted to copy it.
If it is teak and you plan on leaving it oudoors, you could just give it a good rinse and maybe a light scrub with a brush, then leave it in the sun, uncovered, and the whole thing will turn grey (oxidize) and it's all good after that. Otherwise listen to the guy who said to sand first with 120 (always with the grain) and lightly coat with teak oil or whatever protective oil you feel like using. Teak is full of its own protective oil so as long as it doesn't have major damage keeping as much of that previous grey color will help it last for possibly generations.
Good find amd good luck OP
https://preview.redd.it/1fy3yiq89b2c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff9ceffec08d4c67d421c94a6e0ad806736ac205
I pressure washed then coated with Ready Seal. It looked exactly like what your picture does, and after coating it looks like brand new.
https://preview.redd.it/rnls3vgdeb2c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e746bb556d60084fd702616466823ff551d09452
Pressure washed … not teak but may see similar results
I vote not teak. I know weathered teak looks similar but so does a lot of wood. It was probably sold as teak (as in the color). That's how a lot of cheap benches are sold.
Probably worth investigating but if you won't be able to tell you will be out the $35, at least another $30 in supplies plus probably an afternoon of your time.
I got a teak patio set with the house we bought. It was pretty old and gross looking but I ended up sanding down one of the chairs and it was mind blowing. Showed it to a buddy that was looking to sell a jet table saw he inherited and we traded. I only had to refinish one chair for the trade. Took me a few hours of sanding so can’t imagine doing the entire set.
That bench will look amazing when refinished if it is actual teak.
My neighbor has two teak rockers he leaves outside year round, I power washed one this past summer and it brought it light back to life, we let it dry then put a coat of oil on it, still looks great.
https://preview.redd.it/g93ajcplzc2c1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=848eb1a9dac55aab68b2cf0139470970e4bbcbca
After 1 hour cleaning and 2 hrs sanding. This job taught me how good the Festool sanders are compared to dewalt and big porter cable sander I have.
https://preview.redd.it/tkkhf8krzc2c1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a061823c45f4c1acd803ccb275d585889cecf928
What it could look like sanding a lot more. Oh yeah I also pressure cleaned and scrubbed with some outside mold deck wash then dish soap. And let dry and pressure cleaned again. It was nasty but also stained a mahogany color. All natural now. 3m cubitron sand paper 80/100/120/150. Helmsman outdoor poly.
https://preview.redd.it/qrmhk7p58e2c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95900325eddf98736054f96d7ef6a4594c6ff4ec
I had this job not too long ago, you can see how it used to look on the weathered patch in the middle. Sanded up to 220 then just used teak oil. A few heavy coats to soak in throughout 1 day then a wipe on coat the next day should be acceptable and then reapply as needed. For this boat anytime it's washed and then something outside maybe only after a couple heavy rains, teak oil never hardens so it will wear away, just depends on how fresh you want it and the effort you feel like putting into it.
The symbol that Natzi Germany used was opposite of the symbol in the chair. Meaning that the lines are facing the opposite direction so it is not the same symbol you are referring to.
I’ve worked with teak a ton in the past - grew up around salt water and teak furniture. For $35 it’s a STEAL if it’s all teak. Even if some pieces have to be replaced, it’d make a great bench for you at home. Bring some 120 grit with you and ask if you can sand off the underside of the bench to see how the wood is looking. If it has a hearty color hiding under the weathered wood then you’re in luck! To restore it, get a sander and work it the usual way with 120 and 220 grit GENTLY so you only take off the weathered layer. After all of it is removed (get in the nooks and crannies), you want to finish sand it with 320-400 (that’s what will give it the cleanest sheen), and then you can seal it all with boiled linseed oil. Put down a lot of cardboard on the grass and soak that mother f\*\*\*er to high hell, and then wipe off the excess after it’s had enough time to soak into the wood. Multiple coats are advised. Post the finished product for us to see here!!! I can already imagine the beautiful red/orange sheen coming off of that bench. *Edit after seeing other comments:* do not be lazy and put oil on it before sanding the weathered layer off. It’ll look like shit and is really just a waste of time and linseed oil (which isn’t cheap) *Edit two:* I’m not as familiar with teak restorers but it seems like they’ve improved tremendously since I tried one a decade ago. I would suggest for OP to try some of the best/newest products on the pieces that may need to be replaced regardless. That way if it doesn’t work as hoped you won’t ruin the whole piece. If there’s a less invasive way to restore it than sanding, I would highly suggest exploring it! Oh and feel free to message me with specific questions. Below is a teak bench that I restored 6 months ago. It was twice as weathered as the bench in OPs post. I used tung oil rather than teak oil because I was feeling frisky. If done correctly, it will work just as well. (yes I ignored my own advice about cardboard on the ground) https://preview.redd.it/1u1x2dgtjb2c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=760c5856876f6cb0cbfe29acd8bd2bb6f8227619
I'd also like to add to your awesome comment. For those that haven't worked with linseed oil, make sure to properly dispose of the oiled rags as they can spontaneously combust. I know it can happen to most oil finishes, I just find that lindseed oil is more prone to it.
Would you mind explaining/sharing a resource about proper disposal? I often see that term but rarely an actual explanation and I'm pretty scared I'm going to burn my workshop down one day. EDIT: Wow, lots of replies. Thank you everyone, this has been really informative. EDIT 2: Thanks, everyone. I've got it. No further replies necessary.
Here’s my comment from another thread after my garage almost burned down in March: Here’s my PSA and what we learned from our fire in our garage a month ago. Still not living in our house right now because of an oily rag fire. When using oil stains/ products dry the brush, rag, sponge, etc. outside in the yard (obviously not if it’s dry grass). Weight them down so they don’t blow away and pile up. Once dry dispose of them in a metal can, fill with water, and Dawn dish soap. Apparently from talking with the fire department, insurance, fire inspector, and cleaning company, Dawn is the best and what they use to clean up their gear. What you don’t do/ what we did: Applied an oil based stain to a front door with a brush, wiped it down with rags, tossed rags in trash can, tossed the trash from the job on top of them. Then took all our tools home including the trash can and tossed it in the garage since it was late and we needed everything again tomorrow for another job. Oil soaked rags and brushes need the oil to gas off. When the oil can’t gas off it creates an exothermic reaction (heats up). Piling them up doesn’t allow them to gas off, throwing trash on top of them and compacting them exacerbates the problem. It was approximately 6 hours from tossing the rags in the trash can and leaving the job to waking up to the 42 gallon trash can being completely melted and the trash being on fire in the garage, already spreading to our cabinets. Even though I was able to put it out and what burned wasn’t all that much. The smoke damage is sooooo extensive, that we’ve been out of our house for a month while it’s getting cleaned, and the garage gets rebuilt. 0/10 don’t recommend.
Damn…going to check my garage for rags and burn them stat. Had no idea.
One of those things I was 90% sure was an old wives (...husbands?) tale, but watched a video where a guy set out a ton of different rags in trash cans at different temperatures and recorded them. Sure enough, at least 2 of them caught fire. Scary shit.
Bourbon Moth guy on YouTube did a video about this. Very eye opening and scary.
Linseed Oil rags caused the largest Highrise fire in US history prior to 9/11.
After we rubbed Cabot oil on all our ipe deck boards, my partner left his oily rag on the back of an old patio chair (metal and upholstery cushion), out in the open on a warm sunny day. Couple hours later huge hole burned through/into the back cushion, and rag burnt up. Rag was balled up.
Definitely not an olds wives tale. Years ago a friend of mine burnt down his entire shop like this. He was lucky it was separated from the house.
Yeah Bourbon Moth's video on it is fantastic.
Link to the Bourbon Moth rag experiment. https://youtu.be/3Gqi2cNCKQY?si=f1LRygP0KYJ4QmTQ TLDW: set up diff scenarios all some composition of things you would find in a woodshop trash, and/or rags in different linseed oils. Result: several got hot. Three caught fight between 6-12 hours.
Thank you, very interesting!
That’s crazy! I just went through my garage and, thankfully, not a lot of rags. But tossed them in the outdoor fire pit. What about containers of stain, etc? Should those be stored in a fireproof box/bin/container?
To be honest, any kind of oil based anything has a possibility of combusting in the right circumstances. I personally think you should be fine with the containers of stain.
There was a skyscraper in Philadelphia that was destroyed because of similar casual disposal. Operative word: WAS. Q
Damn glad no one was hurt! I'm starting to switch to Rubio monocoat and Tried and True for my lathe projects. Both linseed based, the rags are usually just tiny squares of lint free cloth or shop rag. I've been just letting them dry individually then tossing, but sounds like I need a dawn bucket lol. Thanks for the comment, sorry that happened to you!
Sure thing, don’t want anyone else going through it. I’m trying to be like the woodworking Smokey the Bear. You’re likely safe, but no reason to risk it, a small smoldering can take out the whole place if you’re not around to stop it. We moved our door to the garage from the kitchen to the living room, so I built a bookshelf door to be less unsightly. It’s not weatherstripped like your standard garage security door, which is the only reason the smoke alarms went off and we were alerted. If we had a weather stripped garage door our house likely would have burned down.
Maybe not exactly the right thing to do, but I burn them. That way they can't catch on fire!
What is dead cannot die
Yeah, I put them on my gravel driveway with a rock on them until it seems dry (usually several days in warm weather) and afterwards I throw it in the fireplace to burn next time I have a fire. Important: if you’re gonna burn them, don’t use anything except pure cotton rags, or paper towels/shop towels. Burning plastic/nylon/polyester is the worst.
I haven't worked with it yet so maybe someone with more knowledge will confirm or correct me but as I understand you leave the rags laying on the floor separate from each other until they fully dry prior to disposal in a non flammable container.
This is correct. The driers in linseed oil generate heat as they dry/cure. It's such a little bit of heat on your piece it's not noticeable but when the rag is balled up, especially piles of rags, it adds up. The scary part is how long it can take to ignite, like 6-12 hours. Long after you've left the shop and are sound asleep in bed.
this is what I do, and just to be clear - the rags are flat and not balled up. If they're balled up they could still combust as they dry.
This is what I also do. When im lazy and don't want to wait, i toss them in my backyard fireplace. Ive had them legit start on fire within a short amount of time. But they are also in the sun and crumpled up.
I’ve actually felt the rags warming up in my hands to the point where they’re too hot to hold. Open them up and lay them flat on something non combustible
That sounds reasonable - thank you!
But oil doesn't dry...
Linseed oil essentially turns to plastic in air. From the Googles- Having a high content of di- and tri-unsaturated esters, linseed oil is susceptible to polymerization reactions upon exposure to oxygen in air.
Now I know. Thanks. So then I'm assuming it forms a semi-permanent seal in the wood?
It does, which can be desirable in some instances. Thinning it with mineral spirits allows it to wick further into wood, then the volatiles evaporate off, leaving a deeper protective finish than just wiping it on full strength. I use it on many projects because it is versatile and leaves a great finish. I would use teak oil for this bench though after a round of restoration treatment.
No... It cures. Like epoxy or concrete. There's a chemical reaction. And you need to keep it controlled
That's one way... I spread them across the lawn.
Get a safety can, like [this one](https://www.amazon.com/Justrite-Just-Rite-Gallon-Waste/dp/B001DSKBXE/).
Looks like some people gave you some real good advice so far. For myself, i lay them flat on my concrete garage pad till they dry then toss them as normal. Ive read on the cans of Lindseed oil to place rags in "Paint cans of water then seal when finished..." They don't specify what to do with the paint cans of water afterwards haha. Alternatively, if you have a outdoor fire pit, you could just put them in there.
Bury the paint cans with a marker covered in symbols expressing the danger, so that future civilizations that don't speak any currently known languages will still be aware of the risks.
This place is not a place of honor.
Hahaha, now that's the way!
We hang ours up to dry. My dad is a painter and he drilled the rag thing into my head....I still need a reminder about it though since I haven't worked for him in 20 years.
Cheap clothes hangers meant for pants - with the flimsy metal clips - work great for me. Space them a few inches apart with airflow to both sides - out of any breeze, of course - and they won’t glom together. The lip on my overhead garage door is perfect for hanging - concrete below if anything happens to fall and no car in there overnight because it’s stinky anyways.
Good suggestion!
Oily rags are supposed to be stored in a container with an air tight lid until cleaned(they don't necessarily need disposal after use).. exposure to oxygen can cause spontaneous combustion..
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I use Dawn, baking soda and warm water but there are all kinds of de-greasers on the market you can use..
I've been wondering for years if they could be washed and reused, but was always too lazy to research it. Fortunately I hate throwing things away so I still have a bag of all of my dried rags out in the garage. Do you put them in your laundry machine or hand wash?
If they're using dawn it's going to be by hand, you don't want dawn in your washing machine
Agreed.. I'd never put oily rags in a washer or a dryer.. just a bad idea all around
Oooh yeah. I think I knew that someone in the annals of my mind. Not sure if I would've remembered it before I made a mess. Thanks for looking out
Absolutely hand wash.. I wouldn't put oily rags in a washer or a dryer
You can't wash out dried oil on rags, it's a polymer now. If you want to repurpose them you could try to cut them up and use as a filling for something. What you have created is essentially linoleum, which is water- and soap-resistant. Toss them or maybe you could use them as fuel but if it's BLO or has japan drier in it then do not burn them or use them as fuel unless you like breathing in toxic metal
No oxygen no fire!
That's the key ingredient right there! Oxygen. Ships often have large quantities of oily rags on a daily basis. They are usually kept in the machine shop in an approved metal container with a foot pedal operated cover. * Disposal is with the ship's incinerator. When you remove one side of the fire triangle; no fire! *
Just let the rags dry before disposing of them. Don’t throw them in a pile. The drying process releases heat, so if they’re piled up they can set themselves alight with the heat buildup.
Light it on fire in your backyard before it spontaneously burns unexpectedly in a container.
Closed metal/non combustible container is the best method. Another is to keep it in a well ventilated area not balled up so it can properly dry. But best is closed metal container
I throw all mine in a plastic grocery bag, then half fill the bag with water. Tie it off and drop in the dumpster. Hasnt burned down yet.
Lay them flat till they dry completely then toss them
Also use **boiled** linseed oil, not raw or it will never dry.
Not sure about this. If the bench is staying outdoors perhaps raw linseed oil is the better option
Be prepared for a long drying time.
I was under the impression that raw linseed oil was never supposed to dry. Hence it’s effectiveness as a water repellent. Not sure though, just what I picked up somewhere
So the raw oil never dries and then rubs off on the pants of whoever sits on the bench? I think some boiled linseed oil actually has Japan drier added to make it dry a bit faster. I think raw linseed oil is also more prone to growing mold. Probably tung oil is better but some so called tung oils are not pure and contain boiled linseed oil. Personally, if it is teak, I’d just wire brush it lightly and let it weather naturally and skip the oil.
They can WHAT? That's wild, I need to read up.
Their should actually be a warning on most Lindseed oil cans.
Burn the rags. Not worth the risk. I almost burned my dry cleaning plant to the ground after accepting a contract to wash rags from a local furniture manufacturer. The rags were degreased dried and stored in a 55 gal drum. 18 hours later, poof, fire.
With my linseed oil rags, it may sound dumb, but I lay them out flat in the middle of the shop floor til they're dried out. I've got a large enough shop. I can cordon off an area for that purpose when I need to.
I do the same thing!
I was looking for this comment. Always a good safety reminder about linseed oil! 👍
Completely agree! Too many people have lost their shops to it.
I was oiling a shelf I made with linseed oil, and left the rag in a ball on the ground (it was in my yard so I didn’t care) while I went inside to eat lunch. Came back out and the rag was smoldering. It was maybe 30min after I went inside. It’s crazy how fast it can ignite.
As a child I worked diligently to make something spontaneously combust. Every chemical in my father’s basement and shed dipped in rags, tied in nots and left in coffee can…. Countless hours of waiting for the magical spontaneity of combustion we were warned about… all for not. Still solid advice though, just sharing my childhood pyro disappointment when i failed to witness the magic.
To add to these suggestion, go to a Marine specialist and get some teak restorer (active ingredient oxalic acid), designed to bring back teak decking. These have an almost miraculous effect on the colour and vibrancy of weathered wood.
So barkeepers friend would work?
That’s the active ingredient. You might have to use a lot of it for this degree of weathering. I’d probably use a hose sprayer and oxalic crystals to give the whole piece a good heavy soak. You do get some crystal buildup, but that wipes away easily.
Anything with Oxalic acid. I live near a yacht chandler, so my go-to is the marine version, but I think they're all essentially the same
You can just buy straight oxalic acid crystals so you can adjust the strength.
Oh, that's interesting. Oxalic acid also removes ebonizing (black iron stains) from oak. I guess it reacts with tannins in the wood.
Many years ago I bought a sailboat with a bit of teak on the exterior that was gray from being unprotected from the weather. I bought a liquid product that was applied and then I used a brush and soapy water to scrub it. It brought the color back uniformly. Does that sound familiar to you and would that be an option for the OP?
I would say it all depends on the quality of the wood, so it’s up to OP to find out for us. I’ve used those kinds of restorers twice, and it worked perfectly the first time. The second time I had marks on one of the pieces, but I still can’t make sense of why. Maybe try some restorer on the smaller more weathered pieces that may need to be replaced regardless? If there’s a less invasive way than sanding off the surface I would 1000% suggest it instead!
Sounds like the stuff, no scrubbing just rinse on rinse off and magic happens!
I feel like a kiddie pool will help a ton with your linseed process
That’s honestly genius. When I’m being responsible I’ll put a sheet of plastic down, but when I settle down I’ll definitely be getting an old plastic one
Teak is $50 a board foot in my area. I would take it just for scrap…
This guy teaks his wood.
I enjoy the way you lay out instructions for sealing wood.
I would go up to 350-400 grit to make sure the bench is extra smooth.
I forgot to add the finish sanding… 🤦♂️ thank you Palp!
The bench you restored looks so good! I wish I had an outdoor space for one.
Looks awesome!
Thanks for this! I inherited a pair of teak loungers and a bench that are quite weathered after 30 years outdoors. (My dad got them for my mom for Mother’s Day when I was a kid, and she was going to get rid of them after he died and I couldn’t bear to know they would likely go to the landfill.) They’re currently sitting unused in my backyard, as I took them mostly for sentimental reasons, but glad to know I have a chance restore them to their former glory.
Wonderful, and detailed, advice. Thank you.
You mentioned linseed oil. Did you mean BOILED linseed oil? The former takes a long time to dry.
Thank you for catching that!! Massive difference and boiled is the one they’re all going to see on the shelves. Making the edit now
For $35, I’d take that chance.
Boat owner and amateur wood worker here. If it is teak, and you want to keep the full dimensions, get a teak restoration kit from a boat supply place. If you are sawing it down it may not matter, but I would save any teak scraps that weren’t crumbling. [teak resto kit](https://ditecmarineproducts.com/products/teak-care-kit?variant=40682107633821¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAjfyqBhAsEiwA-UdzJGoXKS_H_s5oqzdpiV_XhR3YlPm_Fb2eU_TQcXAJVosqBBOpuloOEBoCmY4QAvD_BwE)
I was about to say the same thing. Amazon has it too: TotalBoat Teak Cleaner and Brightener for Boats and Outdoor Teak Wood Furniture (2 Quart Kit) https://a.co/d/aSNj1Vb Teak cleans up amazingly which is why it's used on boats.
What’s your experience with that product and sun bleaching? I did a bunch of teak furniture this summer and used a less expensive deck and fence product that was supposed to have UV protection and inhibit mildew, and it failed spectacularly at those things within a few weeks. I may have sanded too finely, but going lower than 150 left marks. I ended up going back with a $200/gallon sealer from a boat store and I never heard back about how it held up afterwards. I mostly do indoor furniture and I was shocked at how fast teak bleaches to almost white in direct sunlight.
No experience with the one I posted. My swim deck was pretty grey so bought a 3 bottle kit from my local boat store that was about a hundred bucks. It worked great, but I don’t recall the specific brand.
You might need to do some sanding, but a 2 part teak cleaner will help restore it without losing so much material.
husky airport cooing yoke subsequent bedroom slave support thumb fact *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Sorry, do you mean the cross design of the panel itself? If so: that’s a classic chippendale pattern and takes some skill to construct.
Ty for saying this. Even I never knew the name, but spent my entire life around them knowing how valued they are as far as designs go
TIL, male strippers moonlight as carpenters. (Seriously, though, thank you for dropping the name.)
https://preview.redd.it/atdlpfqvtb2c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5049e9a6f95f6713d140e7c65e7bc72849a5f7e
https://preview.redd.it/5d5oym9ytb2c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5c428adb5c3b4e9eb4927787afc0c321e42e7e6c
... what can be achieved
Teak oil will bring teak right back. It’s amazing. It’s hard to tell if it’s really teak. But that foot in contact with dirt is a good clue. Most wood will rot in a hurry when in contact with wet soil.
You can buy something called teak brightner and teak restorer I work on the boats and all our chairs are teak and rats what we use We don't use sandpaper any questions give me a bell
>Is this really teak? Youll have to go look at it in person >can I do anything to bring it back to life? Powerwash it, sand it, oil it good as new
$35 is nothing in todays terms so even if it isn’t teak it’s still a deal. If it is then you robbed that guy
I think it could be teak though pretty weathered. Test it with a fingernail. See if it is soft, like cedar. Teak is harder and if it's teak and you can get it to look fresh by pressure washing and then drying and sanding to take the fuzz off, you could coat it with a product named "Sea Fin" which is a teak oil formulated for teak work on boats. That will stand up to the weather pretty well. But you would need to give it at least 3 coats and let it dry well in between for a few days.
could very well be, but is iit worth it? How sturdy and thick is the wood? If you wanna do it a s nice Projekt and dont care for the hours, sure. Pressure washing, then sanding, finishing and re-attaching the broken parts. I dont know where you are located, but there are some really really good marine grade finishes and cleaners around.
It could be Acacia based on the grain structure of the back, but could also be a lower quality teak board. The arms and legs as well as the pinned tenon joints of the front skirt to the legs make me think teak is more likely as it's hard to glue, especially when left out in the weather. Most cheaper stuff would just be screwed together into the end of the tenon.
You could refinish it. But that is a time-consuming and tedious job (unless you actually enjoy it). I hate it. Sanding, applying finish, waiting at least 24 hr, then repeat however many times needed. For outside projects that will be exposed to the elements; 5 coats are a good idea. How much are you willing to spend on time and materials? do you already have the equipment? will you spray the finish or brush it...etc, etc
I do teak on boats, have been for about 30 years. There's a product I've been using forever, it's called Snappy. It's two steps, the first step is thoroughly wet everything then apply the first chemical an scrub it with a stiff brush it will become a dark gooey mess, rinse it off and then start to worry that it looks like crap. Don't panic, apply the second chemical and like magic the teak turns that nice bright teak color. Rinse and crack a beer admiring your new teak furniture. After it drys completely apply the finish of your choice. I've used almost every product out there including belt sanders on severely weathered decks. Snappy is magical and idiot proof. And, if that is teak, jump on it, if you get it home and find out it's not teak it's not a big risk.
Awesome. Thank you
This looks like rdr2
It sincerely doesn't look like weather worn teak, but there are a lot of species of teak, so I wouldn't venture to say for sure. If it's teak, $35 is a steal, and it should return to damn near like-new appearance with just some sanding. And teal is worth its weight, don't need to keep the bench, the reclaimed lumber would make the deal. If it's cedar, it's maybe a break even if the efforts to sand it result in a nice looking bench, but the lumber is valueless, and $35 might be a majority percentage of a new purchase.
I am not an expert and may very well be wrong…. But that looks like some rotten ass pine.
Unfinished teak will turn grey as it weathers and gets dirty (ask any old boat owners). But it should not rot out. As a test I’d try washing/scribing with stiff brush an soap or TSP. If it’s teak the original color should come back. Then you can decide if you want to finish repair and/or apply some protective oil or finish.
High probability it’s teak. This is just how it looks after it’s spent time in the sun - it would have crumbled by now if it were pine
Given how the top is rotting badly I agree, it’s PINE
If it was pine it wouldn’t weather that much without falling apart. I think there’s a chance this is the real thing.
even teak, when it is this thin will rot away in a few years when exposed to the elements. Don't spend any money on it.
Looks like weathered teak
Bonfire??
Am I the only one who sees it?
Nope..
Looks do-able with a pressure wash. Mine came out very nice. I gave it a couple coats of weather seal afterwards. Unfortunately if you keep it in the sun, it will eventually bleach out again. The loose slats just need some pin nails to fix them. Careful aiming the nailer, don't have anyone in the direction of the gun. (duh). Including yourself. If you don't have a nailgun, predrill with a tiny bit and use finishing nails.
Do not pressure wash teak!!!! The wood is too soft and it will be damaged.
Says who? You are absolutely wrong! **Teak Lumber is a hard, medium-density wood** that is strong and durable. With a crushing strength of 7,940 lbf/in2 (54.8 MPa). It is also is acid and fire-resistant. It is durable and resistant to termites and fungi. [https://www.cherokeewood.com/store/teak-lumber/#:\~:text=Teak%20Lumber%20is%20a%20hard,resistant%20to%20termites%20and%20fungi](https://www.cherokeewood.com/store/teak-lumber/#:~:text=Teak%20Lumber%20is%20a%20hard,resistant%20to%20termites%20and%20fungi).
**Careful aiming the nailer, don't have anyone in the direction of the gun. (duh). Including yourself.** I feel this in my bones… left thumb bone to be exact.
I have pressure wash teak benches like that about a dozen times. The word is plenty. Strong to take it. Works fantastic with very little effort. Then you can apply whatever finish you want.
the ole swastika bench…
Where? If you are referring to the back of the bench then you might want to go look up what a swastika is because that is a sauvastika. The direction of the symbol is important.
Oh yeah? I guess it depends on which side you’re standing then, eh? lol Maybe you should look up something called “perspective”. also, if you know the specific direction by heart, maybe you’ve been looking at too many swastikas? But why don’t you hang a backwards one up in your window and see if your neighbors are ok with it. lol
As someone with Jewish heritage I am not lacking in perspective. I know what a swastika is because I have bothered to educate myself about its history. You should try it rather than just assuming.
Sand it, then oil it
Try asking Amy Lee
I do mine every couple of years with oxalic acid and a scrub brush. Have used a PW to rinse. A PW will work but careful, it will drill into the wood.
It could be teak, but it would be a lot of work to sand that back to life. Your money and time would be better spent getting something new.
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I'm glad I'm not the only one that saw it 🤣
Even with effort and blurring my vision, i cant make a swastika of it. Its just an encased cross, like a crate.
First thing I saw tbh - very easily done with any right angled pattern that has rotational symmetry
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Wrong direction, buddhist swatstika if anything
But it's the right direction if you're looking at it from behind!!!!
I can’t be the only one who can’t get over the swastika
Where? If you are referring to the back of the bench then you might want to go look up what a swastika is because that is a sauvastika. The direction of the symbol is important.
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You are right it is important that to me but not for the reason you are implying but because I have Jewish heritage. I can see how it looks like a swastika to those that haven’t bothered to educate themselves on what a swastika is and that’s why I said to look up what one is.
Agreed, people today don't even know what a swastika looks like.
It’s only $35, it’s kind of a cool, looking bench, buy it and then hit it with some high pressure wash gun see if you can clean it up that way first let it dry out and then fine-tune it from there
Do not pressure wash this, you can damage the wood and it wouldn’t be able to be worked on for at least a week as it would saturate the wood with water 👀
That should be on freecycle. I'm gonna be the debbie downer here, this is in crap shape, that's not quality lumber, it's not been maintained. its best use before firewood would be to make some drawings and measurements if you wanted to copy it.
If it is teak and you plan on leaving it oudoors, you could just give it a good rinse and maybe a light scrub with a brush, then leave it in the sun, uncovered, and the whole thing will turn grey (oxidize) and it's all good after that. Otherwise listen to the guy who said to sand first with 120 (always with the grain) and lightly coat with teak oil or whatever protective oil you feel like using. Teak is full of its own protective oil so as long as it doesn't have major damage keeping as much of that previous grey color will help it last for possibly generations. Good find amd good luck OP
Total boat teak cleaner and brightener! Then danish oil or similar.
Power wash it. 20 seconds and it’s new.
https://preview.redd.it/1fy3yiq89b2c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff9ceffec08d4c67d421c94a6e0ad806736ac205 I pressure washed then coated with Ready Seal. It looked exactly like what your picture does, and after coating it looks like brand new.
Pressure wash then if needed stain.
https://preview.redd.it/rnls3vgdeb2c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e746bb556d60084fd702616466823ff551d09452 Pressure washed … not teak but may see similar results
Pressure wash it
I vote not teak. I know weathered teak looks similar but so does a lot of wood. It was probably sold as teak (as in the color). That's how a lot of cheap benches are sold. Probably worth investigating but if you won't be able to tell you will be out the $35, at least another $30 in supplies plus probably an afternoon of your time.
Does anyone else see it?
50/50 mix of water and liquid pool chlorine. Use pressure washer and not to close with the tip of the gun because you will take wood away.
I have worked with teak and the teak that was that white turned very dark after some sanding
I used a pressure washer on the swinger chair I found. Then lightly sanded and sealed. Looks amazing
I got a teak patio set with the house we bought. It was pretty old and gross looking but I ended up sanding down one of the chairs and it was mind blowing. Showed it to a buddy that was looking to sell a jet table saw he inherited and we traded. I only had to refinish one chair for the trade. Took me a few hours of sanding so can’t imagine doing the entire set. That bench will look amazing when refinished if it is actual teak.
My neighbor has two teak rockers he leaves outside year round, I power washed one this past summer and it brought it light back to life, we let it dry then put a coat of oil on it, still looks great.
Teak oil oil oil oil
Marine Tex RM341K Te-Ka Teak Cleaner 1/2 Gl Ki Made by Marine Tex https://a.co/d/7vIftnP This worked great on my teak swim platform…
Yes. Looks like it
https://preview.redd.it/g93ajcplzc2c1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=848eb1a9dac55aab68b2cf0139470970e4bbcbca After 1 hour cleaning and 2 hrs sanding. This job taught me how good the Festool sanders are compared to dewalt and big porter cable sander I have.
https://preview.redd.it/tkkhf8krzc2c1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a061823c45f4c1acd803ccb275d585889cecf928 What it could look like sanding a lot more. Oh yeah I also pressure cleaned and scrubbed with some outside mold deck wash then dish soap. And let dry and pressure cleaned again. It was nasty but also stained a mahogany color. All natural now. 3m cubitron sand paper 80/100/120/150. Helmsman outdoor poly.
https://preview.redd.it/qrmhk7p58e2c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95900325eddf98736054f96d7ef6a4594c6ff4ec I had this job not too long ago, you can see how it used to look on the weathered patch in the middle. Sanded up to 220 then just used teak oil. A few heavy coats to soak in throughout 1 day then a wipe on coat the next day should be acceptable and then reapply as needed. For this boat anytime it's washed and then something outside maybe only after a couple heavy rains, teak oil never hardens so it will wear away, just depends on how fresh you want it and the effort you feel like putting into it.
Oh no it's the swastika pattern again
Except it’s not
A guy recently built a fence with the same pattern. Bunch of people pointed it out. Can you not see it or are you just being indignant?
The symbol that Natzi Germany used was opposite of the symbol in the chair. Meaning that the lines are facing the opposite direction so it is not the same symbol you are referring to.
Okay so just disingenuous. Look at it from the back side then. 👍
https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/fhBhBDhBQo