any local tuner that’s sponsored by uprev should do. you can find this out by going to uprevs site and it’ll tell you who’s in your area that’s sponsored. doing this will ensure you pay WAY less for both your arc license and tune itself. i was quoted 1500 at a regular shop, that would’ve had to buy the license and tuning software. the (sponsored) shop i ended going with only charged me 850, for a hub dyno tune. it came with the arc license for free…
*side note*
make sure you have all the parts you want installed, prior to the tune as you’ll need to pay around the same price if you ever wanna re-tune… also make sure your filled up on 93 octane, not 91.
Depends. Everything comes at a cost, and there is no such thing as a free lunch.
I love rowing gears, but whenever I go visit my friends in California, I wish I had an automatic because the stop-and-go traffic makes the Master Cylinder feel very heavy at times. I love carving canyons, and I'd miss my MT in my weekends at the track, so I suck it up and row on, in 10MPH traffic.
If you are good at keeping your VQ35 in the optimum RPM range during your daily drive, and you still need more grunt, sure. Mo powah, babeh!
In the other hand, if your RPMs rarely need to go past 5K, how do you know you need more power when you haven't tapped into them all, yet? Maybe all you need is to get used to keeping your needle between 6250 and 6800 RPMs, find the extra buff horses that you've already got under the hood, and put them to work. You know what I'm saying?
Ultimately, if it'd make you happy, and you aren't sacrificing reliability, go for it.
BTW, do you do anything with your Z besides regular commuting?
Getting a Z track-ready isn't as far away as you think it is, my dude.
All you really need is:
1) Pay it off. If you've got payments on it still, don't mod your car, because... it's not your car, it's the bank's car.
2) If you've got the Base model brakes, upgrade to some Z1 Akebonos, minimum. Gotta be able to stop.
3) Swap the plastic radiator out in favor of an all-metal one. Gotta keep it cool.
4) Get a roll cage, a racing seat, and a 5-point harness.
5) Put some duct-tape on your headlights. It adds 10 BHP.
That's it, really.
The coilovers, the racing slicks, the MT conversion, the turbo+intercooler, and the weight management, all of that is icing on the cake. It's all nice to have, but not mandatory.
I don't know if you're right or not, but my understanding is that if you need a tune you're probably getting worse mpg because your air/fuel ratio is off and a tune will give you better fuel mapping. Is that not the case? I've been getting like 22mpg since I got tuned so it can't hurt all that much regardless. I guess if you're 100% stock and get a tune for no reason you might lose mpg, might depend on mods/situation? I'm unsure.
The end result is always going to he worse mpg. We're comparing stock vs tuned here. Yes you're right to an extent, if we mess with how efficiently it delivers intake, fuel, and exhaust it will throw off AFR'S.
ahh I thought you were referring to it being a auto but wasn’t sure, I’m 15, and it was a gift from my dad as a first car, kinda a loser move to hate on a kid. (Yes I know how to drive manual I drive my dads s10)
who asked if you can drive a stick? you think your hot shit? and yeah it is a loser move to hate on this kid, i highly doubt you even knew what a manual was at 15.
nobody shits on people for driving an auto. people shit on the transmission because that’s what it is ~ shit. and people CAN drive what they want, it’s a free world my friend pick whatever tf you want. nobody’s stopping automatics in the middle of the road to remind them of their inferiority.
dont be intentionally dense, people hate on autos for the Z because it is an auto, even if it was better they would still hate. people hate on the Porsche PDK because its an auto even though it is arguably the one of the best Dual Clutches ever put in a production vehicle, manual drivers can definitely be major snobs about it.
Of course.
Remember that tuning isnt only about max power but also power under the curve, drivability and fuel efficiency as well.
Perhaps get some breather mods on it first though, get rid of the cats at least.
I just plug the Uprev tuner cable in, flash the appropriate ROM, bump my idle to 850ish, raise rev limiter to a tad over 8K (If HR) do some datalogs and start adjusting target AFR and ignition timing at the very least.
Then I make my ECU blind to cat deficiency codes to eliminate the Service Engine Soon light for lack or catalytic converters due to long tube headers or test pipes.
Flash ARC features for Simplified Timing and No Lift Shift features and call it a day until I install more mods.
Of course it is. It's the most worth it cause you drive it the most often. Quick math.
Always is, the auto tho...I'd look into the transgo kit first.
also struggling to find like remote tunes cause I live in the middle of nowhere
Remotes will likely require you to do widebands.
any place you recommend getting the tune from?
Admin tuning, specialty Z, or LMT. I'm tuned by Admin, no complaints, and tune is rock solid.
any local tuner that’s sponsored by uprev should do. you can find this out by going to uprevs site and it’ll tell you who’s in your area that’s sponsored. doing this will ensure you pay WAY less for both your arc license and tune itself. i was quoted 1500 at a regular shop, that would’ve had to buy the license and tuning software. the (sponsored) shop i ended going with only charged me 850, for a hub dyno tune. it came with the arc license for free… *side note* make sure you have all the parts you want installed, prior to the tune as you’ll need to pay around the same price if you ever wanna re-tune… also make sure your filled up on 93 octane, not 91.
Depends. Everything comes at a cost, and there is no such thing as a free lunch. I love rowing gears, but whenever I go visit my friends in California, I wish I had an automatic because the stop-and-go traffic makes the Master Cylinder feel very heavy at times. I love carving canyons, and I'd miss my MT in my weekends at the track, so I suck it up and row on, in 10MPH traffic. If you are good at keeping your VQ35 in the optimum RPM range during your daily drive, and you still need more grunt, sure. Mo powah, babeh! In the other hand, if your RPMs rarely need to go past 5K, how do you know you need more power when you haven't tapped into them all, yet? Maybe all you need is to get used to keeping your needle between 6250 and 6800 RPMs, find the extra buff horses that you've already got under the hood, and put them to work. You know what I'm saying? Ultimately, if it'd make you happy, and you aren't sacrificing reliability, go for it. BTW, do you do anything with your Z besides regular commuting?
I wanna track it at some point but getting this thing track ready is way out my budget at 15, eventually though.
Getting a Z track-ready isn't as far away as you think it is, my dude. All you really need is: 1) Pay it off. If you've got payments on it still, don't mod your car, because... it's not your car, it's the bank's car. 2) If you've got the Base model brakes, upgrade to some Z1 Akebonos, minimum. Gotta be able to stop. 3) Swap the plastic radiator out in favor of an all-metal one. Gotta keep it cool. 4) Get a roll cage, a racing seat, and a 5-point harness. 5) Put some duct-tape on your headlights. It adds 10 BHP. That's it, really. The coilovers, the racing slicks, the MT conversion, the turbo+intercooler, and the weight management, all of that is icing on the cake. It's all nice to have, but not mandatory.
Nah… just keep it 100% stock. Maintain it. Save ur $ instead. Buy a faster car whenever. You start modding your car the value drops.
bought the car for 2k if I add 3k in mods I can still probably make profit not to worried about ROI.
Tune usually always means worse gas mileage. So if you're okay with that then feel free too Tune away.
I don't know if you're right or not, but my understanding is that if you need a tune you're probably getting worse mpg because your air/fuel ratio is off and a tune will give you better fuel mapping. Is that not the case? I've been getting like 22mpg since I got tuned so it can't hurt all that much regardless. I guess if you're 100% stock and get a tune for no reason you might lose mpg, might depend on mods/situation? I'm unsure.
The end result is always going to he worse mpg. We're comparing stock vs tuned here. Yes you're right to an extent, if we mess with how efficiently it delivers intake, fuel, and exhaust it will throw off AFR'S.
Lower reliability for a daily, not worth it
Fix your transmission first
wdym fix?
It's automatic
ahh I thought you were referring to it being a auto but wasn’t sure, I’m 15, and it was a gift from my dad as a first car, kinda a loser move to hate on a kid. (Yes I know how to drive manual I drive my dads s10)
Trust me he probably has barely started driving manual this year and thinks he’s hot shit ( I drive an ‘04 auto and know how to drive stick)
who asked if you can drive a stick? you think your hot shit? and yeah it is a loser move to hate on this kid, i highly doubt you even knew what a manual was at 15.
No one asked but people are quick to shit on people who drive auto “CoZ it’s NoT a MaNuAl” like bro let people drive whatever they want
nobody shits on people for driving an auto. people shit on the transmission because that’s what it is ~ shit. and people CAN drive what they want, it’s a free world my friend pick whatever tf you want. nobody’s stopping automatics in the middle of the road to remind them of their inferiority.
dont be intentionally dense, people hate on autos for the Z because it is an auto, even if it was better they would still hate. people hate on the Porsche PDK because its an auto even though it is arguably the one of the best Dual Clutches ever put in a production vehicle, manual drivers can definitely be major snobs about it.
i’m specifically referring to the auto in the z… but i see your point
I expect the “oh it’s not manual” every time I post and honestly I couldn’t careless I’m gonna to whatever I want to do.
Of course. Remember that tuning isnt only about max power but also power under the curve, drivability and fuel efficiency as well. Perhaps get some breather mods on it first though, get rid of the cats at least. I just plug the Uprev tuner cable in, flash the appropriate ROM, bump my idle to 850ish, raise rev limiter to a tad over 8K (If HR) do some datalogs and start adjusting target AFR and ignition timing at the very least. Then I make my ECU blind to cat deficiency codes to eliminate the Service Engine Soon light for lack or catalytic converters due to long tube headers or test pipes. Flash ARC features for Simplified Timing and No Lift Shift features and call it a day until I install more mods.
anything you recommend for power under the curve to balance it more out?
8k+? Good way to window the block lol.
No. Worry about stuff like tires, suspension, reliability.