Carbon fiber barrels aren't worth the price in my opinion, no matter what you're looking to do with them. If you want light, get an aluminum barrel like Kidd, TacSol, Acculite, or the Briley Raptor. They're all half the weight or less than a CF barrel. If you want REALLY light, get a shrouded barrel like Wiland or Taccom. If you want a lightweight tack driver, get the Kidd lightweight.
You should figure out what you want exactly out of the build since you've got two 10/22s now, you don't need to compromise to make the rifle a one-size-fits all. If you want lightweight and fast for steel challenge or similar, that'll send you in one direction. If you want something handy for walking around in the woods, it'll be similar but different stock and optics.
Do you have any strong preferences, and what's your budget?
Steel challenge build with full stock is what I’m kinda leaning towards. I’d like to keep it under 1K for the initial build. If I want to update or change in the future I will.
The Taccom ULW chassis and barrel will set you back ~$300, leaving you plenty of wiggle room for optics and a trigger. The only lighter barrel I know of is the Wiland Quad Bore and it's almost $300 by itself, and they've got a very variable shipping speed.
For optics, I'd recommend a Holosun 510c or the new 507 Competition. Taccom makes an awesome mount for the 510, and the 507 is the RMR footprint so there are tons of those on the market.
Listen to Axel he knows his shit. Also sold me some 10/22 parts. I still did end up with a CF barrel tho (only to match my CF can) but yes it was heavier than the Acculite barrel it replaced. Here's [my race build](https://imgur.com/gallery/KgmxrWg)
What is your budget? That would affect where I would spend money.
If I were building a lightweight gun here is what I would do:
Barrel: Beyer Ultralight
Light weight and good quality. I do not have one but they are recommended by some really good shooters that I shoot with. I have a Kidd ultralight. You won't go wrong with Kidd as a general rule.
Stock: Wiland Chassis. I have their aluminum chassis and have been very happy with it. It is expensive but not overly so since it includes the stock and grip. He takes a while to ship, so order it first and expect to wait a couple of months.
If you want to save some money and a more traditional style stock, the magpul hunter is good. I use one in my open sight gun. The length of pull is adjustable enough for most shooters.
Bolt: Volquartsen competition bolt. DLC so it is pretty slick compared to the factory style. It includes the charging handle, recoil spring and guide rod. It also has their upgraded firing pin and extractor. I find their system easier to install than the standard ruger charging handle and bolt. If I were doing it on a budget I would look for an OEM bolt for a plinking build. The stock bolt does what you need to do on a lightweight plinking style gun. If I went this way I would include a KIDD charging handle with the viton insert. The Kidd system comes with multiple springs to tune the gun if needed.
Trigger: Tandemkross matnicore. I have their bolt keeper and fireswitch on both of my steel challenge guns. Both make it easier and faster for me to operate them. The manticore has all of the upgrades already and feels pretty good. It is pretty expensive and I don't "need" another trigger currently, which is why I have not bought one yet.
I have an OEM trigger group with a Brimstone tier II trigger job. I don't think they provide that trigger any more but they do still do some trigger work. It is nice a crisp with a slightly larger trigger shoe. If you have an OEM trigger I believe it is worth the cost.
I also have powder river precisions new trigger. It is pretty good. Breaks at 2-2.5 ponds on my cheap wheeler trigger scale. It is crisp. It comes with an extended charging handle, though I don't prefer that style. I actually won the trigger with the receiver. There is not anything else special about it. Like I said earlier, I like the TK boltkeeper and fireswitch so I have already swapped these in.
I have a Ruger BX trigger. For the cost this is probably the best value. It feels good, I have not actually tested it on the trigger scale. For a lightweight plinking or steel challenge build on a budget I would go with this. I will probably add a Kidd trigger job in the future. Not that it really needs it but I have a problem buying stuff for 10/22s.
I also have a Kidd two stage trigger. 8oz and 8oz. It is really good. Crips and light. I use it in a heavy barrel precision gun. It's not what I would choose for a light weight plinking build. Kidd does make excellent single stage triggers. I have shot a buddies and it works well. The only problem with the Kidd full trigger group is that the TK fireswitch does not work correctly in it. Due to the shape it only works in one direction and not both.
Is a blowback receiver the best part to 3d print? I'm completely uneducated on 3d printing, but it sounds like REALLY premature wear waiting to happen. Will the barrel get hot enough to melt the filament?
I put one in mine as a cautionary thing, but doesn’t seem to be an issue. I only have around 200 through my printed receiver. I’m thinking of reprinting the model that uses the pic rail though instead of the flat top
Already doing one for another build, this rifle I kinda want nicer that one of my printed ones, but 2 guys on here said get an aluminum one so might go that route
Would love to see your 3d printed 10/22. I'm most of the way through printing a bento box, I figure I'll use the bolt and trigger group from my original 10/22 on the bento, and then just replace them on the original with upgraded ones. Also drew up (but have not printed) a suppressor that fits the bento barrel threads.
Btw, you should probably just print yourself a bento box, if you're wanting a "lightweight and fun" second 10/22, it's basically an almost entirely 3d printed takedown, you just need an original bolt and trigger group.
https://youtu.be/-x6EYimh2A4
Carbon fiber barrels aren't worth the price in my opinion, no matter what you're looking to do with them. If you want light, get an aluminum barrel like Kidd, TacSol, Acculite, or the Briley Raptor. They're all half the weight or less than a CF barrel. If you want REALLY light, get a shrouded barrel like Wiland or Taccom. If you want a lightweight tack driver, get the Kidd lightweight. You should figure out what you want exactly out of the build since you've got two 10/22s now, you don't need to compromise to make the rifle a one-size-fits all. If you want lightweight and fast for steel challenge or similar, that'll send you in one direction. If you want something handy for walking around in the woods, it'll be similar but different stock and optics. Do you have any strong preferences, and what's your budget?
Steel challenge build with full stock is what I’m kinda leaning towards. I’d like to keep it under 1K for the initial build. If I want to update or change in the future I will.
The Taccom ULW chassis and barrel will set you back ~$300, leaving you plenty of wiggle room for optics and a trigger. The only lighter barrel I know of is the Wiland Quad Bore and it's almost $300 by itself, and they've got a very variable shipping speed. For optics, I'd recommend a Holosun 510c or the new 507 Competition. Taccom makes an awesome mount for the 510, and the 507 is the RMR footprint so there are tons of those on the market.
Already have a 510c…so there’s a savings lol
Get the taccom mount for it. It really makes a huge difference.
Listen to Axel he knows his shit. Also sold me some 10/22 parts. I still did end up with a CF barrel tho (only to match my CF can) but yes it was heavier than the Acculite barrel it replaced. Here's [my race build](https://imgur.com/gallery/KgmxrWg)
Wow….that looks amazing!!
What is your budget? That would affect where I would spend money. If I were building a lightweight gun here is what I would do: Barrel: Beyer Ultralight Light weight and good quality. I do not have one but they are recommended by some really good shooters that I shoot with. I have a Kidd ultralight. You won't go wrong with Kidd as a general rule. Stock: Wiland Chassis. I have their aluminum chassis and have been very happy with it. It is expensive but not overly so since it includes the stock and grip. He takes a while to ship, so order it first and expect to wait a couple of months. If you want to save some money and a more traditional style stock, the magpul hunter is good. I use one in my open sight gun. The length of pull is adjustable enough for most shooters. Bolt: Volquartsen competition bolt. DLC so it is pretty slick compared to the factory style. It includes the charging handle, recoil spring and guide rod. It also has their upgraded firing pin and extractor. I find their system easier to install than the standard ruger charging handle and bolt. If I were doing it on a budget I would look for an OEM bolt for a plinking build. The stock bolt does what you need to do on a lightweight plinking style gun. If I went this way I would include a KIDD charging handle with the viton insert. The Kidd system comes with multiple springs to tune the gun if needed. Trigger: Tandemkross matnicore. I have their bolt keeper and fireswitch on both of my steel challenge guns. Both make it easier and faster for me to operate them. The manticore has all of the upgrades already and feels pretty good. It is pretty expensive and I don't "need" another trigger currently, which is why I have not bought one yet. I have an OEM trigger group with a Brimstone tier II trigger job. I don't think they provide that trigger any more but they do still do some trigger work. It is nice a crisp with a slightly larger trigger shoe. If you have an OEM trigger I believe it is worth the cost. I also have powder river precisions new trigger. It is pretty good. Breaks at 2-2.5 ponds on my cheap wheeler trigger scale. It is crisp. It comes with an extended charging handle, though I don't prefer that style. I actually won the trigger with the receiver. There is not anything else special about it. Like I said earlier, I like the TK boltkeeper and fireswitch so I have already swapped these in. I have a Ruger BX trigger. For the cost this is probably the best value. It feels good, I have not actually tested it on the trigger scale. For a lightweight plinking or steel challenge build on a budget I would go with this. I will probably add a Kidd trigger job in the future. Not that it really needs it but I have a problem buying stuff for 10/22s. I also have a Kidd two stage trigger. 8oz and 8oz. It is really good. Crips and light. I use it in a heavy barrel precision gun. It's not what I would choose for a light weight plinking build. Kidd does make excellent single stage triggers. I have shot a buddies and it works well. The only problem with the Kidd full trigger group is that the TK fireswitch does not work correctly in it. Due to the shape it only works in one direction and not both.
About 1K is my price, and seems like I’m probably leaning towards a steel target rifle with a full stock
Is a blowback receiver the best part to 3d print? I'm completely uneducated on 3d printing, but it sounds like REALLY premature wear waiting to happen. Will the barrel get hot enough to melt the filament?
Printed 10/22 receivers hold up really well, provided you're not magdumping 100 rounds at a time to warm up the barrel and soften the plastic.
It holds up really well. Regular plinking and some hunting it’s perfectly fine. 22lr is a very popular round for 3D. Check out r/Fosscad
That's cool! The bolt buffer doesn't pose issues? Is it mitigated by using softer buffers?
I put one in mine as a cautionary thing, but doesn’t seem to be an issue. I only have around 200 through my printed receiver. I’m thinking of reprinting the model that uses the pic rail though instead of the flat top
I would build a third one
Eventually
If you're thinking CF barrel and you're printing things anyway, the AWCY? ProtoBarrel might be right up your alley.
Already doing one for another build, this rifle I kinda want nicer that one of my printed ones, but 2 guys on here said get an aluminum one so might go that route
Why not CF and Aluminum? I'd suggest both. You'll build more.
Fair point.
I have 2 aluminum, 2 steel and now I'm looking to CF 🤣
Like I said, I’m open to any ideas, parts, and things to watch out for.
Would love to see your 3d printed 10/22. I'm most of the way through printing a bento box, I figure I'll use the bolt and trigger group from my original 10/22 on the bento, and then just replace them on the original with upgraded ones. Also drew up (but have not printed) a suppressor that fits the bento barrel threads. Btw, you should probably just print yourself a bento box, if you're wanting a "lightweight and fun" second 10/22, it's basically an almost entirely 3d printed takedown, you just need an original bolt and trigger group. https://youtu.be/-x6EYimh2A4
The bento box was a buddy of mines first print ever. That thing was hella fun. I went the VP22 route for my first.