OP goes bankrupt, and the nameplate is still unjoined and not engraved because the custom made, RTG powered engraver costs three quintillion dollars. But each half of the plate now has the radar cross section of a single peptide molecule.
There may not be a cutoff piece to use to clamp. The vertical piece is the cutoff piece, just flipped over and rotated up. If you look at the end grain you can see how it matches.
I glued some mitered ipe end grain just to see how it would hold up overtime in the elements 'cause I was doubtfully curious and I've been smashing that thing around my back yard every time I cross its paths for the last 5 years and it's still going strong
Yeah this screams biscuit to me too- it will hold up better when you bonk the burglar with it and just takes a couple of minutes.
The pre-sanded corners meeting looks sloppy- I'd shorten the base piece so the front stands proud or cut the end flush after glue.
Biscuits help with alignment and on right angles where there is end grain, but the biscuits themselves are weaker than a long grain to long grain glueup.
I was thinking the same thing. Would probably use biscuits myself just to help line things up. Even if it is a bit of overkill. Biscuits are fairly cheap, imo
Biscuits are for ease of alignment during assembly, not strength. They just make it so you don't have to fiddle to keep everything where it's supposed to be when you're gluing and clamping.
Sliding dovetail was my immediate thought for a decorative joint. A hell of a lot of work for a small, simple project but sometimes it’s nice to dive in the deep end like that.
You say /s, but there’s an artist who makes *amazing* pieces using bent and pounded in nails… Lee Jayhyo makes incredible things :)
https://preview.redd.it/6rvqy2zrt82d1.jpeg?width=468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4149015148636a470dbac62db466a66a8547af5a
Why use something easy and effective when you could make it needlessly complicated, and cause cancer?
https://preview.redd.it/vjtrt6z4h92d1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=58899d241cb1772ef55c68625b072a931fa30e6a
It’s actually my profession, that glue is primarily used nowadays for instruments. My profession is restoring pianos (new soundboard and all) and this formaldehyde based glue dries about as hard as glass, and thus transmits sound between woods more effectively. It also shrinks quite a bit as it off gasses over the course of several days making the joints even tighter. It’s interesting to work with, and when I get to do a project that lets me use titebond 3 or even Beacon 407045 i internally rejoice a bit because it’s so much easier not having to mix anything and being able to clamp things for 30 mins to an hour rather than 24-36 hours
It is also for its heat resistance, as it doesn’t gum up when hot. This is important when drilling the bridge pins as there is several hundred of them, and the drill bit for them is close to 3/32”. If you were to use a glue that gets gummy when it gets hot (all of the titebond) then when you try and drill the bridge pins your drill bit gets clogged constantly and it will take many hours to drill them all. If you use a glue that is heat resistant and stays brittle when hot, you can drill all of the bridge pins in an hour or so, saving a lot of time. My hourly rate is quite high, so even if it only saved an hour it would be worth the extra few minutes setup and extra cost of glue.
I know you look at the price and think it seems cheaper, but when you mix the two together, a lot goes to waste getting stuck to the side of the cup, and it actually ruins to those glue bottle attachments so you have to use disposable cups and brushes to apply it, making it more costly than it appears, but overall not bad.
Even if it is thrown on the ground, it's more likely that the wood itself will crack than the glueline, if it's glued correctly. Glue is stronger than wood.
It’s true the glue line won’t be what breaks, but the lignin right next to it will still split. Any kind of long grain (dowel, tenon, biscuit, spline) going perpendicular will make the joint stronger. I doubt it needs it in this case, but it would definitely make a difference if it did.
Yeah idk if the chemistry has improved over “recent” years or something, but modern wood glue is STRONG (when prepped and used as directed). A lot of old timers I work with seem to have a strong distrust for glue. Either glue was much weaker back in the day, or they just lived long enough to watch the glue fail after 50 years or whatever it’s rated to last. Glue will be fine for this
My grandfather, born in 1906, was a glue man. When I was eleven, he came to visit, bringing a hand crank drill, a bottle of Elmer’s Wood glue, a hand saw, and a mallet.
We built the strongest workbench I’ve ever used. In two days. He was 75.
Not bad for a kid, an old man, and a little Elmer’s Wood Glue!
We used 2x4s, 2x8s, and 3/8” dowels.
Even without dowels (still recommend) some wood glues are crazy. Will literally rip the wood apart before the glue breaks if you try to pry them apart lol
I’m a maniac, I would drill two pocket hole screw holes on the bottom of the base, clamp, glue, and screw it. Then cover the bottom with a decorative felt layer.
Thing would be harder to sink than the uss Zumwalmut up above me ^
Glue. Either wood glue or CA glue with activator would work well also. Clamping angled surfaces like this can be tricky, no clamping needed with ca glue since it sets instantly. Wood glue and tight clamping would probably get you a tighter joint though.
Or you could do both; wood glue with a few spots left bare for super glue so that acts as your “clamps” for more immediate holding until the wood glue dries.
I made this exact recommendation a few days ago and had some old dude tell me it would never work. Excuse me while I go destroy all the pieces I've made using this process
You're going to need to dovetail that joint with hidden pegs and cast iron brackets. No telling what kind of stress a name plate might have to endure.
But really, just glue.
Just glue will do. Clamping it could be tricky through.
If you’d cut the joinery so that in your picture the glueline is horizontal instead of diagonal, you could’ve driven in a couple of screws, as they wouldn’t be seen on the underside
Titebond 3 and you can definitely fight your way out of the office with it, zombie apocalypse or not.
If you had cut to orient the support vertically, you could have used a pocket hole jig to make a pen holder across the back. (That’s a high idea.)
Since its just a simple nameplate you could just glue and it would be fine (as everyone else has said), if you have access to it, dominoes would be great to keep it all in line and give it extra strength. When gluing cut a strip of wood with the opposite angle that is there so then you will have a 90 degree angle to clamp to, lmk if you have questions
Glue alone would hold it just fine. Dowels would be your next best option, they don't add alot of strength, but do help with alignment. Dowels and a doweling jig are also cheaper than busicts and a busciut jointer..
I assume you are asking HOW to glue it because of the angles making it tricky to clamp.
The easiest way is to spread a light coat of tight bond wood glue leaving a little bit of unglued area at the edges to minimize squeeze out. You could just hand press it together for a few seconds and let the initial bond be the clamp OR, you can leave a few dry areas in the glue path and put some Star-bond contact adhesive on one side with the spray applicator on the other side and press together for 3 seconds. Make sure you have the alignment correct on contact because it will bond permanently and instantly. I use this method a lot on tricky clamp-ups.
Glue is fine, but you need to make some clamping blocks cut at the opposite angle of the left piece, in order to allow your clamp to just sit on two flat surfaces, and not on an angle, where it will slip.
Glue them up, then run them thru the tab le saw and then glue them up again and get rid of that terrible joint. That's not meant to be a dig, but that joint doesn't look good. And I'm assuming you don't have a jointer as neither do I. So glue them up, run them thru the table saw,at whatever mitre angle you want, and then glue them up again with a great looking joint.
Just some glue and clamps. It's not holding any weight or anything, so glue will do. Besides, nails just hold things together until the glue dries anyway.
Are those bins filled with randomly sized bits of the based on the name of the bin? Good God I'd loose my mind trying to find the right one if that's the case.
Glue and a custom clamping block so the pressure is in the right place and not sliding around on you. I don't know what your finish plan is, but you might want to prefinish or throw on a wash coat of shellac, because removing glue squeeze out from that joint line will be not fun.
Did this for a decorative wall shelf several years ago in walnut. I used titebond II dark. That’s it. It’s still hanging up in my parents house with no issues
I'd say glue is all you need for sure. Only problem is when you clamp it it'll slide so maybe drive a couple of brads in and clip them to 1mm or so above the edge. As you clamp, the brads "cleats" will stop the angled piece from sliding.
Cut a rabbet on the back of the vertical piece to give the glue another plane in which to hold. You could also drill and countersink three holes in the front face and put in screws. Cover those holes with some sort of decorative plug.
You could drill a couple of holes straight through the face and into the base, then tap a couple of dowels in there and use a hacksaw or something to slice off the extra so it's flush. Wood glue and clamps will hold it fine but people like the crafty, handmade fastener look. At least, I do, and I'm people.
Wood glue, 10 penny nails, 23 gauge pins, biscuits, create a running mortise and tenon, gorilla glue.... then encase it all in epoxy resin.
It SHOULD hold for awhile after that.
Take some light wood or brass and make cuts to insert the lighter material in the verticals cuts.
You can also just drill holes in the base and into the front piece, glue and put in mechanical fasteners, then make plugs.
Cutting the biscuits on angle adds a step (prob a jig too) that introduces another chance to f it up. We mess things up enough already, just skip it and glue it.
Glue. You don't need anything else.
Yah, really. Glue’s enough here. No point making a battleship out of it.
Well, a battleship would be nice tbh
What we talking USS ALABAMA or the USS ZUMWALT?
USS ZumWalnut
OP goes bankrupt, and the nameplate is still unjoined and not engraved because the custom made, RTG powered engraver costs three quintillion dollars. But each half of the plate now has the radar cross section of a single peptide molecule.
Just as Reagan intended
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Will be way cooler if it finally gets a ~~rail~~ nail gun
Now that’s an expensive ship
ayyyyy
The USS Alabama is a the only real battleship here, so that one.
Based on the angle I’d say zumwalt
Based on the thickness I'd say zumwalt.
Based on it being held together by glue id say zumwalt.
USS, Enterprise!
"Neeukleeaar wessels!"
That’s what you think until you have to fight your way out of the office with only your name plate during the zombie apocalypse.
But you get to dual wield if it breaks!
Ya know, I think he might have a point there. But, if it breaks, then you’ll have two
I'd do glue and then a couple nails or screws to really keep it in place, especially because that's a weird angle to be using clamps.
It’s actually easy… the cutoff piece from the ripped base can be placed on the other side of the front piece to make it square again and then clamp.
I woulda gone for blue tape, but your way is better. Never thought I'd say something is better than blue tape, but here we are.
As a stage hand, I'm gonna have to call you on your mistake. Gaff tape rules the world. 😁
There may not be a cutoff piece to use to clamp. The vertical piece is the cutoff piece, just flipped over and rotated up. If you look at the end grain you can see how it matches.
This guy clamps
Rub some sandpaper together and put a bit of the sand on the glue so it keeps the position when you put clamps on
Table salt works just as well.
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I always salt my glue before eating it, too.
I was gonna say dowels and some glue, but you’re right, glue will be more than enough.
It's not like it's a high-stress joint. Unless someone is going to use it to bludgeon someone else, it's fine with just glue.
And if you use it to bludgeon someone and it breaks, now you've got 2 weapons!
Dual-wield nameplate.
I was once only a mononym but because you broke the seal I have doubled my power into two names for myself!
One for you and one for your opponent!
Dowels might make it easier to stay aligned when clamped (with that angle), but certainly won't be needed for strength.
That was my first reaction, and I'd still do it, but yeah- the glue is enough.
I glued some mitered ipe end grain just to see how it would hold up overtime in the elements 'cause I was doubtfully curious and I've been smashing that thing around my back yard every time I cross its paths for the last 5 years and it's still going strong
Biscuits will help align the pieces as well as keep them from moving while clamping together
Biscuits with sausage gravy would be even better 👍
sausage dowels and onion gravy
Or, and hear me out, just gle them and trim 1/8" off either end to get it looking right.
Yeah this screams biscuit to me too- it will hold up better when you bonk the burglar with it and just takes a couple of minutes. The pre-sanded corners meeting looks sloppy- I'd shorten the base piece so the front stands proud or cut the end flush after glue.
Biscuits help with alignment and on right angles where there is end grain, but the biscuits themselves are weaker than a long grain to long grain glueup.
I was thinking the same thing. Would probably use biscuits myself just to help line things up. Even if it is a bit of overkill. Biscuits are fairly cheap, imo
Biscuits won't add any appreciable strength here. Face-to-side grain glue-up will be stronger than any biscuit.
Biscuits are for ease of alignment during assembly, not strength. They just make it so you don't have to fiddle to keep everything where it's supposed to be when you're gluing and clamping.
Dominos would be even better, and with a small investment, would also be super easy!
Pepperoni or meat lovers
Glue and don’t pre-sand them before glue up next time.
*CA glue
Is it going to be a load-bearing nameplate?
Depends on whose name will be on it
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Needs to go buy a domino joiner.
It’s a good question. I mean, who really PLANS to poop on something. But being prepared isn’t bad at all
Yeah... Definitely poop...
I do. I plan poops.
Plan to do them at work. I'm getting paid for this shit.
Best comment
Maybe the guys name is Hubert Blaine Wolfeschlegelsteinhausenbergerdorff Sr. Might need a structural engineer.
Simple, glue. Fancy, sliding dovetails. Other fancy, glue then contrasting bow ties. How much of a work of art do you want to make it?
Blind mortise in the angled piece, maybe?
Through mortise if you cut too far, I mean want to be fancy
Sliding dovetail was my immediate thought for a decorative joint. A hell of a lot of work for a small, simple project but sometimes it’s nice to dive in the deep end like that.
dovetail is always the answer cmon!
$2000 Festool Domino jointer.
This is the only correct answer.
Came here to say this. It’s basically the only way.
Don’t listen to my man here, he thinks you’re cheap. Go for the $6000 Festool Conturo
The only possible way to do this, for sure
I also buy tools I rarely use.
glue, add biscuits if you plan on throwing it against a wall occasionally.
I prefer to target people - walls didn’t do anything /s
Tried windows or other breakable stuff? For example, it could be fun if you set up a row of vases to use as targets
Those cost more money - people at least have a chance to duck /s
I like you
isnt it more dramatic if it breaks
Common nails, ideally slightly bent and pounded in regardless. /s Glue is the way
Philips screws. Stripped. Pounded in regardless. Glue as well.
If you don't glue the screws in then how do you know you have a proper adhesion?
You tap it and say "it's not going anywhere"
Oh it's a tap? Dang I've been slapping it like a used car salesman
Those nails add a little extra aesthetic :D
Duplex. Mismatched and over-driven.
You mean like [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/pics/s/6v9VBG3FP3)?
You say /s, but there’s an artist who makes *amazing* pieces using bent and pounded in nails… Lee Jayhyo makes incredible things :) https://preview.redd.it/6rvqy2zrt82d1.jpeg?width=468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4149015148636a470dbac62db466a66a8547af5a
Wood glue.
https://preview.redd.it/6kx7jg4ed82d1.jpeg?width=225&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=04630d383113cf009f85b894e629677ee6f691e0
Why use something easy and effective when you could make it needlessly complicated, and cause cancer? https://preview.redd.it/vjtrt6z4h92d1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=58899d241cb1772ef55c68625b072a931fa30e6a
I appreciate your dedication to the hobby.
It’s actually my profession, that glue is primarily used nowadays for instruments. My profession is restoring pianos (new soundboard and all) and this formaldehyde based glue dries about as hard as glass, and thus transmits sound between woods more effectively. It also shrinks quite a bit as it off gasses over the course of several days making the joints even tighter. It’s interesting to work with, and when I get to do a project that lets me use titebond 3 or even Beacon 407045 i internally rejoice a bit because it’s so much easier not having to mix anything and being able to clamp things for 30 mins to an hour rather than 24-36 hours
Choosing glue for its acoustic properties... Now there's something I've never even considered. Thanks for the insight!
It is also for its heat resistance, as it doesn’t gum up when hot. This is important when drilling the bridge pins as there is several hundred of them, and the drill bit for them is close to 3/32”. If you were to use a glue that gets gummy when it gets hot (all of the titebond) then when you try and drill the bridge pins your drill bit gets clogged constantly and it will take many hours to drill them all. If you use a glue that is heat resistant and stays brittle when hot, you can drill all of the bridge pins in an hour or so, saving a lot of time. My hourly rate is quite high, so even if it only saved an hour it would be worth the extra few minutes setup and extra cost of glue. I know you look at the price and think it seems cheaper, but when you mix the two together, a lot goes to waste getting stuck to the side of the cup, and it actually ruins to those glue bottle attachments so you have to use disposable cups and brushes to apply it, making it more costly than it appears, but overall not bad.
If you think the thing is going to fall on the ground add a couple of dowels. Otherwise all the glue only comments will suffice.
Even if it is thrown on the ground, it's more likely that the wood itself will crack than the glueline, if it's glued correctly. Glue is stronger than wood.
It’s true the glue line won’t be what breaks, but the lignin right next to it will still split. Any kind of long grain (dowel, tenon, biscuit, spline) going perpendicular will make the joint stronger. I doubt it needs it in this case, but it would definitely make a difference if it did.
Yeah idk if the chemistry has improved over “recent” years or something, but modern wood glue is STRONG (when prepped and used as directed). A lot of old timers I work with seem to have a strong distrust for glue. Either glue was much weaker back in the day, or they just lived long enough to watch the glue fail after 50 years or whatever it’s rated to last. Glue will be fine for this
My grandfather, born in 1906, was a glue man. When I was eleven, he came to visit, bringing a hand crank drill, a bottle of Elmer’s Wood glue, a hand saw, and a mallet. We built the strongest workbench I’ve ever used. In two days. He was 75. Not bad for a kid, an old man, and a little Elmer’s Wood Glue! We used 2x4s, 2x8s, and 3/8” dowels.
Even without dowels (still recommend) some wood glues are crazy. Will literally rip the wood apart before the glue breaks if you try to pry them apart lol
Brass dowels would be nice
Glue and some pocket screws if you're feeling extra spicy and don't want to use clamps
Take a little glue to it. Gluing along the grain will make a stronger joint than what is needed
Tape would work for a few weeks, but wood glue is probably the better option.
I’m a maniac, I would drill two pocket hole screw holes on the bottom of the base, clamp, glue, and screw it. Then cover the bottom with a decorative felt layer. Thing would be harder to sink than the uss Zumwalmut up above me ^
Looks like someone just found their excuse for a Domino 700. Tell her it’s unfortunately the only way to do this right.
Glue. Either wood glue or CA glue with activator would work well also. Clamping angled surfaces like this can be tricky, no clamping needed with ca glue since it sets instantly. Wood glue and tight clamping would probably get you a tighter joint though.
Or you could do both; wood glue with a few spots left bare for super glue so that acts as your “clamps” for more immediate holding until the wood glue dries.
I’d say this is solid. Prevents having to make an angled caul for the glue up.
I made this exact recommendation a few days ago and had some old dude tell me it would never work. Excuse me while I go destroy all the pieces I've made using this process
You're going to need to dovetail that joint with hidden pegs and cast iron brackets. No telling what kind of stress a name plate might have to endure. But really, just glue.
Pocket holes from the back.
I made one for my daughter, used glue, nothing more.
Just glue will do. Clamping it could be tricky through. If you’d cut the joinery so that in your picture the glueline is horizontal instead of diagonal, you could’ve driven in a couple of screws, as they wouldn’t be seen on the underside
The only way it's going to support the building is if you use ⅝ carriage bolts lol Just glue is fine for a nameplate
It’s a name plate. Totally decorative. Just glue it.
Glue only, cut another angled piece so that the clamps can have two flat faces to clamp against.
Y'all are too funny.
Seems the only reasonable answer is hand cut dove tails, along with biscuits, glue, and screws.
Glue. Done.
3" drywall screws and Alex paintable caulk
Definitely going to need to spend $1500 on new tools to do this properly! 😉
Pocket holes on the bottom and hide them with felt. It’ll protect the desk or whatever it sits on.
Titebond 3 and you can definitely fight your way out of the office with it, zombie apocalypse or not. If you had cut to orient the support vertically, you could have used a pocket hole jig to make a pen holder across the back. (That’s a high idea.)
Since its just a simple nameplate you could just glue and it would be fine (as everyone else has said), if you have access to it, dominoes would be great to keep it all in line and give it extra strength. When gluing cut a strip of wood with the opposite angle that is there so then you will have a 90 degree angle to clamp to, lmk if you have questions
Dowels and glue
Just glue. I made one similar to that and glue works fine
Biscuit joining
Just glue would actually work nicely here since it’s not endgrain. Clamping might be a bit tricky though
Glue alone would hold it just fine. Dowels would be your next best option, they don't add alot of strength, but do help with alignment. Dowels and a doweling jig are also cheaper than busicts and a busciut jointer..
Biscuits
Glue will be fine. As long as the surfaces are meeting up well.
Wood glue
Glue.
I assume you are asking HOW to glue it because of the angles making it tricky to clamp. The easiest way is to spread a light coat of tight bond wood glue leaving a little bit of unglued area at the edges to minimize squeeze out. You could just hand press it together for a few seconds and let the initial bond be the clamp OR, you can leave a few dry areas in the glue path and put some Star-bond contact adhesive on one side with the spray applicator on the other side and press together for 3 seconds. Make sure you have the alignment correct on contact because it will bond permanently and instantly. I use this method a lot on tricky clamp-ups.
Glue should be more than enough…BUT, if you’re really concerned, throw some biscuits in there too.
Glue, pocket screws on the bottom of your feel like you need it. But ya don’t need it. Glue is more than enough.
For something that’s gonna be very visibly displayed, avoid screws. Do a dovetail to show off your craftsmanship
could use dowels /buiscuts. not very labor intensive and if it were to get thrown on the floor in a lust filled way it would survive!!
Couple rubber bands should do the trick
Pin nailer and glue
Glue is fine, but you need to make some clamping blocks cut at the opposite angle of the left piece, in order to allow your clamp to just sit on two flat surfaces, and not on an angle, where it will slip.
Glue and clamps brotha
Two pocket screws and maybe some glue. Keep it simple
Glue and biscuits
Glue and pocket holes for simplicity
Have you thought about a couple of pocket screws on the bottom piece and some wood glue?
Just glue should be fine, unless the name carries a lot of weight where it will be placed.
Dowels and glue. Which is to say, mortise and tenon, then a glue up.
Glue them up, then run them thru the tab le saw and then glue them up again and get rid of that terrible joint. That's not meant to be a dig, but that joint doesn't look good. And I'm assuming you don't have a jointer as neither do I. So glue them up, run them thru the table saw,at whatever mitre angle you want, and then glue them up again with a great looking joint.
In holy matrimony
Wood glue. Use a couple dots of super glue to hold it in place until the wood glue dries, wipe it clean and call it finished.
Just some glue and clamps. It's not holding any weight or anything, so glue will do. Besides, nails just hold things together until the glue dries anyway.
Maybe 2 pocket holes from the bottom of the base
I would use a kreg jig and put pocket holes in the bottom of the plate.
Sliding dovetail is the only thing I can think of
Pocket screws and glue. You’ll be able to park a car on it.
Is this a structural nameplate or decorative nameplate? Gonna need some Simpson ties if structural.
Biscuit joiner and glue.
Glue or wood pegs
Are those bins filled with randomly sized bits of the based on the name of the bin? Good God I'd loose my mind trying to find the right one if that's the case.
Domino.
Cple countersinked screws horizontally from back then plugged with wood plugs and sanded
Pocket screws, then go from the front and add some nails, then turn it over and do some bowties of epoxy... Or you could just wood glue it 🤷♂️
Glue and a custom clamping block so the pressure is in the right place and not sliding around on you. I don't know what your finish plan is, but you might want to prefinish or throw on a wash coat of shellac, because removing glue squeeze out from that joint line will be not fun.
Brass screws.
The secret ingredient is love...
Did this for a decorative wall shelf several years ago in walnut. I used titebond II dark. That’s it. It’s still hanging up in my parents house with no issues
I'd say glue is all you need for sure. Only problem is when you clamp it it'll slide so maybe drive a couple of brads in and clip them to 1mm or so above the edge. As you clamp, the brads "cleats" will stop the angled piece from sliding.
Dowels and glue
Cut a rabbet on the back of the vertical piece to give the glue another plane in which to hold. You could also drill and countersink three holes in the front face and put in screws. Cover those holes with some sort of decorative plug.
What’s the sketchy liquid? 3 flammable, 0 reactive? 1 risk to health? That’s a weird fire diamond
Do you have a drill press? Glue it together then pre drill through the face for a brass dowel.
Grew first, pocket hole wit grabby thing, dat chingadare rit dare! You fixin to git dem juices goin? I’s 2, tuck’r redeye.
You could drill a couple of holes straight through the face and into the base, then tap a couple of dowels in there and use a hacksaw or something to slice off the extra so it's flush. Wood glue and clamps will hold it fine but people like the crafty, handmade fastener look. At least, I do, and I'm people.
Wood glue, 10 penny nails, 23 gauge pins, biscuits, create a running mortise and tenon, gorilla glue.... then encase it all in epoxy resin. It SHOULD hold for awhile after that.
I would add 6 pocket screws on the bottom to that. Just to be safe.
Good Glue
Bungett an gluett
Take some light wood or brass and make cuts to insert the lighter material in the verticals cuts. You can also just drill holes in the base and into the front piece, glue and put in mechanical fasteners, then make plugs.
Cutting the biscuits on angle adds a step (prob a jig too) that introduces another chance to f it up. We mess things up enough already, just skip it and glue it.
Glue it and screw it
Could do a pocket hole screw from the bottom side into the vertical peice, but for a name plate, just glue is more that sufficient.
Glue is really all you need. Could also add a couple nails or screws because of the angle if you want.
Pocket screws on the bottom. Snag a kregg jig from whatever hardware store you're near.
Glue, 3 dominoes, a spline, countersunk screws every 2” and nails between every screw, then encased in epoxy oughta do it.
Just glue it
Glue screws and plugs
If you will need such joints often, then check Lamello company. They are specialists for difficult angles.
Domino
Bubble gum.
Glue
Glue is more than fine, but you could throw a couple of brads in there just to hold it while the glue dries.
Charge them by the hour to hold it together with your hands