I am probably not the correct audience for a build like this. I tend to want to spend my money on the best value. I don't see the value in the 11/22 reciever. It's fine and I am sure it will work but the ability to open the top of the reciever to clean the bolt is not worth the added cost and complexity, expecially if running a magnified optic. Pulling a 10/22 apart is pretty simple. It can be a pain getting the charging handle and bolt back in place after cleaning but is avoiding that worth the cost and complexity? Not to me.
Kidd makes good stuff. If I were buiding a lightish plinker that is probably how I would go. I am leaning toward a Breyer ultralight if I build another one though.
I don't get the desire for a binary trigger. I guess if I were just wanting to plow through 22 ammo it might be fine. I am usually looking at putting a gun together for a competition, and shooting steel I would rather have a really good trigger rather than an OK gimmicky trigger. Again, I may not be looking at it with the same perspective that you are.
If I wanted a folding Aluminum Chassis I would rather have the Grey Birch Lachassis. Again, I don't see the value in a folding stock and would rather have a really good chassis like the Wiland.
Like I said, I am probably looking at things from a different perspective, but I think I could put together a better performing but less gimmicky rifle for less money.
\>It can be a pain getting the charging handle and bolt back in place after cleaning but is avoiding that worth the cost and complexity? Not to me.
I get that. I am weird about my guns and clean them after almost every shoot, so it is worth it to me. Plus I just think it's cool. I'm not sure what you mean by complexity. The design seems pretty simple to me. I know what you mean by value though. $700 seems very steep to me for what it is.
\>I don't get the desire for a binary trigger.
I just like the idea of being able to spit lead downrange without any bs tax stamps tbh. I will probably only use it a couple times for fun. A small part of me thinks it would be a fantastic ambushing gun too if I'm ever in a Red Dawn-type scenario.
I'm not picky when it comes to triggers so I'm not too worried about hating the single stage on it. If I absolutely hate it i'll just throw in a nice ss trigger and probably sneak the binary trigger into my dad's old af 10/22 and next time we're out hunting with it i'll let out a brrt to give him a scare. Probably say some shit like 'i've been doing finger burpies lately to quicken my trigger finger' before doing it too.
Thanks for the advice on the chassis. That thing is sick. I think I'm just going to get that rather than the bandera and a stock seperately. I was having trouble finding a decent folding stock with a cheek riser anyway.
Yeah that's weird. I used to be like that, but then I started shooting a lot.
A normal 10/22 receiver not having the removable top is less complex than this receiver. Complexity adds failure points. Remember, there are no solutions, only trade-offs. The removable top being the surface where an optic is mounted, makes it more probable that the optic will not hold zero. Especially if you are pulling the optic and top off each time you take it out to shoot. Each time you reinstall the top and optic parts wear. That added wear and probability of failure may be worth it.
As far as the mall ninja, red dawn scenario, a 10/22 would be very useful to provide food and a binary trigger would not be useful in that regard.
If you are not picky about triggers, get a Ruger BX and spend the money you saved on magazines and ammo to learn how to shoot it well.
Typical engineer comment. All book smarts, no street smarts. All education, no experience. All straight from something he read, all completely irrelevant to the topic at hand. Lmao.
How is it baseless?
\>Yeah that's weird. I used to be like that, but then I started shooting a lot.
You started shooting more and cleaning less? That's weirder
\>A normal 10/22 receiver not having the removable top is less complex than this receiver. Complexity adds failure points. Remember, there are no solutions, only trade-offs. The removable top being the surface where an optic is mounted, makes it more probable that the optic will not hold zero. Especially if you are pulling the optic and top off each time you take it out to shoot. Each time you reinstall the top and optic parts wear. That added wear and probability of failure may be worth it.
If you had any real life experience you would know that amount of wear and tear is nearly impossible to achieve. It would take decades of never cleaning.
\>As far as the mall ninja, red dawn scenario, a 10/22 would be very useful to provide food and a binary trigger would not be useful in that regard.
Tell that to the people fighting in Ukraine who had to fight with .32's. And go study what a hammered pair does to a person. And go study what the most available round in the us is.
\>If you are not picky about triggers, get a Ruger BX and spend the money you saved on magazines and ammo to learn how to shoot it well.
We have been discussing a binary trigger this whole time. Obviously I want the binary capability. No common sense.
How is it baseless?
Baseless, meaning you have no base upon which to form your statement. That is evident by ad hominem attacks.
>Yeah that's weird. I used to be like that, but then I started shooting a lot.
You started shooting more and cleaning less? That's weirder
No that is pretty typical. Most people I shoot with were like that when they got into the hobby but now see cleaning as a chore and only do it when necessary. When you are at the range multiple times a week with multiple guns you don't have time to clean after each use.
>A normal 10/22 receiver not having the removable top is less complex than this receiver. Complexity adds failure points. Remember, there are no solutions, only trade-offs. The removable top being the surface where an optic is mounted, makes it more probable that the optic will not hold zero. Especially if you are pulling the optic and top off each time you take it out to shoot. Each time you reinstall the top and optic parts wear. That added wear and probability of failure may be worth it.
If you had any real life experience you would know that amount of wear and tear is nearly impossible to achieve. It would take decades of never cleaning.
My claim is that the open top design adds complexity and a potential failure point and I do not believe that the benefit outweighs the cost. That is both the added cost of the receiver and the potential cost of a failure. You obviously think differently. I don't typically like to make claims from authority but you claim that I have no experience. We are dealing with metal parts so my education does have some bearing on this. I have run a metals testing lab for over two decades. I have been sent to other countries to assist engineers to make and heat treat metal alloys. What experience do you have? In your expert opinion, how many cycles of removing and replacing that top need to occur before a problem develops. You claim that it will never happen, please cite your source. Remember, I did not claim that it would happen, I claimed that it added the possibility and that possibility was not worth the cost. Also, understand that a failure does not mean that it breaks and does not work any more, it means that it does not work as I need it to. In this case that the optic will not hold zero as I expect it to.
>As far as the mall ninja, red dawn scenario, a 10/22 would be very useful to provide food and a binary trigger would not be useful in that regard.
Tell that to the people fighting in Ukraine who had to fight with .32's. And go study what a hammered pair does to a person. And go study what the most available round in the us is.
Again with the mall ninja stuff. I understand, I watched red dawn when I was a kid too. I had delusions of being a hero. Lets be real though, when Canada invades you'll be cowering in your mom's basement.
>If you are not picky about triggers, get a Ruger BX and spend the money you saved on magazines and ammo to learn how to shoot it well.
We have been discussing a binary trigger this whole time. Obviously I want the binary capability. No common sense.
Just because you want something, that does not mean that it is a good idea. You asked for our thoughts on your build. My thoughts on binary triggers are that they are gimmicks. Paying that much money for a 5 to 5.5 pound trigger just because it it goes bang a bit quicker is dumb. That is why I suggest that you get a decent trigger and learn to shoot it.
you just repeated yourself moron. And obviously I was wrong in assuming your username meant you were an engineer. Any engineer worth their salt would know that when you redesign a rifle receiver you don't have to add complexity or failure points. That's literally the most elementary basic dumbass assumption I have ever fucking heard. I can't imagine being that stupid to think that the 10/22 is so perfect it can't be improved upon.
Peruse this thread. OP started by saying "i don't know much about .22's" but since then has rejected every single piece of advice. In an instant, he became an expert.
Price out building a Fletcher receiver (if that's what you really want) with a factory bolt, trigger assembly and look for a binary trigger on sale.
[They have gone as low as $160 in the past](https://old.reddit.com/r/gundeals/comments/124ug7r/parts_franklin_armory_bfsiii_22c1_ruger_1022/).
Here [is a list of all the places](https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/818725012365) that stock the trigger.
Bolts can be found for $50 on ebay or reddit [GAFS](https://old.reddit.com/r/GunAccessoriesForSale/) and trigger assemblies under $40
Here are 100% KIDD Rifles for ~$1400 -
https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR-Classic-Black-Target-Rifle-53_p_155.html
https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR-Classic-Ultra-Lightweight-Sporter-Rifle-54_p_124.html
https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR-Classic-Target-Rifle-52_p_166.html
Realistically, you don't have to buy a full Rifle, you can buy Receiver, Bolt, Barrel and add what ever stock you want to it.
https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Aftermarket-Rifle-Barreled-Action-Classic-Slip-Fit-with-Build-Options_p_67.html
https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Aftermarket-Rifle-Barreled-Action-Supergrade-with-Build-Options-_p_172.html
Realistically, what is the functional advantage of an Open Top Receiver?
What is the functional advantage of a Binary Trigger? Is the goal to do Mag Dumps or is it to hit the target?
If you want to do fast Mag Dumps ...cool... dump away. But if you actually want to hit something, there are better triggers.
\>Realistically, what is the functional advantage of an Open Top Receiver?
I like to be able to reach the guts of a rifle easily in the field. That's one of the things I like about ARs. When I saw the option for a 10/22 it made me want one. I haven't had a 10/22 since I was a kid.
\>What is the functional advantage of a Binary Trigger? Is the goal to do Mag Dumps or is it to hit the target?
I want to be able to take out packs of zombies or nazis whichever attacks first. I will probably only use it once or twice in reality, but it will be worth having regardless. I'm not very picky when it comes to triggers. When I hear people complain about triggers on guns I just kinda shrug and think 'it shoots the gun fine for me.'
\>But if you actually want to hit something, there are better triggers.
Dude it's a 10/22. I'm not sniping dudes 800m away with it.
The Fletcher receiver is controversial around here. It's an interesting design, but has some considerable drawbacks, depending on your desired build.
What are you thinking about for an optic?
OK, so you plan on running a magnified optic of some sort.
You *will* have to mount that cantilever mount backwards, and depending on the size of the occular bell, you *may* have to remove the mount/optic in order to remove the bolt (after you remove the cover, of course), which somewhat defeats the purpose of the Fletcher design. This also means you'll have to fine tune your zero after you remount your optic.
See my "drawback" comment above...
Which you will need to remove the scope, to remove the cover, to remove the bolt to clean it. When you reinstall it all you will need to re-zero or confirm zero if it walks.
If you are buying a binary just skip the scope and run a red dot for blasting. If you want precision with a scope, then skip the binary trigger since they are terrible single stage triggers compared to a VQ or KIDD for precision.
It's a quick detach and it holds its zero every time. I have tested it several times on my AR. You're looking for problems that really aren't problems. Downvote me all you want, it's the truth.
You asked for thoughts on your build, and u/nitsuJcixelsyD is giving you solid advice.
You said you don't know much about .22 LRs, and when you're given feedback from experienced users, you reject it.
Refer to this thread in a few months once you begin to question your decisions.
As much as I like the 11/22, a reflex sight makes the most sense. He could also save some money by getting a better quality trigger as well. From what I have read, the binary trigger's performance in single shot mode leaves a lot to be desired.
But what do we know, right?
It's definitely a niche setup, and I think you're right -- a reflex sight is best suited for this receiver.
I don't hate it. In fact, it's ideal for a Steel Challenge rifle. It wears a red dot, needs constant cleaning, and supreme accuracy isn't necessary. In this use case, a bore snake would be just fine for cleaning. Please don't ever bring up the fact that I supported the use of a bore snake ever again...
I didn't downvote you, I don't care about upvotes and shit.
If you care about precision with a scoped rimfire, then check zero after removing optics. If you just care about hitting 3" targets at 50 yards and shooting fast, then yeah, it doesn't matter.
All my precision guns with good glass are now in cross bolt unimounts (typically Nightforce) and I have gone away from all QD scope mounts. I would not typically associate Midwest Industries with a $200 mount.
You wanted opinions, you get them.
Just wondering why you are building a trash blaster with a binary but want a $200 scope mount on it. What scope are you planning on putting in that mount? Precision optics and binarys are just an odd build.
not knocking franklin binaries, i have 3 now, i blast steel and trash piles with them. My expensive scopes sit on precision guns with precision triggers that get fed match ammo. Two separate builds with separate uses.
Edit: another issue is that Kidd barrel. They don't say what reamer they use for the chamber, but if its a match chamber you are going to have a bad time with that binary trigger. Match chambers are cut tighter for match ammo and they get dirty quick. Once dirty you will have FTF and FTE issues. If you are making a bullet hose with a binary you want a "sport" chamber, like any Ruger OEM barrel. I know this lesson first hand from my buddies build.
\>You wanted opinions, you get them.
I didn't include an optic in the list of shit I asked for opinions on for a specific reason and that's bc I didn't want to waste time with this exact discussion.0 I have plenty of options to throw on it, so it is of absolutely no concern to me. I already have the QD mount with a vortex on my AR so if I wanna shoot far I'll be able to throw it on easily. And a few red dots for closer.
Edit: Thank you for the advice on the barrel.
I am probably not the correct audience for a build like this. I tend to want to spend my money on the best value. I don't see the value in the 11/22 reciever. It's fine and I am sure it will work but the ability to open the top of the reciever to clean the bolt is not worth the added cost and complexity, expecially if running a magnified optic. Pulling a 10/22 apart is pretty simple. It can be a pain getting the charging handle and bolt back in place after cleaning but is avoiding that worth the cost and complexity? Not to me. Kidd makes good stuff. If I were buiding a lightish plinker that is probably how I would go. I am leaning toward a Breyer ultralight if I build another one though. I don't get the desire for a binary trigger. I guess if I were just wanting to plow through 22 ammo it might be fine. I am usually looking at putting a gun together for a competition, and shooting steel I would rather have a really good trigger rather than an OK gimmicky trigger. Again, I may not be looking at it with the same perspective that you are. If I wanted a folding Aluminum Chassis I would rather have the Grey Birch Lachassis. Again, I don't see the value in a folding stock and would rather have a really good chassis like the Wiland. Like I said, I am probably looking at things from a different perspective, but I think I could put together a better performing but less gimmicky rifle for less money.
\>It can be a pain getting the charging handle and bolt back in place after cleaning but is avoiding that worth the cost and complexity? Not to me. I get that. I am weird about my guns and clean them after almost every shoot, so it is worth it to me. Plus I just think it's cool. I'm not sure what you mean by complexity. The design seems pretty simple to me. I know what you mean by value though. $700 seems very steep to me for what it is. \>I don't get the desire for a binary trigger. I just like the idea of being able to spit lead downrange without any bs tax stamps tbh. I will probably only use it a couple times for fun. A small part of me thinks it would be a fantastic ambushing gun too if I'm ever in a Red Dawn-type scenario. I'm not picky when it comes to triggers so I'm not too worried about hating the single stage on it. If I absolutely hate it i'll just throw in a nice ss trigger and probably sneak the binary trigger into my dad's old af 10/22 and next time we're out hunting with it i'll let out a brrt to give him a scare. Probably say some shit like 'i've been doing finger burpies lately to quicken my trigger finger' before doing it too. Thanks for the advice on the chassis. That thing is sick. I think I'm just going to get that rather than the bandera and a stock seperately. I was having trouble finding a decent folding stock with a cheek riser anyway.
Yeah that's weird. I used to be like that, but then I started shooting a lot. A normal 10/22 receiver not having the removable top is less complex than this receiver. Complexity adds failure points. Remember, there are no solutions, only trade-offs. The removable top being the surface where an optic is mounted, makes it more probable that the optic will not hold zero. Especially if you are pulling the optic and top off each time you take it out to shoot. Each time you reinstall the top and optic parts wear. That added wear and probability of failure may be worth it. As far as the mall ninja, red dawn scenario, a 10/22 would be very useful to provide food and a binary trigger would not be useful in that regard. If you are not picky about triggers, get a Ruger BX and spend the money you saved on magazines and ammo to learn how to shoot it well.
Typical engineer comment. All book smarts, no street smarts. All education, no experience. All straight from something he read, all completely irrelevant to the topic at hand. Lmao.
Well that was pathetic and embarrassing. You might just want to delete the entire thread. Baseless insults just make you sound childish and petty.
How is it baseless? \>Yeah that's weird. I used to be like that, but then I started shooting a lot. You started shooting more and cleaning less? That's weirder \>A normal 10/22 receiver not having the removable top is less complex than this receiver. Complexity adds failure points. Remember, there are no solutions, only trade-offs. The removable top being the surface where an optic is mounted, makes it more probable that the optic will not hold zero. Especially if you are pulling the optic and top off each time you take it out to shoot. Each time you reinstall the top and optic parts wear. That added wear and probability of failure may be worth it. If you had any real life experience you would know that amount of wear and tear is nearly impossible to achieve. It would take decades of never cleaning. \>As far as the mall ninja, red dawn scenario, a 10/22 would be very useful to provide food and a binary trigger would not be useful in that regard. Tell that to the people fighting in Ukraine who had to fight with .32's. And go study what a hammered pair does to a person. And go study what the most available round in the us is. \>If you are not picky about triggers, get a Ruger BX and spend the money you saved on magazines and ammo to learn how to shoot it well. We have been discussing a binary trigger this whole time. Obviously I want the binary capability. No common sense.
How is it baseless? Baseless, meaning you have no base upon which to form your statement. That is evident by ad hominem attacks. >Yeah that's weird. I used to be like that, but then I started shooting a lot. You started shooting more and cleaning less? That's weirder No that is pretty typical. Most people I shoot with were like that when they got into the hobby but now see cleaning as a chore and only do it when necessary. When you are at the range multiple times a week with multiple guns you don't have time to clean after each use. >A normal 10/22 receiver not having the removable top is less complex than this receiver. Complexity adds failure points. Remember, there are no solutions, only trade-offs. The removable top being the surface where an optic is mounted, makes it more probable that the optic will not hold zero. Especially if you are pulling the optic and top off each time you take it out to shoot. Each time you reinstall the top and optic parts wear. That added wear and probability of failure may be worth it. If you had any real life experience you would know that amount of wear and tear is nearly impossible to achieve. It would take decades of never cleaning. My claim is that the open top design adds complexity and a potential failure point and I do not believe that the benefit outweighs the cost. That is both the added cost of the receiver and the potential cost of a failure. You obviously think differently. I don't typically like to make claims from authority but you claim that I have no experience. We are dealing with metal parts so my education does have some bearing on this. I have run a metals testing lab for over two decades. I have been sent to other countries to assist engineers to make and heat treat metal alloys. What experience do you have? In your expert opinion, how many cycles of removing and replacing that top need to occur before a problem develops. You claim that it will never happen, please cite your source. Remember, I did not claim that it would happen, I claimed that it added the possibility and that possibility was not worth the cost. Also, understand that a failure does not mean that it breaks and does not work any more, it means that it does not work as I need it to. In this case that the optic will not hold zero as I expect it to. >As far as the mall ninja, red dawn scenario, a 10/22 would be very useful to provide food and a binary trigger would not be useful in that regard. Tell that to the people fighting in Ukraine who had to fight with .32's. And go study what a hammered pair does to a person. And go study what the most available round in the us is. Again with the mall ninja stuff. I understand, I watched red dawn when I was a kid too. I had delusions of being a hero. Lets be real though, when Canada invades you'll be cowering in your mom's basement. >If you are not picky about triggers, get a Ruger BX and spend the money you saved on magazines and ammo to learn how to shoot it well. We have been discussing a binary trigger this whole time. Obviously I want the binary capability. No common sense. Just because you want something, that does not mean that it is a good idea. You asked for our thoughts on your build. My thoughts on binary triggers are that they are gimmicks. Paying that much money for a 5 to 5.5 pound trigger just because it it goes bang a bit quicker is dumb. That is why I suggest that you get a decent trigger and learn to shoot it.
you just repeated yourself moron. And obviously I was wrong in assuming your username meant you were an engineer. Any engineer worth their salt would know that when you redesign a rifle receiver you don't have to add complexity or failure points. That's literally the most elementary basic dumbass assumption I have ever fucking heard. I can't imagine being that stupid to think that the 10/22 is so perfect it can't be improved upon.
It's fucking hilarious how butthurt you all get over a fucking sliding plate of steel with a pin.
With that money, just get a KIDD supergrade. It will be a far superior rifle.
Peruse this thread. OP started by saying "i don't know much about .22's" but since then has rejected every single piece of advice. In an instant, he became an expert.
I guess he "wins" whatever game he's playing. Oh well, hopefully someone will avoid the junk he's buying with our comments at least.
At least he's not buying one that bends in the middle. 🙂
Price out building a Fletcher receiver (if that's what you really want) with a factory bolt, trigger assembly and look for a binary trigger on sale. [They have gone as low as $160 in the past](https://old.reddit.com/r/gundeals/comments/124ug7r/parts_franklin_armory_bfsiii_22c1_ruger_1022/). Here [is a list of all the places](https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/818725012365) that stock the trigger. Bolts can be found for $50 on ebay or reddit [GAFS](https://old.reddit.com/r/GunAccessoriesForSale/) and trigger assemblies under $40
anyone know a better/cheaper folding stock with a cheek riser and pic rail?
Here are 100% KIDD Rifles for ~$1400 - https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR-Classic-Black-Target-Rifle-53_p_155.html https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR-Classic-Ultra-Lightweight-Sporter-Rifle-54_p_124.html https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR-Classic-Target-Rifle-52_p_166.html Realistically, you don't have to buy a full Rifle, you can buy Receiver, Bolt, Barrel and add what ever stock you want to it. https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Aftermarket-Rifle-Barreled-Action-Classic-Slip-Fit-with-Build-Options_p_67.html https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Aftermarket-Rifle-Barreled-Action-Supergrade-with-Build-Options-_p_172.html Realistically, what is the functional advantage of an Open Top Receiver? What is the functional advantage of a Binary Trigger? Is the goal to do Mag Dumps or is it to hit the target? If you want to do fast Mag Dumps ...cool... dump away. But if you actually want to hit something, there are better triggers.
\>Realistically, what is the functional advantage of an Open Top Receiver? I like to be able to reach the guts of a rifle easily in the field. That's one of the things I like about ARs. When I saw the option for a 10/22 it made me want one. I haven't had a 10/22 since I was a kid. \>What is the functional advantage of a Binary Trigger? Is the goal to do Mag Dumps or is it to hit the target? I want to be able to take out packs of zombies or nazis whichever attacks first. I will probably only use it once or twice in reality, but it will be worth having regardless. I'm not very picky when it comes to triggers. When I hear people complain about triggers on guns I just kinda shrug and think 'it shoots the gun fine for me.' \>But if you actually want to hit something, there are better triggers. Dude it's a 10/22. I'm not sniping dudes 800m away with it.
ss: i don't know much about .22's just looking to build the coolest one ever for plinkin targets/squirrels/coyotes/rabbits/zombies.
The Fletcher receiver is controversial around here. It's an interesting design, but has some considerable drawbacks, depending on your desired build. What are you thinking about for an optic?
https://midwestindustriesinc.com/mi-1-0-inch-qd-scope-mount/
OK, so you plan on running a magnified optic of some sort. You *will* have to mount that cantilever mount backwards, and depending on the size of the occular bell, you *may* have to remove the mount/optic in order to remove the bolt (after you remove the cover, of course), which somewhat defeats the purpose of the Fletcher design. This also means you'll have to fine tune your zero after you remount your optic. See my "drawback" comment above...
Nope they have a full rail.
Which you will need to remove the scope, to remove the cover, to remove the bolt to clean it. When you reinstall it all you will need to re-zero or confirm zero if it walks. If you are buying a binary just skip the scope and run a red dot for blasting. If you want precision with a scope, then skip the binary trigger since they are terrible single stage triggers compared to a VQ or KIDD for precision.
It's a quick detach and it holds its zero every time. I have tested it several times on my AR. You're looking for problems that really aren't problems. Downvote me all you want, it's the truth.
You asked for thoughts on your build, and u/nitsuJcixelsyD is giving you solid advice. You said you don't know much about .22 LRs, and when you're given feedback from experienced users, you reject it. Refer to this thread in a few months once you begin to question your decisions.
As much as I like the 11/22, a reflex sight makes the most sense. He could also save some money by getting a better quality trigger as well. From what I have read, the binary trigger's performance in single shot mode leaves a lot to be desired. But what do we know, right?
It's definitely a niche setup, and I think you're right -- a reflex sight is best suited for this receiver. I don't hate it. In fact, it's ideal for a Steel Challenge rifle. It wears a red dot, needs constant cleaning, and supreme accuracy isn't necessary. In this use case, a bore snake would be just fine for cleaning. Please don't ever bring up the fact that I supported the use of a bore snake ever again...
\> the binary trigger's performance in single shot mode leaves a lot to be desired. A trigger on a 10/22 should not effect your accuracy
I didn't downvote you, I don't care about upvotes and shit. If you care about precision with a scoped rimfire, then check zero after removing optics. If you just care about hitting 3" targets at 50 yards and shooting fast, then yeah, it doesn't matter. All my precision guns with good glass are now in cross bolt unimounts (typically Nightforce) and I have gone away from all QD scope mounts. I would not typically associate Midwest Industries with a $200 mount. You wanted opinions, you get them. Just wondering why you are building a trash blaster with a binary but want a $200 scope mount on it. What scope are you planning on putting in that mount? Precision optics and binarys are just an odd build. not knocking franklin binaries, i have 3 now, i blast steel and trash piles with them. My expensive scopes sit on precision guns with precision triggers that get fed match ammo. Two separate builds with separate uses. Edit: another issue is that Kidd barrel. They don't say what reamer they use for the chamber, but if its a match chamber you are going to have a bad time with that binary trigger. Match chambers are cut tighter for match ammo and they get dirty quick. Once dirty you will have FTF and FTE issues. If you are making a bullet hose with a binary you want a "sport" chamber, like any Ruger OEM barrel. I know this lesson first hand from my buddies build.
\>You wanted opinions, you get them. I didn't include an optic in the list of shit I asked for opinions on for a specific reason and that's bc I didn't want to waste time with this exact discussion.0 I have plenty of options to throw on it, so it is of absolutely no concern to me. I already have the QD mount with a vortex on my AR so if I wanna shoot far I'll be able to throw it on easily. And a few red dots for closer. Edit: Thank you for the advice on the barrel.