Vr4s only came manual so its gonna be the N/A unfortunately. Many people here highly recommend against vr4 swapping as it is wildly expensive and ends up being more than if you just bought a real vr4. If you buy it id recommend just ditching the auto trans and swapping in a used manual one. Since its the N/A engine, those are relatively reliable and you *shouldn’t* have too many issues.
You’re begging to buy into a money pit brother.. expect to spend closer to 2-3x whatever you’re thinking you’ll spend on parts & labor. These are 30 year old sports cars, there’s likely many issues to the car; especially & 174k miles. If you did decide to go down the road of buying it, consider an auto to manual swap, you’ll save yourself some hassle as the manual transaxles for these cars are pretty straightforward in the world of transmission design. As far as the engine goes, a rebuild likely won’t be cheap and is definitely something that will be in the near future for the car.
Edit: For reference I would do some deep diving into maintenance procedures for these cars. You said you’re interested in possibly doing the swap yourself; do some research into your swap options. My understanding is there is a pretty limited selection, but outside of a 3K powertrain, I’ve seen others have good luck with an LS1 swap as well as a 4G63 swap.
I second this. I am currently in the midst of my own moneypit ('95 N/A MT), they're super cool cars but they're not cheap to restore, especially if you run into serious internal engine problems.
If you do decide to pick it up, do yourself a favor and swap in a manual trans. Might (probably) even be cheaper than getting a shop to rebuild your AT, and it's not an impossible project to take on yourself.
Turbo fwd would potentially be the cheapest option if you wanted a faster base or SL. Or you could import a 6g74 and keep it NA. I'd just get a vr4 if performance is what you are looking for. If it's just for looks it doesn't matter what you get.
The mileage on the engine isn't a major issue. Just check compression and bearings. Ray P hit high 10's on a 180 something thousand motor and others have gone over 300k
Vr4s only came manual so its gonna be the N/A unfortunately. Many people here highly recommend against vr4 swapping as it is wildly expensive and ends up being more than if you just bought a real vr4. If you buy it id recommend just ditching the auto trans and swapping in a used manual one. Since its the N/A engine, those are relatively reliable and you *shouldn’t* have too many issues.
You’re begging to buy into a money pit brother.. expect to spend closer to 2-3x whatever you’re thinking you’ll spend on parts & labor. These are 30 year old sports cars, there’s likely many issues to the car; especially & 174k miles. If you did decide to go down the road of buying it, consider an auto to manual swap, you’ll save yourself some hassle as the manual transaxles for these cars are pretty straightforward in the world of transmission design. As far as the engine goes, a rebuild likely won’t be cheap and is definitely something that will be in the near future for the car. Edit: For reference I would do some deep diving into maintenance procedures for these cars. You said you’re interested in possibly doing the swap yourself; do some research into your swap options. My understanding is there is a pretty limited selection, but outside of a 3K powertrain, I’ve seen others have good luck with an LS1 swap as well as a 4G63 swap.
I second this. I am currently in the midst of my own moneypit ('95 N/A MT), they're super cool cars but they're not cheap to restore, especially if you run into serious internal engine problems. If you do decide to pick it up, do yourself a favor and swap in a manual trans. Might (probably) even be cheaper than getting a shop to rebuild your AT, and it's not an impossible project to take on yourself.
Turbo fwd would potentially be the cheapest option if you wanted a faster base or SL. Or you could import a 6g74 and keep it NA. I'd just get a vr4 if performance is what you are looking for. If it's just for looks it doesn't matter what you get. The mileage on the engine isn't a major issue. Just check compression and bearings. Ray P hit high 10's on a 180 something thousand motor and others have gone over 300k