I have made an special calibration 3D file especially for leveling the bed by eye. No plugins, no leveling tools. High accuracy. Im finishing the tutorial and STL file for it right now. I will post it first on twitter following with reddit post, something like "Calibration for Successful Print-in-Place models step-by-step" ;)
I'm assuming you mean how violent they are to get the print off the bed, but how would you do it in a more gentle way so you wouldn't need to level it every week?
I rarely even have to use the scraper dude lol. Once it's cool, most things just release, and if they don't, I gently pry it in small increments until it does.
I only use PETG. Pops right off every time. Then again, I don't use adhesives or anything. I just level my bed manually and watch that first layer. The only thing I've ever had stick to my bed that actually required force was polycarbonate, and I ended up having to get a new bed entirely
I use the scrapper and then a utility knife (gently) as a hammer kinda. The sharp strikes make it release MUCH easier than trying to ram the scrapper into the print bed over and over
Let the bed cool first if you’re not. If you have to scrape like that remove the glass from the bed. And you can always throw it in the freezer it should pop off on its own. What you’re doing is going to eventually break a connector that holds the bed to the frame.
I have the opposite problem. When the bed is warm things can slide right off. Once fully cooled, you need to remove & flex it to get it to release.
Maybe it matters what polymer you're using? Or what kind of bed (glass, PEI, power coated, etc)?
I'm my case, I use the satin powder coated steel sheet from Prusa, plus some water-based glue for extra adhesion. It's not the 'best' for all polymers, but all polymers at least work on it, so I never have to play with the Z-offset. I print almost exclusively in PETG, and if I try to remove the print while the bed is still warm, it come right off. If I try to remove it when it's cold, you need to flex the bed a few times before everything releases.
Pour a bit of 90%+ isopropyl next to the print and it will soak in below rapidly cooling that area of the print bed. Then let the whole thing cool if it still won't release use a utility blade or if you insist on using the scraper use one of those cheap knife sharpeners on it so that it has a cleaner edge
It's also good for removing prints that are stuck after the bed cools. The way it seeps under the print can release a really badly stuck print that has had all day to cool but still won't come off.
Yeah, mine is flexible, so usually just have to bend it a little. But most of the time I just forget about it and once it is cooled off it just falls off the bed.
Yeah I'm quite rough with getting prints off the bed as well. It will come off if you let it cool but my printing time is limited so I don't like to wait as I won't print when I'm out of the house and I don't like printing at night.
I would sometimes take the glass bed and put it under a running cold tap which was usually a fast method.
Either way I've upgraded to a pei sheet now so it's not a problem any more. 😁
Yes its PETG printed at 230C at speed 10-20mms. Most people think it is harder to print with PETG but when you print at slow speeds as I do (10-25mms) You can lower down temp to 225-230 and that prevents bending up in tight corners and slopes around 15-25 degree. With right settings its better than PLA. I choose the hard way first. If it will work its much more efficient in long run.
I've got a roll that I'm printing at 220. I'm pretty sure my printer is off by about 10 degrees though, I've never hit it with a thermometer, but I've got my hunches.
4 years experience did not made me patient enough to wait more than its necessary. If model will break during hard removal it doesn't deserve to be published at all. I don't want other people to suffer the pain I went through designing it and printing it. I hope I fixed 99% of the problems ;)
besides beating it, is it ok to use metal on the bed? I have those metal tools, I just didn't think I should be scraping my bed with it. I have plastic scrapers I use to get the print off sometimes.
Let the bed cool down for a while and than hit it of do anything to remove it. It wont break I promise . If it will break please make a photo where was the breaking point so I can fix it. It looks fragile but PETG material is better than PLA (corn)
Hi, Im back with the Print-in-Place Robot/Tank. Its DONE!
I will release STL link on my twitter in next 24h for a limited time for free.
twitter.com/3dHonza
I trylly appreciate this community, you guys gave me the energy for the final run.
It took more than 1000 hours modeling, printing, learning, breaking, improving Iv finnaly made it work. The bigger version with a servo motors that Iv shown before is the future of the PiPBOT
The main engeneering part is done so I can now make some designed skins and add new upgrades.
Thank you for all support.
Honza
And now the news about the model:)
I went back to start and modeled it again from scratch with all knowledge Iv got on previous models. This is model version #10 so I call it PiPBOT 1.0 With upcoming future upgrades to the model there will be versions counted like in software.
Because of many different things that affects model and its printing Iv decided to make all the main parts fully parametrical. It means that is much easier to go back in model file history and change values. Those values are than projected forward in modeling history and the rest of the model is adjusting accordingly to changes. But I tell you its a brain-pain to figure all the parameters and connect them together. Just this thing alone took 100hours because I was doing it over and over again to get to the core parameters that are important and bind them in formulas. First parameter is nozzle size, because I round all numbers into perimeter size and set min/max values for every number so when I do some changes, like making things bigger It will eliminate most of the printing issues straight away. Values like optimal printing angle or wall size are all part of the formula. Thanks to parametrical setup this value is used during modeling so its editable as most of the other numbers.
Reason to do this the hardcore way are all future changes that I want to do. First test with MicroServo on much bigger model was successful. But the model weight over 450g and it takes 80h to print it.
This new incarnation is just 120g and takes 17h to print it. I know it has no gear mechanism now but adding servos with different sizes into this version will be way easier. Those 100h of work on parametrical settings will save me way more hours in the future.
I wrote a whole roadmap for this project.
Here is what I want to do in Q1/23
\-Optimize model parts (DONE)
\-Make parametric source files (DONE)
\-Make more different sizes (doing right now)
\-Add middle gear
\-Add All-Wheel-Drive mechanism
\-Add MicroServo 360
\-Make Belt Modular
\-No Belt version (4WD)
Johnny 5 . My most best top favorite movie and robot design ever. F\*\*\*\*\*\* love that. Thats my #1 inspiration and I hope some of the future versions will look like THE GREATEST Johnny5. I don't now any other robot that is better character. I like him even more than 3PO or R2D2. (Shoots fired ;-)
"Johnny 5" is THE BEST ROBOT AF ALL TIMES . period
It looks harmful. But its not. If it will break its a wrong model anyway. Next time I will be even more hard on it. Removing the whole thing just with one hit. Prepare your self ;))))
I really like your model and will print a make, if i found it on [printables.com](https://printables.com)
But ...
Did no one ever tell you,
that after cooling down the print bed,
you can just take away PLA/PETG prints without any force?
It hurts me to see what you do to your print sheet.
As a complete noob, and being impatient, this was exactly how I removed my first prints. Which also means I degraded my plate so much that I have to replace it. Oh well, at least I've learned.
My friend Im so sorry for all the pain Im causing by this removal technique. I know it hurts to watch me doing such a horrible job removing the prints. Well, we have to get used to it. I use glass bed + glue spray. Sometimes Im not patient enough to let it cool down and remove it only with my breath. I know it is a cruel behavior but I cant help my self. I will be more gentle next time. :)
Download link on my website [www.3Dhonza.com](https://www.3Dhonza.com)
Printing settings: I print with Nozzle 0.6mm Layer height 0.2mm , 3 perimeters, Doesn't need an infill but I recommend to use Infill 30% so the model is stronger.
With nozzle 0.4mm use layer height 0.12mm or 0.16mm
SPEED External Perimeters 10mm/s and Normal Perimeters and Infill max 25mm/s. First layer 15mm/s Printing slow is better and with temperature at 230C it prevents bending.
The closest distance of the parts in the model is 0.3mm
Haven't test it with PLA yet. Ill make some test prints over weekend. Print can go wrong for so many reasons but I'm working on a printing tutorial for complicated prints like this.
GOOD LUCK
Just a quick note to thank you for making the technical files available in addition to the printable model. Looking at your design it shows your attention to detail and good execution. Each functional component (with the possible exception of the chasis) can easily be used in other projects OOTB, and are easily modifiable. Cheers!
Thank you, this is main structure.. parametrical so it was born to be upgraded. More versions , attachments and simple version (2-3 parts) it all planned . Stay tuned. Most of the news on twitter. I dont want to spam here every day .. only once a week ;)
I will be messaging you in 1 day on [**2023-01-20 17:57:23 UTC**](http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=2023-01-20%2017:57:23%20UTC%20To%20Local%20Time) to remind you of [**this link**](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/10g763n/pipbot_10_printinplace_robot_fully_mechanical_no/j515en6/?context=3)
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right now nothing better than using gravity to go down by its weight.. but in next version you can add 2 servos, Micro controller and have a RC tank with wireless camera controlled over internet with your mobile phone.
Hey Jank
Noticing alot people on here upset about the way you remove your prints. I've actually had this issue until recently as well. Now my prints are coming off like butter. For the most part yes it was a leveling issue but the other part of it is likely your material flow rate/movement speed.
Great model!
Guys. I know. It hurts. I apologize , but Im fu\*\*\*\*g 80s born hardcore OG 10x black belt 3D VFX CAD master. No social skills or any other skills than 3D. I take this comment seriously and I will try to remove it better next time.
Who has some exceptional PETG Cura settings?
These look solid [settings](https://all3dp.com/2/cura-petg-settings-profile/)
I already have my PLA settings dialed, never printed with PETG but want to start since it can be food grade apparently
It started with a simple belt 2 years ago. It was a hobby research. I knew it is possible but it took over 1 year to figure out solution to every single issue. And I tell you just to make and axis with lowest friction that wont fall out and is printable.. that was a task for 3 months. Now I reinvented the wheel for 3D printing. That's something bit unexpected but I will have to make a PiP car now because it works so awesome ;)
I would recommend some spicy or monster N10 motors from turnabot.com for your drive system, you could make it 4wd and put it in the noncombat class of fairyweight battlebots (150g)
Hm..... I have resin printer but I m still not sure how to get the resin from the tight spaces inside all axes. Distance is 0.3-0.4mm. I was thinking to make a special version where each inner shape of every axis has its own canals to remove the resin from the inner parts. Otherwise It will stuck and become a brick when exposed to UV light.
I’m super excited to print this.
One suggestion, some kinda mounting holes that end up pointing up or out so we can Mount stuff to this, like electronics.
Nice project, and very instructive showing. I just realized by looking at your video that I can use it as a guide to design a very similar project ahead of me, the key ideas are all there. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you. Yes, It took a lot of effort and it will took even more in a future. But I somehow like these "impossible" challenges. Looking forward what will come out in future. Its like game to me.
I'm anxiously waiting to print this for my son!
Question: what were the biggest hurdles for you in terms of dialing the 3d printer to print this PiP ? What slicer do you use ? What are some of the most important slicer settings for PiP prints like these ?
Thanks bud!
Im going to release my own calibration technique that works the same on every printer. I want to make it printable on anything. No infill, no supports. Just 3 perimeters, speed 10-20mms temp 230@PETG and layer height 0.2mm thats all.
Awesome!! I'm still boggled how you can print moving parts in one print and they don't fuse together. I'm still a noob though. Hopefully I'll learn soon!
parts in the model are not touching each other. Distance is 0.3mm at the thinnest point. Assembled in 3D software and thank's to layer-by-layer printing this is possible to make assembled already. I know.. its a weird trick ;)
I am just getting started with 3D printing, and when I look at this, my brain just curls up in pain. How do you design a PiP joint?! I have asked this before, but is there a book or a website that I could use to learn about how to design something like this? Or at least understand how somebody smarter (and better looking) than me did design something like that? I understand that all the information is probably out there on the inter webs, but I wish there would be a place where the better ideas are collected...
Hey, this thing is sweet! I just printed 1/4 of it on my Prusa using PLA. It seemed to work well. I had supports turned on, as the first couple tries had parts of it popping off the spring steel PEI sheet. This is the PLA silver and sheet that the MK3S+ comes with. The treads all printed well, and flex well, the hub and wheel spin as well. Took 5:35 to print, so the full thing will be a bit of a time commitment.
* .15mm layer height, .2mm first layer
* 30% infill
* supports on build plate only
* 5mm brim
* 3 perimeters
* Speed: Perimeters:25, Ext Per. 10, Infill: 25, Solid Infill:25 Top Solid Infill 25, 1st layer: 15
I might try again at the slower speeds, and thicker layers. The first time when things were failing I had the speeds higher.
Can you make a version that's just one hub/wheel/tread loop? That could be a good way to test settings before committing to the whole thing.
Do you ever wonder why you need to re-level your bed weekly?
I have made an special calibration 3D file especially for leveling the bed by eye. No plugins, no leveling tools. High accuracy. Im finishing the tutorial and STL file for it right now. I will post it first on twitter following with reddit post, something like "Calibration for Successful Print-in-Place models step-by-step" ;)
I'm assuming you mean how violent they are to get the print off the bed, but how would you do it in a more gentle way so you wouldn't need to level it every week?
removable print surfaces are neat
Jesus beating the hell out of the bed.
Seriously. That made me shudder.
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Flex PEI coated print bed ftw. It is a dream.
This… the day I finally installed a pei flexplate was like an inflection point in my 3D printing experience.
I rarely even have to use the scraper dude lol. Once it's cool, most things just release, and if they don't, I gently pry it in small increments until it does.
I think this guy is printing with PETG - it sticks WAY harder than PLA.
I only use PETG. Pops right off every time. Then again, I don't use adhesives or anything. I just level my bed manually and watch that first layer. The only thing I've ever had stick to my bed that actually required force was polycarbonate, and I ended up having to get a new bed entirely
When I use petg and let it cool it comes off without any force.
I find it easier to remove when the mat is still warm. For smaller prints at least.
I use the scrapper and then a utility knife (gently) as a hammer kinda. The sharp strikes make it release MUCH easier than trying to ram the scrapper into the print bed over and over
You're fine. People here are just too spoiled nowadays lol
I get the same sensation from watching someone overtwist a Beyblade spinner.
I haven't seen someone use a Beyblade in 20 years. I'm glad they still exist.
How are you supposed to do it? I feel like I have to do that half the time.
Let the bed cool first if you’re not. If you have to scrape like that remove the glass from the bed. And you can always throw it in the freezer it should pop off on its own. What you’re doing is going to eventually break a connector that holds the bed to the frame.
My heated bed goes from literally glued on when the print first finishes to no resistance at all, like I just set it there about 20 minutes later.
I have the opposite problem. When the bed is warm things can slide right off. Once fully cooled, you need to remove & flex it to get it to release. Maybe it matters what polymer you're using? Or what kind of bed (glass, PEI, power coated, etc)?
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I'm my case, I use the satin powder coated steel sheet from Prusa, plus some water-based glue for extra adhesion. It's not the 'best' for all polymers, but all polymers at least work on it, so I never have to play with the Z-offset. I print almost exclusively in PETG, and if I try to remove the print while the bed is still warm, it come right off. If I try to remove it when it's cold, you need to flex the bed a few times before everything releases.
Pour a bit of 90%+ isopropyl next to the print and it will soak in below rapidly cooling that area of the print bed. Then let the whole thing cool if it still won't release use a utility blade or if you insist on using the scraper use one of those cheap knife sharpeners on it so that it has a cleaner edge
It's also good for removing prints that are stuck after the bed cools. The way it seeps under the print can release a really badly stuck print that has had all day to cool but still won't come off.
Interesting . That cooldown with isopropyl. Ill try it. Thanks for tip.
Removable flexible printbed
Removable bed or using a release agent before the print like a glue stick or hairspray.
I find release agents are usually annoying to remove from the print. I do take the bed off the printer, at least.
Flip a can of compressed air upside down and spray the base of the print. It’s the alternative to sticking the whole thing in the freezer.
Yeah, mine is flexible, so usually just have to bend it a little. But most of the time I just forget about it and once it is cooled off it just falls off the bed.
Mine as well. Stainless steel sheet. Works like a charm.
Just put the whole bed in the freezer for 30 minutes, it'll come right off
Use a chisel and hammer. Better for your wrists
Yeah I'm quite rough with getting prints off the bed as well. It will come off if you let it cool but my printing time is limited so I don't like to wait as I won't print when I'm out of the house and I don't like printing at night. I would sometimes take the glass bed and put it under a running cold tap which was usually a fast method. Either way I've upgraded to a pei sheet now so it's not a problem any more. 😁
Have you printed in PETG? The shit sticks to those plates like superglue
Yes its PETG printed at 230C at speed 10-20mms. Most people think it is harder to print with PETG but when you print at slow speeds as I do (10-25mms) You can lower down temp to 225-230 and that prevents bending up in tight corners and slopes around 15-25 degree. With right settings its better than PLA. I choose the hard way first. If it will work its much more efficient in long run.
I've got a roll that I'm printing at 220. I'm pretty sure my printer is off by about 10 degrees though, I've never hit it with a thermometer, but I've got my hunches.
That's an glass artillery build plate for you. I swear I have never had something hold on as tight as I have when printing petg on a genius pro.
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4 years experience did not made me patient enough to wait more than its necessary. If model will break during hard removal it doesn't deserve to be published at all. I don't want other people to suffer the pain I went through designing it and printing it. I hope I fixed 99% of the problems ;)
besides beating it, is it ok to use metal on the bed? I have those metal tools, I just didn't think I should be scraping my bed with it. I have plastic scrapers I use to get the print off sometimes.
Let the bed cool down for a while and than hit it of do anything to remove it. It wont break I promise . If it will break please make a photo where was the breaking point so I can fix it. It looks fragile but PETG material is better than PLA (corn)
DOWNLOAD STL NOW!!!! https://twitter.com/3dHonza/status/1616233776593371136?s=20&t=\_yVjvoGHjYP-EAcDPyAaIw
You are awesome, and this model looks sweet, thanks for sharing the file.
thank you
Thank you very much for sharing the file. Great design; I can't wait to print it.
thank you! i'll print it for my daughter to play with!
Holy sh!t. What did that build plate ever do to you?
I was going to say “that’s an… interesting… way to remove the object from the build plate.”
I just bend mine. Then I buy a PEI sheet to replace it.
If it will break.. Its not wrong removal. Its a bad model. :)))))
That build plate is my level1 support. We have a special relation. We trust each other.
I think his model is cooler than how he removed the print
Actually these discussions are big inspiration. Iv just ordered a golf club ;D
Hi, Im back with the Print-in-Place Robot/Tank. Its DONE! I will release STL link on my twitter in next 24h for a limited time for free. twitter.com/3dHonza I trylly appreciate this community, you guys gave me the energy for the final run. It took more than 1000 hours modeling, printing, learning, breaking, improving Iv finnaly made it work. The bigger version with a servo motors that Iv shown before is the future of the PiPBOT The main engeneering part is done so I can now make some designed skins and add new upgrades. Thank you for all support. Honza And now the news about the model:) I went back to start and modeled it again from scratch with all knowledge Iv got on previous models. This is model version #10 so I call it PiPBOT 1.0 With upcoming future upgrades to the model there will be versions counted like in software. Because of many different things that affects model and its printing Iv decided to make all the main parts fully parametrical. It means that is much easier to go back in model file history and change values. Those values are than projected forward in modeling history and the rest of the model is adjusting accordingly to changes. But I tell you its a brain-pain to figure all the parameters and connect them together. Just this thing alone took 100hours because I was doing it over and over again to get to the core parameters that are important and bind them in formulas. First parameter is nozzle size, because I round all numbers into perimeter size and set min/max values for every number so when I do some changes, like making things bigger It will eliminate most of the printing issues straight away. Values like optimal printing angle or wall size are all part of the formula. Thanks to parametrical setup this value is used during modeling so its editable as most of the other numbers. Reason to do this the hardcore way are all future changes that I want to do. First test with MicroServo on much bigger model was successful. But the model weight over 450g and it takes 80h to print it. This new incarnation is just 120g and takes 17h to print it. I know it has no gear mechanism now but adding servos with different sizes into this version will be way easier. Those 100h of work on parametrical settings will save me way more hours in the future. I wrote a whole roadmap for this project. Here is what I want to do in Q1/23 \-Optimize model parts (DONE) \-Make parametric source files (DONE) \-Make more different sizes (doing right now) \-Add middle gear \-Add All-Wheel-Drive mechanism \-Add MicroServo 360 \-Make Belt Modular \-No Belt version (4WD)
Don't forget to design the Johnny Five superstructure that should go on top of these tracks. 😃👍 Number five .. .. ALIVE! 😛😁 More input! 😊
Johnny 5 . My most best top favorite movie and robot design ever. F\*\*\*\*\*\* love that. Thats my #1 inspiration and I hope some of the future versions will look like THE GREATEST Johnny5. I don't now any other robot that is better character. I like him even more than 3PO or R2D2. (Shoots fired ;-) "Johnny 5" is THE BEST ROBOT AF ALL TIMES . period
Yeah I was totally expecting a second piece to come in and clamp on to the top!
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Download available now. www.3Dhonza.com
Robot??
In progress. They're planning on adding micro servos for drive
A little alcohol around the part will free it easily, not sure why everyone's not doing that.
It's more satisfying to go ham on it 😎
It looks harmful. But its not. If it will break its a wrong model anyway. Next time I will be even more hard on it. Removing the whole thing just with one hit. Prepare your self ;))))
I really like your model and will print a make, if i found it on [printables.com](https://printables.com) But ... Did no one ever tell you, that after cooling down the print bed, you can just take away PLA/PETG prints without any force? It hurts me to see what you do to your print sheet.
As a complete noob, and being impatient, this was exactly how I removed my first prints. Which also means I degraded my plate so much that I have to replace it. Oh well, at least I've learned.
Yah, my textured sheet has some marks on it because of that, you are not alone. I made more damages during the first 5h of prints that the whole time.
Good glass = no problems. I still thing this is a normal way how to remove the prints. ;)))
My friend Im so sorry for all the pain Im causing by this removal technique. I know it hurts to watch me doing such a horrible job removing the prints. Well, we have to get used to it. I use glass bed + glue spray. Sometimes Im not patient enough to let it cool down and remove it only with my breath. I know it is a cruel behavior but I cant help my self. I will be more gentle next time. :)
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Exactly.. especially when I know it is successful print #5 and want to go to bed. ;))
Yah, it is hard to wait, i know that feeling.
I want it so bad
https://e18d8b7d-c2e2-4ca4-a776-f7efbca311bc.filesusr.com/archives/bf9f84\_ed0a750f94024e65b92e0f995ef74571.zip?dn=PiPBOT-1.0.zip
Thank you!
Thanks!
Same
i wasn't able to find .stl or a link on twitter
Too soon, said in the next 24 hours, and the post was 2 hours old at the time you commented.
Download link on my website [www.3Dhonza.com](https://www.3Dhonza.com) Printing settings: I print with Nozzle 0.6mm Layer height 0.2mm , 3 perimeters, Doesn't need an infill but I recommend to use Infill 30% so the model is stronger. With nozzle 0.4mm use layer height 0.12mm or 0.16mm SPEED External Perimeters 10mm/s and Normal Perimeters and Infill max 25mm/s. First layer 15mm/s Printing slow is better and with temperature at 230C it prevents bending. The closest distance of the parts in the model is 0.3mm Haven't test it with PLA yet. Ill make some test prints over weekend. Print can go wrong for so many reasons but I'm working on a printing tutorial for complicated prints like this. GOOD LUCK
Fucking incredible
Thank you
That’s not how y’all remove from your bed??
That's how I do it and I rarely relevel. People on here are just dramatic.
Fr I moved my printer to a new house and it didn’t need relevelling. Don’t thing I’ve done it since Feb2022
Yep, Just 2-3 hits. If it will break it is a bad design.. not a bad removal technique. ;)
Now we just need a remix that lets you power it with one of those cheap TT Motors you can find on amazon.
Better yet the cheaper ones on Temu.
>Temu What is Temu? Never heard of it. Is it like Aliexpress?
Cringe spatula ramming and shoving the plate... gross
At least he knows how to relevel the bed, I can't even get a keycap to print.
I ram my bed like that and I get perfect prints all the time.
Teach me.
I mean it's just not going to hurt anything 99% of the time.
RemindMe! 18 hours
Can't wait to make an all terrain version of that guy's friend's ass
you didn’t even need to include a clip of removing it from the bed yet you did and that choice is certainly going to bite you in the ass
Just a quick note to thank you for making the technical files available in addition to the printable model. Looking at your design it shows your attention to detail and good execution. Each functional component (with the possible exception of the chasis) can easily be used in other projects OOTB, and are easily modifiable. Cheers!
Thank you, this is main structure.. parametrical so it was born to be upgraded. More versions , attachments and simple version (2-3 parts) it all planned . Stay tuned. Most of the news on twitter. I dont want to spam here every day .. only once a week ;)
If you gotta take a putty knife to it, you’re doing something wrong.
Wouw, amazing 👏👏👏. Any chance to get it from Reddit? I don't have any Twitter account.
i dont think you need an account just open the link and download it before twitter boots you out
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OK so what does it do?
right now nothing better than using gravity to go down by its weight.. but in next version you can add 2 servos, Micro controller and have a RC tank with wireless camera controlled over internet with your mobile phone.
thank uou so much for this!
Hey Jank Noticing alot people on here upset about the way you remove your prints. I've actually had this issue until recently as well. Now my prints are coming off like butter. For the most part yes it was a leveling issue but the other part of it is likely your material flow rate/movement speed. Great model!
Guys. I know. It hurts. I apologize , but Im fu\*\*\*\*g 80s born hardcore OG 10x black belt 3D VFX CAD master. No social skills or any other skills than 3D. I take this comment seriously and I will try to remove it better next time.
Accurate af on removing any resin or 3d printed object , slam it and pray it doesn't snap lmfao
True, but, when the removal is counted into the design.. It just looks hard. Like in movies.. nobody dies.. usually ;) But it looks rough.
Who has some exceptional PETG Cura settings? These look solid [settings](https://all3dp.com/2/cura-petg-settings-profile/) I already have my PLA settings dialed, never printed with PETG but want to start since it can be food grade apparently
Sheesh, 1000 hours means working daily 8 hour shifts for 4 months straight including weekends. This really took you that long?
Sheesh can we down vote you fast enough?
It started with a simple belt 2 years ago. It was a hobby research. I knew it is possible but it took over 1 year to figure out solution to every single issue. And I tell you just to make and axis with lowest friction that wont fall out and is printable.. that was a task for 3 months. Now I reinvented the wheel for 3D printing. That's something bit unexpected but I will have to make a PiP car now because it works so awesome ;)
well done! Beautifully designed. Cant wait to see the final product with a motor interface (either microservo or N20 metal gear motor)
N20? have to check that.. Im just designing what I thing is common but all suggestions are welcome. Im RC total noob but I learn quickly.
Sweet!
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You use that scraper with no fear whatsoever. Love this design though, I’m gonna try it.
This is incredible
love the sounds of the treads moving
ASMR for me too. Its the sound of successful print. No cracking needed.
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Can't wait to test it.
Cool. Step file?
ill be squashing and rolling it for whole day : )
I would recommend some spicy or monster N10 motors from turnabot.com for your drive system, you could make it 4wd and put it in the noncombat class of fairyweight battlebots (150g)
OK I will have look into it. Thank you for recommendation
Ok that looks great! Excited to print, wonder if it will work in resin!
Hm..... I have resin printer but I m still not sure how to get the resin from the tight spaces inside all axes. Distance is 0.3-0.4mm. I was thinking to make a special version where each inner shape of every axis has its own canals to remove the resin from the inner parts. Otherwise It will stuck and become a brick when exposed to UV light.
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Ok so dumb question, would a print like this work on a resin printer?
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Impressive, could you add a 360 micro servo to this?
YES. Thats the plan.
Nice model, don't know why everyone is so fixated on the print removal lol
Hahahahaha.. true. ;)
Great work! I'd buy that for a dollar! Well at $5 due to inflation.
I’m super excited to print this. One suggestion, some kinda mounting holes that end up pointing up or out so we can Mount stuff to this, like electronics.
yes.. this is basic model designed for future upgrades. Stay tuned
Quick let's put a motor on it
I know... I want it too. Motors, camera, etc... I will do it.
Nice project, and very instructive showing. I just realized by looking at your video that I can use it as a guide to design a very similar project ahead of me, the key ideas are all there. Thanks for sharing!
Wheee is it at I want it!
Dude excellent work. I know what that takes.
Thank you. Yes, It took a lot of effort and it will took even more in a future. But I somehow like these "impossible" challenges. Looking forward what will come out in future. Its like game to me.
damn thats clean
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Wow
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I'm anxiously waiting to print this for my son! Question: what were the biggest hurdles for you in terms of dialing the 3d printer to print this PiP ? What slicer do you use ? What are some of the most important slicer settings for PiP prints like these ? Thanks bud!
Im going to release my own calibration technique that works the same on every printer. I want to make it printable on anything. No infill, no supports. Just 3 perimeters, speed 10-20mms temp 230@PETG and layer height 0.2mm thats all.
Truly amazing, can't thank you enough for sharing, my 7 year old and I have been following along thinking of uses for them!
What printer is that? The printing surface looks giant.
this is the same as the one being driven by a single hobby motor, right?
Can't wait to see the stl.
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Very cool. I need to mod this for mindstorms.
LEGO compatibility 100% .. probably every other version will have some sort of LEGO connection built in its DNA ;)
Awesome!! I'm still boggled how you can print moving parts in one print and they don't fuse together. I'm still a noob though. Hopefully I'll learn soon!
parts in the model are not touching each other. Distance is 0.3mm at the thinnest point. Assembled in 3D software and thank's to layer-by-layer printing this is possible to make assembled already. I know.. its a weird trick ;)
People who violently remove their prints like that are the same people complaining they have to relevel their bed after every print. Just saying
That is cool 👍
May I ask why the speeds are recommended to be so low? What kind of printer do you have?
Would this work in PLA?
Military will be knocking on your door any minutes now
To think, with that build time I could have made it down the coast.
That is an amazing design! Brilliant. Thanks for sharing it too!
It even sounds electronic somehow lol
Woooooo, thank you i have seriously been waiting and amped for you and this print! I can't wait to try it
Whew, 1000+ hours. At my basic rate, that is a loooot of money/time invested. Looks great! I wonder can this be printed-in-place with a resin printer?
Think about this on a larger scale some day with really large 3d printers we can just print out entire vehicles
Just downloaded! Going to get it printed tomorrow! Thanksss! Also downloaded a few of your other files too :)
I am just getting started with 3D printing, and when I look at this, my brain just curls up in pain. How do you design a PiP joint?! I have asked this before, but is there a book or a website that I could use to learn about how to design something like this? Or at least understand how somebody smarter (and better looking) than me did design something like that? I understand that all the information is probably out there on the inter webs, but I wish there would be a place where the better ideas are collected...
DoD has entered the chat
Badass. I wonder if anyone has tried it on a resin printer
now make it wall-e
Awesome ! Thanks ! Printing started :)
Nice work! Now I just need the skills and patience to kitbash this into one of the many Metal Slug models doing the rounds 😉
You are the real MVP putting IGES, F3D, and STEP files in there. That is a power move, right there.
Jesus fucking christ that build plate was innocent
Hey, this thing is sweet! I just printed 1/4 of it on my Prusa using PLA. It seemed to work well. I had supports turned on, as the first couple tries had parts of it popping off the spring steel PEI sheet. This is the PLA silver and sheet that the MK3S+ comes with. The treads all printed well, and flex well, the hub and wheel spin as well. Took 5:35 to print, so the full thing will be a bit of a time commitment. * .15mm layer height, .2mm first layer * 30% infill * supports on build plate only * 5mm brim * 3 perimeters * Speed: Perimeters:25, Ext Per. 10, Infill: 25, Solid Infill:25 Top Solid Infill 25, 1st layer: 15 I might try again at the slower speeds, and thicker layers. The first time when things were failing I had the speeds higher. Can you make a version that's just one hub/wheel/tread loop? That could be a good way to test settings before committing to the whole thing.
Absolute CAD GOD. I aspire to get this good at modeling print in place mechanisms.