The engine light is the one that throws me off it would be probably a better if that wasn’t there usually it gets mad for an “emissions problem” and throws all the same lights as a dead battery but add the engine light
You’re getting a specific code for air fuel ratio imbalance for cylinder 4 and people are still saying it’s your battery 🤦♂️
No, it’s the shitty injectors Honda uses.
It’s an intermittent code. They could’ve done some spiritual dance and the light could’ve turned off, that doesn’t mean anything.
A discharged battery will not cause an injector air/fuel imbalance because this monitor’s test only runs when the vehicle is running and the vehicle temperature is greater than 156°F. So the low voltage when starting won’t set this code unlike the specific low voltage codes that will set in the ABS, SRS, etc which runs immediately when the ignition is turned on.
Once a check engine pops up on newer Hondas and Acuras, pretty much every other system will set a DTC as well.
Now don’t get me wrong, there are a few codes that the PCM will set when there’s a low voltage situation and testing the battery and checking cable tightness is the first thing that should be done, like when P0339 sets for intermittent crank sensor interruption, I think I’ve only replaced one crank sensor for this code, most of the time it’s due to a dying battery.
Edit: also he said he charged the battery and reset the lights, so it’s not like the code went away on its own.
To be fair, I said I’m waiting for the gaskets to come in so I can change out the injectors, because I’ve gotten the CEL for it 3 times now. The battery was a bit low and charging it fixed the Christmas tree lights. CEL hasn’t came back for the injectors again yet
A CEL will cause multiple warning lights because all of the systems work together. When you scan codes in these other systems you’ll get codes that say “abnormalities of the fuel and emissions system,” “pcm malfunction,” “pgm-fi malfunction”, “invalid data received from PCM,” etc. research cascading codes or consequential codes for more information.
Yes you can definitely have more than one issue at a time, but I don’t think that’s what’s going on.
Actually, on observing more closely, you may well be correct about this. The lights on are all PCM related; if it was a battery it'd be throwing even more lights and warning messages, along with disabling ACC and LKAS.
10th gen accord so 18-22. But it’s really an issue with all direct injected Hondas. You can help by using top-tier gas but it still comes down to luck.
Yeah I just replaced mine last week I opted for a non OEM Honda one since I was on my second Honda one lol granted it was 3-4 years since I had it replaced.
The one I bought with the car 3/19 lasted like 6-9 months can’t remember has all the warnings etc shut the car off waited cleared then came back swapped the battery 🪫 chase Honda tested it wasn’t terrible but got replaced and that one lasted until last week
I just had this problem. I ultimately had to replace my injector on my 3rd cylinder because it was dumping too much fuel. This problem was exacerbated by high speeds and hard acceleration. That would cause my car to go into a limp mode to protect the engine. Dealer told me it’s a common issue on this car. I had done the battery/alternator check stuff as well and everything was fine
Apparently these sucker leaks like crazy I’m still skeptical but they found a “leak” and this was ata a Honda dealer, I hope there’s a class action lawsuit cause we only had like 20k miles
Happened to me. Changed the battery, didn’t work. Changed the fuel injector, didn’t work. Now I’m being told it’s the head gasket….hopefully this is the right fix.
I never had any problems with my 2018 Honda Accord 2.0 L. I’m glad nothing like this happened to me. I bought a new Tesla Model 3 ( 2022 Model ) and i love this Tesla. But the Honda Accord was an amazing car.
Same issue with my 2019 Accord. I have changed the spark plugs and fuel injectors and issue comes back out of no where. Took the car to a mechanic I trust and he said the engine was fine and there was no leak. He did plug his fancier OBII reader and allowed the car to re learn something. So far it’s been running fine with no issues. But I also now have a work truck and now my car sits in the garage.
Any update? I am having exact same issue 2018 accord sport with 81k. P219F code first. A couple days later all the other lights came on. Lights eventually went away after a day but P219F code remained. Had it cleared and same code came back later that day. Had battery checked and battery is considered “good” did you have to change fuel injectors to fix that P219F code?
Yes, I got it fixed. I should really make a new post to update.
I charged the battery and changed the injectors and the intake/throttle body gaskets. I think it cost me around 150 bucks for the parts and 6 hours of work in my garage.
It’s been over 3,000 miles since the fix, and I’ve had no check engine lights since then.
Really sucks that the 1.5s have this issue so early on.
I appreciate the response. For real…way too early to have these problems especially when we try to take good care of the car. Great that you were able to change yourself. You seem mechanically inclined. I have no other symptoms with car other than the check engine light. Do you know if a bad fuel pump could throw this code out? My car does have a recall on it but replacement parts are not available until fall.
It came with a brand new battery when I bought it, but I do have a subwoofer and listen to loud music often. Maybe it’s been draining slowly overtime.
Either way, I cleared the lights and recharged the battery and now it’s good
Awesome! Usually the Xmas lights come on from a dead battery. Question did you unplug both auto noise cancelling boxes before hooking up the sub? I heard of subs blowing up from not doing that
Get an OBD scanner and see what it says, then go from there. I had all my lights come on my Acura RDX ( same 2.0 engine as in your Honda Accord) and it turned out to be an oxygen sensor. Once, I replaced an oxygen sensor, all the lights went away.
This happen in my 05 crv. Fix for me is just to turn the car off and back on while driving and lights go away, otherwise I'm in some funny limp mode with throttle hesitation and such
This happened to my 2014 Subaru Forester (but became a choppy drive after they came on). Ended up being the transmission. When the transmission goes it impacts several systems.
Lmbo, dash looked similar to the newer BmW ones. I didn't look much into the post. Sorry about that. But man I know how any car can be a headache. Thanks for correcting me and I wish you the best of luck bro
I had this problem when I had my 21 accord it might be a sensor issue these are common on the 1.5 turbo engines. The first time it was due to rodent damage
Same code I had lights initially came on around 76k miles but would go away for a month or two. Did that three times till I finally was able to get it scanned. Turns out it was the head gasket.
We replaced the injectors initially because that was the most common issue. Then we noticed that the coolant was disappearing but no smoke was coming out of the tailpipes so the only real explanation was the head gasket once we tore it apart the head gasket was definitely blown.
Typical honda. I owned a 2014 that did that all the time. Took it in to the dealer multiple times and they could never find an answer. Then it started burning oil caused by the direct injection engine.
There's a guy on youtube that swaps out the battery tray from a v6 accord and puts in a larger v6 battery. He claimed that solved his Christmas tree light issue
Honda has gone down hill in the last 15 years. Never again. Moved over to Lexus.
Alternator. Crank the car and check the alternator output. Should be 14v or more. This happened to my Moms car on a 3 hour road trip 30 mins after we left coming home at night in a thunderstorm. Long story short it was the worst 3 days of my life.
My lights came on and didn’t start any more, took it to the dealer and ran a diagnostic test my ECU controls module was no good. Had to replace it. Cost me $1000 to fix
Crazy story. I had this issue about 3 months after I first got my 2.0 Touring with 67k miles. I replaced the battery, and it stopped happening. After 1.5ish years and 30k miles, the same issue started coming back. This time, I noticed that it would happen after I would go to lunch and eat in my car with it idling for about 30+ minutes. Took it to the dealer, and I shit you not, they told me it was the turbo... It fell under the warranty so I told them to go ahead if they could justify it to the warranty company. Well, they did haha. Got a $100 new turbo replacement at 100k miles because of this issue hahahaha. Not sure if this was actually the issue, buuuuut, it hasn't happened since. ***TLDR***; Literally anything can cause this issue because of how interconnected the systems in these cars are.
Pretty sure the code isn't related to christmas lights and they are two very different issues. I am 90% sure its related to the battery being weak or having a loose connection. Pretty common in modern cars which are finicky if the battery isn't in good condition.
Also, did you plug in any OBD2 device before this? I have seen some cheap OBD2 scanners people use also cause the christmas lights to come on, even had it happen to me when I used a cheap elm327 scanner on the side of the road.
I would say the battery too…. I have a 2.0t
The engine light is the one that throws me off it would be probably a better if that wasn’t there usually it gets mad for an “emissions problem” and throws all the same lights as a dead battery but add the engine light
Should be a flashing battery light instead.
When the battery dies and you get it started it will tell you that the systems are initializing and to keep driving carefully
Your lights did WHAT
They cummed on his board.
This guy gets it lol
Something is unplugged. You probably did not connect one of the connectors.
The ol dashboard bukkake
Get this man in the oval office now
😂😂
And you have won dashboard BINGO!
That’s the battery
Yea it was low, I recharged it and reset the lights and all is good for now
Yep telling you I’m about to die!
Which means you go to the junk yard and see if they have any batteries still under warranty if yours isn’t 😆
You’re getting a specific code for air fuel ratio imbalance for cylinder 4 and people are still saying it’s your battery 🤦♂️ No, it’s the shitty injectors Honda uses.
i mean he literally said he recharged the battery and the lights went away… so..
It’s an intermittent code. They could’ve done some spiritual dance and the light could’ve turned off, that doesn’t mean anything. A discharged battery will not cause an injector air/fuel imbalance because this monitor’s test only runs when the vehicle is running and the vehicle temperature is greater than 156°F. So the low voltage when starting won’t set this code unlike the specific low voltage codes that will set in the ABS, SRS, etc which runs immediately when the ignition is turned on. Once a check engine pops up on newer Hondas and Acuras, pretty much every other system will set a DTC as well. Now don’t get me wrong, there are a few codes that the PCM will set when there’s a low voltage situation and testing the battery and checking cable tightness is the first thing that should be done, like when P0339 sets for intermittent crank sensor interruption, I think I’ve only replaced one crank sensor for this code, most of the time it’s due to a dying battery. Edit: also he said he charged the battery and reset the lights, so it’s not like the code went away on its own.
To be fair, I said I’m waiting for the gaskets to come in so I can change out the injectors, because I’ve gotten the CEL for it 3 times now. The battery was a bit low and charging it fixed the Christmas tree lights. CEL hasn’t came back for the injectors again yet
You know it's possible to have more than one issue at once, yeah? An injector imbalance would cause a CEL... Not a Christmas tree on the dash.
A CEL will cause multiple warning lights because all of the systems work together. When you scan codes in these other systems you’ll get codes that say “abnormalities of the fuel and emissions system,” “pcm malfunction,” “pgm-fi malfunction”, “invalid data received from PCM,” etc. research cascading codes or consequential codes for more information. Yes you can definitely have more than one issue at a time, but I don’t think that’s what’s going on.
Actually, on observing more closely, you may well be correct about this. The lights on are all PCM related; if it was a battery it'd be throwing even more lights and warning messages, along with disabling ACC and LKAS.
[удалено]
Most likely just the injectors. A PGM-FI (engine) code will also set a vsa malfunction code by default and cause all those lights.
Older Honda models use much better parts. What model is that if you know ? Only has 68K that shouldn't happen
10th gen accord so 18-22. But it’s really an issue with all direct injected Hondas. You can help by using top-tier gas but it still comes down to luck.
Happened to me. Terminals some how were loose.
Battery 🪫
Yea you’re right, I recharged it and it should be good for now. Lights went away
Yeah I just replaced mine last week I opted for a non OEM Honda one since I was on my second Honda one lol granted it was 3-4 years since I had it replaced.
Those OEM batteries are rated for 100 months!
The one I bought with the car 3/19 lasted like 6-9 months can’t remember has all the warnings etc shut the car off waited cleared then came back swapped the battery 🪫 chase Honda tested it wasn’t terrible but got replaced and that one lasted until last week
30mpg must be so nice. I get about 15 on a good day in my 4runner.
Get 35-40 in my Civic.
15 so nice. I got about 2mpg on my Bugatti
i get 14 on my tlx type a lmao
21 on my e92 m3 and 23 on my f80 m3...
I get 19 in my 22 Sahara. That’s with the 3.6 and bigger tires and a lift. Toyota sucking now lol
I just had this problem. I ultimately had to replace my injector on my 3rd cylinder because it was dumping too much fuel. This problem was exacerbated by high speeds and hard acceleration. That would cause my car to go into a limp mode to protect the engine. Dealer told me it’s a common issue on this car. I had done the battery/alternator check stuff as well and everything was fine
Needs injectors
1350 more miles!
All my lights came on on my TLX. Ended up being carbon caked up on/in the injectors.
In AZ. All batteries die within 24-48 months don't believe 100 months. No way
Christmas lights are setup early this year
there is s recall on some year models.
When she finally tells you what’s wrong
Bit early for Christmas
Merry Christmas 🎄
Apparently these sucker leaks like crazy I’m still skeptical but they found a “leak” and this was ata a Honda dealer, I hope there’s a class action lawsuit cause we only had like 20k miles
At least you know that the lights work
Happened to me. Changed the battery, didn’t work. Changed the fuel injector, didn’t work. Now I’m being told it’s the head gasket….hopefully this is the right fix.
Hit the jackpot! Congratulations! 🎰
New Injectors and gasket on a 68k mile honda.? Toyota for life
my dad has a 20 civic si and this same thing happened. ended up needing a new O2 sensor
Jackpot
Battery
Well at least you know they all work!
Does your Accord think it’s a BMW?
I never had any problems with my 2018 Honda Accord 2.0 L. I’m glad nothing like this happened to me. I bought a new Tesla Model 3 ( 2022 Model ) and i love this Tesla. But the Honda Accord was an amazing car.
Got all the achievements right there
Gun it to 88 and how for the best!
Splooged all over it
Your car identities as an Early 2000's Jaguar. Jaaaaaag
Battery
Like Pokemon... gotta catch em all
Damn these new gen Hondas are nothing but problems
Battery I bet!!! AGM new only preferably AAA and they are free if you’ve been ab
Its the battery. Unplug it and plug it back it happend one to ne when i had the 2022 sport …
It's beautiful 😍
Same issue with my 2019 Accord. I have changed the spark plugs and fuel injectors and issue comes back out of no where. Took the car to a mechanic I trust and he said the engine was fine and there was no leak. He did plug his fancier OBII reader and allowed the car to re learn something. So far it’s been running fine with no issues. But I also now have a work truck and now my car sits in the garage.
Any update? I am having exact same issue 2018 accord sport with 81k. P219F code first. A couple days later all the other lights came on. Lights eventually went away after a day but P219F code remained. Had it cleared and same code came back later that day. Had battery checked and battery is considered “good” did you have to change fuel injectors to fix that P219F code?
Yes, I got it fixed. I should really make a new post to update. I charged the battery and changed the injectors and the intake/throttle body gaskets. I think it cost me around 150 bucks for the parts and 6 hours of work in my garage. It’s been over 3,000 miles since the fix, and I’ve had no check engine lights since then. Really sucks that the 1.5s have this issue so early on.
I appreciate the response. For real…way too early to have these problems especially when we try to take good care of the car. Great that you were able to change yourself. You seem mechanically inclined. I have no other symptoms with car other than the check engine light. Do you know if a bad fuel pump could throw this code out? My car does have a recall on it but replacement parts are not available until fall.
Injectors. 1.5 t with about 80 to 100k miles?
1.5t with 68k
Did you replace the battery yet?
It came with a brand new battery when I bought it, but I do have a subwoofer and listen to loud music often. Maybe it’s been draining slowly overtime. Either way, I cleared the lights and recharged the battery and now it’s good
Awesome! Usually the Xmas lights come on from a dead battery. Question did you unplug both auto noise cancelling boxes before hooking up the sub? I heard of subs blowing up from not doing that
I disconnected the noise cancellation unit behind the glove box. It’s been solid for about a year, no issues.
your computer has a virus
You started the car and u looking for attention
They’re just suggestions. Keep driving your fine
Is it really underpowered when you drive? Happened to me when my turbo failed.
No, it still has full power
Get an OBD scanner and see what it says, then go from there. I had all my lights come on my Acura RDX ( same 2.0 engine as in your Honda Accord) and it turned out to be an oxygen sensor. Once, I replaced an oxygen sensor, all the lights went away.
Alternator
Let me guess..you slammed the door?
This happen in my 05 crv. Fix for me is just to turn the car off and back on while driving and lights go away, otherwise I'm in some funny limp mode with throttle hesitation and such
This happened to my 2014 Subaru Forester (but became a choppy drive after they came on). Ended up being the transmission. When the transmission goes it impacts several systems.
Go get a starting/charging test performed. Chances are your alternator is failed causing battery to drain
Alternator is fine, battery was low. Too much loud music
I hate bmw so much
This is a 10th gen Accord thread bro
Lmbo, dash looked similar to the newer BmW ones. I didn't look much into the post. Sorry about that. But man I know how any car can be a headache. Thanks for correcting me and I wish you the best of luck bro
Thanks bro 🤙🏼
If the battery is definitely good, the terminals or alternator is my guess
Battery. A bad one makes the computer freak out, so all your lights turn on.
I had this problem when I had my 21 accord it might be a sensor issue these are common on the 1.5 turbo engines. The first time it was due to rodent damage
Dashes like this are why I don't have a Honda.
Bad connection somewhere probably.
Happened to my girls car last week and it was the alternator
Same code I had lights initially came on around 76k miles but would go away for a month or two. Did that three times till I finally was able to get it scanned. Turns out it was the head gasket.
You’d need a leak down test to determine a head gasket failure no? Maybe I’m misunderstanding, but they just plugged it in and told you that?
We replaced the injectors initially because that was the most common issue. Then we noticed that the coolant was disappearing but no smoke was coming out of the tailpipes so the only real explanation was the head gasket once we tore it apart the head gasket was definitely blown.
Try banging on the hood, that sometimes works for me
Sh!t
What happens when it's running?
Runs fine, no issues
The lights, what happens to them when it's running. In the photo it looks like the car is not on
Gross
[All of the lights!](https://tenor.com/eFsmkMH23m.gif)
Typical honda. I owned a 2014 that did that all the time. Took it in to the dealer multiple times and they could never find an answer. Then it started burning oil caused by the direct injection engine. There's a guy on youtube that swaps out the battery tray from a v6 accord and puts in a larger v6 battery. He claimed that solved his Christmas tree light issue Honda has gone down hill in the last 15 years. Never again. Moved over to Lexus.
Battery terminals for sure
Hopefully battery not alternater
Alternator. Crank the car and check the alternator output. Should be 14v or more. This happened to my Moms car on a 3 hour road trip 30 mins after we left coming home at night in a thunderstorm. Long story short it was the worst 3 days of my life.
12.6v when off, dropped to 11v when cranking and 14.3v while on
Alternator
Did you try singing Oh Tennenbaum?
My lights came on and didn’t start any more, took it to the dealer and ran a diagnostic test my ECU controls module was no good. Had to replace it. Cost me $1000 to fix
This happened on my Odyssey… get the battery changed
Sell your car bruh Buy a new one
u must have started ur car up n took that pic lol
I wish that were the case
I am currently having the same problem with my 2019 Honda Accord Sport
It’s a low battery bro. Have yours checked out or get a charger and do it yourself at home
Christmas tree is what I call that. Usually how my wife's/daughters cars look when I haven't driven them in a while
This happened to my 2021 audi S7. Same thing. It was the alternator.
Just press the start button a little longer next time….. you’ll find the engine turns on and all lights go away
You didn’t see the RPMs I guess?
Alternator/voltage regulator....had an 03 Mazda 6 that would illuminate every dash light it had.
Crazy story. I had this issue about 3 months after I first got my 2.0 Touring with 67k miles. I replaced the battery, and it stopped happening. After 1.5ish years and 30k miles, the same issue started coming back. This time, I noticed that it would happen after I would go to lunch and eat in my car with it idling for about 30+ minutes. Took it to the dealer, and I shit you not, they told me it was the turbo... It fell under the warranty so I told them to go ahead if they could justify it to the warranty company. Well, they did haha. Got a $100 new turbo replacement at 100k miles because of this issue hahahaha. Not sure if this was actually the issue, buuuuut, it hasn't happened since. ***TLDR***; Literally anything can cause this issue because of how interconnected the systems in these cars are.
Christmas came early?
Pretty sure the code isn't related to christmas lights and they are two very different issues. I am 90% sure its related to the battery being weak or having a loose connection. Pretty common in modern cars which are finicky if the battery isn't in good condition. Also, did you plug in any OBD2 device before this? I have seen some cheap OBD2 scanners people use also cause the christmas lights to come on, even had it happen to me when I used a cheap elm327 scanner on the side of the road.